Transcriber's note:

The first edition of Holinshed's Chronicles was published in 1578.
The second edition, with substantial changes, was published in
1587. Another edition, using the text of the second, but with some
censored pages restored and the type re-set, was published in 1807.
A facsimile of that edition was published by AMS Press, Inc. in
1965, and reprinted in 1976. This electronic edition is based on
those facsimiles.




HOLINSHED'S

CHRONICLES

_ENGLAND, SCOTLAND,

AND

IRELAND._

IN SIX VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

ENGLAND.

_LONDON_:

PRINTED FOR J. JOHNSON; F.C. AND J. RIVINGTON; T. PAYNE; WILKIE
AND ROBINSON; LONGMAN, HURST, REES, AND ORME; CADELL AND DAVIES;
AND J. MAWMAN.

1807.


AMS PRESS INC.

NEW YORK, N.Y. 10003

1965

MANUFACTURED in the U.S.A.


[_Original Title._]


THE

FIRST AND SECOND VOLUMES

OF

CHRONICLES,

COMPRISING

1 +The description and historie of England,+

2 +The description and historie of Ireland,+

3 +The description and historie of Scotland;+

FIRST COLLECTED AND PUBLISHED

BY

RAPHAELL HOLINSHED,

WILLIAM HARRISON, AND OTHERS:

_Now newlie augmented and continued (with manifold matters of
singular note and worthie memorie)_

TO THE YEARE 1586,

By JOHN HOOKER aliàs VOWELL Gent.

AND OTHERS.

WITH CONUENIENT TABLES AT THE END OF THESE VOLUMES.


HISTORIAE PLACEANT NOSTRATES AC PEREGRINAE.


ADVERTISEMENT.

The chronicles of HOLINSHED having become exceedingly scarce, and,
from their Rarity and Value, having always brought a high Price
whenever they have appeared for Sale, the Publishers have thought
they should perform an acceptable Service to the Public by reprinting
them in a uniform, handsome, and modern Form.

It cannot now be necessary to state the Importance and interesting
Nature of this Work. The high Price for which it has always sold,
is a sufficient Testimony of the Esteem in which it has been held.
Holinshed's Description of Britain is allowed to contain the most
curious and authentic Account of the Manners and Customs of our
Island in the Reign of Henry VIII. and Elizabeth, in which it was
written. His History of the Transactions of the British Isles,
during these Periods, possesses all the Force and Value of contemporary
Evidence, collected by a most skilful Observer; and the peculiar
Style and Orthography in which the Work is written, furnish a very
interesting Document to illustrate the History of the English
Language.

The original Edition of the Chronicles of Holinshed, it is well
known, was published by their Author in a mutilated State. A Number
of Pages, which had obviously been printed with the rest of the
Work, were found to be omitted, except in a few Copies obtained by
some favoured Persons. In the present Edition, these Castrations
are faithfully restored; and in order that the Purchaser may depend
upon finding an exact as well as a perfect Copy, it has been a Law
with the Publishers, not to alter a single Letter, but to print
the Work with the utmost Fidelity from the best preceding Edition,
with the Author's own Orthography, and with his marginal Notes.
The only Liberty taken, has been to use the Types of the present
Day, instead of the old English Letter of the Time of Elizabeth.

The Publishers submit to the Public this Edition of a curious and
valuable Chronicle of our History, with a confident Hope, that it
will gratify both the Historical Student and the General Reader.
If it meet with the Reception which they anticipate, they will be
encouraged to select some others of the rarest and most important
of our ancient Chronicles, and reprint them, in like Manner, for
the Convenience and Gratification of the Public.




TO THE

RIGHT HONORABLE, AND HIS SINGULAR GOOD LORD AND MAISTER,

_S. WILLIAM BROOKE KNIGHT,_

LORD WARDEN OF THE CINQUE PORTS, AND BARON OF COBHAM, ALL INCREASE
OF THE FEARE AND KNOWLEDGE OF GOD, FIRME OBEDIENCE TOWARD HIS
PRINCE, INFALLIBLE LOUE TO THE COMMON WEALTH, AND COMMENDABLE
RENOWME HERE IN THIS WORLD, AND IN THE WORLD TO COME LIFE EUERLASTING.


Hauing had iust occasion, Right Honorable, to remaine in London,
during the time of Trinitie terme last passed, and being earnestlie
required of diuers my freends, to set downe some breefe discourse
of parcell of those things, which I had obserued in the reading of
such manifold antiquities as I had perused toward the furniture of
a Chronologie, which I haue yet in hand; I was at the first verie
loth to yeeld to their desires: first, for that I thought my selfe
vnable for want of skill and iudgment, so suddenlie & with so hastie
speed to take such a charge vpon me: secondlie, bicause the dealing
therein might prooue an hinderance and impechment vnto mine owne
Treatise: and finallie, for that I had giuen ouer all earnest studie
of histories, as iudging the time spent about the same, to be an
hinderance vnto my more necessarie dealings in that vocation &
function wherevnto I am called in the ministerie. But when they
were so importunate with me, that no reasonable excuse could serue
to put by this trauell, I condescended at the length vnto their
yrkesome sute, promising that I would spend such void time as I
had to spare, whilest I should be inforced to tarie in the citie,
vpon some thing or other that should satisfie their request; and
stand in lieu of a description of my Countrie. For their parts also
they assured me of such helps as they could purchase: and thus with
hope of good, although no gaie successe, I went in hand withall,
then almost as one leaning altogither vnto memorie, sith my books
and I were parted by fourtie miles in sunder. In this order also
I spent a part of Michaelmas and Hilarie termes insuing, being
inforced thereto I say by other businesses which compelled me to
keepe in the citie, and absent my selfe from my charge, though in
the meane season I had some repaire vnto my poore librarie, but
not so great as the dignitie of the matter required, and yet far
greater than the Printers hast would suffer. One helpe, and none
of the smallest that I obtained herein, was by such commentaries
as _Leland_ had somtime collected of the state of Britaine, books
vtterlie mangled, defaced with wet and weather, and finallie
vnperfect through want of sundrie volumes: secondlie, I gat some
knowledge of things by letters and pamphlets, from sundrie places
& shires of England, but so discordant now and then amongst
themselues, especiallie in the names and courses of riuers and
situation of townes, that I had oft greater trouble to reconcile
them one with an other, than orderlie to pen the whole discourse
of such points as they contained: the third aid did grow by conference
with diuers, either at the table or secretlie alone, wherein I
marked in what things the talkers did agree, and wherin they impugned
ech other, choosing in the end the former, and reiecting the later,
as one desirous to set foorth the truth absolutelie, or such things
in deed as were most likelie to be true. The last comfort arose by
mine owne reading of such writers as haue heretofore made mention
of the condition of our countrie, in speaking wherof, if I should
make account of the successe, & extraordinarie comming by sundrie
treatises not supposed to be extant, I should but seeme to pronounce
more than may well be said with modestie, & say farder of my selfe
than this Treatise can beare witnes of. Howbeit, I refer not this
successe wholie vnto my purpose about this Description, but rather
giue notice thereof to come to passe in the penning of my Chronologie,
whose crums as it were fell out verie well in the framing of this
Pamphlet. In the processe therefore of this Booke, if your Honor
regard the substance of that which is here declared, I must needs
confesse that it is none of mine owne: but if your Lordship haue
consideration of the barbarous composition shewed herein, that I
may boldlie claime and challenge for mine owne, sith there is no
man of any so slender skill, that will defraud me of that reproch,
which is due vnto me for the meere negligence, disorder, and euill
disposition of matter comprehended in the same. Certes I protest
before God and your Honour, that I neuer made any choise of stile,
or words, neither regarded to handle this Treatise in such precise
order and method as manie other would haue done, thinking it
sufficient, truelie and plainelie to set foorth such things as I
minded to intreat of, rather than with vaine affectation of eloquence
to paint out a rotten sepulchre; a thing neither commendable in a
writer, nor profitable to the reader. How other affaires troubled
me in the writing hereof manie know, and peraduenture the slacknesse
shewed herein can better testifie: but howsoeuer it be done, &
whatsoeuer I haue done, I haue had an especiall eye vnto the truth
of things, and for the rest, I hope that this foule frizeled Treatise
of mine will prooue a spur to others better learned, more skilfull
in Chorographie, and of greater iudgement in choise of matter to
handle the selfe same argument, if in my life time I doo not peruse
it againe. It is possible also that your Honour will mislike hereof,
for that I haue not by mine owne trauell and eysight viewed such
things as I doo here intreat of. In deed I must needs confesse,
that vntill now of late, except it were from the parish where I
dwell, vnto your Honour in Kent; or out of London where I was borne,
vnto Oxford & Cambridge where I haue bene brought vp, I neuer
trauelled 40. miles foorthright and at one iourney in all my life;
neuerthelesse in my report of these things, I vse their authorities,
who either haue performed in their persons, or left in writing vpon
sufficient ground (as I said before) whatsoeuer is wanting in mine.
It may be in like sort that your Honour will take offense at my
rash and retchlesse behauiour vsed in the composition of this
volume, and much more that being scambled vp after this maner, I
dare presume to make tendour of the protection therof vnto your
Lordships hands. But when I consider the singular affection that
your Honour dooth beare to those that in any wise will trauell to
set foorth such profitable things as lie hidden, and therevnto doo
weigh on mine owne behalfe my bounden dutie and gratefull mind to
such a one as hath so manie and sundrie waies benefited me that
otherwise can make no recompense, I can not but cut off all such
occasion of doubt, and therevpon exhibit it, such as it is, and so
penned as it is, vnto your Lordships tuition, vnto whome if it may
seeme in anie wise acceptable, I haue my whole desire. And as I am
the first that (notwithstanding the great repugnancie to be seene
among our writers) hath taken vpon him so particularlie to describe
this Ile of Britaine; so I hope the learned and godlie will beare
withall, & reforme with charitie where I doo tread amisse. As for
the curious, and such as can rather euill fauouredlie espie than
skilfullie correct an error, and sooner carpe at another mans
dooings than publish any thing of their owne, (keeping themselues
close with an obscure admiration of learning & knowledge among the
common sort) I force not what they saie hereof: for whether it doo
please or displease them, all is one to me, sith I referre my whole
trauell in the gratification of your Honour, and such as are of
experience to consider of my trauell, and the large scope of things
purposed in this Treatise, of whome my seruice in this behalfe may
be taken in good part, that I will repute for my full recompense,
and large guerdon of my labours. The Almightie God preserue your
Lordship in continuall health, wealth, and prosperitie, with my
good Ladie your wife, your Honours children, (whom God hath indued
with a singular towardnesse vnto all vertue and learning) and the
rest of your reformed familie, vnto whom I wish farder increase of
his holie spirit, vnderstanding of his word, augmentation of honor,
and continuance of zeale to follow his commandements.

_Your Lordships humble seruant and houshold Chaplein._

W. H.




¶ THE NAMES OF THE AUTHORS

FROM WHOME THIS

_HISTORIE OF ENGLAND_

IS COLLECTED.

 * * * * *

A.

Aelius Spartianus.
Aelius Lampridius.
Asserius Meneuensis.
Alfridus Beuerlacensis.
Aeneas Syluius Senensis.
Auentinus.
Adam Merimouth with additions.
Antoninus Archiepiscopus Florentinus.
Albertus Crantz.  Alexander Neuill.
Arnoldus Ferronius.
Annius Viterbiensis.
Amianus Marcellinus.
Alliances genealogiques des Roys & Princes de France.
Annales D. Aquitaine per Iean Bouchet.
Annales de Bourgoigne per Guilamme Paradin.
Annales de France per Nicol Giles.
Annales rerum Flandricarum per Jacobum Meir.
Antonius Sabellicus.
Antonius Nebricensis. Aurea Historia.

B.

Biblia Sacra.  Beda venerabilis.
Berosus.  Brian Tuke knight.
Blondus Forliuiensis.
Berdmondsey, a Register booke belonging to that house.

C.

Caesars Commentaries.
Cornelius Tacitus.
Chronica Chronicorum.
Chronica de Dunstable, a booke of Annales belonging to the Abbey there.
Chronicon Io. Tilij.
Chronica de Eyton, an historie belonging to that colledge, although
  compiled by some Northernman, as some suppose named Otherborne.
Chronicles of S. Albon.
Chronica de Abingdon, a booke of Annales belonging to that house.
Chronica de Teukesburie.
Claudianus.
Chronicon Genebrard.
Chroniques de Normandie.
Chroniques de Britaine.
Chroniques de Flanders published by Denis Sauage.
Continuation de Historie and Chroniques de Flanders by the same Sauage.
Couper.  Cuspinianus.
Chronica Sancti Albani.
Caxtons Chronicles.
Carion with additions.
Crockesden, a Register booke belonging to an house of that name in
  Staffordshire.

D.

Diodorus Siculus.
Dion Cassius.
Dominicus Marius Niger.

E.

Edmerus.
Eusebius.  Eutropius.
Encomium Emmae, an old Pamphlet written to hir, conteining much good
  matter for the vnderstanding of the state of this realme in hir
  time, wherein hir praise is not pretermitted, and so hath obteined
  by reason thereof that title.
Enguerant de Monstrellet.
Eulogium.
Edmund Campian.

F.

Fabian.  Froissart.
Franciscus Tarapha.
Franciscus Petrarcha.
Flauius Vopiscus Siracusanus.
Floriacensis Vigorinensis.

G.

Gviciardini Francisco.
Guiciardini Ludouico.
Gildas Sapiens.
Galfridus Monemutensis, aliàs Geffrey of Monmouth.
Giraldus Cambrensis.
Guilielmus Malmesburiensis.
Galfridus Vinsauf.
Guilielmus Nouoburgensis.
Guilielmus Thorne.
Gualterus Hemmingford, aliàs Gisburnensis.
Geruasius Dorobernensis.
Geruasius Tilberiensis.
Guilielmus Gemeticensis de ducibus Normaniae.
Guilielmus Rishanger.
Guilielmus Lambert.  Georgius Lillie.
Guilamme Paradin.

H.

Higinus.
Henricus Huntingtonensis.
Henricus Leicestrensis.
Hector Boece.  Historie Daniou.
Historia Ecclesiastica Magdeburgensis.
Henricus Mutius.
Historia quadripartita seu quadrilogium.
Hardings Chronicle.
Halles Chronicle.  Henricus Bradshaw.
Henricus Marleburgensis.
Herodianus.  Humfrey Luyd.

I.

Iohannes Bale.
Iohannes Leland.
Iacobus Philippus Bergomas.
Iulius Capitolinus.   Iulius Solinus.
Iohannes Pike with additions.
Iohannes Functius.
Iohn Price knight.  Iohannes Textor.
Iohannes Bodinus.  Iohannes Sleidan.
Iohannes Euersden a Monke of Berry.
Iohannes or rather Giouan villani a Florentine.
Iohannes Baptista Egnatius.
Iohannes Capgraue.
Iohannes Fourden.  Iohannes Caius.
Iacob de Voragine Bishop of Nebio.
Iean de Bauge a Frenchman wrote a pamphlet of the warres in Scotland,
  during the time that Monsieur de Desse remained there.
Iohn Fox.  Iohannes Maior.
Iohn Stow, by whose diligent collected summarie, I haue beene not
  onelie aided, but also by diuers rare monuments, ancient writers,
  and necessarie register bookes of his, which he hath lent me out of
  his own Librarie. Iosephus.

L.

Liber constitutionum London.
Lucan.  Laelius Giraldus.

M.

Marianus Scotus.  Mattaeus Paris.
Matthaeus Westmonaster.  aliàs Flores historiarum.
Martin du Bellay, aliàs Mons. de Langey.
Mamertinus in Panegyricis.
Memoires de la Marche.

N.

Nicephorus.  Nennius.
Nicholaus Treuet with additions.

O.

Orosius Dorobernensis.
Osbernus Dorobernensis.
Otho Phrisingensis.

P.

Pausanias.  Paulus Diaconus.
Paulus Aemilius.
Ponticus Virunius.  Pomponius Laetus.
Philip de Cumeins, aliàs M. de Argenton.
Polydor Virgil.  Paulus Iouius.
Platina.  Philippus Melancthon.
Peucerus.  Pomponius Mela.

R.

Rogerus Houeden.
Ranulfus Higeden, aliàs Cestrensis the author of Polychronicon.
Radulfus Cogheshall.  Radulfus Niger.
Register of the Garter.
Records of Battell Abbey.
Richardus Southwell.  Robert Greene.
Radulfus de Diceto.  Robert Gaguin.
Rodericus Archiepiscopus Toletanus.
Records and rolles diuerse.

S.

Strabo.  Suetonius.
Sigebertus Gemblacensis.
Sidon Appollinaris. Simon Dunelmensis.
Sextus Aurelius Victor.

T.

Trebellius Pollio.
Thomas More knight.
Thomas Spot.  Thomas Walsingham.
Titus Liuius de Foroliuisijs de vita Henrici. 5. Titus Liuius
  Patauiensis.
Thomas Lanquet.  Thomas Couper.
Taxtor a Monke of Berry.  Theuet.
Thomas de la More.   Tripartita Historia.

V.

Vvlcatius Gallicanus.
Volfgangus Lazius.

W.

Whethamsted, a learned man, sometime Abbat of Saint Albons a
  Chronicler.
William Harrison.
William Patten of the expedition into Scotland. 1574.
William Proctor of Wiats rebellion.

Besides these, diuers other bookes and treatises of historicall
matter I haue seene and perused, the names of the authors being
vtterlie vnknowne.



REGVM ANGLIAE

SERIES & CATALOGUS.


[Sidenote: Wil. Conqu.]
[Sidenote: Wil. Rufus.]
[Sidenote: Henricus 1.]
[Sidenote: Stephanus.]
  Conquestor, Rufus, prior Henricus, Stephanúsque,
[Sidenote: Henricus 2.]
[Sidenote: Richardus 1.]
  Alter & Henricus, Leonino corde Richardus,
[Sidenote: Ioannes.]
[Sidenote: Henricus 3.]
  Rex & Ioannes, Henricus tertius inde:
[Sidenote: Eduardus 1.]
[Sidenote: Eduardus 2.]
[Sidenote: Eduardus 3.]
  Eduardus primus, Gnatúsque, Nepósque sequuntur:
[Sidenote: Richardus 2.]
  His infoelicem Richardum iunge secundum:
[Sidenote: Henricus 4.]
  Henricus quartus soboles Gandaui Ioannis,
[Sidenote: Henricus 5.]
[Sidenote: Henricus 6.]
  Praecedit Gnato quinto, sextóque Nepoti:
[Sidenote: Eduardus 4.]
[Sidenote: Eduardus 5.]
[Sidenote: Richardus 3.]
  Eduardus quartus, quintus, homicida Richardus,
[Sidenote: Henricus 7.]
[Sidenote: Henricus 8.]
  Septimi & Henricus octauus clara propago:
[Sidenote: Eduardus 6.]
[Sidenote: Phil. & Mar.]
  Eduardus sextus, regina Maria, Philippus:
[Sidenote: Elisabeth.]
  Elisabeth longos regnet victura per annos,
  Seráque promisso foelix potiatur olympo.

 * * * * *

CARMEN CHRONOLOGICON

THOMAE NEWTONI CESTRESHYRIJ.

  Gramine, fluminibus, grege, principe, fruge, metallis,
    Lacte, feris, armis, vrbibus, arte, foris,
  Quae viget ac floret generosa Britannia, quaeque,
    Obruta puluereo squalluit ante situ:
  Exerit ecce caput, genuinum nacta nitorem,
    Et rutilum emittit cum grauitate iubar.
  Et quod blaesa hominum mutilarat tempore lingua,
    Illud habet rectum pumice tersa nouo.
[Sidenote: Loydus.]
  Loydus in hac pridem gnauus prolusit arena,
[Sidenote: Lelandus.]
[Sidenote: Prisius.]
[Sidenote: Stous.]
[Sidenote: Holinshedius.]
    Lelandus, Prisius, Stous, Holinshedius,
[Sidenote: Lambardus.]
[Sidenote: Morus.]
[Sidenote: Camdenus.]
[Sidenote: Thinnius.]
[Sidenote: Hallus.]
  Lambardus, Morus, Camdenus, Thinnius, Hallus,
[Sidenote: Vocalis aliàs Hookerus.]
[Sidenote: Graftonus.]
[Sidenote: Foxius.]
[Sidenote: Harrisonus.]
    Vocalis, Grafton, Foxius, Harrisonus,
[Sidenote: Hardingus.]
[Sidenote: Gildas.]
[Sidenote: Staniherstus.]
[Sidenote: Beda.]
[Sidenote: Neuillus.]
  Hardingus, Gildas, Staniherstus, Beda, Neuillus,
[Sidenote: Flemingus.]
    Doctáque Flemingi lima poliuit opus:
[Sidenote: Parkerus.]
  Nec te cane senex, magne ô Parkere, silebo,
    Cui decus attulerat pontificalis apex.
  Omnibus his meritò est laus debita & optima merces,
    Quòd patriae accendant lumina clara suae.
  Longa dies opus hoc peperit, longaeua senectus,
    Et libri authores perbeet, atque librum.

AN

HISTORICALL DESCRIPTION

OF

THE ILAND OF BRITAINE;

WITH A BRIEFE REHERSALL OF

THE NATURE AND QUALITIES OF THE PEOPLE OF ENGLAND,

AND

SUCH COMMODITIES AS ARE TO BE FOUND IN THE SAME.

_COMPREHENDED IN THREE BOOKES, AND WRITTEN BY W. H._

 * * * * *

A TABLE OF SUCH CHAPITERS AS ARE CONTEINED IN THE FIRST BOOKE OF
THIS DESCRIPTION.

1 _Of the diuision of the whole earth._

2 _Of the position, circuit, forme, and quantitie of the Ile of
Britaine._

3 _Of the ancient denominations of this Iland._

4 _What sundrie nations haue dwelled in Albion._

5 _Whether it be likelie that anie giants were, and whether they
inhabited in this Ile or not._

6 _Of the languages spoken in this Iland._

7 _Into how manie kingdoms this Iland hath beene diuided._

8 _The names of such kings and princes as haue reigned in this
Iland._

9 _Of the ancient religion vsed in Albion._

10 _Of such Ilands as are to be seene vpon the coasts of Britaine._

11 _Of riuers, and first of the Thames, and such riuers as fall
into it._

12 _Of such streames as fall into the sea, betweene the Thames and
the mouth of Sauerne._

13 _The description of the Sauerne, and such waters as discharge
themselues into the same._

14 _Of such waters as fall into the sea in compasse of the Iland,
betweene the Sauerne and the Humber._

15 _The description of the Humber or Isis, and such water-courses
as doo increase hir chanell._

16 _Of such fals of waters as ioine with the sea, betweene Humber
and the Thames._

17 _Of such ports and creeks as our sea-faring men doo note for
their benefit vpon the coasts of England._

18 _Of the aire, soile, and commodities of this Iland._

19 _Of the foure high waies sometime made in Britaine by the princes
of this Iland._

20 _Of the generall constitution of the bodies of the Britons._

21 _How Britaine at the first grew to be diuided into three portions._

22 _After what maner the souereigntie of this Ile dooth remaine to
the princes of Lhoegres or kings of England._

23 _Of the wall sometime builded for a partition betweene England
and the Picts and Scots._

24 _Of the maruels of England._

 * * * * *




OF THE DIUISION OF THE WHOLE EARTH.

CHAPTER I.


[Sidenote: Noah first diuided the earth among his sonnes.]
We read that the earth hath beene diuided into thrée parts, euen
sithens the generall floud. And the common opinion is, that Noah
limited and bestowed it vpon his three sons, Japhet, Cham, and Sem,
preserued with him in the Arke, giuing vnto each of them such
portions thereof as to him séemed good, and neuerthelesse reteining
the souereigntie of the whole still vnto himselfe: albeit as yet
it be left vncertaine how those seuerall parts were bounded, and
from whome they tooke such names as in our times are attributed to
each of them. Certes the words, Asia, Europa, and Africa, are
denominations giuen but of late (to speake of) vnto them, and it
is to be doubted, whether sithens the time of Noah, the sea hath
in sundrie places wonne or lost, added or diminished to and from
each of them; or whether Europa, and Lybia were but one portion;
and the same westerlie regions of late discouered (and now called
America,) was the third part (counting Asia for the second) or the
selfe region of the Atlantides, which Plato and others, for want
of traffike thither in their times, supposed to be dissolued and
sunke into the sea: as by their writings appeereth.

[Sidenote: The diuision of the earth not yet certeinlie knowne.]
Not long before my time, we reckoned Asia, Europa, and Africa, for
a full and perfect diuision of the whole earth, which are parcels
onelie of that huge Iland that lieth east of the Atlantike sea,
and whereof the first is diuided from the second by Tanais (which
riseth in the rocks of Caucasus, and hideth it selfe in the Meotine
moores) and the Ocean sea; and the last from them both by the
Mediterrane and red sea, otherwise called Mare Erythraeum. But
now all men, especially the learned, begin to doubt of the soundnes
of that partition; bicause a no lesse part than the greatest of
the thrée ioined with those Ilands and maine which lie vnder the
north and Southpoles, if not double in quantitie vnto the same,
are found out and discouered by the diligence of our trauellers.
Hereby it appeereth, that either the earth was not exactlie diuided
in time past by antiquitie; or els, that the true diuision thereof
came not to the hands and notice of their posteritie, so that our
ancestors haue hitherto as it were laboured in the Cimmerian
darkenesse, and were vtterlie ignorant of the truth of that whereabout
they indeuoured to shew their trauels and knowledge in their
writings. Some peece of this confusion also is to be found amongst
the ancient and Romane writers, who (notwithstanding their large
conquests) did sticke in the same mire with their successors, not
being able (as appeereth by their treatises) to deliuer and set
[Sidenote: Variance among the writers about the diusion of the earth.]
downe the veritie. For Salust in his booke De bello Iugurthino
cannot tell whether Africa be parcell of Asia or not. And with the
same scruple Varro in his booke De lingua Lat. is not a litle
incumbred, who in the end concludeth, that the whole earth is
diuided into Asia and Europa: so that Africa is excluded and driuen
out of his place. Silius also writeth of Africa, (as one not yet
resolued wherevnto to leane,) that it is;

  Aut ingens Asiae latus, aut pars tertia rerum.

Wherein Lucane lib. 9. sheweth himselfe to be far of another
iudgement, in that he ascribeth it to Europa, saieng after this
maner:

  Tertia pars rerum Lybia: si credere famae
  Cuncta velis, si ventos coelúmque sequaris,
  Pars erit Europae, nec enim plus littora Nili
  Quàm Scythicus Tanais primis à gradibus absunt.

Whereby (I saie) we may well vnderstand, that in the time of Augustus
Tiberius, Claudius & Nero, the Romanes were not yet resolued of
the diuision of the earth. For my part, as I indeuour not to remooue
the credit of that which antiquitie hath deliuered (and yet loth
to continue and maintaine any corruption that may be redressed) so
I thinke good to giue foorth a new diuision more probable, & better
[Sidenote: The earth diuided into fiue parts, whereas _Belforest_
hath but foure, in _Prefat. lib. 4._]
agreeing with a truth. And therefore I diuide the whole into fiue
seuerall parcels, reteining the common diuision in the first three,
as before; and vnto the fourth allowing not onelie all that portion
that lieth by north of the Magellan streicts, and those Hyperborean
Ilands which lie west of the line of longitude, of late discouered
by Frobisher, and called by hir Maiestie Meta incognita: but likewise
so manie Ilands as are within 180. degrees Westwards from our
beginning or common line of longitude, whereby they are parted from
those, which by this diuision are allotted vnto Asia, and the
portion it selfe made equipollent with the same for greatnes, and
far excéeding either Europa or Africa, if it be not fullie so much
in quantitie as they both vnited and laid togither. The fift &
last part is the Antartike portion with hir Ilands annexed, that
region (I meane) which lieth vnder the South pole, cut off from
America, or the fourth part by the Magellan streicts; & from Africa
[Sidenote: Cape di bona Speranza.]
by the sea which passeth by the Cape of good hope; a countrie no
lesse large for limits and bounds than Africa or America, and
therefore right worthie to be called the fift: howsoeuer it shall
please the curious to mislike of this diuision. This also I will
adde, that albeit the continent hereof doo not extend it selfe vnto
[Sidenote: The forme of the fift part.]
the verie Antartike point, but lieth as it were a long table betwéene
two seas, of which the later is vnder the South poole, and as I
may call it a maine sea vnder the aforesaid pricke, yet is it not
without sundrie Ilands also adjoining vnto it, and the inner most
sea not destitute of manie, as by experience hath béene of late
confirmed. Furthermore, whereas our describers of the earth haue
made it such in their descriptions, as hath reached litle or nothing
into the peaceable sea without the Antartike circle: it is now
found by Theuet and others, that it extendeth it selfe northwards
into that trace, by no small number of leagues, euen in maner to
the Equator, in so much that the westerlie part thereof from America,
is supposed to reach northward so far from the Antartike article,
as Africa dooth southwards from the tropike of Cancer, which is no
small portion of ground; & I maruell why not obserued by such as
heretofore haue written of the same. But they excuse themselues by
the ingratitude of the Portingals and Spaniards, who haue of purpose
concealed manie things found out in their trauell, least they should
séeme to open a gap by dooing otherwise, for strangers to enter
into their conquests. As for those Ilands also which lie in the
peaceable sea, scattered here and there, as Iaua the greater, the
lesser Sumatra, Iapan, Burneo, &c: with a number of other, I refer
them still unto Asia, as before, so as they be without the compasse
of 90. degrees eastward from the line of longitude, & not aboue
180. as I doo the Ile of S. Laurence, and a number of other vnto
Africa within the said proportion, wishing so little alteration as
I may: and yet not yeelding vnto any confusion, whereby the truth
of the diuision should hereafter be impeached.

And whereas by Virgil (speaking of our Iland) saith;

  Et penitùs toto diuisos orbe Britannos,

[Sidenote: Unto what portion Britaine is referred.]
And some other authors not vnworthie to be read and perused, it is
not certeine vnto which portion of the earth our Ilands, and Thule,
with sundrie the like scattered in the north seas should be ascribed,
bicause they excluded them (as you sée) from the rest of the whole
earth: I have thought good, for facilitie sake of diuision, to
refer them all which lie within the first minute of longitude, set
downe by Ptolome, to Europa, and that as reason requireth: so that
the aforesaid line shall henceforth be their Meta & partition from
such as are to be ascribed to America; albeit they come verie neere
vnto the aforesaid portion, & may otherwise (without prejudice) be
numbred with the same. It may be that some will thinke this my
dealing either to be superfluous, or to procéed from (I wot not
what) foolish curiosities for the world is now growne to be very
apt and readie to iudge the hardest of euerie attempt. But forsomuch
as my purpose is to leaue a plaine report of such matter as I doo
write of, and deliuer such things as I intreat of in distinct and
vpright order; though method now and then doo faile, I will go
forward with my indeuour, referring the examination of my dooings
to the indifferent and learned eare, without regard what the other
doo conceiue and imagine of me. In the meane season therefore it
shall suffice to say at this time, that Albion as the mother, and
the rest of the Ilands as hir daughters, lieng east of the line of
longitude, be still ascribed vnto Europa: wherevnto some good
authours heretofore in their writings, & their owne proper or
naturall situations also haue not amisse referred them.




OF THE POSITION, CIRCUIT, FORME, AND QUANTITIE OF THE ILE OF
BRITAINE.

CAP. II.


[Sidenote: How Britaine lieth from the maine.]
Britannia or Britain, as we now terme it in our English toong, or
Brutania as some pronounce it (by reason of the letter y in the
first syllable of the word, as antiquitie did sometime deliuer it)
is an Ile lieng in the Ocean sea, directlie ouer against that part
of France which conteineth Picardie, Normandie, and thereto the
greatest part of little Britaine, which later region was called in
time past Armorica, of the situation thereof vpon the sea coast,
vntill such time as a companie of Britons (either led ouer by some
of the Romane Emperours, or flieng thither from the tyrannie of
such as oppressed them here in this Iland) did setle themselues
there, and called it Britaine, after the name of their owne countrie,
from whence they aduentured thither. It hath Ireland vpon the west
side, on the north the maine sea, euen to Thule and the Hyperboreans;
and on the east side also the Germane Ocean, by which we passe
dailie through the trade of merchandize, not onlie into the low
countries of Belgie, now miserablie afflicted betwéene the Spanish
power and popish inquisition (as spice betweene the morter and the
pestell) but also into Germanie, Friezeland, Denmarke, and Norwaie,
carrieng from hence thither, and bringing from thence hither, all
such necessarie commodities as the seuerall countries doo yeeld:
through which meanes, and besides common amitie conserued, traffike
is mainteined, and the necessitie of each partie abundantlie
reléeued.

[Sidenote: The longitude and latitude of this Ile.]
It conteineth in longitude taken by the middest of the region 19.
degrees exactlie: and in latitude 53. degrées, and thirtie min.
after the opinions of those that haue diligentlie obserued the same
in our daies, and the faithfull report of such writers as haue left
notice thereof vnto vs, in their learned treatises to be perpetuallie
remembred. Howbeit, whereas some in setting downe of these two
lines, haue seemed to varie about the placing of the same, each of
them diuerslie remembring the names of sundrie cities and townes,
whereby they affirme them to haue their seuerall courses: for my
part I haue thought good to procéed somewhat after another sort;
that is, by diuiding the latest and best chards each way into two
equall parts (so neere as I can possiblie bring the same to passe)
wherby for the middle of latitude, I product Caerlile and Newcastell
[Sidenote: Longest day.]
vpon Tine, (whose longest day consisteth of sixteene houres, 48.
minuts) and for the longitude, Newberie, Warwike, Sheffield, Skipton,
&c: which dealing, in mine opinion, is most easie and indifferent,
and likeliest meane to come by the certeine standing and situation
of our Iland.

[Sidenote: The compasse of Britaine.]
Touching the length and bredth of the same, I find some variance
amongst writers: for after some, there are from the Piere or point
of Douer, vnto the farthest part of Cornewall westwards 320. miles:
from thence againe to the point of Cathnesse by the Irish sea 800.
Wherby Polydore and other doo gather, that the circuit of the whole
Iland of Britaine is 1720. miles, which is full 280. lesse than
Caesar dooth set downe, except there be some difference betwéene
the Romane and British miles, as there is indeed; wherof hereafter
I may make some farther conference.

Martianus writing of the bredth of Britaine, hath onlie 300. miles,
but Orosius hath 1200. in the whole compasse. Ethicus also agreeing
with Plinie, Martianus, and Solinus, hath 800. miles of length,
but in the breadth he commeth short of their account by 120. miles.
In like maner Dion in Seuero maketh the one of 891. miles: but the
other; to wit, where it is broadest, of 289. and where it is
narrowest, of 37. Finally, Diodorus Siculus affirmeth the south
coast to conteine 7000. furlongs, the second; to wit, à Carione ad
Promontorium 15000. the third 20000. and the whole circuit to
consist of 42000. But in our time we reckon the breadth from Douer
to Cornewall, not to be aboue 300. miles, and the length from Douer
to Cathnesse, no more than 500. which neuerthelesse must be measured
by a right line, for otherwise I see not how the said diuision can
hold.

[Sidenote: The forme.]
The forme and fashion of this Ile is thrée-cornered, as some have
deuised, like vnto a triangle, bastard sword, wedge, or partesant,
being broadest in the south part, and gathering still narrower and
narrower, till it come to the farthest point of Cathnesse northward,
where it is narrowest of all, & there endeth in maner of a promontorie
called Caledonium & Orchas in British Morwerydh, which is not aboue
30. miles ouer, as dailie experience by actuail trauell dooth
confirme.

[Sidenote: Promontories of Britaine.]
The old writers giue vnto the three principall corners, crags,
points, and promontories of this Iland, thrée seuerall names. As
vnto that of Kent, Cantium, that of Cornewall, Hellenes, and of
Scotland, Caledonium, and Orchas; and these are called principall,
in respect of the other, which are Taruisium, Nouantum, Epidium,
Gangacum, Octapites, Herculeum, Antiuesteum, Ocrinum, Berubium,
Taizalum, Acantium, &c: of which I thought good also to leaue this
notice, to the end that such as shall come after, may thereby take
occasion to seeke out their true places, wherof as yet I am in
maner ignorant, I meane for the most part; bicause I haue no sound
author that dooth leade mée to their knowledge.

[Sidenote: The distance from the maine.]
Furthermore, the shortest and most vsuall cut that we haue out of
our Iland to the maine, is from Douer (the farthest part of Kent
eastward) unto Calice a towne in Picardie 1300. miles from Rome,
in old time called Petressa and Scalas, though some like better of
blacknesse where the breadth of the sea is not aboue thirtie miles.
Which course, as it is now frequented and vsed for the most common
and safe passage of such as come into our countrie out of France
and diuers other realms, so it hath not beene vnknowne of old time
vnto the Romans, who for the most part vsed these two hauens for
their passage and repassage to and fro; although we finde, that
now and then diuerse of them came also from Bullen, and landed at
Sandwich, or some other places of the coast more toward the west,
or betweene Hide and Lid; to wit, Romneie marsh, (which in old time
was called Romania or Romanorum insula) as to auoid the force of
the wind & weather, that often molesteth seafaringmen in these
narrowe seas, best liked them for their safegards. Betweene the
part of Holland also, which lieth néere the mouth of the Rhene and
this our Iland, are 900. furlongs, as Sosimus saith; and besides
him, diuers other writers, which being conuerted into English miles,
doo yeeld 112. and foure od furlongs, whereby the iust distance of
the neerest part of Britaine, from that part of the maine also,
dooth certeinlie appéere to be much lesse than the common maps of
our countrie haue hitherto set downe.




OF THE ANCIENT NAMES OR DENOMINATIONS OF THIS ILAND.

CAP. III.


[Sidenote: Dis, Samothes.]
In the diligent perusall of their treatises, who haue written of
the state of this our Iland, I find that at the first it séemed to
be a parcell of the Celtike kingdome, whereof Dis otherwise called
Samothes, one of the sonnes of Japhet was the Saturne or originall
beginner, and of him thencefoorth for a long while called Samothea.
Afterward in processe of time, when desire of rule began to take
hold in the minds of men, and ech prince endeuoured to enlarge his
[Sidenote: Neptunus Marioticus.]
owne dominions: Albion the sonne of Neptune, Amphitrite surnamed
Marioticus (bicause his dominions laie among the ilands of the
Mediterran sea, as those of Plutus did on the lower grounds neere
vnto shore, as contrariwise his father Jupiter dwelled on the high
hils néerer to heauen) hearing of the commodities of the countrie,
[Sidenote: The first conquest of Britaine.]
and plentifulnesse of soile here, made a voiage ouer, and finding
the thing not onelie correspondent vnto, but also farre surmounting
the report that went of this Iland, it was not long after yer he
inuaded the same by force of armes, brought it to his subiection
in the 29. yeare after his grandfathers decease, and finallie
changed the name thereof into Albion, whereby the former denomination
after Samothes did grow out of mind, and fall into vtter forgetfulnesse.
And thus was this Iland bereft at on time both of hir ancient name,
and also of hir lawfull succession of princes descended of the line
[Sidenote: Britaine under the Celts 341. yeares.]
of Japhet, vnder whom it had continued by the space of 341. yeres
and nine princes, as by the Chronologie following shall easilie
appeere.

Goropius our neighbor being verie nice in the denomination of our
Iland, as in most other points of his huge volume of the originall
of Antwarpe lib. 6. (whom Buchanan also followeth in part) is
brought into great doubt, whether Britaine was called Albion of
the word Alb, white; or Alp an hill; as Bodinus is no lesse troubled
with fetching the same ab Oibijs, or as he wresteth it, ab Albijs
gallis. But here his inconstancie appeareth, in that in his
Gotthadamca liber. 7. he taketh no lesse paines to bring the
Britaines out of Denmarke, whereby the name of the Iland should be
called Vridania, Freedania, Brithania, or Bridania, tanquam libera
Dania, as another also dooth to fetch the originall out of Spaine,
where Breta signifieth soile or earth. But as such as walke in
darkenesse doo often straie, bicause they wot not whither they go:
euen so doo these men, whilest they seeke to extenuate the certeintie
of our histories, and bring vs altogither to uncerteinties & their
coniectures. They in like maner, which will haue the Welshmen come
from the French with this one question, vnde Walli nisi a Gallis,
or from some Spanish colonie, doo greatlie bewraie their oversights;
but most of all they erre that endeuour to fetch it from Albine
the imagined daughter of a forged Dioclesian, wherewith our ignorant
writers haue of late not a little stained our historie, and brought
the sound part thereof into some discredit and mistrust: but more
of this hereafter.

[Sidenote: Neptune God of the sea.]
Now to speake somewhat also of Neptune as by the waie (sith I haue
made mention of him in this place) it shall not be altogither
impertinent. Wherfore you shall vnderstand, that for his excellent
knowledge in the art of nauigation (as nauigation then went) he
was reputed the most skilfull prince that liued in his time. And
therfore, and likewise for his courage & boldnesse in aduenturing
to and fro, he was after his decease honoured as a god, and the
protection of such as trauelled by sea committed to his charge.
[Sidenote: The maner of dressing of ships in old time.]
So rude also was the making of ships wherewith to saile in his time
(which were for the most part flat bottomed and broad) that for
lacke of better experience to calke and trim the same after they
were builded, they vsed to naile them ouer with rawe hides of
bulles, buffles, and such like, and with such a kind of nauie (as
they say) first Samothes, & then Albion arriued in this Iland,
which vnto me doth not séeme a thing impossible. The northerlie or
artike regions, doo not naile their ships with iron, which they
vtterly want, but with wooden pins, or els they bind the planks
togither verie artificiallie with bast ropes, osiers, rinds of
trées, or twigs of popler, the substance of those vessels being
either of fir or pine, sith oke is verie deintie & hard to be had
amongst them. Of their wooden anchors I speake not (which neuerthelesse
are common to them, and to the Gothlanders) more than of ships
wrought of wickers, sometime vsed in our Britaine, and couered with
leather euen in the time of Plinie, lib. 7. cap. 56. as also botes
made of rushes and réeds, &c. Neither haue I iust occasion to speake
of ships made of canes, of which sort Staurobates, king of India
fighting against Semiramis, brought 4000. with him and fought with
hir the first battell on the water that euer I read of, and vpon
the riuer Indus, but to his losse, for he was ouercome by hir power,
& his nauie either drowned or burned by the furie of hir souldiers.

But to proceed, when the said Albion had gouerned here in this
countrie by the space of seauen yeares, it came to passe that both
he and his brother Bergion were killed by Hercules at the mouth of
Rhodanus, as the said Hercules passed out of Spaine by the Celtes
to go ouer into Italie, and vpon this occasion (as I gather among
the writers) not vnworthie to be remembred. It happened in time of
[Sidenote: Lestrigo.]
Lucus king of the Celts, that Lestrigo and his issue (whom Osyris
[Sidenote: Janigenes were the posteritie of Noah in Italie.]
his grandfather had placed ouer the Janigenes) did exercise great
tyrannie, not onelie ouer his owne kingdome, but also in molestation
of such princes as inhabited round about him in most intollerable
maner. Moreouer he was not a little incouraged in these his dooings
[Sidenote: Neptune had xxxiii. sonnes.]
by Neptune his father, who thirsted greatly to leaue his xxxiii.
sonnes settled in the mightiest kingdoms of the world, as men of
whom he had alreadie conceiued this opinion, that if they had once
gotten foot into any region whatsoeuer, it would not be long yer
they did by some meanes or other, not onelie establish their seats,
but also increase their limits to the better maintenance of themselues
and their posteritie for euermore. To be short therefore, after
the giants, and great princes, or mightie men of the world had
conspired and slaine the aforsaid Osyris, onlie for that he was an
obstacle vnto them in their tyrannous dealing; Hercules his sonne,
surnamed Laabin, Lubim, or Libius, in the reuenge of his fathers
death, proclaimed open warres against them all, and going from
place to place, he ceased not to spoile their kingdomes, and
therewithall to kill them with great courage that fell into his
[Sidenote: Lomnimi.]
hands. Finallie, hauing among sundrie other ouercome the Lomnimi
[Sidenote: Geriones.]
or Geriones in Spaine, and vnderstanding that Lestrigo and his
sonnes did yet remaine in Italie, he directed his viage into those
parts, and taking the kingdome of the Celts in his waie, he remained
for a season with Lucus the king of that countrie, where he also
[Sidenote: Galathea. Galates, or Kelts.]
maried his daughter Galathea, and begat a sonne by hir, calling
him after his mothers name Galates, of whom in my said Chronologie
I haue spoken more at large.

In the meane time Albion vnderstanding how Hercules intended to
make warres against his brother Lestrigo, he thought good if it
were possible to stop him that tide, and therefore sending for his
[Sidenote: Bergion.]
brother Bergion out of the Orchades (where he also reigned as
supreame lord and gouernour) they ioined their powers, and sailed
[Sidenote: _Pomponius Mela cap. de Galtia._]
ouer into France. Being arriued there, it was not long yer they
met with Hercules and his armie, neare vnto the mouth of the riuer
called Roen (or the Rhodanus) where happened a cruell conflict
betwéene them, in which Hercules and his men were like to haue lost
the day, for that they were in maner wearied with long warres, and
their munition sore wasted in the last viage that he had made for
Spaine. Herevpon Hercules perceiuing the courages of his souldiours
somewhat to abate, and seeing the want of artillerie like to be
the cause of his fatall daie and present ouerthrowe at hand, it
came suddenlie into his mind to will each of them to defend himselfe
by throwing stones at his enimie, whereof there laie great store
[Sidenote: _Strabo. lib. 4._]
then scattered in the place. The policie was no sooner published
than hearkened vnto and put in execution, whereby they so preuailed
in the end, that Hercules wan the field, their enimies were put to
flight, and Albion and his brother both slaine, and buried in that
plot. Thus was Britaine rid of a tyrant, Lucus king of the Celts
deliuered from an vsurper (that dailie incroched vpon him, building
sundrie cities and holds, of which some were placed among the Alps
& called after his owne name, and other also euen in his owne
kingdome on that side) and Lestrigo greatlie weakened by the
slaughter of his brethren. Of this inuention of Hercules in like
sort it commeth, that Jupiter father vnto Hercules (who indeed was
none other but Osyris) is feigned to throw downe stones from heauen
vpon Albion and Bergion, in the defense of his sonne: which came
so thicke vpon them, as if great drops of raine or haile should
haue descended from aboue, no man well knowing which waie to turne
him from their force, they came so fast and with so great a violence.

But to go forward, albeit that Albion and his power were thus
discomfited and slaine, yet the name that he gaue unto this Iland
died not, but still remained vnto the time of Brute, who arriuing
héere in the 1116. before Christ, and 2850. after the creation of
the world, not onelie changed it into Britaine (after it had beene
called Albion, by the space of about 600. yeares) but to declare
his souereigntie ouer the rest of the Ilands also that lie scattered
round about it, he called them all after the same maner, so that
Albion was said in time to be Britanniarum insula maxima, that is,
The greatest of those Iles that beare the name of Britaine, which
Plinie also confirmeth, and Strabo in his first and second bookes
denieth not. There are some, which vtterlie denieng that this
Iland tooke hir name of Brute, doo affirme it rather to be so called
of the rich mettals sometime carried from the mines there into all
the world as growing in the same. Vibius Sequester also saith that
Calabria was sometime called Britannia, Ob immensam affluentiam
totius delitiae atque vbertatis, that was to be found heerein.
Other contend that it should be written with P (Pritannia.) All
which opinions as I absolutelie denie not, so I willinglie leane
vnto none of them in peremptorie maner, sith the antiquitie of our
historie carrieth me withall vnto the former iudgements. And for
the same cause I reiect them also, which deriue the aforesaid
denomination from Britona the nymph, in following Textor (or Prutus
or Prytus the sonne of Araxa) which Britona was borne in Creta
daughter to Mars, and fled by sea from thence onelie to escape the
villanie of Minos, who attempted to rauish and make hir one of his
paramours: but if I should forsake the authoritie of Galfride, I
would rather leane to the report of Parthenius, whereof elsewhere
I haue made a more large rehersall.

It is altogither impertinent, to discusse whether Hercules came
into this Iland after the death of Albion, or not, although that
by an ancient monument seene of late, as I heare, and the cape of
Hartland or Harcland in the West countrie (called Promontorium
Herculis in old time) diuers of our British antiquaries doo gather
great likelihood that he should also be here. But sith his presence
or absence maketh nothing with the alteration of the name of this
our region and countrie, and to search out whether the said monument
was but some token erected in his honour of later times (as some
haue beene elsewhere, among the Celts framed, & those like an old
criple with a bow bent in one hand & a club in the other, a rough
skin on his backe, the haire of his head all to be matted like that
of the Irishmens, and drawing manie men captiue after him in chaines)
is but smallie auailable, and therefore I passe it ouer as not
incident to my purpose. Neither will I spend any time in the
determination, whether Britaine had beene sometime a parcell of
the maine, although it should well séeme so to haue beene, bicause
that before the generall floud of Noah, we doo not read of Ilands,
more than of hils and vallies. Wherfore as Wilden Arguis also noteth
in his philosophie and tractation of meteors, it is verie likelie
that they were onelie caused by the violent motion and working of
the sea, in the time of the floud, which if S. Augustine had well
considered, he would neuer haue asked how such creatures as liued
in Ilands far distant from the maine could come into the arke, De
ciuit. lib. 16. cap. 7. howbeit in the end he concludeth with
another matter more profitable than his demand.

As for the speedie and timelie inhabitation thereof, this is mine
opinion, to wit, that it was inhabited shortlie after the diuision
of the earth. For I read that when each capteine and his companie
had their portions assigned vnto them by Noah in the partition that
he made of the whole among his posteritie, they neuer ceased to
trauell and search out the vttermost parts of the same, vntill they
found out their bounds allotted, and had seene and vewed their
limits, euen vnto the verie poles. It shall suffice therefore onelie
to haue touched these things in this manner a farre off, and in
returning to our purpose, to proceed with the rest concerning the
[Sidenote: Yet _Timeus_, _Ephorus_, and some of the
Grecians, know the name Britannia, as appeareth also by
_Diodorus_, &c. before the comming of Cesar.]
denomination of our Iland, which was knowne vnto most of the Gréekes
for a long time, by none other name than Albion, and to saie the
truth, euen vnto Alexanders daies, as appeareth by the words of
Aristotle in his De mundo, and to the time of Ptolomie: notwithstanding
that Brute, as I haue said, had changed the same into Britaine,
manie hundred yeares before.

After Brutus I doo not find that anie men attempted to change it
againe, vntill the time that Theodosius, in the daies of Valentinianus
and Valens endeuoured, in the remembrance of the two aforesaid
Emperours, to call it Valentia, as Marcellinus saith. But as this
deuise tooke no hold among the common sort, so it retained still
the name of Britaine, vntill the reigne of Ecbert, who about the
800. yeare of Grace, and first of his reigne, gaue foorth an
especiall edict, dated at Winchester, that it should be called
Angles land, or Angel-landt, for which in our time we doo pronounce
it England. And this is all (right honorable) that I haue to say,
touching the seuerall names of this Iland, vtterlie misliking in
the meane season their deuises, which make Hengist the onlie parent
of the later denomination, whereas Ecbert, bicause his ancestours
descended from the Angles one of the sixe nations that came with
the Saxons into Britaine (for they were not all of one, but of
diuers countries, as Angles, Saxons, Germans, Switzers, Norwegiens,
Jutes otherwise called Jutons, Vites, Gothes or Getes, and Vandals,
and all comprehended vnder the name of Saxons, bicause of Hengist
the Saxon and his companie that first arriued here before anie of
the other) and therto hauing now the monarchie and preheminence in
[Sidenote: Of this opinion is _Belforest, lib. 3 cap. 44._]
maner of this whole Iland, called the same after the name of the
countrie from whence he derived his originall, neither Hengist,
neither anie Queene named Angla, neither whatsoeuer deriuation ab
Angulo, as from a corner of the world bearing swaie, or hauing
ought to doo at all in that behalfe.




WHAT SUNDRIE NATIONS HAUE DWELLED IN ALBION.

CAP. IV.


As few or no nations can iustlie boast themselues to haue continued
sithence their countrie was first replenished, without any mixture,
more or lesse, of forreine inhabitants; no more can this our Iland,
whose manifold commodities haue oft allured sundrie princes and
famous capteines of the world to conquer and subdue the same vnto
their owne subiection. Manie sorts of people therfore haue come in
hither and settled themselues here in this Ile, and first of all
[Sidenote: Samotheans.]
other, a parcell of the linage and posteritie of Japhet, brought
in by Samothes in the 1910. after the creation of Adam. Howbeit in
processe of time, and after they had indifferentlie replenished
and furnished this Iland with people (which was doone in the space
of 335. yeares) Albion the giant afore mentioned, repaired hither
with a companie of his owne race procéeding from Cham, and not
onelie annexed the same to his owne dominion, but brought all such
in like sort as he found here of the line of Japhet, into miserable
seruitude and most extreame thraldome. After him also, and within
[Sidenote: Britains.]
lesse than sixe hundred and two yeares, came Brute the sonne of
Syluius with a great traine of the posteritie of the dispersed
Troians in 324. ships: who rendering the like courtesie vnto the
[Sidenote: Chemminits.]
Chemminits as they had doone before unto the séed of Japhet, brought
them also wholie vnder his rule and gouernance, and dispossessing
the peeres & inferior owners of their lands and possessions, he
diuided the countrie among such princes and capteines as he in his
arriuall here had led out of Grecia with him.

[Sidenote: Romans.]
From hencefoorth I doo not find any sound report of other nation
whatsoeuer, that should aduenture hither to dwell, and alter the
state of the land, vntill the Romane emperours subdued it to their
dominion, sauing of a few Galles, (and those peraduenture of Belgie)
who first comming ouer to rob and pilfer vpon the coasts, did
afterward plant themselues for altogither neere vnto the shore,
and there builded sundrie cities and townes which they named after
those of the maine, from whence they came vnto vs. And this is not
onelie to be gathered out of Cesar where he writeth of Britaine of
set purpose, but also elsewhere, as in his second booke a little
after the beginning: for speaking of Deuiaticus king of the Swessions
liuing in his time, he affirmeth him not onelie to be the mightiest
prince of all the Galles, but also to hold vnder his subiection
the Ile of Britaine, of which his sonne Galba was afterward
dispossessed. But after the comming of the Romans, it is hard to
say with how manie sorts of people we were dailie pestered, almost
in euery steed. For as they planted their forworne legions in the
most fertile places of the realme, and where they might best lie
for the safegard of their conquests: so their armies did commonlie
consist of manie sorts of people, and were (as I may call them) a
confused mixture of all other countries and nations then liuing in
the world. Howbeit, I thinke it best, bicause they did all beare
the title of Romans, to reteine onelie that name for them all,
albeit they were wofull ghests to this our Iland: sith that with
them came all maner of vice and vicious liuing, all riot and excesse
of behauiour into our countrie, which their legions brought hither
from each corner of their dominions; for there was no prouince
vnder them from whence they had not seruitours.

[Sidenote: Scots.]
How and when the Scots, a people mixed of the Scithian and Spanish
[Sidenote: Picts.]
blood, should arriue here out of Ireland, & when the Picts should
come vnto vs out of Sarmatia, or from further toward the north &
the Scithian Hyperboreans, as yet it is vncerteine. For though the
Scotish histories doo carrie great countenance of their antiquitie
in this Iland: yet (to saie fréelie what I thinke) I iudge them
rather to haue stolne in hither within the space of 100. yeares
before Christ, than to haue continued here so long as they themselues
pretend, if my coniecture be any thing. Yet I denie not, but that
as the Picts were long planted in this Iland before the Scots
aduentured to settle themselues also in Britaine; so the Scots did
often aduenture hither to rob and steale out of Ireland, and were
finallie called in by the Meats or Picts (as the Romans named them,
because they painted their bodies) to helpe them against the
Britains, after the which they so planted themselues in these parts,
that vnto our time that portion of the land cannot be cleansed of
them. I find also that as these Scots were reputed for the most
Scithian-like and barbarous nation, and longest without letters;
so they vsed commonlie to steale ouer into Britaine in leather
skewes, and began to helpe the Picts about or not long before the
beginning of Cesars time. For both Diodorus lib. 6. and Strabo lib.
4. doo seeme to speake of a parcell of the Irish nation that should
inhabit Britaine in their time, which were giuen to the eating of
mans flesh, and therefore called Anthropophagi. Mamertinus in like
sort dooth note the Redshanks and the Irish (which are properlie
the Scots) to be the onelie enimies of our nation, before the
comming of Caesar, as appeareth in his panegyricall oration, so
that hereby it is found that they are no new ghestes in Britaine.
Wherefore all the controuersie dooth rest in the time of their
first attempt to inhabit in this Iland. Certeinlie I maruell much
whie they trauell not to come in with Cantaber and Partholonus:
but I see perfectlie that this shift should be too grosse for the
maintenance of their desired antiquitie. Now, as concerning their
name, the Saxons translated the word Scotus for Irish: whereby it
appeareth that those Irish, of whom Strabo and Diodorus doo speake,
are none other than those Scots, of whom Ierome speaketh Aduersus
Iouinianum, lib. 2. who vsed to feed on the buttocks of boies and
womens paps, as delicate dishes. Aethicus writing of the Ile of
Man, affirmeth it to be inhabited with Scots so well as Ireland
euen in his time. Which is another proofe that the Scots and Irish
are all one people. They were also called Scoti by the Romans,
bicause their Iland & originall inhabitation thereof were vnknowne,
and they themselues an obscure nation in the sight of all the world.
[Sidenote: Of the Picts.]
Now as concerning the Picts, whatsoeuer Ranulphus Hygden imagineth
to the contrarie of their latter enterance, it is easie to find by
Herodian and Mamertinus (of which the one calleth them Meates, the
other Redshankes and Pictones) that they were setled in this Ile
long before the time of Seuerus, yea of Caesar, and comming of the
Scots. Which is proofe sufficient, if no further authoritie remained
extant for the same. So that the controuersie lieth not in their
comming also, but in the true time of their repaire and aduenture
into this Iland out of the Orchades (out of which they gat ouer
into the North parts of our countrie, as the writers doo report)
and from whence they came at the first into the aforsaid Ilands.
For my part I suppose with other, that they came hither out of
Sarmatia or Scythia: for that nation hauing had alwaies an eie
vnto the commodities of our countrie, hath sent out manie companies
to inuade and spoile the same. It may be that some will gather,
those to be the Picts, of whom Caesar saith that they stained their
faces with wad and madder, to the end they might appeare terrible
and feareful to their enimies; and so inferre that the Picts were
naturall Britans. But it is one thing to staine the face onelie as
the Britans did, of whom Propertius saith,

  Nunc etiam infectos demum mutare Britannos,

And to paint the images and portraitures of beasts, fish and foules
ouer the whole bodie, as the Picts did, of whom Martial saith,

  Barbara depictis veni Bascauda Britannis.

Certes the times of Samothes and Albion, haue some likelie limitation;
and so we may gather of the comming in of Brute, of Caesar, the
Saxons, the Danes, the Normans, and finallie of the Flemmings, (who
had the Rosse in Wales assigned vnto them 1066. after the drowning
of their countrie.) But when first the Picts, & then the Scots
should come ouer into our Iland, as they were obscure people, so
the time of their arriuall is as far to me vnknowne. Wherefore the
resolution of this point must still remaine In tenebris. This
neuerthelesse is certeine, that Maximus first Legate of Britaine,
and afterward emperour, draue the Scots out of Britaine, and
compelled them to get habitation in Ireland, the out Iles, and the
North part of the maine, and finallie diuided their region betwéene
the Britaines and the Picts. He denounced warre also against the
Irishmen, for receiuing them into their land: but they crauing the
peace, yéelded to subscribe, that from thence-foorth they would
not receiue any Scot into their dominions; and so much the more,
for that they were pronounced enimies to the Romans, and disturbers
of the common peace and quietnesse of their prouinces here in
England.

The Saxons became first acquainted with this Ile, by meanes of the
piracie which they dailie practised vpon our coastes (after they
had once begun to aduenture themselues also vpon the seas, thereby
to seeke out more wealth than was now to be gotten in the West
parts of the maine, which they and their neighbours had alreadie
spoiled in most lamentable and barbarous maner) howbeit they neuer
durst presume to inhabit in this Iland, vntill they were sent for
by Vortiger to serue him in his warres against the Picts and Scots,
after that the Romans had giuen vs ouer, and left vs wholie to our
[Sidenote: The hurt by forren aid.]
owne defense and regiment. Being therefore come vnder Hengist in
three bottoms or kéeles, and in short time espieng the idle and
negligent behauiour of the Britaines, and fertilitie of our soile,
they were not a little inflamed to make a full conquest of such as
at the first they came to aid and succour. Herevpon also they fell
by little and little to the winding in of greater numbers of their
countrimen and neighbours, with their wiues and children into this
region, so that within a while these new comlings began to molest
the homelings, and ceased not from time to time to continue their
purpose, vntill they had gotten possession of the whole, or at the
leastwise the greatest part of our countrie; the Britons in the
meane season being driuen either into Wales and Cornewall, or
altogither out of the Iland to séeke new habitations.

[Sidenote: Danes.]
In like maner the Danes (the next nation that succéeded) came at
the first onelie to pilfer and robbe vpon the frontiers of our
Iland, till that in the end, being let in by the Welshmen or Britons
through an earnest desire to be reuenged vpon the Saxons, they no
lesse plagued the one than the other, their fréends than their
aduersaries, seeking by all meanes possible to establish themselues
also in the sure possession of Britaine. But such was their successe,
that they prospered not long in their deuise: for so great was
their lordlinesse, crueltie, and insatiable desire of riches, beside
their detestable abusing of chast matrons, and yoong virgins (whose
husbands and parents were dailie inforced to become their drudges
and slaues, whilest they sat at home and fed like drone bées of
the sweet of their trauell and labours) that God I say would not
suffer them to continue any while ouer vs, but when he saw his time
he remooued their yoke, and gaue vs liberty as it were to breath
vs, thereby to see whether this his sharpe scourge could haue mooued
vs to repentance and amendment of our lewd and sinfull liues, or
not. But when no signe thereof appeared in our hearts, he called
[Sidenote: The Normans.]
in an other nation to vex vs, I meane the Normans, a people mixed
with Danes, and of whom it is worthilie doubted, whether they were
more hard and cruell to our countrimen than the Danes, or more
heauie and intollerable to our Iland than the Saxons or the Romans.
This nation came out of Newstria, the people thereof were called
Normans by the French, bicause the Danes which subdued that region,
came out of the North parts of the world: neuerthelesse, I suppose
that the ancient word Newstria, is corrupted from West-rijc, bicause
that if you marke the situation, it lieth opposite from Austria or
Ost-rijc, which is called the East region, as Newstria is the Weast:
for Rijc in the old Scithian toong dooth signifie a region or
kingdome, as in Franc-rijc, or Franc-reich, Westsaxon-reich, Ost
saxon-reich, Su-rijc, Angel-rijc, &c, is else to be séene. But
howsoeuer this falleth out, these Normans or Danish French, were
dedlie aduersaries to the English Saxons, first by meane of a
quarell that grew betwéene them in the daies of Edward the Confessour,
at such time as the Earle of Bullen, and William Duke of Normandie,
arriued in this land to visit him, & their freends; such Normans
(I meane) as came ouer with him and Emma his mother before him, in
the time of Canutus and Ethelred. For the first footing that euer
the French did set in this Iland, sithence the time of Ethelbert
& Sigebert, was with Emma, which Ladie brought ouer a traine of
French Gentlemen and Ladies with hir into England.

[Sidenote: The cause of the conquest by the Normans.]
After hir also no small numbers of attendants came in with Edward
the Confessour, whome he preferred to the greatest offices in the
realme, in so much that one Robert a Norman, became Archbishop of
Canturburie, whose preferment so much enhanced the minds of the
French, on the one side, as their lordlie and outragious demeanour
kindled the stomachs of the English nobilitie against them on the
other: insomuch that not long before the death of Emma the kings
mother, and vpon occasion of the brall hapning at Douer (whereof
I haue made sufficient mention in my Chronologie, not regarding
the report of the French authors in this behalfe, who write altogither
in the fauour of their Archbishop Robert, but following the authoritie
of an English préest then liuing in the court) the English Peeres
began to shew their disliking in manifest maner. Neuerthelesse,
the Normans so bewitched the king with their lieng and bosting,
Robert the Archbishop being the chéefe instrument of their practise,
that he beléeued them, and therevpon vexed sundrie of the nobilitie,
amongst whom Earle Goodwijn of Kent was the chéefe, a noble Gentleman
and father in law to king Edward by the mariage of his daughter.
The matter also came to such issue against him, that he was exiled,
and fiue of his sonnes with him, wherevpon he goeth ouer the sea,
and soone after returning with his said sonnes, they inuaded the
land in sundrie places, the father himselfe comming to London,
where when the kings power was readie to ioine with him in battell,
it vtterlie refused so to doo: affirming plainelie, that it should
be méere follie for one Englishman to fight against another, in
the reuenge of Frenchmens quarels: which answer entred so déeplie
into the kings mind, that he was contented to haue the matter heard,
and appointing commissioners for that purpose; they concluded at
the vpshot, that all the French should depart out of England by a
[Sidenote: Archbishop of Can. exiled, and the rest of the French.]
day, few excepted, whom the king should appoint and nominate. By
this means therfore Robert the Archbishop, & of secret counsell
with the king, was first exiled as principall abuser & seducer of
the king, who goeth to Rome, & there complaineth to the Pope or
his iniurie receiued by the English. Howbeit as he returned home
againe with no small hope of the readeption of his See, he died in
Normandie, whereby he saued a killing. Certes he was the first that
euer tendered complaint out of England vnto Rome, & with him went
William Bishop of London (afterward reuoked) and Vlfo of Lincolne,
who hardlie escaped the furie of the English nobilitie. Some also
went into Scotland, and there held themselues, expecting a better
time. And this is the true historie of the originall cause of the
conquest of England by the French: for after they were well beaten
at Douer, bicause of their insolent demeanour there shewed, their
harts neuer ceased to boile with a desire of reuenge that brake
out into a flame, so soone as their Robert possessed the primacie,
which being once obteined, and to set his mischéefe intended abroch
withall, a contention was quicklie procured about certeine Kentish
lands, and controuersie kindled, whether he or the Earle should
[Sidenote: Erle Goodwine slandered by the French writers.]
haue most right vnto them. The king held with the priest as with
the church, the nobilitie with the Earle. In processe also of this
businesse, the Archbishop accused the Earle of high treason,
burdening him with the slaughter of Alfred the kings brother, which
was altogither false: as appeareth by a treatise yet extant of that
matter, written by a chaplaine to king Edward the Confessour, in
the hands of John Stow my verie fréend, wherein he saith thus,
"Alfredus incautè agens in aduentu suo in Angliam a Danis circumuentus
occiditur." He addeth moreouer, that giuing out as he came through
the countrie accompanied with his few proud Normans, how his meaning
was to recouer his right vnto the kingdome, and supposing that all
men would haue yéelded vnto him, he fell into their hands, whome
Harald then king did send to apprehend him, vpon the fame onelie
of this report brought vnto his eares. So that (to be short) after
the king had made his pacification with the Earle, the French (I
say) were exiled, the Quéene restored to his fauour (whom he at
the beginning of this broile had imprisoned at Wilton, allowing
hir but one onlie maid to wait upon hir) and the land reduced to
hir former quietnesse, which continued vntill the death of the
king. After which the Normans not forgetting their old grudge,
remembred still their quarell, that in the end turned to their
conquest of this Iland. After which obteined, they were so cruellie
bent to our vtter subuersion and ouerthrow, that in the beginning
[Sidenote: The miserie of the English vnder the French.]
it was lesse reproch to be accounted a slaue than an Englishman,
or a drudge in anie filthie businesse than a Britaine: insomuch
that euerie French page was superiour to the greatest Peere; and
the losse of an Englishmans life but a pastime to such of them as
contended in their brauerie, who should giue the greatest strokes
or wounds vnto their bodies, when their toiling and drudgerie could
not please them, or satisfie their gréedie humors. Yet such was
our lot in those daies by the diuine appointed order, that we must
needs obey such as the Lord did set ouer vs, and so much the rather,
for that all power to resist was vtterlie taken from vs, and our
armes made so weake and feeble that they were not now able to
[Sidenote: The cause of our miserie.]
remooue the importable load of the enimie from our surburdened
shoulders. And this onelie I saie againe, bicause we refused grace
offered in time, and would not heare when God by his Preachers did
call vs so fauourablie vnto him. Oh how miserable was the estate
of our countrie vnder the French and Normans, wherein the Brittish
and English that remained, could not be called to any function in
the commonwealth, no not so much as to be constables and headburowes
in small villages, except they could bring 2. or 3. Normans for
suerties to the Lords of the soile for their good behauiour in
their offices! Oh what numbers of all degrées of English and Brittish
were made slaues and bondmen, and bought and sold as oxen in open
market! In so much that at the first comming, the French bond were
set free; and those that afterward became bond, were of our owne
countrie and nation, so that few or rather none of vs remained free
without some note of bondage and seruitude to the French. Hereby
then we perceiue, how from time to time this Iland hath not onelie
béene a prey, but as it were a common receptacle for strangers,
the naturall homelings or Britons being still cut shorter and
shorter, as I said before, till in the end they came not onelie to
be driuen into a corner of this region, but in time also verie like
vtterlie to haue beene extinguished. For had not king Edward,
[Sidenote: In this voiage the said Harald builded Portaschith, which
Caradoch ap Griffin afterward ouerthrew, and killed the garrison that
Harald left therein.]
surnamed the saint, in his time, after greeuous wars made vpon them
1063. (wherein Harald latelie made Earle of Oxenford, sonne to
Goodwin Earle of Kent, and after king of England, was his generall)
permitted the remnant of their women to ioine in mariage with the
Englishmen (when the most part of their husbands and male children
were slaine with the sword) it could not haue béene otherwise
chosen, but their whole race must néeds haue susteined the vttermost
confusion, and thereby the memorie of the Britons vtterlie haue
perished among vs.

Thus we see how England hath six times beene subiect to the reproch
of conquest. And wheras the Scots séeme to challenge manie famous
victories also ouer us, beside gréeuous impositions, tributs, &
dishonorable compositions: it shall suffice for answer, that they
deale in this as in the most part of their historie, which is to
seeke great honor by lieng, & great renowme by prating and craking.
Indeed they haue doone great mischéefe in this Iland, & with extreme
crueltie; but as for any conquest the first is yet to heare of.
Diuers other conquests also haue béene pretended by sundrie princes
sithence the conquest, onelie to the end that all pristinate lawes
and tenures of possession might cease, and they make a new disposition
of all things at their owne pleasure. As one by king Edw. the 3.
but it tooke none effect. Another by Henrie the 4. who neuerthelesse
was at the last though hardlie drawne from the challenge by William
Thorington, then cheefe Justice of England. The third by Henrie
the 7. who had some better shew of right, but yet without effect.
And the last of all by Q. Marie, as some of the papists gaue out,
and also would haue had hir to haue obteined, but God also staied
their malices, and hir challenge. But beside the six afore mentioned,
Huntingdon the old historiographer speaketh of a seuenth, likelie
(as he saith) to come one daie out of the North, which is a wind
that bloweth no man to good, sith nothing is to be had in those
parts, but hunger & much cold. Sée more hereof in the historie of
S. Albons, and aforsaid author which lieth on the left side of the
librarie belonging now to Paules: for I regard no prophesies as
one that doubteth from what spirit they doo procéed, or who should
be the author of them.




WHETHER IT BE LIKELIE THAT ANY GIANTS WERE, AND WHETHER THEY
INHABITED IN THIS ILE OR NOT.

CAP. V.


Besides these aforesaid nations, which hane crept (as you haue
heard) into our Iland, we read of sundrie giants that should inhabit
here. Which report as it is not altogither incredible, sith the
posterities of diuers princes were called by the name: so vnto some
mens eares it seemeth so strange a rehersall, that for the same
onelie cause they suspect the credit of our whole historie, & reiect
it as a fable, vnworthie to be read. They also condemne the like
in all other histories, especiallie of the North, where men are
naturallie of greatest stature, imagining all to be but fables that
is written of Starcater, Hartben, Angrine, Aruerode, &c: of whom
Saxo, Johannes Magnus and Olaus doo make mention, & whose bones
doo yet remaine to be seene as rare miracles in nature. Of these
also some in their life time were able to lift vp (as they write)
a vessell of liquor of 1000. weight, or an horsse, or an oxe, &
cast it on their shoulders (wherein their verie women haue beene
likewise knowne to come néere vnto them) and of the race of those
men, some were séene of no lesse strength in the 1500. of Grace,
wherein Olaus liued, and wrote the same of his owne experience and
knowledge. Of the giant of Spaine that died of late yeares by a
fall vpon the Alpes, as he either went or came fro Rome, about the
purchase of a dispensation to marrie with his kinswoman (a woman
also of much more than common stature) there be men yet liuing,
and may liue long for age, that can saie verie much euen by their
owne knowledge. Wherfore it appeareth by present experience, that
all is not absolutelie vntrue which is remembred of men of such
giants. For this cause therfore I haue now taken vpon me to make
this breefe discourse insuing, as indeuouring therby to prooue,
that the opinion of giants is not altogither grounded vpon vaine
and fabulous narrations, inuented onelie to delight the eares of
the hearers with the report of maruellous things: but that there
haue beene such men in deed, as for their hugenesse of person haue
[Sidenote *: _Esay. 30. vers. 25._*]
resembled rather[*] high towers than mortall men, although their
posterities are now consumed, and their monstruous races vtterlie
worne out of knowledge.

I doo not meane herein to dispute, whether this name Gigas or
Nephilim was giuen vnto them, rather for their tyrannie and oppression
of the people, than for their greatnesse of bodie, or large steps,
as Goropius would haue it (for he denieth that euer men were greater
than at this present) or bicause their parents were not knowne,
for such in old time were called Terrae filij; or whether the word
Gigas dooth onlie signifie Indigenas, or homelings, borne in the
land or not; neither whether all men were of like quantitie in
stature, and farre more greater in old time, than now they be: and
yet absolutelie I denie neither of these, sith verie probable
reasons may be brought for ech of them, but especiallie the last
rehearsed, whose confirmation dependeth vpon the authorities of
sundrie ancient writers, who make diuers of noble race, equall to
the giants in strength and manhood, and yet doo not giue the same
name vnto them, bicause their quarels were iust, and commonlie
[Sidenote: Antheus.]
[Sidenote: _Lucane lib. 4 in fine._]
taken in hand for defense of the oppressed. Examples hereof we may
take of Hercules and Antheus, whose wrestling declareth that they
were equall in stature & stomach. Such also was the courage of
Antheus, that being often ouercome, and as it were vtterlie vanquished
by the said Hercules, yet if he did eftsoones returne againe into
his kingdome, he forthwith recouered his force, returned and held
Hercules tacke, till he gat at the last betwéene him and home, so
cutting off the farther hope of the restitution of his armie, and
killing finallie his aduersarie in the field, of which victorie
Politian writeth thus:

  Incaluere animis dura certare palaestra,
    Neptuni quondàm filius atque Iouis:
  Non certamen erant operoso ex aere lebetes,
    Sed qui vel vitam vel ferat interitum:
  Occidit Antaeus Ioue natum viuere fas est,
    Estq; magistra Pales Graecia, non Lybia.

[Sidenote: Corineus.]
[Sidenote: Gomagot.]
The like doo our histories report of Corineus and Gomagot, peraduenture
king of this Ile, who fought a combat hand to hand, till one of
them was slaine, and yet for all this no man reputeth Hercules or
Corineus for giants, albeit that Hanuile in his Architrenion make
the later to be 12. cubits in height, which is full 18. foot, if
poeticall licence doo not take place in his report and assertion.
But sith (I say againe) it is not my purpose to stand vpon these
points, I passe ouer to speake any more of them. And whereas also
I might haue proceeded in such order, that I should first set downe
by manie circumstances, whether any giants were, then whether they
were of such huge and incredible stature as the authours doo
remember, and finallie whether any of them haue beene in this our
Iland or not, I protest plainlie, that my mind is not here bent to
deale in any such maner, but rather generallie to confirme and by
sufficient authoritie, that there haue beene such mightie men of
stature, and some of them also in Britaine, which I will set downe
onelie by sundrie examples, whereby it shall fall out, that neither
our Iland, nor any part of the maine, haue at one time or other
béen altogither without them. First of all therfore, & to begin
with the scriptures, the most sure & certeine ground of all knowledge:
you shall haue out of them such notable examples set downe, as I
haue obserued in reading the same, which vnto the godlie may suffice
for sufficient proofe of my position. Neuerthelesse, after the
scriptures I will resort to the writings of our learned Diuines,
and finallie of the infidell and pagane authors, whereby nothing
shall seeme to want that may confute Goropius, and all his
cauillations.

[Sidenote: _Cap. 6. vers. 5._]
Moses the prophet of the Lord, writing of the estate of things
before the floud, hath these words in his booke of generations. In
[Sidenote: _Anti. li. 1._]
these daies saith he, there were giants vpon the earth. Berosus
also the Chalde writeth, that néere vnto Libanus there was a citie
called Oenon (which I take to be Hanoch, builded sometime by Cham)
wherein giants did inhabit, who trusting to the strength and
hugenesse of their bodies, did verie great oppression and mischeefe
in the world. The Hebrues called them generallie Enach, of Hanach
the Chebronite, father to Achimam, Scheschai and Talma, although
their first originall was deriued from Henoch the sonne of Caine,
of whome that pestilent race descended, as I read. The Moabits
named them Emims, and the Ammonites Zamsummims, and it should seeme
by the second of Deut. cap. 19, 20. that Ammon and Moab were
greatlie replenished with such men, when Moses wrote that treatise.
For of these monsters some families remained of greater stature
[Sidenote: _Nu. chp. 13. verse 33, & 34._]
than other vnto his daies, in comparison of whome the children of
Israell confessed themselues to be but grashoppers. Which is one
noble testimonie that the word Gigas or Enach is so well taken for
a man of huge stature, as for an homeborne child, wicked tyrant,
or oppresseur of the people.

[Sidenote: _Deut. 3. vers. 11._]
[Sidenote: Og of Basan.]
Furthermore, there is mention made also in the scriptures of Og,
sometime king of Basan, who was the last of the race of the giants,
that was left in the land of promise to be ouercome by the Israelits,
& whose iron bed was afterward shewed for a woonder at Rabbath (a
citie of the Ammonites) conteining 9. cubits in length, and 4. in
bredth, which cubits I take not to be geometricall, (that is, each
one so great as six of the smaller, as those were wherof the Arke
was made, as our Diuines affirme, especiallie Augustine: whereas
Origen, hom. 2. in Gen. out of whom he seemeth to borrow it,
appeareth to haue no such meaning directlie) but rather of the arme
of a meane man, which oftentimes dooth varie & differ from the
standard. Oh how Goropius dalieth about the historie of this Og,
of the breaking of his pate against the beds head, & of hurting
his ribs against the sides, and all to prooue, that Og was not
bigger than other men, and so he leaueth the matter as sufficientlie
answered with a French countenance of truth. But see August. de
ciuit. lib. 15. cap. 25. & ad Faustum Manich. lib. 12. Ambros.
&c. and Johannes Buteo that excellent geometrician, who hath written
of purpose of the capacitie of the Arke.

[Sidenote: _Cap. 17. ver. 4, 5, 6._]
[Sidenote: Goliah.]
In the first of Samuel you shall read of Goliah a Philistine, the
weight of whose brigandine or shirt of maile was of 5000. sicles,
or 1250. ounces of brasse, which amounteth to 104. pound of Troie
weight after 4. common sicles to the ounce. The head of his speare
came vnto ten pound English or 600. sicles of that metall. His
height also was measured at six cubits and an hand bredth. All
which doo import that he was a notable giant, and a man of great
stature & strength to weare such an armour, and beweld so heauie
a lance. But Goropius thinking himselfe still to haue Og in hand,
and indeuouring to extenuate the fulnesse of the letter to his
vttermost power, dooth neuerthelesse earnestlie affirme, that he
was not aboue three foot more than the common sort of men, or two
foot higher than Saule: and so he leaueth it as determined.

[Sidenote: _Cap. 21. ver. 16, 17, &c._]
In the second of Samuel, I find report of foure giants borne in
Geth; of which Ishbenob the first, that would haue killed Dauid,
had a speare, whose head weighed the iust halfe of that of Goliath:
the second called Siphai, Sippai or Saph, 1. Par. 20. was nothing
inferiour to the first: the third hight also Goliah, the staffe of
whose speare was like vnto the beame of a weauers loome, neuerthelesse
he was slaine in the second battell in Gob by Elhanan, as the first
was by Abisai Ioabs brother, and the second by Elhanan. The fourth
brother (for they were all brethren) was slaine at Gath by Ionathan
nephew to Dauid, and he was not onlie huge of personage, but also
of disfigured forme, for he had 24. fingers and toes. Wherby it is
euident, that the generation of giants was not extinguished in
Palestine, vntill the time of Dauid, which was 2890. after the
floud, nor vtterlie consumed in Og, as some of our expositors would
haue it.

Now to come vnto our christian writers. For though the authorities
alreadie alleged out of the word, are sufficient to confirme my
purpose at the full; yet will I not let to set downe such other
notes as experience hath reuealed, onelie to the end that the reader
shall not thinke the name of giants, with their quantities, and
other circumstances, mentioned in the scriptures, rather to haue
some mysticall interpretation depending vpon them, than that the
sense of the text in this behalfe is to be taken simplie as it
[Sidenote: _De ciuitate Dei lib. 15. cap. 9._]
speaketh. And first of all to omit that which Tertullian Lib. 2.
de resurrect. saith; S. Augustine noteth, how he with other saw
the tooth of a man, wherof he tooke good aduisement, and pronounced
in the end that it would would haue made 100. of his owne, or anie
[Sidenote: _Iohannes Boccacius._]
other mans that liued in his time. The like hereof also dooth Iohn
Boccace set downe, in the 68. chapter of his 4. booke, saieng that
in the caue of a mountaine, not far from Drepanum (a towne of
Sicilia called Eryx as he gesseth) the bodie of an exceeding high
giant was discouered, thrée of whose teeth did weigh 100. ounces,
which being conuerted into English poise, doth yeeld eight pound
and foure ounces, after twelue ounces to the pound, that is 33.
ounces euerie tooth.

He addeth farther, that the forepart of his scull was able to
conteine manie bushels of wheat, and by the proportion of the bone
[Sidenote: A carcase discouered of 200. cubits.]
of his thigh, the Symmetricians iudged his bodie to be aboue 200.
cubits. Those teeth, scull, and bones, were (and as I thinke yet
are, for ought I know to the contrarie) to be seene in the church
of Drepanum in perpetuall memorie of his greatnesse, whose bodie
was found vpon this occasion. As some digged in the earth to laie
the foundation of an house, the miners happened vpon a great vault,
not farre from Drepanum: whereinto when they were entred, they
saw the huge bodie of a man sitting in the caue, of whose greatnesse
they were so afraid, that they ranne awaie, and made an outcrie in
the citie, how there sat a man in such a place, so great as an
hill: the people hearing the newes, ran out with clubs and weapons,
as if they should haue gone vnto a foughten field, and 300. of
them entring into the caue, they foorthwith saw that he was dead,
and yet sat as if he had been aliue, hauing a staffe in his hand,
compared by mine author vnto the mast of a tall ship, which being
touched fell by and by to dust, sauing the nether end betwéene his
hand and the ground, whose hollownesse was filled with 1500. pound
weight of lead, to beare vp his arme that it should not fall in
péeces: neuerthelesse, his bodie also being touched fell likewise
into dust, sauing three of his aforesaid teeth, the forepart of
his scull, and one of his thigh bones, which are reserued to be
séene of such as will hardlie beleeue these reports.

In the histories of Brabant I read of a giant found, whose bones
were 17. or 18. cubits in length, but Goropius, as his maner is,
denieth them to be the bones of a man, affirming rather that they
were the bones of an elephant, because they somwhat resembled those
of two such beasts which were found at the making of the famous
ditch betwéene Bruxels and Machlin. As though there were anie
precise resemblance betwéene the bones of a man and of an elephant,
or that there had euer béene any elephant of 27. foot in length.
But sée his demeanour. In the end he granteth that another bodie
was found vpon the shore of Rhodanus, of thirtie foot in length.
Which somewhat staieth his iudgement, but not altogither remooueth
his error.

[Sidenote: _Mat. Westmon._]
The bodie of Pallas was found in Italie, in the yeare of Grace
1038. and being measured it conteined twentie foot in length, this
Pallas was companion with Aeneas.

[Sidenote: _Iohannes Leland._]
[Sidenote: _Maficus, lib. 14._]
[Sidenote: _Triuet._]
[Sidenote: _Mat. West._]
There was a carcase also laid bare 1170. in England vpon the shore
(where the beating of the sea had washed awaie the earth from the
stone wherein it laie) and when it was taken vp it conteined 50.
foot in measure, as our histories doo report. The like was seene
before in Wales, in the yeare 1087. of another of 14. foot.

In Perth moreouer a village in Scotland another was taken vp, which
to this daie they shew in a church, vnder the name of little John
[Sidenote: _Hector Boet._]
(per Antiphrasin) being also 14. foot in length, as diuerse doo
affirme which haue beholden the same, and whereof Hector Boetius
dooth saie, that he did put his whole arme into one of the hanch
bones: which is worthie to be remembred.

In the yeare of Grace 1475. the bodie of Tulliola the daughter of
Cicero was taken vp, & found higher by not a few foot than the
common sort of women liuing in those daies.

[Sidenote: _Geruasius Tilberiensis._]
Geruasius Tilberiensis, head Marshall to the king of Arles writeth
in his Chronicle dedicated to Otho 4. how that at Isoretum, in the
suburbes of Paris, he saw the bodie of a man that was twentie foot
long, beside the head and the necke, which was missing & not found,
the owner hauing peraduenture béene beheaded for some notable
trespasse committed in times past, or (as he saith) killed by S.
William.

The Greeke writers make mention of Andronicus their emperour, who
liued 1183. of Grace, and was ten foot in height, that is, thrée
foot higher than the Dutch man that shewed himselfe in manie places
of England, 1582. this man maried Anna daughter to Lewis of France
(before assured to Alexius, whome he strangled, dismembred and
drowned in the sea) the ladie not being aboue eleuen yeares of age,
whereas he was an old dotard, and beside hir he kept Marpaca a fine
harlot, who ruled him as she listed.

Zonaras speaketh of a woman that liued in the daies of Justine,
who being borne in Cilicia, and of verie comelie personage, was
neuerthelesse almost two foot taller than the tallest woman of hir
time.

[Sidenote: _Sir Thomas Eliot._]
A carcase was taken vp at Iuie church neere Salisburie but of late
yeares to speake of, almost fourtéene foot long, in Dictionario
Eliotae.

[Sidenote: _Leland in Combrit._]
In Gillesland in Come Whitton paroche not far from the chappell of
the Moore, six miles by east from Carleill, a coffin of stone was
found, and therein the bones of a man, of more than incredible
greatnes. In like sort Leland speaketh of another found in the Ile
called Alderney, whereof you shall read more in the chapiter of
our Ilands.

[Sidenote: _Richard Grafton._]
Richard Grafton in his Manuell telleth of one whose shinbone
conteined six foot, and thereto his scull so great that it was able
to receiue fiue pecks of wheat. Wherefore by coniecturall symmetrie
of these parts, his bodie must needs be of 24. foot, or rather
[Sidenote: The Symmetrie or proportion of the bodie of a comelie man.]
more, if it were diligentlie measured. For the proportion of a
comelie and well featured bodie, answereth 9. times to the length
of the face, taken at large from the pitch of the crowne to the
chin, as the whole length is from the same place vnto the sole of
the foot, measured by an imagined line, and seuered into so manie
parts by like ouerthwart draughts, as Drurerus in his lineall
description of mans bodie doth deliuer. Neuertheles, this symmetrie
is not taken by other than the well proportioned face, for Recta,
orbiculata (or fornicata) prona, resupinata, and lacunata (or
repanda) doo so far degenerate from the true proportion as from
the forme and beautie of the comelie. Hereby also they make the
face taken in strict maner, to be the tenth part of the whole bodie,
that is, from the highest part of the forehead to the pitch of the
chin, so that in the vse of the word face there is a difference,
wherby the 9. part is taken (I say) from the crowne (called Vertex,
because the haire there turneth into a circle) so that if the space
by a rule were truelie taken, I meane from the crowne or highest
part of the head to the pitch of the nether chap, and multiplied
by nine, the length of the whole bodie would easilie appeare, &
shew it selfe at the full. In like maner I find, that from the
elbow to the top of the midle finger is the 4. part of the whole
length, called a cubit: from the wrist to the top of the same
finger, a tenth part: the length of the shinbone to the ancle a
fourth part (and all one with the cubit:) from the top of the finger
to the third ioint, two third parts of the face from the top of
the forehead. Which obseruations I willinglie remember in this
place, to the end that if anie such carcases happen to be found
hereafter, it shall not be hard by some of these bones here mentioned,
to come by the stature of the whole bodie, in certeine & exact
maner. As for the rest of the bones, ioints, parts, &c: you may
resort to Drurerus, Cardan, and other writers, sith the farther
deliuerie of them concerneth not my purpose. To proceed therefore
[Sidenote: _Syluester Gyraldus._]
with other examples, I read that the bodie of king Arthur being
found in the yeare 1189. was two foot higher than anie man that
came to behold the same. Finallie the carcase of William Conqueror
[Sidenote: _Constans fama Gallorum._]
was séene not manie yeares since (to wit, 1542.) in the citie of
Cane, twelue inches longer, by the iudgment of such as saw it, than
anie man which dwelled in the countrie. All which testimonies I
note togither, bicause they proceed from Christian writers, from
whome nothing should be farther or more distant, than of set purpose
to lie, and feed the world with fables.

In our times also, and whilest Francis the first reigned ouer
France, there was a man séene in Aquiteine, whome the king being
in those parties made of his gard, whose height was such, that a
man of common heigth might easilie go vnder his twist without
stooping, a stature incredible. Moreouer Casanion, a writer of our
[Sidenote: Briat.]
time, telleth of the bones of Briat a giant found of late in
Delphinois, of 15. cubits, the diameter of whose scull was two
cubits, and the breadth of his shoulders foure, as he himselfe
beheld in the late second wars of France, & wherevnto the report
of Ioan Marius made in his bookes De Galliarum illustrationibus,
where he writeth of the carcase of the same giant found not farre
from the Rhodanus, which was 22. foot long, from the scull to the
sole of the feet, dooth yéeld sufficient testimonie. Also Calameus
in his commentaries De Biturigibus, confirmeth no lesse, adding
that he was found 1556. & so dooth Baptista Fulgosus, lib. 1. cap.
6. saieng farther, that his graue was seene not farre from Valentia,
and discouered by the violence and current of the Rhodanus. The
said Casanion in like sort speaketh of the bones of a man which he
beheld, one of whose téeth was a foot long, and eight pound in
weight. Also of the sepulchre of another neere vnto Charmes castell,
which was nine paces in length, things incredible to vs, if eiesight
did not confirme it in our owne times, and these carcases were not
reserued by the verie prouidence of God, to the end we might behold
his works, and by these relikes vnderstand, that such men were in
old time in deed, of whose statures we now begin to doubt. Now to
say somwhat also of mine owne knowledge, there is the thigh-bone
of a man to be séene in the church of S. Laurence néere Guildhall
in London, which in time past was 26. inches in length, but now it
beginneth to decaie, so that it is shorter by foure inches than it
was in the time of king Edward. Another also is to be seene in
Aldermarie burie, of some called Aldermanburie, of 32. inches and
rather more, whereof the symmetrie hath beene taken by some skilfull
in that practise, and an image made according to that proportion,
which is fixt in the east end of the cloister of the same church,
not farre from the said bone, and sheweth the person of a man full
ten or eleuen foot high, which as some say was found in the cloister
of Poules, that was neere to the librarie, at such time as the Duke
of Somerset did pull it downe to the verie foundation, and carried
the stones thereof to the Strand, where he did build his house.
These two bones haue I séene, beside other, whereof at the beholding
I tooke no great heed, bicause I minded not as then to haue had
any such vse of their proportions, and therefore I will speake no
more of them: this is sufficient for my purpose that is deliuered
out of the christian authors.

Now it resteth furthermore that I set downe, what I haue read therof
in Pagane writers, who had alwaies great regard of their credit,
and so ought all men that dedicate any thing vnto posteritie, least
in going about otherwise to reape renowne and praise, they doo
procure vnto themselues in the end nothing else but meere contempt
and infamie. For my part I will touch rare things, and such as to
my selfe doo séeme almost incredible: howbeit as I find them, so
I note them, requiring your Honour in reading hereof, to let euerie
Author beare his owne burden, and euerie oxe his bundle.

[Sidenote: _In vita Sertorij de Antheo._]
Plutarch telleth how Sertorius being in Lybia, néere to the streicts
of Maroco, to wit, at Tingi (or Tanger in Mauritania, as it is now
called) caused the sepulchre of Antheus, afore remembred to be
opened: for hearing by common report that the said giant laie buried
there, whose corps was fiftie cubits long at the least, he was so
far off from crediting the same, that he would not beleeue it,
vntill he saw the coffin open wherein the bones of the aforesaid
prince did rest. To be short therefore, he caused his souldiers to
cast downe the hill made sometime ouer the tombe, and finding the
bodie in the bottome coffined in stone, after the measure therof
taken, he saw it manifestlie to be 60. cubits in length, which were
ten more than the people made accompt of, which Strabo also
confirmeth.

Pausanias reporteth out of one Miso, that when the bodie of Aiax
was found, the whirlebone of his knée was adiudged so broad as a
pretie dish: also that the bodie of Asterius somtime king of Creta
was ten cubits long, and that of Hyllus or Gerion no lesse maruelous
than the rest, all which Goropius still condemneth to be the bones
of monsters of the sea (notwithstanding the manifest formes of
their bones, epitaphes, and inscriptions found ingrauen in brasse
and lead with them in their sepulchres) so far is he from being
persuaded and led from his opinion.

[Sidenote: _Philostrate._]
Philostrate in Heroicis saith, how he saw the bodie of a giant
thirtie cubits in length, also the carcase of another of two and
twentie, and the third of twelue.

Liuie in the seauenth of his first decade, speaketh of an huge
person which made a challenge as he stood at the end of the Anien
bridge, against any Romane that would come out and fight with him,
whose stature was not much inferiour to that of Golias, of Artaches
(of whome Herodot speaketh in the historie of Xerxes) who was sixe
common cubits of stature which make but fiue of the kings standard,
bicause this is longer by thrée fingers than the other. Of Pusio,
Secundilla, & Cabaras, of which the first two liuing vnder Augustus
were aboue ten foot, and the later vnder Claudius of full nine,
and all remembred by Plinie; of Eleazar a Jew, of whome Iosephus
saith, that he was sent to Tiberius, and a person of heigth fiue
cubits; of another of whom Nicephorus maketh mention lib. 12. cap.
13. Hist. eccles. of fiue cubits and an handfull, I say nothing,
bicause Casanion of Mutterell hath alredie sufficientlie discoursed
vpon these examples in his De gigantibus, which as I gesse he hath
written of set purpose against Goropius, who in his Gigantomachia,
supposeth himselfe to haue killed all the giants in the world, and
like a new Iupiter Alterum carcasse Herculem, as the said Casanion
dooth merilie charge and vpbraid him.

[Sidenote: _Lib. 7._]
Plinie telleth of an earthquake at Creta, which discouered the body
of a giant, that was 46. cubits in length after the Romane standard,
and by diuerse supposed to be the bodie of Orion or Aetion.
Neuerthelesse I read, that Lucius Flaccus and Metellus did sweare
Per sua capita, that it was either the carcase of some monster of
the sea, or a forged deuise to bleare the peoples eies withall,
wherein it is wonderfull to see, how they please Goropius as one
that first deriued his fantasticall imagination from their asseueration
& oth. The said Plinie also addeth that the bodie of Orestes was
seuen cubits in length, one Gabbara of Arabia nine foot nine inches,
and two reserued In conditorio Sallustianorum halfe a foot longer
than Gabbara was, for which I neuer read that anie man was driuen
to sweare.

[Sidenote: _Trallanius._]
Trallianus writeth how the Athenienses digging on a time in the
ground, to laie the foundation of a new wall to be made in a certeine
Iland in the daies of an emperour, did find the bones of Macrosyris
in a coffin of hard stone, of 100. cubits in length after the
accompt of the Romane cubit, which was then either a foot and a
halfe, or not much in difference from halfe a yard of our measure
now in England. These verses also, as they are now translated out
of Gréeke were found withall,

  Sepultus ego Macrosyris in longa insula
  Vitae peractis annis mille quinquies:

which amounteth to 81. yeares foure moneths, after the Aegyptian
reckoning.

In the time of Hadrian the emperour, the bodie of the giant Ida
was taken vp at Messana, conteining 20. foot in length, and hauing
a double row of teeth, yet standing whole in his chaps. Eumachus
also in Perigesi, telleth that when the Carthaginenses went about
to dich in their prouince, they found two bodies in seuerall coffins
of stone, the one was 23. the other 24. cubits in length, such
another was found in Bosphoro Cymmerio after an earthquake, but
the inhabitants did cast those bones into the Meotidan marris. In
Dalmatia, manie graues were shaken open with an earthquake, in
diuers of which certeine carcases were found, whose ribs conteined
16. els, after the Romane measure, whereby the whole bodies were
iudged to be 64. sith the longest rib is commonlie about the fourth
part of a man, as some rouing symmetricians affirme.

Arrhianus saith, that in the time of Alexander the bodies of the
Asianes were generallie of huge stature, and commonlie of fiue
cubits, and such was the heigth of Porus of Inde, whom the said
Alexander vanquished and ouerthrew in battell.

Suidas speaketh of Ganges, killed also by the said prince, who
farre exceeded Porus; for he was ten cubits long. What should I
speake of Artaceas a capitaine in the host of Xerxes, afore remembred,
whose heigth was within 4. fingers bredth of fiue cubits, & the
tallest man in the armie except the king himselfe. Herod. lib.7.
Of Athanatus whom Plinie remembreth I saie nothing. But of all
these, this one example shall passe, which I doo read of in
Trallianus, and he setteth downe in forme and manner following.

In the daies of Tiberius th'emperor saith he, a corps was left bare
or laid open after an earthquake, of which ech tooth (taken one
[Sidenote: A mouth of sixteene foot wide.]
with another) conteined 12. inches ouer at the least. least. Now
forsomuch as in such as be full mouthed, ech chap hath commonlie
16. teeth at the least, which amount vnto 32. in the whole, needs
must the widenesse of this mans chaps be welneere of 16. foot, and
the opening of his lips fiue at the least. A large mouth in mine
opinion, and not to eat peason with Ladies of my time, besides that
if occasion serued, it was able to receiue the whole bodies of mo
than one of the greatest men, I meane of such as we be in our daies.
When this carcase was thus found, euerie man maruelled at it, &
[Sidenote: A counterfect made of a monstrous carcase by one tooth
taken out of the head.]
good cause why. A messenger was sent to Tiberius the emperour also
to know his pleasure, whether he would haue the same brought ouer
vnto Rome or not, but he forbad them, willing his Legate not to
remooue the dead out of his resting place, but rather somewhat to
satisfie his phantasie to send him a tooth out of his head, which
being done, he gaue it to a cunning workeman, commanding him to
shape a carcase of light matter, after the proportion of the tooth,
that at the least by such means he might satisfie his curious mind,
[Sidenote: This man was more fauorable to this monster than our
papists were to the bodies of the dead who tare them in peeces to make
money of them.]
and the fantasies of such as are delited with nouelties. To be
short, when the image was once made and set vp on end, it appéered
rather an huge colossie than the true carcase of a man, and when
it had stood in Rome vntill the people were wearie & throughlie
satisfied with the sight thereof, he caused it to be broken all to
peeces, and the tooth sent againe to the carcase from whence it
came, willing them moreouer to couer it diligentlie, and in anie
wise not to dismember the corps, nor from thencefoorth to be so
hardie as to open the sepulchre anie more. Pausan. lib. 8. telleth
in like maner of Hiplodanus & his fellowes, who liued when Rhea
was with child of Osyris by Cham, and were called to hir aid at
[Sidenote: Grandiáque effossis mirabitur ossa sepulchris.]
such time as she feared to be molested by Hammon hir first husband,
whilest she remained vpon the Thoumasian hill, "In ipso loco,"
saith he, "spectantur ossa maiora multo quàm vt humana existimari
possunt, &c." Of Protophanes who had but one great and broad bone
in steed of all his ribs on ech side I saie nothing, sith it
concerneth not his stature.

I could rehearse manie mo examples of the bodies of such men, out
of Solinus, Sabellicus, D. Cooper, and others. As of Oetas and
Ephialtes, who were said to be nine orgies or paces in heigth, and
foure in bredth, which are taken for so many cubits, bicause there
is small difference betwéene a mans ordinarie pace and his cubit,
and finallie of our Richard the first, who is noted to beare an
axe in the wars, the iron of whose head onelie weighed twentie
pound after our greatest weight, and whereof an old writer that I
haue seene, saith thus:

  This king Richard I vnderstand,
  Yer he went out of England,
  Let make an axe for the nones,
  Therewith to cleaue the Saracens bones,
  The head in sooth was wrought full weele,
  Thereon were twentie pound of steele,
  And when he came in Cyprus land,
  That ilkon axe he tooke in hand, &c.

I could speake also of Gerards staffe or lance, yet to be seene in
Gerards hall at London in Basing lane, which is so great and long
that no man can beweld it, neither go to the top thereof without
a ladder, which of set purpose and for greater countenance of the
wonder is fixed by the same. I haue seene a man my selfe of seuen
foot in heigth, but lame of his legs. The chronicles also of Cogehall
speake of one in Wales, who was halfe a foot higher, but through
infirmitie and wounds not able to beweld himselfe. I might (if I
thought good) speake also of another of no lesse heigth than either
of these and liuing of late yeares, but these here remembred shall
suffice to prooue my purpose withall. I might tell you in like sort
of the marke stone which Turnus threw at Aeneas, and was such as
[Sidenote: Vis vnita fortior est eadem dispersa.]
that twelue chosen and picked men (saith Virgil),

  (Qualia nunc hominum producit corpora tellus)

were not able to stur and remooue out of the place: but I passe it
ouer, and diuerse of the like, concluding that these huge blocks
were ordeined and created by God: first for a testimonie vnto vs
of his power and might; and secondlie for a confirmation, that
hugenes of bodie is not to be accompted of as a part of our felicitie,
sith they which possessed the same, were not onelie tyrants, doltish,
& euill men, but also oftentimes ouercome euen by the weake &
feeble. Finallie they were such indéed as in whom the Lord delited
[Sidenote: _Cap. 3, 36._]
not, according, to the saieng of the prophet Baruch; "Ibi fuerunt
gigantes nominati, illi qui ab initio fuerunt statura magna, scientes
bellum, hos non elegit Dominus, neque illis viam disciplinae dedit,
propterea perierunt, et quoniam non habuerunt sapientiam, interierunt
propter suam insipientiam, &c." that is, "There were the giants
famous from the beginning, that were of great stature and expert
in warre, those did not the Lord choose, neither gaue he the waie
of knowledge vnto them, but they were destroied, because they had
no wisedome, and perished through their owne foolishnesse." That
[Sidenote: _4. Esd. cap. 5._]
the bodies of men also doo dailie decaie in stature, beside Plinie
lib. 7. Esdras likewise confesseth lib. 4. cap. 5. whose authoritie
is so good herein as that of Homer or Plinie, who doo affirme so
much, whereas Goropius still continuing his woonted pertinacitie
also in this behalfe, maketh his proportion first by the old Romane
foot, and then by his owne, & therevpon concludeth that men in
these daies be fullie so great as euer they were, whereby as in
the former dealing he thinketh it nothing to conclude against the
scriptures, chosen writers and testimonies of the oldest pagans.
But see how he would salue all at last in the end of his Gigantomachia,
where he saith, I denie not but that od huge personages haue bene
seene, as a woman of ten, and a man of nine foot long, which I my
selfe also haue beholden, but as now so in old time the common sort
did so much woonder at the like as we doo at these, because they
were seldome séene, and not commonlie to be heard of.




OF THE LANGUAGES SPOKEN IN THIS ILAND.

CAP. VI.


[Sidenote: British.]
What language came first with Samothes and afterward with Albion,
and the giants of his companie, it is hard for me to determine,
[Sidenote: Small difference betweene the British and Celtike
languages.]
sith nothing of sound credit remaineth in writing, which may resolue
vs in the truth hereof. Yet of so much are we certeine, that the
speach of the ancient Britons, and of the Celts, had great affinitie
one with another, so that they were either all one, or at leastwise
such as either nation with small helpe of interpretors might
vnderstand other, and readilie discerne what the speaker meant.
Some are of the opinion that the Celts spake Greeke, and how the
British toong resembled the same, which was spoken in Grecia before
Homer did reforme it: but I see that these men doo speake without
authoritie and therefore I reiect them, for if the Celts which were
properlie called Galles did speake Gréeke, why did Cesar in his
letters sent to Rome vse that language, because that if they should
be intercepted they might not vnderstand them, or why did he not
vnderstand the Galles, he being so skilfull in the language without
an interpretor? Yet I denie not but that the Celtish and British
speaches might haue great affinitie one with another, and the
British aboue all other with the Greeke, for both doo appéere by
certeine words, as first in tri for three, march for an horsse, &
trimarchia, whereof Pausanias speaketh, for both. Atheneus also
writeth of Bathanasius a capitaine of the Galles, whose name is
méere British, compounded of Bath & Ynad, & signifieth a noble or
comelie iudge. And wheras he saith that the reliques of the Galles
tooke vp their first dwelling about Isther, and afterward diuided
themselues in such wise, that they which went and dwelled in Hungarie
were called Sordsai, and the other that inhabited within the dominion
of Tyroll) Brenni, whose seate was on the mount Brenhere parcell
of the Alpes, what else signifieth the word Iscaredich in British,
from whence the word Scordisci commeth, but to be diuided? Hereby
then, and sundrie other the like testimonies, I gather that the
British and the Celtish speaches had great affinitie one with
another, as I said, which Cesar (speaking of the similitude or
likenesse of religion in both nations) doth also auerre, & Tacitus
in vita Agricolae, in like sort plainlie affirmeth, or else it must
needs be that the Galles which inuaded Italie and Greece were meere
Britons, of whose likenes of speech with the Gréeke toong I need
not make anie triall, sith no man (I hope) will readilie denie it.
Appianus talking of the Brenni calleth them Cymbres, and by this
I gather also that the Celts and the Britons were indifferentlie
called Cymbri in their own language, or else that the Britons were
the right Cymbri, who vnto this daie doo not refuse to be called
by that name. Bodinus writing of the means by which the originall
of euerie kingdome and nation is to be had and discerned, setteth
downe thrée waies whereby the knowledge thereof is to be found,
one is (saith he) the infallible testimonie of the sound writers,
the other the description and site of the region, the third the
relikes of the ancient speech remaining in the same. Which later
if it be of any force, then I must conclude, that the spéech of
the Britons and Celts was sometime either all one or verie like
one to another, or else it must follow that the Britons ouerflowed
the continent vnder the name of Cymbres, being peraduenture associat
in this voiage, or mixed by inuasion with the Danes, and Norwegiens,
who are called Cymbri and Cymmerij, as most writers doo remember.
This also is euident (as Plutarch likewise confesseth In vita Marij)
that no man knew from whence the Cymbres came in his daies, and
therfore I beleeue that they came out of Britaine, for all the
maine was well knowne vnto them, I meane euen to the vttermost part
of the north, as may appeare furthermore by the slaues which were
dailie brought from thence vnto them, whom of their countries they
called Daui for Daci, Getae for Gothes, &c: for of their conquests
I need not make rehearsall, sith they are commonlie knowne and
remembred by the writers, both of the Greekes and Latines.

[Sidenote: British corrupted by the Latine and Saxon speeches.]
The British toong called Camberaec dooth yet remaine in that part
of the Iland, which is now called Wales, whither the Britons were
driuen after the Saxons had made a full conquest of the other,
which we now call England, although the pristinate integritie
thereof be not a little diminished by mixture of the Latine and
Saxon speaches withall. Howbeit, manie poesies and writings (in
making whereof that nation hath euermore delited) are yet extant
in my time, wherby some difference betwéene the ancient and present
language may easilie be discerned, notwithstanding that among all
these there is nothing to be found, which can set downe anie sound
and full testimonie of their owne originall, in remembrance whereof,
their Bards and cunning men haue béene most slacke and negligent.
Giraldus in praising the Britons affirmeth that there is not one
word in all their language, that is not either Gréeke or Latine.
Which being rightly vnderstanded and conferred with the likenesse
that was in old time betwéene the Celts & the British toongs, will
not a little helpe those that thinke the old Celtish to haue some
sauour of the Gréeke. But how soeuer that matter standeth, after
the British speach came once ouer into this Iland, sure it is, that
it could neuer be extinguished for all the attempts that the Romans,
Saxons, Normans, and Englishmen could make against that nation, in
anie maner of wise.

[Sidenote: The Britons diligent in petigrees.]
Petigrées and genealogies also the Welsh Britons haue plentie in
their owne toong, insomuch that manie of them can readilie deriue
the same, either from Brute or some of his band, euen vnto Aeneas
and other of the Troians, and so foorth vnto Noah without anie
maner of stop. But as I know not what credit is to be giuen vnto
them in this behalfe, although I must néeds confesse that their
ancient Bards were verie diligent in there collection, and had also
publike allowance or salarie for the same; so I dare not absolutelie
impugne their assertions, sith that in times past all nations
(learning it no doubt of the Hebrues) did verie solemnelie preserue
the catalogs of their descents, thereby either to shew themselues
of ancient and noble race, or else to be descended from some one
of the gods. But

  Stemmata quid faciunt? quid prodest Pontice longo
  Sanguine censeri? aut quid auorum ducere turmas? &c.

[Sidenote: Latine.]
Next vnto the British speach, the Latine toong was brought in by
the Romans, and in maner generallie planted through the whole
region, as the French was after by the Normans. Of this toong I
will not say much, bicause there are few which be not skilfull in
the same. Howbeit, as the speach it selfe is easie and delectable,
so hath it peruerted the names of the ancient riuers, regions, &
cities of Britaine in such wise, that in these our daies their old
British denominations are quite growne out of memorie, and yet
those of the new Latine left as most vncertaine. This remaineth
also vnto my time, borowed from the Romans, that all our déeds,
euidences, charters, & writings of record, are set downe in the
Latine toong, though now verie barbarous, and therevnto the copies
and court-rolles, and processes of courts and leets registred in
the same.

[Sidenote: The Saxon toong.]
The third language apparantlie knowne is the Scithian or high Dutch,
induced at the first by the Saxons (which the Britons call Saysonaec,
as they doo the speakers Sayson) an hard and rough kind of speach,
God wot, when our nation was brought first into acquaintance withall,
but now changed with vs into a farre more fine and easie kind of
vtterance, and so polished and helped with new and milder words,
that it is to be aduouched how there is no one speach vnder the
sunne spoken in our time, that hath or can haue more varietie of
words, copie of phrases, or figures and floures of eloquence, than
hath our English toong, although some haue affirmed vs rather to
barke as dogs, than talke like men, bicause the most of our words
(as they doo indéed) incline vnto one syllable. This also is to be
noted as a testimonie remaining still of our language, deriued from
the Saxons, that the generall name for the most part of euerie
skilfull artificer in his trade endeth in Here with vs, albeit the
H be left out, and er onlie inserted, as Scriuenhere, writehere,
shiphere, &c: for scriuener, writer, and shipper, &c: beside manie
other relikes of that spéech, neuer to be abolished.

[Sidenote: The French toong.]
After the Saxon toong, came the Norman or French language ouer into
our countrie, and therein were our lawes written for a long time.
Our children also were by an especiall decrée taught first to speake
the same, and therevnto inforced to learne their constructions in
the French, whensoeuer they were set to the Grammar schoole. In
like sort few bishops, abbats, or other clergie men, were admitted
vnto anie ecclesiasticall function here among vs, but such as came
out of religious houses from beyond the seas, to the end they should
not vse the English toong in their sermons to the people. In the
court also it grew into such contempt, that most men thought it no
small dishonor to speake any English there. Which brauerie tooke
his hold at the last likewise in the countrie with euerie plowman,
that euen the verie carters began to wax wearie of there mother
toong, & laboured to speake French, which as then was counted no
small token of gentilitie. And no maruell, for euerie French rascall,
when he came once hither, was taken for a gentleman, onelie bicause
he was proud, and could vse his owne language, and all this (I say)
to exile the English and British speaches quite out of the countrie.
But in vaine, for in the time of king Edward the first, to wit,
toward the latter end of his reigne, the French it selfe ceased to
be spoken generallie, but most of all and by law in the midst of
Edward the third, and then began the English to recouer and grow
in more estimation than before; notwithstanding that among our
artificers, the most part of their implements, tooles and words of
art reteine still their French denominations euen to these our
daies, as the language it selfe is vsed likewise in sundrie courts,
bookes of record, and matters of law; whereof here is no place to
[Sidenote: The helpers of our English toong.]
make any particular rehearsall. Afterward also, by diligent trauell
of Geffray Chaucer, and Iohn Gowre, in the time of Richard the
second, and after them of Iohn Scogan, and Iohn Lydgate monke of
Berrie, our said toong was brought to an excellent passe,
notwithstanding that it neuer came vnto the type of perfection,
vntill the time of Quéene Elizabeth, wherein Iohn Iewell B. of
Sarum, Iohn Fox, and sundrie learned & excellent writers haue fullie
accomplished the ornature of the same, to their great praise and
immortall commendation; although not a few other doo greatlie séeke
to staine the same, by fond affectation of forren and strange words,
presuming that to be the best English, which is most corrupted with
externall termes of eloquence, and sound of manie syllables. But
as this excellencie of the English toong is found in one, and the
south part of this Iland; so in Wales the greatest number (as I
said) retaine still their owne ancient language, that of the north
part of the said countrie being lesse corrupted than the other,
and therefore reputed for the better in their owne estimation and
iudgement. This also is proper to vs Englishmen, that sith ours is
[Sidenote: Englishmen apt to learne any forren toong.]
a meane language, and neither too rough nor too smooth in vtterance,
we may with much facilitie learne any other language, beside Hebrue,
Gréeke & Latine, and speake it naturallie, as if we were homeborne
in those countries; & yet on the other side it falleth out, I wot
not by what other meanes, that few forren nations can rightlie
pronounce ours, without some and that great note of imperfection,
especiallie the French men, who also seldome write any thing that
sauoreth of English trulie. It is a pastime to read how Natalis
Comes in like maner, speaking of our affaires, dooth clip the names
of our English lords. But this of all the rest dooth bréed most
admiration with me, that if any stranger doo hit vpon some likelie
pronuntiation of our toong, yet in age he swarueth so much from
the same, that he is woorse therein than euer he was, and thereto
peraduenture halteth not a litle also in his owne, as I haue séene
by experience in Reginald Wolfe, and other, whereof I haue iustlie
maruelled.

[Sidenote: The Cornish toong.]
The Cornish and Deuonshire men, whose countrie the Britons call
Cerniw, haue a speach in like sort of their owne, and such as hath
in déed more affinitie with the Armoricane toong than I can well
discusse of. Yet in mine opinion, they are both but a corrupted
kind of Brittish, albeit so far degenerating in these daies from
the old, that if either of them doo méete with a Welshman, they
are not able at the first to vnderstand one an other, except here
and there in some od words, without the helpe of interpretors. And
no maruell in mine opinion that the British of Cornewall is thus
corrupted, sith the Welsh toong that is spoken in the north & south
part of Wales, doth differ so much in it selfe, as the English vsed
in Scotland dooth from that which is spoken among vs here in this
side of the Iland, as I haue said alreadie.

[Sidenote: Scottish english.]
The Scottish english hath beene much broader and lesse pleasant in
vtterance than ours, because that nation hath not till of late
indeuored to bring the same to any perfect order, and yet it was
such in maner, as Englishmen themselues did speake for the most
part beyond the Trent, whither any great amendement of our language
had not as then extended it selfe. Howbeit in our time the Scottish
language endeuoreth to come neere, if not altogither to match our
toong in finenesse of phrase, and copie of words, and this may in
part appeare by an historie of the Apocripha translated into Scottish
verse by Hudson, dedicated to the king of that countrie, and
conteining sixe books, except my memorie doo faile me.

Thus we sée how that vnder the dominion of the king of England,
and in the south parts of the realme, we haue thrée seuerall toongs,
that is to saie, English, British, and Cornish, and euen so manie
are in Scotland, if you accompt the English speach for one:
notwithstanding that for bredth and quantitie of the region, I
meane onelie of the soile of the maine Iland, it be somewhat lesse
to see to than the other. For in the north part of the region,
[Sidenote: The wild Scots.]
[Sidenote: Redshanks.]
[Sidenote: Rough footed Scots.]
where the wild Scots, otherwise called the Redshanks, or rough
[Sidenote: Irish Scots.]
footed Scots (because they go bare footed and clad in mantels ouer
[Sidenote: Irish speech.]
their saffron shirts after the Irish maner) doo inhabit, they speake
good Irish which they call Gachtlet, as they saie of one Gathelus,
whereby they shew their originall to haue in times past béene
fetched out of Ireland: as I noted also in the chapiter precedent,
and wherevnto Vincentius cap. de insulis Oceani dooth yéeld his
assent, saieng that Ireland was in time past called Scotia; "Scotia
eadem (saith he) & Hibernia, proxima Britanniae insula, spatio
terrarum angustior, sed situ foecundior; Scotia autem à Scotorum
gentibus traditur appellata, &c." Out of the 14. booke of Isidorus
intituled Originum, where he also addeth that it is called Hybernia,
because it bendeth toward Iberia. But I find elsewhere that it is
so called by certeine Spaniards which came to seeke and plant their
inhabitation in the same, wherof in my Chronologie I haue spoken
more at large.

In the Iles of the Orchades, or Orkeney, as we now call them, &
such coasts of Britaine as doo abbut vpon the same, the Gottish or
Danish speach is altogither in vse, and also in Shetland, by reason
(as I take it) that the princes of Norwaie held those Ilands so
long under their subiection, albeit they were otherwise reputed as
rather to belong to Ireland, bicause that the verie soile of them
is enimie to poison, as some write, although for my part I had
neuer any sound experience of the truth hereof. And thus much haue
I thought good to speake of our old speaches, and those fiue
languages now vsuallie spoken within the limits of our Iland.




INTO HOW MANIE KINGDOMS THIS ILAND HATH BEENE DIUIDED.

CAP. VII.


[Sidenote: Britaine at the first one entire kingdome.]
It is not to be doubted, but that at the first, the whole Iland
was ruled by one onelie prince, and so continued from time to time,
vntill ciuill discord, grounded vpon ambitious desire to reigne,
caused the same to be gouerned by diuerse. And this I meane so well
of the time before the comming of Brute, as after the extinction
of his whole race & posteritie. Howbeit, as it is vncerteine into
how manie regions it was seuered, after the first partition; so it
is most sure that this latter disturbed estate of regiment, continued
in the same, not onelie vntill the time of Caesar, but also in
maner vnto the daies of Lucius, with whome the whole race of the
Britons had an end, and the Romans full possession of this Iland,
who gouerned it by Legats after the maner of a prouince. It should
séeme also that within a while after the time of Dunwallon (who
rather brought those foure princes that vsurped in his time to
obedience, than extinguished their titles, & such partition as they
had made of the Iland among themselues) each great citie had hir
fréedome and seuerall kind of regiment, proper vnto hir selfe,
beside a large circuit of the countrie appertinent vnto the same,
wherein were sundrie other cities also of lesse name, which owght
homage and all subiection vnto the greater sort. And to saie truth,
hereof it came to passe, that each of these regions, whereinto this
Iland was then diuided, tooke his name of some one of these cities;
although Ciuitas after Caesar doth sometime signifie an whole
continent or kingdome, whereby there were in old time Tot ciuitates
quot regna, and contrariwise as may appeare by that of the Trinobantes,
which was so called of Trinobantum the chiefe citie of that portion,
whose territories conteined all Essex, Middlesex, and part of
Hertfordshire, euen as the iurisdiction of the bishop of London is
now extended, for the ouersight of such things as belong vnto the
church. Ech of the gouernors also of these regions, called themselues
kings, and therevnto either of them dailie made warre vpon other,
for the inlarging of their limits. But for somuch as I am not able
to saie how manie did challenge this authoritie at once, and how
long they reigned ouer their seuerall portions, I will passe ouer
these ancient times, and come néerer vnto our owne, I meane the
600. yéere of Christ, whereof we haue more certeine notice, & at
which season there is euident proofe, that there were twelue or
thirtéene kings reigning in this Iland.

[Sidenote: Wales diuided into three kingdomes.]
We find therefore for the first, how that Wales had hir thrée
seuerall kingdomes, which being accompted togither conteined (as
Giraldus saith) 49. cantreds or cantons (whereof thrée were in his
time possessed by the French and English) although that whole
portion of the Iland extended in those daies no farder than about
200. miles in length, and one hundred in bredth, and was cut from
Lhoegres by the riuers Sauerne and Dee, of which two streames this
dooth fall into the Irish sea at Westchester, the other into the
maine Ocean, betwixt Somersetshire and Southwales, as their seuerall
courses shall witnesse more at large.

In the begining it was diuided into two kingdoms onelie, that is
[Sidenote: Gwinhed.]
to saie, Venedotia or Gwynhedh (otherwise called Dehenbarth) and
Demetia, for which we now vse most commonlie the names of South &
Northwales. But in a short processe of time a third sprung vp in
the verie middest betwéene them both, which from thence-foorth was
called Powisy, as shalbe shewed hereafter. For Roderijc the great,
who flourished 850. of Christ, and was king of all Wales (which
then conteined onlie six regions) leauing thrée sons behind him,
by his last will & testament diuided the countrie into thrée
portions, according to the number of his children, of which he
assigned one vnto either of them, wherby Morwing or Morwinner had
Gwynhedh or Northwales, Cadelh Demetia or Southwales, and Anaralt
Powisy, as Giraldus and other doo remember. Howbeit it came to
passe that after this diuision, Cadelh suruiued all his brethren,
and thereby became lord of both their portions, and his successors
after him vntill the time of Teuther or Theodor (all is one) after
which they were contented to kéepe themselues within the compasse
of Demetia, which (as I said) conteined 29. of those 49. cantreds
before mentioned, as Powisy did six, and Gwinhedh fourtéene, except
my memorie doo faile me.

The first of these thrée, being called (as I said) Northwales or
[Sidenote: Venedotia.]
Venedotia (or as Paulus Iouius saith Malfabrene, for he diuideth
Wales also into thrée regions, of which he calleth the first Dumbera,
the second Berfrona, and the third Malfabrene) lieth directlie ouer
against the Ile of Anglesei, the chiefe citie whereof stood in the
[Sidenote: Anglesei.]
Ile of Anglesei and was called Aberfraw. It conteineth 4. regions,
of which the said Land is the first, and whereof in the chapter
insuing I will intreate more at large. The second is called Arfon,
[Sidenote: Arfon.]
and situate betweene two riuers, the Segwy and the Conwy. The third
[Sidenote: Merioneth.]
is Merioneth, and as it is seuered from Arfon by the Conwy, so is
[Sidenote: Stradcluyd or Tegenia.]
it separated from Tegenia (otherwise called Stradcluyd and Igenia
the fourth region) by the riuer Cluda. Finallie, the limits of this
latter are extended also euen vnto the Dée it selfe, and of these
foure regions consisteth the kingdome of Venedotia, whereof in
times past the region of the Canges was not the smallest portion.

The kingdome of Powisy, last of all erected, as I said, hath on
[Sidenote: Powisy.]
the north side Gwinhedh on the east (from Chester to Hereford, or
rather to Deane forest) England, on the south and west the riuer
Wy and verie high hilles, whereby it is notablie seuered from
Southwales, the chiefe citie thereof being at the first Salopsburg,
in old time Pengwerne, and Ynwithig, but now Shrowesburie, a citie
or towne raised out of the ruines of Vricouium, which (standing 4.
miles from thence, and by the Saxons called Wrekencester and
Wrokecester, before they ouerthrew it) is now inhabited with méere
English, and where in old time the kings of Powisy did dwell and
hold their palaces, till Englishmen draue them from thence to
Matrauall in the same prouince, where they from thencefoorth aboad.
Vpon the limits of this kingdome, and not far from Holt castell,
vpon ech side of the riuer, as the chanell now runneth, stood
sometime the famous monasterie of Bangor, whilest the abated glorie
[Sidenote: Bangor.]
of the Britons yet remained vnextinguished, and herein were 2100.
monkes, of which, the learned sort did preach the Gospell, and the
vnlearned labored with their hands, thereby to mainteine themselues,
and to sustaine their preachers. This region was in like sort
diuided afterward in twaine, of which, the one was called Mailor
[Sidenote: Mailrosse.]
or Mailrosse, the other reteined still hir old denomination, and
of these the first laie by south, & the latter by north of the
Sauerne.

As touching Mailrosse, I read moreouer in the gests of Fowkes de
[Sidenote: Fowkes de Warren.]
Warren, how that one William sonne to a certeine ladie sister to
Paine Peuerell, the first lord of Whittington, after the conquest
did win a part of the same, and the hundred of Ellesmore from the
Welshmen, in which enterprise he was so desperatlie wounded, that
no man hight him life; yet at the last by eating of the shield of
a wild bore, he got an appetite and recouered his health. This
William had issue two daughters, to wit, Helene maried to the heire
[Sidenote: Helene.]
of the Alans, and Mellent which refused mariage with anie man,
[Sidenote: Mellent.]
except he were first tried to be a knight of prowesse. Herevpon
hir father made proclamation, that against such a daie & at such
a place, whatsoeuer Gentleman could shew himselfe most valiant in
the field, should marrie Mellent his daughter, & haue with hir his
castell of Whittington with sufficient liueliehood to mainteine
their estates for euer. This report being spred, Fowkes de Warren
came thither all in red, with a shield of siluer and pecocke for
his crest, whereof he was called the red knight, and there ouercomming
the kings sonne of Scotland, and a Baron of Burgundie, he maried
the maid, and by hir had issue as in the treatise appeareth. There
is yet great mention of the red knight in the countrie there about;
and much like vnto this Mellent was the daughter sometime of one
[Sidenote: The originall of Fitz-Henries.]
of the lord Rosses, called Kudall, who bare such good will to
Fitz-Henrie clarke of hir fathers kitchen, that she made him carie
hir awaie on horssebacke behind him, onlie for his manhood sake,
which presentlie was tried. For being pursued & ouer taken, she
made him light, & held his cloke whilest he killed and draue hir
fathers men to flight: and then awaie they go, till hir father
conceiuing a good opinion of Fitz-Henrie for this act, receiued
him to his fauour, whereby that familie came vp. And thus much (by
the waie) of Mailrosse, whereof this may suffice, sith mine intent
is not as now to make anie precise description of the particulars
of Wales; but onelie to shew how those regions laie, which sometime
[Sidenote: Demetia.]
were knowne to be gouerned in that countrie. The third kingdome
is Demetia, or Southwales, sometime knowne for the region of the
Syllures, wherevnto I also am persuaded, that the Ordolukes laie
in the east part thereof, and extended their region euen vnto the
Sauerne: but howsoeuer that matter falleth out, Demetia hath the
Sauerne on hir south, the Irish sea on hir west parts, on the east
the Sauerne onelie, and by north the land of Powisy, whereof I
spake of late.

[Sidenote: Cair Maridunum.]
Of this region also Caermarden, which the old writers call Maridunum,
was the chéefe citie and palace belonging to the kings of Southwales,
vntill at the last through forren and ciuill inuasions of enimies,
the princes thereof were constrained to remooue their courts to
Dinefar (which is in Cantermawr, and situate neuerthelesse vpon
the same riuer Tewy, wheron Caermarden standeth) in which place it
is far better defended with high hils, thicke woods, craggie rocks,
and déepe marises. In this region also lieth Pembroke aliàs Penmoroc
shire, whose fawcons haue béene in old time very much regarded,
and therein likewise is Milford hauen, whereof the Welsh wisards
doo yet dreame strange toies, which they beleeue shall one daie
come to passe. For they are a nation much giuen to fortelling of
things to come, but more to beléeue such blind prophesies as haue
béene made of old time, and no man is accompted for learned in
Wales that is not supposed to haue the spirit of prophesie.

[Sidenote: Pictland.]
[Sidenote: Scotland.]
[Sidenote: Picts.]
[Sidenote: Scots.]
That Scotland had in those daies two kingdoms, (besides that of
the Orchades) whereof the one consisted of the Picts, and was called
Pightland or Pictland, the other of the Irish race, and named
Scotland: I hope no wise man will readilie denie. The whole region
or portion of the Ile beyond the Scotish sea also was so diuided,
that the Picts laie on the east side, and the Scots on the west,
ech of them being seuered from other, either by huge hils or great
lakes and riuers, that ran out of the south into the north betwéene
them. It séemeth also that at the first these two kingdoms were
diuided from the rest of those of the Britons by the riuers Cluda
and Forth, till both of them desirous to inlarge their dominions,
draue the Britons ouer the Solue and the Twede, which then became
march betweene both the nations. Wherefore the case being so
plaine, I will saie no more of these two, but procéed in order with
the rehersall of the rest of the particular kingdoms of this our
south part of the Ile, limiting out the same by shires as they now
lie, so néere as I can, for otherwise it shall be vnpossible for
me to leaue certaine notice of the likeliest quantities of these
their seuerall portions.

[Sidenote: Kent Henghist.]
The first of these kingdoms therefore was begunne in Kent by Henghist
in the 456. of Christ, and thereof called the kingdome of Kent or
Cantwarland, and as the limits thereof extended it selfe no farther
than the said countie (the cheefe citie whereof was Dorobernia or
Cantwarbyry now Canturburie) so it indured well néere by the space
of 400. yeares, before it was made an earledome or Heretochie, and
vnited by Inas vnto that of the West Saxons, Athelstane his sonne,
being the first Earle or Heretoch of the same. Maister Lambert in
his historie of Kent dooth gather, by verie probable coniectures,
that this part of the Iland was first inhabited by Samothes, and
afterward by Albion. But howsoeuer that case standeth, sure it is
that it hath béen the onelie doore, whereby the Romans and Saxons
made their entrie vnto the conquest of the region, but first of
all Caesar, who entred into this Iland vpon the eightéenth Cal. or
14. of September, which was foure daies before the full of the
moone, as he himselfe confesseth, and then fell out about the 17.
or 18. of that moneth, twelue daies before the equinoctiall (apparant)
so that he did not tarrie at that time aboue eight or ten daies in
Britaine. And as this platforme cannot be denied for his entrance,
so the said region and east part of Kent, was the onelie place by
which the knowledge of Christ was first brought ouer vnto vs,
whereby we became partakers of saluation, and from the darkenesse
of mistie errour, true conuerts vnto the light and bright beames
of the shining truth, to our eternall benefit and euerlasting
comforts.

The second kingdome conteined onelie Sussex, and a part of (or as
[Sidenote: Southsax.]
some saie all) Surrie, which Ella the Saxon first held: who also
[Sidenote: Ella.]
erected his chéefe palace at Chichester, when he had destroied
Andredswald in the 492. of Christ. And after it had continued by
the space of 232. years, it ceased, being the verie least kingdome
of all the rest, which were founded in this Ile after the comming
of the Saxons (for to saie truth, it conteined little aboue 7000.
families) & within a while after the erection of the kingdome of
the Gewisses or Westsaxons, notwithstanding that before the kings
of Sussex pretended and made claime to all that which laie west of
Kent, and south of the Thames, vnto the point of Corinwall, as I
haue often read.

The third regiment was of the East Saxons, or Tribonantes. This
[Sidenote: Eastsax.]
kingdome began vnder Erkenwijn, whose chéefe seat was in London
[Sidenote: Erkenwijn.]
(or rather Colchester) and conteined whole Essex, Middlesex, and
part of Herfordshire. It indured also much about the pricke of 303.
yeares, and was diuided from that of the East Angles onlie by the
riuer Stoure, as Houeden and others doo report, & so it continueth
separated from Suffolke euen vnto our times, although the said
riuer be now growne verie small, and not of such greatnesse as it
hath béene in times past, by reason that our countriemen make small
accompt of riuers, thinking carriage made by horsse and cart to be
the lesse chargeable waie. But herin how far they are deceiued, I
will else-where make manifest declaration.

The fourth kingdome was of the West Saxons, and so called, bicause
[Sidenote: Westsax.]
it laie in the west part of the realme, as that of Essex did in
the east, and of Sussex in the south. It began in the yeare of
Grace 519. vnder Cerdijc, and indured vntill the comming of the
[Sidenote: Cerdiic.]
Normans, including at the last all Wiltshire, Barkeshire, Dorset,
Southampton, Somersetshire, Glocestershire, some part of Deuonshire
(which the Britons occupied not) Cornewall, and the rest of Surrie,
as the best authors doo set downe. At the first it conteined onelie
Wiltshire, Dorcetshire, and Barkeshire, but yer long the princes
thereof conquered whatsoeuer the kings of Sussex and the Britons
held vnto the point of Cornewall, and then became first Dorchester
(vntill the time of Kinigils) then Winchester the chéefe citie of
that kingdome. For when Birinus the moonke came into England, the
said Kinigils gaue him Dorchester, and all the land within seauen
miles about, toward the maintenance of his cathedrall sea, by meanes
whereof he himselfe remooued his palace to Winchester.

The fift kingdome began vnder Ida, in the 548. of Christ, and was
[Sidenote: Brennicia, aliàs Northumberland.]
called Northumberland, bicause it laie by north of the riuer Humber.
And from the comming of Henghist to this Ida, it was onlie gouerned
[Sidenote: Ida.]
by earls or Heretoches as an Heretochy, till the said Ida conuerted
it into a kingdome. It conteined all that region which (as it should
séeme) was in time past either wholie apperteining to the Brigants,
or whereof the said Brigants did possesse the greater part. The
cheefe citie of the same in like maner was Yorke, as Beda, Capgraue,
Leyland, and others doo set downe, who ad thereto that it extended
from the Humber vnto the Scotish sea, vntill the slaughter of
Egfride of the Northumbers, after which time the Picts gat hold of
all, betweene the Forth and the Twede, which afterward descending
to the Scots by meanes of the vtter destruction of the Picts, hath
not beene sithens vnited to the crowne of England, nor in possession
of the meere English, as before time it had béene. Such was the
crueltie of these Picts also in their recouerie of the same, that
at a certeine houre they made a Sicilien euensong, and slew euerie
English man, woman and child, that they could laie hold vpon within
the aforesaid region, but some escaped narrowlie, and saued themselues
by flight.

Afterward in the yeare of Grace 560. it was parted in twaine, vnder
[Sidenote: Deira.]
Adda, that yeelded vp all his portion, which lay betweene Humber
[Sidenote: Ella.]
and the Tine vnto his brother Ella (according to their fathers
appointment) who called it Deira, or Southumberland, but reteining
the rest still vnto his owne vse, he diminished not his title, but
wrote himselfe as before king of all Northumberland. Howbeit after
91. yeares, it was revnited againe, and so continued vntill Alfred
annexed the whole to his kingdome, in the 331. after Ida, or 878.
of the birth of Jesus Christ our Sauiour.

[Sidenote: Eastangles.]
The seauenth kingdome, called of the East-Angles, began at Norwich
[Sidenote: Offa, à quo Offlingae.]
in the 561. after Christ, vnder Offa, of whom the people of that
region were long time called Offlings. This included all Norfolke,
Suffolke, Cambridgeshire, and Elie, and continuing 228. yeares, it
flourished onelie 35. yeares in perfect estate of liberte, the rest
being consumed vnder the tribut and vassallage of the Mercians,
who had the souereigntie thereof, and held it with great honour,
till the Danes gat hold of it, who spoiled it verie sore, so that
it became more miserable than any of the other, and so remained
till the kings of the West-saxons vnited it to their crownes. Some
saie that Grantcester, but now Cambridge (a towne erected out of
hir ruines) was the chéefe citie of this kingdome, and not Norwich.
Wherein I may well shew the discord of writers, but I cannot resolue
the scruple. Some take this region also to be all one with that of
the Icenes, but as yet for my part I cannot yeeld to their assertions,
I meane it of Leland himselfe, whose helpe I vse chéefelie in these
collections, albeit in this behalfe I am not resolued that he doth
iudge aright.

[Sidenote: Mertia.]
The 8. & last was that of Mertia, which indured 291. yeares, and
for greatnesse exceeded all the rest. It tooke the name either of
Mearc the Saxon word, bicause it was march to the rest (and trulie,
the limits of most of the other kingdomes abutted vpon the same)
or else for that the lawes of Martia the Queene were first vsed in
[Sidenote: Creodda.]
that part of the Iland. But as this later is but a méere coniecture
of some, so the said kingdome began vnder Creodda, in the 585. of
Christ, & indured well néere 300. yeares before it was vnited to
that of the West-saxons by Alfred, then reigning in this Ile. Before
him the Danes had gotten hold thereof, and placed one Ceolulph an
idiot in the same; but as he was soone reiected for his follie, so
it was not long after yer the said Alfred (I saie) annexed it to
[Sidenote: Limits of Mertia.]
his kingdome by his manhood. The limits of the Mertian dominions
included Lincolne, Northampton, Chester, Darbie, Nottingham,
Stafford, Huntington, Rutland, Oxford, Buckingham, Worcester,
Bedford shires, and the greatest part of Shropshire (which the
Welsh occupied not) Lancaster, Glocester, Hereford (alias Hurchford)
Warwijc and Hertford shires: the rest of whose territories were
holden by such princes of other kingdomes through force as bordered
vpon the same. Moreouer, this kingdome was at one time diuided
into south and north Mertia, whereof this laie beyond and the other
on this side of the Trent, which later also Oswald of Northumberland
did giue to Weada the sonne of Penda for kindred sake, though he
not long inioied it. This also is worthie to be noted, that in
these eight kingdomes of the Saxons, there were twelue princes
reputed in the popish Catalog for saints or martyrs, of which
Alcimund, Edwine, Oswald, Oswijn and Aldwold reigned in Northumberland;
Sigebert, Ethelbert, Edmond, and another Sigebert among the Estangels;
Kenelme and Wistan in Mertia; and Saint Edward the confessor, ouer
all; but how worthilie, I referre me to the iudgement of the learned.
Thus much haue I thought good to leaue in memorie of the aforesaid
kingdomes: and now will I speake somewhat of the diuision of this
Iland also into prouinces, as the Romanes seuered it whiles they
remained in these parts. Which being done, I hope that I haue
discharged whatsoeuer is promised in the title of this chapter.

[Sidenote: Britannia prima.]
The Romans therefore hauing obteined the possession of this Iland,
diuided the same at the last into fiue prouinces, as Vibius Sequester
saith. The first whereof was named Britannia prima, and conteined
the east part of England (as some doo gather) from the Trent vnto
[Sidenote: Valentia.]
the Twede. The second was called Valentia or Valentiana, and included
[Sidenote: Britannia secunda.]
the west side, as they note it, from Lirpoole vnto Cokermouth. The
third hight Britannia secunda, and was that portion of the Ile
[Sidenote: Flauia Caesariensis.]
which laie southwards, betwéene the Trent and the Thames. The fourth
was surnamed Flauia Caesariensis, and conteined all the countrie
which remained betweene Douer and the Sauerne, I meane by south of
the Thames, and wherevnto (in like sort) Cornewall and Wales were
[Sidenote: Maxima Caesariensis.]
orderlie assigned. The fift and last part was then named Maxima
Caesariensis, now Scotland, the most barren of all the rest, and
yet not vnsought out of the gréedie Romanes, bicause of the great
plentie of fish and foule, fine alabaster and hard marble that are
ingendred and to be had in the same, for furniture of houshold and
curious building, wherein they much delited. More hereof in Sextus
Rufus, who liued in the daies of Valentine, and wrate Notitiam
prouinciarum now extant to be read.

_A Catalog of the kings and princes of this Iland, first from
Samothes vnto the birth of our sauiour Christ, or rather the comming
of the Romans: secondlie of their Legates: thirdlie of the Saxon
princes according to their seuerall kingdomes: fourthlie of the
Danes, and lastlie of the Normans and English princes, according
to the truth conteined in our Histories._


OF THE KINGS OF BRITAINE, FROM SAMOTHES TO BRUTE.

Samothes.
Magus.
Sarronius.
Druiyus.
Bardus.
Longho.
Bardus Iunior.
Lucus.
Celtes.
  Albion.
Celtes after Albion slaine.
Galates,
Harbon.
Lugdus.
Beligius.
Iasius.
Allobrox.
Romus.
Paris.
Lemanus.
Olbius.
Galates. 2.
Nannes.
Remis.
Francus.
Pictus.
  After whom Brute entreth into the Iland, either neglected by the
  Celts, or otherwise by conquest, and reigned therein with his
  posteritie by the space of 636. yeares, in such order as foloweth.
Brute.
Locrinus.
Gwendolena his widow.
Madan.
Mempricius.
Ebracus.
Brutus Iunior.
Leil.
Rudibras.
Bladunus.
Leir.
Cordeil his daughter,
Cunedach and Morgan.
Riuallon.
Gurgustius.
Sisillus.
Iago.
Kimmachus.
Gorbodug.
Ferres and Porrex.
  These 2. being slaine, the princes of the land straue for the
  superioritie and regiment of the same, by the space of 50. yéeres
  (after the race of Brute was decaied) vntill Dunwallon king of
  Cornwall subdued them all, & brought the whole to his subiection,
  notwithstanding that the aforesaid number of kings remained still,
  which were but as vassals & inferiours to him, he being their chéefe
  and onelie souereigne.
Dunwallon reigneth.
Belinus his sonne, in whose time Brennus vsurpeth.
Gurgwinbatrus.
Guittellinus.
Seisili.
Kymarus.
Owan aliàs Ellan.
Morwich aliàs Morindus.
Grandobodian aliàs Gorbonian.
Arcigallon.
Elidurus aliàs Hesidor.
Arcigallon againe.
Elidurus againe.
Vigen aliàs Higanius, & Petitur aliàs Peridurus.
Elidurus the third time.
Gorbodia aliàs Gorbonian.
Morgan.
Meriones aliàs Eighuans.
Idouallon.
Rhimo Rohugo.
Geruntius Voghen.
Catellus.
Coellus.
Pyrrho aliàs Porrex.
Cherinus.
Fulganius aliàs Sulgenis.
Eldadus.
Androgius.
Vrian.
Hellindus.
Dedantius Eldagan.
Clotenis Claten.
Gurguintus.
Merian.
Bledunus Bledagh.
Cophenis.
Owinus aliàs Oghwen.
Sisillus or Sitsiltus.
Blegabridus.
Arcimalus Archiuall.
Eldadus.
Ruthenis thrée moneths.
Rodingarus aliàs Rodericus.
Samulius Penysell.
Pyrrho 2.
Carporis aliàs Capporis.
Dynellus aliàs Dygnellus.
Hellindus a few moneths.
Lhoid.
Casibellane.
Theomantius.
Cynobellinus.
Aruiragus.
Marius.
Coelius.
Lucius.
  Hitherto I haue set foorth the catalog of the kings of Britaine, in
  such sort as it is to be collected out of the most ancient
  histories, monuments and records of the land. Now I will set foorth
  the order and succession of the Romane legates or deputies, as I
  haue borowed them first out of Tacitus, then Dion, and others:
  howbeit I cannot warrant the iust course of them from Iulius
  Agricola forward, bicause there is no man that reherseth them
  orderlie. Yet by this my dooing herein, I hope some better table may
  be framed hereafter by other, wherof I would be glad to vnderstand
  when soeuer it shall please God that it may come to passe.
Aulus Plautius.
Ostorius Scapula.
Didius Gallus.
Auitus.
Veranius a few moneths.
Petronius Turpilianus.
Trebellius Maximus.
Vectius Volanus.
Petilius Cerealis.
Iulius Frontinus.
Iulius Agricola.
  Hitherto Cornelius Tacitus reherseth these vicegerents or deputies
  in order.
Salustius Lucullus.
Cneius Trebellius.
Suetonius Paulinus.
Calphurnius Agricola.
Publius Trebellius.
Pertinax Helrius.
Vlpius Marcellus.
Clodius Albinas.
Heraclius.
Carus Tyrannus.
Iunius Seuerus, aliàs Iulius Seuerus.
Linius Gallus.
Lollius Vrbicus.
Maximus.
Octauius.
Traherus.
Maximinianus.
Gratianus.
Aetius.
  Other Legates whose names are taken out of the Scotish historie but
  in incertein order.
Fronto sub Antonino.
Publius Trebellius.
Aulus Victorinus.
Lucius Antinoris.
Quintus Bassianus.

WALES

1.

¶ The Romans not regarding the gouernance of this Iland, the Britons
  ordeine a king in the 447. after the incarnation of Christ.
Vortiger.
Vortimer.
Aurelius Ambrosius.
Vther.
Arthur.
Constantine.
Aurelius Conanus.
Vortiporius.
Maglocunus.
Caretius.
Cadwan.
Cadwallon.
Cadwallader.
¶ The kingdome of Wales ceaseth, and the gouernance of the countrie
  is translated to the Westsaxons by Inas, whose second wife was
  Denwalline the daughter of Cadwallader: & with hir he not onlie
  obteined the principalitie of Wales but also of Corinwall & Armorica
  now called little Britaine, which then was a colonie of the Britons,
  and vnder the kingdome of Wales.

KENT.

2.


SOUTHSEX.

3.

¶ Ella in the 46. after Britaine giuen ouer by the Romanes erecteth
  a kingdom in Southsex, to wit, in the 492. of Christ whose race
  succeedeth in this order.
Ella.
Cyssa.
Ceaulijn.
Celrijc.
Kilwulf.
Kinigils.
Kinwalch.
Ethelwold.
Berthun.
Aldwijn.
¶ This kingdome endured not verie long as ye may sée, for it was
  vnited to that of the Westsaxons by Inas, in the 4689. of the world,
  which was the 723. of Christ, according to the vsuall supputation of
  the church, and 232. after Ella had erected the same, as is
  aforesaid.

ESTSEX.

4.

¶ Erkenwijn in the 527. after our sauiour Christ beginneth to reigne
  ouer Estsex, and in the 81. after the returne of Britaine from the
  Romaine obedience.
Erkenwijn.
Sledda.
Sebertus.
Sepredus and Sywardus.
Sigebert fil. Syward.
Sigebert.
Swithelijn.
Sijgar and Sebba.
Sebba alone.
Sijgard.
Offa.
Selredus.
Ethelwold.
Albert.
Humbcanna.
Sinthredus.
¶ In the 303. after Erkenwijn, Ecbert of the Westsaxons vnited the
  kingdome of Estsex vnto his owne, which was in the 828. after the
  birth of our sauiour Christ. I cannot as yet find the exact yéeres
  of the later princes of this realme, and therefore I am constrained
  to omit them altogither, as I haue done before in the kings of the
  Britons, vntill such time as I may come by such monuments as may
  restore the defect.

WESTSEX.

5.

¶ Cerdijc entreth the kingdome of the Westsaxons, in the 519. of the
  birth of Christ, & 73. of the abiection of the Romaine seruitude.
Cerdijc aliàs Cercit.
Cenrijc.
Ceaulijn.
Kilriic aliàs Celrijc.
Kilwulf.
Kinigils.
Ceuwalch.
Sexburgh.
  The seat void.
Centwinus.
Cadwallader.
Inas.
Ethelard.
Cuthredus.
Sigebert.
Kinwulf.
Brithrijc.
Ecbert.
Ethelwulf.
Ethebald.
Ethelbert.
Ethelfrid.
Alfrid.
Edward I.
Adelstane.
Edmund.
Eadred.
Edwijn.
Edgar.
Edward 2.
Eldred.
Edmund 2.
Canutus.
Harald.
Canutus 2.
Edward 3.
Harald 2.
¶ The Saxons hauing reigned hitherto in this land, and brought the
  same into a perfect monarchie, are now dispossessed by the Normans,
  & put out of their hold.

BERNICIA.

6.

¶ Ida erecteth a kingdome in the North, which he extended from the
  Humber mouth to S. Johns towne in Scotland, & called it of the
  Northumbers. This was in the 547. after the birth of our sauiour
  Christ.
Ida.
Adda.
Glappa.
Tidwaldus.
Fretwulfus.
Tidrijc.
Athelfrid.
Edwijn.
Kinfrid.
Oswald.
Oswy.
Egfrid.
Alfrid.
Osred.
Kinred.
Osrijc.
Kilwulf.
Edbert.
Offulse.
Ethelwold.
Elred.
Ethelred.
Alswold.
Osred.
Ethelred.
Osbald.
Eardulf.
Aldeswold.
Eandred.
Edelred.
Redwulf.
Edelred againe.
Osbright.
Ecbert.
Ricisiuus a Dane.
Ecbert againe.
¶ Alfride king of the Westsaxons subdueth this kingdome in the 878.
  after our sauiour Christ, and and 33. after Ida.

DEIRA.

7.

¶ Ella brother to Adda is ouer the south Humbers, whose kingdome
  reched from Humber to the These, in the 590. after the incarnation
  of Jesus Christ our sauiour.
Ella.
Edwijn.
Athelbright.
Edwijn againe.
Osrijc.
Oswald.
Oswijn.
¶ Of all the kingdomes of the Saxons, this of Deira which grew by the
  diuision of the kingdome of the Northumbers betwéene the sons of Ida
  was of the smallest continuance, & it was vnited to the Northumbers
  (wherof it had bene I saie in time past a member) by Oswijn in the
  91. after Ella, when he had most traitorouslie slaine his brother
  Oswijn in the yéer of the world, 4618. (or 651. after the comming of
  Christ) and conteined that countrie which we now call the
  bishoprike.

ESTANGLIA.

8.

¶ Offa or Vffa erecteth a kingdome ouer the Estangles or Offlings in
  the 561. after the natiuitie of Christ, and 114. after the deliuerie
  of Britaine.
Offa.
Titellius.
Redwaldus.
Corpenwaldus.
  The seat void.
Sigebert.
Egricus.
Anna.
Ethelwold.
Adwulf.
Beorne.
Ethelred.
Ethelbert.
¶ Offa of Mercia killeth Ethelbert, and vniteth Estanglia vnto his
  owne kingdome, in the 793. of Christ, after it had continued in the
  posteritie of Offa, by the space of 223. yéers and yet of that short
  space, it enioyed onelie 35. in libertie, the rest being vnder the
  tribute of the king of Mercia aforesaid.

MERCIA.

9.

¶ Creodda beginneth his kingdome of Mercia, in the 585. of our sauiour
  Christ, and 138. after the captiuitie of Britaine ended.
Creodda.
Wibba.
Cherlus.
Penda.
  Oswy.
Weada.
Wulferus.
Ethelred.
Kinred or Kindred.

  The seat void.

Kilred.
Ethebald.
Beorred.
Offa.
Egferth.
Kinwulf.
Kenelme.
Kilwulf.
Bernulf.
Ludicane.
Willaf.
Ecbert.
Willaf againe.
Bertulf.
Butred.
Kilwulf.
¶ Alfride vniteth the kingdome of Mercia, to that of the Westsaxons,
  in the 291. after Creodda, before Alfred the Dane had gotten hold
  thereof, and placed one Cleolulphus therein, but he was soone
  expelled, and the kingdome ioyned to the other afore rehearsed.

 _The Succession of the kings of England from_ WILLIAM _bastard,
unto the first of Queene_ ELIZABETH.

William the first.
William his sonne.
Henrie 1.
Stephen.
Henrie 2.
Richard 1.
Iohn.
Henrie 3.
Edward 1. aliàs 4.
Edward 2.
Edward 3.
Richard 2.
  Henrie 4.
  Henrie 5.
  Henrie 6.
Edward 4. aliàs 7.
Edward 5.
  Richard 3.
Henrie 7.
Henrie 8.
Marie his sister.
Elizabeth.
¶ Thus haue I brought the Catalog of the Princes of Britaine vnto an
  end, & that in more plaine and certeine order than hath beene done
  hertofore by anie. For though in their regions since the conquest
  few men haue erred that haue vsed any diligence, yet in the times
  before the same, fewer haue gone any thing néere the truth, through
  great ouersight & negligence. Their seuerall yéeres also doo appéere
  in my Chronologie insuing.




OF THE ANCIENT RELIGION VSED IN ALBION.

CAP. IX.


It is not to be doubted, but at the first, and so long as the
[Sidenote: Samothes.]
posteritie off Iaphet onelie reigned in this Iland, that the true
knowledge and forme of religion brought in by Samothes, and published
with his lawes in the second of his arriuall, was exercised among
the Britans. And although peraduenture in proces of time, either
through curiositie, or negligence (the onelie corruptors of true
pietie and godlinesse) it might a little decaie, yet when it was
at the woorst, it farre excéeded the best of that which afterward
came in with Albion and his Cheminites, as may be gathered by view
of the superstitious rites, which Cham and his successours did
plant in other countries, yet to be found in authors.

What other learning Magus the sonne of Samothes taught after his
fathers death, when he also came to the kingdome, beside this which
concerned the true honoring of God, I cannot easilie say, but that
it should be naturall philosophie, and astrologie (whereby his
disciples gathered a kind of foreknowledge of things to come) the
verie vse of the word Magus (or Magusaeus) among the Persians dooth
yéeld no vncerteine testimonie.

[Sidenote: Sarron.]
In like maner, it should seeme that Sarron sonne vnto the said
Magus, diligentlie followed the steps of his father, and thereto
beside his owne practise of teaching, opened schooles of learning
in sundrie places, both among the Celts and Britans, whereby such
as were his auditors, grew to be called Sarronides, notwithstanding,
[Sidenote: Samothei.]
[Sidenote: Semnothei.]
that as well the Sarronides as the Magi, and Druiydes, were generallie
called Samothei, or Semnothei, of Samothes still among the Grecians,
as Aristotle in his De magia dooth confesse; and furthermore calling
them Galles, he addeth therevnto, that they first brought the
knowledge of letters and good learning vnto the Gréekes.

[Sidenote: Druiyus.]
Druiyus the son of Sarron (as a scholer of his fathers owne teaching)
séemed to be exquisit in all things, that perteined vnto the diuine
and humane knowledge: and therefore I may safelie pronounce, that
he excelled not onlie in the skill of philosophie and the quadriuials,
but also in the true Theologie, whereby the right seruice of God
was kept and preserued in puritie. He wrote moreouer sundrie precepts
and rules of religious doctrine, which among the Celts were reserued
verie religiouslie, and had in great estimation of such as sought
vnto them.

[Sidenote: Corruptors of religion.]
How and in what order this prince left the state of religion, I
meane touching publike orders in administration of particular rites
and ceremonies, as yet I doo not read: howbeit this is most certeine,
that after he died, the puritie of his doctrine began somewhat to
decaie. For such is mans nature, that it will not suffer any good
thing long to remaine as it is left, but (either by addition or
subtraction of this or that, to or from the same) so to chop and
change withall from time to time, that in the end there is nothing
of more difficultie, for such as doo come after them, than to find
out the puritie of the originall, and restore the same againe vnto
the former perfection.

[Sidenote: Caesar.]
In the beginning this Druiyus did preach vnto his hearers, that
the soule of man is immortall, that God is omnipotent, mercifull
as a father in shewing fauor vnto the godlie, and iust as an vpright
iudge in punishing the wicked; that the secrets of mans hart are
not vnknowne, and onelie knowne to him; and that as the world and
all that is therein had their beginning by him, at his owne will,
[Sidenote: _Strabo. li. 4._]
[Sidenote: _Socion. lib. success._]
[Sidenote: _Cicero diuinal. I._]
so shall all things likewise haue an end, when he shall see his
time. He taught them also with more facilitie, how to obserue the
courses of the heauens and motions of the planets by arithmeticall
industrie, to find out the true quantities of the celestiall bodies
by geometricall demonstration, and thereto the compasse of the
earth, and hidden natures of things contained in the same by
philosophicall contemplation. But alas, this integritie continued
not long among his successors, for vnto the immortalitie of the
soule, they added, that after death it went into another bodie,
(of which translation Ouid saith;

  Morte carent animae, sempérque priore relicta
  Sede, nouis domibus viuunt habitántque receptae.)

The second or succedent, being alwaies either more noble, or more
vile than the former, as the partie deserued by his merits, whilest
he liued here vpon earth. And therefore it is said by Plato and
other, that Orpheus after his death had his soule thrust into the
bodie of a swanne, that of Agamemnon conueied into an egle, of Aiax
into a lion, of Atlas into a certeine wrestler, of Thersites into
an ape, of Deiphobus into Pythagoras, and Empedocles dieng a child,
after sundrie changes into a man, whereof he himselfe saith;

  Ipse ego námq; fui puer olim, deinde puella,
  Arbustum & volucris, mutus quóq; in aequore piscis.

[Sidenote: _Plinius, lib. 16. cap. vltimo._]
For said they (of whom Pythagoras also had, and taught this errour)
if the soule apperteined at the first to a king, and he in this
estate did not leade his life worthie his calling, it should after
his decease be shut vp in the bodie of a slaue, begger, cocke,
[Sidenote: Metempsuchôsis.]
owle, dog, ape, horsse, asse, worme, or monster, there to remaine
as in a place of purgation and punishment, for a certeine period
of time. Beside this, it should peraduenture susteine often
translation from one bodie vnto another, according to the quantitie
and qualitie of his dooings here on earth, till it should finallie
be purified, and restored againe to an other humane bodie, wherein
if it behaued it selfe more orderlie than at the first: after the
next death, it should be preferred, either to the bodie of a king
againe, or other great estate. And thus they made a perpetuall
circulation or reuolution of our soules, much like vnto the continuall
motion of the heauens, which neuer stand still, nor long yeeld one
representation and figure. For this cause also, as Diodorus saith,
they vsed to cast certeine letters into the fire, wherein the dead
were burned, to be deliuered vnto their deceased fréends, whereby
they might vnderstand of the estate of such as trauelled here on
earth in their purgations (as the Moscouits doo write vnto S.
Nicholas to be a speach-man for him that is buried, in whose hand
they bind a letter, and send him with a new paire of shooes on his
feet into the graue) and to the end that after their next death
they should deale with them accordinglie, and as their merits
required. They brought in also the worshipping of manie gods, and
[Sidenote: Oke honored whereon mistle did grow, and so doo our
sourcerers euen to this daie thinking some spirits to deale about ye
same, for hidden treasure.]
their seuerall sacrifices: they honoured likewise the oke, whereon
the mistle groweth, and dailie deuised infinit other toies (for
errour is neuer assured of hir owne dooings) whereof neither
Samothes, nor Sarron, Magus, nor Druiyus did leaue them anie
prescription.

These things are partlie touched by Cicero, Strabo, Plinie, Sotion,
Laertius, Theophrast, Aristotle, and partlie also by Caesar, Mela,
Val. Max. lib. 2. and other authors of later time, who for the most
part doo confesse, that the cheefe schoole of the Druiydes was
holden here in Britaine, where that religion (saith Plinie) was so
hotlie professed and followed, "Vt dedisse Persis videri possit,"
lib. 30. cap. 1. and whither the Druiydes also themselues, that
dwelt among the Galles, would often resort to come by the more
skill, and sure vnderstanding of the mysteries of that doctrine.
And as the Galles receiued their religion from the Britons, so we
likewise had from them some vse of Logike & Rhetorike, such as it
[Sidenote: Logike and Rhetorike out of Gallia.]
was which our lawiers practised in their plees and common causes.
For although the Greeks were not vnknowne vnto vs, nor we to them,
euen from the verie comming of Brute, yet by reason of distance
betwéene our countries, we had no great familiaritie and common
accesse one vnto another, till the time of Gurguntius, after whose
entrance manie of that nation trauelled hither in more securitie,
as diuers of our countriemen did vnto them without all danger, to
be offered vp in sacrifice to their gods. That we had the maner of
our plees also out of France, Iuuenal is a witnesse, who saith;

  Gallia causidicos docuit facunda Britannos.

Howbeit as they taught vs Logike and Rhetorike, so we had also some
Sophistrie from them; but in the worst sense: for from France is
all kind of forgerie, corruption of maners, and craftie behauiour
not so soone as often transported into England. And albeit the
Druiydes were thus honored and of so great authoritie in Britaine,
yet were there great numbers of them also in the Iles of Wight,
Anglesey, and the Orchades, in which they held open schooles of
their profession, aloofe as it were from the resort of people,
wherein they studied and learned their songs by heart. Howbeit the
cheefe college of all I say, remained still in Albion, whither the
Druiydes of other nations also (beside the Galles) would of custome
repaire, when soeuer anie controuersie among them in matters of
religion did happen to be mooued. At such times also the rest were
called out of the former Ilands, whereby it appeareth that in such
cases they had their synods and publike meetings, and therevnto it
grew finallie into custome, and after that a prouerbe, euen in
variances falling out among the princes, great men, and common
sorts of people liuing in these weast parts of Europe, to yeeld to
be tried by Britaine and hir thrée Ilands, bicause they honoured
hir préests (the Druiydes) as the Athenians did their Areopagites.

[Sidenote: Estimation of the Druiydes or Druiysh preests.]
Furthermore, in Britaine, and among the Galles, and to say the
truth, generallie in all places where the Druiysh religion was
frequented, such was the estimation of the préests of this profession,
that there was little or nothing doone without their skilfull
aduise, no not in ciuil causes, perteining to the regiment of the
common-wealth and countrie. They had the charge also of all
sacrifices, publike and priuate, they interpreted oracles, preached
of religion, and were neuer without great numbers of yoong men that
heard them with diligence, as they taught from time to time.

[Sidenote: Immunitie of the cleargie greater vnder idolatrie than
vnder the gospell.]
Touching their persons also they were exempt from all temporall
seruices, impositions, tributes, and exercises of the wars: which
immunitie caused the greater companies of scholers to flocke vnto
them from all places, & to learne their trades. Of these likewise,
some remained with them seuen, eight, ten, or twelue years, still
learning the secrets of those vnwritten mysteries by heart, which
were to be had amongst them, and commonlie pronounced in verse.
And this policie, as I take it, they vsed onelie to preserue their
religion from contempt, whereinto it might easilie haue fallen, if
any books thereof had happened into the hands of the common sort.
It helped also not a little in the exercise of their memories,
wherevnto bookes are vtter enimies, insomuch as he that was skilfull
in the Druiysh religion, would not let readilie to rehearse manie
hundreds of verses togither, and not to faile in one tittle, in
the whole processe of this his laborious repetition. But as they
dealt in this order for matters of their religion, so in ciuill
affairs, historicall treatises, and setting downe of lawes, they
vsed like order and letters almost with the Grecians. Whereby it
is easie to be séene, that they reteined this kind of writing from
Druiyus (the originall founder of their religion) and that this
Iland hath not béene void of letters and learned men, euen sith it
was first inhabited. I would ad some thing in particular also of
their apparell, but sith the dealing withall is nothing profitable
to the reader, I passe it ouer, signifieng neuerthelesse, that it
was distinguished by sundrie deuises from that of the common sort,
and of such estimation among the people, that whosoeuer ware the
Druiysh weed, might walke where he would without any harme or
annoiance. This honour was giuen also vnto the préests in Rome,
insomuch that when Volusius was exiled by the Triumuirate, and saw
himselfe in such danger, as that he could not escape the hardest,
he gat the wéed of a preest upon his backe, and begged his almes
therein, euen in the high waies as he trauelled, and so escaped
the danger and the furie of his aduersaries: but to proceed with
other things.

[Sidenote: Bardus.]
After the death of Druiyus, Bardus his sonne, and fift king of the
Celts, succéeded not onelie ouer the said kingdome, but also in
his fathers vertues, whereby it is verie likelie, that the winding
and wrapping vp of the said religion, after the afore remembred
sort into verse, was first deuised by him, for he was an excellent
poet, and no lesse indued with a singular skill in the practise
[Sidenote: _Gen. 4. 21._]
and speculation of musicke, of which two many suppose him to be
the verie author and beginner, although vniustlie, sith both poetrie
and song were in vse before the flood, as was also the harpe and
pipe, which Iubal inuented, and could neuer be performed without
great skill in musicke. But to procéed, as the cheefe estimation
of the Druiydes remained in the end among the Britons onelie, for
their knowledge in religion, so did the fame of the Bardes (which
were so called of this Bardus for their excellent skill in musicke,
poetrie, and the heroicall kind of song, which at the first conteined
onelie the high mysteries and secret points of their religion.
[Sidenote: The Bards degenerate.]
There was little difference also betwéene them and the Druiydes,
till they so farre degenerated from their first institution, that
they became to be minstrels at feasts, droonken meetings, and
abhominable sacrifices of the idols: where they sang most commonlie
no diuinitie as before, but the puissant acts of valiant princes,
and fabulous narrations of the adulteries of the gods. Certes in
my time this fond vsage, and thereto the verie name of the Bardes,
are not yet extinguished among the Britons of Wales, where they
call their poets and musicians Barthes, as they doo also in Ireland:
which Sulpitius also writing to Lucane remembreth, where he saith
that the word Bardus is meere Celtike, and signifieth a singer.
Howbeit the Romans iudging all nations beside themselues to be but
rude and barbarous, and thereto misliking vtterlie the rough musicke
of the Bardes, entred so farre into the contemptuous mockage of
their melodie, that they ascribed the word Bardus vnto their fooles
and idiots, whereas contrariwise the Scythians and such as dwell
within the northweast part of Europe, did vse the same word in
verie honourable maner, calling their best poets and heroicall
singers, Singebardos; their couragious singers and capiteins that
delited in musicke, Albardos, Dagobardos, Rodtbardos, & one lame
musician Lambard aboue all other, of whose skilfull ditties Germanie
is not vnfurnished, as I heare vnto this daie. In Quizqueia or new
Spaine, an Iland of the Indies, they call such men Boitios, their
rimes Arcitos, and in steed of harps they sing vnto timbrels made
of shels such sonnets and ditties as either perteine vnto religion,
prophane loue, commendation of ancestrie, and inflammation of the
mind vnto Mars, whereby there appeareth to be small difference
betwéene their Boitios and our Bardes. Finallie of our sort, Lucane
in his first booke writeth thus, among other like saiengs well
toward the latter end;

[Sidenote: _Lucan. li. 1._*]
  Vos quóq; qui fortes animas, bellóq; peremptas
  Laudibus in longum vates dimittitis aeuum,
  Plurima securi fudistis carmina Bardi.
  Et vos barbaricos ritus, morémque sinistrum
  Sacrorum Druiydae, positis recepistis ab armis.
  Solis nosse Deos, & coeli numina vobis,
  Aut solis nescire datum: nemora alta remotis
  Incolitis lucis. Vobis authoribus, vmbrae
  Non tacitas Erebi sedes, Ditisque profundi
  Pallida regna petunt, regit idem spiritus artus
  Orbe alio. Longae canitis si cognita, vitae
  Mors media est, certe populi, quos despicit arctos,
  Foelices errore suo, quos ille timorum
  Maximus haud vrget leti metus: inde ruendi
  In ferrum mens prona viris, animaeque capaces
  Mortis: & ignauum est rediturae parcere vitae.

Thus we sée as in a glasse the state of religion, for a time, after
the first inhabitation of this Iland: but how long it continued in
such soundnesse, as the originall authors left it, in good sooth
I cannot say, yet this is most certeine, that after a time, when
Albion arriued here, the religion earst imbraced fell into great
decaie. For whereas Iaphet & Samothes with their children taught
nothing else than such doctrine as they had learned of Noah: Cham
the great grandfather of this our Albion, and his disciples vtterlie
renouncing to follow their steps, gaue their minds wholie to seduce
and lead their hearers headlong vnto all error. Whereby his posteritie
not onelie corrupted this our Iland, with most filthie trades and
practises; but also all mankind, generallie where they became, with
[Sidenote: What doctrine Cham and his disciples taught.]
vicious life, and most vngodlie conuersation. For from Cham and
his successours procéeded at the first all sorcerie, witchcraft,
and the execution of vnlawful lust, without respect of sex, age,
consanguinitie, or kind: as branches from an odious and abhominable
root, or streames deriued from a most filthie and horrible stinking
puddle. Howbeit, & notwithstanding all these his manifold lewdnesses,
such was the follie of his Aegyptians (where he first reigned and
taught) that whilest he liued they alone had him in great estimation
[Sidenote: Chemesenua.]
(whereas other nations contemned and abhorred him for his wickednesse,
calling him Chemesenua, that is, the impudent, infamous and wicked
[Sidenote: Chem Min.]
[Sidenote: Cham made a god.]
Cham) and not onelie builded a citie vnto him which they called
Chem Min, but also after his death reputed him for a god, calling
the highest of the seuen planets after his name, as they did the
next beneath it after Osyris his sonne, whom they likewise honored
vnder the name of Iupiter.

[Sidenote: Translation of mortall men into heauen how it began.]
Certes it was a custome begonne in Aegypt of old time, and generallie
in vse almost in euerie place in processe of time (when any of
their famous worthie princes died) to ascribe some forme or other
of the stars vnto his person, to the end his name might neuer weare
out of memorie. And this they called their translation in heauen,
so that he which had any starres or forme of starres dedicated vnto
him, was properlie said to haue a seat among the gods. A toie much
like to the catalog of Romish saints, (although the one was written
in the celestiall or immateriall orbes, the other in sheeps skins,
and verie brickle paper) but yet so estéemed, that euerie prince
would oft hazard and attempt the vttermost aduentures, thereby to
win such fame in his life, that after his death he might by merit
haue such place in heauen, among the shining starres. Howbeit,
euerie of those that were called gods, could not obteine that
benefit, for then should there not haue beene stars enow in heauen
to haue serued all their turnes, wherfore another place was in time
imagined, where they reigned that were of a second calling, as the
[Sidenote: _Cyril. aduersus Iul. lib. 6. sect. 8._]
Semones who were gods by grace and fauour of the people. "Semones
dici voluerunt (saith Fulgentius In vocibus antiquis) quos coelo
nec dignos ascriberent, ob meriti paupertatem; sicut Priapus Hyppo.
Vortumnus, &c. nec terrenos eos deputare vellent per gratiae
venerationem," as also a third place that is to say an earth, where
those gods dwelled which were noble men, officers, good gouernours
and lawgiuers to the people, and yet not thought worthie to be of
the second or first companie, which was a iollie diuision.

Thus we sée in generall maner, how idolatrie, honoring of the
starres, and brood of inferiour gods were hatched at the first,
which follies in processe of time came also into Britaine, as did
the names of Saturne & Iupiter, &c: as shall appeare hereafter.
And here sith I haue alreadie somewhat digressed from my matter,
I will go yet a little farder, and shew foorth the originall vse
of the word Saturne, Iupiter, Hercules, &c: whereby your Honor
shall sée a little more into the errours of the Gentils, and not
onelie that, but one point also of the root of all the confusion
[Sidenote: Which were properlie called Saturni, Ioues, Iunones, and
Hercules.]
that is to be found among the ancient histories. Certes it was
vsed for a few yéeres after the partition of the earth (which was
made by Noah, in the 133. yeere after the floud) that the beginners
of such kingdoms as were then erected should be called Saturni,
whereby it came to passe that Nimbrote was the Saturne of Babylon:
Cham of Aegypt: and so foorth other of sundrie other countries.
Their eldest sonnes also that succeeded them, were called Ioues;
and their nephewes or sonnes sonnes, which reigned in the third
place Hercules, by which meanes it followed that euerie kingdome
had a Saturne, Iupiter and Hercules of hir owne, and not from anie
other.

In like sort they had such another order among their daughters,
whom they married as yet commonlie vnto their brethren (God himselfe
permitting the same vnto them for a time) as before the floud, to
the end the earth might be thoroughlie replenished, and the sooner
[Sidenote: Isis, Io and Iuno all one.]
furnished with inhabitants in euerie part therof. The sister
therefore and wife of euerie Saturne was called Rhea, but of Iupiter,
Iuno, Isis, or Io. Beyond these also there was no latter Harold
that would indeuour to deriue the petigree of any prince, or
potentate, but supposed his dutie to be sufficientlie performed,
when he had brought it orderlie vnto some Saturne or other, wherat
he might cease, and shut vp all his trauell. They had likewise
this opinion grounded amongst them, that heauen & earth were onlie
parents vnto Saturne and Rhea, not knowing out of doubt, what they
[Sidenote: Coelum or Coelus.]
[Sidenote: Ogyges.]
themselues did meane, sith these denominations, Heauen, Ogyges,
[Sidenote: Sol.]
[Sidenote: Pater deorum.]
the Sunne, Pater Deorum, and such like, were onelie ascribed vnto
[Sidenote: *Tydea.]
[Sidenote: Terra.]
[Sidenote: Vesta.]
[Sidenote: Aretia.]
[Sidenote: Luna.]
[Sidenote: Deorum mater.]
Noah: as *Terra, (the Earth) Vesta, Aretia, the Moone, Mater
deorum, and other the like were vnto Tydea his wife. So that hereby
we sée, how Saturne is reputed in euerie nation for their oldest
god, or first prince, Iupiter for the next, and Hercules for the
third. And therefore sith these names were dispersed in the beginning
ouer all, it is no maruell that there is such confusion in ancient
histories, and the dooings of one of them so mixed with those of
another, that it is now impossible to distinguish them in sunder.
This haue I spoken, to the end that all men may see what gods the
Pagans honored, & thereby what religion the posteritie of Cham did
bring ouer into Britaine. For vntill their comming, it is not
likelie that anie grosse idolatrie or superstition did enter in
among vs, as deifieng of mortall men, honoring of the starres, and
[Sidenote: From whence Brute did learne his religion.]
erection of huge images, beside sorcerie, witchcraft, and such
like, whereof the Chemminites are worthilie called the autors.
Neither were these errors anie thing amended, by the comming in of
Brute, who no doubt added such deuises vnto the same, as he and
his companie had learned before in Graecia, from whence also he
brought Helenus the sonne of Priamus, (a man of excéeding age) &
made him his préest and bishop thorough out the new conquest, that
he had atchieued in Britaine.

[Sidenote: Dis or Samothes made a god.]
After Brute, idolatrie and superstition still increased more and
more among vs, insomuch that beside the Druiysh and Bardike
ceremonies, and those also that came in with Albion and Brute
himselfe: our countriemen either brought hither from abroad, or
dailie inuented at home new religion and rites, whereby it came to
passe that in the stead of the onelie and immortall God (of whom
Samothes and his posteritie did preach in times past) now they
honored the said Samothes himselfe vnder the name of Dis and Saturne:
also Iupiter, Mars, Minerua, Mercurie, Apollo, Diana; and finallie
Hercules, vnto whome they dedicated the gates and porches of their
temples, entrances into their regions, cities, townes and houses,
with their limits and bounds (as the papists did the gates of their
cities and ports vnto Botulph & Giles) bicause fortitude and wisedome
are the cheefe vpholders and bearers vp of common-wealths and
kingdoms, both which they ascribed to Hercules (forgetting God)
[Sidenote: _Mela._]
[Sidenote: _Diodorus._]
[Sidenote: _Strab. 4._]
[Sidenote: _Plin._]
[Sidenote: _Caesar. 5._]
and diuers other idols whose names I now remember not. In lieu
moreouer of sheepe and oxen, they offred mankind also vnto some of
them, killing their offendors, prisoners, and oft such strangers
as came from farre vnto them, by shutting vp great numbers of them
togither in huge images made of wicker, réed, haie, or other light
matter: and then setting all on fire togither, they not onelie
consumed the miserable creatures to ashes (sometimes adding other
beasts vnto them) but also reputed it to be the most acceptable
sacrifice that could be made vnto their idols. From whence they
had this horrible custome, trulie I cannot tell, but that it was
common to most nations, not onlie to consume their strangers,
captiues, &c; but also their owne children with fire, in such maner
of sacrifice: beside the text of the Bible, the prophane histories
doo generallie leaue it euident, as a thing either of custome or
of particular necessitie, of which later Virgil saith;

  Sanguine placastis ventos & virgine caesa, &c.

As Silius dooth of the first, where he telleth of the vsuall maner
of the Carthaginenses, saieng after this maner;

  Vrna reducebat miserandos annua casus, &c.

But to procéed with our owne gods and idols, more pertinent to my
purpose than the rehersall of forreine demeanours: I find that huge
temples in like sort were builded vnto them, so that in the time
[Sidenote: _Ptol. Lucensis._]
of Lucius, when the light of saluation began stronglie to shine in
Britaine, thorough the preaching of the gospell, the christians
discouered 25. Flamines or idol-churches, beside three Archflamines,
whose préests were then as our Archbishops are now, in that they
had superior charge of all the rest, the other being reputed as
inferiours, and subiect to their iurisdiction in cases of religion,
and superstitious ceremonies.

[Sidenote: Monstrous proportions of idols.]
Of the quantities of their idols I speake not, sith it is inough
to saie, that they were monstrous, and that each nation contended
which should honour the greater blocks, and yet all pretending to
haue the iust heigth of the god or goddesse whom they did represent.
Apollo Capitolinus that stood at Rome, was thirtie cubits high at
the least; Tarentinus Iupiter of 40.; the idoll of the sonne in
the Rhodes, of 70 (whose toe few men could fadam;) Tuscanus Apollo
that stood in the librarie of the temple of Augustus, of 50. foot;
another made vnder Nero of 110. foot; but one in France passed all,
which Zenoduris made vnto Mercurie at Aruernum in ten years space,
of 400. foot. Wherby it appeareth, that as they were void of
moderation in number of gods, so without measure were they also in
their proportions, and happie was he which might haue the greatest
idoll, and lay most cost thereon.

Hitherto yee haue heard of the time, wherein idolatrie reigned and
blinded the harts of such as dwelled in this Iland. Now let vs sée
the successe of the gospell, after the death and passion of Iesus
Christ our sauiour. And euen here would I begin with an allegation
[Sidenote: _Theodoret._]
of Theodoret, wherevpon some repose great assurance (conceiuing
[Sidenote: _Sophronius._]
yet more hope therein by the words of Sophronius) that Paule the
Apostle should preach the word of saluation here, after his deliuerie
out of captiuitie, which fell as I doo read in the 57. of Christ.
But sith I cannot verifie the same by the words of Theodoret, to
be spoken more of Paule than Peter, or the rest, I will passe ouer
this coniecture (so far as it is grounded vpon Theodoret) and deale
with other authorities, whereof we haue more certeintie. First of
all therfore let vs see what Fortunatus hath written of Pauls
comming into Britaine, and afterward what is to be found of other
by-writers in other points of more assurance. Certes for the presence
of Paule I read thus much:

  Quid sacer ille simul Paulus tuba gentibus ampla,
  Per mare per terras Christi praeconia fundens,
  Europam & Asiam, Lybiam, sale dogmata complens,
  Arctos, meridies, hic plenus vesper & ortus,
  Transit & Oceanum, vel qua facit insula portum,
  Quásq; Britannus habet terras atque vltima Thule, &c.

[Sidenote: Iosephus.]
That one Iosephus preached here in England, in the time of the
Apostles, his sepulchre yet in Aualon, now called Glessenburg or
Glastenburie, an epitaph affixed therevnto is proofe sufficient.
Howbeit, sith these things are not of competent force to persuade
all men, I will ad in few, what I haue read elsewhere of his arriuall
here. First of all therefore you shall note that he came ouer into
Britaine, about the 64. after Christ, when the persecution began
vnder Nero, at which time Philip and diuers of the godlie being in
France (whether he came with other christians, after they had sowed
the word of God in Scythia, by the space of 9. yeares) seuered
themselues in sunder, to make the better shift for their owne
safegard, and yet not otherwise than by their flight, the gospell
[Sidenote: _Philip. Freculphus. To. 2. lib. 2. cap. 4._]
[Sidenote: _Nennius._]
[Sidenote: _Nicephorus lib. 2. cap. 40._]
[Sidenote: _Isidorus lib. de vita & obit. dict. patrum._]
[Sidenote: _W. Malmes de antiq. Glasconici monast._]
might haue due furtherance. Hereby then it came to passe, that
the said Philip vpon good deliberation did send Iosephus ouer, and
with him Simon Zelotes to preach vnto the Britons, and minister
the sacraments there according to the rites of the churches of Asia
and Greece, from whence they came not long before vnto the countrie
of the Galles. Which was saith Malmesburie 103. before Faganus and
Dinaw did set foorth the gospell amongst them. Of the comming of
Zelotes you may read more in the second booke of Niceph. Cal. where
he writeth thereof in this maner: "Operaepretium etiam fuerit
Simonem Cana Galileae ortum, qui propter flagrantem in magistrum
suum ardorem, summámq; euangelicae rei per omnia curam Zelotes
cognominatus est hîc referre, accepit enim is coelitùs adueniente
spiritu sancto, Aegyptium Cyrenem & Africam, deinde Mauritaniam &
Lybiam omnem euangelium depraedicans percurrit, eandemque doctrinam
etiam ad occidentalem Oceanum insulásque Britannicas perfert." And
this is the effect in a little roome, of that which I haue read at
large in sundrie writers, beside these two here alledged, although
it may well be gathered that diuers Britains were conuerted to the
faith, before this sixtie foure of Christ. Howbeit, whereas some
write that they liued, and dwelled in Britaine, it cannot as yet
take any absolute hold in my iudgement, but rather that they were
[Sidenote: Claudia Rufina a British ladie.]
baptised and remained, either in Rome, or else-where. And of this
sort I suppose Claudia Rufina the wife of Pudens to be one, who
was a British ladie indeed, and not onelie excellentlie séene in
the Gréeke and Latine toongs, but also with hir husband highlie
commended by S. Paule, as one hauing had conuersation and conference
with them at Rome, from whence he did write his second epistle vnto
[Sidenote: _1. Tim. 4._]
Timothie, as I read. Of this ladie moreouer Martial speaketh, in
reioising that his poesies were read also in Britaine, and onelie
by hir meanes, who vsed to cull out the finest & honestest of his
epigrams and send them to hir fréends for tokens, saieng after this
maner, as himselfe dooth set it downe:

  Dicitur & nostros cantare Britannia versus.

Furthermore making mention of hir and hir issue, he addeth these
words:

[Sidenote: _Li. 11. Epig. 54._]
  Claudia coeruleis cùm sit Rufina Britannis
    Edita, cur Latiae pectora plebis habet?
  Quale decus formae? Romanam credere matres
    Italides possunt, Atthides esse suam.
  Dij bene, quod sancto peperit faecunda marito,
    Quot sperat, generos, quótque puella nurus.
  Sic placeat superis, vt coniuge gaudeat vno,
    Et semper natis gaudeat illa tribus.

The names of hir thrée children were Prudentiana, Praxedes, both
virgins, and Nouatus, who after the death of Pudens their father
(which befell him in Cappadocia) dwelled with their mother in
Vmbria, where they ceased not from time to time to minister vnto
the saints. But to leaue this impertinent discourse, and proceed
with my purpose.

I find in the Chronicles of Burton (vnder the yeare of Grace 141,
and time of Hadrian the emperour) that nine scholers or clerkes of
Grantha or Granta (now Cambridge) were baptised in Britaine, and
became preachers of the gospell there, but whether Taurinus bishop
or elder ouer the congregation at Yorke (who as Vincentius saith,
was executed about this time for his faith) were one of them or
[Sidenote: _Lib. 10 cap. 17._ Taurinus.]
not, as yet I do not certeinlie find; but rather the contrarie,
which is that he was no Britaine at all, but Episcopus Ebroicensis,
for which such as perceiue not the easie corruption of the word,
may soone write Eboracensis as certeinlie mine author out of whom
I alledge this authoritie hath done before me. For Vincentius saith
flat otherwise, and therefore the Chronologie if it speake of anie
Taurinus bishop of Yorke is to be reformed in that behalfe. Diuers
other also imbraced the religion of Christ verie zealouslie before
these men. Howbeit, all this notwithstanding, the glad tidings of
the gospell had neuer free and open passage here, vntill the time
of Lucius, in which the verie enimies of the word became the apparent
meanes (contrarie to their owne minds) to haue it set foorth amongst
vs. For when Antoninus the emperour had giuen out a decrée, that
the Druiysh religion should euerie where be abolished, Lucius the
king (whose surname is now perished) tooke aduise of his councell
[Sidenote: Lucius openeth his ears to good counsell, as one desirous
to serue God & not prefer the world.]
what was best to be doone, & wrote in this behalfe. And this did
Lucius, bicause he knew it [*]impossible for man liue long without
[Sidenote *: This is contrarie to the common talke of our Atheists who
say, Let us liue here in wealth, credit and authoritie vpon earth, and
let God take heauen and his religion to himselfe to doo withall what
he listeth.]
any religion at all: finallie finding his Nobilitie & subiects
vtter enemies to the Romane deuotion (for that they made so many
gods as they listed, & some to haue the regiment euen of their dirt
& dung) and thervnto being pricked forwards by such christians as
were conuersant about him, to choose the seruice of the true God
that liueth for euer, rather than the slauish seruitude of any
pagan idoll: he fullie resolued with himselfe in the end, to receiue
and imbrace the gospell of Christ. He sent also two of his best
learned and greatest philosophers to Rome, vnto Eleutherus then
bishop there in the 177. of Christ, not to promise any subiection
to his sea, which then was not required, but to say with such as
were pricked in mind, Acts. 2. verse. 37. "Quid faciemus viri
fratres?" I meane that they were sent to be perfectlie instructed,
and with farther commission, to make earnest request vnto him and
the congregation there, that a competent number of preachers might
be sent ouer from thence, by whose diligent aduise and trauell,
the foundation of the gospell might surelie be laid ouer all the
portion of the Ile, which contained his kingdome, according to his
mind.

[Sidenote: The purpose of Lucius opened vnto the congregation at Rome
by Eleutherus.]
When Eleutherus vnderstood these things, he reioiced not a little
for the great goodnesse, which the Lord had shewed vpon this our
Ile and countrie. Afterwards calling the brethren togither, they
agréed to ordeine, euen those two for bishops, whom Lucius as you
haue heard, had directed ouer vnto them. Finallie after they had
thoroughlie catechized them, making generall praier vnto God and
earnest supplication for the good successe of these men, they sent
them home againe with no small charge, that they should be diligent
in their function, and carefull ouer the flocke committed to their
custodie.

The first of these was called Eluanus Aualonius, a man borne in
the Ile of Aualon, and brought up there vnder those godlie pastours
and their disciples, whom Philip sent ouer at the first for the
conuersion of the Britons. The other hight Medguinus, and was
thereto surnamed Belga, bicause he was of the towne of Welles,
which then was called Belga. This man was trained vp also in one
schoole with Eluanus, both of them being ornaments to their horie
ages, and men of such grauitie and godlinesse, that Eleutherus
supposed none more worthie to support this charge, than they:
[Sidenote: A zealous prince maketh feruent subiects.]
after whose comming home also, it was not long yer Lucius and all
his houshold with diuers of the Nobilitie were baptised, beside
infinit numbers of the common people, which dailie resorted vnto
them, and voluntarilie renounced all their idolatrie and paganisme.

In the meane time, Eleutherus vnderstanding the successe of these
learned doctours, and supposing with himselfe, that they two onlie
could not suffice to support so great a charge as should concerne
the conuersion of the whole Iland; he directed ouer vnto them in
[Sidenote: Faganus.]
[Sidenote: Dinauus.]
[Sidenote: Aaron.]
the yeare insuing Faganus, Dinaw (or Dinauus) Aaron, and diuerse
other godlie preachers, as fellow-labourers to trauell with them
[Sidenote: _Radulphus de la noir aliàs Niger._]
[Sidenote: 3. Cheefe Bishops in Britaine.]
in the vineyard of the Lord. These men therefore after their
comming hither, consulted with the other, and foorthwith who
lieconsented to make a diuision of this Iland amongst themselues,
appointing what parcell each preacher should take, that with the
more profit and ease of the people, and somewhat lesse trauell also
for themselues, the doctrine of the Gospell might be preached and
[Sidenote: Theonus.]
[Sidenote: Theodosius.]
[Sidenote: London.]
[Sidenote: Yorke.]
[Sidenote: Caerlheon.]
receiued. In this distribution, they ordeined that there should be
one congregation at London, where they placed Theonus as chéefe
elder and bishop, for that present time, worthilie called Theonus.
I. for there was another of that name who fled into Wales with
Thadiocus of Yorke, at the first comming of the Saxons; and also
Guthelmus, who went (as I read) into Armorica, there to craue aid
against the Scots and Vandals that plagued this Ile, from the Twede
vnto the Humber. After this Theonus also Eluanus succéeded, who
conuerted manie of the Druiydes, and builded the first librarie
neere vnto the bishops palace. The said Lucius also placed another
at Yorke, whither they appointed Theodosius: and the third at
Caerlheon vpon the riuer Vske, builded sometimes by Belinus, and
called Glamorgantia, but now Chester (in which three cities there
had before time beene thrée Archflamines erected vnto Apollo, Mars,
and Minerua, but now raced to the ground, and three other churches
builded in their steeds by Lucius) to the end that the countries
round about might haue indifferent accesse vnto those places, and
therewithall vnderstand for certeintie, whither to resort for
resolution, if after their conuersion they should happen to doubt
of any thing. In like sort also the rest of the idoll-temples
standing in other places were either ouerthrowne, or conuerted into
churches for christian congregations to assemble in, as our writers
doo remember. In the report whereof giue me leaue gentle reader,
of London my natiue citie to speake a little: for although it may
and dooth seeme impertinent to my purpose, yet it shall not be
much, and therefore I will soone make an end. There is a controuersie
moued among our historiographers, whether the church that Lucius
builded at London stood at Westminster, or in Cornehill. For there
is some cause, why the metropolitane church should be thought to
stand where S. Peters now doth, by the space of 400. & od yéeres
before it was remoued to Canturburie by Austine the monke, if a
man should leane to one side without anie conference of the
asseuerations of the other. But herin (as I take it) there lurketh
some scruple, for beside that S. Peters church stood in the east
end of the citie, and that of Apollo in the west, the word Cornehill
(a denomination giuen of late to speake of to one street) may
easilie be mistaken for Thorney. For as the word Thorney proceedeth
from the Saxons, who called the west end of the citie by that name,
where Westminster now standeth, bicause of the wildnesse and
bushinesse of the soile; so I doo not read of anie stréete in London
called Cornehill before the conquest of the Normans. Wherfore I
hold with them, which make Westminster to be the place where Lucius
builded his church vpon the ruines of that Flamine 264. yeeres, as
Malmesburie saith, before the comming of the Saxons, and 411.
before the arriuall of Augustine. Read also his appendix in lib.
4. Pontif. where he noteth the time of the Saxons, in the 449. of
Grace, and of Augustine in the 596. of Christ; which is a manifest
accompt, though some copies haue 499. for the one, but not without
manifest corruption and error.

[Sidenote: Britaine the first prouince that receiued the Gospell
generallie.]
Thus became Britaine the first prouince that generallie receiued
the faith, and where the gospell was freelie preached without
inhibition of hir prince. Howbeit, although that Lucius and his
princes and great numbers of his people imbraced the word with
gréedinesse, yet was not the successe thereof either so vniuersall,
that all men beleeued at the first; the securitie so great, as that
no persecution was to be feared from the Romane empire after his
decease; or the procéeding of the king so seuere, as that he inforced
any man by publike authoritie to forsake and relinquish his paganisme:
but onelie this fréedome was enioied, that who so would become a
christian in his time, might without feare of his lawes professe
the Gospell, in whose testimonie, if néed had béene, I doubt not
[Sidenote: Emerita neece vnto Lucius.]
to affirme, but that he would haue shed also his bloud, as did his
neece Emerita, who being constant aboue the common sort of women,
refused not after his decease by fire, to yeeld hir selfe to death,
as a swéet smelling sacrifice in the nostrels of the Lord, beyond
the sea in France.

[Sidenote: Lucius sendeth againe to Rome.]
The faith of Christ being thus planted in this Iland in the 177.
after Christ, and Faganus and Dinaw with the rest sent ouer from
Rome, in the 178. as you haue heard: it came to passe in the third
yeare of the Gospell receiued, that Lucius did send againe to
Eleutherus the bishop, requiring that he might haue some breefe
epitome of the order of discipline then vsed in the church. For he
well considered, that as it auaileth litle to plant a costlie
vineyard, except it afterward be cherished, kept in good order,
and such things as annoie, dailie remooued from the same: so after
baptisme and entrance into religion, it profiteth little to beare
the name of christians, except we doo walke in the spirit, and haue
such things as offend apparentlie, corrected by seuere discipline.
[Sidenote: _Ro. 3. ver. 1._]
For otherwise it will come to passe, that the wéedes of vice, and
vicious liuing, will so quicklie abound in vs, that they will in
the end choke vp the good séed sowne in our minds, and either
inforce vs to returne vnto our former wickednesse with déeper
securitie than before, or else to become meere Atheists, which is
a great deale woorse.

For this cause therefore did Lucius send to Rome, the second time,
for a copie of such politike orders as were then vsed there, in
[Sidenote: The wisedome of Eleutherus.]
their regiment of the church. But Eleutherus considering with
himselfe, how that all nations are not of like condition, and
therefore those constitutions that are beneficiall to one, may now
and then be preiudiciall to another: and seeing also that beside
the word no rites and orders can long continue, or be so perfect
in all points, but that as time serueth, they will require alteration:
he thought it best not to laie any more vpon the necks of the new
conuerts of Britaine as yet, than Christ and his apostles had
alreadie set downe vnto all men. In returning therefore his
messengers, he sent letters by them vnto Lucius and his Nobilitie,
dated in the consulships of Commodus and Vespronius, wherein he
told them that Christ had left sufficient order in the Scriptures
for the gouernment of his church alreadie in his word, and not for
[Sidenote *: Though most princes canot heare on that side.]
that onlie, but also for the regiment of his whole [*]kingdome, if
he would submit himselfe, to yéeld and follow that rule. The epistle
it selfe is partlie extant, and partlie perished, yet such as it
is, and as I haue faithfullie translated it out of sundrie verie
ancient copies, I doo deliuer it here, to the end I will not defraud
the reader of anie thing that may turne to the glorie of God, and
his commoditie, in the historie of our nation.

[Sidenote: Epistle of Eleutherus vnto Lucius.]
"You require of vs the Romane ordinances, and thereto the statutes
of the emperours to be sent ouer vnto you, and which you desire to
practise and put in vre within your realme and kingdome. The Romane
lawes and those of emperours we may eftsoones reprooue, but those
of God can neuer be found fault withall. You haue receiued of late
through Gods mercie in the realme of Britaine the law and faith of
Christ, you haue with you both volumes of the scriptures: out of
them therefore by Gods grace, and the councell of your realme take
you a law, and by that law through Gods sufferance rule your
kingdome, for you are Gods vicar in your owne realme, as the roiall
[Sidenote: _Psal. 24._]
prophet saith; The earth is the Lords and all that is therein, the
[Sidenote: _Psal. 45._]
compasse of the world, and they that dwell therein. Againe, Thou
hast loued truth and hated iniquitie, wherefore God, euen thy God
hath annointed thee with oile of gladnesse aboue thy fellowes.
[Sidenote: _Psal. 71._]
And againe, according to the saieng of the same prophet; Oh God
giue thy iudgement vnto the king, & thy iustice vnto the kings
sonne. The kings sons are the Christian people & flocke of the
realme, which are vnder your gouernance, and liue & continue in
[Sidenote: Here wanteth.]
peace within your kingdome. * The gospell saith; As the hen gathereth
hir chickens vnder hir wings, so dooth the king his people. Such
as dwell in the kingdome of Britaine are yours, whom if they be
diuided, you ought to gather into concord and vnitie, to call them
to the faith and law of Christ, and to his sacred church: to chearish
and mainteine, to rule also and gouerne them, defending each of
them from such as would doo them wrong, and keeping them from the
malice of such as be their enimies. * Wo vnto the nation whose king
is a child, and whose princes rise vp earlie to banket and féed,
which is spoken not of a prince that is within age, but of a prince
that is become a child, through follie, sinne & vnstedfastnesse,
[Sidenote: _Psal. 55._]
of whom the prophet saith; The bloudthirstie and deceitfull men
shall not liue foorth halfe their daies. * By féeding I vnderstand
gluttonie; by gluttonie, lust; & by lust all wickednesse & sinne,
according to the saieng of Salomon the king; Wisedome entreth not
into a wicked mind, nor dwelleth with a man that is subiect vnto
sinne. A king hath his name of ruling, and not of the possession
of his realme. You shalbe a king whilest you rule well, but if you
doo otherwise, the name of a king shall not remaine with you, but
you shall vtterlie forgo it, which God forbid. The almightie God
grant you so to rule the kingdome of Britaine, that you may reigne
with him for euer, whose vicar (or vicegerent) you are within your
aforesaid kingdome. Who with the Sonne and the Holie-ghost, &c."

Hitherto out of the epistle that Eleutherus sent vnto Lucius,
wherein manie pretie obseruations are to be collected, if time and
place would serue to stand vpon them. After these daies also the
number of such as were ordeined to saluation, increased dailie more
and more, whereby (as in other places of the world) the word of
God had good successe in Britaine, in time of peace; and in heat
of persecution, there were no small number of martyrs that suffered
[Sidenote: Albane.]
[Sidenote: Amphibalus.]
[Sidenote: Iulius.]
[Sidenote: Aaron.]
for the same, of which Albane, Amphibalus, Iulius, and Aaron, are
reputed to be the chiefe, bicause of their noble parentage, which
is a great matter in the sight of worldlie men.

There are which affirme our Lucius to renounce his kingdome, and
afterward to become first a bishop, then a preacher of the gospell,
and afterward a pope: but to the end such as hold this opinion may
once vnderstand the botome of their errors, I will set downe the
matter at large, whereby they shall sée (if they list to looke)
how far they haue béene deceiued.

[Sidenote: Chlorus had three sons, & a daughter by Helena.]
I find that Chlorus had issue by his second wife, two sonnes,
Dalmatius (who had a sonne called also Dalmatius and slaine by the
souldiors.) Constantius father to Gallus, and Iulian the apostata;
besides foure other whose names as yet I find not. But being at
the first matched with Helena, and before she was put from him by
the roiall power of Dioclesian, he had by hir three sonnes (beside
one daughter named Emerita) of which the name of the first is
perished, the second was called Lucius, & the third Constantine,
that afterward was emperour f Rome, by election of the armies in
Britaine. Now it happened that Lucius, whome the French call Lucion,
by means of a quarell growne betwéene him and his elder brother,
did kill his said brother, either by a fraie or by some other
meanes, wherevpon his father exiled him out of Britaine, and
appointed him from thenceforth to remaine in Aquitane in France.
This Lucion brought thus into worldlie sorow, had now good leasure
to meditate vpon heauen, who before in his prosperitie had peraduenture
[Sidenote: Lucion becommeth a christian.]
neuer regard of hell. Finallie he fell so far into the consideration
[Sidenote: Lucion a bishop.]
of his estate, that at the last he renounced his paganisme, and
first became a christian, then an elder, and last of all a bishop
in the church of Christ. He erected also a place of praier wherein
to serue the liuing God, which after sundrie alterations came in
processe of time to be an Abbaie, and is still called euen to our
time after Lucion or Lucius: the first founder therof, and the
originall beginner of anie such house in those parts.

In this also he and diuers other of his freends continued their
times, in great contemplation and praier, and from hence were
translated as occasion serued, vnto sundrie ecclesiasticall promotions
in the time of Constant. his brother. So that euen by this short
narration it is now easie to sée, that Lucius the king, and Lucius
[Sidenote: _Hermannus Schedelius. Bruschius cap. 3._]
or Lucion the sonne of Chlorus, were distinct persons. Herevnto
Hermannus Schedelius addeth also how he went into Rhetia with
Emerita his sister, and néere vnto the citie Augusta conuerted the
Curienses vnto the faith of Christ, and there likewise (being put
to death in Castro Martis) lieth buried in the same towne, where
his feast is holden vpon the third daie of December, as may readilie
be confirmed, whereas the bones of our Lucius were to be séene at
Glocester. That Schedelius erreth not herein also, the ancient
monuments of the said Abbaie, whereof he was the originall beginner,
as I said, doo yeeld sufficient testimonie, beside an hymne made
[Sidenote: _Festum Lucionis. Iohn Bouchet_.]
in his commendation, intituled Gaude Lucionum, &c. But for more
of this you may resort vnto Bouchet in his first booke, and fift
chapter of the Annales of Aquitane, who neuertheles maketh the king
[Sidenote: Emerita martyred in Rhetia.]
of Britaine grandfather to this Lucion. The said Schedelius
furthermore setteth downe, that his sister was martyred in
Trinecastell, néere vnto the place where the said Lucion dwelled,
whereby it appéereth in like sort, that she was not sister to Lucius
king of Britaine, of which prince Alexander Neccham in his most
excellent treatise De sapientia diuina, setteth downe this Distichon:

  Prima Britannorum fidei lux Lucius esse
    Fertur, qui rexit moenia Brute tua.

Neither could Lucion or Lucius be fellow and of kinred vnto Paule
the apostle, as Auentine inferreth, except he meane it of some
other Lucius, as of one whome he nameth Cyrinensis. But then will
not the historie agree with the conuersion of the Rhetians and
[Sidenote: Heresie and monastical life brought into Britaine at one
time by _Pelagius_.]
Vindelicians, whereof Schedelius and other doo make mention. But
as each riuer the farder it runneth from the head, the more it is
increased by small riuelets, and corrupted with filthie puddels,
and stinking gutters, that descend into the same: so the puritie
of the gospell, preached here in Britaine, in processe of time
became first of all to be corrupted with a new order of religion,
and most execrable heresie, both of them being brought in at once
by Pelagius, of Wales, who hauing trauelled through France, Italie,
Aegypt, Syria, & the easterlie regions of the world, was there at
the last made an elder or bishop, by some of the monkes, vnto whose
[Sidenote: Bangor.]
profession he had not long before wholie addicted himselfe. Finallie
returning home againe with an augmentation of fame and countenance
of greater holinesse than he bare out of the land with him, he did
not onelie erect an house of his owne order at Bangor in Wales,
vpon the riuer Dee, but also sowed the pestiferous séed of his
hereticall prauities ouer all this Iland, whereby he seduced great
numbers of Britons, teaching them to preferre their owne merits,
before the free mercie of God, in Jesus Christ his sonne. By this
means therefore he brought assurance of saluation into question,
and taught all such as had a diligent respect vnto their workes to
be doubtfull of the same, whereas to such as regard this latter,
there can be no quietnesse of mind, but alwaies an vnstedfast
opinion of themselues, whereby they cannot discerne, neither by
prosperitie nor aduersitie of this life, whether they be worthie
loue or hatred. Neuertheles it behooueth the godlie to repose their
hope in that grace which is freelie granted through Jesu Christ,
and to flee vnto the mercies of God which are offered vnto vs in
with and by his son, to the end that we may at the last find the
testimonie of his spirit working with ours, that we are his chosen
children, whereby commeth peace of conscience to such as doo beléeue.

Thus we sée how new deuises or orders of religion and heresie came
in together. I could shew also what Comets, and strange signes
appeared in Britaine, much about the same time, the like of which
with diuers other haue beene perceiued also from time to time,
sithence the death of Pelagius, at the entrance of anie new kind
of religion into this Ile of Britaine. But I passe them ouer, onelie
for that I would not seeme in my tractation of antiquities, to
trouble my reader with the rehersall of anie new inconueniences.

[Sidenote: Anachorites.]
[Sidenote: Heremites.]
[Sidenote: Cyrillines.]
[Sidenote: Benedictines.]
To procéed therefore with my purpose, after these, there followed
in like sort sundrie other kinds of monasticall life, as Anachorites,
Heremits, Cyrilline and Benedictine monkes, albeit that the
heremeticall profession was onelie allowed of in Britaine, vntill
the comming of Augustine the monke, who brought in the Benedictine
sect, framed after the order of the house which Benedict surnamed
Nursinus did first erect in Monte Cassino, about the 524. of Christ,
& was finallie so well liked of all men, that we had few or (as I
suppose) no blacke monkes in England that were not of his order.
[Sidenote: Monkes and Heremites onelie allowed of in Britaine.]
In processe of time how Benedict Biscop also our countrieman restored
the said Benedictine profession greatlie decaied in England, our
histories are verie plentifull, which Biscop went off into Italie,
and at one time for a speciall confirmation of his two monasteries
which he had builded at other mens costs vnto Paule and Peter vpon
[Sidenote: The number of religious houses in England at their
dissolution.]
the bankes of the Were, as Beda dooth remember. So fast also did
these and other like humane deuises prosper after his time, that
at their suppression in England and Wales onelie, there were found
440. religious houses at the least, of which 373. might dispend
200. li. by the yéere at the least, as appeareth by the record of
their suppression, which also noteth the totall summe of their
reuenues to amount vnto 32000. pounds, their moueables 100000. li.
and the number of religious men conteined in the same, to be 10000.
which would make a pretie armie, wherevnto if you adde those 45.
of late standing in Scotland, you shall soone see what numbers of
these dens of spirituall robbers were mainteined here in Britaine.
What number of saincts also haue béene hatched in them I could
easilie remember, and beside those 160. which Capgraue setteth
downe, & other likewise remembred in the golden Legend, and Legendarie
of Excester, I might bring a rable out of Scotland able to furnish
vp a calendar, though the yere were twise as long.

As touching Pelagius the first heretike that euer was bred in this
realme (notablie knowne) and parent of Monachisme, it is certeine,
that before his corruption and fall, he was taken for a man of
singular learning, deepe iudgement, and such a one, as vpon whome
for his great gifts in teaching and strictnesse of life, no small
péece of the hope and expectation of the people did depend. But
what is wisedome of the flesh, without the feare and true knowledge
of God? and what is learning except it be handmaid to veritie and
[Sidenote: Roger Bakon his saieng of the preachers of his time who
were the best lawyers and the worst Diuines.]
sound iudgement? Wherefore euen of this man, we may see it verified,
that one Roger Bakon pronounced long after of the corruption of
his time, when all things were measured by wit and worldlie policie,
rather than by the scriptures or guidance of the spirit; Better it
is saith he, to heare a rude and simple idiot preach the truth,
without apparance of skill and learned eloquence, than a profound
clearke to set foorth error, with great shew of learning, and boast
of filed vtterance. Gerson in like sort hath said fullie asmuch.
These follies of Pelagius were blased abroad about the 400. of
Christ, and from thencefoorth how his number of monkes increased
on the one side, and his doctrine on the other, there is almost no
reader that is vnskilfull and ignorant.

[Sidenote: More than 2100 monkes in the College or Abbaie of Bangor in
whose territories the parish of Ouerton standeth.]
This also is certeine, that within the space of 200. yeares and
odde, there were manie more than 2100. monkes gathered togither in
his house, whose trades notwithstanding the errors or their founder,
(who taught such an estimation or merits and bodilie exercise (as
Paule calleth it) that therby he sought not onlie to impugne, but
also preuent grace, which was in deed the originall occasion of
the erection of his house) were yet farre better and more godlie
than all those religious orders, that were inuented of later time,
wherein the professours liued to themselues, their wombs and the
licentious fruition of those parts, that are beneath the bellie.
[Sidenote: _Niceph. lib. 11. cap. 34_.]
For these laboured continuallie for their owne liuings, at vacant
times from praier (as did Serapions monkes, which were 10000. ouer
whome he himselfe was Abbat) and likewise for the better maintenance
of such learned men as were their appointed preachers. Their liues
also were correspondent to their doctrine, so that herein onelie
they seemed intollerable, in that they had confidence in their
déeds, and no warrant out of the word for their succor & defense,
but were such a plant as the heauenlie father had not planted, and
therefore no maruell, though afterward they were raised by the
roots.

[Sidenote: Germanus, Lupus, Palladius, Patricius.]
But as Pelagius and his adherents had a time to infect the church
of Christ in Britaine, so the liuing God hath had a season also to
purge and cleanse the same, though not by a full reformation of
doctrine, sith Germanus, Lupus, Palladius, Patricius, and such like
leaning for the most part vnto the monasticall trades, did not so
much condemne the generall errors of Pelagius one waie, as mainteine
the same, or as euill opinions another. For as Patricke séemed to
like well of the honoring of the dead, so Germanus being in Britaine
repaired an old chapell to S. Albane, wherein Lupus also praied,
as Palladius vpheld the strictnesse of life, in monasticall profession
[Sidenote: _Seuerus Sulpitius in vita Patricij._]
to the vttermost of his power. Wherefore God wrought this purgation
of his house at the first, rather by taking awaie the wicked and
pompous schoolemaisters of errour out of this life: hoping that by
such meanes, his people would haue giuen eare to the godlie that
remained. But in processe of time, when this his mercifull dealing
was forgotten and our countriemen returned to their former disorders,
he brought in the Saxons, who left no idoll vnhonored, no not their
filthie Priapus, vnto whom the women builded temples, and made a
beastlie image (Cum pene intenso, and as if he had beene circumcised)
whome they called Ithypallus, Verpus, and as Goropius Atvatic. pag.
26. addeth, Ters: calling vpon him in maner at euerie word, yea
at the verie fall of a knife out of their hands, and not counted
anie shame vnto the most ancient and sober matrone of them all.
Howbeit when this procéeding of the Lord could also take no place,
and the shéepe of his pasture would receiue no wholesome fodder,
it pleased his maiestie, to let them run on headlong from one
iniquitie to another, in somuch that after the doctrine of Pelagius,
[Sidenote: Augustine the monke.]
it receiued that of Rome also, brought in by Augustine and his
monkes, whereby it was to be seene, how they fell from the truth
into heresie, and from one heresie still into another, till at the
last they were drowned altogither in the pits of error digged vp
by Antichrist, wels in deed that hold no water, which notwithstanding
to their followers séemed to be most sound doctrine, and cisterns
[Sidenote: Augustine.]
of liuing water to such as imbraced the same. This Augustine,
after his arriuall, conuerted the Saxons in deed from paganisme,
but as the prouerbe saith, bringing them out of Gods blessing into
the warme sunne, he also imbued them with no lesse hurtfull
superstition, than they did know before: for beside the onelie name
of Christ, and externall contempt of their pristinate idolatrie,
he taught them nothing at all, but rather (I saie) made an exchange
from grosse to subtill treacherie, from open to secret idolatrie,
& from the name of pagans, to the bare title of christians, thinking
this sufficient for their soules health, and the stablishment of
his monachisme, of which kind of profession, the holie scriptures
of God can in no wise like or allow. But what cared he? sith he
got the great fish for which he did cast his hooke, and so great
was the fish that he caught in deed, that within the space of 1000.
yeares, and lesse, it deuoured the fourth part & more of the best
soile of the Iland, which was wholie bestowed vpon his monkes, &
other religious broodes that were hatched since his time, as may
hereafter appéere in the booke following, where I intreate of
[Sidenote: Monks of Canturburie plagued.]
cities, townes, &c. In the meane season what successe his monkes
had at Canturburie, how oft they were spoiled by enimies, their
houses burned by casualtie, and brethren consumed with pestilence,
I refer me to Gotcellius, Houeden, Geruase, and the rest of their
owne historiographers. And so sore did the pestilence rage among
them in the time of Celnothus (in whose daies the preests, clerks
and monkes sang their seruice togither in the quire, that (of I
wote not how manie) there remained onelie fiue aliue, which was a
notable token of the furie and wrath of God conceiued and executed
against that malignant generation. It came also to passe at the
last that men vsed to praie for helpe at the said Augustines tumbe
(although afterward Thomas Becket a newer saint did not a little
deface his glorie) among which king Athelstane was one, whome
Elnothus the abbat staied so long in the place, when he came thither
to praie, that his soldiours waiting for his comming, and supposing
the monkes to haue murdered him, began to giue an assault and set
fire vpon the house.

[Sidenote: Meates.]
[Sidenote: Picts.]
Whilest these things were thus in hand, in the south part of Albion,
[Sidenote: Caledoniens.]
the Meates, Picts, and Caledoniens, which lie beyond the Scotish
sea, receiued also the faith, by preaching of such christian elders
as aduentured thither dailie, who trauelled not without great
successe and increase of perfect godlines in that part of the Ile.
Certes this prosperous attempt passed all mens expectation, for
that these nations were in those daies reputed wild, sauage, and
more vnfaithfull and craftie than well-minded people (as the wild
Irish are in my time) and such were they (to saie the truth) in
deed, as neither the sugred courtesie, nor sharpe swords of the
Romans could mollifie or restraine from their naturall furie, or
bring to anie good order. For this cause also in the end, the Romane
emperours did vtterlie cast them off as an vnprofitable, brutish,
& vntameable nation, and by an huge wall herafter to be described,
separated that rude companie from the more mild and ciuill portion.

[Sidenote: Scotland conuerted to the faith of Christ.]
This conuersion of the north parts fell out in the sixt yeare before
the warres that Seuerus had in those quarters, and 170. after the
death of our sauiour Jesus Christ. From thenceforth also the
christian religion continued still among them, by the diligent care
of their pastors and bishops (after the vse of the churches of the
south part of this Iland) till the Romane shéepheard sought them
out, and found the meanes to pull them vnto him in like sort with
his long staffe as he had done our countriemen, whereby in the end
he abolished the rites of the churches of Asia there also, as
Augustine had done alreadie in England: and in stéed of the same
did furnish it vp with those of his pontificall see, although there
was great contention, and no lesse bloodshed made amongst them,
before it could be brought to passe, as by the histories of both
nations yet extant may be séene.

[Sidenote: Paladius.]
In the time of Coelestine bishop of Rome, who sate in the 423. of
[Sidenote: The first attempt of the bishop of Rome to bring Scotland
vnder his obedience.]
Christ, one Paladius a Grecian borne (to whome Cyrill wrote his
dialog De adoratione in spiritu) and sometime disciple to Iohn 24.
bishop of Ierusalem, came ouer from Rome into Britaine, there to
suppresse the Pelagian heresie, which not a little molested the
orthodoxes of that Iland. And hauing doone much good in the
extinguishing of the aforesaid opinion there, he went at the last
also into Scotland, supposing no lesse, but after he had trauelled
somwhat in confutation of the Pelagians in those parts, he should
easilie persuade that crooked nation to admit and receiue the rites
of the church of Rome, as he would fame haue doone beforehand in
[Sidenote: Fastidius bishop of London.]
the south. But as Fastidius Priscus archbishop of London, and his
Suffragans resisted him here; so did the Scotish prelates withstand
[Sidenote: Paladius accompted for the apostle of the Scots.]
him there also in this behalfe: howbeit, bicause of the authoritie
of his commission, grauitie of personage, and the great gift which
he had in the veine of pleasant persuasion (whereby he drew the
people after him, as Orpheus did the stones with his harpe, and
Hercules such as heard him by his toong) they had him not onelie
then in great admiration, but their successors also from time to
time, and euen now are contented (and the rather also for that he
came from Rome) to take him for their chéefe apostle, reckoning
from his comming as from the faith receiued, which was in the 431.
yeare of Christ, as the truth of their historie dooth verie well
confirme.

Thus we see what religion hath from time to time beene receiued in
this Iland, & how and when the faith of Christ came first into our
countrie. Howbeit as in processe of time it was ouershadowed, and
corrupted with the dreames and fantasticall imaginations of man,
so it dailie waxed woorse & woorse, till that it pleased God to
restore the preaching of his gospell in our daies, whereby the man
of sinne is now openlie reuealed, and the puritie of the word once
againe brought to light, to the finall ouerthrow of the Romish
sathan, and his popish adherents that honour him daie and night to
the vttermost of their power, yeelding vp their harts as temples
for him to dwell in, which rather ought to be the temples of God
and habitations of the Holy-ghost. But such is their peruerse
ignorance (notwithstanding that Paule hath giuen warning of him
alreadie 2. Thes. 2. calling him (as I said) the man of sinne, and
saieng that he sitteth as God in the temple of God, shewing himselfe
in his chalenge of power, as as if he were God, vnder pretense of
zeale vnto true religion) that they will not giue eare vnto the
truth, but rather shut their eares and their eies from hearing and
reading of the scriptures, bicause they will not be drawne out of
his snares and bondage.


OF THE MANIFOLD CONUERSIONS AND ALTERATIONS OF THE ESTATE OF THE
COMMON-WEALTH OF BRITAINE, SITHENS THE TIME OF SAMOTHES.

There is a certeine period of kingdomes, of 430. yeares, in which
commonlie they suffer some notable alteration. And as in the
aforesaid season there is set a time of increase and decaie, so we
find that before the execution of Gods purpose dooth come to passe,
in changing the estate of things, sundrie tokens are sent, whereby
warning is giuen, that without repentance he will come and visit
our offenses. This is partlie verified by Ioachimus Camerarius,
who in his first booke De ostentis intreating of the same argument,
telleth of a strange earthquake felt in Delus, which was neuer
touched with any such plague before or after the ouerthrow of the
Persians, giuen vnto them by the Grecians; also of the beard that
suddenlie grew out of the face of the Pedacien prophetesse, so
often as the citie was to be touched with any alteration and change.
"Nam (saith he) descriptas esse diuinitùs aetates quibus idem
humanarum rerum status duraret, quibus finitis, praedici prius quàm
existeret nouationem in deterius euenturam rerum, quaeque indies
minùs ac minùs numini cordi essent. Emittuntur igitur cometae
diuinitus, & reuocantur dum supra nos conspecti quamdiu placuit
Deo inferuntur, &c." Plato referreth such changes as happen in
common-wealths to a certeine diuine force that resteth hidden in
sundrie od numbers, whereof their periods do consist. True it is
that God created all things in number, weight & measure, & that
after an incomprehensible maner vnto our fraile & humane capacitie.
Neuerthelesse, he appointed not these three to haue the rule of
his works, wherefore we must not ascribe these changes to the force
of number with Plato, much lesse then vnto destinie with the
Peripatetiks, but vnto the diuine prouidence and appointment of
God, which onelie may be called destinie as S. Augustine saith,
for of other destinie it is impietie to dreame. Aristotle ascribing
all euents vnto manifest causes precedent, dooth scoffe at Plato
and his numbers in his booke of common-wealths, and bringeth in
sundrie causes of the alteration of the state of things, which we
may referre vnto principals, as iniurie, oppression, ambition,
treason, rebellion, contempt of religion and lawes, and therevnto
abundance of wealth in few, and great necessitie and miserie in
manie. But whatsoeuer Aristotle gesseth at these things by humane
reason as at the first causes, yet we acknowledge other beyond
them, as sinne, which being suffered and come to the full, is cut
downe by the iustice of the high God, the cheefe cause of all, who
foreseeing the wickednesse of such as dwell on earth, dooth constitute
such a reuolution of things in their beginnings, as best standeth
with the execution of his purpose, and correction of our errors.
The causes therefore that Aristotle dooth deliuer, are nothing else
but the meanes which God vseth to bring his purposes to passe; and
yet they deserue the name of causes, in that they preceed those
effects which follow them immediatlie. But in truth other than
secondarie or third causes no man can iustlie call them. Bodinus
in his historicall method, cap. 6. making a large discourse of the
conuersions of commonwealths, dooth séeme at the first to denie
the force of number, but after a while he maruelleth that no Grecian
or Latine Academike, hath hitherto made any discourse of the
excellencie of such numbers as apperteine to the estate of empires
[Sidenote: Fatal numbers.]
and kingdomes by exemplification in any one citie or other. Hereby
he sheweth himselfe vpon the sudden to alter his iudgement, so that
he setteth downe certeine numbers as fatall; to wit, sixe vnto
women, and seauen and nine vnto men, which (saith he) haue "Magnam
in tota rerum natura potestatem," meaning as well in common-wealths
and kingdomes from their first erections, as in particular ages of
bodies, for sickenesse, health, change of habitation, wealth, and
losse, &c: and for the confirmation of the same, he setteth downe
sundrie examples of apparent likelihood, either by multiplication
of one one by the other, or diuision of greater numbers by either
of them, or their concurrence one with another, calling the aforesaid
three his criticall or iudiciall numbers, whereby he bringeth or
rather restoreth an old kind of arithmancie (fathered on Pythagoras,
yet neuer inuented by him) againe into the world. But we Christians,
in respecting of causes, haue to looke vnto the originall and great
cause of all, and therefore we haue not to leane vnto these points
in any wise as causes: for we know and confesse that all things
depend vpon his prouidence, who humbleth and exalteth whom it
pleaseth him. Neuerthelesse, I hope we may without offense examine
how these assertions hold, so long as we vse them rather as Indices
than Causas mutationum. And therefore haue I attempted to practise
at this present the example of Bodinus, first in the alterations
of our ciuill estate passed; and secondlie, of the like in cases
of religion; from the flood generallie, and then after the first
comming in of Samothes into our Ile, thereby somewhat to satisfie
my selfe, and recreate the readers; but still protesting in the
meane season that I vtterlie denie them to be any causes, or of
themselues to worke any effect at all in these things, as Bodinus
would seeme to vphold. As for those of other countries, I referre
you to Aristotles politikes, and the eight of the common-wealth
which Plato hath left vnto vs, therby to be farther resolued, if
you be desirous to looke on them. In beginning therefore with my
purpose; First bicause the flood of Noah was generall, and therefore
appertinent vnto all, it shall not be amisse to begin with that,
which was in the yeare 1656. after the creation of Adam, so that
if you diuide the same by nine, you shall find the quotient to fall
out exactlie with the 184. reuolution of the same number. Secondlie,
for so much as the confusion of toongs was the originall cause of
the dispersion of the people ouer the face of the whole earth, it
shall not be amisse also to examine the same. Certes it fell out
in the 133. after the flood: if we diuide therefore the said 133.
by seauen, you shall find the quotient 19. without any ods remaining.
From hence also vnto the comming of Samothes into Britaine, or
rather his lawes giuen vnto the Celts, and with them vnto the
Britons, in the second of his arriuall in this land, we find by
exact supputation 126. yeares, which being parted by nine or seauen
sheweth such a conclusion as maketh much for this purpose. Doubtlesse
I am the more willing to touch the time of his lawes than his
entrance, sith alteration of ordinances is the cheefe and principall
token of change in rule and regiment; although at this present the
circumstances hold not, sith he dispossessed none, neither incroched
vpon any. From Samothes vnto the tyrannie of Albion, are 335. yeares
complet, so that he arriued here in the 335. or 48. septenarie,
which also concurreth with the 590. after the flood. In like sort
the regiment of Albion continued but seauen yeares, and then was
the souereingtie of this Ile restored againe by Hercules vnto the
Celts. The next alteration of our estate openlie knowne, happened
by Brute, betweene whose time and death of Albion there passed full
601. yeares (for he spent much time after his departure out of
Grecia, before he came into Albion) so that if you accompt him to
come hither in the 602. you shall haue 86. septenaries exactlie.
From Brute to the extinction of his posteritie in Ferrex and Porrex,
and pentarchie of Britaine, are 630. yeares, or 70. nouenaries,
than the which where shall a man find a more precise period after
this method or prescription, for manie and diuers considerations.
The time of the pentarchie indured likewise 49. yeares, or seauen
septenaries, which being expired Dunwallo brought all the princes
vnder his subiection, and ruled ouer them as monarch of this Ile.
After the pentarchie ended, we find againe, that in the 98. yeare,
Brennus rebelled against Beline his brother, wherevpon insued cruell
bloodshed betwéene them. So that here you haue 14. septenaries, as
you haue from those warres ended, which indured a full yeare & more
before Brennus was reconciled to his brother, to the comming of
Caesar into this Iland (whereat our seruitude and miserable thraldome
to the Romans may worthilie take his entrance) 48. or 336. yeares,
than the which concurrences I know not how a man should imagine a
more exact.

After the comming of Caesar we haue 54. or sixe nouenaries to
Christ, whose death and passion redoundeth generallie to all that
by firme and sure faith take hold of the same, and applie it vnto
their comfort. From the birth of Christ to our countrie deliuered
from the Romane yoke, are 446. yeares, at which time the Britains
chose them a king, and betooke themselues to his obedience. But
neither they nor their king being then able to hold out the Scots
and Picts, which dailie made hauocke of their countrie; the said
Vortiger in the third yeare of his reigne (which was the 63.
septenarie after Christ) did send for the Saxons, who arriued here
in the 449. and 450. yeares of Grace, in great companies, for our
aid and succour, although that in the end their entrances turned
to our vtter decaie and ruine, in that they made a conquest of the
whole Ile, and draue vs out of our liuings. Hereby we sée therefore
how the preparatiue began in the 449. but how it was finished in
the tenth nouenarie, the sequele is too too plaine. In like sort
in the 43. nouenarie or 387. after the comming of the Saxons, the
Danes entred, who miserablie afflicted this Ile by the space of
182. yeares or 46. septenaries, which being expired, they established
themselues in the kingdome by Canutus. But their time lasting not
long, the Normans followed in the end of the 49. yeare, and thus
you sée how these numbers do hold exactlie vnto the conquest. The
like also we find of the continuance of the Normans or succession
of the Conquerour, which indured but 89. yeares, being extinguished
in Stephen, and that of the Saxons restored in Henrie the second,
although it lacke one whole yeare of ten nouenaries, which is a
small thing, sith vpon diuers occasions the time of the execution
of any accident may be preuented or proroged, as in direction and
progression astronomicall is oftentimes perceiued. From hence to
the infamous excommunication of England in king Iohns daies,
wherevpon insued the resignation of his crownes and dominions to
the pope, are eight septenaries or 56. yeares. Thence againe to
the deposition of Richard. 2. and vsurpation of Henrie 4. are 77.
yeares or 11. septenaries. From hence to the conspiracie made
against Edward. 2. after which he was deposed & murdered are 117.
yeares, or 13. nouenaries. From hence to the beginning of the
quarell betwéene the houses of Yorke and Lancaster (wherein foure
score and od persons of the blood roiall were slaine and made awaie
first and last, and which warres begunne in the 1448. and the yeare
after the death of the Duke of Glocester, whose murther séemed to
make frée passage to the said broile) are 72. yeares or eight
nouenaries. From hence to the translation of the crowne from the
house of Lancaster to that of Yorke, in Edward the 4. are 14. yeares
or two septenaries, and last of all to the vnion of the said houses
in Henrie the eight, is an exact quadrat of seuen multiplied in it
selfe, or 49. yeares, whereof I hope this may in part suffice.

Now as concerning religion, we haue from Christ to the faith first
preached in Britaine (by Iosephus ab Aramathia, and Simon Zelotes)
as some write 70. yeares or 10. septenaries. Thence also to the
baptisme of Lucius, and his nobilitie in the yeare after their
conuersion, 12. nouenaries or 108. yeares. After these the Saxons
entred and changed the state of religion for the most part into
paganisme, in the yeare 449. 39. nouenarie, and 273. yeare after
Lucius had beene baptised, which is 39. septenaries, if I be not
deceiued. In the 147. or 21. septenarie, Augustine came, who
brought in poperie, which increased and continued till Wicklif with
more boldnesse than anie other began to preach the gospell, which
was Anno. 1361. or 765. yeares after the comming of Augustine,
[Sidenote: Henrie. 8.]
and yeeld 85. nouenaries exactlie. From hence againe to the
expulsion of the pope 175. yeares, or 25. septenaries, thence to
[Sidenote: Marie.]
the receiuing of the pope and popish doctrine 21. yeares or 3.
septenaries, wherevnto I would ad the time of restoring the gospell
by Quéene Elizabeth, were it not that it wanteth one full yeare of
7. Whereby we may well gather, that if there be anie hidden mysterie
or thing conteined in these numbers, yet the same extendeth not
vnto the diuine disposition of things, touching the gift of grace
and frée mercie vnto the penitent, vnto which neither number weight
nor measure shall be able to aspire.




OF SUCH ILANDS AS ARE TO BE SEENE VPON THE COASTS OF BRITAINE.

CAP. 10.


There are néere vnto, or not verie farre from the coasts of Britaine
many faire Ilands, wherof Ireland with hir neighbors (not here
handled) séeme to be the cheefe. But of the rest, some are much
larger or lesse than other, diuers in like sort enuironed continuallie
with the salt sea (whereof I purpose onelie to intreat, although
not a few of them be Ilands but at the floud) and other finallie
be clipped partlie by the fresh and partlie by the salt water, or
by the fresh alone, whereof I may speake afterward.

Of these salt Ilands (for so I call them that are enuironed with
the Ocean waues) some are fruitfull in wood, corne, wild foule,
and pasture ground for cattell, albeit that manie of them be
accounted barren, bicause they are onelie replenished with conies,
and those of sundrie colours (cherished of purpose by the owners,
for their skins or carcases in their prouision of household) without
either man or woman otherwise inhabiting in them. Furthermore, the
greatest number of these Ilands haue townes and parish-churches,
within their seuerall precincts, some mo, some lesse: and beside
all this, are so inriched with commodities, that they haue pleasant
hauens, fresh springs, great store of fish, and plentie of cattell,
wherby the inhabitants doo reape no small aduantage. How manie they
are in number I cannot as yet determine, bicause mine informations
are not so fullie set downe, as the promises of some on the one
side, & mine expectation on the other did extend vnto. Howbeit,
first of all that there are certeine which lie neere togither, as
[Sidenote: Nesiadae.]
[Sidenote: Insulae Scylurum.]
[Sidenote: Sileustrae.]
[Sidenote: Syllanae.]
it were by heapes and clusters, I hope none will readilie denie.
Of these also those called the Nesiadae, Insulae, Scylurum,
[Sidenote: Sorlingae.]
[Sidenote: Sylley.]
Sileustrae, Syllanae, now the Sorlings, and Iles of Silley, lieng
beyond Cornwall are one, and conteineth in number one hundreth
fourtie and seauen (each of them bearing grasse) besides shelfes
[Sidenote: Hebrides.]
[Sidenote: Hebudes.]
and shallowes. In like sort the companie of the Hebrides in old
time subiect vnto Ireland are another, which are said to be 43.
[Sidenote: Meuaniae.]
situat vpon the west side of this Iland, betweene Ireland & Scotland,
and of which there are some that repute Anglesei, Mona Caesaris,
and other lieng betweene them to be parcell, in their corrupted
[Sidenote: Orchades.]
iudgement. The third cluster or bunch consisteth of those that are
called the Orchades, and these lie vpon the northwest point of
Scotland, being 31. aliàs 28. in number, as for the rest they lie
scattered here and there, and yet not to be vntouched as their
courses shall come about. There are also the 18. Shetland Iles,
and other yet farther distant from them, of which Iohn Frobuser I
doubt not touched vpon some in his voiage to Meta Incognita: but
for somuch as I must speake of the Shetlands hereafter, I doo not
meane to spend anie time about them as yet.

There haue beene diuers that haue written of purpose, De insulis
Britanniae, as Caesar doth confesse. The like also may be seene by
Plutarch, who nameth one Demetrius a Britaine, that should set
foorth an exact treatise of each of them in order, and among other
tell of certeine desert Iles beyond Scotland dedicated to sundrie
gods and goddesses, but of one especiallie, where Briareus should
hold Saturne and manie other spirits fast bound with the chaines
of an heauie sléepe, as he heard, of which some die now and then,
by meane wherof the aire becommeth maruellouslie troubled, &c: as
you may sée in Plutarch De cessatione oraculorum, &c. But sith
those bookes are now perished, and the most of the said Ilands
remaine vtterlie vnknowen, euen to our owne selues (for who is able
in our time to say where is Glota, Hiucrion, Etta, Iduna, Armia,
Aesarea, Barsa, Isiandium, Icdelis, Xantisma, Indelis, Siata, Ga.
Andros or Edros, Siambis, Xanthos, Ricnea, Menapia, &c? whose names
onelie are left in memorie by ancient writers, but I saie their
places not so much as heard of in our daies) I meane (God willing)
to set downe so manie of them with their commodities, as I doo
either know by Leland, or am otherwise instructed of by such as
are of credit. Herein also I will touch at large those that are
most famous, and breeflie passe ouer such as are obscure and
vnknowen, making mine entrance at the Thames mouth, and directing
this imagined course (for I neuer sailed it) by the south part of
the Iland into the west. From thence in like sort I will proceed
into the north, & come about againe by the east side into the fall
of the aforesaid streame, where I will strike saile, and safelie
be set ashore, that haue often in this voiage wanted water, but
oftener béene set a ground, especiallie on the Scotish side.

[Sidenote: Hoo.]
In beginning therefore, with such as lie in the mouth of the
aforesaid riuer, I must néeds passe by the How, which is not an
Iland, and therefore not within the compasse of my description at
this time, but almost an Iland, which parcels the Latins call
Peninsulas, and I doo english a Byland, vsing the word for such as
a man may go into drie-footed at the full sea, or on horssebacke
at the low water without anie boat or vessell: and such a one almost
is Rochford hundred in Essex also, yet not at this time to be spoken
of, bicause not the sea onelie but the fresh water also doth in
maner enuiron it, and is the cheefe occasion wherfore it is called
an Iland. This How lieth between Cliffe (in old time called Clouesho,
to wit, Cliffe in How or in the hundred of How) & the midwaie that
goeth along by Rochester, of which hundred there goeth an old
prouerbe in rime after this maner:

  He that rideth into the hundred of How,
  Beside pilfering sea-men shall find durt ynow.

[Sidenote: Greane.]
Next vnto this we haue the Greane, wherein is a towne of the same
[Sidenote: Shepey.]
denomination, an Ile supposed to be foure miles in length, and two
in bredth. Then come we to Shepey, which Ptolomie calleth Connos,
conteining seauen miles in length, and three in bredth, wherein is
a castell called Quinborow, and a parke, beside foure townes, of
which one is named Minster, another Eastchurch, the third Warden,
and the fourth Leyden: the whole soile being throughlie fed with
shéepe, verie well woodded, and (as I heare) belongeth to the Lord
Cheyney, as parcell of his inheritance. It lieth thirtéene miles
[Sidenote: Elmesie.]
by water from Rochester, but the castell is fiftéene, and by south
thereof are two small Ilands, wherof the one is called Elmesie,
[Sidenote: Hertesie.]
and the more easterlie Hertesie. In this also is a towne called
Hertie, or Hartie, and all in the Lath of Scraie, notwithstanding
that Hartie lieth in the hundred of Feuersham, and Shepey reteineth
one especiall Bailie of hir owne.

From hence we passe by the Reculuers (or territorie belonging in
time past to one Raculphus, who erected an house of religion, or
[Sidenote: Stureey.]
[Sidenote: Thanet.]
some such thing there) vnto a little Iland in the Stoure mouth.
Herevpon also the Thanet abutteth, which Ptolomie calleth Toliapis,
other Athanatos, bicause serpents are supposed not to liue in the
same, howbeit sith it is not enuironed with the sea, it is not to
be dealt withall as an Iland in this place, albeit I will not let
to borow of my determination, and describe it as I go, bicause it
[Sidenote *: In Lincolneshire the word Hide or hideland, was neuer in
vse in old time as in other places, but for Hide they vsed the word
Carucate or cartware, or Teme, and these were of no lesse compasse
than an Hideland. _Ex Hugone le blanc Monacho Petroburgensi._]
is so fruitfull. Beda noteth it in times past to haue conteined
600. families, which are all one with Hidelands, [*]Ploughlands,
Carrucates, or Temewares. He addeth also that it is diuided from
our continent, by the riuer called Wantsume, which is about thrée
furlongs broad, and to be passed ouer in two places onelie. But
whereas Polydore saieth, the Thanet is nine miles in length & not
much lesse in bredth, it is now reckoned that it hath not much
aboue seauen miles from Nordtmuth to Sandwich, and foure in bredth,
from the Stoure to Margate, or from the south to the north, the
circuit of the whole being 17. or 18. as Leland also noteth. This
Iland hath no wood growing in it except it be forced, and yet
otherwise it is verie fruitfull, and beside that it wanteth few
other commodities, the finest chalke is said to be found there.
Herein also did Augustine the moonke first arriue, when he came to
conuert the Saxons, and afterward in processe of time, sundry
religious houses were erected there, as in a soile much bettered
(as the supersticious supposed) by the steps of that holy man, &
such as came ouer with him. There are at this time 10. parish
churches at the least in the Ile of Thanet, as S. Nicholas,
Birchington, S. Iohns, Wood or Woodchurch, S. Peters, S. Laurence,
Mownton or Monkeron, Minster, S. Gyles and all Saincts, whereof M.
Lambert hath written at large in his description of Kent, and placed
the same in the Lath of sainct Augustine and hundred of Kingslow,
as may easilie be séene to him that will peruse it.

[Sidenote: Rutupium.]
Sometime Rutupium or (as Beda calleth it) Reptacester, stood also
in this Iland, but now thorough alteration of the chanell of the
Dour, it is shut quite out, and annexed to the maine. It is called
in these daies Richborow, and as it should seeme builded vpon an
indifferent soile or high ground. The large brickes also yet to be
seene there, in the ruinous walles, declare either the Romane or
the old British workemanship. But as time decaieth all things, so
Rutupium named Ruptimuth is now become desolate, and out of the
dust thereof Sandwich producted, which standeth a full mile from
the place where Reptacester stood. The old writers affirme, how
Arthur & Mordred fought one notable battell here, wherin Gwallon
or Gawan was slaine; at which time the said rebell came against
his souereigne with 70000. Picts, Scots, Irish, Norwegians, &c:
and with Ethelbert the first christian king of Kent did hold his
palace in this towne, and yet none of his coine hath hitherto béene
found there, as is dailie that of the Romanes, whereof manie péeces
of siluer and gold, so well as of brasse, copper, and other mettall
haue often beene shewed vnto me. It should appéere in like sort,
that of this place, all the whole coast of Kent therabout was called
Littus Rutupinum, which some doo not a little confirme by these
words of Lucane, to be read in his sixt booke soone after the
beginning:

[Sidenote: The last verse of one couple and first of an other.]
  Aut vaga cum Tethis, Rutupináq; littora feruent,
  Vnda Calidonios fallit turbata Britannos.

    Or when the wandering seas
      and Kentish coasts doo worke,
    And Calidons of British bloud,
      the troubled waues beguile.

Meaning in like sort by the latter, the coast néere Andredeswald,
which in time past was called Littus Calidonium of that wood or
forrest, as Leland also confirmeth. But as it is not my mind to
deale anie thing curiouslie in these by-matters, so in returning
[Sidenote: Seolesey of Seles there taken.]
againe to my purpose, and taking my iourney toward the Wight, I
must needs passe by Selesey, which sometime (as it should séeme)
hath béene a noble Iland, but now in maner a Byland or Peninsula,
wherin the chéefe sée of the bishop of Chichester was holden by
the space of thrée hundred twentie nine yeares, and vnder twentie
bishops.

Next vnto this, we come vnto those that lie betweene the Wight and
[Sidenote: Thorne.]
the maine land, of which the most easterlie is called Thorne, and
[Sidenote: Haling.]
to saie truth, the verie least of all that are to be found in that
knot. Being past the Thorne, we touched vpon the Haling, which is
bigger than the Thorne, and wherein one towne is situat of the same
[Sidenote: Port.]
denomination beside another, whose name I remember not. By west
also of the Haling lieth the Port (the greatest of the three alreadie
mentioned) and in this standeth Portsmouth and Ringstéed) whereof
also our Leland, saieth thus: "Port Ile is cut from the shore by
an arme of the maine hauen, which breaketh out about thrée miles
aboue Portsmouth, and goeth vp two miles or more by morish ground
to a place called Portbridge, which is two miles from Portsmouth."
Then breaketh there out another créeke from the maine sea, about
Auant hauen, which gulleth vp almost to Portbridge, and thence is
the ground disseuered, so that Portsmouth standeth in a corner of
this Ile, which Iland is in length six miles, and three miles in
bredth, verie good for grasse and corne, not without some wood,
and here and there inclosure. Beside this, there is also another
Iland north northwest of Port Ile, which is now so worne and washed
awaie with the working of the sea, that at the spring tides it is
wholie couered with water, and thereby made vnprofitable. Finallie
being past all these, and in compassing this gulfe, we come by an
other, which lieth north of Hirst castell, & southeast of Kaie
hauen, whereof I find nothing worthie to be noted, sauing that it
wanteth wood, as Ptolomie affirmeth in his Geographicall tables of
all those Ilands which enuiron our Albion.

[Sidenote: Wight.]
[Sidenote: Guidh.]
The Wight is called in Latine Vectis, but in the British speach
Guidh, that is to saie, Eefe or easie to be séene, or (as D. Caius
saith) separate, bicause that by a breach of the sea, it was once
diuided from the maine, as Sicilia was also from Italie, Anglesei
from Wales, Foulenesse from Essex, & Quinborow from Kent. It lieth
distant from the south shore of Britaine (where it is fardest off)
by fiue miles & a halfe, but where it commeth neerest, not passing
a thousand paces, and this at the cut ouer betwéene Hirst castell
and a place called Whetwell chine, as the inhabitants doo report.
It conteineth in length twentie miles, and in bredth ten, it hath
also the north pole eleuated by 50. degrees and 27. minutes, and
is onelie 18. degrees in distance, and 50. od minuts from the west
point, as experience hath confirmed, contrarie to the description
of Ptolomie, and such as folow his assertions in the same. In forme,
it representeth almost an eg, and so well is it inhabited with
meere English at this present, that there are thirtie six townes,
villages and castels to be found therein, beside 27. parish-churches,
of which 15. or 16. haue their Parsons, the rest either such poore
Vicars or Curats, as the liuings left are able to sustaine. The
names of the parishes in the Wight are these.

[Sidenote: P. signifieth parsonages, V. vicarages.]
 1 Newport, a chap.
 2 Cairsbrosie.  v.
 3 Northwood.
 4 Arriun.       v.
 5 Goddeshill.   v.
 6 Whitwell.
 7 S. Laurence.  p.
 8 Nighton.      p.
 9 Brading.      v.
10 Newchurch.    v.
11 S. Helene.    v.
12 Yauerland.    p.
13 Calborne.     p.
14 Bonechurch.   p.
15 Mottesson.    p.
16 Yarmouth.     p.
17 Thorley.      v.
18 Shalflete.    v.
19 Whippingham.  p.
20 Wootton.      p.
21 Chale.        p.
22 Kingston.     p.
23 Shorwell.     p.
24 Gatrombe.     p.
25 Brosie.
26 Brixston.     p.
27 Bensted.      p.

It belongeth for temporall iurisdiction to the countie of Hamshire,
but in spirituall cases it yéeldeth obedience to the sée of
Winchester, wherof it is a Deanerie. As for the soile of the whole
Iland, it is verie fruitfull, for notwithstanding the shore of it
selfe be verie full of rocks and craggie cliffes, yet there wanteth
no plentie of cattell, corne, pasture, medow ground, wild foule,
fish, fresh riuers, and pleasant woods, whereby the inhabitants
may liue in ease and welfare. It was first ruled by a seuerall
king, and afterwards wonne from the Britons by Vespasian the legat,
at such time as he made a voiage into the west countrie. In processe
of time also it was gotten from the Romans by the kings of Sussex,
who held the souereigntie of the same, and kept the king thereof
vnder tribute, till it was wonne also from them, in the time of
Athelwold, the eight king of the said south region, by Ceadwalla,
who killed Aruald that reigned there, and reserued the souereigntie
of that Ile to himselfe and his successors for euermore. At this
time also there were 1200. families in that Iland, whereof the said
Ceadwalla gaue 300 to Wilfride sometime bishop of Yorke, exhorting
him to erect a church there, and preach the gospell also to the
inhabitants thereof, which he in like maner performed, but according
to the prescriptions of the church of Rome, wherevnto he yéelded
himselfe vassall and feudarie: so that this Ile by Wilfride was
first conuerted to the faith, though the last of all other that
hearkened vnto the word. After Ceadwalla, Woolfride the parricide
was the first Saxon prince that aduentured to flie into the Wight
for his safegard, whither he was driuen by Kenwalch of the Westsaxons,
who made great warres vpon him, and in the end compelled him to go
into this place for succour, as did also king Iohn, in the rebellious
stir of his Barons, practised by the clergie: the said Iland being
as then in possession of the Forts, as some doo write that haue
handled it of purpose. The first Earle of this Iland that I doo
read of, was one Baldwijne de Betoun, who married for his second
wife, the daughter of William le Grosse Earle of Awmarle; but he
dieng without out issue by this ladie, she was maried the second
time to Earle Maundeuille, and thirdlie to William de Fortes, who
finished Skipton castell, which his wiues father had begun about
the time of king Richard the first. Hereby it came to passe also,
that the Forts were Earls of Awmarle, Wight, and Deuonshire a long
time, till the ladie Elizabeth Fortes, sole heire to all those
possessions came to age, with whom king Edward the third so preuailed
through monie & faire words, that he gat the possession of the
Wight wholie into his hands, & held it to himselfe & his successors,
vntill Henrie the sixt, about the twentieth of his reigne, crowned
Henrie Beauchamp sonne to the lord Richard Earle of Warwike king
thereof and of Iardesey and Gardesey with his owne hands, and
therevnto gaue him a commendation of the Dutchie of Warwike with
the titles of Comes comitum Angliae, lord Spenser of Aburgauenie,
and of the castell of Bristow (which castell was sometime taken
from his ancestors by king Iohn) albeit he did not long enioy these
great honors, sith he died 1446. without issue, and seuen yéeres
after his father.

[Sidenote: Brunt Keysy.]
After we be past the Wight, we go forward and come vnto Poole hauen,
wherein is an Ile, called Brunt Keysy, in which was sometime a
parish-church, and but a chapell at this present, as I heare. There
are also two other Iles, but as yet I know not their names.

[Sidenote: Portland.]
We haue (after we are passed by these) another Ile, or rather Byland
also vpon the coast named Portland not far from Waymouth or the
Gowy, a prettie fertile peece though without wood, of ten miles in
circuit, now well inhabited, but much better heretofore, and yet
are there about foure score housholds in it. There is but one street
of houses therein, the rest are dispersed, howbeit they belong all
to one parish-church, whereas in time past there were two within
the compasse of the same. There is also a castell of the kings,
who is lord of the Ile, although the bishop of Winchester be patrone
of the church, the parsonage whereof is the fairest house in all
the péece. The people there are no lesse excellent slingers of
stones than were the Baleares, who would neuer giue their children
their dinners till they had gotten the same with their slings, and
therefore their parents vsed to hang their meate verie high vpon
some bough, to the end that he which strake it downe might onlie
haue it, whereas such as missed were sure to go without it, Florus
lib. 3. cap. 8. Which feat the Portlands vse for the defense of
their Iland, and yet otherwise are verie couetous. And wheras in
time past they liued onlie by fishing, now they fall to tillage.
Their fire bote is brought out of the Wight, and other places, yet
doo they burne much cow doong dried in the sunne, for there is I
saie no wood in the Ile, except a few elmes that be about the
church. There would some grow there, no doubt, if they were willing
to plant it, although the soile lie verie bleake and open. It is
not long since this was vnited to the maine, and likelie yer long
to be cut off againe.

Being past this we raise another, also in the mouth of the Gowy,
betweene Colsford and Lime, of which for the smalnesse thereof I
[Sidenote: Iardsey.]
[Sidenote: Gardesey.]
make no great account. Wherefore giuing ouer to intreat any farther
of it, I cast about to Iardsey, and Gardesey, which Iles with their
appurtenances apperteined in times past to the Dukes of Normandie,
but now they remaine to our Quéene, as parcell of Hamshire and
iurisdiction of Winchester, & belonging to hir crowne, by meanes
of a composition made betweene K. Iohn of England and the K. of
France, when the dominions of the said prince began so fast to
decrease, as Thomas Sulmo saith.

[Sidenote: Iardsey.]
Of these two, Iardsey is the greatest, an Iland hauing thirtie
miles in compasse, as most men doo coniecture. There are likewise
in the same twelue parish-churches, with a colledge, which hath a
Deane and Prebends. It is distant from Gardsey full 21. miles, or
thereabouts, and made notable, by meanes of a bloudie fact doone
there in Queene Maries daies, whereby a woman called Perotine Massie
wife vnto an honest minister or préest, being great with childe by
hir husband, was burned to ashes: through the excéeding crueltie
of the Deane and Chapiter, then contending manifestlie against God
for the mainteinance of their popish and antichristian kingdome.
In this hir execution, and at such time as the fire caught holde
of hir wombe, hir bellie brake, and there issued a goodly manchilde
from, hir, with such force that it fell vpon the cold ground quite
[Sidenote: Horrible murther.]
beyond the heate and furie of the flame, which quicklie was taken
vp and giuen from one tormentor and aduersarie to an other to looke
vpon, whose eies being after a while satisfied with the beholding
thereof, they threw it vnto the carcase of the mother which burned
[Sidenote: Gardsey.]
in the fire, whereby the poore innocent was consumed to ashes, whom
that furious element would gladlie haue left vntouched, & wherevnto
it ministred (as you heare) an hurtlesse passage. In this latter
also, there haue béene in times past, fine religious houses, and
nine castels, howbeit in these daies there is but one parish-church
left standing in the same. There are also certeine other small
[Sidenote: S. Hilaries.]
Ilands, which Henrie the second in his donation calleth Insulettas,
beside verie manie rocks, whereof one called S. Hilaries (wherein
sometime was a monasterie) is fast vpon Iardsey, another is named
[Sidenote: Cornet.]
[Sidenote: Serke.]
the Cornet, which hath a castel not passing an arrow shot from
Gardsey. The Serke also is betwéene both, which is six miles about,
and hath another annexed to it by an Isthmus or Strictland, wherein
was a religious house, & therwithall great store of conies.

[Sidenote: Brehoc.]
[Sidenote: Gytho.]
[Sidenote: Herme.]
There is also the Brehoc, the Gytho, and the Herme, which latter
is foure miles in compasse, and therein was sometime a Canonrie,
that afterward was conuerted into a house of Franciscanes. There
are two other likewise neere vnto that of S. Hilarie, of whose
[Sidenote: Burhoo, aliàs the Ile of rats.]
names I haue no notice. There is also the rockie Ile of Burhoo,
but now the Ile of rats, so called of the huge plentie of rats that
are found there, though otherwise it be replenished with infinit
[Sidenote: Turkie conies.]
store of conies, betwéene whome and the rats, as I coniecture, the
same which we call Turkie conies, are oftentimes produced among
those few houses that are to be seene in this Iland. Some are of
the opinion that there hath béene more store of building in this
Ile than is at this present to be seene, & that it became abandoned
through multitudes of rats, but hereof I find no perfect warrantise
that I may safelie trust vnto, yet in other places I read of the
like thing to haue happened, as in Gyara of the Cyclades, where
the rats increased so fast that they draue away the people. Varro
speaketh of a towne in Spaine that was ouerthrowne by conies. The
Abderits were driuen out of Thracia by the increase of mice & frogs;
and so manie conies were there on a time in the Iles Maiorca and
Minorca now perteining to Spaine) that the people began to starue
for want of bread, and their cattell for lacke of grasse. And
bicause the Ilanders were not able to ouercome them, Augustus was
constreined to send an armie of men to destroie that needlesse
[Sidenote: Causes of the desolation of sundrie cities and townes.]
brood. Plin. lib. 8. cap. 55. A towne also in France sometime
became desolate onelie by frogs and todes. Another in Africa by
locustes and also by grashoppers, as Amicla was by snakes and
adders. Theophrast telleth of an whole countrie consumed by the
palmer-worme, which is like vnto an huge caterpiller. Plinie
writeth of a prouince vpon the borders of Aethiopia made void of
people by ants and scorpions, and how the citizens of Megara in
Grecia were faine to leaue that citie through multitudes of bées,
as waspes had almost driuen the Ephesians out of Ephesus. But this
of all other (whereof Aelianus intreateth) is most woonderfull,
that when the Cretenses were chased out of a famous citie of their
Iland by infinit numbers of bees, the said bees conuerted their
houses into hiues, and made large combes in them which reached from
wall to wall, wherein they reserued their honie. Which things being
dulie considered, I doo not denie the possibilitie of the expulsion
of the inhabitants out of the Ile of Burhoo by rats, although I
say that I doo not warrant the effect, bicause I find it not set
downe directlie in plaine words.

[Sidenote: Alderney.]
Beside this there is moreouer the Ile of Alderney a verie pretie
[Sidenote: _Comment. Brit._]
plot, about seuen miles in compasse, wherin a préest not long since
did find a coffin of stone, in which lay the bodie of an huge giant,
whose fore téeth were so big as a mans fist, as Leland dooth report.
Certes this to me is no maruell at all, sith I haue read of greater,
and mentioned them alreadie in the beginning of this booke. Such
a tooth also haue they in Spaine wherevnto they go in pilgrimage
as vnto S. Christophers tooth, but it was one of his eie teeth, if
Ludouicus Viues say true, who went thither to offer vnto the same.
S. August. de ciuit, lib. 15. cap. 9. writeth in like sort, of such
another found vpon the coast of Vtica, and thereby gathereth that
all men in time past were not onlie far greater than they be now,
[Sidenote: _Iliad. 6._]
but also the giants farre exceeding the huge stature and height of
the highest of them all. Homer complaineth that men in his time
were but dwarfes in comparison of such as liued in the wars of
[Sidenote: _Iliad. 5. & 7._]
Troy. See his fift Iliad, where he speaketh of Diomedes, and how
he threw a stone at Aeneas, (which 14. men of his time were not
[Sidenote: _Virgilius Aen. 12._]
able to stirre) and therewith did hit him on the thigh and ouerthrew
him. Virgil also noteth no lesse in his owne deuise, but Iuvenal
bréefelie comprehendeth all this in his 15. Satyra, where he saith:

  Saxa inclinatis per humum quaesita lacertis
  Incipiunt torquere, domestica seditione
  Tela, nec hunc lapidem, quali se Turnus, & Aiax,
  Et quo Tytides percussit pondere coxam
  Aeneae: sed quem valeant emittere dextrae
  Illis dissimiles, & nostro tempore nata.
  Nam genus hoc viuo iam decrescebat Homero,
  Terra malos homines nunc educat, atque pusillos,
  Ergo Deus quicunque aspexit, ridet, & odit.

But to returne againe vnto the Ile of Alderney, from whence I haue
digressed. Herein also is a prettie towne with a parish-church,
great plentie of corne, cattell, conies, and wilde foule, whereby
the inhabitants doo reape much gaine and commoditie: onelie wood
is their want, which they otherwise supplie. The language also of
such as dwell in these Iles, is French; but the wearing of their
haire long, & the attire of those that liued in Gardsey and Iardsey,
vntill the time of king Henrie the eight, was all after the Irish
guise. The Ile of Gardsey also was sore spoiled by the French 1371.
and left so desolate, that onlie one castell remained therein
vntouched.

[Sidenote: Bruchsey.]
Beyond this, and neerer unto the coast of England (for these doo
lie about the verie middest of the British sea) we haue one Iland
called the Bruch or the Bruchsey, lieng about two miles from Poole,
whither men saile from the Fromouth, and wherein is nought else,
but an old chapell, without any other housing.

Next to this also are certeine rocks, which some take for Iles, as
Illeston rocke néere vnto Peritorie, Horestan Ile a mile from
Peritorie by south, Blacke rocke Ile southeast from Peritorie toward
Teygnemouth, and also Chester, otherwise called Plegimundham: but
how (to saie truth) or where this latter lieth, I cannot make report
as yet, neuerthelesse sith Leland noteth them togither, I thinke
it not my part to make separation of them.

[Sidenote: Mount Iland.]
From hence the next Ile is called Mount Iland, otherwise Mowtland,
situate ouer against Lough, about two miles from the shore, and
well néere thrée miles in compasse. This Iland hath no inhabitants,
but onelie the warrenner and his dog, who looketh vnto the conies
there: notwithstanding that vpon the coast thereof in time of the
yeere, great store of pilchards is taken, and carried from thence
into manie places of our countrie. It hath also a fresh well comming
out of the rocks, which is worthie to be noted in so small a compasse
of ground. Moreouer in the mouth of the créeke that leadeth vnto
[Sidenote: S. Nicholas Iland.]
Lough, or Loow, as some call it, there is another little Iland of
about eight acres of ground called S. Nicholas Ile, and midwaie
betweene Falmouth and Dudman (a certeine Promontorie) is such
[Sidenote: Greefe.]
[Sidenote: Inis Prynin.]
another named the Gréefe, wherein is great store of gulles & sea
foule. As for Inis Prynin, it lieth within the Baie, about three
miles from Lizards, and containeth not aboue two acres of ground,
from which Newltjn is not far distant, and wherein is a poore
fisher-towne and a faire wel-spring, wherof as yet no writer hath
[Sidenote: S. Michaels mount.]
made mention. After these (omitting Pendinant in the point of
Falmouth hauen) we came at last to saint Michaels mount, whereof
I find this description readie to my hand in Leland.

The compasse of the root of the mount of saint Michael is not much
more than halfe a mile, and of this the south part is pasturable
and bréedeth conies, the residue high and rockie soile. In the
north side thereof also is a garden, with certeine houses and shops
for fishermen. Furthermore, the waie to the mountaine lieth at the
north side, and is frequented from halfe eb to halfe floud, the
entrance beginning at the foot of the hill, and so ascending by
steps and greeces westward, first; and then eastward to the vtter
ward of the church. Within the same ward also is a court stronglie
walled, wherein on the south side is a chapell of S. Michaell, and
in the east side another of our ladie. Manie times a man may come
to the hill on foot. On the north northwest side hereof also, is
a Piere for botes and ships, and in the Baie betwixt the mount and
Pensardz are seene at the lowe water marke, diuers roots and stubs
of trées, beside hewen stone, sometimes of doores & windowes, which
are perceiued in the inner part of the Baie, and import that there
hath not onelie beene building, but also firme ground, whereas the
[Sidenote: S. Clements Ile.]
salt water doth now rule and beare the maisterie. Beyond this is
an other little Ile, called S. Clements Ile, of a chapell there
dedicated to that saint. It hath a little from it also the Ile
called Mowshole, which is not touched in any Chard. As for Mowshole
it selfe, it is a towne of the maine, called in Cornish Port Enis,
that is, Portus insulae, whereof the said Ile taketh denomination,
and in tin workes néere vnto the same there hath beene found of
late, speare heds, battell axes, and swords of copper wrapped vp
in linnen, and scarselie hurt with rust or other hinderance. Certes
the sea hath won verie much in this corner of our Iland, but
chéefelie betwéene Mowshole and Pensardz.

Hauing thus passed ouer verie neere all such Iles, as lie vpon the
south coast of Britaine, and now being come vnto the west part of
our countrie, a sudden Pirie catcheth hold of vs (as it did before,
when we went to Iardsey) and carrieth vs yet more westerlie among
[Sidenote: Sylley Iles or Syl.]
the flats of Sylley. Such force dooth the southeast wind often
shewe vpon poore trauellers in those parts, as the south and
southwest dooth vpon strangers against the British coast, that are
not skilfull of our rodes and harborowes. Howbeit such was our
successe in this voiage, that we feared no rocks, more than did
king Athelstane, when he subdued them (and soone after builded a
colledge of preests at S. Burien, in performance of his vow made
when he enterprised this voiage for his safe returne) nor anie
tempest of weather in those parts that could annoie our passage.
Perusing therefore the perils whereinto we were pitifullie plunged,
we found the Syllane Ilands (places often robbed by the Frenchmen
and Spaniards) to lie distant from the point of Cornewall, about
three or foure hours sailing, or twentie English miles, as some
men doo account it. There are of these (as I said) to the number
of one hundreth fortie seauen in sight, whereof each one is greater
or lesse than other, and most of them sometime inhabited: howbeit,
there are twentie of them, which for their greatnesse and commodities
excéed all the rest. Thereto (if you respect their position) they
are situat in maner of a circle or ring, hauing an huge lake or
portion of the sea in the middest of them, which is not without
perill to such as with small aduisement enter into the same. Certes
it passeth my cunning, either to name or to describe all these one
hundreth fourtie seauen, according to their estate; neither haue
I had anie information of them, more than I haue gathered by Leland,
or gotten out of a map of their description, which I had sometime
of Reginald Woolfe: wherfore omitting as it were all the rags, and
such as are not worthie to haue anie time spent about their particular
descriptions, I will onelie touch the greatest, and those that lie
togither (as I said) in maner of a roundle.

[Sidenote: S. Maries Ile.]
The first and greatest of these therefore, called S. Maries Ile,
is about fine miles ouer, or nine miles in compasse. Therein also
is a parish-church, and a poore towne belonging thereto, of threescore
housholds, beside a castell, plentie of corne, conies, wild swans,
puffens, gulles, cranes, & other kinds of foule in great abundance.
[Sidenote: Agnus Ile.]
This fertile Iland being thus viewed, we sailed southwards by the
Norman rocke, and S. Maries sound vnto Agnus Ile, which is six
miles ouer, and hath in like sort one towne or parish within the
same of fiue or six housholds, beside no small store of hogs &
conies of sundrie colours, verie profitable to their owners. It is
not long since this Ile was left desolate, for when the inhabitants
thereof returned from a feast holden in S. Maries Ile, they were
[Sidenote: Annot.]
all drowned, and not one person left aliue. There are also two
other small Ilands, betwéene this and the Annot, whereof I find
nothing worthie relation: for as both of them ioind togither are
not comparable to the said Annot for greatnesse and circuit, so
[Sidenote: Minwisand.]
[Sidenote: Smithy sound.]
they want both hogs and conies, wherof Annot hath great plentie.
There is moreouer the Minwisand, from whence we passe by the Smithy
[Sidenote: Suartigan.]
[Sidenote: Rousuian.]
sound (leauing thrée little Ilands on the left hand, vnto the
[Sidenote: Rousuiar.]
[Sidenote: Cregwin.]
Suartigan Iland, then to Rousuian, Rousuiar, and the Cregwin, which
seauen are (for the most part) replenished with conies onelie, and
wild garlike, but void of wood & other commodities, sauing of a
short kind of grasse, or here & there some firzes wheron their
conies doo féed.

Leauing therefore these desert peeces, we incline a little toward
[Sidenote: Moncarthat.]
[Sidenote: Inis Welseck.]
[Sidenote: Suethiall.]
the northwest, where we stumble or run vpon Moncarthat, Inis Welseck,
[Sidenote: Rat Iland.]
& Suethiall. We came in like sort vnto Rat Iland, wherein are so
manie monstrous rats, that if anie horsses, or other beasts, happen
to come thither, or be left there by negligence but one night, they
[Sidenote: Anwall.]
[Sidenote: Brier.]
are sure to be deuoured & eaten vp, without all hope of recouerie.
There is moreouer the Anwall and the Brier, Ilands in like sort
void of all good furniture, conies onelie excepted, and the Brier
(wherein is a village, castell, and parish-church) bringeth foorth
no lesse store of hogs, and wild foule, than Rat Iland doth of
rats, whereof I greatlie maruell.

[Sidenote: Rusco.]
By north of the Brier, lieth the Rusco, which hath a Labell or
[Sidenote: Inis widdon.]
Byland stretching out toward the southwest, called Inis widdon.
This Rusco is verie neere so great as that of S. Maries. It hath
moreouer an hold, and a parish within it, beside great store of
conies and wild foule, whereof they make much gaine in due time of
[Sidenote: Round Iland.]
[Sidenote: S. Lides.]
the yeare. Next vnto this we come to the Round Iland, which is
about a mile ouer, then to S. Lides Iland, (wherein is a parish-church
dedicated to that Saint, beside conies, wood, and wild foule, of
[Sidenote: Notho.]
[Sidenote: Auing.]
which two later there is some indifferent store) the Notho, the
Auing, (one of them being situat by south of another, and the Auing
halfe a mile ouer, which is a iust halfe lesse than the Notho) and
[Sidenote: Tyan.]
the Tyan, which later is a great Iland, furnished with a parish-church,
[Sidenote: S. Martines.]
and no small plentie of conies as I heare. After the Tyan we come
to S. Martines Ile, wherein is a faire towne, the Ile it selfe
being next vnto the Rusco for greatnesse, and verie well furnished
with conies & fresh springs. Also betwixt this and S. Maries, are
[Sidenote: Knolworth.]
[Sidenote: Sniuilliuer.]
[Sidenote: Menwetham.]
[Sidenote: Vollis. 1.]
ten other, smaller, which reach out of the northeast into the
[Sidenote: Surwihe.]
[Sidenote: Vollis. 2.]
[Sidenote: Arthurs Ile.]
[Sidenote: Guiniliuer.]
[Sidenote: Nenech.]
[Sidenote: Gothrois.]
southwest, as Knolworth, Sniuilliuer, Menwetham, Vollis. 1. Surwihe,
Vollis. 2. Arthurs Iland, Guiniliuer, Nenech and Gothrois, whose
estates are diuers: howbeit as no one of these is to be accounted
great in comparison of the other, so they all yéeld a short grasse
méet for sheepe and conies, as doo also the rest. In the greater
Iles likewise (whose names are commonlie such as those of the townes
or churches standing in the same) there are (as I here) sundry
lakes, and those neuer without great plentie of wild foule, so that
the Iles of Sylley, are supposed to be no lesse beneficiall to
their lords, than anie other whatsoeuer, within the compasse of
[Sidenote: Wild swine in Sylley.]
our Ile, or neere vnto our coasts. In some of them also are wild
swine. And as these Iles are supposed to be a notable safegard to
the coast of Cornewall, so in diuerse of them great store of tin
is likewise to be found. There is in like maner such plentie of
fish taken among these same, that beside the feeding of their swine
withall, a man shall haue more there for a penie, than in London
for ten grotes. Howbeit their cheefe commoditie is made by Keigh,
which they drie, cut in peeces, and carie ouer into little Britaine,
where they exchange it there, for salt, canuas, readie monie, or
other merchandize which they doo stand in need of. A like trade
haue some of them also, with Buckhorne or dried whiting, as I heare.
But sith the author of this report did not flatlie auouch it, I
passe ouer that fish as not in season at this time. Thus haue we
viewed the richest and most wealthie Iles of Sylley, from whence
we must direct our course eastwards, vnto the mouth of the Sauerne,
and then go backe againe vnto the west point of Wales, continuing
still our voiage along vpon the west coast of Britaine, till we
come to the Soluey whereat the kingdomes part, & from which foorth
on we must touch such Ilands as lie vpon the west and north shore,
till we be come againe vnto the Scotish sea, and to our owne
dominions.

[Sidenote: Helenus.]
From the point of Cornewall therefore, or promontorie of Helenus
[Sidenote: Priamus.]
(so called, as some thinke, bicause Helenus the son of Priamus who
arriued here with Brute lieth buried there, except the sea haue
washed awaie his sepulchre) vntill we come vnto the mouth of Sauerne,
we haue none Ilands at all that I doo know or heare of, but one
litle Byland, Cape or Peninsula, which is not to be counted of in
[Sidenote: Pendinas.]
this place. And yet sith I haue spoken of it, you shall vnderstand,
that it is called Pendinas, and beside that the compasse thereof
is not aboue a mile, this is to be remembered farder thereof, how
there standeth a Pharos or light therein, for ships which saile by
those coasts in the night. There is also at the verie point of the
said Pendinas, a chappell of saint Nicholas, beside the church of
saint Ia, an Irish woman saint. It belonged of late to the Lord
Brooke, but now (as I gesse) the Lord Mountioy enioieth it. There
is also a blockhouse, and a péere in the eastside thereof, but the
péere is sore choked with sand, as is the whole shore furthermore
from S. Ies vnto S. Carantokes, insomuch that the greatest part of
this Byland is now couered with sands, which the sea casteth vp,
and this calamitie hath indured little aboue fiftie yeares, as the
inhabitants doo affirme.

There are also two rocks neere vnto Tredwy, and another not farre
from Tintagell, all which many of the common sort doo repute and
take for Iles: wherefore as one desirous to note all, I thinke it
not best that these should be omitted: but to proceed. When we be
come further, I meane vnto the Sauerne mouth, we meet the two
Holmes, of which one is called Stepholme, and the other Flatholme,
of their formes beeing in déed parcels of ground and low soiles
fit for little else than to beare grasse for cattell, whereof they
take those names. For Holme is an old Saxon word, applied to all
such places. Of these also Stepholme lieth south of the Flatholme,
about foure or fiue miles; the first also a mile and an halfe, the
other two miles or thereabout in length; but neither of them a mile
and an halfe in breadth, where they doo seeme to be the broadest.

It should seeme by some that they are not worthie to be placed
among Ilands: yet othersome are of opinion, that they are not
altogither so base, as to be reputed amongst flats or rocks: but
whatsoeuer they be, this is sure, that they oft annoie such passengers
and merchants as passe and repasse vpon that riuer. Neither doo I
[Sidenote: Barri.]
read of any other Iles which lie by east of these, saue onelie the
[Sidenote: Barri is a flight shot from the shore.]
Barri, and Dunwen: the first of which is so called of one Barroc,
a religious man (as Gyraldus saith) and is about a flight shot from
the shore. Herin also is a rocke standing at the verie entrance
of the cliffe, which hath a little rift or chine vpon the side,
wherevnto if a man doo laie his eare, he shall heare a noise, as
if smithes did worke at the forge, sometimes blowing with their
bellowes, and sometimes striking and clinking with hammers, whereof
manie men haue great wonder; and no maruell. It is about a mile in
compasse, situat ouer against Aberbarry, and hath a chappell in
it.

[Sidenote: Dunwen.]
Dunwen is so called of a church (dedicated to a Welsh woman saint,
called Dunwen) that standeth there. It lieth more than two miles
from Henrosser, right against Neuen, and hath within it two faire
mils, & great store of conies. Certes if the sand increase so fast
hereafter as it hath done of late about it, it will be vnited to
the maine within a short season. Beyond these and toward the coast
[Sidenote: Caldee.]
of southwales lie two other Ilands, larger in quantitie than the
Holmes, of which the one is called Caldee or Inis Pyr. It hath a
parish-church with a spire steeple, and a pretie towne belonging
to the countie of Pembroke, and iurisdiction of one Dauid in Wales.
Leland supposeth the ruines that are found therein to haue béene
of an old priorie sometimes called Lille, which was a cell belonging
to the monasterie of S. Dogmael, but of this I can saie nothing.
[Sidenote: Londy.]
The other hight Londy, wherein is also a village or towne, and of
this Iland the parson of the said towne is not onelie the captaine,
but hath thereto weife, distresse, and all other commodities
belonging to the same. It is little aboue sixteene miles from the
coast of Wales, though it be thirtie from Caldée, and yet it serueth
(as I am informed) lord and king in Deuonshire. Moreouer in this
Iland is great plentie of sheepe, but more conies, and therewithall
of verie fine and short grasse for their better food & pasturage;
likewise much Sampere vpon the shore, which is carried from thence
in barrels. And albeit that there be not scarslie fourtie housholds
in the whole, yet the inhabitants there with huge stones (alredie
prouided) may keepe off thousands of their enimies, bicause it is
not possible for anie aduersaries to assaile them, but onelie at
one place, and with a most dangerous entrance. In this voiage also
we met with two other Ilands, one of them called Shepes Ile, the
other Rat Ile; the first is but a little plot lieng at the point
of the Baie, before we come at the Blockehouse which standeth north
of the same, at the verie entrie into Milford hauen vpon the
eastside. By north also of Shepes Ile, and betwéene it & Stacke
rocke, which lieth in the verie middest of the hauen, at another
point is Rat Ile yet smaller than the former, but what commodities
are to be found in them as yet I cannot tell. Schalmey the greater
[Sidenote: Schalmey.]
and the lesse lie northwest of Milford hauen a good waie. They
belong both to the crowne, but are not inhabited, bicause they be
so often spoiled with pirates. Schoncold Ile ioineth vnto great
[Sidenote: Schoncold.]
Schalmey, and is bigger than it, onlie a passage for ships parteth
them, whereby they are supposed to be one: Leland noteth them to
lie in Milford hauen. Beside these also we found the Bateholme,
Stockeholme, Midland, and Gresholme Iles, and then doubling the
Wellock point, we came into a Baie, where we saw saint Brides Iland,
and another in the Sound betwéene Ramsey and the point, of all
which Iles and such rocks as are offensiue to mariners that passe
by them, it may be my hap to speake more at large hereafter.

[Sidenote: Limen or Ramsey.]
Limen (as Ptolomie calleth it) is situat ouer against S. Dauids in
Wales (wherevnto we must néeds come, after we be past another little
one, which some men doo call Gresholme) & lieth directlie west of
Schalmey. In a late map I find this Limen to be called in English
Ramsey: Leland also confirmeth the same, and I cannot learne more
thereof, than that it is much greater than anie of the other last
mentioned (sithens I described the Holmes) and for temporall
iurisdiction a member of Penbrookeshire, as it is vnto S. Dauids
for matters concerning the church. Leland in his commentaries of
England lib. 8. saieth that it contained thrée Ilets, whereof the
bishop of S. Dauids is owner of the greatest, but the chanter of
S. Dauids claimeth the second, as the archdeacon of Cairmarden
dooth the third. And in these is verie excellent pasture for sheepe
and horses, but not for other horned beasts which lacke their vpper
téeth by nature (whose substance is conuerted into the nourishment
of their hornes) and therefore cannot bite so low. Next vnto this
Ile we came to Mawr, an Iland in the mouth of Mawr, scant a bow
[Sidenote: Mawr.]
shoot ouer, and enuironed at the low water with fresh, but at the
high with salt, and here also is excellent catching of herings.

After this, procéeding on still with our course, we fetched a
compasse, going out of the north toward the west, and then turning
againe (as the coast of the countrie leadeth) vntill we sailed full
south, leauing the shore still on our right hand, vntill we came
vnto a couple of Iles, which doo lie vpon the mouth of the Soch,
one of them being distant (as we gessed) a mile from the other,
and neither of them of anie greatnesse almost worthie to be remembred.
The first that we came vnto is called Tudfall, and therein is a
[Sidenote: Tudfall.]
church, but without anie parishioners, except they be shéepe and
conies. The quantitie thereof also is not much aboue six acres of
[Sidenote: Penthlin.]
ground, measured by the pole. The next is Penthlin, Myrach, or
Mererosse, situat in maner betwixt Tudfall or Tuidall and the shore,
and herein is verie good pasture for horsses, wherof (as I take
it) that name is giuen vnto it. Next vnto them, we come vnto Gwelyn,
[Sidenote: Guelyn.]
a little Ile which lieth southeast of the fall of Daron or Daren,
a thing of small quantitie, and yet almost parted in the mids by
water, and next of all vnto Bardsey an Iland lieng ouer against
Periuincle the southwest point or promontorie of Northwales (where
Merlin Syluestris lieth buried) and whither the rest of the monks
of Bangor did flie to saue themselues, when 2100. of their fellowes
were slaine by the Saxon princes in the quarell of Augustine the
monke, & the citie of Caerleon or Chester raced to the ground, and
not since reedified againe to anie purpose. Ptolomie calleth this
Iland Lymnos, the Britons Enlhi, and therein also is a parish-church,
as the report goeth. From hence we cast about, gathering still
toward the northest, till we came to Caer Ierienrhod, a notable
rocke situat ouer against the mouth of the Leuenni, wherein standeth
a strong hold or fortresse, or else some towne or village. Certes
we could not well discerne whether of both it was, bicause the wind
blew hard at southwest, the morning was mistie, and our mariners
doubting some flats to be couched not far from thence, hasted awaie
vnto Anglesei, whither we went a pace with a readie wind euen at
our owne desire.

This Iland (which Tacitus mistaketh no doubt for Mona Caesaris,
and so dooth Ptolomie as appeareth by his latitudes) is situat
[Sidenote: Anglesei cut from Wales by working of the sea.]
about two miles from the shore of Northwales. Paulus Iouius gesseth
that it was in time past ioined to the continent, or maine of our
Ile, and onelie cut off by working of the Ocean, as Sicilia
peraduenture was from Italie by the violence of the Leuant or
practise of some king that reigned there. Thereby also (as he saith)
the inhabitants were constreind at the first to make a bridge ouer
into the same, till the breach waxed so great, that no such passage
could anie longer be mainteined. But as these things doo either
not touch my purpose at all, or make smallie with the present
[Sidenote: Anglesei.]
description of this Ile: so (in comming to my matter) Anglesei is
found to be full so great as the Wight, and nothing inferiour, but
rather surmounting it, as that also which Caesar calleth Mona in
fruitfulnesse of soile by manie an hundred fold. In old time it
was reputed and taken for the common granarie to Wales, as Sicilia
was to Rome and Italie for their prouision of corne. In like maner
the Welshmen themselues called it the mother of their countrie,
for giuing their minds wholie to pasturage, as the most easie and
lesse chargeable trade, they vtterlie neglected tillage, as men
that leaned onelie to the fertilitie of this Iland for their corne,
from whence they neuer failed to receiue continuall abundance.
Gyraldus saith that the Ile of Anglesei was no lesse sufficient to
minister graine for the sustentation of all the men of Wales, than
the mountaines called Ereri or Snowdoni in Northwales were to yeeld
plentie of pasture for all the cattell whatsoeuer within the
aforesaid compasse, if they were brought togither and left vpon
the same. It contained moreouer so manie townes welnéere, as there
be daies in a yeare, which some conuerting into Cantreds haue
accompted but for three, as Gyraldus saith. Howbeit as there haue
beene I say 363. townes in Anglesei, so now a great part of that
reckoning is vtterlie shroonke, and so far gone to decaie, that
the verie ruines of them are vnneath to be séene & discerned: and
yet it séemeth to be méetlie well inhabited. Leland noting the
smalnesse of our hundreds in comparison to that they were in time
past, addeth (so far as I remember) that there are six of them in
Anglesei, as Menay, Maltraith, Liuon, Talbellion, Torkalin, and
Tindaithin: herevnto Lhoid saith also how it belonged in old time
vnto the kingdome of Guinhed or Northwales, and that therein at a
towne called Aberfraw, being on the southwestside of the Ile, the
kings of Gwinhed held euermore their palaces, whereby it came to
passe, that the kings of Northwales were for a long time called
kings of Aberfraw, as the Welshmen named the kings of England kings
of London, till better instruction did bring them farther knowledge.

There are in Anglesei many townes and villages, whose names as yet
I cannot orderlie atteine vnto: wherefore I will content my selfe
with the rehearsall of so many as we viewed in sailing about the
coasts, and otherwise heard report of by such as I haue talked
withall. Beginning therefore at the mouth of the Gefni (which riseth
at northeast aboue Gefni or Geuenni, 20. miles at the least into
the land) we passed first by Hundwyn, then by Newborow, Port-Hayton,
Beaumarrais, Penmon, Elian, Almwoch, Burric (whereby runneth a rill
into a creeke) Cornew, Holihed (standing in the promontorie) Gwifen,
Aberfraw, and Cair Cadwalader, of all which, the two latter stand
as it were in a nuke betweene the Geuenni water, and the Fraw,
wherevpon Aberfraw is situate. Within the Iland we heard onelie of
Gefni afore mentioned, of Gristial standing vpon the same water,
of Tefri, of Lanerchimedh, Lachtenfarwy and Bodedrin, but of all
these the cheefe is now Beaumarais, which was builded sometime by
king Edward the first, and therewithall a strong castell about the
yeare 1295. to kéepe that land in quiet. There are also as Leland
saith 31. parish-churches beside 69 chappels, that is, a hundreth
in all. But héerof I can saie little, for lacke of iust instruction.
In time past, the people of this Ile vsed not to seuerall their
grounds, but now they dig stonie hillocks, and with the stones
thereof they make rude walles, much like to those of Deuonshire,
sith they want hedge bote, fire bote, and house bote, or (to saie
at one word) timber, bushes and trees. As for wine, it is so
plentifull and good cheape there most commonlie as in London,
through the great recourse of merchants from France, Spaine, and
Italie vnto the aforesaid Iland. The flesh likewise of such cattell
as is bred there, wherof we haue store yearelie brought vnto Cole
faire in Essex is most delicate, by reason of their excellent
pasture, and so much was it esteemed by the Romans in time past,
that Columella did not onelie commend and preferre them before
those of Liguria, but the emperours themselues being neere hand
also caused their prouision to be made for nete out of Anglesei,
to feed vpon at their owne tables as the most excellent beefe. It
taketh now the name of Angles and Ei, which is to meane the Ile of
Englismen, bicause they wan it in the Conquerors time, vnder the
leading of Hugh earle of Chester, and Hugh of Shrewesburie. Howbeit
they recouered it againe in the time of William Rufus, when they
spoiled the citie of Glocester, ransacked Shrewesburie, and returned
home with great bootie and pillage, in which voiage also they were
holpen greatlie by the Irishmen, who after three yeares ioined with
them againe, and slue the earle of Shrewesburie (which then liued)
with great crueltie. The Welshmen call it Tiremone and Mon, and
[Sidenote: Holie head, or Cair kiby.]
herein likewise is a promontorie or Byland, called Holie head (which
hath in time past beene named Cair kyby, of Kyby a monke that
dwelled there) from whence the readiest passage is commonlie had
out of Northwales to get ouer into Ireland, of which Ile I will
not speake at this time, least I shuld bereaue another of that
trauell. Yet Plinie saith, lib. 4. cap. 16. that it lieth not farre
off from and ouer against the Silures, which then dwelled vpon the
west coast of our Iland, and euen so farre as Dunbritton, and
[Sidenote: Enilsnach, holie Ile.]
beyond: but to our Cair kybi. The Britons named it Enylsnach, or
holie Ile, of the number of carcases of holie men, which they
affirme to haue beene buried there. But herein I maruell not a
little, wherein women had offended, that they might not come thither,
or at the least wise returne from thence without some notable
reproch or shame vnto their bodies. By south also of Hilarie point,
somewhat inclining toward the east, lieth Inis Lygod, a small thing
(God wot) and therefore not worthie great remembrance: neuertheles
not to be omitted, though nothing else inforced the memoriall
thereof, but onelie the number and certeine tale of such Iles as
lie about our Iland. I might also speake of the Ile Mail Ronyad,
which lieth north west of Anglesei by sixe miles; but bicause the
true name hereof, as of manie riuers and streames are to me vnknowne,
I am the more willing to passe them ouer in silence, least I should
be noted to be farther corrupter of such words as I haue no skill
to deliuer and exhibit in their kind. And now to conclude with
the description of the whole Iland, this I will ad moreouer vnto
hir commodities, that as there are the best milstones of white,
red, blew, and gréene gréets, (especiallie in Tindaithin) so there
is great gaines to be gotten by fishing round about this Ile, if
the people there could vse the trade: but they want both cunning
and diligence to take that matter in hand. And as for temporall
regiment, it apperteineth to the countie of Cairnaruon, so in
[Sidenote: Ancient buriall.]
spirituall cases it belongeth to the bishoprike of Bangor. This is
finallie to be noted of Anglesei, that sundrie earthen pots are
often found there of dead mens bones conuerted into ashes, set with
the mouthes downeward contrarie to the vse of other nations, which
turned the brims vpwards, whereof let this suffice.

Hauing thus described Anglesei, it resteth to report furthermore,
how that in our circuit about the same, we met with other little
Ilets, of which one lieth northwest thereof almost ouer against
Butricke mouth, or the fall of the water, that passeth by Butricke.
[Sidenote: Adar.]
[Sidenote: Moil.]
The Britons called it Ynis Ader, that is to say, the Ile of birds
[Sidenote: Rhomaid.]
[Sidenote: Ysterisd.]
in old time, but now it hight Ynis Moil, or Ynis Rhomaid, that is
[Sidenote: Adros.]
the Ile of porpasses. It hath to name likewise Ysterisd, and Adros.
Being past this, we came to the second lieng by north east, ouer
[Sidenote: Lygod.]
against the Hilarie point, called Ynis Ligod, that is to saie, the
Ile of Mise, and of these two this latter is the smallest, neither
[Sidenote: Seriall.]
of them both being of any greatnesse to speake of. Ynis Seriall or
[Sidenote: Prestholme.]
Prestholme, lieth ouer against Penmon, or the point called the head
of Mon, where I found a towne (as I told you) of the same denomination.
Ptolomie nameth not this Iland, whereof I maruell. It is parcell
of Flintshire, and of the iurisdiction of S. Asaph, and in fertilitie
of soile, and breed of cattell, nothing inferiour vnto Anglesei
hir mother: although that for quantitie of ground it come infinitelie
[Sidenote: Credine.]
short thereof, and be nothing comparable vnto it. The last Iland
vpon the cost of Wales, hauing now left Anglesei, is called Credine,
and although it lie not properlie within the compasse of my
description, yet I will not let to touch it by the waie, sith the
causey thither from Denbighland, is commonlie ouerflowne. It is
partlie made an Iland by the Conwey, and partlie by the sea. But
to proceed, when we had viewed this place, we passed foorth to S.
Antonies Ile, which is about two or thrée miles compasse or more,
a sandie soile, but yet verie batable for sheepe and cattell, it
is well replenished also with fresh wels, great plentie of wild
foule, conies and quarries of hard ruddie stone, which is oft
brought thence to Westchester, where they make the foundations of
their buildings withall. There are also two parish churches in the
same, dedicated to S. Antonie and S. Iohn, but the people are verie
poore, bicause they be so oft spoiled by pirats, although the lord
of the same be verie wealthie thorough the exchange made with them
of his victuals, for their wares, whereof they make good peniworths,
as théeues commonlie doo of such preies as they get by like escheat,
notwithstanding their landing there is verie dangerous, and onelie
at one place. Howbeit they are constreined to vse it, and there to
[Sidenote: Hilberie.]
make their marts. From hence we went on, vntill we came to the
cape of Ile Brée, or Hilberie, and point of Wyrale, from whence is
a common passage into Ireland, of 18. or 20. houres sailing, if
the wether be not tedious. This Iland at the full sea is a quarter
of a mile from the land, and the streame betwéene foure fadams
déepe, as shipboies haue oft sounded, but at a lowe water a man
may go ouer thither on the sand. The Ile of it selfe is verie sandie
a mile in compasse, and well stored with conies, thither also went
a sort of supersticious fooles in times past, in pilgrimage, to
our ladie of Hilberie, by whose offerings a cell of monkes there,
which belonged to Chester, was cherished and mainteined.

The next Iland vpon the coast of England is Man or Mona Caesaris,
which some name Mana or Manim, but after Ptolomie, Monaoida, as
some thinke, though other ascribe that name to Anglesei, which the
Welshmen doo commonlie call Mon, as they doo this Manaw. It is
supposed to be the first, as Hirtha is the last of the Hebrides.
Hector Boetius noteth a difference betwéene them of 300. miles.
But Plinie saith that Mona is 200000. miles from Camaldunum, lib.
2. cap. 75. It lieth also vnder 53. degrées of latitude, and 30.
minuts, and hath in longitude 16. degrees and 40. minuts, abutting
on the north side vpon S. Ninians in Scotland, Furnesfels on the
east, Prestholme and Anglesei on the south, and Vlsther in Ireland
on the west. It is greater than Anglesei by a third, and there are
two riuers in the same, whose heads doo ioine so néere, that they
doo seeme in maner to part the Ile in twaine. Some of the ancient
[Sidenote: Eubonia.]
[Sidenote: Meuania.]
writers, as Ethicus, &c: call it Eubonia, and other following
Orosius, Meuana or Maeuania, howbeit after Beda and the Scotish
histories, the Meuaniae are all those Iles aforesaid called the
Hebrides, Eubonides, or Hebudes (whereof William Malmesburie, lib.
1. de regibus (beside this our Mona) will haue Anglesei also to be
one. Wherefore it séemeth hereby that a number of our late writers
ascribing the said name vnto Mona onelie, haue not beene a little
deceiued. Iornandes lib. de Getis speaketh of a second Meuania;
"Habet & aliam Meuaniam (saith he) necnon & Orchadas." But which
should be prima, as yet I do not read, except it should be Anglesei;
and then saith Malmesburie well. In like sort Propertius speaketh
of a Meuania, which he called Nebulosa, but he meaneth it euidentlie
of a little towne in Vmbria where he was borne, lib. 4. eleg. De
vrbe Rom. Wherfore there néedeth no vse of his authoritie. This
in the meane time is euident out of Orosius, lib. 1. capite 2. that
Scots dwelled somtime in this Ile, as also in Ireland, which Ethicus
also affirmeth of his owne time, and finallie confirmeth that the
Scots and Irish were sometime one people. It hath in length 24.
miles, and 8. in bredth, and is in maner of like distance from
Galloway in Scotland, Ireland and Cumberland in England, as Buchanan
reporteth.

In this Iland also were some time 1300. families, of which 960.
were in the west halfe, and the rest in the other. But now through
ioining house to house & land to land (a common plague and canker,
which will eat vp all, if prouision be not made in time to withstand
this mischéefe) that number is halfe diminished, and yet many of
the rich inhabiters want roome, and wote not how and where to
bestowe themselues, to their quiet contentations. Certes this
impediment groweth not by reason that men were greater in bodie,
than they haue béene in time past, but onelie for that their
insatiable desire of inlarging their priuate possessions increaseth
still vpon them, and will doo more, except they be restrained: but
to returne to our purpose. It was once spoiled by the Scots in the
time of king Athelstane, chéeflie by Anlafus in his flight from
the bloudie battell, wherein Constantine king of Scotland was
ouercome: secondlie by the Scots 1388. after it came to the possession
of the English, for in the beginning the kings of Scotland had this
Iland vnder their dominion, almost from their first arriuall in
this Iland, and as Beda saith till Edwine king of the Northumbers
wan it from them, and vnited it to his kingdome. After the time of
Edwine, the Scots gat the possession thereof againe, and held it
till the Danes & Norwaies wan it from them, who also kept it (but
with much trouble) almost 370. yeares vnder the gouernance of their
viceroies, whome the kings of Norwaie inuested vnto that honor,
till Alexander the third king of that name in Scotland recouered
it from them, with all the rest of those Iles that lie vpon the
west coast, called also Sodorenses in the daies of Magnus king of
Norwaie. And sithens that time the Scotish princes haue not ceased
to giue lawes to such as dwelled there, but also from time to time
appointed such bishops as should exercise ecclesiasticall iurisdiction
[Sidenote: _Chronica Tinemuthi._]
in the same, till it was won from them by our princes, and so vnited
vnto the realme of England. Finallie, how after sundrie sales
bargains and contracts of matrimonie (for I read that William
Scroope the kings Vicechamberleine, did buy this Ile and crowne
thereof of the lord William Montacute earle of Sarum) it came vnto
the ancestours of the earles of Darbie, who haue béene commonlie
said to be kings of Man, the discourse folowing shall more at large
declare. Giraldus noteth a contention betwéene the kings of England
& Ireland for the right of this Iland, but in the end, when by a
comprimise the triall of the matter was referred to the liues or
deaths of such venemous wormes as should be brought into the same,
and it was found that they died not at all, as the like doo in
Ireland, sentence passed with the king of England, & so he reteined
the Iland. But howsoeuer this matter standeth, and whether anie
such thing was done at all or not, sure it is that the people of
the said Ile were much giuen to witchcraft and sorcerie (which they
learned of the Scots a nation greatlie bent to that horrible
practise) in somuch that their women would oftentimes sell wind to
the mariners, inclosed vnder certeine knots of thred, with this
iniunction, that they which bought the same, should for a great
[Sidenote: Tall men in Man.]
gale vndoo manie, and for the lesse a fewer or smaller number. The
stature of the men and also fertilitie of this Iland are much
commended, and for the latter supposed verie néere to be equall
with that of Anglesei, in all commodities.

There are also these townes therein, as they come now to my
remembrance, Rushen, Dunglasse, Holme towne, S. Brids, Bala cury
(the bishops house) S. Mich. S. Andrew, kirk Christ, kirk Louel,
S. Mathees, kirk S. Anne, Pala sala, kirk S. Marie, kirk Concane,
kirk Malu, and Home. But of all these Rushen with the castell is
[Sidenote: Riuers.]
the strongest. It is also in recompense of the common want of wood,
indued with sundrie pretie waters, as first of al the Burne rising
in the northside of Warehill botoms, and branching out by southwest
of kirk S. An, it séemeth to cut off a great part of the eastside
thereof, from the residue of that Iland. From those hils also (but
of the south halfe) commeth the Holme and Holmey, by a towne of
the same name, in the verie mouth whereof lieth the Pile afore
mentioned. They haue also the Bala passing by Bala cury, on the
westside, and the Rame on the north, whose fall is named Ramesei
hauen, as I doo read in Chronicles.

[Sidenote: Hilles.]
There are moreouer sundrie great hils therein, as that wherevpon
S. Mathees standeth, in the northeast part of the Ile, a parcell
whereof commeth flat south, betwéene kirk Louell, and kirk Marie,
yéelding out of their botoms the water Bala, whereof I spake before.
Beside these and well toward the south part of the Ile, I find the
Warehils, which are extended almost from the west coast ouertwhart
[Sidenote: Hauens.]
vnto the Burne streame. It hath also sundrie hauens, as Ramsei
hauen, by north Laxam hauen, by east Port Iris, by southwest Port
Home, and Port Michell, by west. In like sort there are diuers
[Sidenote: Calfe of man.]
[Sidenote: The pile.]
[Sidenote: S. Michels Ile.]
Ilets annexed to the same, as the Calfe of man on the south, the
[Sidenote: Sheepe.]
Pile on the west, and finallie S. Michels Ile in the gulfe called
Ranoths waie in the east. Moreouer the sheepe of this countrie are
excéeding huge, well woolled, and their tailes of such greatnesse
[Sidenote: Hogs.]
as is almost incredible. In like sort their hogs are in maner
[Sidenote: Barnacles.]
monstrous. They haue furthermore great store of barnacles bréeding
vpon their coasts, but yet not so great store as in Ireland, and
those (as there also) of old ships, ores, masts, peeces of rotten
[Sidenote: Barnacles neither fish nor flesh.]
timber as they saie, and such putrified pitched stuffe, as by wrecke
hath happened to corrupt vpon that shore. Howbeit neither the
inhabitants of this Ile, nor yet of Ireland can readilie saie
whether they be fish or flesh, for although the religious there
vsed to eat them as fish, yet elsewhere, some haue beene troubled,
for eating of them in times prohibited for heretikes and lollards.

For my part, I haue béene verie desirous to vnderstand the vttermost
of the bréeding of barnacls, & questioned with diuers persons about
the same. I haue red also whatsoeuer is written by forren authors
touching the generation of that foule, & sought out some places
where I haue béene assured to sée great numbers of them: but in
vaine. Wherefore I vtterlie despaired to obteine my purpose, till
this present yeare of Grace 1584. and moneth of Maie, wherein going
to the court at Gréenewich from London by bote, I saw sundrie ships
lieng in the Thames newlie come home, either from Barbarie or the
Canarie Iles (for I doo not well remember now from which of these
places) on whose sides I perceiued an infinit sort of shells to
hang so thicke as could be one by another. Drawing néere also, I
tooke off ten or twelue of the greatest of them, & afterward hauing
opened them, I saw the proportion of a foule in one of them more
perfectlie than in all the rest, sauing that the head was not yet
formed, bicause the fresh water had killed them all (as I take it)
and thereby hindered their perfection. Certeinelie the feathers of
the taile hoong out of the shell at least two inches, the wings
(almost perfect touching forme) were garded with two shels or
shéeldes proportioned like the selfe wings, and likewise the
brestbone had hir couerture also of like shellie substance, and
altogither resembling the figure which Lobell and Pena doo giue
foorth in their description of this foule: so that I am now fullie
persuaded that it is either the barnacle that is ingendred after
one maner in these shels, or some other sea-foule to vs as yet
vnknowen. For by the feathers appearing and forme so apparant, it
cannot be denied, but that some bird or other must proceed of this
substance, which by falling from the sides of the ships in long
voiages, may come to some perfection. But now it is time for me
to returne againe vnto my former purpose.

[Sidenote: Bishop of Man.]
There hath sometime beene, and yet is a bishop of this Ile, who at
the first was called Episcopus Sodorensis, when the iurisdiction
of all the Hebrides belonged vnto him. Whereas now he that is
bishop there, is but a bishops shadow, for albeit that he beare
the name of bishop of Man, yet haue the earles of Darbie, as it is
supposed, the cheefe profit of his sée (sauing that they allow him
[Sidenote: Patrone of Man.]
a little somewhat for a flourish) notwithstanding that they be his
patrons, and haue his nomination vnto that liuing. The first bishop
of this Ile was called Wimundus or Raymundus, and surnamed Monachus
Sauinensis, who by reason of his extreame and tyrannicall crueltie
toward the Ilanders, had first his sight taken from him, & then
was sent into exile. After him succéeded another moonke in king
Stephens daies called Iohn, and after him one Marcus, &c: other
after other in succession, the sée it selfe being now also subiect
[Sidenote: King of Man.]
to the archbishop of Yorke for spirituall iurisdiction. In time
of Henrie the second, this Iland also had a king, whose name was
Cuthred, vnto whome Vinianus the cardinall came as legate 1177.
and wherin Houeden erreth not. In the yeare also 1228. one Reginald
was viceroy or petie king of Man, afterward murthered by his
subiects. Then Olauus, after him Hosbach the sonne of Osmond Hacon,
1290. who being slaine, Olauus and Gotredus parted this kingdome
of Sodora, in such wise, that this had all the rest of the Iles,
the other onelie the Ile of Man at the first; but after the slaughter
of Gotredus, Olauus held all, after whom Olauus his sonne succeeded.
Then Harald sonne to Olauus, who being entered in Maie, and drowned
vpon the coastes of Ireland, his brother Reginald reigned twentie
and seuen daies, and then was killed the first of June, whereby
Olauus aliàs Harald sonne to Gotred ruled in the Ile one yeare.
Next vnto him succeeded Magnus the second sonne of Olauus, and last
of all Iuarus, who held it so long as the Norwaies were lords
thereof. But being once come into the hands of the Scots, one Godred
Mac Mares was made lieutenant, then Alane, thirdlie Maurice Okarefer,
and fourthlie one of the kings chapleines, &c. I would gladlie haue
set downe the whole catalog of all the viceroyes and lieutenants:
but sith I can neither come by their names nor successions, I
surcesse to speake any more of them, and also of the Ile it selfe,
whereof this may suffice.

After we haue in this wise described the Ile of Man, with hir
commodities, we returned eastwards backe againe unto the point of
Ramshed, where we found to the number of six Ilets of one sort and
other, whereof the first greatest and most southwesterlie, is named
[Sidenote: Wauay.]
the Wauay. It runneth out in length, as we gessed, about fiue miles
and more from the southeast into the northwest, betwéene which and
the maine land lie two little ones, whose names are Oldborrow and
[Sidenote: Fouldra.]
Fowlney. The fourth is called the Fouldra, and being situate
southeast of the first, it hath a prettie pile or blockhouse therin,
[Sidenote: Fola.]
[Sidenote: Roa.]
which the inhabitants name the pile of Fouldra. By east thereof
in like sort lie the Fola and the Roa, plots of no great compasse,
and yet of all these six, the first and Fouldra are the fairest
[Sidenote: Rauenglasse.]
and most fruitfull. From hence we went by Rauenglasse point, where
lieth an Iland of the same denomination, as Reginald Wolfe hath
noted in his great card, not yet finished, nor likelie to be
published. He noteth also two other Ilets, betweene the same and
the maine land; but Leland speaketh nothing of them (to my remembrance)
neither any other card, as yet set foorth of England: and thus much
of the Ilands that lie vpon our shore in this part of my voiage.

[Sidenote: Iles in Scotland.]
Hauing so exactlie as to me is possible, set downe the names and
positions of such Iles as are to be found vpon the coast of the
Quéenes Maiesties dominions, now it resteth that we procéed orderlie
with those that are séene to lie vpon the coast of Scotland, that
is to saie, in the Irish, the Deucalidonian & the Germans seas,
which I will performe in such order as I may, sith I cannot do so
much therin as I would. Some therefore doo comprehend and diuide
all the Iles that lie about the north coast of this Ile now called
Scotland into thrée parts, sauing that they are either occidentals,
the west Iles, aliàs the Orchades & Zelandine, or the Shetlands.
They place the first betwéene Ireland and the Orchades, so that
they are extended from Man and the point of Cantire almost vnto
the Orchades in the Deucalidonian sea, and after some are called
[Sidenote: Hemodes of some called Aemodes, sée _Plinie, Mela,
Martianus, Capeila, Plutarch. de defect. orac._]
the Hebrides. In this part the old writers in deed placed the
Hebrides or Hemodes, which diuers call the Hebudes and the Aemodes;
albeit the writers varie in their numbers, some speaking of 50
Hebudes and seuen Hemodes; some of fiue Ebudes, as Solinus, and
such as follow his authoritie. Howbeit the late Scottish writers
doo product, a summe of more than 300 of these Ilands in all, which
sometime belonged to the Scots, sometime to the Norwegians, and
sometime to the Danes. The first of these is our Manaw, of which
I haue before intreated: next vnto this is Alisa a desert Ile, yet
replenished with conies, soland foule, and a fit harbor for fishermen
that in time of the yeare lie vpon the coast thereof for herings.
Next vnto this is the Arran, a verie hillie and craggie soile, yet
verie plentifull of fish all about the coast, and wherein is a
verie good hauen: ouer against the mouth whereof lieth the Moll,
which is also no small defence to such seafaring men as seeke harbor
in that part. Then came we by the Fladwa or Pladwa, no lesse
fruitfull and stored with conies than the Bota, Bura, or Botha, of
eight miles long & foure miles broad, a low ground but yet verie
batable, and wherein is good store of short and indifferent pasture:
it hath also a towne there called Rosse, and a castell named the
Camps. There is also another called the Marnech, an Iland of a mile
in length, and halfe a mile in breadth, low ground also but yet
verie fertile. In the mouth likewise of the Glot, lieth the more
Cumber and the lesse, not farre in sunder one from another, and
both fruitfull inough the one for corne, and the other for
Platyceraton. The Auon another Iland lieth about a mile from
Cantire, and is verie commodious to ships, wherof it is called
Auon, that is to saie, Portuosa, or full of harbor: and therefore
the Danes had in time past great vse of it. Then haue we the Raclind,
the Kyntar, the Cray, the Gegaw six miles in length and a mile and
a halfe in breadth; the Dera full of déere, and not otherwise
vnfruitfull: and therefore some thinke that it was called the Ile
[Sidenote: Scarba.]
of déere in old time. Scarba foure miles in length, and one in
breadth, verie little inhabited, and thereinto the sea betwéene
that and the Ile of déere is so swift and violent, that except it
be at certeine times, it is not easilie nauigable. Being past these,
we come to certeine Ilands of no great fame, which lie scattered
here and there, as Bellach, Gyrastell, Longaie, both the Fiolas,
the thrée Yarues, Culbrenin, Duncomell, Lupar, Belnaua, Wikerua,
Calfile, Luing, Sele Ile, Sound, of which the last thrée are
[Sidenote: Slate Ile.]
fruitfull, and belong to the earle of Argile. Then haue we the
Slate, so called of the tiles that are made therin. The Nagsey,
Isdalf, and the Sken (which later is also called Thian, of a wicked
herbe growing there greatlie hurtfull, and in colour not much vnlike
the lillie, sauing that it is of a more wan and féeble colour)
Vderga, kings Ile, Duffa or blacke Ile, Kirke Ile and Triarach.
There is also the Ile Ard, Humble Ile, Greene Ile, and Heth Ile,
Arbor Ile, Gote Ile, Conies Ile aliàs idle Ile, Abrid Ile or bird
Ile, and Lismor, wherein the bishop of Argill sometime held his
palace, being eight miles in length and two miles in breadth, and
not without some mines also of good mettall. There is also the Ile
Ouilia, Siuna, Trect, Shepey, Fladaw, Stone Ile, Gresse, great Ile,
Ardis, Musadell, & Berner, sometime called the holie sanctuarie,
Vghe Ile, Molochasgyr, and Drinacha, now ouergrowne with bushes,
elders, and vtterlie spoiled by the ruines of such great houses as
haue heretofore béene found therin. There is in like sort the Wijc,
the Ranse, and the Caruer.

[Sidenote: Ila.]
In this tract also, there are yet thrée to intreat of, as Ila, Mula
and Iona, of which the first is one of the most, that hath not
béene least accounted of. It is not much aboue 24 miles in length,
and in breadth 16 reaching from the south into the north, and yet
it is an excéeding rich plot of ground verie plentious of corne,
cattell, déere, and also lead, and other mettals, which were easie
to be obteined, if either the people were industrious, or the soile
yéeldable of wood to fine and trie out the same. In this Iland also
there is a lake of swéet water called the Laie, and also a baie
wherein are sundrie Ilands; and therevnto another lake of fresh
water, wherein the Falangam Ile is situate, wherein the souereigne
[Sidenote: Round Ile.]
of all the Iles sometime dwelled. Néere vnto this is the round Ile,
so called of the consultations there had: for there was a court
sometime holden, wherein 14 of the principall inhabitants did
minister iustice vnto the rest, and had the whole disposition of
things committed vnto them, which might rule vnto the benefit of
those Ilands. There is also the Stoneheape, an other Iland so called
of the heape of stones that is therein. On the south side also of
Ila, we find moreouer the Colurne, Mulmor, Osrin, Brigidan, Corkerke,
Humble Ile, Imersga, Bethy, Texa, Shepeie, Naosig, Rinard, Cane,
Tharscher, Aknor, Gret Ile, Man Ile, S. Iohns Ile, and Stackbed.
On the west side thereof also lieth Ouersey, whereby runneth a
perilous sea, and not nauigable, but at certeine houres, Merchant
Ile, Vsabrast, Tanask, Neff, Wauer Ile, Oruans, Hog Ile, and
Colauanso.

[Sidenote: Mula.]
Mula is a right noble Ile, 24 miles in length and so manie in
bredth, rough of soile, yet fruitfull enough: beside woods, déere,
& good harbrough for ships, replenished with diuers and sundrie
townes and castels. Ouer against Columkill also, it hath two riuers,
which yeld verie great store of salmons, and other riuellets now
altogither vnfruitfull, beside two lakes, in each of which is an
Iland: and likewise in euerie of these Ilands a castell. The sea
beating vpon this Ile, maketh foure notable baies wherein great
plentie and verie good herrings are taken. It hath also in the
northwest side Columbria, or the Ile of doues; on the southeast,
Era: both verie commodious for fishing, cattell, and corne, Moreouer,
this is woorth the noting in this Ile aboue all the rest, that it
hath a plesant spring, arising two miles in distance from the shore,
wherein are certeine little egs found, much like vnto indifferent
pearles, both for colour and brightnesse, and thereto full of thicke
humour, which egs being carried by violence of the fresh water vnto
the salt, are there within the space of twelue houres conuerted
into great shels, which I take to be mother pearle; except I be
deceiued.

[Sidenote: Iona.]
Iona was sometime called Columkill, in fame and estimation nothing
inferiour to anie of the other, although in length it excéed little
aboue two miles, and in breadth one. Certes it is verie fruitfull
of all such commodities, as that climat wherein it standeth dooth
yeeld, and beareth the name of Columbus the abbat, of whome I haue
spoken more at large in my Chronologie. There were somtimes also
two monasteries therein, one of moonks builded by Fergus, another
of nuns: and a parish church, beside many chappels builded by the
Scotish kings, and such princes as gouerned in the Iles. And when
the English had once gotten possession of the Ile of Manaw, a
bishops see was erected in the old monasterie of Columbus, whereby
the iurisdiction of those Iles was still mainteined and continued.
Certes there remaine yet in this Iland the old burials apperteining
to the most noble families that had dwelled in the west Iles; but
thrée aboue other are accompted the most notable, which haue little
[Sidenote: Regum tumuli.]
houses builded vpon them. That in the middest hath a stone, whereon
is written, Tumuli regum Scotiae, The burials of the kings of
Scotland: for (as they saie) fourtie eight of them were there
interred. Another is intituled with these words, The burials of
the kings of Ireland, bicause foure of them lie in that place. The
third hath these words written thereon, The graues of the kings of
Norwaie, for there eight of them were buried also, and all through
a fond suspicion conceiued of the merits of Columbus. Howbeit in
processe of time, when Malcolme Cammor had erected his abbeie at
Donfermeling, he gaue occasion to manie of his successors to be
interred there.

About this Iland there lie six other Iles dispersed, small in
quantitie, but not altogither barren, sometimes giuen by the kings
of Scotland and lords of the Iles vnto the abbeie of saint Columbus,
of which the Soa, albeit that it yeeld competent pasturage for
shéepe, yet is it more commodious, by such egs as the great plentie
[Sidenote: The Ile of Shrewes.]
of wildfoule there bréeding doo laie within the same. Then is there
the Ile of Shrewes or of women; as the more sober heads doo call
it. Also Rudan, & next vnto that, the Rering. There is also the
Shen halfe a mile from Mula, whose bankes doo swarme with conies:
it hath also a parish church, but most of the inhabitants doo liue
and dwell in Mula. There is also the Eorse or the Arse, and all
these belong vnto saint Columbus abbeie. Two miles from Arse is
the Olue, an Iland fiue miles in length, and sufficientlie stored
with corne and grasse, & not without a good hauen for ships to lie
and harbor in. There is also the Colfans, an iland fruitfull inough,
and full of cornell trées. There is not far off also the Gomater,
[Sidenote: Mosse Ile.]
Stafa, the two Kerneburgs, and the Mosse Ile, in the old Brittish
speech called Monad, that is to saie Mosse. The soile of it is
verie blacke, bicause of the corruption & putrefaction of such
woods as haue rotted thereon: wherevpon also no small plentie of
mosse is bred and ingendered. The people in like maner make their
fire of the said earth, which is fullie so good as our English
turffe. There is also the Long, & six miles further toward the
west, Tirreie, which is eight miles in length and thrée in breadth,
& of all other one of the most plentifull for all kinds of commodities:
for it beareth corne, cattell, fish, and seafowle aboundantlie. It
hath also a well of fresh water, a castell, and a verie good hauen
for great vessels to lie at safegard in. Two miles from this also
is the Gun, and the Coll two miles also from the Gun. Then passed
we by the Calfe, a verie wooddie Iland, the foure gréene Iles, the
two glasse or skie Ilands, the Ardan, the Ile of woolfes, & then
the great Iland which reacheth from the east into the west, is
sixteene miles in length, and six in breadth, full of mounteins
and swelling woods: and for asmuch as it is not much inhabited,
the seafoules laie great plentie of egs there, whereof such as
will, may gather what number them listeth. Vpon the high cliffes
and rocks also the Soland géese are taken verie plentifullie.
Beyond this, about foure miles also is the Ile of horsses: and a
little from that the hog Hand, which is not altogither vnfruitfull.
There is a falcon which of custome bréedeth there, and therevnto
it is not without a conuenient hauen. Not farre off also is the
Canna, and the Egga, little Iles, but the later full of Soland
géese. Likewise the Sobratill, more apt to hunt in than méet for
anie other commoditie that is to be reaped thereby.

[Sidenote: Skie.]
After this we came to the Skie, the greatest Ile about all Scotland:
for it is two and fortie miles long; and somewhere eight, & in some
places twelue miles broad: it is moreouer verie hillie, which hilles
are therevnto loaden with great store of wood, as the woods are
with pasture, the fields with corne and cattell; and (besides all
other commodities) with no small heards of mares, whereby they
raise great aduantage and commoditie. It hath fiue riuers verie
much abounding with salmons, and other fresh streams not altogither
void of that prouision. It is inuironed also with manie baies,
wherein great plentie of herrings is taken in time of the yéere.
It hath also a noble poole of fresh water; fiue castels and sundrie
townes; as Aie, S. Iohns, Dunwegen, S. Nicholas, &c. The old Scots
called it Skianacha, that is, Winged, but now named Skie. There
lie certeine small Ilands about this also, as Rausa a batable soile
for corne & gras; Conie Iland full of woods and conies; Paba a
theeuish Iland, in whose woods théeues do lurke to rob such as
passe by them. Scalpe Ile, which is full of deere; Crowling, wherein
is verie good harbour for ships; Rarsa, full of béechen woods and
stags, being in length seuen miles, and two in breadth. The Ron,
a woodie Ile and full of heath: yet hath it a good hauen, which
hath a little Iland called Gerloch on the mouth thereof, and therein
lurke manie théeues. There is not farre off from this Ron, to wit
about six miles also, the Flad, the Tiulmen, Oransa, Buie the lesse,
and Buie the more and fiue other little trifling Iles, of whose
names I haue no notice.

After these we come vnto the Ise, a pretie fertile Iland, to the
Oue, to the Askoome, to the Lindill. And foure score miles from
the Skie towards the west, to the Ling, the Gigarmen, the Berner,
the Magle, the Pable, the Flad, the Scarpe, the Sander, the Vateras,
which later hath a noble hauen for great ships, beside sundrie
other commodities: and these nine last rehearsed are vnder the
[Sidenote: Bar.]
dominion of the bishop of the Iles. After this we come to the Bar,
an Iland seauen miles in length, not vnfruitfull for grasse and
corne, but the chiefe commoditie thereof lieth by taking of herrings,
which are there to be had abundantlie. In one baie of this Iland
there lieth an Islet, and therein standeth a strong castell. In
the north part hereof also is an hill which beareth good grasse
from the foot to the top, and out of that riseth a spring, which
running to the sea, doth carrie withall a kind of creature not yet
perfectlie formed, which some do liken vnto cockels; and vpon the
shore where the water falleth into the sea, they take vp a kind of
shelfish, when the water is gone, which they suppose to be ingendred
or increased after this manner. Betwéene the Barre and the Visse
lie also these Ilands, Orbaus, Oue, Hakerset, Warlang, Flad, the
two Baies, Haie, Helsaie, Gigaie, Lingaie, Fraie, Fudaie, and
Friskaie. The Visse is thirtie miles long and six miles broad; and
therein are sundrie fresh waters, but one especiallie of three
miles in length: neuerthelesse, the sea hath now of late found a
waie into it, so that it cannot be kept off with a banke of three
score foot, but now and then it will flowe into the same, and leaue
sea-fish behind it in the lake. There is also a fish bred therein
almost like vnto a salmon, sauing that it hath a white bellie, a
blacke backe, and is altogither without scales: it is likewise a
great harbour for théeues and pirats.

Eight miles beyond this lieth the Helscher, appertinent to the nuns
of Iona: then haue we the Hasker, verie plentifullie benefited by
scales, which are there taken in time of the yéere. Thrée score
miles from this also is the Hirth, whose inhabitants are rude in
all good science and religion; yet is the Iland verie fruitfull in
all things, and bringeth foorth shéepe farre greater than are
else-where to be found, for they are as big as our fallow deare,
horned like bugles, and haue their tailes hanging to the ground.
He that is owner of this Ile, sendeth ouer his bailiffe into the
same at midsummer, to gather in his duties, and with him a préest
[Sidenote: Baptisme without preests.]
to saie masse, and to baptise all the children borne since that
time of the yéere precedent: or if none will go ouer with him
(bicause the voiage is dangerous) then doth each father take paine
to baptise his owne at home. Their rents are paid commonlie in
dried seales and sea foule. All the whole Ile is not aboue a mile
euerie waie; and except thrée mounteines that lie vpon one part of
the shore, such as dwell in the other Iles can see no part thereof.

Being past the Visse, we came after to Walaie, the Soa, the Strome,
to Pabaie, to Barner, Ensaie, Killiger, the two Sagas, the Hermodraie,
Scarfe, Grie, Ling, Gilling, Heie, Hoie, Farlaie, great So, little
So, Ise, Sein the more, Sein the lesse, Tarant, Slegan, Tuom,
Scarpe, Hareie, and the seauen holie Ilands, which are desert and
[Sidenote: Wild sheepe.]
bréed nothing but a kind of wild shéepe, which are often hunted,
but seldome or neuer eaten. For in stéed of flesh they haue nothing
but tallow; and if anie flesh be, it is so vnsauorie, that few men
care to eate of it, except great hunger compell them. I suppose,
that these be the wild sheepe which will not be tamed; and bicause
[Sidenote: Tigers.]
of the horrible grenning thereof, is taken for the bastard tiger.
Their haire is betweene the wooll of a sheepe, and the haire of a
goat, resembling both, shacked, and yet absolutelie like vnto
neither of both: it maie be also the same beast which Capitolinus
calleth Ouis fera, shewed in the time of Gordian the emperour;
albeit that some take the same for the Camelopardalis: but hereof
I make no warrantise.

There is also not farre off the Garuell, the Lambe, the Flad, the
[Sidenote: Ile of Pigmeies.]
Kellas, the two Bernars, the Kirt, the two Buies, the Viraie, the
Pabaie, the two Sigrams, and the Ile of Pigmeies (which is so called
vpon some probable coniecture) for manie little sculs and bones
are dailie there found déepe in the ground, perfectlie resembling
the bodies of children; & not anie of greater quantities, wherby
their coniecture (in their opinion) is the more likelie to be true.
There is also the Fabill Ile, Adams Ile, the Ile of Lambes, Hulmes,
Viccoll, Haueraie, Car, Era, Columbes Ile, Tor Ile, Iffurd, Scalpe,
Flad, and the Swet; on whose east side is a certeine vault or caue,
arched ouer, a flight shoot in length, wherevnto meane ships do
vse to runne for harbour with full saile when a tempest ouertaketh
them, or the raging of the sea, in those parts do put them in danger
of wrecke. Also we passed by the old castell Ile, which is a pretie
and verie commodious plat for fish, foule, egges, corne, and pasture.
There is also the Ile Eust or Eu, which is full of wood, and a
notable harbour for théeues, as is also the Grinort; likewise the
preests Ile, which is verie full of sea foule and good pasture.
The Afull, the two Herbrerts, to wit, the greater and the lesse;
and the Iles of Horsses, and Mertaika: and these 8 lie ouer against
the baie which is called the Lake Brian. After this, we go toward
the north, and come to the Haraie, and the Lewis or the Leug, both
which make (in truth) but one Iland of thrée score miles in length,
and sixtéene in breadth, being distinguished by no water, but by
huge woods, bounds, and limits of the two owners that doo possesse
[Sidenote: Lewis called Thule by Tacitus, with no better authoritie
than the Angleseie Mona.]
those parts. The south part is called Haraie, and the whole situate
in the Deucalidon sea, ouer against the Rosse, & called Thule by
Tacitus, wherein are manie lakes, and verie pretie villages, as
lake Erwijn, lake Vnsalsago: but of townes, S. Clements, Stoie,
Nois, S. Columbane, Radmach, &c. In like sort, there are two
churches, whereof one is dedicated to saint Peter, an other to S.
Clement, beside a monasterie called Roadill. The soile also of this
Ile is indifferent fruitfull; but they reape more profit vnder the
ground than aboue, by digging. There is neither woolfe, fox, nor
serpent séene in this Iland; yet are there great woods therein,
which also separate one part from the other. Likewise there be
plentie of stags, but farre lesse in quantitie than ours: and in
the north part of the Iland also is a riuer which greatlie aboundeth
with salmons. That part also called Lewisa, which is the north half
of the Ile is well inhabited toward the sea coasts, and hath riuers
no lesse plentifull for salmon than the other halfe. There is also
great store of herrings taken, whereof the fisher men doo raise
great gaine and commoditie; and no lesse plentie of sheepe, which
they doo not sheere, but plucke euerie yeere; yet is the ground of
this part verie heathie, and full of mosse, and the face thereof
verie swart and blacke, for the space of a foot in depth, through
the corruption of such woods as in time past haue rotted on the
same. And therefore in time of the yeere they conuert it into turffe
to burne, as néede shall serue; and in the yéere after, hauing well
doonged it in the meane time; with slawke of the sea, they sowe
barleie in the selfe places where the turffes grew, and reape verie
[Sidenote: Tithe whales.]
good corne, wherewith they liue and féed. Such plentie of whales
also are taken in this coast, that the verie tithe hath béene
knowne, in some one yéere, to amount vnto seauen and twentie whales
of one greatnesse and other. This is notable also in this part of
the Ile, that there is a great caue two yards déepe of water when
the sea is gone, and not aboue foure when it is at the highest;
ouer which great numbers doo sit of both sexes and ages, with hooks
and lines, and catch at all times an infinite deale of fish,
wherewith they liue, and which maketh them also the more idle.

Being past this about sixtie miles, we come vnto the Rona, or Ron,
which some take for the last of the Hebrides, distant (as I said)
about fortie miles from the Orchades, and one hundreth and thirtie
from the promontorie of Dungisbe. The inhabitants of this Ile are
verie rude and irreligious, the lord also of the soile dooth limit
their number of housholds, & hauing assigned vnto them what numbers
of the greater and smaller sorts of cattell they shall spend and
inioie for their owne prouision, they send the ouerplus yéerlie
vnto him to Lewis. Their cheefe paiments consist of a great quantitie
of meale, which is verie plentifull among them, sowed vp in shéepes
skins. Also of mutton and sea foule dried, that resteth ouer and
aboue, which they themselues do spend. And if it happen that there
be more people in the Iland than the lords booke or rate dooth come
vnto, then they send also the ouerplus of them in like maner vnto
him: by which means they liue alwaies in plentie. They receiue no
vices from strange countries, neither know or heare of anie things
doone else-where than in their owne Iland. Manie whales are taken
also vpon their coasts, which are likewise replenished with seale,
and porpasse, and those which are either so tame, or so fierce,
that they abash not at the sight of such as looke vpon them, neither
make they anie hast to flie out of their presence.

[Sidenote: Suilscraie.]
Beyond this Ile, about 16 miles westward, there is another called
Suilscraie, of a mile length, void of grasse, and without so much
as heath growing vpon hir soile: yet are there manie cliffes and
rocks therein, which are couered with blacke mosse, whereon
innumerable sorts of foules do breed and laie their egs. Thither
in like sort manie doo saile from Lewissa, to take them yoong in
time of the yeare, before they be able to flie, which they also
kill and drie in eight daies space, and then returne home againe
with them, and great plentie of fethers gathered in this voiage.
[Sidenote: Colke foule.]
One thing is verie strange and to be noted in this Iland, of the
Colke foule, which is little lesse than a goose; and this kind
commeth thither but once in the yeare, to wit, in the spring, to
laie hir egs and bring vp hir yoong, till they be able to shift
for themselues, & then they get them awaie togither to the sea,
and come no more vntill that time of the yéere which next insueth.
At the same season also they cast their fethers there, as it were
answering tribute to nature for the vse of hir mossie soile: wherein
it is woonderfull to sée, that those fethers haue no stalkes,
neither anie thing that is hard in them, but are séene to couer
their bodies as it were wooll or downe, till breeding time (I saie)
wherein they be left starke naked.

[Sidenote: Orchades.]
The Orchades (whose first inhabitants were the Scithians, which
came from those Iles where the Gothes did inhabit, as some sparks
yet remaining among them of that language doo declare) lie partlie
in the Germaine, and partlie in the Calidon seas, ouer against the
point of Dunghisbie (being in number eight and twentie, or as other
saie thirtie & one, yet some saie thirtie thrée, as Orosius, but
Plinie saith fortie) and now belonging to the crowne of Scotland,
as are the rest whereof héeretofore I haue made report, since we
crossed ouer the mouth of the Solueie streame, to come into this
countrie. Certes the people of these Islands reteine much of their
old sparing diets, and therevnto they are of goodlie stature, tall,
verie comelie, healthfull, of long life, great strength, whitish
colour, as men that féed most vpon fish; sith the cold is so extreame
in those parts, that the ground bringeth foorth but small store of
wheate, and in maner verie little or no fuell at all, wherewith to
warme them in the winter, and yet it séemeth that (in times past)
some of these Ilands also haue béene well replenished with wood,
but now they are without either trée or shrub, in stéed whereof
they haue plentie of heath, which is suffered to grow among them,
rather thorough their negligence, than that the soile of it selfe
will not yéeld to bring forth trées & bushes. For what store of
such hath beene in times past, the roots yet found and digged out
of the ground doo yéeld sufficient triall. Otes they haue verie
plentifullie, but greater store of barleie, wherof they make a
nappie kind of drinke, and such indéed, as will verie readilie
cause a stranger to ouershoot himselfe. Howbeit this may be vnto
vs in lieu of a miracle, that although their drinke be neuer so
[Sidenote: If he speake all in truth.]
strong, & they themselues so vnmeasurable drinkers (as none are
more) yet it shall not easilie be séene (saith Hector) that there
is anie drunkard among them, either frantike, or mad man, dolt, or
naturall foole, meet to weare a cockescombe.

This vnmeasurable drinking of theirs is confessed also by Buchanan,
who noteth, that whensoeuer anie wine is brought vnto them from
other soiles, they take their parts thereof aboundantlie. He addeth
moreouer, how they haue an old bole (which they call S. Magnus
bole, who first preached Christ vnto them) of farre greater quantitie
than common boles are, and so great, that it may séeme to be reserued
since the Lapithane banket, onelie to quaffe and drinke in. And
when anie bishop commeth vnto them, they offer him this bole full
of drinke, which if he be able to drinke vp quite at one draught;
then they assure themselues of good lucke, and plentie after it.
Neuerthelesse this excesse is not often found in the common sort,
whom penurie maketh to be more frugall; but in their priests, and
such as are of the richer calling. They succour pirats also, and
verie often exchange their vittels with their commodities, rather
for feare and want of power to resist (their Ilands lieng so
scattered) than for anie necessitie of such gains as they doo get
by those men: for in truth, they thinke themselues to haue little
need of other furniture than their owne soiles doo yéeld and offer
vnto them. This is also to be read of the inhabitants of these
Ilands, that ignorance of excesse is vnto the most part of them in
stéed of physicke; and labour and trauell a medicine for such few
diseases as they are molested and incombred withall.

In like sort they want venemous beasts, cheefelie such as doo
delight in hotter soile, and all kinds of ouglie creatures. Their
ewes also are so full of increase, that some doo vsuallie bring
foorth two, three, or foure lambes at once, whereby they account
our anelings (which are such as bring foorth but one at once) rather
barren than to be kept for anie gaine. As for wild and tame foules,
they haue such plentie of them, that the people there account them
rather a burthen to their soile, than a benefit to their tables:
they haue also neat and gotes, whereby they abound in white meat,
as butter and cheese: wherein, next vnto fish, the chéefe part of
their sustenance dooth consist. There is also a bishop of the
Orchades, who hath his see in Pomona the chéefe of all the Ilands,
wherein also are two strong castels, and such hath béene the
superstition of the people here, that there is almost no one of
them, that hath not one church at the least dedicated to the mother
of Christ. Finallie, there is little vse of physicke in these
quarters, lesse store of éeles, and least of frogs. As for the
horsses that are bred amongst them, they are commonlie not much
greater than asses, and yet to labour and trauell, a man shall find
verie few else-where, able to come neere, much lesse to match with
them, in holding out their iournies. The seas about these Ilands
are verie tempestuous, not onelie through strong winds, and the
influences of the heauens and stars; but by the contrarie méetings
and workings of the west ocean, which rageth so vehementlie in the
streicts, that no vessell is able to passe in safetie amongst them.
Some of these Ilands also are so small and low, that all the
commoditie which is to be reaped by anie of them, is scarselie
sufficient to susteine one or two men: and some of them so barren
and full of rocks, that they are nothing else but mosse or bare
shingle. Wherefore onelie thirteene of them are inhabited and made
account of, the rest being left vnto their sheepe and cattell. Of
all these Ilands also Pomona is the greatest, and therfore called
the continent, which conteineth thirtie miles in length, and is
well replenished with people: for it hath twelue parish churches,
[Sidenote: Kirkwa.]
and one towne which the Danes (sometime lords of that Iland) called
Cracouia: but now it hight Kirkwa. There are also two pretie holds,
one belonging to the king, the other to the bishop: and also a
beautifull church, and much building betweene the two holds, and
about this church, which being taken as it were for two townes,
the one is called the kings and the other the bishops towne. All
the whole Iland is full of cliffes and promontories, whereby no
small number of baies and some hauens are producted.

There is also tin and lead to be found in six of these Iles, so
good and plentifullie as anie where else in Britaine. It lieth
foure & twentie miles from Cathnesse, being separated from the same
by the Pictish sea: wherein also lie certeine Ilands, as Stroma,
foure miles from Cathnesse, which albeit that it be but foure miles
from Cathnesse, is not reputed for anie of the Orchades. Going
therefore from hence northward, we come to the first Ile of the
Orchades, called south Rauals, which is sixtéene miles from
Dunghilsbie, aliàs Dunachisbie, & that in two houres space, such
is the swiftnesse of the sea in that tract. This Ile is fiue miles
long, and hath a faire port called saint Margarets hauen. Then
passe we by two desert Iles, which lie towards the east, wherein
nothing is found but cattell: some call them the holmes, bicause
they lie low, and are good for nothing but grasse. On the northside
lieth the Bur, and two other holmes betweene the same & Pomona.
From Bur, toward the west lie thrée Iles, Sun, Flat, and Far: and
beyond them Hoie and Vall, which some accompt for two, and other
but for one; bicause that in March and September, the flats that
lie betwéene them, doo séeme to ioine them togither, after the tide
is gone. This neuerthelesse is certeine, that in this single or
double Ile, which is ten miles in length, the highest hilles are
to be séene that are in all the Orchades. And as they lie eight
miles from Rauals, so are they two miles from Pomona, & from saint
Donats in Scotland full twentie miles, and on the north side of it
lieth the Brainse, in a narrow streict, as Buchanan dooth remember.
And these are the Iles which lie betweene Pomona and Cathnesse. As
for the west side of the continent, I find that it lieth open to
the sea, without either shelues, Ilands, or rocks appéering néere
vnto it: but on the east side thereof Cobesa dooth in maner
ouershadow it. Siapinsa also an Ile of six miles long, lieth within
two miles of Cracouia, toward the east, on the west side of Pomona
lieth the Rouse of six miles in length: and by east of that, the
Eglisa, wherin (as they saie) their patrone S. Magnus lieth interred.
From hense southward lie the Vera, Gersa, and not far off the Vester
(which is fourescore miles from Hethland) Papa & Stronza, which is
also eightie miles from Hethland as is the Vester. In the middest
also of this tract lieth Far, or Fara, which is to saie, faire Ile,
in old English, faire eie. and within sight so well of Hethland,
as the Orchades (by reason of three insuperable rocks which are
apparant in the same) a verie poore Iland, and yet yearelie robbed
of such commodities as it hath by such Flemish and English fishermen
as passe by the coasts thereof in time of the yeare, to catch fish
for the prouision of their countries.

Next vnto this is the greatest of all the Hethlands, an Iland called
the Maine, sixtie miles in length, and sixteene in bredth, full of
rocks, and whose coasts are onelie inhabited, the innermost parts
being left vnto the foules of the aire, bicause of the barrennesse
and vnfruitfulnesse of the soile: yet of late some haue indeuoured
to impeople it, but with no successe correspondent to their desire.
Wherefore they returned to their former trades, making their chéefe
commoditie and yearelie gaine by fish, as aforetime. Ten miles from
this toward the north, lieth the Zeale, twentie miles in length,
eight in bredth, and so wild that it will suffer no creature to
liue thereof, that is not bred therein. Betwéene this Iland also
and the Maine, are other smaller Ilands to be found, as the Ling,
Orne, Big, and Sanferre. And from hense nine miles northward Vsta,
twentie miles long, & six in bredth, plaine, pleasant, but inuironed
with a swift and terrible sea. Betwéene this also and the Zeale,
are the Vie, the Vre, and the Ling; also towards the west, the two
Skeues, Chalseie, Nordwade, Brase, and Mowse, on the west side lie
the west Skeies, Rottia, Papa the lesse, Wunned, Papa the more,
Valla, Londra, Burra, Haura the more, Haura the lesse, & in maner
so manie holmes dispersed heere and there, whereof I haue no notice.
Some call these the Shetland, and some the Shetland Iles. Buchanan
nameth them in the third member of his diuision Zelandine, and
toward the end of his first booke seemeth to auouch, that they liue
in maner as doo the inhabitants of the Orchades: although not in
so ciuill wise, nor in such large measure and aboundance of diet
in their houses. He addeth moreouer, that their apparrell is after
the Germaine cut, comelie, but not so chargeable and costlie, and
how they raise their gaine by skins of beasts, as marterns, sheepe,
oxen, and gotes skins, and therevnto a kind of cloth which they
weaue, and sell to the merchants of Norwaie, togither with their
butter, fish, either salted or dried, and their traine oile, and
exercise their trade of fishing also in their vncerteine skewes,
which they fetch out of Norwaie.

Their speech is Gothish, and such of them as by their dealing with
forren merchants doo gather anie wealth, that will they verie often
bestow vpon the furniture of their houses. Their weights & measures
are after the Germaine maner, their countrie is verie healthie,
and so wholesome, that a man was found which had married a wife at
one hundred yeares of age, and was able to go out a fishing with
his bote at one hundred and fortie, and of late yéeres died of
méere age, without anie other disease. Dronkennesse is not heard
of among them, and yet they meet and make good chéere verie often.
Neither doo I read of anie great vse of flesh or foule there,
although that some of their Ilands haue plentie of both. Nor anie
mention of corne growing in these parts, and therefore in steed of
bread they drie a kind of fish, which they beat in morters to
powder, & bake it in their ouens, vntill it be hard and drie. Their
fuell also is of such bones as the fish yéeldeth, that is taken on
their coasts: and yet they liue as themselues suppose in much
felicitie, thinking it a great péece of their happinesse to be so
farre distant from the wicked auarice, and cruell dealings of the
more rich and ciuill part of the world.

Herein also they are like vnto the Hirthiens, in that at one time
of the yeare, there commeth a priest vnto them out of the Orchades
(vnto which iurisdiction they doo belong) who baptiseth all such
children, as haue béene borne among them, since he last arriued,
and hauing afterward remained there for a two daies, he taketh his
tithes of them (which they prouide and paie with great scrupulositie
in fish, for of other commodities haue they none) and then returneth
home againe, not without boast of his troublesome voiage, except
[Sidenote: Amber.]
he watch his time. In these Iles also is great plentie of fine
Amber to be had (as Hector saith) which is producted by the working
of the sea vpon those coasts: but more of this elsewhere. This
neuertheles is certeine, that these Ilands, with the Orchades, were
neuer perfectlie vnited to the crowne of Scotland, till the mariage
was made betwéene king Iames and the ladie Marie daughter to
Christierne king of Denmarke 1468, which Christierne at the birth
of their sonne Iames (afterward king of Scotland and called Iames
the fourth) resigned all his right and title whatsoeuer either he
or his ancestors either presently or hertofore had, might haue had,
or herafter may or should haue, vnto the aforesaid péeres, as
appéereth by the charter.

From these Shetland Iles, and vntill we come southwards to the
Scarre, which lieth in Buquhamnesse, I find no mention of anie Ile
situat vpon that coast, neither greatlie from thence, vntill we
come at the Forth, that leadeth vp to Sterling, neither thought we
it safetie for vs to search so farre as Thule, whence the most
excellent brimstone commeth, & thereto what store of Ilands lie
vnder the more northerlie climats, whose secret situations though
partlie seene in my time, haue not yet bin perfectlie reueled or
discouered by anie, bicause of the great aboundance of huge Ilands
of ice that mooueth to and fro vpon their shores, and sundrie
perilous gulfes and indraughts of water, and for as much as their
knowlege doth not concerne our purpose, wherfore casting about, we
came at the last into the Firth or Forth, which some call the
Scotish sea, wherein we passe by seuen or eight such as they be,
of which the first called the Maie, the second Baas, and Garwie
the third, doo seeme to be inhabited. From these also holding on
our course toward England, we passe by another Ile, wherein Faux
castell standeth, and this (so far as my skill serueth) is the last
Iland of the Scotish side, in compassing whereof I am not able to
discerne, whether their flats and shallowes, number of Ilands
without name, confusion of situation, lacke of true description,
or mine owne ignorance hath troubled me most. No meruell therefore
that I haue béene so oft on ground among them. But most ioifull am
I that am come home againe: & although not by the Thames mouth into
my natiue citie (which taketh his name of Troie) yet into the
English dominion, where good interteinement is much more franke
and copious, and better harborough wherein to rest my wearie bones,
and refresh at ease our wetherbeaten carcasses.

[Sidenote: Lindesfarne or Holie Iland.]
The first Iland therefore which commeth to our sight, after we
passed Berwike, is that which was somtime called Lindesfarne, but
now Holie Iland, and conteineth eight miles; a place much honored
among our monasticall writers, bicause diuerse moonks and heremits
did spend their times therein. There was also the bishops see of
Lindesfarne for a long season, which afterward was translated to
Chester in the stréet, & finallie to Duresme, Dunelme, or Durham.
It was first erected by Oswald, wherein he placed Aidanus the
learned Scotish moonke, who came hither out of the Ile called Hij,
whereof Beda speaking in the third chapter of his third booke,
noteth, that although the said Hij belong to the kings of
Northumberland, by reason of situation & néerenesse to the coast;
yet the Picts appointed the bishops of the same, and gaue the Ile
with the see it selfe to such Scotish moonks as they liked, bicause
that by their preaching they first receiued the faith. But to
returne to Lindesfarne. After Aidan departed this life, Finanus
finished and builded the whole church with sawed timber of oke,
after the maner of his countrie, which when Theodorus the archbishop
of Canturburie had dedicated, Edbert the bishop did couer ouer with
lead.

[Sidenote: Farne.]
Next vnto this is the Ile of Farne, and herein is a place of defense
so far as I remember, and so great store of egs laid there by
diuerse kinds of wildfoule in time of the yeare, that a man shall
hardlie run for a wager on the plaine ground without the breach of
manie, before his race be finished. About Farne also lie certeine
Iles greater than Farne it selfe, but void of inhabitants; and in
these also is great store of puffins, graie as duckes, and without
[Sidenote: Puffins.]
coloured fethers, sauing that they haue a white ring round about
their necks. There is moreouer another bird, which the people call
[Sidenote: Saint Cuthberts foules.]
saint Cuthberts foules, a verie tame and gentle creature, and easie
to be taken. After this we came to the Cocket Iland; so called,
bicause it lieth ouer against the fall of Cocket water. Herein is
a veine of meane seacole, which the people dig out of the shore at
the low water; and in this Iland dwelled one Henrie sometime a
famous heremite, who (as his life declareth) came of the Danish
race. And from thence vntill we came vnto the coast of Norffolke
I saw no more Ilands.

Being therfore past S. Edmunds point, we found a litle Ile ouer
against the fall of the water that commeth from Holkham, & likewise
another ouer against the Claie, before we came at Waburne hope:
the third also in Yarmouth riuer ouer against Bradwell, a towne in
low or little England, whereof also I must néeds saie somewhat,
bicause it is in maner an Iland, and as I gesse either hath beene
or may be one: for the brodest place of the strict land that leadeth
to the same, is little aboue a quarter of a mile, which against
the raging waues of the sea can make but small resistance. Little
[Sidenote: Little England.]
England or low England therefore is about eight miles in length
and foure in bredth, verie will replenished with townes, as Fristan,
Burgh castell, Olton, Flixton, Lestoft, Gunton, Blundston, Corton,
Lownd, Ashebie, Hoxton, Belton, Bradwell, and Gorleston, and beside
this it is verie fruitfull and indued with all commodities.

Going forward from hence, by the Estonnesse (almost an Iland) I
saw a small parcell cut from the maine in Orford hauen, the
Langerstone in Orwell mouth, & two péeces or Islets at Cattiwade
bridge; and then casting about vnto the Colne, we beheld Merseie
[Sidenote: Merseie.]
which is a pretie Iland, well furnished with wood. It was sometime
a great receptacle for the Danes when they inuaded England; howbeit
at this present it hath beside two decaied blockehouses, two parish
churches, of which one is called east Merseie, the other west
Merseie, and both vndur the archdeacon of Colchester, as parcell
[Sidenote: Foulnesse.]
of his iurisdiction. Foulenesse is an Ile void of wood, and yet
well replenished with verie good grasse for neat and sheepe, whereof
the inhabitants haue great plentie: there is also a parish church,
and albeit that it stand somewhat distant from the shore, yet at
a dead low water a man may (as they saie) ride thereto if he be
skilfull of the causie; it is vnder the iurisdiction of London.
And at this present master William Tabor bacheler of diuinitie and
archdeacon of Essex hath it vnder his iurisdiction & regiment, by
the surrender of maister Iohn Walker doctor also of diuinitie, who
liued at such time as I first attempted to commit this booke to
the impression.

In Maldon water are in like sort thrée Ilands inuironed all with
[Sidenote: Osithe.]
[Sidenote: Northeie.]
salt streames, as saint Osithes, Northeie, and another (after a
[Sidenote: Ramseie.]
mersh) that beareth no name so far as I remember. On the right
hand also as we went toward the sea againe, we saw Ramseie Ile, or
[Sidenote: Reie.]
rather a Peninsula or Biland, & likewise the Reie, in which is a
chappell of saint Peter. And then coasting vpon the mouth of the
Bourne, we saw the Wallot Ile and his mates, whereof two lie by
east Wallot, and the fourth is Foulnesse, except I be deceiued,
for here my memorie faileth me on the one side, and information on
the other, I meane concerning the placing of Foulenesse. But to
procéed. After this, and being entered into the Thames mouth, I
find no Iland of anie name, except you accompt Rochford hundred
for one, whereof I haue no mind to intreat, more than of Crowland,
Mersland, Elie, and the rest, that are framed by the ouze. Andredeseie
in Trent, so called of a church there dedicated to saint Andrew,
and Auon (two noble riuers hereafter to be described) sith I touch
[Sidenote: Canwaie.]
onelie those that are inuironed with the sea or salt water round
about, as we may see in the Canwaie Iles, which some call marshes
onelie, and liken them to an ipocras bag, some to a vice, scrue,
or wide sléeue, bicause they are verie small at the east end, and
large at west. The salt rilles also that crosse the same doo so
separat the one of them from the other, that they resemble the
slope course of the cutting part of a scrue or gimlet, in verie
perfect maner, if a man doo imagine himselfe to looke downe from
the top of the mast vpon them. Betwéene these, moreouer and the
Leigh towne lieth another litle Ile or Holme, whose name is to me
vnknowne. Certes I would haue gone to land and viewed these parcels
as they laie, or at the least haue sailed round about them by the
whole hauen, which may easilie be doone at an high water: but for
as much as a perrie of wind (scarse comparable to the makerell
gale, whereof Iohn Anele of Calis one of the best seamen that
England euer bred for his skill in the narow seas was woont to
talke) caught hold of our sailes, & caried vs forth the right waie
toward London, I could not tarie to sée what things were hereabouts.
Thus much therefore of our Ilands, & so much may well suffice where
more cannot be had.




THE DESCRIPTION OF THE THAMES, AND SUCH RIUERS AS FALL INTO THE
SAME.

CAP. XI.


Hauing (as you haue séene) attempted to set downe a full discourse
of all the Ilands, that are situat vpon the coast of Britaine, and
finding the successe not correspondent to mine intent, it hath
caused me somewhat to restreine my purpose in this description also
of our riuers. For whereas I intended at the first to haue written
at large, of the number, situation, names, quantities, townes,
villages, castels, mounteines, fresh waters, plashes or lakes, salt
waters, and other commodities of the aforesaid Iles, mine expectation
of information from all parts of England, was so deceiued in the
end, that I was faine at last onelie to leane to that which I knew
my selfe either by reading, or such other helpe as I had alreadie
purchased and gotten of the same. And euen so it happeneth in this
my tractation of waters, of whose heads, courses, length, bredth,
depth of chanell (for burden) ebs, flowings, and falles, I had
thought to haue made a perfect description vnder the report also
of an imagined course taken by them all. But now for want of
instruction, which hath béene largelie promised, & slacklie
perfourmed, and other sudden and iniurious deniall of helpe
voluntarilie offered, without out occasion giuen on my part, I must
needs content my selfe with such obseruations as I haue either
obteined by mine owne experience, or gathered from time to time
out of other mens writings: whereby the full discourse of the whole
is vtterlie cut off, and in steed of the same a mangled rehearsall
of the residue set downe and left in memorie.

Wherefore I beséech your honour to pardon this imperfection and
rudenesse of my labour, which notwithstanding is not altogither in
vaine, sith my errors maie prooue a spurre vnto the better skilled,
either to correct or inlarge where occasion serueth, or at the
leastwise to take in hand a more absolute péece of worke, as better
direction shall incourage them thereto. The entrance and beginning
of euerie thing is the hardest; and he that beginneth well, hath
atchiued halfe his purpose. The ice (my lord) is broken, and from
hencefoorth it will be more easie for such as shall come after to
wade through with the rest, sith "Facile est inuentis addere;" and
to continue and finish, is not so great a matter in building, as
to attempt and laie the foundation or platforme of anie noble péece
[Sidenote: Thamesis.]
of workmanship, though it be but rudelie handled. But to my purpose.
As I began at the Thames in my description of Ilands, so will I
now doo the like with that of famous riuers; making mine entrie at
the said riuer it selfe, of whose founteine some men make as much
adoo, as in time past of the true head of Nilus, which, till of
late (if it be yet descried) was neuer found: or the Tanais, whose
originall was neuer knowne, nor shall be: for whilest one placeth
it here, another there; there are none at all that deale with it
exactlie. Wherefore leaning to such mens writings as haue of set
purpose sought out the spring of the Thames; I affirme that this
famous streame hath his head or beginning out of the side of an
hill, standing in the plaines of Cotswold, about one mile from
Tetburie, néere vnto the Fosse (an high waie so called of old)
where it was sometime named Isis, or the Ouse, although diuerse
doo ignorantlie call it the Thames euen there, rather of a foolish
custome than anie skill, bicause they either neglect or vtterlie
are ignorant how it was named at the first. From hence it runneth
directlie toward the east (as all good riuers should) and méeteth
[Sidenote: Corinium.]
with the Cirne or Churne, (a brooke called in Latine Corinium)
whereof Cirncester towne (by which it commeth) doth take the
denomination.

From hence it hasteth vnto Créekelade, aliàs Crekanford, Lechlade,
Radcotebridge, Newbridge, and Eouesham, receiuing by the waie an
infinit sort of small streames, brookes, beckes, waters, and rundels:
and here on this side of the towne diuideth it selfe into two
courses, of which the one goeth straight to Botleie and Hinkseie,
the other by Godstow, a village not farre off. This latter spreadeth
it selfe also for a while into sundrie smaller branches, which run
not farre yer they be reunited, and then beclipping sundrie pleasant
meadowes, it passeth at length by Oxford, of some supposed rather
[Sidenote: Charwell.]
to be called Ouseford of this riuer, where it meeteth with the
Charwell, and a litle from whence the originall branches doo ioine
and go togither by Abbandune (aliàs Sensham or Abington as we call
it) although no part of it at the first came so néere the towne as
[Sidenote: Some write, that the maine streame was brought thither
which ranne before between Andredeseie and Culenham.]
it doth now, till a branch thereof was led thither from the maine
streame, thorough the industrie of the moonks, as (beside the
testimonie of old records thereof yet extant to be séene) by the
decaie of Cair Dour, now Dorchester it selfe, sometime the throughfare
from Wales and the west countrie to London, which insued vpon this
fact, is easie to be seene. From hence it goeth to Dorchester, and
so to Thame, where ioining with a riuer of the same denomination,
it looseth the name of Isis or Ouse (whereof Ouseneie at Oxford is
producted) and from thenceforth is called Thamesis. From Thame it
goeth to Wallingford, and so to Reding, which in time past, of the
[Sidenote: Pontium.]
number of bridges there, was called Pontium; albeit that the English
[Sidenote: Saint Marie ouer Rhee.]
name doth rather proceed from Rhe, or Ree, the Saxon word for a
water-course or riuer; which maie be séene in Ouerée, or Sutherée,
for ouer the Ree, or south of the Rhee, as to the skilfull doth
readilie appéere; yet some hold (and not altogither against
probabilitie and likelihood) that the word Sutherée is so called
of Sudrijc, to wit, the south kingdome, wherevnto in part the Thames
is a bound. But that holdeth not in denomination, either of the
said church or name of the foresaid countie. Other affirme likewise,
that Reding is so called of the Greeke word [Greek: rheo] which is
to ouerflowe. Certes, as neither of these coniectures are to be
contemned, so the last commeth most neere to mine aid, who affirme,
that not onelie the course of euerie water it selfe, but also his
ouerflowing was in time past called Rhe, by such Saxons as inhabited
in this Iland: and euen to this daie in Essex I haue oft obserued,
that when the lower grounds by rage of water haue béene ouerflowen,
the people beholding the same, haue said; All is on a Rhe, as if
they should haue said; All is now a riuer, albeit the word Riuer
be deriued from the French, and borrowed by them from the Latins,
but not without corruption, as it was brought vnto them. I will
not here giue notice how farre they are deceiued, which call the
aforesaid church by the name of S. Marie Auderies, or S. Marie ouer
Isis, or Ise: but I will procéed with the course of this noble
streame, which, howsoeuer these matters stand after it hath passed
[Sidenote: Kenet.]
by Reding, & there receiued the Kenet, which commeth from the hilles
[Sidenote: Thetis.]
that lie west of Marleborough (& then the Thetis, commonlie called
the Tide that commeth from Thetisford) hieth to Sudlington otherwise
called Maidenhead, and so to Windleshore (or Windsore) Eaton, and
then to Chertseie, where Erkenwald bishop of London sometime builded
a religious house or cell, as I doo read.

From Chertseie it hasteth directlie vnto Stanes, and receiuing an
[Sidenote: Cole.]
other streame by the waie, called the Cole (wherevpon Colbrooke
[Sidenote: Brene.]
standeth) it goeth by Kingstone, Shene, Sion and Brentford or
Bregentford, where it méeteth the Brane or the Brene (another brooke
descending from Edgworth) whose name signifieth a frog, in the
Brittish speach. Vpon this also sir John Thin had sometime a statelie
house, with a maruellous prouision to inclose and reteine such fish
as should come about the same. From Brentfoord it passeth by
Mortlach, Putneie, Fulham, Batterseie, Chelseie, Lambeth, and so
to London. Finallie going from thence vnto the sea, it taketh the
Lée with it by the waie vpon the coast of Essex, and another that
[Sidenote: Darwent.]
commeth from Abreche not far off, and the Darnt vpon Kent side,
[Sidenote: Craie.]
which riseth néere to Tanrige and commeth by Shoreham, vnto Derntford,
wherevnto the Craie falleth. And last of all the Medwaie a notable
riuer (in mine opinion) which watereth all the south and southwest
part of Kent, and whose description shall insue.

Hauing in this maner bréefelie touched this noble riuer, and such
brookes as fall into the same; I will now adde a particular
description of each of these last by themselues, whereby their
courses also shall be seuerallie described to the satisfaction of
the studious. But yer I take the same in hand, I will insert a word
or two of the commodities of the said riuer, which I will performe
with so much breuitie as is possible. Héereby also finding out his
whole tract and course from the head to the fall thereof into the
sea. It appeareth euidentlie that the length thereof is at the
least, one hundreth and eightie miles, if it be measured by the
iourneies of the land. And as it is in course, the longest of the
thrée famous riuers of this Ile, so it is nothing inferiour vnto
them in aboundance of all kind of fish, whereof it is hard to saie,
which of the three haue either most plentie, or greatest varietie,
if the circumstances be duelie weighed. What some other write of
the riuers of their countries it skilleth not, neither will I (as
diuerse doo) inuent strange things of this noble streame, therewith
to nobilitate and make it more honorable: but this will I in plaine
termes affirme, that it neither swalloweth vp bastards of the
Celtish brood, or casteth vp the right begotten that are throwne
in without hurt into their mothers lap, as Politian fableth of the
Rhene, Epistolarum lib. 8. epi. 6. nor yéeldeth clots of gold as
the Tagus dooth: but an infinit plentie of excellent, swéet and
pleasant fish, wherewith such as inhabit néere vnto hir bankes are
fed and fullie nourished.

[Sidenote: Salmons.]
What should I speake of the fat and sweet salmons, dailie taken in
this streame, and that in such plentie (after the time of the smelt
be past) as no riuer in Europa is able to excéed it. What store
also of barbels, trouts, cheuins, pearches, smelts, breames, roches,
daces, gudgings, flounders, shrimps, &c: are commonlie to be had
therein, I refer me to them that know by experience better than I,
by reason of their dailie trade of fishing in the same. And albeit
it seemeth from time to time, to be as it were defrauded in sundrie
wise of these hir large commodities, by the insatiable auarice of
the fishermen, yet this famous riuer complaineth commonlie of no
want, but the more it looseth at one time, the more it yéeldeth at
[Sidenote: Carps a fish late brought into England and later into the
Thames.]
another. Onelie in carps it séemeth to be scant, sith it is not
long since that kind of fish was brought ouer into England, and
but of late to speake of into this streame, by the violent rage of
sundrie landflouds, that brake open the heads and dams of diuers
gentlemens ponds, by which means it became somewhat partaker also
of this said commoditie, whereof earst it had no portion that I
could euer heare. Oh that this riuer might be spared but euen one
yeare from nets, &c! But alas then should manie a poore man be
vndoone. In the meane time it is lamentable to see, how it is and
hath béene choked of late with sands and shelues, through the
penning and wresting of the course of the water for commodities
sake. But as this is an inconuenience easilie remedied, if good
order were taken for the redresse thereof: so now, the fine or
prise set vpon the ballasse sometime freelie giuen to the merchants
by patent, euen vnto the lands end (Iusques au poinct) will be
another cause of harme vnto this noble streame, and all through an
aduantage taken at the want of an (i) in the word ponct: which grew
through an error committed by an English notarie vnskilfull in the
French toong, wherein that patent was granted.

Furthermore, the said riuer floweth and filleth all his chanels
twise in the daie and night, that is in euerie twelue houres once;
and this ebbing & flowing, holdeth on for the space of seauentie
miles, within the maine land: the streame or tide being alwaies
highest at London, when the moone dooth exactlie touch the northeast
and south or west points of the heauens, of which one is visible,
the other vnder the earth, and not subiect to our sight. These
tides also differ in their times, each one comming latter than
other, by so manie minuts as passe yer the reuolution and naturall
course of the heauens doo reduce, and bring about the said planet
[Sidenote: The iust distance betwéene one tide and another.]
vnto those hir former places: whereby the common difference betwéene
one tide and another, is found to consist of twentie foure minuts,
which wanteth but twelue of an whole houre in foure and twentie,
as experience dooth confirme. In like sort we sée by dailie triall,
that each tide is not of equall heigth and greatnesse: for at the
full and change of the moone we haue the greatest flouds, and such
is their ordinarie course, that as they diminish from their changes
and fuls, vnto the first and last quarters; so afterwards they
increase againe, vntill they come to the full and change. Sometimes
also they rise so high (if the wind be at the north or northeast,
which bringeth in the water with more vehemencie, bicause the tide
which filleth the chanell, commeth from Scotland ward) that the
Thames ouerfloweth hir banks néere vnto London: which hapneth
especiallie in the fuls and changes of Januarie and Februarie,
wherein the lower grounds are of custome soonest drowned. This
order of flowing in like sort is perpetuall, so that when the moone
is vpon the southwest and north of points, then is the water by
London at the highest: neither doo the tides alter, except some
[Sidenote: The streame oft checked in hir entrance into the land.]
rough winds out of the west or southwest doo kéepe backe and checke
the streame in his entrance, as the east and northeast do hasten
the comming in thereof, or else some other extraordinarie occasion,
put by the ordinarie course of the northerne seas, which fill the
said riuer by their naturall returne and flowing. And that both
these doo happen eft among, I refer me to such as haue not sildome
obserued it, as also the sensible chopping in of thrée or foure
tides in one naturall daie, wherof the vnskilfull doo descant manie
things.

But how so euer these small matters doo fall out, and how often
soeuer this course of the streame doth happen to be disturbed; yet
at two seuerall times of the age of the moone, the waters returne
to their naturall course and limits of time exactlie. Polydore
saith, that this riuer is seldome increased or rather neuer
ouerfloweth hir banks by landflouds: but he is herein verie much
deceiued, as it shalbe more apparentlie séene hereafter. For the
more that this riuer is put by of hir right course, the more the
water must of necessitie swell with the white waters which run
downe from the land: bicause the passage cannot be so swift and
readie in the winding as in the streight course. These landflouds
also doo greatlie straine the finesse of the streame, in so much
that after a great landfloud, you shall take haddocks with your
hands beneath the bridge, as they flote aloft vpon the water, whose
eies are so blinded with the thicknesse of that element, that they
cannot see where to become, and make shift to saue themselues before
death take hold of them. Otherwise the water of it selfe is verie
cléere, and in comparison next vnto that of the sea, which is most
subtile and pure of all other; as that of great riuers is most
excellent, in comparison of smaller brookes: although Aristotle
will haue the salt water to be most grosse, bicause a ship will
beare a greater burden on the sea than on the fresh water; and an
eg sinke in this that swimmeth on the other. But he may easilie be
answered by the quantitie of roome and aboundance of waters in the
sea; whereby it becommeth of more force to susteine such vessels
as are committed to the same, and whervnto the greatest riuers (God
[Sidenote: London bridge.]
wot) are nothing comparable. I would here make mention of sundrie
bridges placed ouer this noble streame, of which that of London is
most chieflie to be commended, for it is in maner a continuall
street, well replenished with large and statelie houses on both
sides, and situat vpon twentie arches, whereof ech one is made of
excellent free squared stone, euerie of them being thréescore foot
in height, and full twentie in distance one from another, as I haue
often viewed.

[Sidenote: 2000 boates vpon the Thames and 3000 poore men mainteined
by the same whose gaines come in most plentifullie in the tearme
time.]
In like maner I could intreat of the infinit number of swans dailie
to be séene vpon this riuer, the two thousand wherries and small
boats, wherby three thousand poore watermen are mainteined, through
the cariage and recariage of such persons as passe or repasse, from
time to time vpon the same: beside those huge tideboats, tiltbotes,
and barges, which either carrie passengers, or bring necessarie
prouision from all quarters of Oxfordshire, Barkeshire, Buckinghamshire,
Bedfordshire, Herfordshire, Midlesex, Essex, Surrie, and Kent, vnto
the citie of London. But for somuch as these things are to be
repeated againe in the particular description of London, annexed
to his card; I surceasse at this time to speake anie more of them
here, as not lingering but hasting to performe my promise made euen
now, not yet forgotten, and in performance whereof I thinke it best
to resume the description of this noble riuer againe into my hands,
and in adding whatsoeuer is before omitted, to deliuer a full and
perfect demonstration of his course. How and where the said streame
ariseth, is alreadie & with sufficiencie set downe, noting the
place to be within a mile of Tetburie, whereof some doo vtterlie
mislike, bicause that rill in summer drouths is oft so drie, that
there is little or no water at all séene running aboue ground in
[Sidenote: Isis.]
the same. For this cause therefore manie affirme the verie head
of Isis to come from the poole aboue Kemble. Other confound it with
the head of the Cirne or Chirne, called in Latine Corinium that
riseth aboue Coberleie. For my part I follow Leland, as he dooth
the moonke of Malmesburie, which wrote the historie intituled
Eulogium historiarum, who searched the same of set purpose, and
pronounced with Leland, although at this present that course be
verie small, and choked vp (as I heare) with grauell and sand.
[Sidenote: Couus.]
Procéeding therefore from the head, it first of all receiueth the
Kemble water called the Coue, which riseth aboue Kemble towne,
goeth by Kemble it selfe vnto Poole and Somerford, and then
(accompanieth the Thames) vnto Canes, Ashton, Canes, and Howston,
holding on in one chanell vntill they méet with the Chirne, the
next of all to be described.

[Sidenote: Corinium.]
The Chirne is a faire water arising out of the ground aboue Coberleie,
from whence it runneth to Cowleie, Cowlesburne, Randcome, and so
[Sidenote: Rhe.]
into the Isis on the left side aboue Crekelade. These thrée waters
being thus vnited and brought into one chanell, within a little
space of the head of Isis, it runneth on by Crekelade, beneath
which towne it receiueth the Rhe, descending from Elcombe, Escot,
Redburne, Widhill, & at the fall into Isis, or not far off ioineth
with another that runneth west of Purton by Braden forrest, &c.
[Sidenote: Amneie.]
Next of all our Isis méeteth with the Amneie on the left hand,
which comming from aboue Holie roode Amneie, runneth by Downe
Amneie, and finallie into the Isis a little aboue Iseie. In like
sort I read of another that méeteth withall on the right hand aboue
Iseie also, which so far as I can call to remembrance, commeth from
about Drifield and falleth so into our Isis, that they run as one
vntill they come at the Colne, although not so nakedlie and without
helpe, but that in this voiage, the maine streame dooth crosse one
water that descendeth from Swindon, and going also by Stratton
toward Seuingham, is it selfe increased with two rils by the waie,
whereof one commeth from Liddenton by Wambreie, as I haue béene
informed.

[Sidenote: Colneius, Colineus, or Colunus.]
The Colne is a faire riuer rising by north neere to Witchington,
& from thence goeth to Shiptons, Compton Abdale, Wittenton,
Parneworth, Colne Deanes, and Colne Rogers, Winston, Biberie, Colne
Alens, Quenington, Faireford, and west of Lachelade into the riuer
Isis, which hereabout on the southside also taketh in another,
whereof I find this remembrance. The Isis being once past Seuingham,
crosseth a brooke from southest that mounteth about Ashbirie, and
receiuing a rill from bywest (that commeth from Hinton) beneath
Shrineham, it afterward so diuideth it selfe, that the armes therof
include Inglesham, and by reason that it falleth into the Isis at
two seuerall places, there is a plesant Iland producted, whereof
let this suffice.

[Sidenote: Lecusor Leche.]
Being past Lechelade a mile, it runneth to saint Johns bridge, &
thereabout méeteth with the Leche on the left hand. This brooke,
whereof Lechlade taketh the name (a towne wherevnto one péece of
an old vniuersitie is ascribed, which it did neuer possesse, more
than Crekelade did the other) riseth east of Hampnet, from whence
it goeth to north Lech, Estenton, Anlesworth, east Lech, south
Thorpe, Farendon, & so into the Isis. From hence this famous water
goeth by Kenskot toward Radcote bridge (taking in the rill that
riseth in an od péece of Barkeshire, and runneth by Langford) and
being past the said bridge (now notable through a conspiracie made
there sometimes by sundrie barons against the estate) it is not
long yer it crosse two other waters, both of them descending from
another od parcell of the said countie, whereof I haue this note
giuen me for my further information. There are two fals of water
into Isis beneath Radcote bridge, wherof the one commeth from
Shilton in Barkeshire by Arescote, blacke Burton and Clarrefield.
The other also riseth in the same péece, and runneth by Brisenorton
vnto Bampton, and there receiuing an armelet from the first that
breake off at blacke Burton, it is not long yer they fall into
Isis, and leaue a pretie Iland. After these confluences, the maine
[Sidenote: Winrush.]
course of the streame hasteth by Shifford to Newbridge, where it
ioineth with the Winrush. The Winrush riseth aboue Shieburne in
Glocestershire, from whence it goeth to Winrush, & comming by
Barrington, Burford, Widbrooke, Swinbecke castell, Witneie,
Duckington, Cockthorpe, Stanlake, it méeteth with the Isis west by
south of Northmore. From hence it goeth beneath Stanton, Hartingcourt
[Sidenote: Briwerus.]
and Ensham, betwéene which and Cassinton, it receiueth (as Leland
calleth it) the Bruerne water.

It riseth aboue Limington, and going to Norton in the Marsh, and
through a patch of Worcestershire vnto Euenlode, betweene it and
[Sidenote: Comus.]
the foure shirestones, it taketh in a rill called Come, comming by
the long and the little Comptons. After this also it goeth by
[Sidenote: Rolrich.]
Bradwell, Odington, and so to Bleddenton, aboue which towne it
taketh in the Rolrich water that issueth at two heads, in the hils
that lie by west of little Rolrich, and ioine aboue Kenkeham, and
Church hill. From thence also it goeth vnto Bruerne, Shipton
vnderwood, Ascot, Short hamton, Chorleburie, Corneburie parke,
[Sidenote: Enis.]
Stonfield, Longcombe, and southeast of Woodstocke parke, taketh in
the Enis, that riseth aboue Emstone, and goeth to Ciddington,
Glimton, Wotton (where it is increased with a rill that runneth
thither from stéeple Barton, by the Béechin trée) Woodstocke,
Blaidon, so that after this confluence, the said Enis runneth to
Cassinton, and so into the Isis, which goeth from hence to Oxford,
and there receiueth the Charwell, now presentlie to be described.

[Sidenote: Charwell.]
The head of Charwell is in Northamptonshire, where it riseth out
of a little poole, by Charleton village, seuen miles aboue Banberie
northeast, and there it issueth so fast at the verie surge, that
it groweth into a pretie streame, in maner out of hand. Soone after
[Sidenote: Bure.]
also it taketh in a rillet called the Bure, which falleth into it,
about Otmere side: but forasmuch as it riseth by Bincester, the
whole course therof is not aboue foure miles, and therefore cannot
be great. A friend of mine prosecuting the rest of this description
reporteth thereof as followeth. Before the Charwell commeth into
[Sidenote: Culen.]
Oxfordshire, it receiueth the Culen, which falleth into the same,
a little aboue Edgcote, and so descending toward Wardington, it
méeteth with another comming from by north west, betweene Wardington
[Sidenote: Come.]
and Cropreadie. At Banberie also it méeteth with the Come (which
falleth from fennie Conton by Farneboro, and afterwards going by
kings Sutton, not far from Aine, it receiueth the discharge of
[Sidenote: Ocus.]
diuerse rillets, in one bottome before it come at Clifton. The
said water therfore ingendred of so manie brookelets, consisteth
chiefelie of two, whereof the most southerlie called Oke, commeth
from Oke Norton, by Witchington or Wiggington, and the Berfords;
and carieng a few blind rils withall, dooth méet with the other
that falleth from by northwest into the same, within a mile of
Charwell.

That other (as I coniecture) is increased of thrée waters, wherof
[Sidenote: Tudo.]
each one hath his seuerall name. The first of them therefore hight
Tudo, which comming betwéene Epwell and the Lée by Toddington,
[Sidenote: Ornus.]
ioineth about Broughton with the second that runneth from Horneton,
named Ornus, as I gesse. The last falleth into the Tude or Tudelake,
beneath Broughton; and for that it riseth not far from Sotteswell
[Sidenote: Sotbrooke.]
in Warwikeshire, some are of the opinion, that it is to be called
Sotbrooke. The next water that méeteth without Charwell beneath
Clifton commeth from about Croughton, and after this is the Sowar
[Sidenote: Souanus.]
[Sidenote: Sowar.]
or Swere, that riseth north of Michaell Tew, and runneth by nether
[Sidenote: Burus.]
Wotton. The last of all is the Reie aliàs Bure, whose head is not
far aboue Burcester, aliàs Bincester, and Burncester: and from
whence it goeth by Burecester to Merton, Charleton, Fencote,
Addington, Noke, Islip, and so into Charwell, that holdeth on his
course after this augmentation of the waters, betwéene Wood and
Water Eton, to Marston, and the east bridge of Oxford by Magdalene
college, and so beneath the south bridge into our aforesaid Isis.

[Sidenote: Middest of England whereabouts.]
In describing this riuer, this one thing (right honorable) is come
vnto my mind, touching the center and nauill as it were of England.
Certes there is an hillie plot of ground in Helledon parish, not
from Danberie, where a man maie stand and behold the heads of thrée
notable riuers, whose waters, and those of such as fall into them,
doo abundantlie serue the greatest part of England on this side of
the Humber. The first of these waters is the Charwell, alreadie
described. The second is the Leme that goeth westward into the
fourth Auon. And the third is the head of the Nene or fift Auon it
selfe, of whose courses there is no card but doth make sufficient
mention; and therefore your honour maie behold in the same how they
doo coast the countrie, and also measure by compasses how this plot
lieth in respect of all the rest, contrarie to common iudgement,
which maketh Northampton to be the middest and center of our
countrie.

[Sidenote: Ocus.]
But to go forward with my description of the Ouse, which being past
Oxford goeth to Iflie, Kennington, Sanford, Rodleie, Newnham, and
so to Abington, som time called Sensham, without increase, where
it receiueth the Oche, otherwise called the Coche, a little beneath
S. Helens, which runneth thither of two brooklets, as I take it,
whereof one commeth from Compton, out of the vale and west of the
hill of the White horsse, the other from Kings Letcombe, and Wantage
[Sidenote: Arun.]
in Barkshire, and in one chanell, entreth into the same, vpon the
right side of his course. From Abington likewise (taking the Arun
withall southwest of Sutton Courtneie) it goeth by Appleford, long
Wittenham, Clifton, Wittenham the lesse, & beneath Dorchester,
taketh in the Thame water, from whence the Isis loseth the preheminence
of the whole denomination of this riuer, and is contented to impart
the same with the Thame, so that by the coniunction of these two
waters Thamesis is producted, and that name continued euen vnto
the sea.

[Sidenote: Thame.]
Thame riuer riseth in the easterlie parts of Chilterne hils, towards
Penleie parke, at a towne called Tring west of the said parke,
which is seauen miles from the stone bridge, that is betweene
Querendon and Ailsburie (after the course of the water) as Leland
hath set downe. Running therefore by long Merston, and Puttenham,
Hucket, and Bearton, it receiueth soone after a rill that commeth
by Querendon from Hardwike, and yer long an other on the other side
that riseth aboue Windouer in the Chilterne, and passing by Halton,
Weston, Turrill, Broughton, and Ailsburie, it falleth into the Tame
west of the said towne (except my memorie doo faile me.) From this
confluence the Tame goeth by Ethorpe, the Winchingtons, Coddington,
Chersleie, Notleie abbeie: and comming almost to Tame, it receiueth
one water from southeast aboue the said towne, and another also
from the same quarter beneath the towne; so that Tame standeth
inuironed vpon thrée sides with thrée seuerall waters, as maie be
easilie séene. The first of these commeth from the Chiltern east
of Below or Bledlow, from whence it goeth to Hinton, Horsenden,
Kingseie, Towseie, and so into the Tame. The other descendeth also
from the Chilterne, and going by Chinner, Crowell, Siddenham, and
Tame parke, it falleth in the end into Tame water, and then they
procéed togither as one by Shabbington, Ricot parke, Dracot,
Waterstoke, Milton, Cuddesdon, and Chiselton. Here also it taketh
in another water from by-east, whose head commeth from Chilterne
hils, not farre from Stocking church, in the waie from Oxford to
London. From whence it runneth to Weston (and méeting beneath Cuxham
with Watlington rill) it goeth on to Chalgraue, Stadham, and so
into the Tame. From hence our streame of Thame runneth to Newenton,
Draton, Dorchester (sometime a bishops see, and a noble citie) and
so into the Thames, which hasteth in like sort to Bensington,
[Sidenote: Blauius.]
Crowmarsh, or Wallingford, where it receiueth the Blaue, descending
from Blaueburg, now Blewberie, as I learne.

Thus haue I brought the Thames vnto Wallingford, situate in the
vale of White horsse, that runneth a long therby. From hence it
goeth by Newenham, north Stoke, south Stoke, Goring, Bassilden,
Pangburne, where it meeteth with a water that commeth from about
Hamsted Norris, runneth by Frizelham, Buckelburie, Stanford,
Bradfeld, Tidmarsh and Pangburne. After which confluence it goeth
on betweene Mapledorham and Purleie, to Cauersham, and Cauersham
manour, and a little beneath receiueth the Kenet that commeth
thereinto from Reading.

[Sidenote: Cenethus.]
The Kenet riseth aboue Ouerton 5 or 6 miles west of Marleborow, or
Marlingsborow, as some call it; & then going by Fifeld, Clatfor,
Maulon, & Preshute, vnto Marleburie: it holdeth on in like order
to Ramsburie, and northwest of little Cote, taketh in a water by
north descending from the hilles aboue Alburne chase west of Alburne
town. Thence it runneth to little Cote, Charnhamstréet, & beneth
[Sidenote: Bedwiine.]
[Sidenote: Chalkeburne.]
Charnhamstréet it crosseth the Bedwin, which (taking the Chalkburne
rill withall) commeth from great Bedwijne, & at Hungerford also
two other in one botom somewhat beneath the towne. From hence it
goeth to Auington, Kinburie, Hamsted marshall, Euburne, Newberie;
[Sidenote: Lamburne.]
and beneath this towne, taketh in the Lamburne water that commeth
by Isberie, Egerston, the Sheffords, Westford, Boxford, Donington
[Sidenote: Alburnus.]
castell, and Shaw. From Newberie it goeth to Thatcham, Wolhampton,
Aldermaston, a little aboue which village it receiueth the Alburne,
another brooke increased with sundrie rils: and thus going on to
Padworth, Oston, and Michaell, it commeth at last to Reading, where
(as I said) it ioineth with the Thames, and so they go forward as
one by Sonning to Shiplake, and there on the east side receiue the
Loddon that commeth downe thither from the south, as by his course
appéereth.

[Sidenote: Lodunus.]
The Loddon riseth in Hamshire betwéene west Shirburne and Wooton
toward the southwest, afterward directing his course toward the
northwest, thorough the Vine, it passeth at the last by Bramlie,
and thorough a peece of Wiltshire, to Stradfield, Swallowfield,
Arberfield, Loddon bridge, leauing a patch of Wiltshire on the
right hand (as I haue béene informed.) This Loddon not far from
Turges towne receiueth two waters in one bottome, whereof the
westerlie called Basing water, commeth from Basingstoke, and thorough
a parke vnto the aforesaid place.

The other descendeth of two heads from Mapledour well, and goeth
by Skewes, Newenham, Rotherwijc, and yer it come at Hartlie, ioineth
with the Basing water, from whence they go togither to Turges,
[Sidenote: Ditis vadum.]
where they méet with the Loddon (as I haue said alreadie.) The next
streame toward the south is called Ditford brooke. It riseth not
[Sidenote: Ikelus.]
farre from Vpton, goeth by Gruell, and beneath Wharnborow castell
receiueth the Ikell (comming from a parke of the same denomination)
from whence they go togither by Maddingleie vnto Swalowfield, and
so into the Loddon. In this voiage also the Loddon méeteth with
the Elwie or Elueie that commeth from Aldershare, not farre by west
[Sidenote: Elueius.]
[Sidenote: Ducus.]
of Euersleie: and about Eluesham likewise with another running from
[Sidenote: Erin.]
Dogmansfield named the Douke: and also the third not inferior to
the rest comming from Erin, whose head is in Surreie, and going by
Ash becommeth a limit, first betwéene Surreie and Hamshire; then
betwéene Hamshire and Barkeshire, and passing by Ash, Erinleie,
Blacke water, Perleie, and Finchamsted; it ioineth at last with
the Ditford, before it come at Swalowfield. To conclude therefore
with our Loddon, hauing receiued all these waters; and after the
last confluence with them now being come to Loddon bridge, it
passeth on by a part of Wiltshire to Twiford bridge, then to
Wargraue, and so into the Thames that now is maruellouslie increased
and growen vnto triple greatnesse (to that it was at Oxford.)

Being therefore past Shiplake and Wargraue, it runneth by Horsependon,
or Harding: then to Henleie vpon Thames, where sometime a great
rill voideth it selfe in the same. Then to Remenham, Greneland
(going all this waie from Shiplake iust north, and now turning
eastwards againe) by Medenham, Hurlie, Bisham, Marlow the greater,
Marlow the lesse, it meeteth with a brooke soone after that consisteth
of the water of two rilles, whereof the one called the Vse, riseth
[Sidenote: Vse.]
about west Wickham, out of one of the Chilterne hilles, and goeth
from thence to east Wickham or high Wickham, a pretie market towne.
The other named Higden, descendeth also from those mounteines but
[Sidenote: Higden.]
a mile beneath west Wickham, and ioining both in one at the last,
in the west end of east Wickham towne, they go togither to Wooburne,
Hedsor, & so into the Thames. Some call it the Tide; and that word
doo I vse in my former treatise: but to procéed. After this confluence
our Thames goeth on by Cowkham, Topleie, Maidenhead, aliàs Sudlington,
Braie, Dorneie, Clure, new Windsore (taking in neuerthelesse, at
Eaton by the waie, the Burne which riseth out of a Moore, & commeth
thither by Burnham) old Windsor, Wraiborow, and a little by east
therof doth crosse the Cole, whereof I find this short description
insuing.

[Sidenote: Colus, alias Vere and Vertume.]
The Cole riseth neere vnto Flamsted, from whence it goeth to Redburn,
S. Michaels, S. Albons, Aldenham, Watford, and so by More to
[Sidenote: Gadus.]
Richmansworth, where there is a confluence of three waters, of
which this Cole is the first. The second called Gadus riseth not
farre from Ashridge, an house or palace belonging to the prince:
from whence it runneth to great Gaddesdin, Hemsted, betwéene Kings
Langleie, and Abbots Langleie, then to Hunters, and Cashew bridges,
and so to Richmanswoorth, receiuing by the waie a rill comming from
Alburie by northwest, to Northchurch, Barkehamsted, and beneath
Hemsted ioining with the same. The last commeth in at northwest
from aboue Chesham, by Chesham it selfe, then by Chesham Bois,
Latimers, Mawdlens, Cheinies, Sarret and Richmanswoorth, and so
going on all in one chanell vnder the name of Cole, it runneth to
Vxbridge, where it taketh in the Missenden water, from northwest,
which rising aboue Missenden the greater goeth by Missenden the
lesse, Hagmondesham (now Hammersham) the Vach, Chalfhunt Giles,
Chalfhunt S. Peters, Denham, and then into the Cole aboue Vxbridge
(as I haue said.) Soone after this our Cole doth part it selfe into
two branches, neuer to ioine againe before they come at the Thames,
for the greater of them goeth thorough the goodlie medows straight
to Colebrooke, the other vnto two milles, a mile and a halfe east
of Colebrooke, in the waie to London, leauing an Iland betwéene
them of no small size and quantitie.

[Sidenote: Vindeles.]
Being past the Cole, we come to the fall of the Vindeles, which
riseth by northwest néere vnto Bagshot, from whence it goeth to
Windlesham, Chobham, and méeting with a brooklet comming westward
from Bisleie, they run togither toward Cherteseie, where when they
haue met with a small rill rising north of Sonning hill in Windlesoure
great parke, it falleth into the Thames on the northeast side of
Cherteseie. When we were come beyond this water, it was not long
yer we came vnto another on the same side, that fell into the Thames
betweene Shepperton on the one side, and Oteland on the other, and
is called the Waie. The Weie or the Waie rising by west, commeth
[Sidenote: Veius.]
from Olsted, & soone after taking the Hedleie brooke withall (which
riseth in Wulmere forrest, and goeth by Hedleie and Frensham)
[Sidenote: Thuresbie.]
hasteth by Bentleie, Farnham, Alton, Waiberleie, Elsted, and so to
Pepper harrow, where it ioineth with the Thuresbie water, which
commeth not farre off from a village of the same denomination. From
hence also it goeth to Godalming, and then toward Shawford, but
yer it come there, it crosseth Craulie becke, which rising somewhere
about the edge of Sussex short of Ridgewijc, goeth by Vacherie
[Sidenote: Crawleie.]
parke, Knoll, Craulie, Bramleie, Wonarsh, and so into the Waie.
[Sidenote: Abbinger.]
From hence then our riuer goeth to Shawford, and soone after (méeting
with the Abbinger water that commeth by Shere, Albirie, and the
chappell on the hill) it proceedeth to Guldeford, thence to Stoke,
Sutton in the parke, Send, Woking, and at Newarke parke side taketh
in a brooke that riseth of two heads, whereof one dooth spring
betwéene two hils north of Pepper harrow, and so runneth through
Henleie parke, the other aboue Purbright, and afterward ioining in
one, they go foorth vnto Newarke, and being there vnited, after
the confluence it goeth to Purford court, to Bifler, Waifred,
Oteland, and so into the Thames.

From Oteland the Thames goeth by Walton, Sunburie, west Moulseie,
[Sidenote: Molts.]
Hampton, and yer it come at Hampton court on the northside, and
east Moulseie on the other, it taketh in the Moule water, which
giueth name vnto the two townes that stand on each side of the
place, where it falleth into our streame. It riseth in Word forrest,
and going by Burstow, it méeteth afterward with another gullet,
conteining a small course from two seuerall heads, whereof one is
also in the forrest aforenamed, the other runneth from Febush wood,
and comming by Iseld, méeteth with the first aboue Horleie, and so
run on in one chanell, I saie, till they ioine with the Moule water,
whereof I spake before.

After this confluence in like sort, it is not long yer the Moule
take in another from by north, which commeth from about Mesham on
the one side, and another on the other side, running by Ocleie and
Capell, and whereinto also a branch or rill commeth from a wood on
the northwest part. Finallie, being thus increased with these manie
rilles, it goeth by east Becheworth, west Becheworth, and ouer
against the Swalow on the side of Drake hill, taking in another
that commeth thither from Wootton by Darking and Milton, it runneth
to Mickleham, Letherhed, Stoke, Cobham, Ashire parke, east Moulseie,
and so into the Thames, which after this coniunction goeth on to
Kingston, and there also méeteth with another becke, rising at
Ewell south of Nonsuch. Certes, this rill goeth from Ewell by the
old parke, then to Mauldon, & so to Kingston towne. The Thames in
like maner being past Kingston, goeth to Tuddington, Petersham,
Twickenham, Richmond, and Shene, where it receiueth a water on the
northwest side, which comming from about Harrow on the hill, and
by west of the same, goeth by Haies, Harlington, Felthan, and
Thistleworth into the Thames.

The next fall of water is at Sion, néere vnto new Brainford, so
[Sidenote: Brane.]
that it issueth into the Thames between them both. This water is
called Brane, that is in the Brittish toong (as Leland saith) a
frog. It riseth about Edgeworth, and commeth from thence by
Kingesburie, Twiford, Periuall, Hanwell, and Austerleie. Thence we
followed our riuer to old Brentford, Mortlach, Cheswijc, Barnelmes,
Fulham, and Putneie, beneath which townes it crossed a becke from
Wandlesworth, that riseth at Woodmans turne, and going by Easthalton,
méeteth another comming from Croidon by Bedington, and so going on
to Mitcham, Marton abbeie, and Wandlesworth, it is not long yer it
[Sidenote: Mariburne.]
fall into the Thames. Next vnto this is Mariburne rill on the other
side, which commeth in by S. Iames, so that by this time we haue
either brought the Thames, or the Thames conueied vs to London,
where we rested for a season to take view of the seuerall tides
there, of which each one differeth from other, by foure & twentie
minuts, that is fortie eight in a whole daie, as I haue noted
before, except the wether alter them. Being past London, and in
the waie toward the sea: the first water that it méeteth withall,
is the Brome on Kent side, west of Gréenewich, whose head is Bromis
[Sidenote: Bromis.]
in Bromleie parish, and going from thence to Lewsham, it taketh in
a water from by east, and so directeth his course foorth right vnto
the Thames.

The next water that it méeteth withall, is on Essex side, almost
[Sidenote: Lée.]
against Woolwich, and that is the Lée or Luie, whose head riseth
[Sidenote: Logus.]
short of Kempton in Hertfordshire, foure miles southeast of Luton,
sometime called Logodunum or Logrodunum, & going through a péece
of Brokehall parke (leauing Woodhall parke on the north, and Hatfield
on the south, with another parke adioining) it goeth toward Hartford
[Sidenote: Marran.]
towne. But yer it come there, it receiueth a water (peraduenture
the Marran) rising at northwest in Brodewater hundred, from aboue
Welwin, northeast of Digeswell, and going to Hartingfeld burie,
[Sidenote: Beane.]
where the said confluence is within one mile of the towne. Beneath
Hatfield also it receiueth the Beane (as I gesse) comming from
Boxwood by Benington, Aston, Watton, and Stapleford, and a little
lower, the third arme of increase from aboue Ware, which descendeth
from two heads: whereof the greatest commeth from Barkewaie in
Edwinster hundred, the other Sandon in Oddesey hundred, and after
they be met beneath little Hornemeade, they go togither by
Pulcherchurch, or Puckrich, Stonden, Thunderidge, Wadesmill, Benghoo,
and so into the Lée, which from hence runneth on till it come at
Ware, which was drowned by the rage of the same 1408, and so to
Amwell, where on the north side it receiueth the water that commeth
from little Hadham, through a péece of Singleshall parke, then by
great Hadham, and so from Widford to the aforesaid towne. From
hence also they go as one to old Stansted called Le Veil, branching
in such wise yer it come there, that it runneth through the towne
in sundrie places. Thence it goeth foorth to Abbats Stansted,
[Sidenote: Sturus.]
beneath which it méeteth with the Stoure, west (as I remember) of
Roidon. This Sture riseth at Wenden lootes, from whence it goeth
to Langleie, Clauering, Berden, Manhuden, & Birchanger (where it
taketh a rill comming from Elsingham, & Stansted Mountfitchet.)
Thence it hieth on to Bishops Stourford, Sabrichfoord, and beneath
this towne crosseth with another from the east side of Elsingham,
that goeth to Hatfield, Brodocke, Shiring, Harlo, & so into the
Stoure, and from whence they go togither to Eastwic, Parmedon, and
next into the Lée. These things being thus performed, the Lée
runneth on beneath Hoddesdon, Broxburne, and Wormleie, where a
water breaketh out by west of the maine streame, a mile lower than
Wormeleie it selfe, but yet within the paroch, and is called
Wormeleie locke.

It runneth also by Cheston nunrie, and out of this a little beneath
the said house, breaketh an arme called the Shirelake, bicause it
diuideth Eastsex and Hartford shire in sunder, and in the length
of one medow called Fritheie. This lake runneth not but at great
flouds, and méeteth againe with a succor of ditchwater, at a place
called Hockesditch, halfe a mile from his first breaking out, and
halfe a mile lower at Marsh point ioineth againe with the streame
from whence it came before. Thence commeth the first arme to S.
Maulie bridge (the first bridge westward vpon that riuer) vpon
Waltham causie, & halfe a mile lower than Maulie bridge, at the
corner of Ramnie mead, it méeteth with the kings streame & principall
course of Luy, or Lee, as it is commonlie called. The second arme
breaketh out of the kings streame at Halifield halfe a mile lower
than Cheston nunrie, and so to the fulling mill, and two bridges
by west of the kings streame, wherinto it falleth about a stones
cast lower at a place called Malkins shelffe, except I was wrong
informed. Cheston & Hertfordshire men doo saie, that the kings
streame at Waltham dooth part Hartfordshire and Essex, but the
Essex men by forrest charter doo plead their liberties to hold vnto
S. Maulies bridge. On the east side also of the kings streame
breaketh out but one principall arme at Halifield, three quarters
of a mile aboue Waltham, & so goeth to the corne mill in Waltham,
and then to the K. streame againe a little beneath the kings bridge.

From hence the Lée runneth on by south on Waltonstow till it come
to Stretford Langthorne, where it brancheth partlie of it selfe,
[Sidenote: Alfred.]
and partlie by mans industrie for mils. Howbeit heerein the dealing
of Alfred (sometimes king of England) was not of smallest force,
who vnderstanding the Danes to be gotten vp with their ships into
the countrie, there to kill and slaie his subiects, in the yeere
of grace 896, by the conduct of this riuer: he in the meane time
before they could returne, did so mightilie weaken the maine chanell,
by drawing great numbers of trenches from the same; that when they
purposed to come backe, there was nothing so much water left as
the ships did draw: wherefore being set on ground, they were soone
fired, & the aduersaries ouercome. By this policie also much medow
ground was woone, & made firme land, whereby the countrie about
was not a little inriched, as was also a part of Assyria by the
like practise of Cyrus with the Ganges, at such time as he came
against Babylon, which riuer before time was in maner equall with
Euphrates. For he was so offended, that one of his knights whom he
loued déerlie, was drowned and borne awaie with the water in his
passage ouer the same, that he sware a deepe oth yer long to make
it so shallow that it should not wet a woman to the knées. Which
came to passe, for he caused all his armie to dig 46 new draines
from the same, wherby the vow that he had made was at the full
performed. Senec. de Tra. li. 3. But to conclude with the Lee that
somtime ouerflowed all those medowes, through which it passeth (as
for a great waie not inferior to the Thames) and I find that being
past Westham, it is not long yer it fall into that streame. One
thing I read more of this riuer before the conquest, that is, how
Edward the first, & sonne of Alfred, in the yeare of grace 912,
builded Hartford towne: at which time also he had Wittham a towne
in Essex in hand, as his sister called Aelfled repaired Oxford &
London, and all this foure yeares before the building of Maldon;
of some called Hertford or Herudford betweene three waters, that
is, the Lée, the Benefuth, and Memmarran, or rather Penmarran:
but how these waters are distinguished in these daies, as yet I
cannot tell. It is possible, that the Bene may be the same which
commeth by Benington, and Benghoo: which if it be so, then must
the Memmarran be the same that descendeth from Whitwell, for not
farre from thence is Branfield, which might in time past right well
be called Marranfield, for of like inuersion of names I could shew
manie examples.

Being past the Lée (whose chanell is begun to be purged 1576, with
[Sidenote: Rodon or Rodunus.]
further hope to bring the same to the north side of London) we come
vnto the Rodon, vpon Essex side in like maner, and not verie farre
(for foure miles is the most) from the fall of the Lée. This water
riseth at little Canfield, from whence it goeth to great Canfield,
high Roding, Eithorpe Roding, Ledon Roding, White Roding, Beauchampe
Roding, Fifeld, Shelleie, high Ongar, and Cheping Ongar, where the
[Sidenote: Lauer.]
Lauer falleth into it, that ariseth betwixt Matching and high Lauer;
and taking another rill withall comming from aboue Northweld at
Cheping Ongar, they ioine (I saie) with the Rodon, after which
confluence Leland coniectureth that the streame is called Iuell:
for my part, I wot not what to say of it. But héerof I am sure,
[Sidenote: Iuelus.]
that the whole course being past Ongar, it goeth to Stansted riuers,
Theidon mount, Heibridge, Chigwell, Woodford bridge, Ilford bridge,
Barking, & so into the Thames.

[Sidenote: Darwent.]
The Darwent méeteth with our said Thames vpon Kents side, two miles
and more beneath Erith. It riseth at Tanridge, or there abouts, as
I haue beene informed by Christopher Saxtons card late made of the
same, and the like (I hope) he will doo in all the seuerall shires
of England at the infinit charges of sir Thomas Sackford knight,
& maister of the requests, whose zeale vnto his countrie héerin I
cannot but remember, & so much the rather, for that he meaneth to
imitate Ortelius, & somewhat beside this hath holpen me in the
names of the townes, by which these riuers for the Kentish part do
run. Would to God his plats were once finished for the rest! But
to procéed. The Darwent therefore, rising at Tanridge, goeth on by
Titseie toward Brasted, and receiuing on ech side of that towne (&
seuerall bankes) a riuer or rill, it goeth on to Nockhold, Shorham,
Kinsford, Horton, Darnhith, Dartford or Derwentford, & there taking
[Sidenote: Craie.]
in the Craie on the left hand that coms from Orpington by Marie
Craie, Paules Craie, North Craie, and Craiford, it is not long yer
it fall into the Thames. But after I had once passed the fall of
the brooke, it is a world to sée what plentie of Serephium groweth
vpon the Kentish shore, in whose description Fuichsius hath not a
little halted; whilest he giueth foorth the hearbe Argentaria for
Serephium, betwéene which there is no maner of likelihood. This
neuerthelesse is notable in the said hearbe, that being translated
into the garden, it receiueth another forme cleane different from
the first, which it yéelded when it grew vpon the shore, and
therevnto appeareth of more fat & foggie substance. Which maketh
me to thinke that our physicians do take it for a distinct kind of
wormewood, whereof controuersie ariseth among them. The next water
that falleth into the Thames, is west of the Wauie Iles, a rill of
no great fame, neither long course, for rising about Coringham, it
runneth not manie miles east and by south, yer it fall into the
mouth of this riuer, which I doo now describe.

I would haue spoken of one créeke that commeth in at Cliffe, and
another that runneth downe from Haltsto by S. Maries: but sith I
vnderstand not with what backewaters they be serued, I let them
passe as not skilfull of their courses. And thus much of the riuers
that fall into the Thames, wherein I haue doone what I maie, but
not what I would for mine owne satisfaction, till I came from the
head to Lechlade, vnto which, as in lieu of a farewell, I will
ascribe that distichon which Apollonius Rhodius writeth of the
Thermodon:

  Huic non est aliud flumen par, nec tot in agros
  Vllum dimittit riuos quot fundit vtrinque.

[Sidenote: Midwaie.]
Next vnto the Thames we haue the Midwaie water, whereof I find two
descriptions, the first beginneth thus. The Midwaie water is called
in Latine Medeuia (as some write) bicause the course therof is
midwaie in a manner betwéene London and Dorobernia, or (as we now
call it) Canturburie. In British it hight Dourbrée: and thereof
Rochester was sometime called Durobreuum. But in an old charter
which I haue seene (conteining a donation sometime made to the
monasterie of saint Andrews there by Ceadwalla) I find that the
Saxons called this riuer Wedring; and also a towne standing betweene
Malling and east Farleie, Wedrington; and finallie, a forrest also
of the same denomination, Wedrington, now Waterdon, wherby the
originall name appeareth to be fetched from this streame. It ariseth
in Waterdon forrest east of Whetlin or Wedring, and ioineth with
another brooke that descendeth from Ward forrest in Sussex: and
after this confluence they go on togither, as one by Ashhirst,
where hauing receiued also the second brooke, it hasteth to Pensherst,
and there carrieth withall the Eden, that commeth from Lingfield
[Sidenote: Prethus.]
parke. After this it goeth to the southeast part of Kent, and taketh
with it the Frith or Firth, on the northwest side, and an other
little streame that commeth from the hilles betwéene Peuenburie
[Sidenote: Theise.]
and Horsemon on the southeast. From thence also, and not farre
[Sidenote: Grane aliàs Cranus.]
from Yalling it receiueth the Theise (a pretie streame that ariseth
about Theise Hirst) & afterward the Gran or Crane, which hauing
his head not farre from Cranbrooke, and méeting with sundrie other
riuelets by the waie, whereof one branch of Theise is the last,
for it parteth at the Twist, and including a pretie Iland, doth
ioine with the said Midwaie, a little aboue Yalding, and then with
the Lowse. Finallie at Maidstone it méeteth with another brooke,
whose name I know not, and then passeth by Allington, Duton, Newhide,
Halling, Cuckestane, Rochester, Chattham, Gillingham, Vpchurch,
Kingsferrie, and falleth into the maine sea betwéene Shepeie and
the Grane.

And thus much out of the first authour, who commendeth it also,
for that in time past it did yéeld such plentie of sturgeon, as
beside the kings portion, and a due vnto the archbishop of Canturburie
out of the same, the deane and chapter of Rochester had no small
allowance also of that commoditie: likewise for the shrimps that
are taken therein, which are no lesse estéemed of in their kind,
than the westerne smelts or flounders taken in the Thames, &c.
The second authour describeth it after this manner, and more
copiouslie than the other.

The cheefe head of this streame riseth in Waterdon forrest, from
whence after it hath runne a pretie waie still within the same,
east of Whetlin, it méeteth with a brooke, whose head is in Ward
forrest, southwest of Greenested, which goeth to Hartfield, and so
to Whetlin, and yer long ioineth with the Midwaie. After this
confluence it is not long yer it take in another by west from Cowden
ward, and the third aboue Pensherst, growing from two heads, whereof
one is in Lingfield parke, the other west of Crawherst; and ioining
aboue Edinbridge, it doth fall into the midwaie beneath Heuer towne,
and Chiddingston. From Pensherst our maine streame hasteth to Ligh,
Tunbridge, and Twidleie, and beneath the towne, it crosseth a water
from North, whereof one head is at the Mote, another at Wroteham,
the third at west Peckham, & likewise another from southest, that
runneth east of Capell. Next after this it receiueth the These,
whose forked head is at Theise Hirst, which descending downe toward
the north, taketh in not farre from Scotnie a brooke out of the
northside of Waterden forrest, whose name I find not, except it be
the Dour. After this confluence our riuer goeth to Goldhirst, and
comming to the Twist, it brancheth in such wise, that one part of
it runneth into Midwaie, another into the Garan, or rather Cranebrooke
[Sidenote: Garunus, Cranus.]
(if my coniecture be anie thing.) The Garan (as Leland calleth it)
or the Crane (as I doo take it) riseth néere to Cranebrooke, and
going by Siffinghirst, it receiueth yer long one water that commeth
by Fretingdon, and another that runneth from great Chard by Smerdon,
and Hedcorne, crossing two rilles by the waie from by north, Hedcorne
it selfe standing betwéene them both. Finallie, the Garan or Crane
meeting with Midwaie south of Yalling, they on the one side, and
the These on the other, leaue a pretie Iland in the middest, of
foure miles in length, and two in breadth, wherein is some hillie
soile, but neither towne nor village, so farre as I remember.

From Yalling forward, the Midwaie goeth to west Farlegh, east
Farlegh: and yer it come at Maidstone, it interteineth a rill that
riseth short of Ienham, and goeth by Ledes and Otteringden, which
is verie beneficiall to clothiers in drie yéeres: for thither they
conueie their clothes to be thicked at the fulling milles, sometimes
ten miles for the same: there is also at Ledes great plentie of
fulling earth, which is a necessarie commoditie.

Being past Maidstone, it runneth by Allington, Snodland, Halling,
Cuckstane, and Rochester, where it passeth vnder a faire bridge of
stone, with a verie swift course, which bridge was begun 1388 by
the lord Iohn Cobham, the ladie Margaret his wife, and the valiant
sir Robert Knolles, who gaue the first onset vpon that péece of
worke, and therevnto builded a chappell of the Trinitie at the end
therof, in testimonie of his pietie. In processe of time also one
Iohn Warner of Rochester made the new coping thereof; and archbishop
Warham of Canturburie the iron barres: the bishops also of that
see were not slacke in their beneuolence and furtherances toward
that worke, especiallie Walter Merton founder of Merton college in
Oxford, who by misfortune perished by falling from the same, as he
rode to surueie the workemen. Being past Rochester, this noble
riuer goeth to Chatham, Gillingham, Vpchurch, and soone after
branching, it imbraceth the Greene at his fall, as his two heads
doo Ashdon forrest, that lieth betwéene them both.




OF SUCH STREAMES AS FALL INTO THE SEA, BETWEENE THE THAMES AND THE
MOUTH OF THE SAUERNE.

CHAP. XII.


[Sidenote: Stoure.]
After the Midwaie we haue the Stoure that riseth at Kingeswood,
[Sidenote: Nailburne water also (as I heare) neer to Cantwarbirie, but
I wote not whereabouts: sée _Marianus Scotus_.]
which is fourtéene or fifteene miles from Canturburie. This riuer
passeth by Ashford, Wie, Nackington, Canturburie, Fordish, Standish,
and Sturemouth, where it receiueth another riuer growing of three
branches. After our Stoure or Sture parteth it self in twaine, &
in such wise, that one arme therof goeth toward the north, and is
called (when it commeth at the sea) the north mouth of Stoure; the
other runneth southeastward vp to Richborow, and so to Sandwich,
from whence it goeth northeast againe and falleth into the sea.
The issue of this later tract is called the hauen of Sandwich. And
[Sidenote: Wantsome.]
peraduenture the streame that commeth downe thither, after the
diuision of the Stoure, maie be the same which Beda calleth Wantsome;
but as I cannot vndoo this knot at will, so this is certeine, that
the Stoure on the one side, and peraduenture the Wantsome on the
other, parteth and cutteth the Tenet from the maine land of Kent,
whereby it is left for an Iland.

There are other little brookes which fall into the Stoure, whereof
Leland speaketh, as Fishpoole becke that ariseth in Stonehirst
wood, and meeteth with it foure miles from Canturburie: another
beginneth at Chislet, and goeth into the Stoure gut, which sometime
inclosed Thanet, as Leland saith: the third issueth out of the
ground at Northburne (where Eadbert of Kent sometime past held his
palace) and runneth to Sandwich hauen, as the said authour reporteth:
and the fourth called Bridgewater that riseth by S. Marie Burne
church, and going by Bishops Burne, meeteth with Canturburie water
at Stourmouth: also Wiham that riseth aboue Wiham short of Adsam,
and falleth into Bridgewater at Dudmill, or Wenderton: and the
third namelesse, which riseth short of Wodensburgh (a towne wherein
Hengist & the Saxons honored their grand idoll Woden, or Othine)
and goeth by Staple to Wingam: but sith they are obscure I will
not touch them here. From hence passing by the Goodwine, a plot
verie perilous for sea-faring men (sometime firme land, that is,
vntill the tenth of the conquerours sonne, whose name was William
Rufus, and wherein a great part of the inheritance of erle Goodwine
in time past was knowne to lie) but escaping it with ease, we came
[Sidenote: Dour.]
at length to Douer. In all which voiage we found no streame, by
reason of the cliffes that inuiron the said coast. Howbeit vpon
the south side of Douer, there is a pretie fresh riuer, whose head
ariseth at Erwell, not passing foure miles from the sea, and of
some is called Dour, which in the British toong is a common name
for waters, as is also the old British word Auon for the greatest
riuers, into whose mouthes or falles shippes might find safe
entrance; and therefore such are in my time called hauens, a new
word growen by an aspiration added to the old: the Scots call it
Auen. But more of this else-where, sith I am now onelie to speake
of Dour, wherof it is likelie that the towne & castell of Douer
did sometime take the name. From hence we go toward the Camber
(omitting peraduenture here and there sundrie small creeks void of
[Sidenote: Rother.]
backwater by the waie) whereabouts the Rother a noble riuer falleth
into the sea. This Rother separateth Sussex from Kent, and hath
his head in Sussex, not farre from Argas hill néere to Waterden
forrest, and from thence directeth his course vnto Rotherfield.
After this it goeth to Ethlingham or Hitchingham, and so foorth by
Newendon vnto Mattham ferrie, where it diuideth it selfe in such
wise, that one branch thereof goeth to Appledoure (where is a
castell sometime builded by the Danes, in the time of Alfred, as
they did erect another at Middleton, and the third at Beamflete)
and at this towne, where it méeteth the Bilie that riseth about
[Sidenote: Bilie.]
Bilsington, the other by Iden, so that it includeth a fine parcell
of ground called Oxneie, which in time past was reputed as a parcell
of Sussex; but now vpon some occasion or other (to me vnknowne)
annexed vnto Kent. From hence also growing into some greatnesse,
it runneth to Rie, where it méeteth finallie with the Becke, which
commeth from Beckleie: so that the plot wherein Rie standeth, is
[Sidenote: Becke.]
in manner a by-land or peninsula, as experience doth confirme.
Leland and most men are of the likeliest opinion, that this riuer
[Sidenote: Limenus.]
should be called the Limen, which (as Peter of Cornhull saith) doth
issue out of Andredeswald, where the head thereof is knowne to be.
Certes, I am of the opinion, that it is called the Rother vnto
Appledoure, & from thence the Limen, bicause the Danes are noted
to enter into these parts by the Limen; and sailing on the same to
Appledoure, did there begin to fortifie, as I haue noted alreadie.
Howbeit, in our time it is knowne by none other name than the Rother
or Appledoure water, whereof let this suffice.

Being thus crossed ouer to the west side of Rie hauen, & in vewing
the issues that fall into the same, I meet first of all with a
water that groweth of two brookes, which come downe by one chanell
into the east side of the mouth of the said port. The first therfore
that falleth into it descendeth from Beckleie or thereabouts (as
I take it) the next runneth along by Pesemarsh, & soone after
ioining with all, they hold on as one, till they fall into the same
at the westerlie side of Rie: the third streame commeth from the
north, and as it mounteth vp not farre from Munfield, so it runneth
betweene Sescambe and Wacklinton néere vnto Bread, taking another
rill withall that riseth (as I heare) not verie far from Westfield.
There is likewise a fourth that groweth of two heads betweene
Ielingham and Pet, and going by Winchelseie it méeteth with all
about Rie hauen, so that Winchelseie standeth inuironed on thrée
parts with water, and the streames of these two that I haue last
rehearsed.

The water that falleth into the Ocean, a mile by southwest of
Hastings, or therabouts, is called Aestus or Asten: perhaps of
[Sidenote: Aestus.]
Hasten or Hasting the Dane, (who in time past was a plague to France
and England) & rising not far from Penhirst, it meeteth with the
[Sidenote: Buluerhithe.]
sea (as I heare) by east of Hollington. Buluerhith is but a creeke
(as I remember) serued with no backewater; and so I heare of Codding
or Old hauen, wherefore I meane not to touch them.

[Sidenote: Peuenseie.]
Into Peuenseie hauen diuerse waters doo resort, and of these, that
[Sidenote: Ash.]
which entereth into the same on the east side riseth out from two
[Sidenote: Burne.]
heads, whereof the most easterlie is called Ash, the next vnto the
Burne, and vniting themselues not farre from Ashburne, they continue
their course vnder the name and tide of Ashburne water, as I read.
The second that commeth thereinto issueth also of two heads, whereof
the one is so manie miles from Boreham, the other not far from the
Parke east of Hellingstowne, and both of them concurring southwest
of Hirstmowsen, they direct their course toward Peuenseie (beneath
which they meet with another rising at Foington) and thence go in
[Sidenote: Cucomarus.]
one chanell for a mile or more, till they fall togither into
Peuenseie hauen. The Cuckmer issueth out at seuerall places, and
hereof the more easterlie branch commeth from Warbleton ward, the
other from Bishops wood, and méeting beneath Halling, they run one
bottome by Micham, Arlington, Wellington, old Frithstan, and so
into the sea.

[Sidenote: Isis. Ni fallor.]
Vnto the water that commeth out at Newhauen, sundrie brookes and
riuerets doo resort, but the chiefe head riseth toward the west,
somewhat betwéene Etchinford and Shepleie, as I heare. The first
water therefore that falleth into the same on the east side, issueth
out of the ground about Vertwood, and running from thence by Langhton
and Ripe, on the west side; it falleth into the aforesaid riuer
beneath Forle and Glime, or thrée miles lower than Lewis, if the
other buttall like you not. The next herevnto hath his head in
Argas hill, the third descendeth from Ashedon forrest, and ioining
with the last mentioned, they crosse the maine riuer a little
beneath Isefield. The fourth water commeth from Ashedon forrest by
Horstéed Caines (or Ousestate Caines) and falleth into the same,
likewise east of Linfield. Certes I am deceiued if this riuer be
[Sidenote: Sturewell.]
not called Isis, after it is past Isefield. The fift riseth about
Storuelgate, and meeteth also with the maine streame aboue Linfield,
and these are knowen to lie vpon the right hand as we rowed vp the
riuer. On the other side are onelie two, whereof the first hath
his originall neere vnto Wenefield, and holding on his course toward
the east, it meeteth with his maister betweene Newicke and Isefield
[Sidenote: Plimus.]
(or Ifield) as some read it. The last of all commeth from Plimodune
or Plumpton, and hauing met in like sort with the maine riuer about
Barcham, it runneth foorth with it, & they rest in one chanell by
Barcham, Hamseie, Malling, Lewis, Piddingburne, and so foorth into
the maine.

[Sidenote: Soru.]
The next riuer that we came vnto west of Brighthemston is the Sore,
which notwithstanding I find to be called Brember water, in the
ancient map of Marton colledge in Oxford: but in such sort (as I
take it) as the Rother or Limen is called Appledoure streame,
bicause of the said towne that standeth thervpon. But to procéed,
it is a pleasant water, & thereto if you consider the situation of
his armes, and branches from the higher grounds, verie much resembling
a foure stringed whip. Whereabout the head of this riuer is, or
which of these branches may safelie be called Sora from the rising,
in good sooth I cannot say. For after we had passed nine or ten
mils thereon vp into the land, suddenlie the crosse waters stopped
vs, so that we were inforced to turne either east or west, for
directlie foorth right we had no waie to go. The first arme on the
right hand as we went, riseth out of a parke by south of Alborne,
and going on for a certeine space toward the northwest, it turneth
[Sidenote: Bimarus.]
southward betwéene Shermonburie and Twinham, and soone after méeteth
with the Bimar, not much south from Shermonburie, whence they run
togither almost two miles, till they fall into the Sore. That on
the west side descendeth from about Billingeshirst, & going toward
the east, it crosseth with the fourth (which riseth a litle by west
of Thacam) east from Pulborow, and so they run as one into the
Sore, that after this confluence hasteth it selfe southward by
Brember, Burleis, the Combes, and yer long into the Ocean.

[Sidenote: Arunus.]
The Arun (of which beside Arundell towne the castell and the vallie
wherin it runneth is called Vallis Aruntina, or Arundale in English)
is a goodlie water, and thereto increased with no small number of
excellent & pleasant brookes. It springeth vp of two heads, whereof
one descendeth from the north not far from Gretham, and going by
Lis, méeteth with the next streame (as I gesse) about Doursford
house. The second riseth by west from the hils that lie toward the
rising of the sunne from East maine, and runneth by Peterfield.
The third commeth from Beriton ward, and ioineth with the second
betwéene Peterfield and Doursford, after which confluence they go
togither in one chanell still toward the east (taking a rill with
them that commmeth betwéene Fernehirst and S. Lukes chappell,
southwest of Linchmere, and meeting with it east of Loddesworth
(as I doo read, and likewise sundrie other in one chanell beneath
Stopham) to Waltham, Burie, Houghton, Stoke, Arundell, Tortington
ford, Climping (all on the west side) and so into the sea.

Hauing thus described the west side of Arun, let vs doo the like
with the other in such sort as we best may. The first riuer that
we come vnto therfore on the east side, and also the second, rise
of sundrie places in S. Leonards forrest, & ioining a little aboue
Horsham, they méet with the third, which commeth from Ifield parke,
not verie farre from Slinfeld. The fourth hath two heads, whereof
one riseth in Witleie parke, the other by west, neere vnto Heselméere
chappell, and meeting by west of Doursfeld, they vnite themselues
with the chanell, growing by the confluence that I spake of beneath
Slinfeld, a little aboue Billingshirst. The last water commeth
from the hils aboue Linchemere, and runneth west and south, and
passing betwéene Billingshirst and Stopham it commeth vnto the
chanell last mentioned, and so into the Arun beneath Stopham,
without anie further increase, at the least that I doo heare of.

[Sidenote: Burne.]
Burne hath his issue in a parke néere Aldingburrie (or rather a
little aboue the same toward the north, as I haue since beene
[Sidenote: Elin.]
informed) and running by the bottomes toward the south, it falleth
betwéene north Berflete and Flesham. Erin riseth of sundrie heads,
by east of Erinleie, and directing his course toward the sunne
[Sidenote: Delus.]
rising, it peninsulateth Seleseie towne on the southwest and Pagham
at northwest. Deel springeth about Benderton, and thence running
betwéene middle Lauant and east Lauant, it goeth by west of west
Hampnet, by east of Chichester, or west of Rumbaldesdowne, and
afterward by Fishburne, where it meeteth with a rill comming north
west from Funtingdon (a little beneath the towne) & then running
thus in one streame toward the sea, it méeteth with another rillet
comming by north of Bosham, and so into Auant gulfe by east of
Thorneie Iland.

[Sidenote: Racunus.]
The Racon riseth by east of Racton or Racodunum (as Leland calleth
[Sidenote: Emill.]
it) and comming by Chidham, it falleth into the sea, northeast of
Thorneie aforesaid. The Emill commeth first betwéene Racton and
Stansted, then downe to Emilsworth or Emmesworth, & so vnto the
Ocean, separating Sussex from Hampshire almost from the very head.
Hauing in this maner passed along the coasts of Sussex, the next
water that I remember, riseth by east of the forrest of Estbirie,
from whence it goeth by Southwike, west Burhunt, Farham, and so
[Sidenote: Badunus forte.]
into the gulfe almost full south. Then come we to Bedenham creeke
(so called of a village standing thereby) the mouth whereof lieth
almost directlie against Porchester castell, which is situat about
three miles by water from Portesmouth towne, as Leland dooth report.
[Sidenote: Forten or Fordon.]
Then go we within halfe a mile further to Forten creeke, which
[Sidenote: Osterpoole.]
either giueth or taketh name of a village hard by. After this we
come to Osterpoole lake, a great créeke, that goeth vp by west into
the land, and lieth not far from a round turret of stone, from
whence also there goeth a chaine to another tower on the east side
directlie ouer against it, the like whereof is to be séene in
diuerse other hauens of the west countrie, wherby the entrance of
great vessels into that part may be at pleasure restreined.

From hence we go further to Tichefeld water, that riseth about
[Sidenote: Tichefield.]
Eastmaine parke, ten or twelue miles by northeast or there abouts
from Tichefeld. From Eastmaine it goeth (parting the forrests of
Waltham, and Eastberie by the way) to Wicham or Wicombe, a pretie
market towne & large throughfare, where also the water separateth
it selfe into two armelets, and going vnder two bridges of wood
commeth yer long againe vnto one chanell. From hence it goeth three
or foure miles further, to a bridge of timber by maister Writhoseleies
house (leauing Tichfeld towne on the right side) and a little
beneath runneth vnder Ware bridge, whither the sea floweth as hir
naturall course inforceth. Finallie, within a mile of this bridge
it goeth into the water of Hampton hauen, whervnto diuerse streames
resort, as you shall heare hereafter.

[Sidenote: Hamelrish.]
After this we come to Hamble hauen, or Hamelrish créeke, whose fall
is betwéene saint Andrewes castell, and Hoke. It riseth about
Shidford in Waltham forrest, & when it is past Croke bridge, it
méeteth with another brooke, which issueth not farre from Bishops
Waltham, out of sundrie springs in the high waie on Winchester,
from whence it passeth (as I said) by Bishops Waltham, then to
Budeleie or Botleie, and then ioining with the Hamble, they run
togither by Prowlingsworth, Vpton, Brusill, Hamble towne, and so
into the sea.

[Sidenote: Southhampton.]
Now come we to the hauen of Southhampton, by Ptolomie called Magnus
portus, which I will briefelie describe so néere as I can possiblie.
The bredth or entrie of the mouth hereof (as I take it) is by
estimation two miles from shore to shore. At the west point therof
also is a strong castell latelie builded, which is rightlie named
Caldshore, but now Cawshot, I wote not by what occasion. On the
east side thereof also is a place called Hoke (afore mentioned) or
Hamell hoke; wherein are not aboue thrée or foure fisher houses,
not worthie to be remembred. This hauen shooteth vp on the west
side by the space of seuen miles, vntill it come to Hampton towne,
standing on the other side, where it is by estimation a mile from
land to land. Thence it goeth vp further about thrée miles to
Redbridge, still ebbing and flowing thither, and one mile further,
so farre as my memorie dooth serue mée. Now it resteth that I
describe the Alresford streame, which some doo call the Arre or
Arle, and I will procéed withall in this order following.

[Sidenote: Alresford.]
The Alresford beginneth of diuerse faire springs, about a mile or
more from Alresford, or Alford as it is now called, and soone after
resorting to one bottome, they become a broad lake, which for the
most part is called Alford pond. Afterward returning againe to a
narrow chanell, it goeth through a stone bridge at the end of Alford
towne (leauing the towne it selfe on the left hand) toward
Hicthingstocke thrée miles off, but yer it commeth there, it
receiueth two rils in one bottome, whereof one commeth from the
Forrest in maner at hand, and by northwest of old Alresford, the
other from Browne Candiuer, that goeth by Northenton, Swarewotton,
Aberstone, &c: vntill we méet with the said water beneath Alford
towne. Being past Hichinstocke, it commeth by Auington to Eston
village, and to Woorthie, where it beginneth to branch, and ech
arme to part it selfe into other that resort to Hide and the lower
soiles by east of Winchester, there seruing the stréets, the close
of S. Maries, Wolueseie, and the new college verie plentifullie
with their water. But in this meane while, the great streame commeth
from Worthie to the east bridge, and so to saint Elizabeth college,
where it dooth also part in twaine, enuironing the said house in
most delectable maner. After this it goeth toward S. Crosses,
leauing it a quarter of a mile on the right hand: then to Twiford
(a mile lower) where it gathereth againe into one bottome, and
[Sidenote: Otter.]
goeth six miles further to Woodmill, taking the Otter brooke withall
on the east side, and so into the salt créeke that leadeth downe
to the hauen.

On the other side of Southhampton, there resorteth into this hauen
[Sidenote: Stocke.]
also both the Test & the Stockbridge water in one bottome, whereof
I find this large description insuing. The verie head of the
Stockewater, is supposed to be somewhere about Basing stoke, or
church Hockleie, and going from thence betwéene Ouerton and Steuenton,
it commeth at last by Lauerstocke & Whitchurch, and soone after
[Sidenote: Bourne.]
receiuing a brooke by northwest, called the Bourne (descending from
S. Marie Bourne, southeast from Horsseburne) it procéedeth by Long
paroch and the wood, till it meet with the Cranburne, on the east
side (a pretie riuelet rising about Michelneie, and going by
Fullington, Barton, and to Cramburne) thence to Horwell in one
bottome, beneath which it meeteth with the Andeuer water, that is
increased yer it come there by an other brooke, whose name I doo
not know. This Andeuer streame riseth in Culhamshire forrest, not
far by north from Andeuer towne, and going to vpper Clatford, yer
it touch there it receiueth the rill of which I spake before, which
rising also néere vnto Anport, goeth to Monketon, to Abbatesham,
the Andeuer, and both (as I said) vnto the Test beneath Horwell,
whereof I spake euen now. These streames being thus brought into
one bottome, it runneth toward the south vnder Stockbridge, and
soone after diuiding it selfe in twaine, one branch thereof goeth
by Houghton, & a little beneath meeteth with a rill, that commeth
from bywest of S. Ans hil, and goeth by east of vpper Wallop, west
[Sidenote: Valopius.]
of nether Wallop, by Bucholt forrest, Broughton, and called (as I
haue béene informed) the Gallop, but now it is named Wallop. The
other arme runneth through the parke, by north west of kings
[Sidenote: Test.]
Somburne, and vniting themselues againe, they go forth by Motteshunt,
and then receiue the Test, a pretie water rising in Clarendun parke,
that goeth by west Deane, and east Deane, so to Motteshunt, and
finallie to the aforesaid water, which from thencefoorth is called
the Test, euen vnto the sea. But to procéed. After this confluence,
it taketh the gate to Kimbebridge, then to Rumseie, Longbridge,
and beneath the same receiueth a concourse of two rilles whereof
the one commeth from Sherefield, the other from the new Forrest,
and ioining in Wadeleie parke, they beat vpon the Test, not verie
farre from Murseling. From thence the Test goeth vnder a pretie
bridge, before it come at Redbridge, from whence it is not long
yer it fall into the hauen.

The next riuer that runneth into this port, springeth in the new
[Sidenote: Eling.]
Forrest, and commeth thereinto about Eling, not passing one mile
by west of the fall of Test. From hence casting about againe into
the maine sea, and leauing Calde shore castell on the right hand,
we directed our course toward the southwest, vnto Beaulieu hauen,
[Sidenote: Mineie.]
whereinto the Mineie descendeth. The Mineie riseth not far from
Mineiestéed, a village in the north part of the new Forrest; and
going by Beaulieu, it falleth into the sea southwest (as I take
it) of Exburie, a village standing vpon the shore.

[Sidenote: Limen.]
Being past the Mineie, we crossed the Limen as it is now called,
whose head is in the verie hart of the new Forrest (sometime
conuerted into a place of nourishment for déere by William Rufus,
buieng his pleasure with the ruine of manie towns and villages, as
diuerse haue inclosed or inlarged their parks by the spoile of
better occupiengs) & running southwest of Lindhirst & the parke,
it goeth by east of Brokenhirst, west of Bulder, & finallie into
the sea south and by east of Lemington. I take this not to be the
proper name of the water, but of the hauen, for Limen in Gréeke is
an hauen: so that Limendune is nothing else, but a downe or higher
plot of ground lieng on the hauen: neuerthelesse, sith this
denomination of the riuer hath now hir frée passage, I think it
not conuenient to séeke out any other name that should be giuen
[Sidenote: Bure.]
[Sidenote: Milis.]
vnto it. The next fall that we passed by is namelesse, except it
be called Bure, & as it descendeth from new Forrest, so the next
vnto it hight Mile, as I haue heard in English. Certes the head
thereof is also in the southwest part of the said Forrest, & the
fall not far from Milford bridge, beyond the which I find a narrow
going or strictland leading from the point to Hirst castell which
standeth into the sea, as if it hoong by a thred, from the maine
of the Iland, readie to be washed awaie by the continuall working
and dailie beating of the waues.

[Sidenote: Auon.]
The next riuer that we came vnto of anie name is the Auon, which
(as Leland saith) riseth by northeast, and not far from Woolfehall
in Wiltshire, supposed to be the same which Ptolomie called Halenus.
The first notable bridge that it runneth vnto, is at Vphauen, thence
foure miles further it goeth to little Ambresburie, and there is
another bridge, from thence to Woodford village, standing at the
right hand banke, and Newton village on the left. The bishops of
Sarum had a proper manor place at Woodford, which bishop Sharton
pulled downe altogither, bicause it was somewhat in ruine. Thence
it goeth to Fisherton bridge, to Cranebridge, old Salisburie, new
Salisburie, and finallie to Harnham, which is a statelie bridge of
stone, of six arches at the least. There is at the west end of the
said bridge, a little Iland, that lieth betwixt this and another
bridge, of foure pretie arches, and vnder this later runneth a good
round streame, which (as I take it) is a branch of Auon, that
breaketh out a little aboue, & soone after it reuniteth it selfe
againe: or else that Wilton water hath there his entrie into the
Auon, which I cannot yet determine. From Harneham bridge it goeth
to Dounton, that is about foure miles, and so much in like sort
from thence to Fordingbridge, to Ringwood bridge fiue miles, to
Christes church Twinham fiue miles, and streight into the sea; and
hitherto Leland of this streame, which for the worthinesse thereof
(in mine opinion) is not sufficientlie described. Wherefore I thinke
good to deliuer a second receiued of another, which in more particular
maner dooth exhibit his course vnto vs.

Certes this Auon is a goodlie riuer, rising (as I said before néere)
vnto Wolfe hall; although he that will séeke more scrupulouslie
for the head in déed, must looke for the same about the borders of
the forrest of Sauernake (that is Soure oke) which lieth as if it
were imbraced betwéene the first armes thereof, as I haue beene
informed. These heads also doo make a confluence by east of
Martinshall hill, and west of Wootton. From whence it goeth to
Milton, Powseie, Manningfield abbeie, Manningfield crosse, and
beneath Newington taketh in one rill west from Rudborow, and another
a little lower that riseth also west of Alcanninges, and runneth
into the same by Patneie, Merden, Wilford, Charleton, and Rustisall.
Being therefore past Newington, it goeth to Vphauen (whereof Leland
speaketh) to Chesilburie, Compton, Ablington, little Almsburie,
Darntford, Woodford, old Salisburie, and so to new Salisburie,
where it receiueth one notable riuer from by northwest, & another
from north east, which two I will first describe, leauing the Auon
[Sidenote: Wilugh.]
at Salisburie for a while. The first of these is called the Wilugh,
whereof the whole shire dooth take hir name, and not of the great
plentie of willowes growing therein, as some fantasticall heads
doo imagine: whereof also there is more plentie in that countrie
than is to be found in other places. It riseth among the Deuerels,
and running thence by hill Deuerell, & Deuerell long bridge, it
goeth toward Bishops straw, taking in one rill by west & another
from Vpton by Werminster at northwest. From Bishops straw it goeth
to Norton, Vpton, Badhampton, Steplinford, and Stapleford, where
it meeteth with the Winterburie water from by north, descending
from Maddenton by Winterburne. From Stapleford it hasteth to
Wishford, Newton, Chilhampton, Wilton: and thither commeth a water
vnto it from southwest, which riseth of two heads aboue Ouerdonet.
After this it goeth by Wordcastell, to Tisburie, and there receiueth
a water on ech side, whereof one commeth from Funthill, the other
from two issues (of which one riseth at Austie, the other at
Swalodise) and so keeping on still with his course, our Wilugh
runneth next of all by Sutton. Thence it goeth to Fouant, Boberstocke,
[Sidenote: Nader becke.]
Southburcombe, Wilton (where it taketh in the Fomington or Nader
water) Westharnam, Salisburie, and Eastharnam: and this is the race
of Wilugh.

The other is a naked arme or streame without anie branches. It
riseth aboue Colingburne Kingston in the hils, and thence it goeth
to Colingburne, the Tidworths (whereof the more southerlie is in
Wiltshire) Shipton, Cholterton, Newton, Toneie, Idmerson, Porton,
the Winterburns, Lauerstocke, and so into Auon east of Salisburie.
And thus is the confluence made of the aforesaid waters, with this
[Sidenote: Becquith brooke.]
our second Auon, whereinto another water falleth (called Becquithes
brooke) a mile beneath Harneham bridge, whose head is fiue miles
from Sarum, and thrée miles aboue Becquithes bridge, as Leland doth
[Sidenote: Chalkeburne.]
remember, who noteth the Chalkeburne water to haue his due recourse
also at this place into the aforesaid riuer. Certes it is a pretie
brooke, and riseth six miles from Shaftesburie, and in the waie
toward Salisburie in a bottome on the right hand, whence it commeth
by Knighton and Fennistratford, to Honington, that is about twelue
miles from the head, and about two miles and an halfe from Honington
beneath Odstocke, goeth into the Auon, a mile lower than Harnham
bridge, except he forget himselfe. This Harnham, whereof I now
intreat, was sometime a pretie village before the erection of new
Salisburie, and had a church of S. Martine belonging vnto it, but
now in stéed of this church, there is onelie a barne standing in
a verie low mead on the northside of S. Michaels hospitall. The
cause of the relinquishing of it was the moistnesse of the soile,
verie oft ouerflowne. And whereas the kings high waie laie sometime
through Wilton, licence was obteined of the king and Richard bishop
of Salisburie, to remooue that passage vnto new Salisburie in like
maner, and vpon this occasion was the maine bridge made ouer Auon
[Sidenote: Thrée towns decaied by changing one waie.]
at Harneham. By this exchange of the waie also old Salisburie fell
into vtter decaie, & Wilton which was before the head towne of the
shire, and furnished with twelue parish churches, grew to be but
a poore village, and of small reputation. Howbeit, this was not
the onelie cause of the ruine of old Salisburie, sith I read of
two other, whereof the first was a salue vnto the latter, as I take
it. For whereas it was giuen out, that the townesmen wanted water
in old Salisburie, it is flat otherwise; sith that hill is verie
plentifullie serued with springs and wels of verie sweet water.
The truth of the matter therefore is this.

[Sidenote: An holie conflict.]
In the time of ciuill warres, the souldiors of the castell and
chanons of old Sarum fell at ods, insomuch that after often bralles,
they fell at last to sad blowes. It happened therefore in a rogation
weeke that the cleargie going in solemne procession, a controuersie
fell betwéene them about certeine walkes and limits, which the one
side claimed and the other denied. Such also was the hot intertainment
on ech part, that at the last the Castellanes espieng their time,
gate betwéene the cleargie and the towne, and so coiled them as
they returned homeward, that they feared anie more to gang about
their bounds for the yeare. Héerevpon the people missing their
bellie cheare (for they were woont to haue banketing at euerie
station, a thing commonlie practised by the religious in old time,
wherewith to linke in the commons vnto them, whom anie man may lead
whither he will by the bellie, or as Latimer said, with beefe,
bread and beere) they conceiued foorthwith a deadlie hatred against
the Castellans. But not being able to cope with them by force of
armes, they consulted with Richard Pore their bishop, and he with
them so effectuallie, that it was not long yer they, I meane the
chanons, began a new church vpon a péece of their owne ground called
[Sidenote: New Salisburie begun.]
Mirifield, pretending to serue God there in better safetie, and
with far more quietnesse than they could doo before. This church
was begun 1219, the nine and twentith of Aprill, and finished with
the expenses of 42000 marks, in the yeare 1260, and fiue & twentith
of March, whereby it appeereth that it was aboue fortie yéers in
hand, although the clearks were translated to the new towne 1220,
or the third yeere after the fraie. The people also séeing the
diligence of the chanons, and reputing their harmes for their owne
inconuenience, were as earnest on the other side to be néere vnto
these prelats, and therefore euerie man brought his house vnto that
place, & thus became old Sarum in few yeeres vtterlie desolate,
and new Salisburie raised vp in stéed thereof, to the great decaie
also of Harnham and Wilton, whereof I spake of late. Neuerthelesse
it should séeme to me that this new citie is not altogither void
of some great hinderances now and then by water: for in the second
of Edward the second (who held a parlement there) there was a sudden
thaw after a great frost, which caused the waters so fast to arise,
that euen at high masse time the water came into the minster, and
not onelie ouerflowed the nether part of the same, but came vp all
to the kings pauase where he sate, whereby he became wetshod, and
in the end inforced to leaue the church, as the executour did his
masse, least they should all haue béene drowned: and this rage
indured there for the space of two daies, wherevpon no seruice
could be said in the said minster.

Now to returne againe from whence I thus digressed. Our Auon
therefore departing from Salisburie, goeth by Burtford, Longford,
and taking in the waters afore mentioned by the waie, it goeth by
Stanleie, Denketon, Craiford, Burgate, Fording bridge, Ringwood,
Auon, Christes church; and finallie into the sea. But yer it come
[Sidenote: Sturus.]
all there & a litle beneth Christes church, it crosseth the Stoure
or Sture, a verie faire streame, whose course is such as may not
be left vntouched. It riseth of six heads, whereof three lie on
the north side of the parke at Sturton within the pale, the other
rise without the parke; & of this riuer the towne and baronie of
Sturton dooth take his name as I gesse, for except my memorie do
too much faile me, the lord Sturton giueth the six heads of the
said water in his armes. But to procéed. After these branches are
conioined in one bottome, it goeth to long Laime mill, Stilton,
Milton, and beneath Gillingham receiueth a water that descendeth
from Mere. Thence the Sture goeth to Bugleie, Stoure, Westouer
bridge, Stoure prouost, and yer long it taketh in the Cale water,
[Sidenote: Cale.]
from Pen that commeth downe by Wickhampton to Moreland, & so to
Stapleford, seuen miles from Wickhampton, passing in the said
[Sidenote: Lidden.]
voiage, by Wine Caunton, and the fine bridges. After this confluence,
it runneth to Hinton Maries, and soone after crosseth the Lidden
[Sidenote: Deuilis.]
and Deuilis waters all in one chanell, whereof the first riseth in
Blackemore vale, and goeth to the bishops Caundell: the second in
[Sidenote: Iber.]
the hils south of Pulham, and so runneth to Lidlinch; the third
water issueth néere Ibberton, and going by Fifehed to Lidlington,
[Sidenote: Blackewater.]
and there méeting with the Lidden, they receiue the Blackewater
aboue Bagburne, and so go into the Stoure.

After this the Stoure runneth on to Stoureton minster, Fitleford,
Hammond, and soone after taking in one water that commeth from
Hargraue by west Orchard, and a second from Funtmill, it goeth on
to Chele, Ankeford, Handford, Durweston, Knighton, Brainston,
Blandford, Charleton: and crossing yer long a rill that riseth
about Tarrent, and goeth to Launston, Munketon, Caunston, Tarrant;
it proceedeth foorth by Shepwijc, and by and by receiuing another
brooke on the right hand, that riseth about Strictland, and goeth
by Quarleston, Whitchurch, Anderston, and Winterburne, it hasteth
forward to Stoureminster, Berford lake, Alen bridge, Winburne,
aliàs Twinburne minster, whither commeth a water called Alen (from
Knolton, Wikehampton, Estambridge, Hinton, Barnsleie) which hath
two heads, whereof one riseth short of Woodcotes, and east of
Farneham, named Terig, the other at Munketon aboue S. Giles Winburne,
and going thence to S. Giles Ashleie, it taketh in the Horton becke,
as the Horton dooth the Cranburne. Finallie, meeting with the Terig
aboue Knolton, they run on vnder the name of Alen to the Stoure,
[Sidenote: This Stoure aboundeth with pike, perch, roch, dace, gudgeon
and éeles.]
which goeth to the Canfords, Preston, Kingston, Perleie, and Yolnest:
but yer it come at Yolnest it taketh in two brookes in one bottome,
whereof one commeth from Woodland parke by Holt parke, and Holt,
another from aboue vpper Winburne, by Edmondesham, Vertwood, and
Mannington, and ioining about S. Leonards, they go to Hornebridge,
and so into Stoure. After which confluence, the said Stoure runneth
by Iuor bridge, and so into Auon, leauing Christs church aboue the
méeting of the said waters (as I haue said before.)

Hauing in this maner passed Christes church head we come to the
[Sidenote: Burne.]
fall of the Burne, which is a little brooke running from Stourefield
heath, without branches; from whence we proceeded: & the next fall
that we come vnto is Poole, from whose mouth vpon the shore, by
[Sidenote: Poole.]
southwest in a baie of thrée miles off, is a poore fisher towne
called Sandwich, where we saw a péere and a little fresh brooke.
The verie vtter part of saint Adelmes point, is fiue miles from
Sandwich. In another baie lieth west Lilleworth, where (as I heare)
is some profitable harborough for ships. The towne of Poole is from
Winburne about foure miles, and it standeth almost as an Ile in
the hauen. The hauen it selfe also, if a man should measure it by
the circuit, wanteth little of twentie miles, as I did gesse by
the view.

Going therefore into the same, betwéene the north and the south
points, to sée what waters were there, we left Brunkeseie Iland,
and the castell on the left hand within the said points; and passing
about by Pole, and leauing that créeke, bicause it hath no fresh,
we came by Holton and Kesworth, where we beheld two falles, of
which one was called the north, the other the south waters. The
[Sidenote: Piddle.]
north streame hight Piddle as I heare. It riseth about Alton, and
goeth from thence to Piddle trench head, Piddle hinton, Walterstow,
[Sidenote: Deuils.]
and yer it come at Birstam, receiueth Deuils brooke that commeth
thither from Brugham and Melcombe by Deuilish towne. Thence it
goeth to Tow piddle, Ashe piddle, Turners piddle (taking in yer it
come there, a water that runneth from Helton by Middleton, Milburne
& Biere) then to Hide, and so into Pole hauen, and of this water
[Sidenote: Frome.]
Marianus Scotus speaketh, except I be deceiued. The south water is
properlie called Frome for Frame. It riseth néere vnto Euershot,
and going downe by Fromequitaine, Chelmington, and Catstocke, it
receiueth there a rill from beside Rowsham, and Wraxehall. After
[Sidenote: Ocus.]
this it goeth on to Chilfrome, and thence to Maden Newton, where
it méeteth with the Owke, that riseth either two miles aboue Hoke
parke at Kenford, or in the great pond within Hoke parke, and going
by the Tollards, falleth into the Frome about Maden Newton, & so
go as one from thence to Fromevauchirch, Crokewaie, Frampton, and
Muckilford, and receiueth néere vnto the same a rill from aboue
Vpsidling by S. Nicholas Sidling, and Grimston. From hence it goeth
on by Stratton and Bradford Peuerell, and beneath this Bradford,
[Sidenote: Silleie.]
[Sidenote: Minterne.]
[Sidenote: Cherne.]
it crosseth the Silleie aliàs Minterne and Cherne brooks both in
one chanell: whereof the first riseth in vpper Cherne parish, the
other at Minterne, and méeting aboue middle Cherne, they go by
nether Cherne, Forston, Godmanston, and aboue Charneminster into
Frome. In the meane time also our Frome brancheth and leaueth an
Iland aboue Charneminster, and ioining againe néere Dorchester, it
goeth by Dorchester, and Forthington; but yer it come at Beckington,
it méeteth with another Becke that runneth thereinto from Winterburne,
Stapleton, Martinstow, Heringstow, Caine and Stafford, and from
thence goeth without anie further increase as yet to Beckington,
[Sidenote: Luckford.]
Knighton, Tinkleton, Morton, Wooll, Bindon, Stoke, & beneath Stoke
receiueth the issue of the Luckford lake, from whence also it
[Sidenote: Séeke more for Wilie brooke that goeth by West burie to
Pole hauen.]
passeth by Eastholme, Warham, and so into the Baie. From this fall
we went about the arme point by Slepe, where we saw a little creeke,
then by Owre, where we beheld an other, & then comming againe toward
the entrance by saint Helens, and Furleie castell, we went abroad
into the maine, and found ourselues at libertie.

When we were past Pole hauen, we left the Handfast point, the
Peuerell point, S. Adelmes chappell, and came at last to Lughport
hauen, whereby and also the Luckeford lake, all this portion of
ground last remembred, is left in maner of a byland or peninsula,
and called the Ile of Burbecke, wherein is good store of alum and
hard stone. In like sort going still westerlie, we came to Sutton
points, where is a créeke. Then vnto Waie or Wilemouth, by kings
Welcombe, which is twentie miles from Pole, and whose head is not
full foure miles aboue the hauen by northwest at Vphill in the side
of a great hill. Hereinto when we were entred, we saw three falles,
whereof the first and greatest commeth from Vpweie by Bradweie,
and Radipoole, receiuing afterward the second that ran from east
Chekerell, and likewise the third that maketh the ground betwéene
Weimouth and Smalmouth passage almost an Iland. There is a little
barre of sand at the hauen mouth, and a great arme of the sea
runneth vp by the right hand; and scant a mile aboue the hauen
mouth on the shore, is a right goodlie and warlike castell made,
which hath one open barbicane. This arme runneth vp also further
by a mile as in a baie, to a point of land where a passage is into
Portland, by a little course of pibble sand. It goeth vp also from
the said passage vnto Abbatsbirie about seauen miles off, where a
litle fresh rondell resorteth to the sea. And somewhat aboue this,
[Sidenote: Chesill.]
is the head or point of the Chesill lieng northwest, which stretcheth
vp from thence about seauen miles, as a maine narrow banke, by a
right line vnto the southeast, and there abutteth vpon Portland
scant a quarter of a mile aboue the Newcastle there. The nature of
this banke is such, that so often as the wind bloweth vehementlie
at southeast, so often the sea beateth in, and losing the banke
soketh through it: so that if this wind should blow from that corner
anie long time togither, Portland should be left an Iland as it
hath béene before. But as the southwest wind dooth appaire this
banke, so a northwest dooth barre it vp againe. It is pretie to
note of the Townelet of Waimouth, which lieth streight against
Milton on the other side, and of this place where the water of the
hauen is but of small breadth, that a rope is commonlie tied from
one side of the shore to another, whereby the ferrie men doo guide
their botes without anie helpe of Ores. But to procéed with our
purpose. Into the mouth of this riuer doo ships often come for
succour.

Going by Portland and the point thereof called the Rase, we sailed
along by the Shingle, till we came by saint Katharins chappell,
where we saw the fall of a water that came downe from Blackdéene
Beaconward, by Portsham and Abbatsburie. Thence we went to another
that fell into the sea, neere Birton, and descended from Litton by
[Sidenote: Bride.]
Chilcombe, then vnto the Bride or Brute port, a pretie hauen, and
[Sidenote: Nature hath set the mouth of this riuer in maner betwixt
two hils, so that a little cost would make an hauen there.]
the riuer it selfe serued with sundrie waters. It riseth, halfe a
mile or more aboue Bemister, and so goeth from Bemister to Netherburie
by Parneham, then to Melplash, and so to Briteport, where it taketh
in two waters from by east in one chanell, of which one riseth east
of Nettlecourt, and goeth by Porestoke and Milton, the other at
Askerwell, and runneth by Longlether. From hence also our Bride
[Sidenote: Simen.]
going toward the sea, taketh the Simen on the west that commeth by
Simensburge into the same, the whole streame soone after falling
into the sea, and leauing a pretie hauenet.

[Sidenote: Chare.]
The next port is the Chare, serued with two rils in one confluence,
beneath Charemouth. The cheefe head of this riuer is (as Leland
saith) in Marshwood parke, and commeth downe by Whitechurch: the
other runneth by west of Wootton, and méeting beneath Charemouth
towne (as I said) dooth fall into the sea. Then came we to the
[Sidenote: Buddle.]
Cobbe, and beheld the Lime water, which the townesmen call the
Buddle, which commeth about thrée miles by north of Lime, from the
hils, fleting vpon Rockie soile, and so falleth into the sea.
Certes, there is no hauen héere that I could see, but a quarter of
a mile by west southwest of the towne, is a great and costlie iuttie
in the sea for succour of ships. The towne is distant from Coliton,
about fiue miles. And heere we ended our voiage from the Auon,
which conteineth the whole coast of Dorcester, or Dorcetshire, so
that next we must enter into Summerset countie, and sée what waters
are there.

[Sidenote: Axe.]
The first water that we meet withall in Summersetshire is the Axe,
which riseth in a place called Axe knoll, longing to sir Giles
Strangwaie, néere vnto Cheddington in Dorsetshire, from whence it
runneth to Mosterne, Feborow, Claxton, Weiford bridge, Winsham
foord, and receiuing one rill from the east by Hawkechurch, and
soone after another comming from northwest by Churchstoke, from
[Sidenote: Yare aliàs Arte.]
Wainbroke, it goeth to Axeminster, beneath which it crosseth the
Yare, that commeth from about Buckland, by Whitstaunton, Yarecombe,
Long bridge, Stockeland, Kilmington bridge (where it receiueth a
brooke from by south, that runneth by Dalwood) and so into the Axe.
From hence our Axe goeth to Drake, Musburie, Culliford: but yer it
come altogither at Culliford, it méeteth with a water that riseth
aboue Cotleie, and goeth from thence by Widworthie, Culliton, and
there receiuing a rill also, procéedeth on after the confluence
aboue Culliford bridge, into the Axe, and from thence hold on
togither into the maine sea, whereinto they fall vnder the roots
of the winter cliffes, the points of them being almost a mile in
sunder. The most westerlie of them called Berewood, lieth within
halfe a mile of Seton.

But the other toward the east is named Whitecliffe, of which I saie
no more, but that "in the time of Athelstane, the greatest nauie
that euer aduentured into this Iland, arriued at Seton in Deuonshire,
being replenished with aliens that sought the conquest of this
Iland, but Athelstane met and incountered with them in the field,
where he ouerthrew six thousand of his aforesaid enimies. Not one
of them also that remained aliue, escaped from the battell without
some deadlie or verie gréeuous wound. In this conflict moreouer
were slaine fiue kings, which were interred in the churchyard of
Axe minster, and of the part of the king of England were killed
eight earles of the chéefe of his nobilitie, and they also buried
in the churchyard aforesaid. Héervnto it addeth how the bishop of
Shireburne was in like sort slaine in this battell, that began at
Brunedune neere to Coliton, and indured euen to Axe minster, which
then was called Brunberie or Brunburg. The same daie that this
thing happened the sunne lost his light, and so continued without
anie brightnesse, vntill the setting of that planet, though otherwise
the season was cléere and nothing cloudie."

As for the hauen which in times past as I haue heard, hath beene
[Sidenote: Sidde.]
[Sidenote: Seton.]
at Sidmouth (so called of Sidde a rillet that runneth thereto) and
likewise at Seton, I passe it ouer, sith now there is none at all.
Yet hath there béene sometime a notable one, albeit, that at this
present betweene the two points of the old hauen, there lieth a
mightie bar of pibble stones, in the verie mouth of it, and the
riuer Axe is driuen to the verie east point of the hauen called
White cliffe. Thereat also a verie little gull goeth into the sea,
whither small fisherbotes doo oft resort for succour. The men of
Seton began of late to stake and make a maine wall within the hauen
to haue changed the course of the Axe, and (almost in the middle
of the old hauen) to haue trenched through the Chesill, thereby to
haue let out the Axe, & to haue taken in the maine sea, but I heare
[Sidenote: Colie.]
of none effect that this attempt did come vnto. From Seton westward
lieth Coliton, about two miles by west northwest, whereof riseth
the riuer Colie. Colie, which going by the aforesaid towne, passeth
by Colecombe parke, and afterward falleth betweene Axe bridge and
Axe mouth towne into the Axe riuer.

By west of Bereworth point lieth a créeke, serued (so farre as I
[Sidenote: Sid.]
remember) with a fresh water that commeth from the hilles south of
Soutleie or Branscombe. Sidmouth hauen is the next, and thither
commeth a fresh water by S. Maries from the said hils, that goeth
from S. Maries aforesaid to Sidburie, & betweene Saltcombe & Sidmouth
[Sidenote: Autrie aliàs Ottereie.]
into the maine sea. By west of Auterton point also lieth another
hauen, and thither commeth a pretie riueret, whose head is in the
Hackpendon hilles, and commeth downe first by Vpauter, then by a
parke side to Mohuns Auter, Munketon, Honniton, Buckewell, and
[Sidenote: Tale.]
north of Autrie receiueth a rill called Tale, that riseth northwest
of Brodemburie in a wood, and from whence it commeth by Pehemburie,
Vinniton, and making a confluence with the other, they go as one
between Cadde and Autrie, to Herford, Luton, Collaton, Auterton,
Budeleie, and so into the sea. On the west side of this hauen is
Budeleie almost directly against Otterton. It is easie to be seene
also, that within lesse space than one hundred yeers, ships did
vse this hauen, but now it is barred vp. Some call it Budeleie
hauen of Budeleie towne, others Salterne port, of a little créeke
comming out of the maine hauen vnto Salterne village, that hath in
time past beene a towne of great estimation.

[Sidenote: Exe.]
The Ex riseth in Exmore in Summersetshire, néere vnto Ex crosse,
and goeth from thence vnto Exeford, Winsford, and Extun, where it
receiueth a water comming from Cutcombe, by north. Ater this
confluence it goeth on toward the south, till it méet with a pretie
brooke rising northeast of Whettell (going by Brunton Regis)
increased at the least with thrée rilles which come all from by
north. These being once met, this water runneth on by west of the
[Sidenote: Barleie.]
beacon that beareth the name of Haddon, & soone after taketh in
[Sidenote: Done aliàs Doue stroke.]
the Barleie, that receiueth in like sort the Done at Hawkbridge,
and from hence goeth by Dauerton, and Combe, and then doth méet
with the Exe, almost in the verie confines betwéene Dorset &
Summersetshires. Being past this coniunction, our Exe passeth
betweene Brushford and Murbath, and then to Exe bridge, where it
taketh in (as I heare) a water by west from east Austie: and after
this likewise another on ech side, whereof one commeth from Dixford,
[Sidenote: Woodburne.]
and Baunton, the other called Woodburne, somewhat by east of Okeford.
From these meetings it goeth to Caue and through the forrest and
woods to Hatherland and Washfields, vntill it come to Tiuerton,
and here it receiueth the Lomund water that riseth aboue Ashbrittle,
& commeth downe by Hockworthie, vpper Loman, and so to Tiuerton
[Sidenote: Lomund or Simming.]
that standeth almost euen in the verie confluence. Some call this
Lomund the Simming brooke or Sunnings bath. After this our Exe
goeth to Bickleie, Theuerten, (taking in a rill by west) nether
[Sidenote: Columbe.]
Exe, Bramford, beneath which it ioineth with the Columbe that riseth
of one head northeast of Clarie Haidon, and of another south of
Shildon, and méeting beneath Columbe stocke, goeth by Columbe and
Bradfeld, and there crossing a rill that commeth by Ashford, it
runneth south to Wood, More haies, Columbton, Brandnicke, Beare,
Columbe Iohn, Hoxham, and ioining (as I said) with the Exe at
Bramford, passing vnder but one bridge, yet it meet with another
[Sidenote: Cride.]
[Sidenote: Forten.]
water by west, growing of the Forten and Cride waters (except it
be so that I doo iudge amisse.) The Cride riseth aboue Wollesworthie,
and néere vnto Vpton: after it is past Dewrish, crosseth a rill
from betweene Puggill and Stockeleie by Stocke English, &c. From
hence it goeth to Fulford, where it méeteth with the Forten, wherof
one branch commeth by Caldbrooke, the other from S. Marie Tedburne,
and ioining aboue Crediton, the chanell goeth on to the Cride,
(which yer long also receiueth another from by north, comming by
Stockeleie and Combe) then betweene Haine and Newton Sires, to
Pines, and so into the Exe, which staieth not vntill it come to
Excester. From Excester (whither the burgesses in time past laboured
to bring the same, but in vaine) it runneth to Were, there taking
in a rill from by west, and an other lower by Exminster, next of
[Sidenote: Cliuus.]
all vnto Toppesham; beneath which towne the Cliue entreth thereinto,
which rising about Plumtree, goeth by Cliff Haidon, Cliff Laurence,
Brode Cliff, Honiton, Souton, Bishops Cliff, S. Marie Cliff, Cliff
saint George, and then into the Exe, that runneth forward by Notwell
[Sidenote: Ken.]
court, Limston and Pouderham castell. Here (as I heare) it taketh
in the Ken, or Kenton brooke (as Leland calleth it) comming from
Holcombe parke, by Dunsdike, Shillingford, Kenford, Ken, Kenton,
and so into Exe hauen, at whose mouth lie certeine rocks which they
call the Checkstones, except I be deceiued. The next fall, whereof
Leland saith nothing at all, commeth by Ashcombe and Dulish, and
hath his head in the hilles thereby.

[Sidenote: Teigne.]
The Teigne mouth is the next fall that we came to, & it is a goodlie
port foure miles from Exemouth. The head of this water is twentie
miles from the sea at Teigne head in Dartmore among the Gidleie
hilles. From whence it goeth to Gidleie towne, Teignton drue, where
[Sidenote: Crokerne.]
it receiueth the Crokerne comming from by north, and likewise an
other west of Fulford parke. Then it goeth to Dufford, Bridford,
[Sidenote: Bouie.]
Kirslowe, Chidleie, Knighton, and beneath the bridge there receiueth
the Bouie, whose course is to north Bouie, Lilleie, and Bouitracie.
[Sidenote: Eidis.]
Thence it runneth to kings Teignton, taking in Eidis, a brooke
beneath Preston that commeth from Edeford by the waie. And when it
[Sidenote: Leman.]
is past this confluence, at kings Teignton, it crosseth the Leman,
[Sidenote: Aller.]
which commeth from Saddleton rocke by Beckington, and Newton Bushels:
and soone after the Aller that riseth betwéene Danburie and Warog
well, afterward falling into the sea by Bishops Teignton, south of
Teignmouth towne.

The verie vtter west point of the land, at the mouth of Teigne is
called the Nesse, and is a verie high red cliffe. The east part of
the hauen is named the Poles, a low sandie ground, either cast vp
by the spuing of the sand out of the Teigne, or else throwne vp
from the shore by the rage of wind and water. This sand occupieth
now a great quantitie of the ground betweene the hauen where the
sand riseth, and Teignmouth towne, which towne (surnamed Regis)
hath in time past béene sore defaced by the Danes, and of late time
by the French.

From Teignemouth we came to Tor baie, wherof the west point is
called Birie, and the east Perritorie, betwéene which is little
aboue foure miles. From Tor baie also to Dartmouth is six miles,
where (saith Leland) I marked diuerse things. First of all vpon
the east side of the hauen a great hillie point called Downesend,
and betwixt Downesend, and a pointlet named Wereford is a little
baie. Were it selfe, in like sort, is not full a mile from Downesend
vpward into the hauen. Kingswere towne standeth out as another
pointlet, and betwixt it & Wereford is the second baie. Somewhat
moreouer aboue Kingswere towne goeth a little creeke vp into the
land from the maine streame of the hauen called Waterhead, and this
is a verie fit place for vessels to be made in. In like sort halfe
a mile beyond this into the landward goeth another longer créeke,
and aboue that also a greater than either of these called Gawnston,
whose head is here not halfe a mile from the maine sea, by the
compassing thereof, as it runneth in Tor baie.

[Sidenote: Dart.]
The riuer of Dart or Darent (for I read Derenta muth for Dartmouth)
commeth out of Dartmore fiftéene miles aboue Totnesse, in a verie
large plot, and such another wild morish & forrestie ground as
Exmore is. Of it selfe moreouer this water is verie swift, and
thorough occasion of tin-workes whereby it passeth, it carrieth
much sand to Totnesse bridge, and so choketh the depth of the riuer
downeward, that the hauen it selfe is almost spoiled by the same.
The mariners of Dartmouth accompt this to be about a kenning from
Plimmouth. The Darent therefore proceeding from the place of his
vprising, goeth on to Buckland, from whence it goeth to Buckland
[Sidenote: Ashburne.]
hole; and soone after taking in the Ashburne water on the one side
[Sidenote: Buckeastlich.]
that runneth from Saddleton rocke by north, and the Buckfastlich
that commeth from north west, it runneth to Staunton, Darington,
Hemston, and there also crossing a rill on ech side passeth foorth
[Sidenote: Hartburne.]
to Totnesse, Bowden, and aboue Gabriell Stoke, méeteth with the
Hartburne that runneth vnder Rost bridge, two miles aboue Totnes,
or (as another saith) by Ratter, Harberton, Painesford, and Asprempton
into Darent, which yon long also commeth to Corneworthie, Grenewaie,
Ditsham, Darntmouth towne (whervnto king Iohn gaue sometimes a
maior, as he did vnto Totnesse) from thence betwéene the castelles,
and finallie into sea.

From hence we went by Stokeflemming to another water, which commeth
from blacke Auton, then to the second that falleth in east of
Slapton, and so coasting out of this baie by the Start point, we
saile almost directlie west, till we come to Saltcombe hauen. Certes
this port hath verie little fresh water comming to it, and therefore
no meruell though it be barred; yet the head of it (such as it is)
riseth néere Buckland, and goeth to Dudbrooke, which standeth
betwéene two créekes. Thence it hieth to Charleton, where it taketh
in a rill, whose head commeth from south and north of Shereford.
Finallie it hath another créeke that runneth vp by Ilton: and the
last of all that falleth in north of Portlemouth, whose head is so
néere the baie last afore remembred, that it maketh it a sorie
peninsula (as I haue heard it said.)

[Sidenote: Awne.]
Then come we to the Awne, whose head is in the hils farre aboue
Brent towne, from whence it goeth to Dixford wood, Loddewell, Hache,
[Sidenote: Arme.]
Aunton, Thorleston, and so into the sea ouer against a rocke called
S. Michaels burrow. Arme riseth aboue Harford, thence to Stoford,
Iuie bridge, Armington bridge, Fléet, Orchardton, Ownewell, and so
vnto the sea, which is full of flats and rocks, so that no ship
commeth thither in anie tempest, except it be forced therto, through
[Sidenote: Sée Hen. 7. page. 792, 793, 794.]
the vttermost extremitie and desperat hazard of the fearefull
mariners. King Philip of Castile lost two ships here in the daies
of king Henrie the seuenth, when he was driuen to land in the west
[Sidenote: Yalme.]
countrie by the rage of weather. Yalme goeth by Cornewood, Slade,
Stratleie, Yalmeton, Collaton, Newton ferrie, and so into the sea,
about foure miles by south east from the maine streame of Plimmouth.
[Sidenote: Plim.]
Being past these portlets, then next of all we come to Plimmouth
hauen, a verie busie péece to describe, bicause of the numbers of
waters that resort vnto it, & small helpe that I haue for the
knowledge of their courses; yet will I doo what I may in this, as
in the rest, and so much I hope by Gods grace to performe, as shall
suffice my purpose in this behalfe.

[Sidenote: Plim.]
The Plimne or Plim, is the verie same water that giueth name to
Plimpton towne. The mouth of this gulfe, wherein the ships doo
ride, is walled on ech side and chained ouer in time of necessitie,
and on the south side of the hauen is a blocke house vpon a rockie
hill: but as touching the riuer it selfe, it riseth in the hils
west of Cornewood, and commeth downe a short course of thrée miles
[Sidenote: Stoure aliàs Catwater.]
to Newenham after it be issued out of the ground. From Newenham
also it runneth to Plimpton, and soone after into the Stoure, which
Stoure ariseth northwest of Shepistour, & goeth from thence to
Memchurch, Hele, Shane, Bickleie, and so to Eford, where taking in
the Plim, it runneth downe as one vnder the name of Plim, vntill
it go past Plimmouth, and fall into the hauen south east of Plimmouth
aforesaid. I haue oftentimes trauelled to find out the cause whie
so manie riuers in England are called by this name Stoure, and at
the first supposing that it was growne by the corruption of Dour,
the British word for a streame, I rested thervpon as resolued for
a season: but afterward finding the word to be méere Saxon, and
that Stouremare is a prouince subiect to the duke of Saxonie, I
yéelded to another opinion: whereby I conceiue that the said name
was first deriued from the Saxons. But to returne to our purpose.

Plimmouth it selfe standeth betweene two créeks, not serued with
anie backewater, therefore passing ouer these two, we enter into
the Thamar that dischargeth it selfe into the aforesaid hauen.
Going therfore vp that streame, which for the most part parteth
[Sidenote: Taue or Tauie.]
Deuonshire from Cornewall, the first riueret that I met withall on
the east side is called Tauie, the head whereof is among the
mounteins foure miles aboue Peters Tauie, beneath which it meeteth
with another water from by west, so that these two waters include
Marie Tauie betwéene them, though nothing néere the confluence.
From hence the Taue or Tauie runneth to Tauistocke, aboue which it
taketh in a rill from by west, and another aboue north Buckland,
whose head is in Dartmore, and commeth therevnto by Sandford and
Harrow bridge. From hence it goeth into Thamar, by north Buckland,
moonks Buckland, Beare, and Tamerton follie. Hauing thus dispatched
[Sidenote: Lidde.]
the Tauie, the next that falleth in on the east side vpwards is
the Lidde, which rising in the hils aboue Lidford, runneth downe
by Curriton and Siddenham, and so to Lidstone, aboue which it
[Sidenote: Trushell.]
receiueth the Trushell brooke, which rising north east of Brediston,
goeth by Trusholton to Ibaine, where it receiueth a rill that
commeth by Bradwood from Germanswike, and after the confluence
runneth to Liston, and from thence into the Thamar. The next aboue
[Sidenote: Core.]
this is the Corewater, this ariseth somewhere about Elwell or
Helwell, and going by Virginston, runneth on by saint Giles without
anie increase vntill it come to Thamar. Next of all it taketh in
two brookes not much distant in sunder, whereof the one commeth in
by Glanton, the other from Holsworthie, and both east of Tamerton,
which standeth on the further banke, & other side of the Thamar,
and west northwest of Tedcote, except the quarter deceiue me.

[Sidenote: Thamar.]
Certes, the Thamar it selfe riseth in Summersetshire, about thrée
miles northeast of Hartland, and in maner so crosseth ouer the
whole west countrie betwéene sea and sea, that it leaueth Cornewall,
a byland or peninsula. Being therefore descended from the head, by
a tract of six miles, it commeth to Denborow, Pancrase well, Bridge
Reuell, Tamerton, Tetcote, Luffencote, Boiton, and Wirrington,
[Sidenote: Arteie.]
where it meeteth with a water on the west side called Arteie, that
riseth short of Jacobstow. Two miles in like sort from this
confluence, we met with the Kenseie, whose head is short of Warpeston
[Sidenote: Kenseie.]
by south east: from whence it goeth by Treneglos, Tremone, Tresmure,
Trewen, Lanston, and so into the Thamar, that runneth from hence
by Lowwhitton vnto Bradston, and going on toward Dunterton, taketh
in a rill from south Pitherwijc, and by Lesant; beneath Dunterton
[Sidenote: Enian.]
also it crosseth the Enian. This riuer riseth at Dauidston, and
directeth his race by saint Clethir, Lancast, and Trelaske first;
and then vnder sundrie bridges, vntill it méet with the Thamar.
From hence also the Thamar goeth by Siddenham to Calstocke bridge,
Calstocke towne, Clifton, Cargreue (there abouts taking in a créeke
[Sidenote: Liuer.]
aboue Landilip) and running on from thence, hasteth toward Saltash,
where it receiueth the Liuer water. The head of Liuer is about
Broomwellie hill, from whence it goeth on to North hill, Lekenhorne,
South hill, and taking in a rill by east (from aboue Kellington)
it runneth on to Newton, Pillaton, Wootton, Blosfleming, saint
Erne, and beneath this village crosseth a rillet that runneth
thither from Bicton by Quithiocke, saint Germans, and Sheuiocke.
But to procéed. After the confluence, it goeth betweene Erlie and
Fro Martine castell, and soone after taking in a rill from by north,
that passeth west of saint Steuens, it is not long yer it fall into
the Thamar, which after this (receiuing the Milbrooke creeke) goeth
on by Edgecombe, and betweene saint Michaels Ile and Ridden point
into the maine sea. And thus haue I finished the description of
Plimmouth water, and all such falles as are betwéene Newston rocke
on the east side, and the Ram head on the other.

After this we proceeded on with our iournie toward the west, and
passing by Longstone, we came soone after to Sothan baie, where we
[Sidenote: Sutton.]
crossed the Seton water, whose head is about Liscard, & his course
[Sidenote: Low.]
by Minheniet, Chafrench, Tregowike, Sutton and so into the sea.
Then came we to Low, and going in betweene it and Mount Ile, we
find that it had a branched course, and thereto the confluence
aboue Low. The chiefe head riseth in the hils, as it were two miles
aboue Gaine, and going by that towne, it ceaseth not to continue
his course east of Dulo, till it come a little aboue Low, where it
crosseth and ioineth with the Brodoke water that runneth from
[Sidenote: Polpir.]
Brodokes by Trewargo, and so into the sea. Next vnto these are two
other rils, of which one is called Polpir, before we come at Foy,
or Fawy.

[Sidenote: Fawie.]
Foy or Fawy riuer riseth in Fawy moore, on the side of an hill in
[Sidenote: Glin.]
Fawy moore, from whence it runneth by certeine bridges, till it
méet with the Glin water west of Glin towne, which rising aboue
Temple, & meeting with a rill that commeth in from S. Neotes, doth
fall into Fawy a mile and more aboue Resprin from by east. After
this confluence then, it goeth to Resprin bridge, Lestermen castell,
[Sidenote: Lerinus.]
Lostwithiell bridge, Pill, saint Kingtons, saint Winnow, and Golant,
and here also receiueth the Lerine water out of a parke, that taketh
his waie into the maine streame by Biconke, Tethe, and the Fining
house. Being thus vnited, it proceedeth vnto Fawy towne, taking in
a rill or creeke from aboue it on the one side, and another beneath
it south of Halling on the other: of which two this latter is the
longest of course, sith it runneth thrée good miles before it come
[Sidenote: Faw.]
at the Foy. Leland writing of this riuer addeth verie largelie
vnto it after this maner. The Fawy riseth in Fawy moore (about two
miles from Camilford by south, and sixtéene miles from Fawy towne)
in a verie quaue mire on the side of an hill. From hence it goeth
to Drainesbridge, to Clobham bridge, Lergen bridge, New bridge,
Resprin bridge, and Lostwithiell bridge; where it meeteth with a
little brooke, and néere therevnto parteth it selfe in twaine. Of
these two armes therefore one goeth to a bridge of stone, the other
to another of timber, and soone after ioining againe, the maine
riuer goeth to saint Gwinnowes, from thence also to the point of
saint Gwinnowes wood, which is about halfe a mile from thence,
except my memorie dooth faile me. Here goeth in a salt créeke halfe
a mile on the east side of the hauen, and at the head of it is a
bridge called Lerine bridge; the créeke it selfe in like maner
bearing the same denomination.

[Sidenote: In the middle of this créeke was a cell of S. Ciret in an
Islet longing sometimes to Mountegew a priorie.]
From Lerine créeke, to S. Caracs pill or créeke, is about halfe a
mile, and Lower on the east side of the said hauen: it goeth vp
also not aboue a mile and an halfe into the land. From Caracs
créeke to Poulmorland a mile, and this likewise goeth vp scant a
quarter of a mile into the land, yet at the head it parteth it
selfe in twaine. From Poulmorland vnto Bodnecke village halfe a
mile, where the passage and repassage is commonlie to Fawy. From
Bodnecke to Pelene point (where a créeke goeth vp not fullie a
thousand paces into the land) a mile, thence to Poulruan a quarter
of a mile, and at this Poulruan is a tower of force, marching
against the tower on Fawy side, betwéene which (as I doo heare) a
chaine hath sometime beene stretched, and likelie inough; for the
hauen there is hardly two bow shot ouer. The verie point of land
at the east side of the mouth of this hauen, is called Pontus
crosse, but now Panuche crosse. It shall not be amisse in this
[Sidenote: Comwhath.]
place somewhat to intreat of the towne of Fawy, which is called in
Cornish Comwhath, and being situat on the northside of the hauen,
is set hanging on a maine rockie hill, being in length about one
quarter of a mile, except my memorie deceiue me.

The renowme of Fawy rose by the wars vnder king Edward the first,
Edward the third, and Henrie the fift, partlie by feats of armes,
and partlie by plaine pirasie. Finallie, the townesmen feeling
themselues somwhat at ease and strong in their purses, they fell
to merchandize, and so they prospered in this their new deuise,
that as they trauelled into all places, so merchants from all
countries made resort to them, whereby within a while they grew to
be exceeding rich. The ships of Fawy sailing on a time by Rhie and
Winchelseie in the time of king Edward the third, refused stoutlie
to vale anie bonet there, although warning was giuen them so to
doo by the portgreues or rulers of those townes. Herevpon the Rhie
and Winchelseie men made out vpon them with cut and long taile:
but so hardlie were they interteined by the Fawy pirates (I should
saie aduenturers) that they were driuen home againe with no small
losse and hinderance. Such fauour found the Fawy men also immediatlie
vpon this bickering, that in token of their victorie ouer their
winching aduersaries, and riding ripiers (as they called them in
mockerie) they altered their armes and compounded for new, wherein
[Sidenote: Gallants of Foy or Fawy.]
the scutchion of Rhie and Winchelseie is quartered with theirs,
and beside this the Foyens were called the gallants of Fawy or Foy,
whereof they not a little reioiced, and more peraduenture than for
some greater bootie. And thus much of Fawy towne, wherein we sée
what great successe often commeth of witlesse and rash aduentures.
But to returne againe to our purpose from whence we haue digressed,
and as hauing some desire to finish vp this our voiage, we will
leaue the Fawmouth & go forward on our iournie.

Being therefore past this hauen, we come into Trewardith baie,
which lieth into the land betwéene Canuasse and the Blacke head
point, and here about Leland placeth Vrctoum promontorium. In this
we saw the fall of two small brookes, not one verie far distant
from another. The first of them entring west of Trewardith, the
other east of saint Blaies, and both directlie against Curwarder
rocke, except I mistake my compasse. Neither of them are of anie
great course, and the longest not full thrée miles and an halfe.
Wherfore sith they are neither branched nor of anie great quantitie,
what should I make long haruest of a little corne and spend more
time than may well be spared about them?

[Sidenote: Austell.]
When we were past the Blacke head, we came to Austell brooke, which
is increased with a water that commeth from aboue Mewan, and within
a mile after the confluence, they fall into the sea at Pentoren,
[Sidenote: Chare.]
from whence we went by the Blacke rocke, and about the Dudman point,
till we came to Chare haies, where falleth in a pretie water, whose
head is two miles aboue saint Tues. Thence we went by here and
there a méere salt créeke, till we passed the Graie rocke, in
Gwindraith baie, and S. Anthonies point, where Leland maketh his
accompt to enter into Falamouth hauen.

[Sidenote: Fala.]
The Fala riseth a little by north of Penuenton towne, and going
westward till it come downwards toward saint Dionise, it goeth
forth from thence to Melader, saint Steuens Grampont, Goldon, Crede,
Corneleie, Tregue, Moran, Tregunnan, it falleth into the hauen with
a good indifferent force: and this is the course of Fala. But least
I should séeme to omit those creekes that are betwéene this and S.
Anthonies point, I will go a little backe againe, and fetch in so
manie of them, as come now to my remembrance. Entring therefore
into the port, we haue a créeke that runneth vp by saint Anthonies
toward saint Gereus, then another that goeth into the land by east
of saint Maries castell, with a forked head, passing in the meane
time by a great rocke that lieth in the verie midst of the hauen,
in maner of the third point of a triangle, betwéene saint Maries
castell and Pendinant.

Thence we cast about by the said castell, and came by another créeke
that falleth in by east, then the second aboue saint Iustus, the
third at Ardenora, the fourth at Rilan. And hauing as it were
visited all these in order, we came backe againe about by Tregonnian,
and then going vpward betweene it and Taluerne, till we came to
Fentangolan, we found the confluence of two great creekes beneath
saint Clements, whereof one hath a fresh water comming downe by S.
Merther, the other another from Truro, increased with sundrie
branches, though not one of them of anie greatnesse, and therefore
vnworthie to be handled. Pole hole standeth vpon the head almost
of the most easterlie of them. S. Kenwen and Truro stand aboue the
confluence of other two. The fourth falleth in by west from certeine
hils: as for the fift and sixt, as they be little créeks and no
fresh, so haue I lesse language and talke to spend about them.

[Sidenote: S. Caie.]
Of saint Caie, and saint Feokes créeke, whose issue is betwéene
Restronget and créeke of Trurie, I sée no cause to make any long
[Sidenote: S. Feoks.]
spéech; yet I remember that the towne of S. Feoke standeth betwéene
them both. That also called after this saint, rising aboue
Perannarwothill, and comming thence by Kirklo, falleth into Falamouth,
[Sidenote: Milor.]
northeast of Milor, which standeth vpon the point betwéene it and
Milor créeke. Milor creeke is next Restronget: some call it Milor
poole, from whence we went by Trefusis point, and there found an
other great fall from Perin, which being branched in the top, hath
Perin towne almost in the verie confluence. And thus much by my
collection of the fall. But for somuch as Leland hath taken some
paines in the description of this riuer, I will not suffer it to
perish, sith there is other matter conteined therein worthie
remembrance, although not deliuered in such order as the thing it
selfe requireth.

[Sidenote: Fala.]
The verie point (saith he) of the hauen mouth (being an hill whereon
the king hath builded a castell) is called Pendinant. It is about
a mile in compasse, almost inuironed with the sea: and where the
sea couereth not, the ground is so low that it were a small mastrie
to make Pendinant an Iland. Furthermore, there lieth a cape or
foreland within the hauen a mile and a halfe, and betwixt this and
maister Killigrewes house one great arme of the hauen runneth vp
[Sidenote: Leuine.]
to Penrine towne, which is three miles from the verie entrie of
Falamouth hauen, and two good miles from Penfusis. Moreouer there
is Leuine, Priselo, betwixt saint Budocus and Pendinas, which were
a good hauen but for the barre of sand. But to procéed.

The first creeke or arme that casteth on the northwest side of
Falemouth hauen, goeth vp to Perin, and at the end it breaketh into
two armes, whereof the lesse runneth to Glasenith, Viridis nidus,
the gréene nest, or Wagméere at Penrine: the other to saint Glunias
the parish church of Penrine. In like sort out of each side of
Penrine créeke, breaketh an arme yer it come to Penrine. This I
vnderstand also that stakes and foundations of stone haue béene
set in the créeke at Penrine a little lower than the wharfe, where
it breaketh into armes: but howsoeuer this standeth, betwixt the
[Sidenote: Milor.]
point of Trefusis and the point of Restronget is Milor créeke,
which goeth vp a mile into the land, and by the church is a good
rode for ships. The next creeke beyond the point of Restronget
[Sidenote: Restronget.]
wood, is called Restronget, which going two miles vp into the maine,
breaketh into two armes. In like order betwixt Restronget and the
[Sidenote: S. Feoks.]
[Sidenote: S. Caie.]
créeke of Trurie be two créekes; one called saint Feokes, the other
saint Caie, next vnto which is Trurie créeke that goeth vp about
two miles, créeking from the principall streame, and breaketh within
halfe a mile of Trurie, casting in a branch westward euen hard by
Newham wood.

[Sidenote: Trurie créeke.]
This creeke of Trurie is diuided into two parts before the towne
of Trurie, and each of them hauing a brooke comming downe and a
bridge, the towne of Trurie standeth betwixt them both. In like
sort Kenwen stréet is seuered from the said towne with this arme,
and Clements street by east with the other. Out of the bodie also
of Trurie creeke breaketh another eastward a mile from Trurie, and
goeth vp a mile and a halfe to Cresilian bridge of stone. At the
verie entrie and mouth of this créeke is a rode of ships called
Maples rode: and here fought not long since eightéene ships of
Spanish merchants, with foure ships of warre of Deepe, but the
Spaniards draue the Frenchmen all into this harborow. A mile and
an halfe aboue the mouth of Crurie creeke, is another named Lhan
[Sidenote: Moran.]
Moran of S. Morans church at hand. This créeke goeth vp a quarter
of a mile from the maine streame into the hauen, as the maine
streame goeth vp two miles aboue Moran créeke ebbing and flowing:
and a quarter of a mile higher, is the towne of Cregowie, where we
found a bridge of stone vpon the Fala riuer. Fala it selfe riseth
a mile or more west of Roche hill, and goeth by Graund pont, where
I saw a bridge of stone.

[Sidenote: Graund pont.]
This Graund pont is foure miles from Roche hill, and two little
miles from Cregowie, betwixt which the Fala taketh his course. From
Cregowie to passe downe by the bodie of the hauen of Falamouth to
the mouth of Lanie horne pill or créeke, on the south side of the
hauen is a mile, and (as I remember) it goeth vp halfe a mile from
the principall streame of the hauen. From Lanihorne pill also is
a place or point of sand about a mile waie of fortie acres or
thereabout (as a peninsula) called Ardeuerauter. As for the water
or créeke that runneth into the south southeast part, it is but a
little thing of halfe a mile vp into the land, and the créeke that
hemmeth in this peninsula, of both dooth seeme to be the greater.
From the mouth of the west creeke of this peninsula, vnto saint
Iustes creeke, is foure miles or more.

[Sidenote: S. Iustus.]
[Sidenote: S. Mawes.]
In like maner from saint Iustes pill or créeke (for both signifie
one thing) to saint Mawes creeke is a mile and a halfe, and the
point betwéene them both is called Pendinas. The créeke of saint
Mawes goeth vp a two miles by east northeast into the land, and
beside that it ebbeth and floweth so farre, there is a mill driuen
with a fresh créeke that resorteth to the same. Halfe a mile from
the head of this downeward to the hauen, is a créeke in maner of
a poole, whereon is a mill also that grindeth with the tide. And
a mile beneath that on the south side entereth a créeke (about
halfe a mile into the countrie) which is barred, from the maine
sea by a small sandie banke, and another mile yet lower, is an
other little créekelet. But how so euer these créekes doo run,
certeine it is that the bankes of them that belong to Fala are
meruellouslie well woodded. And hitherto Leland, whose words I dare
not alter, for feare of corruption and alteration of his iudgement.
Being past Falmouth hauen therefore (as it were a quarter of a mile
beyond Arwennach, maister Killegrewes place which standeth on the
brimme or shore within Falmouth) we came to a little hauen which
ran vp betwéene two hilles, but it was barred: wherefore we could
not learne whether it were serued with anie backe fresh water or
not.

[Sidenote: Polwitherall.]
From thence we went by Polwitherall creeke (parted into two armes)
[Sidenote: Polpenrith.]
then to the Polpenrith, wherevnto a riueret falleth that riseth
not farre from thence, and so goeth to the maine streame of the
hauen at the last, whither the créeke resorteth about three miles
[Sidenote: Wike.]
[Sidenote: Gare.]
and more from the mouth of the hauen, and into which the water that
[Sidenote: Mogun.]
goeth vnder Gare and Mogun bridges, doo fall in one bottome (as
[Sidenote: Penkestell.]
[Sidenote: Callous.]
[Sidenote: Cheilow.]
[Sidenote: Gilling.]
Leland hath reported.) Vnto this hauen also repaireth the Penkestell,
the Callous, the Cheilow, and the Gilling, although this latter
lieth against saint Mawuons on the hither side hard without the
hauen mouth (if I haue doone aright.) For so motheaten, mouldie,
& rotten are those bookes of Leland which I haue, and beside that,
his annotations are such and so confounded, as no man can (in a
maner) picke out anie sense from them by a leafe togither. Wherefore
I suppose that he dispersed and made his notes intricate of set
purpose: or else he was loth that anie man should easilie come to
that knowledge by reading, which he with his great charge & no
lesse trauell atteined vnto by experience. Thus leauing Fala hauen,
as more troublesome for me to describe, than profitable for seafaring
men, without good aduise to enter into, we left the rocke on our
left hand, and came straight southwest to Helford hauen, whose
[Sidenote: Haile.]
water commeth downe from Wréeke (where is a confluence of two small
rilles whereof that rill consisteth) by Mawgan and Trelawarren,
and then it receiueth a rill on the north ripe from Constantine,
after whose confluence it goeth a maine vntill it come to the Ocean,
where the mouth is spoiled by sand comming from the tinworks. See
Leland in the life of S. Breaca. Beneath this also is another rill
comming from S. Martyrs, by whose course, and another ouer against
it on the west side that falleth into the sea by Winniton, all
Menage is left almost in maner of an Iland. From hence we go south
to the Manacle point, then southwest to Lisard, and so north and
by west to Predannocke points, beyond which we méet with the fall
of the said water that riseth in the edge of Menag, and goeth into
the sea by Melien on the north, and Winniton on the south. By north
[Sidenote: Curie.]
also of Winniton is the Curie water that runneth short of Magan,
and toucheth with the Ocean south of Pengwenian point.

[Sidenote: Loo.]
From hence we sailed to the Loo mouth, which some call Lopoole,
because it is narrower at the fall into the sea, than it is betwéene
the sea and Hailston. It riseth aboue S. Sethians, and comming
downe by Wendron, it hasteth to Hailston or Helston, from whence
onelie it is called Loo: but betwéene Helston and the head, men
call it commonlie Cohor. Of this riuer Leland saith thus: The
Lopoole is two miles in length, and betwixt it and the maine Ocean
is but a barre of sand that once in thrée or foure yéeres, what by
weight of the fresh water, and working of the sea breaketh out, at
which time it maketh a wonderfull noise: but soone after the mouth
of it is barred vp againe. At all other times the superfluitie of
the water of Lopole (which is full of trout and éele) draineth out
through the sandie barre into the open sea: certes if this barre
could alwaies be kept open, it would make a goodlie hauen vp vnto
Haileston towne, where coinage of tin is also vsed, as at Trurie
and Lostwithiell, for the quéenes aduantage.

Being passed the Loo, I came to another water that descendeth
[Sidenote: Simneie.]
without anie increase from Crowan by Simneie, whose whole course
is not aboue thrée miles in all. Then going by the Cuddan point,
we entered the mounts Baie, and going streight north (leauing S.
[Sidenote: Lid.]
Michaels mount a little vpon the left hand) we came to the Lid,
which rising short of Tewidnacke, descendeth by Lidgenan, and so
into the sea. Certes the course of these waters cannot be long,
sith in this verie place this breadth of land is not aboue foure
miles, and not more than fiue at the verie lands end. There is also
a rill east of Korugie, and Guluall, and another west of the same
hard at hand, and likewise the third east of Pensants: and not a
full quarter of a mile from the second, southwest of Pensants also
lieth the fourth that commeth from Sancrete ward by Newlin, from
whence going southwest out of the baie by Moushole Ile, that lieth
south of Moushole towne, we come to a water that entreth into the
Ocean betwixt Remels & Lamorleie point. Trulie the one head thereof
commeth from by west of Sancrete, the other from by west of an hill
that standeth betwéene them both, and ioining aboue Remels, it is
not long yer they salute their grandame. After this, and before we
come at Rosecastell, there are two other créekes, whereof one is
called Boskennie, that riseth south of saint Buriens, and an other
somewhat longer than the first, that issueth by west of the aforesaid
towne, wherein is to be noted, that our cards made heretofore doo
appoint S. Buriens to be at the very lands end of Cornewall, but
experience now teacheth vs, that it commeth not néere the lands
end by thrée miles. This latter rill also is the last that I doo
reade of on the south side, and likewise on the west and north,
[Sidenote: Bresan Ile.]
till we haue sailed to S. Ies baie, which is full ten miles from
the lands end, or Bresan Ile eastward, & rather more, if you reckon
to the fall of the Haile, which lieth in the very middest and
highest part of the baie of the same. The soile also is verie hillie
here, as for saint Ies towne, it is almost (as I said) a byland,
and yet is it well watered with sundrie rilles that come from those
hilles vnto the same.

[Sidenote: Haile.]
The Haile riseth in such maner, and from so manie heads, as I haue
before said: howbeit I will adde somewhat more vnto it, for the
benefit of my readers. Certes the chéefe head of Haile riseth by
west of Goodalfin hilles, and going downe toward saint Erthes, it
receiueth the second, and best of the other three rilles from
[Sidenote: Clowart.]
Goodalfin towne: finallie, comming to saint Erthes, and so vnto
the maine baie, it taketh in the Clowart water from Guimer, south
of Phelacke, which hath two heads, the said village standing
directlie betwixt them both.

[Sidenote: Caine.]
The Caine riseth southeast of Caineburne towne a mile and more,
from whence it goeth without increase by west of Gwethian, and so
into the sea west of Mara Darwaie. From hence we coasted about the
point, & left the baie till we came to a water that riseth of two
heads from those hilles that lie by south of the same: one of them
also runneth by saint Vni, another by Redreuth, and méeting within
[Sidenote: Luggam.]
a mile, they fall into the Ocean beneath Luggam or Tuggan. A mile
and a halfe from this fall we come vnto another small rill, and
likewise two other créekes, betwixt which the towne of saint Agnes
standeth; and likewise the fourth halfe a mile beyond the most
easterlie of these, whose head is almost thrée miles within the
land in a towne called saint Alin. Thence going by the Manrocke,
and west of saint Piran in the sand, we find a course of thrée
miles and more from the head, and hauing a forked branch, the parts
[Sidenote: S. Pirans créeke.]
[Sidenote: Carantocke.]
doo méet at west aboue saint Kibbard, and so go into the sea. I
take this to be saint Pirans créeke, for the next is Carantocke
pill or créeke, whose head is at Guswarth, from whence it goeth
vnto Trerise, and soone after taking in a rill from by west, it
runneth into the sea coast of saint Carantakes. Beyond this is
another créeke that riseth aboue little saint Colan, and goeth by
lesse saint Columbe: and east and by north hereof commeth downe
one more whose head is almost south of the Nine stones, & going
from thence to great saint Columbes, it passeth by Lamberne, and
so into the sea. S. Merous créeke is but a little one, rising west
of Padstow, and falling in almost ouer against the Gull rocke. Then
[Sidenote: Padstow.]
[Sidenote: Locus bufonis.]
turning betwéene the point and the blacke rocke, we entred into
Padstow hauen thrée miles lower than port Issec, and a mile from
port Ewin, whose waters remaine next of all to be described.

[Sidenote: Alannus.]
The Alan ariseth flat east from the hauen mouth of Padstow, well
[Sidenote: Eniam.]
néere eight or nine miles about Dauidstone, neere vnto which the
Eniam also issueth, that runneth into the Thamar. Going therefore
from hence it passeth to Camelford, saint Aduen, saint Bernard
(both Cornish saints) and soone after receiueth a rill at northeast,
descending from Rowters hill. Thence it goeth to Bliseland, and
Helham, the first bridge of name that standeth vpon Alin. Yer long
also it taketh in one rill by south from Bodman, another from saint
Laurence, the third by west of this, and the fourth that commeth
by Wethiell, no one of them excéeding the course of thrée miles,
and all by south. From hence it goeth toward Iglesaleward, and
there receiueth a water on the east side, which commeth about two
miles from saint Teath, by Michelston, saint Tuchoe, saint Maben
(mo Cornish patrons) and finallie south of Iglesall, méeteth with
the Alen that goeth from thence by S. Breaca to Woodbridge. Hereabout
[Sidenote: Carneseie.]
[Sidenote: Laine.]
I find, that into our Alein or Alen, there should fall two riuerets,
whereof the one is called Carneseie, the other Laine, and comming
in the end to full notice of the matter, I sée them to issue on
seuerall sides beneath Woodbridge almost directlie the one against
the other. That which descendeth from northwest, and riseth about
saint Kew, is named Carneseie, as I heare: the other that commeth
in on the southwest banke hight Laine, and noted by Leland to rise
two miles aboue S. Esse. But howsoeuer this matter standeth, there
[Sidenote: Pethrike.]
[Sidenote: Minner.]
are two other créekes on ech side also, beneath these, as Pethrike
creeke, and Minner créeke (so called of the Cornish saints) for
[Sidenote: Dunmere.]
that soile bred manie, wherewith I finish the description of Alen,
or (as some call it) Dunmere, and other Padstow water.

From Padstow hauen also they saile out full west to Waterford in
Ireland. There are likewise two rockes, which lie in the east side
of the hauen, secretlie hidden at full sea, as two pads in the
straw, whereof I think it taketh the name. Yet I remember how I
haue read that Padstow is a corrupted word for Adlestow, and should
signifie so much as Athelstani locus, as it may well be. For it is
euident that they had in time past sundrie charters of priuilege
from Athelstane, although at this present it be well stored with
Irishmen. But to our purpose. Leland supposed this riuer to be the
same Camblan, where Arthur fought his last and fatall conflict:
for to this daie men that doo eare the ground there, doo oft plow
vp bones of a large size, and great store of armour, or else it
may be (as I rather coniecture) that the Romans had some field (or
Castra) thereabout, for not long since (and in the remembrance of
man) a brasse pot full of Romane coine was found there, as I haue
often heard. Being thus passed Padstow hauen, and after we had gone
three miles from hence, we came to Portgwin a poore fisher towne,
where I find a brooke and a péere. Then I came to Portissec aliàs
Cunilus two miles further, and found there a brooke, a péere, and
some succor for fisher boats. Next of all vnto a brooke that ran
from south east, directlie north into the Sauerne sea, and within
halfe a mile of the same laie a great blacke rocke like an Iland.
From this water to Treuenni is about a mile, where the paroch church
is dedicated to saint Simphorian, and in which paroch also Tintagell
or Dundagie castell standeth, which is a thing inexpugnable for
the situation, and would be made with little reparations one of
the strongest things in England. For it standeth on a great high
terrible crag inuironed with the sea. There is a chappell yet
standing in the dungeon thereof, dedicated to saint Vlet. Tintagell
towne and Treuenni are not a mile in sunder.

[Sidenote: Tredwie.]
The next creeke is called Bosinni, which is a mile from Tintagell,
and to the same Tredwie water resorteth, and so they go to the sea
betwixt two hils, whereof that on the one side lieth out like an
arme or cape, and maketh the fashion of an hauenet or peere, whither
shiplets sometime doo resort for succour. A frier of late daies
tooke vpon him to make an hauen at this place, but in vaine. There
lie also two blacke rocks as Ilets, at the west northwest point,
or side of this creeke, the one (sauing that a little gut dooth
part them) ioining with the other, and in these by all likelihood
is great store of gulles. I can not tell whether this be the water
that runneth by Boscastell or not, but if it be not, then haue I
[Sidenote: Boscastell.]
this description of the latter. Boscastell créeke that lieth east
of Tintagell, is but a small thing, running at the most not aboue
two miles into the land, yet it passeth by foure townes, whereof
the first is called Lesneth, the second saint Juliet, the third
Minster, and the fourth Boscastell or Bushcastell, as some men doo
pronounce it.

[Sidenote: Bede.]
In Bede baie I find the Bedewater, whose chiefe head is not farre
[Sidenote: Lancels.]
from Norton. Thence running to Stratton, it receiueth the Lancels
rill before it come at Norham. And here also it crosseth another
whose head is east of saint Marie wijke, from whence it runneth by
Wolston and Whalesborow, and thence into the sea betweene Efford
and Plough hill. And thus much of the waters that lie betweene the
point of Cornewall, and the Hartland head vpon the north side of
Cornewall. Now let vs doo the like with those that remaine of
Deuonshire, whereo the said Hartland is the verie first point in
this our poeticall voiage. Hauing therefore brought Hartland point
on our backs, we come next of all to Barstable bar, and so into
the hauen, whereinto two principall streams doo perpetuallie vnburden
their chanels.

[Sidenote: Ocus.]
The first and more westerlie of these is called Ocus, whose head
is not farre west of the head of Darnt, and Loth in Darntmore.
Rising therefore in the aforesaid place, it runneth northwest to
Snorton, and so to Okehampton, beneath which towne it méeteth with
an other water comming from southeast, & riseth not much west from
the head of Tawe. From hence it goeth to Stow Exborne, Moonke
[Sidenote: Tanridge.]
Okington, & Iddesleie, where it taketh in the Tanridge a verie
pretie streamelet, whose issue is not full a mile by east from the
[Sidenote: Turrege.]
head of Thamar, thrée miles by north east from Hartland. Comming
therefore by west and east Putford, Bulworthie, Bockington, Newton,
and Shebbor, it receiueth a forked rill that runneth from ech side
of Bradworthie by Sutcombe, Treborow, Milton, & so to Thornebirie,
where méeting with an other forked water (whereof one head comming
from Dunsland, ioineth with the other north of Cockbirie) it goeth
[Sidenote: Buckland.]
with speed into the Tanridge water. After this confluence it runneth
on to Shéepewash (by west whereof falleth in the Buckland water
from by north) thence to high Hainton, and so to Haitherlaie, north
wherof it taketh in a rill from by south, and endeth his race at
Iddesleie, by ioining with the Oke. Hence then the Ocus hasteth to
Dowland, and betwéene it and Doulton, receiueth one rill from by
east, as it dooth an other betwéene Doulton and Marton from by
west, and so procéeding on with his course, it commeth east of
Torrington the lesse, and taking in a water at east, that runneth
from thrée heads (by Wollie parke) betweene which Combe and Roughborow
[Sidenote: Langtrée.]
are situat, it descendeth to Torington the more, and meeting with
[Sidenote: Were or Ware.]
the Langtrée water on the one side, and the Ware brooke on the
other, it procéedeth to Bediford, crossing a rill by the waie that
commeth vnto it betwéene Annarie & Littham. From Bediford bridge
it goeth without anie increase to Westleie, Norham, Appledoure,
and so into the hauen.

[Sidenote: Taw.]
The Taw of both is the more noble water, notwithstanding that his
hauen be barred with sand; and thereby dangerous, and hath most
rils descending into his chanell. Howbeit, by these two is all the
hart of Deuonshire well watered on the northside of the moores.
The Tawy riseth directlie at south west of Throwlie, and north of
the head of Darnt, or (as Leland saith) in Exmore south east from
Barstable. From thence also it runneth to Sele, South Taueton,
Cockatre, Bath, Northtaueton, Ashridge, Colridge, and soone after
[Sidenote: Bowmill.]
receiueth the Bowmill créeke, wherof one head riseth at Bow, the
other at Mill, and meeting beneth Bishops Morchard, they fall into
the Taw north of Nimeth Rowland, as I haue beene informed. From
hence then it runneth by Edgeforth, to Chimligh, by south whereof
it méeteth with a rill comming downe of two heads from about
[Sidenote: Moulebraie.]
Rakenford, by Wetheridge and Chawleie. Thence it goeth to Burrington,
and Chiltenholtwood, and there taketh in the Moulebraie water
consisting of two in one chanell, wherof the Moll dooth rise aboue
north Moulton, and comming to Moulton receiueth another rill running
from Molland, and soone after the second that growing by two brookes
(the head of one being at Knawston, and of the other west of
Crokeham, and both vniting themselues beneath Mariston) dooth fall
into the same yer long also, and so go togither till it crosse the
[Sidenote: Braie.]
Braie, which (being the second of the two that maketh the Moulebraie)
riseth at Braie, commeth by Buckland, and south of Holtwood dooth
make his confluence with Taw. Being past the wood, it goeth on to
Brightleie hall, Taueton, Tauestocke & Berstable, sometime a pretie
walled towne with foure gates, but now a little thing; and such in
déed, as that the suburbes thereof are greater than it selfe. I
suppose that the name of this towne in the British speach was
Abertaw, bicause it stood toward the mouth of Taw, and Berdnesse
pronounced short (as I gesse) for Abernesse. As for Staple, it is
an addition for a market, & therefore hath nothing to doo in the
proper name of the towne. King Athelstane is taken here for the
chiefe priuileger of the towne. This is also worthie to be noted
hereof, that the houses there are of stone, as most are in all the
good townes thereabout.

But to proceed with our purpose. Beneath this towne there falleth
in a water that hath one head néere about Challacombe, & another
at east Downe, whereof this descending by Stoke riuer, and the
other by Sherwell, they vnite themselues within thrée miles of
Berstaple. Soone after also it taketh in another that descendeth
[Sidenote: Doneham.]
from Bitenden by Ashford, and the last of all east of saint Anthonies
chappell, named the Doneham, bicause one head is at west Done, and
the other at Ham, both of them méeting west of Ash. And thus is
Taue described, which is no great water nor quicke streame, as may
appéere in Low water marke at Berstable and yet is it a pretie
riueret. This also is worthie to be noted thereof, that it receiueth
no brooke from by west, whereof I would somewhat maruell, if Taurige
were not at hand.

Being past the Taue, Cride baie and Bugpoint aliàs Bagpoint, we go
by More baie, Morstone aliàs Mortstone, and then toward the northeast,
till we come by a créekelet to Ilfare combe, & so to Combe Marton,
whereat (I meane ech of them) are sundrie créekes of salt water,
but not serued with anie fresh that I as yet doo heare of. Marrie
there is betwéene Martinbow & Trensow, a créeke that hath a
[Sidenote: Paradine.]
backewater, which descendeth from Parracombe (so farre as I call
to mind named Parradine becke) but the greatest of all is betweene
[Sidenote: Orus.]
Linton and Connisberie called Ore, which riseth in Summersetshire
in Exmore (east of Hore oke, more than a mile) and going by Owre,
falleth into the sea betwéene Linton and Conisberie, so that the
whole race thereof amounteth in and out to an eight miles, as I
[Sidenote: The bredth of Deuonshire & Cornewall.]
haue heard reported. Thus haue I finished the discourse of the
waters of Deuonshire, whose breadth in this place from hence
ouerthwart to the Checkstones in the mouth of Ex, on the south side
of the Ile, is eight and thirtie miles or vnder fortie, and so much
likewise is it from Plimmouth to Hartland point, but the broadest
part there commeth to six and thirtie miles, whereas the broadest
part of Cornewall doth want two miles of fortie.

Being past the aforesaid limits of the counties we came to
[Sidenote: Loch.]
Portlochbaie, whither commeth a water named Loch that descendeth
[Sidenote: Durus.]
from Stokepero, Lucham and Portloch without increase. Thence to
Dunsteir brooke, which runneth from about Wootton, and Courtneie
by Tunbercombe and Dunsteir, then to another that commeth west of
[Sidenote: Vacetus.]
Old Cliffe, leauing a parke on the west side, next of all to Watchet
water, whereof one head commeth from the Quantocke hils south of
Bickualer by Westquantocke head, and almost at Doniford, receiueth
[Sidenote: Williton.]
the Williton becke, then to east Quantocke brooke (omitting a
[Sidenote: Doddington.]
créeket) & next of all to Doddington water, that goeth by Holford,
Alfoxton, and afterward into the sea. From hence we go by Bottesall
point, to Stert point, where two noble riuers doo make their
confluence, which I will seuerallie describe, as to my purpose
apperteineth.

[Sidenote: Iuelus.]
The first of these is called the Iuell, or (as I find it in an
ancient writer) Yoo, who saith that the riuer Yoo dooth runne from
Ilchester to Bridgewater, and so into the sea. It riseth aboue
Oburne, and at Shirburne receiueth a water, whereof Leland saith
[Sidenote: The seuen sisters.]
thus. There are seuen springs in an hill called the seuen sisters,
north east from Shireburne, which gather into one bottome, & come
into the Mere. Another brooke likewise commeth by Heidon from
Puscandell, three miles from thence by flat east, betwixt the parke
and the Mere full so great as the streame of the Mere, and ioining
at the lower mill of Shireburne, with the Mere water, it is not
long yer it fall into the Euill. Thence our Euill goeth on towards
Glasen Bradford, and yer it come there taketh in a forked rill from
by south, descending from about west Chelburie and Chetnall in
Dorsetshire, beneath which towne the other head falleth into the
same, so that they run foorth by Bearhaggard and Thorneford (till
they méet with the Iuell) and so to Clifton, Euill a proper market
[Sidenote: Cade.]
towne, Trent, Mutford, Ashinton, and east of Limminton it méeteth
with the Cade that runneth from Yarlington, by north Cadbirie, and
soone after crossing a rill also from by east, that commeth from
Blackeford by Compton, it hasteth to south Cadbirie, Sparkeford,
Queenes Camell, west Camell, and so into Iuell, which runneth on
to Kimmington, Ilchester, Ilbridge, long Sutton, and yer it come
at Langport, taketh in two famous waters in one chanell, next of
all to be remembred before I go anie further. The first of all
[Sidenote: Parret.]
these riseth southeast betwéene the Parrets (where it is called
Parret water) and goeth to Crokehorne, and at Meriot taketh in a
brooke from the east, which consisteth of two courses vnited at
Bowbridge, whereof the one descendeth from Pen by Hasilburie, the
other from aboue the thrée Chenocks, as I doo vnderstand.

From hence also they go as one with the Parret water, toward south
Pederton (taking in at east a becke comming from Hamden hill) thence
[Sidenote: Ill.]
to Pederton, Lambrooke, Thorneie bridge, and Muchelneie where it
méeteth with the second called Ill or Ilus, whose head is aboue
Chellington, & comming downe from thence by Cadworth, before it
come at Dunniet, it taketh in a rill that runneth by Chascombe and
Knoll. Thence leauing Ilmister on the east side, it meeteth with
another from by east, descending from about Whitlakington. Then it
[Sidenote: Ilton.]
goeth to Pokington (where it crosseth the Ilton water by west) next
to Ilbruers, and there it ioineth with a rillet that riseth by west
at Staple, and runneth by Bicknell and Abbats Ilie, and after this
confluence goeth on toward Langport. And here after some mens
opinion, the Iuell looseth his name, and is called Parret: but this
coniecture cannot hold, sith in the old writers it is called Iuell,
till it fall into the sea. Neuerthelesse, how soeuer this matter
standeth, being past Langport, it goeth by Awber toward saint
Anthonies, where it méeteth with the Tone next of all to be described.

[Sidenote: Tone.]
The Tone issueth at Clatworthie, and goeth by west of Wiuelscombe,
to Stawleie, Ritford, Runton, Wellington and Bradford, beneath
which it taketh in a faire water comming from Sanford Combe,
Elworthie, Brunt Rafe, Miluerton, Oke and Hilfarens. After this
confluence also it runneth to Helebridge, and there below méeteth
with one water that runneth by Hawse, Hethford, and Norton, then
another from Crokeham by bishops Slediard, and the third & fourth
at Taunton, that descendeth from Kingston by north, and another by
south that riseth about Pidmister. And thus is the Tone increased,
which goeth from Taunton to Riston, Crech, Northcurrie, Ling, and
[Sidenote: Chare or Care.]
so by Anthonie into the Iuell, that after this confluence méeteth
yer long with the Chare, a pretie riuer that commeth by east from
Northborow, by Carleton, Badcare, Litecare, Somerton, Higham, Audrie
moore, Audrie, and Michelsborow. From whence going on betweene
[Sidenote: Peder.]
Quéenes moore and North moore, it receiueth one brooke called Peder
from by southwest, that runneth through Pederton parke and North
moore; and likewise another that passeth by Durleie, yer it doo
come at Bridgewater. From Bridgewater it goeth by Chilton directlie
northwest, and then turning flat west, it goeth northward towards
[Sidenote: Camington.]
the sea, taking in two waters by the waie, whereof one runneth by
Coripole & Camington, and beareth the name of Camington, the other
[Sidenote: Brier.]
by Siddington and Comage, and then receiuing the Brier before it
come at Start point, they fall as one into the Ocean, whereof let
this suffice for the description of the Iuell, whose streame dooth
water all the west part of Summersetshire and leaueth it verie
fruitfull.

[Sidenote: Brier.]
The Brier, Bruer, or Bréer, riseth of two waters, wherof one is in
[Sidenote: _Leland_ writeth the first Brieuelus and the second
Mellodunus, or the Milton water.]
Selwood forest, & commeth downe by Bruecombe, Bruham, and Bruton.
The other which Leland nameth Mellos, is northest of Staffordell
towne, and going by the same, it runneth by Redlinch, to Wike;
where it méeteth with the other head, and thence go on as one to
[Sidenote: Dulis.]
Awnsford, Alford (where it taketh in a water called Dulis from by
north that riseth néere Dolting, and commeth by Euerchurch parke)
then to the Lidfords, Basborow wood, the Torhill, Pont perilous
(whereinto they fable that Arthur being wounded to death did throw
Calibur his sword) by Glastenburie and so into the Méere. Beside
[Sidenote: Sowaie or Stowaie.]
this riuer there are two other also that fall into the said Méere,
whereof the one called Sowaie commeth from Créechurch parke, and
[Sidenote: Cos.]
Pulton by Hartlacke bridge, the other named Cos or the Coscombe
water, from aboue Shepton, Mallet (which east of Wike taketh in a
water comming from Welles) by Wike, Gedneie, and so into the Méere.
Finallie, returning all into one chanell, it runneth to Burtlehouse,
and soone after diuiding it selfe, one arme goeth by Bastian aliàs
Brent bridge, to High bridge, leauing Huntspill a market towne by
southwest, the other by Marke to Rokes bridge, Hebbes passage, and
so into the sea, leauing a faire Iland, wherin beside Brentmarsh
are seuen or eight townes, of whose names I haue no knowledge.

Now as touching the water that commeth from Welles, which falleth
(as I said) into the Coscombe water on the right hand of the Cawseie;
you shall vnderstand that as manie springs are in Wels, so the
chiefe of them is named Andres well, which riseth in a medow plat
not farre from the east end of the cathedrall church, and afterward
[Sidenote: Milton.]
[Sidenote: Golafer.]
goeth into the Coscombe, in such place as I haue noted. Leland
speaketh of the Milton & Golafer waters, which should fall likewise
into the Brier: but whether those be they whereof the one riseth
aboue Staffordell, and in the descent runneth by Shipton, Pitcombe,
and so to Awnsford on the one side, as the other dooth rise betwéene
Batcombe and Vpton noble on the other halfe; or vnto whether of
them either of these names are seuerallie to be attributed: as yet
I doo not read.

[Sidenote: Axe. 2.]
The second Axe which commeth by Axe towne in old time called Vexa,
issueth out of Owkie hole, from whence it goeth by Owkie towne,
[Sidenote: The Chederbrooke, driueth twelue miles within a quarter of
a mile of his head.]
afterward meeting with the Chederbrooke that commeth from the Cheder
rocks, wherein is an hole in old time called Carcer Aeoli, wherof
much hath béene written & surmised past credit. It runneth by Were,
Ratcliffe, and after a little compasse into the northeast branch
of the aforesaid riuer last described, betweene Rokes bridge and
[Sidenote: Bane.]
Hebbes passage, as I haue beene informed. From the fall of Axe we
come to an other called Bane, northeast of Woodspring, whose head
[Sidenote: Artro.]
is about Banwell parke, or else in Smaldon wood. Then to an other,
and to the third, called Artro, which riseth about Litton, and
going by the Artroes, Vbbeie, Perribridge (receiuing a rill yer it
come thither from by south) beneath Cungesbirie, or (as I learne)
betwéene Kingston and Laurence Wike, it meeteth with the sea.

[Sidenote: Sottespill.]
Sottespill water riseth betwéene Cheueleie and Naileseie, howbeit
[Sidenote: Cleueden.]
it hath no increase before it come into the sea at Sottespill, more
than the next vnto it, which is named Cleueden water, of a certeine
towne neere to the fall thereof. It riseth southeast of Barrow,
[Sidenote: Auon. 3.]
goeth by Burton Naileseie, and so vnto Cleuedon. The Auon, commonlie
called the third Auon, is a goodlie water, and growne to be verie
famous by sundrie occasions, to be particularlie touched in our
description of Bristow. Yet thus much will I note héere thereof as
a rare accident, how that in king Edgars daies, the verie same
yeare that the old monasterie of Euesham fell downe by itselfe, a
porpasse was taken therein neere to the said monasterie, and neuer
anie before or since that time heard of to haue béene found in that
[Sidenote: Sturgion taken in Rochester water.]
streame. And euen so not manie yeares before I first wrote this
treatise, a sturgion was taken aliue in Rochester streame, which
the bishop gaue vnto your honor, and you would as gladlie haue sent
it to the quéenes maiestie, if she might haue béene presented
withall aliue as it was taken. Certes both these rare occurrents
gaue no lesse occasion of strange surmises to the inhabitants of
both places, than the blockes of Brerton, when they appeare, doo
vnto that familie; of which the report goeth that they are neuer
séene but against some mischéefe or other to befall vnto that house.
But how farre am I gone from my purpose?

The Auon therefore riseth in the verie edge of Tetburie, and goeth
by long Newton to Brokenton, Whitchurch, and Malmsburie, where it
receiueth two waters, that is to saie, one from by west comming by
Foreleie and Bromleham, which runneth so néere to the Auon in the
west suburbe of Malmsburie, that the towne thereby is almost made
an Iland. Another from Okeseie parke by Hankerton, Charleton, and
Garesden. After this confluence it hasteth to Cole parke, then
goeth it toward the southeast, till it méet with a water comming
from southwest (betwéene Hullauington and Bradfield) by Aston: and
soone after with another at the northside from Binall by Wootton
Basset (through the parke to Gretenham, and Idouer bridges) and
after the confluence to Dauntseie, Segar, Sutton, Christmalford,
Auon, Calwaies house, and then to west Tetherton. Beneath this
towne also it taketh in a water increased by two brookes, whereof
one comming from Cleue by Hilmarton, Whitleie house and Bramble
(and there receiuing another that commeth by Calne) passeth on by
Stanlie into the Auon, which from thencefoorth goeth to Chippenham,
[Sidenote: Cosham.]
Rowdon, Lekham, and then receiuing Cosham water, goeth to Lacocke,
Melsham, and yer it come at Whaddon, crosseth two other in one
chanell, whereof one riseth about Brumham house, and goeth to Sene,
the other about the Diuizes, and from thence runneth to Potterne
wood, Creeke wood, Worton, Maston, Bucklington, and ioining with
the other aboue Litleton, they run by Semmington, and north of
Whaddon aforesaid into the maine streame, whereof I now intreat.
From hence our Auon runneth to Stauerton, and southwest of that
[Sidenote: Were.]
towne méeteth with the Were that commeth from Vpton by Dilton,
[Sidenote: Westbirie vnder the plaine, neuer without a théefe or twaine.]
Brooke parke (there crossing a rill called Bisse from Westbirie
vnder the plaine) then to north Bradleie, Trubridge, and so into
Auon that goeth from thence to Bradford, & within a mile or
thereabouts, before it come at Freshford, it méeteth with the Frome,
whose description dooth insue.

[Sidenote: Frome.]
The Frome riseth in the east part of Mendip hils, and from thence
runneth by Astwijc, the Cole pits, Lie vnder Mendip, Whateleie,
[Sidenote: Nonneie.]
Elmesbridge, and soone after taketh in the Nonneie water, comming
from Nonneie castell, thence to Walles and Orcharleie bridge, where
it receiueth a pretie brooke descending from Frome Selwood west of
Brackleie, increased with sundrie rils, whereof two come out of
Selwood forrest (and one of them from the Fratrie) another out of
Long lead parke, from Horningsham, and the fourth from Cosleie.
Hence our Frome goeth to Lullington, Beckington, Farleie castell,
[Sidenote: Silling.]
Bord and Fresh foord, and taking in the Silling brooke, falleth
into the Auon beneath Bradford, and east of Freshford. From thence
going beneath Stoke, it receiueth on the left hand a water comming
from southwest, increased by sundrie brookes, whereof one commeth
from Camelet by Litleton, and Dankerton, the other from Stone Eston,
Midsummer Norton, by Welston, Rodstocke, Wrigleton, Foscot, and
Wellow, and there (taking in a rill from Phillips Norton) it goeth
by Clauerton to Hampton, and there it méeteth with another water
comming from Barthford, whose head is at Litleton from whence it
runneth by west Kineton to Castell combe (where it ioineth with a
rill rising by north from Litleton drue) and thence commeth south
to Slaughtenford, Haselburie, Box, Baithford, and so into the Auon,
which turning plaine west, hasteth to Baithwijc, and (meeting with
another in his passage from Caldaston) to Bath, the Tiuertons, and
Coston.

Héere also it taketh in a rill by the waie from Markesburie by
Wilmerton and Newton, and then going on to Sawford, it méeteth with
[Sidenote: Swinford.]
one rill soone west of Northstocke, named Swinford, and another by
[Sidenote: Swinford parteth Summerset & Glocestershires in sunder.]
Bitton, from Durhain by Wike, and so procéedeth still holding on
his way to Caimsham, a towne in Summerset shire (so called of Caim
an English saint, by whose praiers, as the countrie once beléeued,
all the adders, snakes and serpents were turned into stone, their
formes reserued, and for a certeine space of ground about the said
towne, and whereof some store as yet is to be found in those quaries.
But this miracle is so true as the historie of Hilda, or that S.
Patrike should chase all venemous creatures out of Italie, with
his staffe; or that maid Radegund should driue the crowes to the
pound, which did annoie hir corne while she went vnto a chappell
to heare & sée a masse) where it crosseth the Chute, which issueth
at Winford, and goeth by bishops Chue to Penford, and there receiueth
the Clue comming from Cluton, and from thence to Chute, & so into
the Auon. The Auon likewise after all these confluences goeth to
Briselton, and so to Bristow, beneath which it receiueth a rill on
each side (wherof one commeth from about Stoke lodge in Glocestershire,
being a faire water and running by Acton, Frampton, Hambroch,
Stapleton, and through Bristow, the other by south from Dundreie
hill and towne, by Bisport and Bedminster) and so descending yet
lower, goeth to Rawneham passage and Clifton, then by S. Vincents
rocke and Laie, next of all to Crocampill, and finallie into the
sea, whither all waters by nature doo resort.

[Sidenote: Alderleie.]
Beside this water, Leland maketh mention of Alderleie brooke, which
in some ancient records is also called Auon, and runneth by Barkeleie.
[Sidenote: Douresleie.]
In like maner he talketh of Douresleie becke, whose principall head
[Sidenote: Torworth.]
is in Douresleie towne: howbeit he saith no thing of it more, than
that it serueth sundrie tucking lucking milles, and goeth by
Tortworth or foure miles further, before it come at the Sauerne.
Finallie, making mention of an excellent quarrie of hard stone
about Douresleie, he telleth of the Tortworth becke, that runneth
within a flight shot of Barkeleie towne, and falleth on the left
hand into Sauerne marches, taking with all the Alderleie or Auon,
except I mistake his meaning, which may soone be doone among his
confused notes.




THE DESCRIPTION OF THE SAUERNE, & SUCH WATERS AS DISCHARGE THEMSELUES
INTO THE SAME.

CHAP. XIII.


[Sidenote: Sauerne.]
The Sauerne which Ptolomie calleth Sabriana, Tacitus Sabrina,
diuideth England or that part of the Iland, which sometime was
called Lhoegres from Cambria, so called of Camber, the second sonne
of Brute, as our histories doo report. But now that region hight
Wales, of the Germane word Walsh, whereby that nation dooth vse to
call all strangers without respect of countrie. This riuer tooke
the name of a certeine ladie, called Habren or Hafren, base daughter
to Locrinus begotten vpon Estrildis daughter to Humber otherwise
called Cumbrus or Vmar, and for which some write Chonibrus king of
Scithia, that sometime inuaded this Island, and was ouerthrowne
here in the daies of this Locrinus, as shall be shewed at hand:
although I suppose rather that this ladie was called Ine, and that
the word Sabrina is compounded of Aber and Ine, and the letter S
added "Propter euphoniam:" for the mouth or fall of euerie riuer
in the British speech is called Aber, whereby Aber Ine is so much
to saie as, the fall of Ine. But let vs returne againe to our
discourse of Humber or Vmar, which is worthie to be remembred.

For after the death of Locrinus, it came to passe that Guendolena
his wife ruled the kingdome in the nonage of hir sonne: and then
getting the said Estrildis and Habren hir daughter into hir hands,
she drowned them both in this riuer. And in perpetuall remembrance
of hir husbands disloialtie towards hir, she caused the streame to
be called Habren of the yoong ladie, for which the Romans in processe
of time for readinesse and mildnesse of pronunciation, wrote Sabrina,
and we at this time doo pronounce the Sauerne. Of the drowning of
the said Abren also I find these verses insuing:

                  In fluuium praecipitatur Abren,
  Nomen Abren, fluuio de virgine, nomen eidem
    Nomine corrupto deinde Sabrina datur.

But to returne to our Sauerne. It falleth into the maine sea betweene
Wales and Cornewall, which is and shall be called the Sauerne sea,
so long as the riuer dooth keepe hir name. But as the said streame
in length of course, bountie of water, and depth of chanell commeth
farre behind the Thames: so for other commodities, as trade of
merchandize, plentie of cariage, & store of all kind of fish, as
salmon, trouts, breames, pikerell, tench, perch, &c: it is nothing
at all inferiour or second to the same. Finallie, there is nothing
to be discommended in this riuer, but the opennesse thereof in
manie places to the weather, whereby sundrie perils oft ouertake
such as fish or saile in small vessels on the same.

The head of this noble streame is found in the high mounteines of
south Wales called Helennith or Plim limmon; in English, the blacke
mounteins, or moore heads, from whence also the Wie and the Rhidoll
do procéed: and therefore these thrée waters are commonlie called
the thrée sisters, and haue in latitude two and fiftie degrees ten
minutes, in longitude fiftéene and fiftie, as the description
inferreth. So soone as it is out of the ground, it goeth southeastward,
till it come within a mile of Laundlos, where it receiueth a chanell
from by south southwest, called the Dulas, which commeth thereinto
on the south side, & southwest of Lan Idlos. It riseth (as it should
[Sidenote: Brueham.]
séeme) of diuerse heads in the edge of Radnorshire, and taking in
sundrie small rilles, it meeteth at the last with the Brueham
[Sidenote: Clewdogh.]
brooke, and so they go togither till they fall into the Sauerne.
Beneath Lan Idlos it taketh in the Clewdogh, from northwest, a
water producted by the influence of foure pretie brookes, whereof
[Sidenote: Bacho.]
[Sidenote: Dungum.]
[Sidenote: Lhoid.]
one is called Bacho, another Dungum comming out of lin Glaslin,
[Sidenote: Bigga.]
the third Lhoid rising in lin Begilin, and the most southerlie
[Sidenote: Couine.]
called Bigga. After which confluence our Sauerne procéedeth on by
Berhlaid toward Landiman, taking in by the waie, on the east side
[Sidenote: Carnon.]
[Sidenote: Taran.]
the Couine, thence to Cairfuse castell, where it meeteth with the
[Sidenote: Hawes.]
Carnon, and the Taran both in one chanell, and going not far from
[Sidenote: Dulesse. 2.]
the aforesaid fortresse. After this it crosseth the Hawes on the
north halfe beneath Aberhawes, next of all the Dulesse that riseth
in the edge of Radnorshire, and méeteth with it before it come at
Newton in Powisie, otherwise called Trenewith, as I find in British
language. Being come to Trenewith, I cannot eschue (right honorable)
to giue one note, as by the waie, touching the originall of my
ladie your bedfellowes ancestrie, which came from hence, & were
surnamed Newtons onelie, for that the grandfather of sir John Newton
either dwelled or was borne there: otherwise the right name is
Caradoc, for which some doo corruptlie write Cradocke, respecting
rather the shortnesse of pronuntiation, than the true orthographie
and writing of the word. Certes the Caradockes haue béene, and yet
are a linage of great honor, antiquitie, and seruice; their lands
also sometime belonged (for the most part) to the noble Connoanies
of Summersetshire: but in what order they descended to the Newtons,
in good sooth I cannot tell. But to procéed with our riuer, which
being past Newton, runneth foorth by Landilouarne, and so foorth
[Sidenote: Mule.]
on till it come to the fall of the Mule, whose head is in the edge
of Radnor also, and thereto his passage by Kerie and Lanmereiwijc.
[Sidenote: Kenlet.]
[Sidenote: Camalet.]
[Sidenote: Tate.]
After this also it procéedeth further till it meet with the Kenlet
or the Camalet, which taketh in also the Tate or Tadbrooke water
rising out of the hilles a mile from Bishops towne, the whole course
thereof being about seauen miles from the head (as I haue often
heard.) Of this also I find two descriptions, whereof one I borrow
out of Leland, who saith that it is a pretie brooke, running in
the vale by Mountgomerie, and comming within halfe a mile of the
place where Chirbirie priorie stood, it falleth into the Sauerne
about a mile from thence. Of the rilles (saith he) that run from
the hilles thorough Mountgomerie, which are a mile from the Sauerne
[Sidenote: Lan Idlos.]
shore, and likewise of the Lan Idlos brooke that méeteth withall
within foure miles of the head, I speake not, but thinke it sufficient
to touch those of some estimation, onelie leauing the rest to such
as maie hereafter deale with things, more particularlie as time
and trauell maie reueale the truth to them. And hitherto Leland,
whose words I dare not alter. But another noteth this Camalet or
Kenlet to run by More, Liddiom, Sned, Churchstocke, Chirbirie,
Walcote, and Winsbirie, and so into the Sauerne.

From hence then, and after this confluence it goeth on by Fordon,
Leighton, and Landbreuie toward Meluerleie, and there it méeteth
[Sidenote: Tanet.]
[Sidenote: Peuereie or Murnewie.]
with sundrie waters in one chanell, whereof the one called the
Tanet is a verie pretie water (whereinto the Peuereie or Murneweie
doth fall, which descendeth from the hilles by west of Matrafall
[Sidenote: Auernie.]
not farre from Lhan Filin) the other Auernie, and ioining beneath
[Sidenote: Mordant.]
Abertannoth, or aboue Lannamonach neere unto the ditch of Offa, it
is not long yer they méet with the Mordant brooke, and there loose
their names so soone as they ioine and mix their waters with it.
The head of the Mordant issueth out of the Lanuerdan hilles, where
diuerse saie, that the parish church of crosse Oswald or Oswester
sometimes stood. Certes, Oswester is thirtéene miles northwest from
Shrewesburie, and conteineth a mile within the walles. It hath in
like sort foure suburbs or great stréetes, of which one is called
Stratlan, another Wuliho, the third Beterich, wherein are one
hundred and fortie barns standing on a row belonging to the citizens
or burgesses, and the fourth named the Blackegate stréet, in which
[Sidenote: Simons becke.]
are thirtie barns mainteined for corne and haie. There is also a
brooke running thorough the towne by the crosse, comming from Simons
well, a bow shoote without the wall; & going vnder the same betweene
Thorowgate & Newgate, running vnder the Blacke gate. There is
[Sidenote: Bederich.]
another, ouer whose course the Baderikes or Bederich gate standeth,
and therefore called Bederich brooke. The third passeth by the
Willigate or Newgate, & these fall all togither with the Crosse
brooke, a mile lower by south into the Mordant that runneth (as I
said) by Oswester. From hence also it goeth to Mordant towne, and
betwéene Landbreuie and Meluerleie doth fall into the Sauerne.
After this our principall streame goeth to Sheauerdon castell,
Mountford, and Bicton chappell: and here it receiueth a water on
the left hand, that riseth of two heads, whereof one is aboue
Merton, the other at Ellismere, and ioining betweene Woodhouses &
Bagleie, the confluence runneth on by Radnall, Halton, Teddesmer,
Roiton, Baschurch, Walford, Grafton, Mitton, and so into the Sauerne.
From hence it runneth to Fitz, Eton, or Leiton, Barwijc, vpper
Rossall, Shelton, and so to Shrewsburie, where it crosseth the Mele
water, whose head (as I heare) is said to be in Weston.

[Sidenote: Mele.]
The Mele therefore rising at Weston, goeth by Brocton, Worthen,
[Sidenote: Haberlie.]
Aston Pigot, Westleie, Asterleie, and at Lea it méeteth with the
Haberleie water that commeth downe by Pontesford and Aunston. After
this confluence also it runneth to Newenham & Crokemele, there
taking in a rill on the other side that descendeth by Westburie
and Stretton, & thence going on to Hanwood, Noball, Pulleie,
Bracemele, and Shrewesburie, it falleth (as I said) into the open
Sauerne. From hence our Sauerne hasteth to Vffington, Preston, and
betwéene Chilton and Brampton taketh in the Terne, a faire streame
and worthie to be well handled; if it laie in me to performe it.
This riuer riseth in a mere beside Welbridge parke, néere vnto
Ternemere village in Staffordshire, From whence it runneth by the
parkes side to Knighton, Norton, Betton, and at Draiton Hales
crosseth with a water comming from about Adbaston (where maister
[Sidenote: Terne.]
Brodocke dwelleth) and runneth by Chippenham and Amming: so that
the Terne on the one side, and this brooke on the other, doo inclose
[Sidenote *: See Hen. 6. pag. 649.]
a great part of [*] Blore heath, where a noble battell was somtime
purposed betwéene king Henrie the sixt, and the duke of Yorke: but
it wanted execution.

But to procéed. After this confluence, it runneth to Draiton Hales,
Ternehill bridge: and yer long taking in a rill from Sandford by
Blechleie, it goeth to Stoke Allerton, Peplaw, and Eaton, where it
crosseth with a brooke that riseth about Brinton, and going by
Higham, Morton, the great Mere, Forton, Pilson, Pickstocke, Keinton,
Tibberton, and Bolas, it ioineth with the said Terne not farre from
Water Vpton. Thence passing to Crogenton, it méeteth with another
brooke that commeth from Chaltwen Aston, by Newport, Longford,
Aldneie, and so through the Wilde moore to Kinsleie & Sléepe, and
finallie into the Terne, which hasteth from thence to Eston bridge,
[Sidenote: Roden.]
and néere vnto Walcote taketh in the Roden. This water riseth at
Halton in Cumbermere lake: and comming to Ouenleie, crosseth a rill
from Cowlemere by Leniall. Thence it goeth to Horton, and (ioining
with another rill beneath Nonlaie that commeth from Midle) runneth
on to Wen, Aston, there crossing a rill beneath Lacon hall from
Prées ward, and so to Lée, Befford, Stanton, Morton, Shabrée,
Painton, Roden, Rodington, and then into Terne, that runneth from
thence by Charlton, Vpton, Norton, Barwijc, Acham, and so into the
Sauerne two miles beneath Shrewesburie (as I wéene.)

Thus haue I described the Terne in such wise as my simple skill is
able to performe. Now it resteth that I proceed on (as I maie) with
the Sauerne streame, with which, after this former confluence, it
goeth vnto Roxater or Roxcester, Brampton, Eaton vpon Sauerne,
[Sidenote: Euerne.]
Draiton, where it ioineth with the Euerne that runneth from
Frodesleieward by Withiall and Pitchford, Cresfedge, Garneston,
[Sidenote: Wenlocke or Rhe.]
Leighton, and betwéene the two Bildasses crosseth the Rhe or Wenlocke
water, and so goeth on to Browsleie and Hoord parke, where it
vniteth it selfe with another brooke to be described in this place,
whilest the Sauerne rests, and recreates it selfe here among the
plesant bottoms.

This water ariseth aboue Tongcastell, and yer it haue run anie
great distance from the head, it méeteth with a rill comming by
Sheriffe Hales, and Staunton. Thence it goeth on to Hatton, Roiton,
and there crossing another from Woodhouses, comming by Haughton
[Sidenote: Worfe.]
and Euelin, it procéedeth to Beckebirie and Higford, and not omitting
here to crosse the Worfe (sometime a great streame that runneth
vnto it out of Snowdon poole) and so passeth foorth to Badger,
Acleton, Worffield: a litle from whence (about Wickin) it taketh
in another brooke into it called Churle, & so goeth on to Rindleford,
and then into Sauerne somwhat aboue Bridgenorth at Penston mill
[Sidenote: Marbrooke.]
(except mine information deceiue me.) From Bridgenorth our Sauerne
descendeth to Woodburie, Quatford, and there taking in the Marbrooke
beneath Eaton that riseth aboue Collaton, and goeth by Moruill &
Vnderton, it runneth by Didmanston, Hempton, Aueleie, & beneath in
the waie to Bargate, crosseth with a brooke comming from Vpton
parke, by Chetton, Billingsleie, and Highleie, which being admitted,
[Sidenote: Dowlesse.]
it holdeth on to Areleie, Ciarnewood parke, Hawbach and Dowlesse.
Here also it méeteth with the Dowlesse water, a pretie brooke
issuing out of the Cle hilles in Shropshire, verie high to looke
vpon, and three miles or thereabouts from Ludlow, which runneth
[Sidenote: Lempe.]
through Clebirie parke in Wire forrest, & taking withall the Lempe,
dooth fall into the Sauerne not far from Bewdleie.

But to procéed. From Bewdleie our Sauerne hasteth directlie to
[Sidenote: Stoure.]
Ribford, Areleie and Redston, and here it méeteth with a water
called Stoure, descending from Elie, or out of the ponds of Hales
Owen in Worcestershire, where it receiueth a rill from the left
hand, and another from the right, and then goeth on to Sturbridge
(taking in there the third water yer long running from Sturton
castell) then to Kniuer Whittenton, Ouerleie and Kidormister, aboue
which it crosseth one brookelet that commeth thither by Church
hill, and another beneath it that runneth by Belborow, betwixt
which two waters lieth an od peece of Staffordshire included, and
also the Cle hill. From hence the aforesaid Sauerne hasteth by
[Sidenote: Astleie.]
Redston to Shrawleie; and aboue this towne receiueth the Astleie
water, as beneath the same it dooth another. From Witleie then it
goeth on to Holt castell, and so to Grimleie, taking in thereabout
[Sidenote: Doure.]
[Sidenote: Sulwaie.]
with the Doure, and Sulwaie waters, whereof this riseth at Chadswijc,
and runneth by Stoke priorie, & Droitwich, the other aboue Chaddesleie,
and commeth by Dourdale. After this it goeth foorth vnto Worcester,
[Sidenote: Tiber.]
in old time called Cair Brangon, or Cair Frangon, where it méeteth
with the Tiber, or Tiberton water, on the right hand aboue that
citie, and beneth it neere vnto Powijc with the Temde, whose
description shall be set downe before I procéed or go anie further
with the Sauerne.

[Sidenote: Temde.]
The Temde, or (as some name it) the Tame riseth vp in Radnorshire,
out of the Melenith hilles, and soone after his issue, méeting with
a water from Withall, it runneth to Begeldie, Lanuerwaterden, and
so to Knighton, which is fine or six miles (as I heare) from his
originall. From Knighton it goeth ouer the ditch of Offa vnto
[Sidenote: Clude.]
Standish, and crossing a rill that commeth from betwéene the parke
named Clude, (and is a bound of Radnorshire) it goeth to Buckton,
Walford, and Lanuarden, where it meeteth with the Bardwell or
Berfield, and the Clun, both in one chanell, of which I find these
[Sidenote: Barfield.]
descriptions here folowing word for word in Leland. The Bardwell
[Sidenote: Clun.]
or Barfield riseth aboue New Chappell, in the honour of Clun, hard
by the ditch of Offa, and goeth by Bucknell. The Clun issueth out
of the ground betweene Lhan Vehan and Maiston, and going on by
Bucton, Cluncastell, Clundon, Purslaw, and Clunbirie, it crosseth
with a brooke that runneth along by Kempton and Brampton. Thence
going foorth by Clunbirie, Brome, Abcot and Marlow, it méeteth with
the Bardwell, and so in the Temde, not verie far from Temderton.
[Sidenote: Owke.]
I suppose that Leland calleth the Bardwell by the name of Owke,
but I will not abide by it bicause I am not sure of it. After these
confluences therefore, our Temde goeth by Trippleton, Dounton,
[Sidenote: Oneie.]
Burrington, and Broomefield, where it méeteth with the Oneie, which
is an indifferent streame, and increased with sundrie waters,
whereof I saie as followeth.

[Sidenote: Bow.]
The first of all is called the Bow. It riseth (as I learne) in the
hilles betwéene Hissington and Shelue, and from thence commeth
[Sidenote: Warren.]
downe by Lindleie and Hardwijc, where it crosseth the Warren that
issueth out of the ground about Rotlie chappell, and runneth by
Adston and Wentnor. After the confluence also going on by Choulton
[Sidenote: Queneie and Strabroke.]
and Cheinies, it taketh in the Queneie and Strabroke both in one
chanell, wherof the first riseth at Lebotwood, and commeth downe
by the Strettons, till it passe by Fellanton. The second mounteth
about Longuill, and goeth by Rushburie, Newhall, Harton, and
Alcaster, from whence it is not long yer it fall into the Queneie,
and so by Stratford into the Oneie, which hath borne that name
since the confluence of the Bow and Warren at Hardwijc, whereof I
[Sidenote: Somergill.]
spake before. Finallie, the Oneie which some call the Somergill
being thus increased, it runneth on to Hawford chappell, Oneibirie,
[Sidenote: Corue.]
Broomefield, and so into Temde, and next of all to Ludlow. The
Temde being thus brought to Ludlow, méeteth with the Corue, which
commeth thorough Coruedale from aboue Brocton by Morehouses, Shipton,
Hungerford, and a little beneath taking in a rill that commeth by
Tugford, and Brencost castell, goeth on to Corsham castell, and
there crossing another from saint Margarets Clée, it hieth to
Stanton Lacie, and so likewise to Ludlow.

From Ludlow in like sort it goeth to Ludford, the Ashfordes, little
[Sidenote: Ladwich.]
Hereford, Burrington, and at Burfford vniteth it selfe with the
Ladwich that commeth beneath Milburne stoke, from betweene Browne,
Cleehill, and Stittertons hill, to Middleton, Henleie, Ladwich,
Conam, and so into Temde, which beneath Temdbirie receiueth another
[Sidenote: Rhe.]
rill on the other side, and the second on the left hand called Rhe,
that commeth from aboue Ricton, Staterton, Hound, Nene, Clebirie,
Knighton, and then into the Temde. From hence the Temde doeth goe
by Astham, Lingridge, Shelleie Welch, Clifton, Whitburne (and
crossing a water that commeth from the Sapies) to Knightwijc and
Bradwaies. Hereabout againe it interteineth a rill that descendeth
from about Kidburie on the right hand, and goeth by Collomatherne,
Credeleie, Aufrike, and so into Temde, and then procéeding forward,
[Sidenote: Langherne.]
the said streame runneth to Braunford, and yer long (taking in the
Langherne that riseth about Martleie and passeth by Kengewijc) it
goeth to Powijc, and so into the Sauerne before it come at Wickecester.

Thus haue I brought all such streames before me that fall into the
Sauerne from the head, vntill I come to Powijc, wherof (as you may
easily perceiue) the Temde is the most excellent. Now it resteth
that I proceed with the rest of the discourse intended concerning
this our riuer. Certes, from Powijc mils which are about halfe a
mile beneth Worcester, the Sauerne runneth on to Kempseie and
Cleueld, whence after it hath crossed a brooke comming from Cowleie,
it hasteth first to Stoke, and so to Vpton, which is eleuen or
twelue miles from Glocester, whither it floweth manie times at high
tides, but yer it come there, it drowneth another fall descending
from Maluerne hilles by Blackemoore parke, & soone after the third
growing by two branches, wherof one commeth also from Maluerne hils
by little Maluerne and Welland, the other from Elderford by Pendocke
and Longdon. After these confluences in like sort, it runneth to
Bushelleie, and Tewkesburie, where it receiueth the Auon, that
followed next of all in order to be described, before I procéed
anie further in my discourse of Sauerne.

[Sidenote: Auon. 4.]
The Auon riseth at Nauesbie in the borders of Northamptonshire, a
little side hand of Gillesborow and foot of the hils whereon Nauesbie
standeth, and euen out of the church yard of the said village. From
hence it goeth to Welford, Stamford, Lilburne, Clifton, and Rugbie,
[Sidenote: Swiuethus.]
by north whereof it crosseth a water called Swift, which commeth
from aboue Kimcote, to Lutterworth, Browne ouer and Colsford. From
[Sidenote: Souus.]
thence also it goeth to Newbold, Wolston, Ruington, and betwéene
the Stonlies taketh in the Sow. This Sow is a pretie water comming
from aboue Calendon to Whitleie, and soone after méeting with a
riueret from Couentrie, which some doo call Shirburne water, it
[Sidenote: Kinell.]
goeth thence to Bagginton, where it taketh in a rill called Kinell,
as I haue read from Kenelsworth, from whence it runneth to Stonleie,
& so into the Auon. After this confluence the Auon procéedeth on
to Stonleie abbeie, Ashehow, Miluerton, Edmonds cote, and appace
to Warwijc.

But yer it come there, it méeteth from south east with two waters
in one chanell, whereof the least commeth to Marton from Bishops
[Sidenote: Leame.]
Itchington, by Herburbirie and Thorpe, where it crosseth a rill
from Southam. The other is called Leame, or Lime that descendeth
from about Helladon, or néere vnto Catesbie in Northamptonshire,
and going by Ouencote, Braunston, Lemington and Mertun, it ioineth
with the other, and then go from thence togither vnder the name of
Leame, to Hunnington, Cobbington, and so into the Auon, as I gaue
notice before. At Warwike also the Auon taketh in a water running
northwest from Groue parke. Thence it goeth on to Bereford, and
there crossing another from Shirburne, it passeth forth to Bishops
Hampton, méeting finallie with the third, from Kineton that runneth
by Walton and Charlecote. After this last rehearsed confluence, it
[Sidenote: Stoure.]
hasteth to Stretford vpon Auon, and then to Luddington ward, where
it taketh in the Stoure that riseth aboue Cherington, & whose course
from thence is such, as that being once past the head, it goeth by
Weston, and yer long crossing a water from Campden, hanging Aston,
& Todnam, it runneth to Barcheston, Aldermaston, Clifford, & so
into the Auon.

From hence then the said Auon goeth to Luddington, Burton, Bitford,
[Sidenote: Arow.]
and Cleue, and being parted from the said towne, yer it come at
Sawford, it receiueth the Arow or Aur, which rising in the blacke
hils in Worchestershire, commeth by Alchurch, Beleie parke, Ypsleie,
[Sidenote: Alne.]
Studleie, and then taking in another rill called Alne, out of
Fecknam forrest, and going by Coughton parke, it hasteth to Alcester,
Arow, Ragleie, Wheteleie, Bouington, Standford, and so into Auon,
which after this coniunction goeth to Vffenton & then to Eouesholme:
but yer it come there it receiueth two waters in one chanell,
whereof the first riseth about Willerseie, the other néere to
Buckland, and ioining beneath Badseie, they fall into Auon, vnder
[Sidenote: Pludor.]
the name of Pludor brooke, before it come to Eouesholme.

Being past Eouesholme it crosseth the Vincell, which rising out of
[Sidenote: Vincélus.]
the hils somewhere about Sudleie, runneth two miles further to
Winchelcombe, and Gretton, and taking in a rill by the waie from
Hailes, procéedeth on (going within one quarter of a mile of Hailes
abbaie) to Tuddington, or Doddington, beneath which when it hath
crossed another rill that commeth from Stanwaie, it goeth to
Warmington, Sedgeborow, and receiuing there the last on the right
hand also (as all aboue rehearsed) it falleth into the Auon, when
it is come by Hinton, vnto a towne called Hampton, or (as some doo
write it) Ampton. After this confluence the Auon goeth to Charleton,
to Crapthorne (and there taking in a rill on the left hand) to
Fladbirie wike, and almost at Persore bridge, méeteth with a branched
[Sidenote: Piddle.]
water that commeth by Piddle, whereof one head is at Alberton, an
other at Piddle. From Persore it goeth to Birlingham, and soone
after carrieng a brooke withall descending from Fakenham, by
Bradleie, Himbleton, Huddenton, Crowleie, Churchhill, Pibleton,
Besseford and Desseford, it fléeteth to Eckington, Bredon, Twining,
Mitton, and Tewkesburie, where it ioineth with the Sauerne.

Now to resume the course of the Sauerne, you shall vnderstand, that
[Sidenote: Chilus.]
from Tewkesburie it goeth to Derehirst, the How passage, and soone
after receiuing the Chiltenham water that commeth thither by
Bodenton, Sawton, and Norton, it runneth to Ashelworth, Sainthirst;
and here it parteth it selfe till it come to Glocester, where it
vniteth it selfe againe. But in the meane time the easterlie branch
receiueth a forked chanell, whereof one head is not far from Leke
Hampton, the other about Witcombe, from whence it goeth to Brockworth.
[Sidenote: Leadon.]
The other branch or arme taketh in the Leadon that commeth downe
by Preston, Dimmocke, Pantleie vpper Leadon, Leadon court, and
there taking in one rill that commeth from Linton by Areknoll, and
another beneath it from Tainton by Rudford, it falleth into the
said branch on the right side, before it come at Glocester.

The Sauerne therefore being past Glocester, it méeteth with a litle
rill on the right hand, and thence holding on his course by Elmore,
[Sidenote: Strowd.]
Minsterworth, Longneie, to Framilode, it receiueth yer it come at
this latter the Strowd brooke, which rising not farre from Side,
goeth by Massade, Edgeworth, Frampton, Strowd, and receiuing there
a water that commeth from Panneswijc Lodge, by Pittescombe on the
one side, and another from Radbridge on the other, it prosecuteth
his voiage to Stone house, Eslington, white Misen, & so toward
Framilode, where the said Strowd dooth fall into the Sauerne. After
the fall of Strowd, the Sauerne goeth from thence to Newenham, and
Arlingham, and soone after receiuing a water on each side, whereof
one commeth from Vleie by Cham and Chambridge, the other by Blackneie
and Catcombe, it goeth foorth till it méet with another water on
ech side, whereof that on the English halfe is forked, so that one
head thereof is to be found about Borwell, the other at Horton,
and méeting aboue Tortworthie, they run by Stone and Barkeleie
[Sidenote: Newarne.]
castell, and so into the Sauerne. That on the Welsh halfe is named
Newarne, which commeth from the forrest of Deane, and so into the
Sauerne.




OF SUCH WATERS AS FALL INTO THE SEA IN COMPASSE OF THE ILAND,
BETWEENE THE SAUERNE AND THE HUMBER.

CHAP. XIV.


The Sauerne being thus described, it resteth that I go forward with
the names of those that lie vpon the coast of Southwales, making
my entrie at the ferrie ouer betweene Aust in Glocestershire, and
a village on the further banke of Sauerne, not farre from Tarendacus
[Sidenote: Wie mouth.]
chappell, in the mouth of the riuer Wie, which ferrie is about
[Sidenote: Guie aliàs Wie.]
three miles ouer (saith Leland) or else my memorie dooth faile me.
This riuer Guie or Wie beginneth (as I said before) on the side of
the hilles, where the Sauerne dooth arise, and passing through
Wenceland, that is, southeast by Raiader Guie to Buelt (where the
Irwon meeteth withall) it goeth to Glasburie, Hereford, Monmouth,
and finallie into the Sauerne sea at Chepstow: for so they call
Monhafren, which seuereth Wales from Summersetshire, Deuonshire,
Cornewall: as for the Rhidoll which is the third sister, it hath
the shortest course of all, for it runneth northward, and into the
sea at Aberistwith, which is not farre off, as the writers doo
report.

Leland writing of this riuer Guie or Wie saith thus; The Wie goeth
thorough all Herefordshire by Bradwarden castell, belonging to sir
[Sidenote: Vmber a fish onelie in the Wie.]
Richard Vehan, and so to Hereford east, thence eight miles to Rosse,
a market towne in Herefordshire: and in this riuer be vmbers,
otherwise called grailings. It is also found by common experience,
that the salmon of this riuer is in season, when the like fish to
be found in all other riuers is abandoned and out of vse; wherof
we of the east parts doo not a little maruell. But let vs not staie
vpon these descriptions, sith an other is come to my hand more
exact than either of these.

The Guie therefore riseth out of the blacke mounteines of Wales,
out of which the Sauerne springeth in Radnorshire, and comming by
[Sidenote: Darnoll.]
Lhangerike, and Raiadargoie, it receiueth one rill from the west
called Darnoll, and another from by northeast comming by saint
Harmon. Thence it goeth to Lhanuthell, and in the waie betwixt
[Sidenote: Elland.]
Raiader and Lhanuthell, it ioineth with the Elland, whose head is
[Sidenote: Clardwen.]
néere to Comeristwith, and taketh likewise into him the Clardwen
that diuideth for a season Radnorshire from Brecknoch, which Clardwen
is likewise increased by the Clarthie within thrée miles of his
head and lesse, hauing his course from southwest & hille soile
adiacent. From Lhanuthell it goeth west of Dissart, where it
[Sidenote: Ithan.]
receiueth the Ithan, a riuer rising aboue Lhanibister, and from
whence it runneth to Landwie, and Lambaderne vawr: beneath which
[Sidenote: Dulesse.]
[Sidenote: Cluedoch.]
it crosseth a water on ech side, whereof that on the right hand
consisteth on the Dulesse and the Cluedoch, after their confluence:
[Sidenote: Lamaron.]
the other hight Lomaron, whose head is aboue Lanthangle, and in
the forrest of Blethwag. After these confluences, it runneth on
[Sidenote: Hawie.]
crinkeling in strange manner, vnder the name of Ithor, till it come
to Dissart, taking in the Hawie on the left side yer it come there,
and then into the Wie on the north side, which directeth his course
[Sidenote: Yrwon.]
further to Bealt, where it receiueth the Yrwon, a notable streame,
descending from the hilles aboue Lanihangle Abergwessen, and thence
comming downe by Lanurid Lang marsh, Lanauan, Vechan, Langantan,
[Sidenote: Weuereie.]
and so to Beth or Bealt, being inlarged by the waie with sundrie
[Sidenote: Dulasse.]
faire waters, as the Weuereie, whose head is about Lanauan moore,
[Sidenote: Comarch.]
the Dulasse, or (as some call it) the Dowlasse, that commeth from
the hilles west of the head of Weuereie. The Comarch whose head
[Sidenote: Dulesse.]
and course is west of the Dowlasse on the north side, and likewise
by two other on the southwest, and Dilasse from by southwest, which
last rehearsed falleth into him halfe a mile and more aboue the
influence of the Comarch which lieth on the other side. After this
[Sidenote: Dehon.]
our Yrwon goeth to Lhanuareth, where it crosseth the Dehon on the
[Sidenote: Edwie.]
southwest side, then to Aberedwie, and there receiueth the Edwie
on the northeast, which ariseth in the hilles aboue Botins chappell,
and commeth downe by Crigend and Lanhaderne, thence the Guie goeth
[Sidenote: Machaweie.]
on to Lanstephan, and there (or a little aboue) taketh in the
[Sidenote: Leuenni.]
Machaweie that commeth by castell Paine, and so going on in processe
of time with the Leuenni, whereof Leland in his commentaries doth
write as here insueth.

[Sidenote: Euer.]
[Sidenote: Euerie.]
The Leuenni, otherwise called the Euer or Euerie, is a farre streame
rising in Welch Talgarth hard by Blaine Leuenni, among the Atterill
hilles, from whence it goeth to Brecknoch mere, which is two miles
long, and a mile broad, and where men doo fish in Vniligneis or
botes of one peece, as they doo in Lhin Seuathan, which is foure
[Sidenote: Brennich.]
miles from Brecknoch. Finallie bringing great store of red sand
[Sidenote: Trufrin.]
withall, and there with the Brennich water (that hath his originall
issue at Mennith gader, and is increased with the Trufrin) it
falleth into the Wie aboue Glesbirie three miles from Haie, at a
place that of the onelie fall of this brooke is named Aberleuenni,
after this the Guie. Being come to Haie, a pretie towne where much
Romane coine is found, which they call Jewes monie: and after it
[Sidenote: Dulesse.]
hath passed or crossed a little brooke, which commeth from Lanigon,
it méeteth with the Dulesse that commeth also from the Atterill by
Kersop, and from thence goeth to Clifford castell (being now entred
into Herefordshire, and leauing Radnor, wherevnto it hath for a
long course béene march) then to the Whitneies, Winferton, Letton,
Bradwarden, Broberie, Monington, Biford, Bridgesalers, Eaton,
Brinton, and Hereford, without anie influence of riuer worthie of
memorie, and yet with manie windlesses, & there méeteth with a
water rising short of Wormesleie, which goeth by Maunsell, Lacie,
Brinsop, Crednell, Stretton, and Huntington, and soone after into
the Wie, beside a little rill that runneth betwéene them both euen
into Hereford towne. From hence in like sort the Wie hasteth to
Rotheras church, Hampton, and Mordeford, where it taketh in sundrie
[Sidenote: Lug.]
waters in one chanell, of which the Lug or Luie is the principall,
and next of all to be described, before I go anie further with the
course of the Wie, whereinto it dischargeth the chanell. It riseth
in the edge of the forrest of Kemples aboue Langunlo: from whence
it goeth to Momonacht, Pilleth Whitton, Fuldibrooke, Prestaine, so
into Herefordshire, where betweene Bonie & Beton, or Bitton, it
receiueth in the Somergill, whose crotched head being march to
Radnor forrest, directeth his streame betwéene the new and old
Radnors, to Knill, to Nash, and so into the Lug, which presentlie
passeth by Kinsham, Shirleie, Ailmister, Kingsland, Eaton chappell,
and so into Lemister, where it crosseth the Oneie (a streamelet
rising short of Shobden, and going by Chorlester) a little before
it come to the west side of the towne.

At Lemister it selfe in like sort three waters doo méet, and almost
[Sidenote: Pinsell.]
inuiron the towne, that is to saie, the Lug, the Pinfulleie or
[Sidenote: Kenbrooke.]
Pinsell (a riueret rising at Kingsland two miles from Lemister) &
the Kenbrooke, which commeth out of the blacke mounteins, from
Lemister, otherwise called Leofminster, of the builder, and also
Leonminster, the Lug or Luie goeth on to Eaton, and there taketh
in a rill beneath Hampton, and aboue Hope, whereof one head is
betwéene Hatfield and Bickleton, another néere vnto Marston, and
méeting of both at Humber. From Hampton it goeth to Bodenham,
[Sidenote: Fromeie.]
Wellington, Morton, Sutton, Shelwijc, Lugwardin, and Longward,
where it crosseth the Fromeie or Frome, a pretie water, and worthie
to be remembred. It riseth about Wolferelaw, from whence it commeth
downe toward the southest by Edwinsloch to Bromyard, Auenburie,
[Sidenote: Loden aliàs Acton.]
Bishops Frome, Castell Frome, Can Frome, to Stretton vpon Frome,
and there taking in a water called Loden, comming from aboue Bishops
Grendon, by Pencombe, Cowarne, Stoke Lacie, Cowarne, and Engleton,
our Frome goeth on to Yarkeleie, Dornington, and Longward, and so
into the Lug, betwéene Longward and Suston, which runneth foorthwith
to Mordford, or Morthford, and there into the Wie, vnto whose
description I now returne againe.

Being come therefore vnto Mordford, it goeth to Fawnehope, Hamlacie,
[Sidenote: Treske.]
Ballingham, Capull regis, where it receiueth a water called Treske,
from little Berch by Treske, Fawleie, How, Capull Inkeston, Foie,
Brampton, Bridstow, Wilton castell, the Rosse, and there a rill
from Bishops Vptonward by Rudhall, Weresend, Ham, Glewston, Godderich,
here in like sort meeting with another that commeth from Ecleswall
in the confines of Glocestershire, by Peniard castell & Coughton,
to Welch Bicknor, English Bicknor, Huntesham, including a parcell
of Monmouthshire, being an outliggand, as ye may find in that
parcell of Herefordshire which butteth vpon Glocestershire (as you
shall find the like péece of Herefordshire in the confines of Salop
[Sidenote: Gainar.]
and Worcester, wherein Rochford standeth, beside manie other which
I haue elsewhere spoken of) Whitchurch, where it taketh in Gainar
water that commeth from Much Birch, by Lanwarne, Michaell church,
[Sidenote: Garran.]
and at Langarran crosseth the Garran brooke, that riseth in Gregwood,
short of Arcop, six miles from Monemouth by northwest: after which
these two doo runne as one to Marston, and almost Whitchurch, and
so into the Wie, which goeth from thence to Gunnarew, S. Michaell,
Dixton, and Monemouth, where I will staie a while, till I haue
described the Mone, next of all to be remembred here.

[Sidenote: Mona.]
The Mona or Monbecke, riseth in the forrest of Hene, twentie miles
from Monemouth by west in Eirisland, and going by Creswell, or
Craswall chappell not farre from the marches of Brecknocke, and
northeast of Hatuill hils, which after it hath run a good distance
[Sidenote: Eskill.]
from the head receiueth first the Eskle, and passeth by Lanihangle
[Sidenote: Elkon.]
and the old Court, from northweast, then the Olcon, from southwest,
which meeteth withall neere Cledoll or Knedoch, & passing by the
old towne, it hasteth to Altrinis, where it becommeth march betwéene
Hereford and Monemouth shires, and taketh in a water comming by
[Sidenote: Hodneie.]
Trewin, & likewise the Hordwie or Hodneie which riseth in Becknocke,
among the Saterelles, & runneth by Capell a fin, Lantonie, Cumroie,
Michaell church in Monemouthshire, and ioineth with our Mona at
Altrinis, which after this confluence hasteth to Walderstone,
Lansillo Langua, betwéene which and Kinechurch it ioineth with the
[Sidenote: Doure.]
Doure that riseth about the Bache aboue Dourston, which is six
miles aboue Doure abbie, so that it runneth through the Gilden
dale, by Peterchurch, Fowchurch, Morehampton, Newcourt, Doure, and
[Sidenote: Dulesse.]
beneath Doure taketh in the Dulesse, from southwest and Lanihangle,
[Sidenote: Wormesbecke.]
by Harleswas castell on the one side, and yer long the Wormesbecke,
descending from aboue Keuernall by Didleie, Deuerox, Workebridge,
and Kenderchurch on the other, and so running all in one chanell
vnto Mona, that riuer goeth on to Kinech church, Grismond, Cardwaie,
Skenfrith, Warnethall, Perthire, and so to Monemouth, where it
meeteth with the Wie, ouer each of which riuers Monemuth towne hath
his particular bridge.

The Guie or Wie therefore being increased with thus manie brookes
[Sidenote: Trollie.]
and waters, passeth on from hence, and going toward Landogo, it
méeteth with the Trollie becke, whose head is aboue Lannam ferrie
in the north part of Monemouth shire, and goeth from thence by
Lhantellio, Lanihangle, Gracedieu, Diggestow, Wonastow, Troie, and
[Sidenote: Elwie.]
so into Wie, that runneth also by Wies wood chase, taking in there
the Elwie that commeth from aboue Landelwie by Langowen, Lannissen,
Penclase, Trilegh, and Langogo, where méeting with the aforesaid
streame, the Wie directeth his course from thence by Tinterne abbeie
(where it crosseth a rill from Trile grange) Chapell hill, Parcasicke,
Penterie chapell, Lancante, Chepstowe, and so into the sea, leauing
the Treacle (a chappell standing on a rocke) on the hand betweene
it & Sauerne, ouer against the point that lieth south of Betteslie.
Next vnto the Wie, I find a rill of no great course, comming downe
from Mounton chappell, by a place of the bishops of Landaffe. Thence
passing by Charston rocke, and the point whereon Trinitie chappell
standeth, I come vnto the fall of Trogie, which riseth short of
[Sidenote: Trogie.]
Trogie castell, and runneth toward the sea, by Landuair, Dewston,
Calicot, and so into the Ocean, ouer against the Charston rocke.
[Sidenote: Dennie Iland in the middest of the Sauerne, and likewise
another litle one called Beuerage.]
The next fall is of a water that commeth from aboue Penho by saint
Brides, north and by west of Dennie Iland, which lieth midwaie
betweene that fall & Porshot point, and before I touch at Goldcliffe
point, I crosse another fall of a fresh brooke, whose head is aboue
Landueigo in Wencewood, and course by Lhanbed, Langston, Lhanwarme,
and through the More to Witston.

[Sidenote: Wiske.]
Next vnto this is the Aberwish, or Wiske, in Latine Osca, whereon
Caerleon standeth, sometime called Chester and Ciuitas legionum,
bicause the Romans soiourned there, as did afterward Arthur the
great, who also held a noble parlement in the same, whereof Galfride
maketh mention Lib. 7. cap. 4. affirming thereto, that in those
daies the maiestie thereof was such, as that all the forefronts of
their houses were in maner laid ouer with gold, according to the
Romane vsage. There was in the same in like sort a famous vniuersitie,
wherein were 200 philosophers; also two goodlie churches erected
in the remembrance of Iulius and Aaron, two Brittish martyrs,
whereby it might well be reputed for the third metropoliticall sée
in Britaine. But to our water, whereof I read that it is furthermore,
one of the greatest in Southwales, and huge ships might well come
to the towne of Caerleon, as they did in the time of the Romans,
if Newport bridge were not a let vnto them; neuerthelesse, big
botes come thereto. It is eight Welsh or twelue English miles from
Chepstow or Strigull, and of some thought to be in base Wenceland,
though other be of the contrarie opinion. But howsoeuer the matter
standeth, this riuer is taken to be the bounds of Brechnockshire,
as Renni is middle to Wenceland & Glamorganshire. But to leaue
these by-matters, and come to the description of the water.

[Sidenote: Vske.]
You shall vnderstand that the Vske or Wiske, in Latine Osca riseth
in the blacke mounteins ten miles aboue Brechnocke toward Carmardine,
the hill being properlie called Yminidh Duy out of which it falleth,
and situate in the verie confines betwéene Brechnocke and Carmardine
shires, from whence winding into the northeast, it commeth to
[Sidenote: Craie.]
Trecastle, and in the waie betwéene it and Capell Ridburne, it
taketh in the Craie brooke, on the right hand before it come to
Ridburne chappell. Going also from thence toward Deuinocke, it
[Sidenote: Sennie.]
crosseth the Senneie on the same side (which riseth aboue Capell
[Sidenote: Camblas.]
[Sidenote: Brane.]
Senneie) next of all the Camblas, & at Aberbraine, the Brane, or
the Bremich, whose head is thrée miles from Brechnocke, and running
[Sidenote: Yster.]
by Lanihangle, it méeteth I saie with the Vske, about master Awbries
manor. Beneath Aber Yster, it receiueth the Yster, which riseth
northwest aboue Martyr Kinoch, and commeth by Battell chappell,
[Sidenote: Hodneie.]
and going from thence by Lanspithed and Newton, it runneth in the
end to Brechnocke, where it taketh in the Hodneie or Honthie on
the one side, whose head is in Blaine Hodneie, and comming downe
from thence by Defrune chappell, Lanihangle and Landiuilog, it
méeteth with the Vske or Brechnocke townes end, which of the fall
of this water was sometime called Aberhodni, as I haue beene
[Sidenote: Tertarith.]
informed: on the other halfe likewise it receiueth the Tertarith
that riseth among the Bane hils, fiue miles from Brechnocke, and
commeth likewise into the verie suburbs of the towne, beneath
Trenewith, or new Troie, whereby it taketh the course.

[Sidenote: Kinuricke.]
After these confluences, the Vske procéedeth on toward Aberkinurike,
or the fall of a water whose head is in the roots of Menuchdennie
hill, and passage by Cantreffe. Thence it goeth by Lanhamlaghe,
[Sidenote: Riangall.]
Penkethleie castell, Lansanfreid, Landettie, Langonider, and soone
after receiuing the Riangall (which riseth about the hill whereon
Dinas castell standeth, and runneth by Lanihangle and Tretoure) it
[Sidenote: Groini.]
passeth betwéene Laugattocke and Cerigkhowell, to Langroinie, and
there about crosseth the Groinie brooke, that descendeth from
Monegather, Arthur hill, by Peter church, as I find. When the Vske
is past this brooke, it taketh in thrée other short rils, from by
[Sidenote: Cledoch Vaur.]
[Sidenote: Fidan.]
[Sidenote: Cledochvehan.]
south within a little distance, whereof the first hight Cledoch
Vaur, the second Fidan, and the third Cledochvehan. Of these also
the last falleth in néere to Lanwenarth. From hence the Vske runneth
[Sidenote: Kebbie.]
to Abergeuenni towne, where it méeteth with the Kebbie water from
[Sidenote: Geuenni.]
by north, that riseth short of Bettus chappell aboue the towne,
and the Geuennie that descendeth from aboue Landilobartholl beneath
not farre from Colbroke, and so goeth on to Hardwijc, beneath which
it crosseth thrée namelesse rilles, on the right hand or southwest
side before it come at Lanihangle vpon Vske, of whose courses I
know not anie more than that they are not of anie length, nor the
chanell of sufficient greatnesse seuerallie to intreat of. Betwéene
Kemmeis and Trostreie it meeteth with such an other rill that
commeth downe by Bettus Newith. Thence it goeth to Caer Vske or
Brenbigeie (whose bridge, I mene that of Vske, was ouerthrowne by
rage of this riuer, in the six and twentith yeare of king Henrie
[Sidenote: Birthin.]
[Sidenote: Caer Vske standeth on one side of Vske, and Caerleon
on the other, but Caer Vske by diuerse miles further into the land.]
the eight, vpon saint Hughes daie after a great snow) but yer it
come there, it receiueth the Birthin on the right hand, which is
a pretie water, descending from two heads, whereof the first is
northwest of Manihilot, as the other is of Lanihangle and Pentmorell.

[Sidenote: Elwie.]
Next vnto this it ioineth with the Elwie aboue Lanbadocke, whose
head is east of Penclase, and running westwards by Penclase,
Lanislen, Langowen (and beneath Landewie taking in a brooket from
Ragland castell, that commeth downe thither by Ragland parke) it
bendeth southwest, vntill it come at the Vske, which crinkling
towards the south, and going by Lanhowell, méeteth with three rilles
before it come to Marthenie chappell, whereof the first lieth on
the right hand, and the other on the left: the midlemost falling
into the same, not farre from Lantressen, as I haue béene informed.
From the mouth of the Romeneie to the mouth of the Taffe are two
miles. Certes the Taffe is the greatest riuer in all Glamorganshire,
(called by Ptolomie Rhatostathybius, as I gesse) and the citie
Taffe it selfe of good countenance, sith it is indued with the
cathedrall see of a bishop. The course of the water in like maner
is verie swift, and bringeth oft such logs and bodies of trées
withall from the wooddie hilles, that they doo not seldome crush
the bridge in péeces, but for so much as it is made with timber it
is repaired with lighter cost, wheras if it were of hard stone,
all the countrie about would hardlie be able to amend it. It riseth
in Brechnockshire among the woodie hilles, from two heads, whereof
one is in Monuchdenie, the other west of that mounteine, of which
the first called Taffe vaure, goeth by Capell lan vehan, Vainor,
and Morlais, the other by Capell Nantie, and ioining at southwest
beneath Morlais castle, they go to Martyr Tiduill, and toward
Lannabor, but by the waie it taketh in from northwest a brooke
called Cunnon, which commeth out of Brechnockshire by Abardare,
and afterward the Rodneie comming out of the same quarter (but not
out of the same shire) which runneth by Estridinodoch, a crotched
brooke, & therefore diuided into Rodneie vaure, & Rodneie vehan,
that being ioined with the Taffe, doth run on withall to Eglefilian,
castle Coch, Whitchurch, Landaffe, Cardiffe, and so into the sea,
not far from Pennarth point, where also the Laie dooth bid him
welcome vnto his chanell or streame. Furthermore, from Marthellie
it hasteth to Kemmeis, and yer it come at Caerleon or Chester in
the south, taketh in two waters on the right hand, of which the
first commeth downe from the north betweene Landgwie, Landgweth,
and by Lhan Henoch, without anie further increase: but the other
[Sidenote: Auon.]
is a more beautifull streame, called Auon, and thus described as
I find it among my pamphlets. The Auon riseth in the hilles that
séeme to part Monemouth and Brechenocke shires in sunder, and after
a rill receiued from Blorench hill on the northside of the same,
running downe from thence by Capell Newith and Triuethin, it
receiueth a water from by south almost of equall course, and from
that quarter of the countrie, and in processe of time another little
one from the same side, yer it come to Lanurgwaie and Lanihangle,
from whence it goeth to Guennocke and Penrose, & so in Vske before
it go by Caerleon. But here you must note, that the course of this
streame ioining beneath Quenocke chappell, with the other which
descendeth (as I said) from the hilles about foure miles aboue
Landgwaie and Langweth, dooth make an Iland aboue Caerleon, where
Penrose standeth, & much Romane coine is found of all sorts, so
that the influence of (he one into the other séemeth to me to be
but a draine deuised by man, to kéepe the citie from the violence
of such water as otherwise would oft annoie the same.

Being past Caerleon it runneth to Crindie, where maister Harbert
dwelleth, and there carieng another brooke withall, that riseth
north of Tomberlow hill, and descendeth by Henlis and Bettus
chappell, it runneth forth to Newport (in Welch castle Newith) and
[Sidenote: Ebowith.]
from thence vnder a bridge, after thrée or foure miles course to
the sea, taking the Ebowith water withall, which méeteth with the
same almost in the verie mouth or fall, and riseth in the edge of
Brecknoch shire, or (as Leland saith) high Winceland, from two
heads of which one is called Eberith Vehan, the other Eberith Mawr,
as I haue beene informed. The course of the first head is by
Blamgrent, and after the confluence they passe togither by Lanhileth,
and comming by west of Tomberlow hill (crossing a rill, from north
[Sidenote: Serowie.]
east by the waie) it taketh in thereabout the Serowie, that runneth
by Trestrent, & is of lesse race hitherto than the Ebowith, and
from that same quarter. After this confluence it goeth to Risleie,
Rocheston castell, next of all thorough a parke, and so by Greenefield
castell, and is not long yer it fall into the sea, being the last
issue that I doo find in the countie, which beareth the name of
Monemouth, and was in old time a part of the region of the Silures.
[Sidenote: Romeneie.]
The Romenie or (as some corruptlie call it) the Nonneie, is a
goodlie water, and from the head a march betwéene Monemouch &
Glamorgan shires. The head hereof is aboue Egglins Tider vap Hoell
otherwise called Fanum Theodori, or the church of Theodorus, whence
commeth manie springs, & taking one bottome, the water is called
Canoch and not Romeneie till it be come to Romeneie. It receiueth
no water on the east side, but on the west diuerse small beckes,
whereof three (and one of them called Ifra) are betwéene the rising
and Brathetere chappell, the fourth commeth in by Capell Gledis,
and Kethligaire, the fift from betwéene the Faldraie and Lanuabor,
the sixt & seuenth before it come to Bedwas, and the eight ouer
against Bedwas it selfe from chappell Martin, Cairfillie castell,
and Thauan, after which confluences it runneth on by Maghan, Keuen,
Mableie and Romeneie, & yer long crossing a becke at north west
that commeth from aboue Lisuan, Lamssen and Roch, it falleth into
the sea, about six miles from the Wisbe, and albeit the mouth therof
be nothing profitable for ships, yet is it also a march betwéene
the Silures and Glamorganshire.

[Sidenote: Laie.]
The Laie falleth into the sea a mile almost from the Taffe, and
riseth in the hilles aboue Lantrissent (for all the region is verie
hillie.) From whence comming by Lantrissent and Auercastell, it
runneth by Coit Marchan parke, Lambedder, S. Brides, Lhannihangle,
saint Pagans and Elaie, Leckwith, Landowgh, Cogampill, and so into
[Sidenote: Dunelais.]
the sea, without anie maner increase by anie rils at all sauing
the Dunelais, which riseth foure miles from his fall, east northeast,
and meeteth withall a little more than a quarter of a mile from
[Sidenote: Methcoid.]
Pont Velim Vaur, and likewise by west, the Methcoid that commeth
[Sidenote: Pedware.]
from Glinne Rodeneie, and wherein to the Pedware dischargeth that
small water gathered in his chanell. Here will I staie a little
and breake off into a discourse, which Leland left also as parcell
of this coast who toucheth it after this maner.

[Sidenote: Laie.]
From Taffe to Laie mouth or Ele riuer a mile, from Laie mouth (or
[Sidenote: Thawan.]
rather Penarth, that standeth on the west point of it) to the mouth
of Thawan riuer (from whence is a common passage ouer vnto Mineheued
[Sidenote: Scilleie.]
in Summersetshire of 17 miles) are about seuen Welsh miles, which
are counted after this maner. A mile and a halfe aboue Thawan is
Scilleie hauenet (a pretie succour for ships) whose head is in
[Sidenote: Barrie.]
Wenno paroch two miles and a halfe from the shore. From Scilleie
mouth to Aber Barrie a mile, and thither commeth a little rill of
fresh water into Sauerne, whose head is scant a mile off in plaine
[Sidenote: This Ile went fiftie yeares agone for x. pound.]
ground by northeast, and right against the fall of this becke lieth
[Sidenote: Come kidie.]
Barrie Hand a flight shot from the shore at the full sea. Halfe
a mile aboue Aber Barrie is the mouth of Come kidie, which riseth
flat north from the place where it goeth into the Sauerne, and
serueth oft for harbour vnto sea-farers. Thence to the mouth of
Thawan are thrée miles, wherevnto ships may come at will.

[Sidenote: Colhow.]
Two miles aboue Thawan is Colhow, whither a little rill resorteth
from Lau Iltuit, thence to the mouth of Alen foure miles, that is
[Sidenote: Alen.]
a mile to saint Dinothes castell, and thrée miles further. The Alen
riseth by northeast vp into the land at a place called Lhes Broimith,
or Skirpton, about foure miles aboue the plot where it commeth by
[Sidenote: Ogur.]
it selfe into Sauerne. From thence to the mouth of Ogur aliàs Gur
[Sidenote: Kensike.]
thrée miles. Then come they in processe of time vnto the Kensike
or Colbrooke riuer, which is no great thing, sith it riseth not
[Sidenote: Auon.]
aboue three miles from the shore. From Kensike to Aber Auon two
miles, and herein doo ships molested with weather oftentimes séeke
harborough. It commeth of two armes, wherof that which lieth
northeast is called Auon Vaur, the other that lieth northwest Auon
Vehan. They meet togither at Lhanuoie Hengle, about two miles
aboue Aber Auon village, which is two miles also from the sea.

[Sidenote: Neth.]
From hence to the Neth is about two miles and a halfe, thereon come
shiplets almost to the towne of Neth from the Sauerne. From the
[Sidenote: Tauie.]
mouth of Neth vnto the mouth of Crimline becke is two miles, and
being passed the same we come vnto the Tauie, which descendeth from
the aforesaid hilles and falleth into the sea by east of Swanseie.
[Sidenote: Lochar.]
Being past this we come vnto the Lichwr, or Lochar mouth, and then
[Sidenote: Wandres.]
gliding by the Wormes head, we passed to the Wandresmouth, wherof
[Sidenote: Vendraith Vaur, Vendraith Vehan.]
I find this description following in Leland. Both Vendraith Vaur
and Vendraith Vehan rise in a péece of Carmardineshire, called
Issekenen, that is to saie, the low quarter about Kennen riuer,
and betwixt the heads of these two hils is another hill, wherein
be stones of a gréenish colour, whereof the inhabitants make their
lime. The name of the hill that Vendraith Vaur riseth in, is called
Mennith Vaur, and therein is a poole as in a moorish ground, named
Lhintegowen, where the principall spring is, and this hill is eight
or nine miles from Kidwellie: the hill that Vendraith Vehan springeth
out of, is called Mennith Vehan, and this water commeth by Kidwellie
towne.

But about thrée or foure miles yer it come thither, it receiueth
a brooke called Tresgirth, the course whereof is little aboue a
mile from the place where it goeth into Vendraith, and yet it hath
foure or fiue tucking milles and thrée corne milles vpon it. At
the head of this brooke is an hole in the hilles side, where men
often enter and walke in a large space. And as for the brooke it
selfe, it is one of the most plentifull and commodious that is to
be found in Wales. All along the sides also of Vendraith Vaur, you
shall find great plentie of sea-coles. There is a great hole by
head of Vendraith Vehan, where men vse to enter into vaults of
great compasse, and it is said, that they maie go one waie vnder
the ground to Wormes head, and another waie to Cairkemen castell,
which is three miles or more into the land. But how true these
things are, it is not in me to determine; yet this is certeine,
that there is verie good hawking at the Heron in Vendraith Vehan.
There are diuerse prints of the passage of certeine worms also in
the caue, at the head of Vendraith Vehan, as the inhabitants doo
fable: but I neuer heard of anie man that saw anie worme there,
and yet it is beléeued that manie wormes are there. Hitherto out
of Leland. But now to returne to mine owne course.

[Sidenote: Laie.]
Leauing the Laie, which some call Elaie, and passing the Pennarth
baie, that lieth betwéene the Pennarth and the Lauerocke points,
[Sidenote: Barrie.]
we left Scillie Ilet (which lieth on the mouth of Scillie hauen
before described) and came vnto the Barrie, whose head is aboue
Wrinston castell, and from whence he runneth by Deinspowis, Cadoxton,
Barrie, and so into the sea.

[Sidenote: Aberthaw.]
Being past the Barrie water, we come to a fall called Aberthaw,
which riseth two or thrée miles aboue Lansanor, and going by Welch
Newton, it commeth at length to Cowbridge, and from thence goeth
to Lanblethian, Landoch, Beanpéere, Flimston, Gilston, and betweene
the east and the west Aberthaw, & into the Sauerne sea. But yer it
come all there it receiueth a brooke called Kensan, or Karnsan, or
Kensech, on the east side, whose head is east of Bolston, & comming
[Sidenote: Kensan.]
by Charnelhoid, Lhancaruan, & Lancadle, it falleth into the former
aboue either of the Thawans. Leland saith, that Kensan hath two
heads, whereof the more northerlie called Brane, lieth in Luenlithan,
and runneth seauen miles before it méet with the other. Leauing
this water we sailed on, casting about the Nash point, omitting
two or thrée small waters (whereof Leland hath alreadie as ye see
made mention) because I haue nothing more to add vnto their
descriptions, except it be, that the Colhow taketh in a rill from
Lan Iltruit, of whose course (to saie the truth) I haue no manner
of knowledge.

[Sidenote: Ogur.]
The Ogur or Gur, which some call the Ogmur, is a well faire streame
(as we were woont to saie in our old English) whose head is in the
same hilles, where the Rodeneies are to be found, but much more
westerlie, and running a long course yer it come to anie village,
it goeth at the length beneath Languineuere or Langouodoch, to S.
[Sidenote: Wennie.]
Brides vpon Ogur, then to Newcastell, and Marthermaure, beneath
which it méeteth the Wennie, halfe a mile from Ogur or Ogmur castell
on the east side of the banke. It riseth fiue or six miles from
this place, among the hilles, and comming downe at last by Lanharne,
it crosseth a rill yer long from northeast, and the confluence
passeth foorth by Coitchurch, Ogur castell, & so into the Ogur.
Leland writing of the waters that fall into this Ogur saith thus.
[Sidenote: Garrow.]
Into the Ogur also resorteth the Garrow two miles aboue Lansanfride
[Sidenote: Leuennie.]
bridge, descending from Blaingarow. It taketh furthermore (saith
[Sidenote: Corug.]
he) another called Leuennie rising in the parish of Glin Corug, at
northwest, and then running two miles lower, vniteth it selfe with
the Corug brooke, a little short thing, and worthie no longer
speach. From this confluence the Leuennie goeth seauen miles further
yer it meete with the Ogur on the west side, at Lansanfride, two
miles aboue Penbowt. And so far Leland. But I wot not what he
meaneth by it.

[Sidenote: Kensig.]
Next vnto the Ogur is the Kensig water, that commeth downe by the
[Sidenote: Margan.]
Pile and Kensig castell, and being past the same we crosse the
[Sidenote: Auon.]
Margan rill, where sir Edward Manxell dwelt, and so vnto Auon,
which hauing two heads (as is said) the more easterlie of them
commeth downe by Hauodaport chappell, the other by Glin Corug,
Michaell church, Aber Auon, and so into the sea, yéelding also in
time of néed a good harbour for ships to lodge and ride in. From
hence we went along by the Cole pits to the mouth of the Neth. The
[Sidenote: Neth.]
[Sidenote: Nethuehan.]
Neth is a faire water, rising of diuerse heads, whereof the more
easterlie named Nethuehan riseth not farre from the head of the
[Sidenote: Nethuaur.]
Kennon, and comming downe by Penedorin to Aberpirgwin it receiueth
Nethuaur, a little aboue the towne, which rising not farre southeast
[Sidenote: Trangarth.]
of the head of Tauie in Brecknoch shire (as all the rest doo)
[Sidenote: Meltaie.]
[Sidenote: Hepsaie.]
receiueth the Trangarth, the Meltaie and the Hepsaie, all which
are accounted as members of his head in one chanell, about a mile
or more before it ioine with Nethuehan. For as Trangarth riseth
east of Nethuaur, so the Melta riseth by east of Trangarth, and
ioineth with the same aboue Istrad wealthie, and a little beneath
the same towne taketh in the Hepsaie. So that albeit their seuerall
risings be half or a whole mile in sunder, yet haue they (in a
maner) like distance from Aberpirgwin, and their finall confluence
in the edge of Glamorganshire, which they directlie doo crosse.
After these confluences, the maine streame runneth in and out by
sundrie miles, and through the wooddie soiles, till it meet with
Cledaugh, which ioineth with the same beneath the Resonlaie, and
[Sidenote: Dulesse.]
goeth withall to Lanisted, where it taketh in the Dulesse, whose
head is aboue Chappell Krenaunt, in the marches of Brecknoch. Thence
it goeth to Cador towne, or betwéene it and Lannistide, then to
[Sidenote: Cledoch.]
Neth towne, whither small vessels often come: and beneath the same
receiuing the Cledoch that runneth by Kelebebilch (and also Neth
abbeie where maister Crumwell dwelleth) it goeth on by Coitfranke
forrest, Nethwood, Briton ferrie, and so into the sea.

[Sidenote: Tauie.]
The Tauie riseth in the thickest of the blacke mounteines in
Brecknochshire west of Nethnaur, and comming downe west of Calwen
[Sidenote: Coilus.]
chappell, it receiueth on the east banke a rill named Coiell that
runneth thither by Coielburne chappell: and being thus vnited, the
[Sidenote: Torch.]
chanell passeth foorth by Istradgunles, and then méeting with the
Turch or Torch water that commeth from the foot of the blacke
mounteines, and is march to parcell of Caermardinshire, it runneth
to Langoge, Lansamled, saint Iohns, Swanseie, and so into the Baie.
Being past this, we come by another little fall, whose water runneth
thrée or foure miles yer it come into Swanseie baie, but without
name. Thence we go to the Crimline becke, whose description I
neither haue, nor find anie great want therof. Wherfore going about
by Oistermont castell, and Mumbles point, we passe foorth toward
[Sidenote: Ilston.]
the southwest, by Penmarch point, til we come to Ilston water,
whose head is not farre within the land; and yet as it commeth
thorough the woodland, and downe by Penmarch castell, a rill or
two dooth fall into the same. Then casting about by Oxwich point,
we go onward there by, and sailing flat north by the Holme (hauing
[Sidenote: Lochar.]
passed the Wormeslead and S. Kennets chappell) and then northeast
by Whitford point, we went at length to the Lochar or Loghor, or
as Lhoyd nameth it, the Lichwr, whose indraught for a certene space
is march betwéene Caermardine and Glamorgan shires. It riseth aboue
[Sidenote: Amond.]
Gwenwie chappell, from whence it goeth Landbea, to and aboue Bettus
receiueth a rill named Amond that entreth thereinto from northeast.
Being past Bettus, it passeth by Laneddie, Arthelas bridge, and
[Sidenote: Combwilie.]
ouer against Landilo Talabout, it crosseth from by west, the
[Sidenote: Morlais.]
Combwilie by west of Parkreame, and afterward the Morlais aboue
[Sidenote: Lhu.]
Langnarch on the same side. Then comming to Loghor castell, it
taketh in on the east side, the Lhu, whose course is not aboue fiue
[Sidenote: Burraie.]
miles, and thence loosing the name of Lochar, it is called Burraie,
as some gesse, vntill it come to the sea, where it parteth it selfe
going on each side (of Bachannie Iland, a small thing) and not
worthie for anie thing I read thereof, as yet to be particularlie
described. From this water we passed (I saie) by Bachannies Ile,
to the Aberlheddie water, whose head being in the hilles aboue
Prenacrois, it passeth by Lhaneltheie, and thence into the sea.
[Sidenote: Dulesse.]
Then went we to the Dulesse a little rill, whose head is not farre
[Sidenote: Wandres.]
from Trinsaren: thence by the Pembraie and Calicoit points, till
we came about to the Wandres or Vendraith mouth, whose description
is partlie touched alreadie; but bicause it is not such as I would
wish it to be, I will here after my owne maner deale somewhat
further withall. Gwendrath or Vendraith vaur riseth in the lower
ground, or not far from the hill Renneth Vaur, whereon castell
Careg standeth, and descending by a pretie long course vnder sundrie
bridges, commeth at the last to Glin, then to Capull Lanberie, and
so vnto the sea, being little augmented with influences by the
waie. Vendraith Vehan riseth a mile higher towards the north than
Vendraith Vaur, but out of the same soile, & thence directing his
course toward the southwest, it goeth by Lancharog, Langendarne,
Capull Langell, Bithon, Leighdenie, Kidwillie, and so into the sea,
about one mile from the fall of Vendraith Vaur.

[Sidenote: Towie.]
The Towie riseth in the mounteines of Elennith foure miles by
southeast from Lintiue, and two from Lingonon, in a moorish ground
foure & twentie miles from Caermardine, and in a forrest called
Bishops forrest, midwaie betwixt Landwibreuie & Landanuerie castell.
For fish, in my opinion, this is much better than the Taw or Taffe,
whose head breedeth no fish, but if it be cast into it, they turne
vp their bellies flote aloft and die out of hand. It parteth
[Sidenote: Trausnant.]
Brecknoch from Cardigonshire also for a certeine season, till it
come by the water of Trausnant, that falleth thereinto from by east
[Sidenote: Tothée.]
out of the confins of Brecknoch, vnto Pilin capell, and so to
Istrodefine, where it méeteth with the Tothee that commeth thither
from Lhinuerwin where it riseth, and so through Rescoth forrest,
[Sidenote: Pescotter.]
vniting it selfe by the waie with the Pescotter, which mounting
out of the ground in the edge of Cardigonshire, runneth along as
a limit and march vnto the same, till it ioine with the Tothée,
and both come togither beneath Istrodefine into Towie, which we
haue now in hand. After this confluence it commeth to Lhanuair
Awbreie, Lanihowell, and Lanimphfrie, and here it receiueth two
[Sidenote: Brane.]
[Sidenote: Gutherijc.]
waters in one chanell, whereof the first is called Brane, the other
Gutherijc (which lieth more southerlie of the two) and fall (as I
[Sidenote: Dulesse.]
[Sidenote: Morlais.]
said) into Towie beneath Landonuereie, which runneth on till it
méet with the first Dulesse that goeth by Lenurdie, then with the
Morlais, and these on the northwest. Certes the Brane is a pretie
brooke rising two or thrée miles aboue Capell Newith, and descending
by Lanbrane and Vstradwalter, it méeteth (I saie) with the Gutherijc,
whose head is west of Tridcastell in Brecknochshire, and thereby
it is not a little increased. But to proceed with the Towie, which
being past Lanimphfrie and a rill that méeteth with the same,
descending from northwest of Lanurdan, it taketh in the influences
of diuerse waters in one chanell, of which the greatest is called
Modewie, and thereof I find this description.

[Sidenote: Modewie.]
The Modewie, or (as some pronounce it) Motheuie, riseth of two
[Sidenote: Cledoch.]
heads, which ioining aboue Lanihangle, the streame runneth on till
[Sidenote: Sawtheie.]
it méet with the Cledoch on the left hand, procéeding also further
toward Langadocke, it receiueth not far from thence the Sawtheie,
whose two heads descend from the blacke mounteines or east edge of
[Sidenote: Dulesse. 2.]
Carmardineshire (as mine information leadeth me.) After this
confluence the second Dulesse dooth méet with the Towie, whose head
is in the hilles aboue Talthogaie abbeie, northwest from Langadocke
[Sidenote: Dulesse. 3.]
full fiue miles: then comming downe by Landilovaur, Newton, Dinefar
castell, and Golden groue, it receiueth the third Dulesse from by
[Sidenote: Cothie.]
north that commeth in by Lanihangle and Drislan castell, and after
that the Cothie, whose race is somewhat long, and therefore his
description not vtterlie to be passed ouer.

Not farre from the head (which is three miles from Landanbreuie,
vnder the hulke of Blame Icorne, a narrow passage, and therein
[Sidenote: Turche.]
manie heaps of stones) and somewhat beneath Lana Pinsent chappell,
it taketh in the Turche becke that runneth thither from aboue
Lanacroies: thence it goeth to Lansawell, Abergorlech, Breghuangothie,
[Sidenote: Rauelthie.]
Lannigood, and so into Towie, which hasting forward by chappell
[Sidenote: Gwilie.]
Dewie, receiueth the Rauelthie from by north, then the Gwilie from
northwest, whose head is aboue Lanie Pinsent, and race by Canwell,
Eluert, Comewilie, and Merling hill as I haue often heard. After
this confluence with the Gwilie, the Towie goeth to Caermardine,
then to Lanigang, then to Lanstephan, S. Ismaels, and so into the
sea.

[Sidenote: Taue.]
Next vnto the Towie is the Taue, whose head is in the blacke
mounteines, as at the roots of Wrenni vaur hill in Pembrookeshire,
[Sidenote: Dudderie.]
from whence it runneth by Lanuurnach, Langludien, Lanualteg, and
taking in the Dudderie from southwest, out of the same countie by
[Sidenote: Marlais.]
Lanbederuelfraie, and Lindwie, it goeth to Eglesware chappell,
[Sidenote: Vennie.]
beneath which it crosseth the Marlais by north that runneth by
Lanbedie and Whitland. Thence méeting with one rill called Venni,
[Sidenote: Caire.]
as I take it, that commeth through Cardith forrest on the one side,
[Sidenote: Carthkinnie.]
and the Caire on the other that runneth into it west of Landowror,
[Sidenote: Gow.]
it hasteth to S. Clares, where it taketh in the Carthkinnie, or
Barthkinnie (as Leland calleth it) and the Gow or Tow both in one
chanell, of which the first riseth aboue Capell Bettus, from whence
it runneth by Talacouthe, Kilsant, and Langinnin, the other issueth
out of the ground aboue Trologh Bettus, by Midrun, & ioining with
the former a little aboue S. Clares, they run into the Taue, and
[Sidenote: Gowen.]
from thence to Lanihangle, and betwéene it and Abercowen, admitteth
finallie the Gowen or Gow streame, which comming likewise from the
blacke mounteines, goeth by Ebbernant, & so into the Taue, who
directeth his course by Lancharne castell, and then into the sea.

[Sidenote: Gwair.]
The next water that we come to is the Gwair, which is but a small
thing rising aboue Lambeder Velfraie, and going from thence by east
of castell Merhie hill, Crumuier and Argwaire, it is not long yer
it fall into the sea, and so we leaue Cairdinshire, and go ouer
into Penbrooke. Then passed we by an other comming out of Rathe
forrest called Coit Rathe, the water it selfe rising about Templeton.
Thence leauing the Monkeston rocke, we came to Tenbie or Dinbechie
Piscood, and passing into the port betwéene the castell and S.
[Sidenote: Brechnocke.]
Katharines rocke, we found it serued with two little backe waters,
of so small countenance, that they are not worthie of anie further
talke to be spent in their descriptions: yet the one séemeth to be
called Florence brooke, the other Fresto, Gunfreston standing
[Sidenote: From Londie to Caldie thirtie miles.]
betwéene them both, when by their sight cannot perish. After this
we passed betwéene Londie and an other Ilet or rocke lieng by
northwest of the same, to Ludsop point, & so to Abertrewent, where
[Sidenote: Trewent.]
I found a sillie fresh water named Trewend that riseth a mile or
thereabout within the land. From thence we went southwards by
Brode hauen, till we came to S. Gowans point. Then gathering west
and by north before we came at Shepe Hand, we found another fresh
water, that riseth short of Kiriog Maharen, and running south of
Vggarston, Windmill hill, or betwéene it and Castell Norton and
Gupton, it holdeth on flat west all the waie till it come to the
Ocean.

Being passed this water, we cast about toward the northwest, by
[Sidenote: Pennar.]
the Poptons and Pennar, till we came to the Pennar mouth, out of
which the salt water issueth that in manor inuironneth Penbroke.
From this (omitting sundrie salt créekes on both sides of the hauen,
not appertinent to our purpose) we came to the tall of two waters
in one chanell, aboue whose confluence Williamston parke standeth,
and whereof one (a méere salt course) incloseth thrée parts of
Carew castell. The other rising neere to Coit Rath forrest is a
fresh, & going by Geffraiston, Creswell & Lawrenie, it leaueth the
parke on the south side, & goeth into the hauen after confluence
with the former.

Now come I to the two swords, or hauen of Milford, whereinto two
[Sidenote: Dugledu.]
riuers direct their course from the northeast called Dugledu or
[Sidenote: Cultlell.]
the two swords, and betwéene them both is a rill which they call
also Cultlell (that is to saie) the knife. Hereof riseth a merrie
tale of a Welshman, that lieng in this place abroad all night in
the cold weather, and peraduenture not verie well occupied, was
demanded of his hostesse (where he did breake his fast the next
morrow) at what inne he laie in the night precedent, bicause he
came so soone to hir house yer anie of hir maids were vp? Oh good
hostesse (quoth he) be contented, I laie to night in a dangerous
estate, for I slept betweene two swords with a long knife at my
heart; meaning indeed that he laie betwéene these two riuers, and
his brest towards the south néere to the head of Cultlell. But to
passe ouer these iests. Here Leland speaketh of a riuer called
[Sidenote: Gwilie.]
Gwilie, but where it riseth or falleth, he maketh no certeine
report: wherefore it is requisit that I proceed according to my
purpose.

The one of these swords is called Clotheie or Clothie, of which I
[Sidenote: Clotheie.]
find this short and breefe description. The Clothie riseth at the
foot of Wrennie vaure hill and comming downe to Monachlodge,
Langelman, Lannakeuen, and Egremond, it receiueth a rill from by
northwest before it come at Lanhaddon castell, which commeth from
aboue the moore by Clarbaston and Bletherston, his head arising in
the hill west of Mancloghaie, as Leland dooth informe me. Yer long
also and beneath Lanhaddon it taketh in another on the east side
from Narbarth castell, comming by Robeston, then going by Cunaston,
Slebach, Picton castell, Sister houses, Minware & Martheltwie, at
[Sidenote: Dugledie.]
Rise castell point west of Coit Kenles (as I haue béene informed)
it taketh in the other sword, named Dugledie, wherof I read as
followeth. The head of the Dugledie is somwhere at northwest,
betwixt S. Laurences & S. Dugwels, from whence it runneth to
Trauegarne, Redbaxton, & taking in a rill by the waie from Camrose
at the west, it goeth to Hauerford or Hereford west, and there
[Sidenote: Gwilie.]
vniteth it selfe with a water, which peraduenture is the same that
Leland called Gwilie. Certes it riseth short of Walton, and comming
by S. Leonards chappell and Pendergest, it falleth I saie into the
Dugledie, ouer against the towne of Hauerford or Herford west, but
in Welsh Hulford; as Lhoid dooth set it downe. Beneath Herford it
taketh in another water from south west, whose head is short of S.
Margarets chappell, and enterance betweene Harraldston and Herford,
which Harraldstone receiueth the name of Harrald the successour of
Edward the confessour as some call him, who was a greeuous mall
vnto the Britons that remained in the time of the said Edward; as
I haue noted elsewhere. Then the Dugledie still descending taketh
in the Frese from Fresethorpe, a rill of no great accompt, and
therefore I go from it making hast vnto Culthell, & omitting two
rils betwéene it and the Clotheie on the southside, of no great
weight and moment. The Cultlhell commeth into the Dugledie beneath
Bolston, with a streight course from by north, of three or foure
miles, rising by west of Slebach, and comming by Bowlston, after
whose vnition with the aforesaid water they run on as one till they
méet with the Clothie, casting out by the waie sundrie salt créekes,
as the maine chanell dooth from thence foorth vntill it passe the
Sandie hauen, the Dale rode (whither a sillie fresh rill commeth
of small value) & be come about againe to the large Ocean.

Having thus shewed the courses of those few fresh waters that come
[Sidenote: Gateholme Ile.]
to Milford hauen, we cast about by the Blockehouse and S. Annes
[Sidenote: Stockeholme Ile.]
chappell to Gateholme Ile, that lieth betwéene S. Annes and the
Wilocke point, directlie ouer against Stockeholme Iland that is
situat further off into the sea, toward the southwest, and is full
halfe so great as the Scalmeie that I elsewhere described. Betweene
[Sidenote: Midland Ile.]
the Willocke point also and the Scalmeie, directlie west is the
Midland Ile, full so great as the Gateholme. As for the two rocks
that lie by north and south of the Scalmeie, of which the one is
called the Yardland stone, the other Mewstone, it shall not be
greatlie requisit to stand on their discourses, sith they are such
as may hardlie be taken for Ilands, and euen in like sort we may
[Sidenote: Gresholme.]
iudge of S. Brides Ile, which is southwest of Calthrop rode, &
likewise of the Gresholme, whereof I find this short description.
The Gresholme lieth directlie west of Scalmeie, from whence if you
saile thither on the south side, you must néeds passe by the Mewstone
rocke: if on the north of Scalmeie, you must leaue the Yarland
stone on your left hand. Wherto if you note well the situation of
these Ilands alreadie named, and confer them with the Ramseie and
S. Dauids land, you shall find them to produce as it were two
dangerous points, including the Bridbaie, wherein (notwithstanding
the greatnesse) are 1000 perils, and no fresh brookes for me to
deale withall. Finallie, hauing doubled the Willocke point, we
thought it not good a together to leaue that baie vnsearched, at
lestwise to sée what Ilands might there be found, & long entred
[Sidenote: S. Brides Iland.]
into the same, we beheld one which the men of the countrie call S.
Brides Iland, a verie little place and situate néere the land,
before I came at Galtroie rode. From thence we went about by the
little hauen, Doluach hauen, Caruaie hauen, Shirelace rocke,
Carnbuddie, and Carnaie baies, Portelais, and so into the sound
betweene Ramseie and the point. In this sound likewise is a little
Ile, almost annexed to the maine: but in the middest thereof, I
meane of the sound, is a rocke called the horsse (a mile and more
by north of Ribbie rocke, that lieth south east of Ramseie) and
more infortunate than ten of Seians colts, but thanked be God I
neuer came on his backe. Thence passing by S. Stephans, and Whitesand
[Sidenote: A sort of dangerous rocks lieng on a row vpon the west end
of Southwales called the Bishop & his clerkes.]
baies, we saluted the Bishop and his clerks, as they went on
procession on our left side (being loth to take anie salted holie
water at their hands) and came at last to the point called S. Dauids
head, which Ptolomie calleth Octapitanum promontorium, except I be
deceiued. But here gentle reader giue me leaue to staie a while,
and insert the words of Leland touching the land called S. Dewies
or S. Dauids land, whereof some men may peraduenture haue vse, his
words are these. Being therefore past this hauen and point of
[Sidenote: S Dewie or Dauid all one.]
Demetia, in casting about the coast we come to S. Dewies or S.
Dauids land, which Ptolomie calleth Octapitanum promontorium, I
read to be separated from the rest of the countrie much after this
maner, although I grant that there may be and are diuerse other
little creekes betwixt Newgale and S. Dauids head, and betwixt S.
Dauids and Fischard, beside those that are héere mentioned out of
a register of that house.

As we turne therefore from Milford, S. Dauids land beginneth at
Newgale, a créeke serued with a backe fresh water. Howbeit there
[Sidenote: Saluach.]
is a baie before this creeke betwixt it and Milford. From hence
about foure miles is Saluach creeke, otherwise called Sauerach,
whither some fresh water resorteth: the mouth also thereof is a
[Sidenote: Portelais.]
good rescue for balingers, as it (I meane the register) saith.
Thence go we to Portelais three miles, where is a little portlet,
[Sidenote: Alen.]
whither the Alen that commeth through saint Dewies close dooth run.
It lieth a mile southwest from S. Dewies, saint Stinans Chappell
[Sidenote: Portmaw.]
[Sidenote: Maw.]
[Sidenote: Pendwie.]
also is betwéene Portelais, and Portmaw. The next is Port Maw,
where I found a great estuarie into the land. The Pendwie halfe a
[Sidenote: Lanuehan.]
[Sidenote: Tredine.]
mile from that: Lhand Vehan is thrée miles from Pendwie, where is
[Sidenote: Langunda.]
a salt créeke, then to Tredine three miles, where is another creeke
to Langunda, foure miles, and another créeke is there in like sort
where fishermen catch herrings. Héere also the Gwerne riuer diuideth
[Sidenote: Fischard.]
[Sidenote: Gwerne.]
Penbidiane from Fischerdine Kemmeis land. From Langunda to Fischard
at the Gwerne mouth foure miles, and here is a portlet or hauenet
also for ships. And thus much of S. Dauids land.

Besides this also, Leland in a third booke talketh of lhinnes and
pooles, but for as much as my purpose is not to speake of lakes
and lhinnes, I passe them ouer as hasting to Teifie, in Latine
Tibius, and after Ptolomie Tuerobius or Tiuirobius, which is the
next riuer that serueth for my purpose. And yet not forgetting to
touch the Gwerne, for after we came from saint Dauids head, we
coasted along toward the southeast, till wée came ouer against
saint Catharins, where going northwards by the broad hauen, and
the Strombles head, we sailed thence northeast, and by north, to
Langlas head, then flat south by the Cow and Calfe (two cruell
rockes) which we left on the left hand, & so coasted ouer to Abergwin
[Sidenote: Gwerne.]
or Fischard, where we found a fresh water named Guin, or Gwerne,
whose course is in manner directlie out of the east into the west,
from Vremie hils by pont Vaunt and Lanichair, vntill it come within
a mile of the foresaid towne. It riseth flat north of the Perselie
hill, from whence it goeth by Pont vaine, Lauerillidoch, Lanchar,
[Sidenote: Neuerne.]
Landilouair, & so to Abergwine, or Abergwerne, for I read both.
From Abergwine, we cast about by Dinas head, till we come to the
fall of Neuerne, where Newport standeth. The head of this riuer is
aboue Capell Nantgwin, from whence it runneth by Whitchurch, but
yer it come at Kilgwin, it taketh in a little water that riseth
short of Wrenie vaure, and thence go foorth as one vntill they come
to Newport. Cardigan hauen is the next fall that I did stumble on,
[Sidenote: Teifie or Tine.]
wherein lieth a little Iland ouer against the north point. Hereinto
also commeth the Teifie, a noble riuer which riseth in Lintiuie,
and is fraught with delicate samons, and herein and not else where
in all the riuers of Britaine, is the Castor or Beuer to be found.
But to procéed. The verie hed thereof (I saie) is foure miles aboue
Stradflore in Luitie, and after it hath run from thence a little
space, it receiueth a brooke from southeast that commeth out of
[Sidenote: Miricke.]
Lin Legnant, and then after the confluence runneth on to Stradflore
abbeie, beneth which it méeteth with the Miricke water (that riseth
[Sidenote: Landurch.]
aboue Stradmirich) and soone after with the Landurch (both from
the northwest) and finallie the Bremich aboue Tregaron, that commeth
in by the east; as Leland hath set downe.

[Sidenote: Bromis.]
Néere to Landwibreuie also it crosseth the Bromis by east northeast,
[Sidenote: Matherne.]
and then goeth to Landuair, Cledogh, Kellan, and soone after taking
[Sidenote: Dulas.]
in the Matherne from by east, that parteth Cardigan partlie from
Carmardine shire, and likewise that Dulas aboue Lanbedder (which
riseth aboue Langibbie, and goeth thence to Bettus) on the northwest,
[Sidenote: Grauelth.]
it goeth next of all to Lanbedder towne, then to Laniuair, beneath
which it crosseth the Grauelth, thence to Pencarocke, Lanibether,
[Sidenote: Clethor.]
Lanlonie, Lanihangle, and Sandissell, and there it vniteth it selfe
with the Clethor or Dettor, which commeth downe thither by Lantisilued
chappell, Lanfraine, and finallie Landissell from by north, as I
doo here affirme. After this confluence it procéedeth on to Landuaie,
[Sidenote: Kerie.]
Alloine, Bangor, Langeler, Landeureog and Newcastell, yer long
taking in the Kerie from by north, whose head is not farre from
that of Clethor, and whose course is somewhat inlarged by such
rilles as descend into the same. For west of Kenwith two becks in
one chanell doo fall into it, which be namelesse, and but of a
little length.

Beneath Tredwair also it crosseth another from by west, that runneth
along by Bettus, Euan, and finallie méeting with the Teifie, they
run as one by Kennarth (still parting Cardigon shire from Camardin,
as it hath doone sith it met with the Matherne) and so forth on
[Sidenote: Cheach.]
till they ioine with the Cheach, which rising southeast aboue
chappell Euan, dooth part Carmardine and Brechnocke shire in sunder,
till it come vnto the Teifie. From this confluence, and being still
a limit vnto Cardigon shire, it goeth by Marierdine, and so to
Cardigon, taking in one rill from by north descending by Penneralt,
by north of Monardiue or Marierdiue, and two other from by southwest,
of which the one commeth in beneath Kilgaron castell, the other
from Lantwood north west of Oswid Mortemer, which lieth southeast
of Cardigan, and then going forward betwéene S. Dogmaile, &
Langordmere, it is not long yer it fall into the Irish sea, flat
west and by north from his vprise, and sending vs forth from Penlooke
into Cardigon shire, wherevnto it hath become march euer sithence
it came from Kellam, or confluence with the Matherne.

Being come into Cardigon shire, and hauing passed the Cardigon
[Sidenote: Airon.]
point, an Iland of the same denomination lieng by west thereof, we
came vnto the fall of Airon thrée miles beneath Lancleere, it riseth
in the mounteines by a chappell called Blam Peniall belonging to
Landwie breuie about thrée or foure miles from Tiue banks, & runneth
on by Lamberwooddie, Langitho, Tregrigaron hill, Treuilian, Talaferne,
and soone after taking in a rill from by south from Siliam by
Lanleir it runneth by Istrade, Kilkennen, Lanicharin, and finallie
[Sidenote: Bidder.]
into the sea, crossing by the waie the Bidder brooke, which comming
[Sidenote: Arth.]
from Dehewide, dooth fall into the same, betwéene Lanchairin, and
Henuenneie. The Arth which is the next fall is no great thing,
neither of anie long course, yet somewhat crotched, and it riseth
three or foure miles or more within the land slopewise, and comming
by Lambaderne, and Treueglois, it falleth into the sea, northeast
of Aberarth.

Being past the Arth, & hauing staied there a while bicause we found
[Sidenote: Ris aliàs Wereie.]
some harborough, we came next of all vnto the Wereie, which riseth
of two heads, aboue whose confluence standeth a towne, named
Lanihangle, Redrod, and from whence it goeth by Lanigruthen to
Laristed, & so into the Ocean. Then went we to the Ystwith, which
riseth in the blacke mounteins aboue Comerstwith, from whence it
[Sidenote: Istwith.]
runneth certeine miles, vntill it come vnto Ispittie, Istwith,
Lananon, Laniler, Lan Nachairne, and so into the sea, taking withall
[Sidenote: Redholl.]
first the Meleuen, then the Ridall or Redholl not farre from the
shore, whereof I haue this description. The Ridall riseth in the
top of Plimlimmon hill out of a lake named Lin Ridall, from whence
going toward Spittie Kinwen, it crosseth one water on the north,
and another beneth it on the southeast, and so goeth on by Lanbeder
vaure, till it come to Aberistwith, the Istwith, and so into the
[Sidenote: Salique.]
Ocean. Hauing thus viewed the Istwith, and taken our selues againe
to the sea, we crossed the Salke or Salique brooke, whereof I find
this memoriall. The Salique brooke descendeth in like sort from
[Sidenote: Massalique.]
the blacke mounteins, & going from Vmmaboue, toward Gogarth, or
[Sidenote: Lerie.]
Gogirthar, it receiueth the Massalique, and from thence goeth into
the sea, southwest from his originall. From hence we went to the
Lerie, an indraught of no great quantitie, neither commodious as
I gesse (yet I may be deceiued) for anie ship to harborough in. It
riseth toward the lower ground of the blacke hils, and going by
Lanihangle castell Gwalter, it runneth from thence northeast into
the Ocean, receiuing a rill by the waie from the hilles which lie
by northeast of his course. But what stand I vpon trifles?

[Sidenote: Wie.]
Thus haue I brought my selfe out of Caerdigan shire vnto the Wie,
which is limit betwéene it and Merioneth for a certeine space, &
being entred in the mouth thereof we gat vp to the head, minding
in the description of the same to come downeward as in the rest,
which we will doo in such good manner as for the time and want of
some information is possible to be performed. It ariseth in the
south part of Snowdonie and goeth on foorth right to Lammothwie,
by Mowdhewie, Mathan laith, and comming downe to Dinas Mathew, it
receiueth two rilles from northwest, and the third comming by
Mailroid called Cludoch from northeast, & so holdeth on crossing
the Angell water at the west, which boundeth Mongomerie shire in
[Sidenote: Remis.]
part, till it come to Romis, beneath which water it taketh in the
Towin that passeth by Lambrin mawr from Talgarth, and then goeth
to Mathrauerne, crossing another from by north and so foorth to
Lanworing, where it méeteth with the Kerig on the one side, and
the Gwidall which commeth from Dorowen on the other.

After this, our maine riuer goeth by Pengos, and beneath the same
taketh in an influence from southeast, called the Dulas, and another
from the northwest: from thence it hasteth on to Magenillet, or
Machenlet, first crossing the Leuennie from southeast, secondlie
the Peniall from northwest, thirdlie the Einon, fourthlie the Kinar,
fiftlie the Cleidor, these thrée last rehearsed falling into it
from southeast, & the last hauing his course by Langwinhelin and
so into the sea, as mine instruction vpholdeth. It séemeth in some
mens iudgements to part Northwales and Westwales in sunder, and
the same which in Latine hight Deuus, in Welsh or British Difi or
Dewie, whereof the Latine doth séeme to fetch his sound. But to
procéed with the rest of such falles and waters as are to be found
in this countie. Going therfore northwestward we come to a fall
from the north called Towen Merionneth which is the mouth of the
Difonnie streame, a pretie riuer rising in the hilles aboue
Lanihangle, and west of castell Traherne receiueth the Ridrijc,
which commeth from Chadridrijc hill, by Tallillin castell, Treherie,
and so into the Difonnie from southeast, fetching his course by
Lanegrin, and so into the sea within fiue miles thereof.

Being past this we did cast about by the Sarnabigh point, till we
came to the Lingouen becke, and so to the Barre, which is a faire
water, and therefore worthie to be with diligence described, yet
it is not called Bar from the head, but rather Moth or Derie, for
so are the two chiefe heads called out of which this riuer descendeth,
and are about six miles west of the Lin, out of which the Dée hath
his issue, and betwéene which the Raran vaure hilles are situat
and haue their being. After the ioining of the two heds of this
Barre, as I name it from the originall, it receiueth a rill from
northeast called Cain, & another beneath the same, comming from
Beurose wood, and so holdeth on towards the south betweene Laniltid
and Kemmor abbaie, till it meet a little by west of Dolgelth with
the Auon vaure, which comming also out of the Woodland soile, &
taking in a rill from Gwannas, hasteth northwestward (by Dolgelth)
to ioine with the Barre, and being met they receiue the Kessilgunt,
then the Hirgun, & after a course of foure to fiue miles it falleth
into the sea, hauing watered the verie hart & inward parts of this
shire. From hence we crosse the Skethie which runneth by Corsogdale
and Lanthwie, aliàs Lanthonie, then the Lambader which receiuing
the Artro aboue Lambader, doth fall into the sea, southeast of the
point, and flat south of Landango, which is a towne situat on the
other side of the turning.

[Sidenote: Ho.]
After this we passed by Aberho, so named of the riuer Ho, that
falleth there into the sea, and commeth thither from the Alpes or
hils of Snowdonie, mounteins, no lesse fertile for grasse, wood,
cattell, fish and foule, than the famous Alpes beyond the seas,
whereof all the writers doo make so honorable report. From hence
[Sidenote: Mawr.]
we sailed by Abermawr or mouth of Mawr, which commeth in like sort
[Sidenote: Artro.]
from Snowdonie, and taketh diuerse riuers with him whose names I
doo not know. Then vnto the Artro a brooke, whose head commeth from
by north east, and in his course receiueth the Gedar on the north
side, and so holdeth on till it fall into the sea, after a few
windlesses which it maketh as it passeth. After this we come to
Traith vehan, which is the fall of the Drurid, a pretie riuer
comming from the marches of Caernaruonshire, which passing by
Festimog, soone after taketh in the Cunwell, then the Velenrid;
and so holdeth on to Deckoin, where it falleth into the said Traith.
For of the other two rilles that lie by south hereof, and haue
their issue also into the same, I make but small accompt, bicause
[Sidenote: Farles.]
their quantitie is not great. Next vnto this we haue Traith mawr,
whereinto the Farles hath his issue, a riuer proceeding from
Snowdonie or the Snowdon hils, descending by Bethkelerke and
Lanwrothen, without mixture of anie other water in all his course
and passage. It is parcell of the march also betwéene Merioneth
and Caernaruon shires. From Traith mawr we passe by the Krekith,
and come to another water descending from the north by Lanstidwie,
and after that to the Moie, whose mouthes are so néere togither,
that no more than halfe a mile of the land dooth seeme to kéepe
them in sunder.

[Sidenote: Erke.]
Then come we vnto the Erke, a pretie brooke descending from Madrijn
hils, into whose mouth two other of no lesse quantitie than it
selfe doo séeme to haue their confluence, and whose courses doo
come along from the west and northwest; the most southerlie being
called Girch, and the other the Hellie: except my memorie doo faile
[Sidenote: Soch.]
me. Then casting about toward the south (as the coast lieth) we
saw the Abersoch or mouth of the Soch riuer vpon our right hand,
in the mouth whereof, or not farre by south thereof lie two Ilands,
of which the more northerlie is called Tudfall, and the other
Penrijn: as Leland did obserue. I would set downe the British
names of such townes and villages as these waters passe by; but
the writing of them (for want of the language) is so hard to me,
that I choose rather to shew their falles and risings, than to
corrupt their denominations in the writing: and yet now and then
I vse such words as our Englishmen doo giue vnto some of them, but
that is not often, where the British name is easie to be found out
and sounded.

After this, going about by the point, and leauing Gwelin Ile on
[Sidenote: Daron.]
the right hand, we come to Daron riuer, wherevpon standeth Aberdaron
a quarter of a mile from the shore betwixt Aberdaron and Vortigernes
[Sidenote: Edarne beck.]
vale, where the compasse of the sea gathereth in a head, and entereth
at both ends. Then come we about the point to Edarne becke, a mile
and more south of Newin. And ten or twelue miles from hence is the
Vennie brooke, whose course is little aboue so manie miles; and
not farre from it is the Liuan, a farre lesse water, comming also
from the east: and next vnto that another, wherinto the Willie by
south and the Carrog by north after their coniunction doo make
their common influence. Hauing passed this riuer, we cast about
toward the north east, and enter at Abermenaie ferrie, into the
streicts or streame called Menaie, betweene Angleseie and the maine,
méeting first of all with the Gornaie, which commeth from the
Snowdonie out of the Treuennian lake, and passeth by Lanunda into
the sea or Menaie streame at Southcrocke. Next of all we meet with
the Saint, which commeth from Lin Lanbereie, passeth by Lanihangle,
and so falleth into the Menaie at Abersaint, which is on the
southwest side of Caernaruon: on the other side also of the said
towne is the Skeuernocke, whereby it standeth betweene two riuers,
of which this hath his head not farre from Dinas Orueg.

Then come we (saith Leland) to Gwiniwith mirith (or Horsse brooke)
two miles from Moilethon, and it riseth at a Well so called full
[Sidenote: Conte.]
a mile from thence. Moilethon is a bowe shot from Aberpowle, from
whence ferrie botes go to the Termone or Angleseie. Aberpowle
runneth thrée miles into the land, and hath his head foure miles
beyond Bangor in Meneie shore: and here is a little comming in for
[Sidenote: Gegeine.]
botes bending into the Meneie. Aber Gegeine commeth out of a
mounteine a mile aboue, and Bangor (thorough which a rill called
[Sidenote: Torronnen.]
Torronnen hath his course) almost a mile aboue it. Aber Ogwine is
[Sidenote: Ogwine.]
two miles aboue that; it riseth at Tale linne, Ogwine poole, fiue
[Sidenote: Auon.]
miles aboue Bangor in the east side of Withow. Aber Auon is two
miles aboue Aberogwene, and it riseth in a poole called Lin man
[Sidenote: Lannar.]
[Sidenote: Vehan.]
Auon, thrée miles off. Auon lan var Vehan riseth in a mounteine
[Sidenote: Duegeuelth.]
therby, and goeth into the sea, two miles aboue Duegeuelth. Auon
Duegeuelth is three miles aboue Conweie, which rising in the
mounteins a mile off, goeth by it selfe into Meneie salt arme. On
the said shore also lieth Conweie, and this riuer dooth run betwixt
Penmaine Maur, and Penmaine Vehan. It riseth about three miles
from Penmaclon hils which lie about sixtie miles from Conweie
abbeie, now dissolued out of a lake called Lin Conweie, and on the
north and west of this riuer standeth the towne of Conweie, which
taketh his name thereof.

[Sidenote: Téec.]
This riuer (which Ptolomie calleth Toesobius, as I take it) after
the deriuation thereof from the head, passeth on the west side by
Spittieuan and Tiherio, beneath which it taketh in a streame comming
from the east out of Denbighshire, deriued from thrée heads, and
of the greatest called Nag. Soone after also another, and then the
third, which commeth in from the west by Lanpen Mawr: next of all
the Leder on the same side, which commeth by Dolathelan castell:
and aboue that from a Lin of the same denomination. Beneath this
[Sidenote: Ligow.]
and selfe hand lieth likewise the Ligow or Ligwie, proceeding from
two lakes, that is, the Mumber and the Ligow. On the right hand as
we still descend, is the Coid, then the Glin, & a little lower we
méet with the Lin Gerioneth: and after we be past another on the
right side, we come to the Perloid, which commeth out of Lin Cowlid,
to the Ygan, to the Idulin, to the castell Water on the left, &
then to the Melandider on the right, without the sight of anie
other, till we come almost to Conweie, where we find a notched
streame comming from by west, and called Guffen or Gyffin into the
same by one chanell on the northeast side of the towne, beneath
Guffin or Gyffin, and ouer against Lansanfraid in Denbighshire; so
farre as I now remember. Some part of Carnaruonshire stretcheth
[Sidenote: Ormeshed.]
also beyond Aber Conweie, or the fall of Conweie, & it is called
Ormeshed point, wherein also is a rill, whose fall into the sea is
betwéene Penrin and Landright. And thus we haue made an end of the
chéefe waters which are to be found in this countie.

The next is a corner of Denbigh, by which we doo as it were step
ouer into Flintshire, and whose first water is not great, yet it
commeth from southwest, and falleth into the north or Irish sea
called Virginium, beneath Landilas; as the next that commeth south
[Sidenote: Gele.]
from Bettas dooth the like thrée miles beneath Abergele, and is
not onelie called Gele (as the name it selfe importeth) but also
noted to take his course through the Canges. Hauing thus gone ouer
the angle of Denbighshire, that lieth betwéene those of Carnaruon
and Flint, we come next of all vnto Aber Cluide, or the fall of
Clotha or Glota, which is a streame not to be shortlie intreated
of. It riseth among certeine hilles, which lie not far distant from
the confines of Merioneth and Denbighshires. Southeast from his
[Sidenote: Maniton.]
fall, and hauing run foure or fiue miles from the head, it commeth
about to Darwen, taking in the Maniton on the left hand, and the
Mespin on the right: and soone after the third from bywest, whose
head is not farre from Gloucanocke. Beneath Ruthen also it taketh
in the Leueneie: and after that another, and the third, all on the
[Sidenote: Cluedoch.]
right hand, and so holdeth on till it méet with the Cluedoch, then
with the Ystrade, which passeth by Whitchurch on the left hand.
After which we come to the Whéeler on the right, and so to his
[Sidenote: Elwie.]
ioining with the Elwie, which is beneath S. Asaphes, a bishops sée
that is inuironed with them both. This Elwie riseth aboue Gwitherne,
& beneath Lanuair taketh in the Alode, which commeth from lin Alode,
by Lansannan, and ioineth with him fiue miles beneath Langrenew.
The Cluda therefore and the Elwie being met, the confluence passeth
on to the sea by Rutland castell, where it taketh in the Sarne,
which commeth from by east, and hath a course almost of sixteene
miles. From hence we tooke sea toward the Dée mouth: and as we
passed by the rest of the shore, we saw the fall of a little brooke
néere Basing Werke, of another néere to Flint, of the third at
Yowleie castell, which with his two armes in maner includeth it;
and the fourth beneath Hawarden hold, which in like sort goeth
round about the same, & from whence we came to the Dée, where we
landed and tooke vp our lodging in Chester. In this place also it
was no hard matter to deliuer & set downe the names of such riuers
and streames as are also to be found in Angleseie, finding my selfe
to haue some leasure and fit opportunitie for the same: and imagining
a iourneie thither also, as vnto the other places mentioned in this
description, whither as yet it hath not béene my hap to trauell:
I thought it not amisse to take it also in hand, and performe it
after this maner.

Ferrieng therefore ouer out of Carnaruonshire to Beaumarise, I went
by land without crossing of anie riuer or streame worthie memorie,
till I came to the Brant, which hath his fall not farre from the
southest point of that Iland. This Brant riseth farre vp in the
land, not farre from Lauredenell, and holding on his course southward
to Lanthoniell Vaall, it goeth on to Bodoweruch, Langainwen, and
so into the sea.

The next fall we came vnto was called Maltrath, and it is producted
by the confluence of two riuers, the Geuennie and the Gint, who
ioine not farre from Langrestoll. This also last rehearsed hath
his head neere to Penmoneth, the other being forked riseth in the
hillie soile aboue Tregaion and Langwithlog: so that part of the
[Sidenote: Fraw.]
Iland obteineth no small commoditie and benefit by their passage.
Next vnto this we came vnto the Fraw, whose head is neere to
Langinewen, and passage by Cap Maer; after which it falleth into
a lake, from whence it goeth east of Aberfraw, and so into the sea.
The next riuer hath no name to my knowledge: yet hath it a longer
course than that which I last described. For it riseth two or thrée
miles aboue Haneglosse: and passing from thence to Treualghmaie,
after the descent of foure miles, it falleth into the sea. After
this we came to an other, which riseth more to Cap legan ferwie,
and falleth into the sea; southeast of the little Iland, which is
called Ynis Wealt, it is namelesse also as the other was: and
therefore hauing small delight to write thereof, we passed ouer
the salt créeke by a bridge into Cair Kibie, which by the same, is
as it were cut from the maine Iland, and in some respect not
vnworthie to be taken for an Ile. In the north side therefore of
Cair Kibie is a little rill or créeke: but whether the water thereof
be fresh or salt, as yet I doo not remember.

This place being viewed, I came backe againe by the aforesaid
bridge, into the maine of Angleseie, and going northwards I find
a fall inforced by thrée riuerets, each one hauing his course almost
south from other; and the last falling into the confluence of the
two first, not halfe a mile from the west, where I first espied
[Sidenote: Linon.]
[Sidenote: Allo.]
the streame: the name of the most northerlie is Linon, of the second
Allo; but the third is altogither namelesse for aught that I can
learne, wherefore it shall not be necessarie to spend anie time in
the further searching of his course. Being past this, we went
northwards till we came to the point, and then going eastward, we
butted vpon the fall of a certeine confluence growing by the ioining
of the Nathanon and the Geger, which méet beneath and néere to the
Langechell. And after the same we passed on somewhat declining
southward by the Hillarie point, toward the southeast, till we came
to the Dulesse: and from thence to Pentraeth water: after which we
turned northward, then eastward; and finallie southward, till we
came to Langurdin; from whence vnto Beaumarise (where began our
voiage) we find not anie water worthie to be remembred. And thence
I go forward with the description of the Dee.

[Sidenote: Dée or Deua.]
The Dee or Deua (as Ptolomie calleth it) is a noble riuer, & breeder
of the best trout, whose head is in Merioneth shire, about thrée
miles aboue the lake, situate in the countie of Penthlin, and called
Lin Tegnis, whose streame yet verie small, by reason of the shortnesse
of his course, falleth into the said lake, not far from Lanullin.
There are sundrie other waters which come also into the said lake,
which is foure or five miles in length, and about two miles ouer;
as one from by south, whose fall is east, and not manie furlongs
from the Dee: another hath his issue into the same by Langower:
the third on the north side of Lanullin, named Leie: the fourth
[Sidenote: Trowerin.]
Glanlintegid called Jauerne, the lake it selfe ending about Bala,
and from thence running into the Trowerin, a pretie streame, and
not a little augmented by the Kelme and Monach which fall by north
into the same, and ioineth with the Dée south of Lanuair; from
whence forth it looseth the name, and is afterward called Dée.
[Sidenote: Ruddoch.]
[Sidenote: Cleton.]
East of Bala in like sort it receiueth the Ruddoch, then the Cleton,
and so passing on by Landright to Langar, it méeteth with a confluence
procéeding from the Alwen and the Giron, of which this riseth in
the hils aboue Langham, the other in the mounteines about fiue or
six miles by northwest of Lanihangle in Denbighshire, where (as I
gesse) it falleth into the ground; and afterward rising againe
betwéene Lanihangle and Bettus, it holdeth on about two miles, and
then ioineth with the Giron, full six miles aboue Dole, and before
it come to the Dee. From hence the Dee goeth by Lansanfraid, and
the marches of Merioneth into Denbighshire, and so to Langellon,
[Sidenote: Gristioneth.]
Dinas, Bren, &c: kéeping his course by certeine windlesses, till
he receiue the Gristioneth, descending by Ruabon, then another est
[Sidenote: Keriog.]
of the same; the third from by west called Keriog (whose head is
not farre from the bounds of Merioneth and course by Lanarmon,
Lansanfraid, and Chirke) the fourth from south east out of Shropshire,
called Morlais, and so passeth as bounds betwéene Denbighshire,
and the Outliggand of Flintshire, to wit by Bistocke on the one
side and Bangor on the other, till it come to Worthenburie: whereabout
it receiueth a chanell descending from foure influences, of which
one commeth by Penlie chappell, the second from Hamnere, which
goeth downe by Emberhall, and falleth in a little by east of the
other; the third from Blackmere (by Whitchurch) &c: and the fourth
from betwéene Chad and Worsall. These two later méeting aboue nether
Durtwich, doo hold on to Talerne, as mine information instructeth
me.

From Wrothenburie the Dee goeth northwestwards toward Shocklige,
[Sidenote: Cluedoch.]
méeting by the waie with the confluence of the Cluedoch (or Dedoch
[Sidenote: Gwinrogh.]
originall mother to those trouts for which the Dée is commended)
and descendeth from Capell Moinglath) and the Gwinrogh, that runneth
through Wrexham, both ioining a mile and more beneath Wrexham, not
far from Hantwerne. Soone after also our maine riuer receiueth
another becke from by east, which is bound on the northwest side
to the Outliggand of Flintshire, and so passeth on betwéene Holt
castell and Ferneton, Almere and Pulton, as march betwéene Denbighshire
[Sidenote: Alannus.]
and Cheshire, and then taketh in the Alannus or Alen; a pretie
riuer and worthie to be described. The head of this Alen therefore
is in Denbighshire, and so disposed that it riseth in two seuerall
places, ech being two miles from other, the one called Alen Mawr,
the other Alen Vehan, as I doo find reported. They méet also beneath
Landegleie, and run northwards till they come beyond Lanuerres,
where meeting with a rill comming from by west, it runneth on to
the Mold to Horsheth, and so in and out to Greseford, taking the
Cagidog from southwest with it by the waie; then to Traue Alen,
and so into the Dée, a mile and more aboue the fall of Powton becke,
which also descendeth from southwest out of Flintshire, and is
march vnto the same, euen from the verie head. After which confluence
the Dée hauing Chestershire on both sides, goeth to Aldford with
a swift course, where it méeteth with the Beston brooke, whereof
I doo find this description following.

[Sidenote: Beston.]
"The Beston water riseth in the wooddie soile betwéene Spruston
and Beston castell with a forked head, and leauing Beston towne on
the northeast, it goeth to Tarneton, and to Hakesleie, where it
diuideth it selfe in such wise, that one branch thereof runneth by
Totnall, Goldburne, and Léehall, to Alford, and so into the Dée,
the other by Stapleford, Terwine, Barrow, Picton, and Therton,
where it brancheth againe, sending foorth one arme by Stanneie
poole, and the parke side into Merseie arme, toward the northwest,
and another by southwest, which commeth as it were backe againe,
by Stoke, Croughton, Backeford, Charleton, Vpton, the Baites, and
so vnder a bridge to Chester ward, where it falleth into the Dée
arme at Flockes brooke, excluding Wirall on the northwest as an
Iland, which lieth out like a leg betwéene the Merseie and the Dée
armes, and including and making another fresh Iland within the
same, whose limits by northwest are betwéene Thorneton, Chester,
& Aldford, on the northeast Thorneton and Hakesleie, and on the
southeast Hakesleie and Aldford, whereby the forme thereof dooth
in part resemble a triangle." And thus much of the Dee, which is
a troublesome streame when the wind is at southwest, and verie
dangerous, in so much that few dare passe thereon. Sometimes also
in haruest time it sendeth downe such store of water, when the wind
bloweth in the same quarter, that it drowneth all their grasse and
corne that groweth in the lower grounds néere vnto the bankes
thereof. Certes it is about thrée hundred foot, at his departure
from the Tignie, and worthilie called a litigious streame; because
that by often alteration of chanell, it inforceth men to séeke new
bounds vnto their lands, for here it laieth new ground, and there
translateth and taketh awaie the old, so that there is nothing more
vnconstant than the course of the said water. Of the monasterie
Bangor also, by which it passeth after it hath left Orton bridge,
I find this note, which I will not omit, because of the slaughter
of monks made sometime néere vnto the same. For although the place
require it not, yet I am not willing altogither to omit it.

[Sidenote: The situation of the monasterie of Bangor.]
This abbeie of Bangor stood sometime in English Mailor, by hither
and south of the riuer Dée. It is now ploughed ground where that
house stood, by the space of a Welsh mile (which reacheth vnto a
mile and an halfe English) and to this day the tillers of the soile
there doo plow vp bones (as they saie) of those monks that were
slaine in the quarrell of Augustine, and within the memorie of man
some of them were taken vp in their rotten weeds, which were much
like vnto those of our late blacke monks, as Leland set it downe:
yet Erasmus is of the opinion, that the apparell of the Benedictine
monks was such as most men did weare generallie at their first
institution. But to proceed. This abbeie stood in a valleie, and
in those times the riuer ran hard by it. The compasse thereof
likewise was as the circuit of a walled towne, and to this daie
two of the gates may easilie be discerned, of which the one is
named Port Hogan lieng by north, the other Port Clais situat vpon
the south. But the Dée hauing now changed his chanell, runneth
through the verie middest of the house betwixt those two gates,
the one being at the left a full halfe mile from the other. As for
the squared stone that is found hereabout, and the Romane coine,
there is no such necessitie of the rehersall therof, but that I
may passe it ouer well inough without anie further mention.

Being past the Dée we sailed about Wirall, passing by Hibrie or
Hilbrée Iland, and Leuerpole, Nasse, making our entrie into Merseie
arme by Leuerpole hauen, where we find a water falling out betwéene
Seacombe and the Ferie, which dooth in maner cut off the point from
the maine of Wirall. For rising néere to the northwest shore, it
holdeth a course directlie toward the southeast by Wallaseie and
Poton, and so leaueth all the north part beyond that water a
peninsula, the same being three square, inuironed on two sides with
the Ocean, & on the third with the aforesaid brooke, whose course
is well néere three miles except I be deceiued. From hence entring
further into the hauen, we find another fall betwéene Bebington
and Brombro chappell, descending from the hilles, which are seene
[Sidenote: Wiuer.]
to lie not farre from the shore, and thence crossing the fall of
the Beston water, we come next of all vnto the Wiuer, than the
which I read of no riuer in England that fetcheth more or halfe so
many windlesses and crinklings, before it come at the sea. It riseth
at Buckle hilles, which lie betwéene Ridleie and Buckle townes,
and soone after making a lake of a mile & more in length called
Ridleie poole, it runneth by Ridleie to Chalmondlie.

Thence it goeth to Wrenburie, where it taketh in a water out of a
[Sidenote: Combrus.]
moore that commeth from Marburie: and beneth Sandford bridge the
Combrus from Combermer or Comber lake: and finallie the third that
commeth from about Moneton, and runneth by Langerslaw, then betweene
Shenton and Atherlie parkes, and so into the Wiuer, which watereth
all the west part of England, and is no lesse notable than the fift
Auon or third Ouze, whereof I haue spoken alreadie. After these
confluences it hasteth also to Audlem, Hawklow, and at Barderton
[Sidenote: Betleie.]
crosseth the Betleie water, that runneth by Duddington, Widdenberie,
and so by Barderton into the aforesaid streame. Thence it goeth to
[Sidenote: Salop.]
Nantwich, but yer it come at Marchford bridge, it meeteth with a
[Sidenote: Lée and Wuluarne.]
rill called Salopbrooke (as I gesse) comming from Caluerleie ward,
and likewise beneath the said bridge, with the Lée and the Wuluarne
both in one chanell, wherof the first riseth at Weston, the other
goeth by Copnall. From hence the Wiuer runneth on to Minchion and
[Sidenote: Ashe.]
Cardeswijc, and the next water that falleth into it is the Ashe
(which passeth by Darnall Grange) and afterward going to Warke,
the vale Roiall, and Eaton, it commeth finallie to Northwich where
[Sidenote: Dane.]
it receiueth the Dane, to be described as followeth. The Dane riseth
in the verie edges of Chester, Darbishire, & Staffordshire, and
comming by Warneford, Swithamleie and Bosleie, is a limit betwéene
Stafford and Darbie shires, almost euen from the verie head, which
is in Maxwell forrest.

[Sidenote: Bidle.]
It is not long also yer it doo méet with the Bidle water, that
commeth by Congerton, and after the confluence goeth vnto Swetham,
[Sidenote: Whelocke.]
the Heremitage, Cotton and Croxton, there taking in two great
waters, whereof the one is called Whelocke, which comming from the
edge of the countie by Morton to Sandbach, crosseth another that
descended from church Cawlhton, and after the confluence goeth to
Warmingham, ioining also beneath Midlewish with the Croco or
Croxston, the second great water, whose head commeth out of a lake
[Sidenote: Croco.]
aboue Bruerton (as I heare) and thence both the Whelocke and the
Croco go as one vnto the Dane, at Croxton, as the Dane dooth from
thence to Bostocke, Dauenham, Shebruch, Shurlach, and at Northwich
into the foresaid Wiuer. After this confluence the Wiuer runneth
on to Barneton, and there in like sort receiueth two brookes in
one chanell, whereof one commeth from aboue Allostocke, by Holme
[Sidenote: Piuereie.]
& Lastocke, the other from beyond Birtles mill, by Chelford (where
it taketh in a rill called Piuereie) thence to ouer Peuer, Holford,
[Sidenote: Waterlesse.]
and there crossing the Waterlesse brooke (growing of two becks and
ioining at nether Tableie) it goeth foorth to Winshambridge, and
then méeting with the other, after this confluence they procéed
till they come almost at Barneton, where the said chanell ioineth
with a pretie water running thorough two lakes, whereof the greatest
lieth betwéene Comberbach, Rudworth and Marburie. But to go forward
with the course of the maine riuer. After these confluences our
Wiuer goeth to Warham, Actonbridge, and Dutton, ouer against which
towne, on the other side it méeteth with a rill, comming from
Cuddington: also the second going by Norleie, and Gritton, finallie
the third soone after from Kimsleie, and then procéedeth on in his
passage by Asheton chappell, Frodesham, Rockesauage, and so into
the sea: and this is all that I doo find of the Wiuer, whose
influences might haue beene more largelie set downe, if mine
iniunctions had béene amplie deliuered, yet this I hope may suffice
for his description, and knowledge of his course.

[Sidenote: Merseie.]
The Merseie riseth among the Peke hils, and from thence going downe
to the Woodhouse, and taking sundrie rilles withall by the waie,
[Sidenote: Goite.]
it becommeth the confines betwéene Chester and Darbishires. Going
also toward Goitehall, it meeteth with a faire brooke increased by
sundrie waters called Goite, whereof I find this short and briefe
description. The Goite riseth not far from the Shire méere hill
(wherein the Doue and the Dane haue their originall) that parteth
Darbishire and Chestershire in sunder, and thence commeth downe to
[Sidenote: Frith.]
Goite houses, Ouerton, Taxhall, Shawcrosse, and at Weibridge taketh
[Sidenote: Set.]
in the Frith, and beneath Berdhall, the Set that riseth aboue
Thersethall and runneth by Ouerset. After this confluence also the
[Sidenote: Tame.]
Merseie goeth to Goite hall, & at Stockford or Stopford towne
méeteth with the Tame, which diuideth Chestershire and Lancastershire
in sunder, and whose head is in the verie edge of Yorkeshire, from
whence it goeth southward to Sadleworth Firth, then to Mukelhirst,
Stalie hall, Ashdon Vnderline, Dunkenfield, Denton, Reddish, and
so at Stockford into the Merseie streame, which passeth foorth in
like sort to Diddesbirie, receiuing a brooke by the waie that
commeth from Lime parke, by Brumhall parke and Chedle.

[Sidenote: Irwell.]
From Diddesbirie it procéedeth to Norden, Ashton, Aiston, Flixston,
where it receiueth the Irwell a notable water, and therefore his
description is not to be omitted before I doo go forward anie
further with the Merseie, although it be not nauigable by reason
of sundrie rockes and shalowes that lie dispersed in the same. It
riseth aboue Bacop, and goeth thence to Rosendale, and in the waie
to Aitenfield it taketh in a water from Haselden. After this
[Sidenote: Raeus, or Rache.]
confluence it goeth to Newhall, Brandlesham, Brurie, and aboue
Ratcliffe ioineth with the Rache water, a faire streame and to be
described when I haue finished the Irwell, as also the next vnto
it beneath Ratcliffe, bicause I would not haue so manie ends at
once in hand wherewith to trouble my readers. Being therfore past
[Sidenote: Leland speaketh of the Corue water about Manchester; but I
know nothing of his course.]
[Sidenote: Yrke.]
these two, our Irwell goeth on to Clifton, Hollond, Edgecroft,
Strengwaies, and to Manchester, where it vniteth it selfe with the
Yrke, that runneth thereinto by Roiton Midleton, Heaton hill, and
[Sidenote: Medlockte.]
Blackeleie. Beneath Manchester also it méeteth with the Medlocke
that commeth thither from the northeast side of Oldham, and betwéene,
Claiton and Garret Halles, and so betwéene two parkes, falling into
it about Holne. Thence our Irwell going forward to Woodsall,
Whicleswijc, Ecles, Barton, and Deuelhom, it falleth néere vnto
Flixton, into the water of Merseie, where I will staie a while
withall, till I haue brought the other vnto some passe, of which
I spake before.

[Sidenote: Rache.]
The Rache, Rech or Rish consisteth of sundrie waters, whereof ech
one in maner hath a proper name, but the greatest of all is Rache
[Sidenote: Beile.]
it selfe, which riseth among the blacke stonie hils, from whence
it goeth to Littlebrough, and being past Clegge, receiueth the
Beile, that commeth thither by Milneraw chappell. After this
[Sidenote: Sprotton.]
[Sidenote: Sudleie.]
confluence also, it méeteth with a rill néere vnto Rachedale, and
soone after with the Sprotton water, and then the Sudleie brooke,
whereby his chanell is not a little increased, which goeth from
[Sidenote: Bradsha.]
thence to Grisehirst and so into the Irwell, before it come at
Ratcliffe. The second streame is called Bradsha. It riseth of two
heds, aboue Tureton churth, whence it runneth to Bradsha, and yer
long taking in the Walmesleie becke, they go in one chanell till
[Sidenote: Walmesleie.]
they come beneath Bolton in the More. From hence (receiuing a
water that commeth from the roots of Rauenpike hill by the way) it
goeth by Deane and Bolton in the More, and so into Bradsha water,
which taketh his waie to Leuermore, Farnworth, Leuerlesse, and
finallie into the Irwell, which I before described, and whereof I
find these two verses to be added at the last:

  Irke, Irwell, Medlocke, and Tame,
  When they meet with the Merseie, do loose their name.

Now therefore to resume our Merseie, you shall vnderstand that
[Sidenote: Gles.]
after his confluence with the Irwell, he runneth to Partington,
and not farre from thence interteineth the Gles, or Glesbrooke
water, increased with sundrie armes, wherof one commeth from Lodward,
another from aboue Houghton, the third from Hulton parke, and the
fourth from Shakerleie: and being all vnited néere vnto Leigh,
the confluence goeth to Holcroft, and aboue Holling gréene into
the swift Merseie. After this increase the said streame in like
[Sidenote: Bollein brooke.]
sort runneth to Rigston, & there admitteth the Bollein or Bolling
brooke water into his societie, which rising néere the Chamber in
Maxwell forrest goeth to Ridge, Sutton, Bollington, Prestbirie,
and Newton, where it taketh in a water comming from about Pot
Chappell, which runneth from thence by Adlington, Woodford, Wimesleie,
[Sidenote: Birkin.]
Ringeie, and Ashleie, there receiuing the Birkin brooke that commeth
[Sidenote: Mar.]
from betwéene Allerton and Marchall, by Mawberleie, and soone after
the Marus or Mar, that commeth thereinto from Mar towne, by Rawstorne,
and after these confluences goeth on to Downham, and ouer against
Rixton beneath Crosford bridge into the Merseie water, which
procéeding on, admitteth not another that méeteth with all néere
Lim before it go to Thelwall. Thence also it goeth by Bruche and
so to Warrington, a little beneath crossing a brooke that commeth
from Par by Browseie, Bradleie, and Saukeie on the one side, and
another on the other that commeth thither from Gropenhall, and with
these it runneth on to nether Walton, Acton grange, and so to
[Sidenote: Bold.]
[Sidenote: Grundich.]
Penkith, where it interteineth the Bold, and soone after the Grundich
water on the other side, that passeth by Preston, and Daresbirie.
Finallie our Merseie going by Moulton, it falleth into Lirepoole,
or as it was called of old Liuerpoole hauen, when it is past
Runcorne. And thus much of the Merseie, comparable vnto the Wiuer,
and of no lesse fame than most riuers of this Iland.

[Sidenote: Tarbocke.]
Being past these two, we come next of all to the Tarbocke water,
that falleth into the sea at Harbocke, without finding anie mo till
we be past all Wirall, out of Lirepoole hauen, and from the blacke
rockes that lie vpon the north point of the aforesaid Iland. Then
[Sidenote: Alt or Ast.]
come we to the Altmouth, whose fresh rising not far into the land,
commeth to Feston, and soone after receiuing another on the right
hand, that passeth into it by Aughton, it is increased no more
before it come at the sea. Neither find I anie other falles till
I méet with the mouth of the Yarrow and Duglesse, which haue their
[Sidenote: Duglesse or Dulesse.]
recourse to the sea in one chanell as I take it. The Duglesse
commeth from by west of Rauenspike hill, and yer long runneth by
Andertonford to Worthington, and so (taking in two or thrée rilles
by the waie) to Wigen, where it receiueth two waters in one chanell,
of which one commeth in south from Brin parke, the other from
northeast. Being past this, it receiueth one on the north side from
Standish, and another by south from Hollond, and then goeth on
[Sidenote: Taud or Skelmere.]
toward Rufford chappell taking the Taud withall, that descendeth
from aboue Skemersdale towne, and goeth through Lathan parke,
belonging (as I heare) vnto the earle of Derbie. It méeteth also
[Sidenote: Merton.]
on the same side, with Merton meere water, in which meere is one
Iland called Netholme beside other, and when it is past the hanging
bridge, it is not long yer it fall into the Yarrow.

[Sidenote: Yarrow.]
[Sidenote: Bagen.]
The Yarrow riseth of two heads, whereof the second is called Bagen
brooke, and making a confluence beneath Helbie wood, it goeth on
to Burgh, Eglestan, Crofton, and then ioineth next of all with the
Dugglesse, alter which confluence, the maine streame goeth foorth
to Bankehall, Charleton, How, Hesket, and so into the sea. Leland
Writing of the Yarrow, saith thus of the same, so farre as I now
remember. Into the Dugglesse also runneth the Yarrow, which commeth
within a mile or thereabout of Chorleton towne, that parteth
Lelandshire from Derbieshire. Vnder the foot of Chorle also I find
a rill named Ceorle, and about a mile and a halfe from thence a
notable quarreie of stones, whereof the inhabitants doo make a
great boast and price. And hitherto to Leland.

[Sidenote: Ribble.]
The Ribble, a riuer verie rich of salmon, and lampreie, dooth in
manner inuiron Preston in Andernesse, and it riseth neere to
Kibbesdale aboue Gisborne, from whence it goeth to Sawleie or
Salleie, Chathburne, Woodington, Clithero castell, and beneath
[Sidenote: Odder.]
Mitton méeteth the Odder at north west, which riseth not farre from
the crosse of Gréet in Yorkeshire, and going thence to Shilburne,
[Sidenote: Calder.]
Newton, Radholme parke, and Stonie hirst, it falleth yer long into
the Ribble water. From hence the Ribble water hath not gone farre,
but it méeteth with the Calder from southeast. This brooke riseth
aboue Holme church in Yorkeshire, which lieth by east of Lancastershire,
and going by Towleie and Burneleie, where it receiueth a trifling
[Sidenote: Pidle.]
rill, thence to Higham, and yer long crossing one water that commeth
from Wicoler by Colne, and another by and by named Pidle brooke,
that runneth by New church in the Pidle, it méeteth with the Calder,
which passeth foorth to Paniam; and thence receiuing a becke on
[Sidenote: Henburne.]
the other side, it runneth on to Altham, and so to Martholme, where
the Henburne brooke dooth ioine withall, that goeth by Akington
chappell, Dunkinhalgh, Rishton, and so into the Calder, as I haue
said before. The Calder therefore being thus inlarged, runneth
foorth to Reade, where maister Nowell dwelleth, to Whallie, and
soone after into Ribble, that goeth from this confluence to Salisburie
hall, Ribchester, Osbastin, Samburie, Keuerden, Law, Ribbles bridge,
[Sidenote: Darwent.]
&, then taketh in the Darwent, before it goeth by Pontwarth or
Pentwarth into the maine sea. The Darwent diuideth Lelandshire from
[Sidenote: Blackeburne.]
[Sidenote: Rodlesworth.]
Andernesse, and it riseth by east aboue Darwent chappell; and soone
after vniting it selfe with the Blackeburne, and Rodlesworth water,
it goeth through Houghton parke, by Houghton towne, to Walton hall,
[Sidenote: Sannocke.]
and so into the Ribble. As for the Sannocke brooke, it riseth
somewhat aboue Longridge chappell, goeth to Broughton towne, Cotham,
Lée hall, and so into Ribble. And here is all that I haue to saie
of this riuer.

[Sidenote: Wire.]
The Wire riseth eight or ten miles from Garstan, out of an hill in
Wiresdale forrest, from whence it runneth by Shireshed chappell,
and then going by Wadland, or Waddiler, Grenelaw castell (which
belongeth to the erle of Darbie) Garstan, and Kirkland hall, it
[Sidenote: Calder. 2.]
first receiueth the second Calder, that commeth downe by Edmerseie
chappell, then another chanell increased with sundrie waters, which
[Sidenote: Plimpton.]
I will here describe before I procéed anie further with the Wire.
I suppose that the first water is called Plimpton brooke, it riseth
[Sidenote: Barton.]
south of Gosner, and commeth by Cawford hall, and yer long receiuing
[Sidenote: Brooke.]
the Barton becke, it procéedeth forward till it ioineth with the
Brooke rill that commeth from Bowland forrest, by Claughton hall,
where master Brookehales dooth lie, & so through Mersco forrest.
After this confluence the Plime or Plimpton water méeteth with the
Calder, and then with the Wire, which passeth foorth to Michaell
[Sidenote: Skipton.]
church, and the Raw cliffes, and aboue Thorneton crosseth the
Skipton that goeth by Potton, then into the Wire rode, and finallie
through the sands into the sea, according to his nature. When we
[Sidenote: Coker.]
were past the fall of the Wire, we coasted vp by the salt cotes,
to Coker mouth, whose head, though it be in Weresdale forrest, not
far from that of the Wire, yet the shortnesse of course deserueth
[Sidenote: Cowdar.]
no description. The next is Cowdar, which is comming out of Wire
dale, as I take it, is not increased with anie other waters more
than Coker, and therefore I will rid my hands thereof so much the
sooner.

[Sidenote: Lune.]
Being past these two, I came to a notable riuer called the Lune or
Loine, or (as the booke of statutes hath) Lonwire Anno 13 Ric. 2.
cap. 19, and giueth name to Lancaster, Lonecaster, or Lunecaster,
where much Romane monie is found, and that of diuerse stamps, whose
course dooth rest to be described as followeth; and whereof I haue
two descriptions. The first being set downe by Leland, as master
Moore of Catharine hall in Cambridge deliuered it vnto him. The
next I exhibit as it was giuen vnto me, by one that hath taken
paines (as he saith) to search out and view the same, but verie
latelie to speake of. The Lune (saith master Moore) of some commonlie
called the Loine, riseth at Crosseho, in Dent dale, in the edge of
Richmondshire out of thrée heads. North also from Dent dale is
Garsdale, an vplandish towne, wherein are séene manie times great
store of red déere that come downe to feed from the mounteins into
the vallies, and thereby runneth a water, which afterward commeth
to Sebbar vale, where likewise is a brooke méeting with Garsdale
water, so that a little lower they go as one into Dent dale becke,
which is the riuer that afterward is called Lune, or Lane, as I
haue verie often noted it. Beside these waters also before mentioned,
it receiueth at the foot of Sebbar vale, a great brooke, which
commeth out of the Worth, betwéene Westmerland and Richmondshire,
which taking with him the aforesaid chanels, dooth run seauen miles
yer it come to Dent dale foot. From hence it entreth into Lansdale,
corruptlie so called, peraduenture for Lunesdale, & runneth therein
eight or nine miles southward, and in this dale is Kirbie. Hitherto
master Moore, as Leland hath exemplified that parcell of his letters.
[Sidenote: Burbecke.]
But mine other note writeth hereof in this manner. Burbecke water
[Sidenote: Breder.]
riseth at Wustall head, by west, and going by Wustall foot to
Skaleg, it admitteth the Breder that descendeth thither from Breder
dale. From hence our Burbecke goeth to Breder dale foot, & so to
Tibarie, where it méeteth with foure rilles in one bottome, of
which one commeth from besides Orton, another from betwéene Rasebecke
and Sunbiggin, the third and fourth from each side of Langdale:
and after the generall confluence made, goeth toward Roundswath,
[Sidenote: Barrow.]
aboue which it vniteth it selfe with the Barrow. Thence it runneth
to Howgill, Delaker, Firrebanke, and Killington, beneath which it
[Sidenote: Dent.]
meeteth with a water comming from the Moruill hilles, and afterward
crossing the Dent brooke, that runneth thither from Dent towne,
beneath Sebbar, they continue their course as one into the Burbecke,
from whence it is called Lune. From hence it goeth to Burbon
chappell, where it taketh in another rill comming from by east,
then to Kirbie, Lansbele, and aboue Whittenton crosseth a brooke
[Sidenote: Greteie.]
comming from the countie stone by Burros, and soone after beneath
Tunstall and Greteie, which descending from about Ingelborow hill,
passeth by Twiselton, Ingleton, Thorneton, Burton, Wratton, and
néere Thurland castell, toucheth finallie with the Lune, which
brancheth, and soone after vniteth it selfe againe. After this also
[Sidenote: Wennie.]
[Sidenote: Hinburne.]
it goeth on toward New parke, and receiueth the Wennie, and the
Hinburne both in one chanell, of which this riseth north of the
[Sidenote: Rheburne.]
crosse of Greteie, and going by Benthams and Roberts hill, aboue
Wraie taketh in the Rheburne that riseth north of Wulfecrag. After
this confluence also aboue New parke, it maketh his gate by Aughton,
Laughton, Skirton, Lancaster, Excliffe, Awcliffe, Soddaie, Orton,
and so into the sea. Thus haue you both the descriptions of Lune,
make your conference or election at your pleasure, for I am sworne
to neither of them both.

[Sidenote: Docker.]
The next fall is called Docker, and peraduenture the same that
[Sidenote: Kerie.]
Leland dooth call the Kerie, which is not farre from Wharton, where
the rich Kitson was borne, it riseth north of Docker towne, and
going by Barwijc hall, it is not increased before it come at the
sea, where it falleth into the Lune Water at Lunesands. Next of
all we come to Bitham beck, which riseth not far from Bitham towne
and parke, in the hilles, where about are great numbers of goates
kept and mainteined, and by all likelihood resorteth in the end to
Linsands.

Being past this, we find a forked arme of the sea called Kensands:
into the first of which diuerse waters doo run in one chanell, as
it were from foure principall heads, one of them comming from
Grarrig hall, another from by west of Whinfield, & ioining with
[Sidenote: Sprota.]
the first on the east side of Skelmere parke. The third called
Sprot or Sprota riseth at Sloddale, & commeth downe by west of
Skelmer parke, so that these two brookes haue the aforesaid parke
betwéene them, & fall into the fourth east of Barneside, not verie
[Sidenote: Ken.]
farre in sunder. The fourth or last called Ken, commeth from
Kentmers side, out of Ken moore, in a poole of a mile compasse,
verie well stored with fish, the head whereof, as of all the baronie
of Kendall is in Westmerland, & going to Stauelope, it taketh in
a rill from Chappleton Inges. Then leauing Colnehead parke by
east, it passeth by Barneside, to Kendall, Helston, Sigath,
Siggeswijc, Leuenbridge, Milnethorpe, and so into the sea. Certes
this Ken is a pretie déepe riuer, and yet not safelie to be aduentured
vpon, with boates and balingers, by reason of rolling stones, &
other huge substances that oft annoie & trouble the middest of the
[Sidenote: Winstar.]
chanell there. The other péece of the forked arme, is called Winstar,
the hed wherof is aboue Winstar chappell, & going downe almost by
Carpmaunsell, & Netherslake, it is not long yer it fall into the
sea, or sands, for all this coast, & a gulfe from the Ramside point
to the Mealenasse, is so pestered with sands, that it is almost
incredible to sée how they increase. Those also which inuiron the
Kenmouth, are named Kensands: but such as receiue the descent from
the Fosse, Winander, and Sparke, are called Leuesands, as I find
by sufficient testimonie. The mouth or fall of the Dodon also is
not farre from this impechment: wherefore it is to be thought,
[Sidenote: Winander.]
that these issues will yer long become verie noisome, if not choked
vp altogither. The Winander water riseth about Cunbalrasestones,
from whence it goeth to Cangridge, where it maketh a méere: then
to Ambleside, and taking in yer it come there, two rilles on the
left hand, and one on the right that commeth by Clapergate, it
maketh (as I take it) the greatest méere, or fresh water in England;
for I read it is ten miles in length. Finallie, comming to one
small chanell aboue Newbridge, it reacheth not aboue six miles yer
it fall into the sea. There is in like sort a water, called the
[Sidenote: Fosse.]
Fosse that riseth néere vnto Arneside, and Tillerthwates, and goeth
foorth by Grisdale, Satrethwate, Rusland, Powbridge, Bowth, and so
falleth with the Winander water into the maine sea. On the west
side of the Fosse also commeth another through Furnesse felles,
and from the hilles by north thereof, which yer long making the
Thurstan lake not far from Hollinhow, and going by Bridge end, in
[Sidenote: Sparke.]
a narrow chanell, passeth foorth by Nibthwaits, Blareth, Cowlton,
& Sparke bridge, and so into the sea. Hauing passed the Leuen or
Conisands, or Conistonesands, or Winander fall (for all is one) I
[Sidenote: Lew.]
come to the Lew, which riseth at Cewike chappell, and falleth into
[Sidenote: Rawther.]
the sea beside Plumpton. The Rawther descending out of low Furnesse,
hath two heads, whereof one commeth from Penniton, the other by
Vlmerstone abbeie, and ioining both in one chanell, they hasten
into the sea, whither all waters direct their voiage. Then come we
to another rill southwest of Aldingham, descending by Glaiston
castell; and likewise the fourth that riseth néere Lindell, and
running by Dawlton castell and Furnesse abbeie, not farre from the
Barrow head, it falleth into the sea ouer against Waueie and Waueie
chappell, except mine aduertisements misleade me.

[Sidenote: Dodon.]
The Dodon, which from the head is bound vnto Cumberland and
Westmerland, commeth from the Shire stone hill bottome, and going
by Blackehill, Southwake, S. Iohns, Vffaie parke, & Broughton, it
falleth into the orltwater, betwéene Kirbie, and Mallum castell.
And thus are we now come vnto the Rauenglasse point, and well entred
into the Cumberland countie.

Comming to Rauenglasse, I find hard by the towne a water comming
[Sidenote: Denocke.]
from two heads, and both of them in lakes or pooles, whereof one
[Sidenote: Eske.]
issueth out of Denocke or Deuenocke méere, and is called Denocke
water, the other named Eske from Eske poole which runneth by
Eskedale, Dalegarth, and soone after meeting with the Denocke,
betwéene Mawburthwate and Rauenglasse, falleth into the sea. On
[Sidenote: Mit.]
the other side of Rauenglasse also commeth the Mite brooke, from
Miterdale as I read. Then find we another which commeth from the
hils, and at the first is forked, but soone after making a lake,
[Sidenote: Brenge.]
they gather againe into a smaller chanell: finallie meeting with
[Sidenote: Cander.]
the Brenge, they fall into the sea at Carleton southeast, as I
wéene of Drig. The Cander, or (as Leland nameth it) the Calder,
commeth out of Copeland forrest, by Cander, Sellefield, and so into
the sea. Then come we to Euer water, descending out of a poole
aboue Coswaldhow, and thence going by Euerdale, it crosseth a water
from Arladon, and after procéedeth to Egremond, S. Iohns, and taking
in another rill from Hide, it is not long yer it méeteth with the
sea.

The next fall is at Moresbie, whereof I haue no skill. From thence
[Sidenote: Dargwent.]
therefore we cast about by saint Bees to Derwentset hauen, whose
water is truelie written Dargwent or Deruent. It riseth in the hils
about Borrodale, from whence it goeth vnto the Grange, thence into
a lake, in which are certeine Ilands, and so vnto Keswijc, where
[Sidenote: Burthméere.]
it falleth into the Bure, whereof the said lake is called Bursemere,
or the Burthmere poole. In like sort the Bure or Burthmere water,
rising among the hils goeth to Tegburthesworth, Forneside, S. Iohns,
and Threlcote: and there méeting with a water from Grisdale, by
[Sidenote: Grise.]
Wakethwate, called Grise, it runneth to Burnesse, Keswijc, and
there receiueth the Darwent. From Keswijc in like sort it goeth to
[Sidenote: Cokar.]
Thorneswate (and there making a plash) to Armanswate, Isell, Huthwate
and Cokermouth, and here it receiueth the Cokar, which rising among
the hils commeth by Lowsewater, Brakenthwate, Lorton, and so to
Cokarmouth towne, from whence it hasteth to Bridgeham, and receiuing
a rill called the Wire, on the south side that runneth by Dein, it
leaueth Samburne and Wirketon behind it, and entereth into the sea.

[Sidenote: Wire.]
Leland saith that the Wire is a créeke where ships lie off at rode,
and that Wirketon or Wirkington towne dooth take his name thereof.
He addeth also that there is iron and coles, beside lead ore in
Wiredale. Neuerthelesse the water of this riuer is for the most
part sore troubled, as comming thorough a suddie or soddie more,
[Sidenote: Elmus.]
so that little good fish is said to liue therein. But to proceed.
The Elme riseth in the mines aboue Amautrée, and from Amautre goeth
to Yeresbie, Harbie, Brow, and there taking in a rill on the left
hand comming by Torpennie, it goeth to Hatton castell, Alwarbie,
Birthie, Dereham, and so into the sea. Thence we go about by the
chappell at the point, and come to a baie serued with two fresh
waters, whereof one rising westward goeth by Warton, Rabbie, Cotes,
[Sidenote: Croco.]
and so into the maine, taking in a rill withall from by south,
[Sidenote: Vamus.]
called Croco, that commeth from Crockdale, by Bromefield. The second
is named Wampoole brooke, & this riseth of two heads, whereof one
is about Cardew. Thence in like sort it goeth to Thuresbie, Croston,
Owton, Gamlesbie, Wampall, the Larth, and betwéene Whiteridge and
Kirbie into the saltwater. From hence we double the Bowlnesse, and
come to an estuarie, whither thrée notable riuers doo resort, and
this is named the Solueie mouth. But of all, the first excéedeth,
which is called Eden, and whose description dooth follow here at
hand.

[Sidenote: Eden.]
The Eden well fraught with samon, descendeth (as I heare) from the
hils in Athelstane moore at the foot of Hussiat Moruell hil, where
Swale also riseth, and southeast of Mallerstang forrest. From thence
in like maner it goeth to Mallerstang towne, Pendragon castell,
Wharton hall, Netbie, Hartleie castell, Kirkebie Stephan, and yer
[Sidenote: Helbecke.]
it come at great Musgrane, it receiueth thrée waters, whereof one
is called Helbecke, bicause it commeth from the Derne and Elinge
mounteins by a towne of the same denomination. The other is named
[Sidenote: Bellow.]
Bellow, and descendeth from the east mounteins by Sowarsbie, &
these two on the northeast: the third falleth from Rauenstandale,
[Sidenote: Orne.]
by Newbiggin, Smardale, Soulbie, Blaterne, and so into Eden, that
[Sidenote: Moreton.]
goeth from thence by Warcop; and taking in the Orne about Burelles
on the one side, and the Morton becke on the other, it hasteth to
[Sidenote: Dribecke.]
Applebie, thence to Cowlbie, where it crosseth the Dribecke, thence
[Sidenote: Trowt becke.]
[Sidenote: Liuenet.]
to Bolton, and Kirbie, and there méeting with the Trowt becke, and
beneath the same with the Liuenet (whereinto falleth an other water
from Thurenlie méeting withall beneath Clebron) it runneth finallie
[Sidenote: Milburne.]
into Eden. After the confluences also the Eden passeth to Temple,
[Sidenote: Blincorne.]
and soone after meeting with the Milburne and Blincorne waters, in
one chanell, it runneth to Winderwarth and Hornebie, where we will
staie till I haue described the water that meeteth withall néere
[Sidenote: Vlse.]
the aforesaid place called the Vlse.

This water commeth out of a lake, which is fed with six rils,
[Sidenote: Marke.]
whereof one is called the Marke, and néere the fall thereof into
[Sidenote: Harteshop.]
[Sidenote: Paterdale.]
the plash is a towne of the same name; the second hight Harteshop,
& runneth from Harteshop hall by Depedale; the third is Paterdale
[Sidenote: Roden.]
[Sidenote: Glenkguin.]
rill; the fourth Glent Roden, the fift Glenkguin, but the sixt
runneth into the said lake, south of Towthwate. Afterward when this
lake commeth toward Pole towne, it runneth into a small chanell,
& going by Barton, Dalumaine, it taketh in a rill by the waie from
Daker castell. Thence it goeth to Stockebridge, Yoneworth, and
[Sidenote: Loder.]
soone after méeteth with a pretie brooke called Loder, comming from
Thornethwate by Bauton, and héere a rill; then by Helton, and there
another; thence to Askham, Clifton, and so ioining with the other
called Vlse, they go to Brougham castell, Nine churches, Hornebie,
and so into Eden, taking in a rill (as it goeth) that commeth downe
from Pencath. Being past Hornebie, our Eden runneth to Langunbie,
and soone after receiuing a rill that commeth from two heads, and
ioining beneath Wingsell, it hasteth to Lasenbie, then to Kirke
Oswald (on ech side whereof commeth in a rill from by east) thence
to Nonneie, and there a rill, Anstable, Cotehill, Corbie castell,
Wetherall, Newbie: where I will staie, till I haue described the
Irding, and such waters as fall into the same before I go to
Carleill.

[Sidenote: Irding.]
The Irding ariseth in a moore in the borders of Tindale, néere vnto
[Sidenote: Terne.]
Horsse head crag, where it is called Terne becke; vntill it come
to Spicrag hill, that diuideth Northumberland and Gillesland in
sunder, from whence it is named Irding. Being therfore come to
[Sidenote: Pultrose.]
Ouerhall, it receiueth the Pultrose becke, by east, and thence
[Sidenote: Cambocke.]
goeth on to Ouerdenton, Netherdenton, Leuercost, and Castelstead,
where it taketh in the Cambocke, that runneth by Kirke Cambocke,
Askerton castell, Walton, and so into Irding, which goeth from
thence to Irdington, Newbie, & so into Eden. But a little before
[Sidenote: Gillie.]
it come there, it crosseth with the Gillie that commeth by Tankin,
and soone after falleth into it. After these confluences, our Eden
goeth to Linstocke castell, (and here it interteineth a brooke,
comming from Cotehill ward by Aglionbie) and then vnto Carleill,
which is now almost inuironed with foure waters.

[Sidenote: Pedar aliàs Logus.]
For beside the Eden it receiueth the Peder, which Leland calleth
Logus from southeast. This Peder riseth in the hils southwest of
Penruddocke, from whence it goeth to Penruddocke, then to Grastocke
castell, Cateleie, and Kenderside hall, and then taking in a water
from Vnthanke, it goeth to Cathwade, Pettrelwaie, Newbiggin,
Carleton, and so into Eden, northeast of Carleill. But on the north
[Sidenote: Bruferth.]
side the Bruferth brooke dooth swiftlie make his entrance, running
by Leuerdale, Scalbie castell, and Housedon; as I am informed. The
third is named Candan (if not Deua after Leland) which rising about
the Skidlow hils, runneth to Mosedale, Caldbecke, Warnell, Saberham,
Rose castell, Dawston, Brounston, Harrington, and west of Carleill
falleth into Eden, which going from thence by Grimsdale, Kirke
Andros, Beaumont, falleth into the sea beneath the Rowcliffe castell.
And thus much of the Eden, which Leland neuerthelesse describeth
after another sort, whose words I will not let to set downe here
in this place, as I find them in his commentaries.

[Sidenote: Vlse after Leland.]
The Eden, after it hath run a pretie space from his head, méeteth
in time with the Vlse water, which is a great brooke in Westmerland,
[Sidenote: Loder.]
and rising aboue Maredale, a mile west of Loder, it commeth by the
late dissolued house of Shappe priorie, thrée miles from Shappe,
and by Brampton village into Loder or Lodon. Certes this streame
within halfe a mile of the head, becommeth a great lake for two
miles course, and afterward waxing narrow againe, it runneth foorth
in a meane and indifferent bottome. The said Eden in like sort
[Sidenote: Aimote.]
receiueth the Aimote about thrée miles beneath Brougham castell,
[Sidenote: Dacor.]
and into the same Aimote falleth Dacor becke (alreadie touched)
which riseth by northwest in Materdale hils, foure miles aboue
Dacor castell, and then going through Dacor parke, it runneth by
east a good mile lower into Eimote, a little beneath Delamaine,
which standeth on the left side of Dacor. In one of his bookes
also he saith, how Carleill standeth betwéene two streames, that
is to saie the Deua, which commeth thither from by southwest, and
[Sidenote: Deua.]
also the Logus that descendeth from the southeast. He addeth moreouer
how the Deua in times past was named Vala or Bala, and that of the
[Sidenote: Vala.]
names of these two, Lugibala for Caerleill hath beene deriued, &c.
And thus much out of Leland. But where he had the cause of this
his coniecture as yet I haue not read. Of this am I certeine, that
I vse the names of most riuers here and else-where described,
accordinglie as they are called in my time, although I omit not to
speake here and there of such as are more ancient, where iust
occasion mooueth me to remember them, for the better vnderstanding
of our histories, as they doo come to hand.

[Sidenote: Leuen.]
Blacke Leuen and white Leuen waters, fall into the sea in one
[Sidenote: Lamford.]
[Sidenote: Eske.]
chanell, and with them the Lamford and the Eske, the last confluence
being not a full mile from the maine sea. The white and blacke
Leuen ioining therfore aboue Bucknesse, the confluence goeth to
[Sidenote: Tomunt.]
Bracken hill, Kirkleuenton, and at Tomunt water meeteth with the
[Sidenote: Kirsop.]
[Sidenote: Lidde.]
Eske. In like sort the Kirsop ioining with the Lidde out of Scotland
at Kirsop foot, running by Stangerdike side, Harlow, Hathwater,
and taking in the Eske aboue the Mote, it looseth the former name,
and is called Eske, vntill it come to the sea.

Hauing thus gone thorough the riuers of England, now it resteth
that we procéed with those which are to be found vpon the Scotish
shore, in such order as we best may, vntill we haue fetched a
compasse about the same, and come vnto Barwike, whence afterward
it shall be easie for vs to make repaire vnto the Thames, from
[Sidenote: Eske.]
which we did set forward in the beginning of our voiage. The first
riuer that I met withall on the Scotish coast, is the Eske, after
I came past the Solueie, which hath his head in the Cheuiot hilles,
runneth by Kirkinton, and falleth into the sea at Borow on the
sands. This Eske hauing receiued the Ewis falleth into the Solueie
first at Atterith. After this I passed ouer a little créeke from
Kirthell, and so to Anand, whereof the vallie Anandale dooth séeme
to take the name. There is also the Nide, whereof commeth Nidsdale,
the Ken, the Dée, the Crale, and the Bladnecke, and all these
(besides diuerse other small rilles of lesse name) doo lie vpon
the south of Gallowaie.

On the north side also we haue the Ruan, the Arde, the Cassile
Dune, the Burwin, the Cluide (wherevpon sometime stood the famous
citie of Alcluide, and whereinto runneth the Carath) the Hamell,
the Dourglesse, and the Lame. From hence in like maner we came vnto
the Leuind mouth, wherevnto the Blake on the southwest and the
Lomund Lake, with his fléeting Iles and fish without finnes (yet
verie holesome) dooth séeme to make his issue. This lake of Lomund
in calme weather ariseth sometimes so high, and swelleth with such
terrible billowes, that it causeth the best marriners of Scotland
to abide the leisure of this water, before they dare aduenture to
hoise vp sailes on hie. The like is séene in windie weather, but
much more perillous. There are certeine Iles also in the same,
which mooue and remooue, oftentimes by force of the water, but one
of them especiallie, which otherwise is verie fruitfull for pasturage
of cattell.

[Sidenote: Leue.]
[Sidenote: Long.]
[Sidenote: Goile.]
[Sidenote: Heke.]
Next vnto this is the Leue, the Rage, the Long, the Goile, & the
Heke, which for the excéeding greatnesse of their heads, are called
[Sidenote: Robinseie.]
[Sidenote: Forelan.]
[Sidenote: Tarbat.]
[Sidenote: Lean.]
lakes. Then haue we the Robinseie, the Foreland, the Tarbat, the
[Sidenote: Abir.]
Lean, and the Abir, wherevnto the Spanseie, the Loine, the Louth,
[Sidenote: Arke.]
[Sidenote: Zefe.]
[Sidenote: Sell.]
[Sidenote: Zord.]
the Arke, and the Zefe doo fall, there is also the Sell, the Zord,
[Sidenote: Owin.]
[Sidenote: Nowisse.]
[Sidenote: Orne.]
[Sidenote: Lang.]
[Sidenote: Drun.]
[Sidenote: Hew.]
[Sidenote: Brun.]
the Owin, the Newisse, the Orne, the Lang, the Drun, the Hew, the
[Sidenote: Kile.]
[Sidenote: Dowr.]
[Sidenote: Faro.]
[Sidenote: Nesse.]
[Sidenote: Herre.]
[Sidenote: Con.]
Brun, the Kell, the Dowr, the Faro, the Nesse, the Herre, the Con,
[Sidenote: Glasse.]
[Sidenote: Maur.]
[Sidenote: Vrdall.]
[Sidenote: Fesse.]
[Sidenote: Calder.]
the Glasse, the Maur, the Vrdall, the Fers (that commeth out of
the Caldell) the Fairsoke, which two latter lie a little by west
of the Orchades, and are properlie called riuers, bicause they
issue onelie from springs; but most of the other lakes, bicause
they come from linnes and huge pooles, or such low bottomes, fed
with springs, as séeme to haue no accesse, but onelie recesse of
waters, whereof there be manie in Scotland.

But to proceed. Hauing once past Dungisbie head in Cathnesse, we
[Sidenote: Wifle.]
shall yer long come to the mouth of the Wifle, a prettie streame,
[Sidenote: Browre.]
comming by south of the mounteins called the Maidens pappes. Then
[Sidenote: Clin.]
[Sidenote: Twin.]
to the Browre, the Clin, the Twin (whereinto runneth three riuers,
[Sidenote: Shin.]
[Sidenote: Sillan.]
[Sidenote: Carew.]
[Sidenote: Nesse.]
the Shin, the Sillan, and Carew) the Nesse, which beside the plentie
of samon found therein is neuer frosen, nor suffereth yce to remaine
[Sidenote: Narding.]
there, that is cast into the poole. From thence we come vnto the
[Sidenote: Spaie.]
Narding, the Finderne, the Spaie (which receiues the Vine) the
Fitch, the Bulich, the Arrian, the Leuin, and the Bogh, from whence
[Sidenote: Downe.]
we saile vntill we come about the Buquhan head, and so to the Downe,
[Sidenote: Dée.]
and Dee: which two streames bring forth the greatest samons that
[Sidenote: Eske.]
are to be had in Scotland, and most plentie of the same. Then to
the north Eske, whereinto the Esmond runneth aboue Brechin, the
south Eske, then the Louen and the Taw, which is the finest riuer
for water that is in all Scotland, and wherevnto most riuers and
lakes doo run. As Farlake, Yrth, Goure, Loich, Cannach, Linell,
Loion, Irewer, Erne, and diuerse other besides small rillets which
I did neuer looke vpon.

Then is there the lake Londors, vpon whose mouth saint Andrewes
dooth stand, the lake Lewin vnto whose streame two other lakes haue
recourse in Fifland, and then the Firth or Fortha, which some doo
call the Pictish and Scotish sea, whither the kingdome of the
Northumbers was sometime extended, and with the riuer last mentioned
(I meane that commeth from Londors) includeth all Fife, the said
Fortha being full of oisters and all kinds of huge fish that vse
to lie in the déepe. How manie waters run into the Firth, called
by Ptolomie Lora, it is not in my power iustlie to declare: yet
are there both riuers, rills, & lakes that fall into the same, as
[Sidenote: Clacke.]
[Sidenote: Alon.]
[Sidenote: Dune.]
[Sidenote: Kerie.]
[Sidenote: Cambell.]
[Sidenote: Cumer.]
[Sidenote: Tere.]
[Sidenote: Man.]
[Sidenote: Torkesan.]
Clacke, Alon, Dune, Kerie, Cambell, Cumer, Tere, Man, Torkeson,
[Sidenote: Rosham.]
[Sidenote: Mushell.]
[Sidenote: Blene.]
Rosham, Mushell, Blene, and diuerse other which I call by these
names, partlie after information, and partlie of such townes as
[Sidenote: Twede.]
are neere vnto their heads. Finallie, when we are past the Haie,
then are we come vnto the Twede, whereinto we entred, leauing
Barwike on the right hand and his appurtenances, wherein Halidon
hill standeth, and conteineth a triangle of so much ground beyond
the said riuer, as is well néere foure miles in length, and three
miles in bredth in the broad end: except mine information doo faile
me.

The Twede (which Ptolomie nameth Toualsis or Toesis, & betwéene
which and the Tine the countie of Northumberland is in maner
inclosed, and watred with sundrie noble riuers) is a noble streame
and the limes or bound betwéene England & Scotland, wherby those
two kingdomes are now diuided in sunder. It riseth about Drimlar
in Eusbale (or rather out of a faire well (as Leland saith) standing
in the mosse of an hill called Airstane, or Harestan in Twede dale
ten miles from Pibble) and so comming by Pibble, Lander, Dribiwgh,
Lelse, Warke, Norham and Hagarstone, it falleth into the sea beneath
Barwike, as I heare. Thus saith Leland. But I not contented with
this so short a discourse of so long a riuer & briefe description
of so faire a streame, will ad somewhat more of the same concerning
his race on the English side, and rehearsall of such riuers as fall
into it. Comming therefore to Ridam, it receiueth betwéene that
and Carham a becke, which descendeth from the hilles that lie by
west of Windram. Going also from Ridam by Longbridgham (on the
Scotish side) and to Carham, it hasteth immediatlie to Warke castell
on the English, and by Spilaw on the other side, then to Cornewall,
Cald streame, and Tilmouth, where it receiueth sundrie waters in
one botome which is called the Till, and whose description insueth
here at hand.

[Sidenote: Till.]
Certes there is no head of anie riuer that is named Till, but the
issue of the furthest water that commeth hereinto, riseth not farre
from the head of Vswaie in the Cheuiot hilles, where it is called
Brennich, whereof the kingdome of Brennicia did sometime take the
name. From thence it goeth to Hartside, Ingram, Branton, Crawleie,
Hedgeleie, Beueleie, and Bewijc, beneath which it receiueth one
[Sidenote: Bromis.]
water comming from Rodham by west, and soone after a second descending
from the Middletons, and so they go as one with the Bromish, by
Chatton to Fowbreie (where they crosse the third water falling
downe by north from Howborne by Heselbridge) thence to Woller,
there also taking in a rill that riseth about Middleton hall, and
runneth by Hardleie, Whereleie, and the rest afore remembred, wherby
the water of Bromis is not a little increased, and after this latter
confluence beneath Woller, no more called Bromis but the Till,
vntill it come at the Twede. The Till passing therefore by Weteland
and Dedington, méeteth soone after with a faire streame comming
[Sidenote: Bowbent.]
from by southwest, which most men call the Bowbent or Bobent.

It riseth on the west side of the Cocklaw hill, and from thence
hasteth to Hattons, beneath the which it ioineth from by southeast
with the Hellerborne, and then goeth to Pudston, Downeham, Kilham,
and a little by north of Newton Kirke, and betweene it and west
Newton, it taketh in another water called Glin, comming from the
Cheuiot hilles by Heth poole, and from thenseforth runneth on
without anie further increase, by Copland Euart, and so in the
Till. The Till for his part in like sort after this confluence
goeth to Broneridge, Fodcastell, Eatall castell, Heaton, & north
of Tilmouth into the Twede, or by west of Wesell, except my memorie
dooth faile me. After this also our aforesaid water of Twede
[Sidenote: Whitaker.]
descendeth to Grotehugh, the Newbiggins, Norham castell, Foord,
Lungridge, & crossing the Whitaker on the other side from Scotland
beneath Cawmill, it runneth to Ordo, to Barwike, and so into the
Ocean, leaning (as I said) so much English ground on the northwest
ripe, as lieth in manner of a triangle betwéene Cawmils, Barwike,
and Lammeton, which (as one noteth) is no more but two miles and
an halfe euerie waie, or not much more; except he be deceiued.

Being past this noble streame, we came by a rill that descendeth
from Bowsden by Barington. Then by the second which ariseth betwéene
Middleton and Detcham or Dereham, and runneth by Eskill and the
[Sidenote: Warne.]
Rosse, next of all to Warnemouth, of whose backe water I read as
followeth. The Warne or Gwerne riseth southwest of Crokelaw, and
going by Warneford, Bradford, Spindlestone, and Budill, it leaueth
Newton on the right hand, and so falleth into the Ocean, after it
hath run almost nine miles from the head within the land, and
receiued a rill beneath Yessington, which commeth downe betweene
Newland and Olchester, and hath a bridge beneath the confluence,
which leadeth ouer the same. From Warnemouth we sailed by Bamborow
castell, and came at last to a fall betweene Bedwell and Newton.
The maine water that serueth this issue, riseth aboue Carleton from
the foot of an hill, which séemeth to part the head of this and
that of Warne in sunder. It runneth also by Carleton, Tonleie,
Doxford, Brunton, and Tuggell, and finallie into the sea, as to
his course apperteineth.

[Sidenote: Aile, or Alne, aliàs Chalne.]
From this water we went by Dunstanbugh castell, vnto the Chalne or
Alnemouth, which is serued with a pretie riueret called Alne, the
head whereof riseth in the hils west of Alnham towne, and called
by Ptolomie, Celnius. From thense also it runneth by Rile, Kile,
Eslington, and Whittingham, where it crosseth a rill comming from
by south, and beneath the same, the second that descendeth from
Eirchild at Brone, & likewise the third that riseth at Newton, and
runneth by Edlingham castell and Lemmaton (all on the southeast
side or right hand) and so passeth on further, till it meet with
the fourth, comming from aboue Shipleie from by north, after which
confluence it goeth to Alnewijc, & then to Dennijc, receiuing there
a rillet from by south and a rill from by north, and thence going
on to Bilton, betweene Ailmouth towne and Wooddon, it sweepeth into
the Ocean.

[Sidenote: Cocket.]
The Cocket is a goodlie riuer, the head also thereof is in the
[Sidenote: Vswaie.]
roots of Kemblespeth hils, from whence it goeth to Whiteside, and
[Sidenote: Ridleie.]
there meeting with the Vswaie (which descendeth from the north) it
goeth a little further to Linbridge, and there receiueth the Ridleie
by southwest, and after that with another, called (as I thinke)
the Hoc, which commeth from the Woodland and hillie soile by
Allington, & falleth into the same, west of Parke head. It ioineth
also yer long with the Ridland, which commeth in north by Bilstone,
[Sidenote: Yardop.]
and then hieth to Sharpton, to Harbotle, where it crosseth the
Yardop water by south, then to Woodhouse, and swallowing in a little
becke by the waie from southwest, to Bickerton, to Tossons, Newton,
and running apace toward Whitton towre, it taketh a brooke withall
that commeth in northwest of Alnham, néere Elihaw, and goeth by
Skarnewood, ouer nether Trewhet, Snitter, and Throxton, and soone
[Sidenote: It may be Leland mistaketh Tickington water for one of these.]
after vniteth it selfe with the Cocket, from whence they go together
to Rethburie, or Whitton towre, to Halie, to Brinkehorne, Welden,
taking withall soone after the Tod or burne called Tod, which
falleth in from by south, then to Elihaw, Felton (receiuing thereabout
the Fareslie brooke, that goeth by Wintring by south east, and
Sheldike water, that goeth by Hason, to Brainsaugh by north) and
from thence to Morricke, Warkworth castell, and so into the sea.

There is furthermore a little fall, betwéene Hawkeslaw and Drurith,
which riseth about Stokes wood, goeth by east Cheuington, and
[Sidenote: Lune.]
Whittington castell, and afterward into the Ocean. The Lune is a
pretie brooke rising west of Espleie, from whence it goeth to
[Sidenote: Wansbecke.]
Tritlington, Vgham, Linton, and yer long in the sea. Wansbecke
(in old time Diua) is far greater than the Lune. It issueth vp west
and by north of west Whelpington, thence it runneth to Kirke
Whelpington, Wallington, Middleton, and Angerton. Heere it méeteth
with a water running from about Farnelaw by the grange, and Hartburne
on the north, and then going from Angerton, it runneth by Moseden
[Sidenote: Font.]
to Mitforth, and there in like maner crosseth the Font, which
issuing out of the ground about Newbiggin, goeth by Nonneie Kirke,
Witton castell, Stanton, Nunriding, Newton, and so into the Wansbecke,
which runneth in like maner from Mitford to Morpheth castell (within
two miles whereof it ebbeth and floweth) the new Chappell, Bottle
castell, Shepwash, and so into the sea, three miles from the next
hauen which is called Blithe.

[Sidenote: Blithe.]
Blithe water riseth about kirke Heaton, and goeth by Belfe, Ogle,
and (receiuing the Port alias the Brocket, that springeth east of
S. Oswolds) passeth by Portgate, Whittington, Fennike hall, Madfennes,
[Sidenote: Hartleie.]
Hawkewell, the Grange, & Dissingtons. After it hath taken in the
Pont from the east (whose head is not farre from that of Hartleie
streame) and is past Barwijc on the hill, it runneth by Harford,
Bedlington, Cowpon, and at Blithes nuke, into the deepe Ocean.
Hartleie streamelet riseth in Wéeteslade parioch, goeth by Haliwell,
and at Hartleie towne yeeldeth to the sea.

The Tine or Tinna, a riuer notablie stored with samon, and other
[Sidenote: North Tine.]
good fish, and in old time called Alan, riseth of two heads, whereof
that called north Tine, is the first that followeth to be described.
It springeth vp aboue Belkirke in the hils, & thence goeth to
[Sidenote: Shele.]
Butterhawgh (where it receiueth a confluence of Kirsop and the
Shele) thence to Cragsheles, Leapelish (receiuing on the south a
rill out of Tindale) then to Shilburne, against which it taketh in
a becke that commeth out of Tindale called Shill, also two other
on the same side, betweene Yarro and Fawston hall, and the third
at Thorneburne, and so goeth on to Grenested, and there carrieth
withall a fall, from by north also made by the confluence of one
rill comming by Thecam, and another that passeth by Holinhead, and
likewise another on the south comming from Tindale, by Chuden,
Dalacastell, and Brokes: after which our north Tine goeth by
Hellaside, to Billingham, and at Rhedes mouth méeteth with the
Ridde, a verie prettie water, whose description is giuen me after
this maner.

[Sidenote: Ridde.]
The Ridde therefore riseth within thrée miles of the Scotish march,
as Leland saith, & commeth through Riddesdale, wherevnto it giueth
the name. Another writeth how it riseth in the roots of the Carter,
and Redsquibe hilles, and yer it hath gone farre from the head,
[Sidenote: Shelhop.]
[Sidenote: Cheslop.]
beside a few little rilles it taketh in the Spelhop or Petop from
the north and the Cheslop on the south, beside sundrie other wild
rils nameless and obscure, as one on the north side next vnto the
Petop or Spelhop; another by south out of Riddesdale, the third
west of Burdop, the fourth runneth by Wullaw to Rochester, then
two from southwest, another from by north which goeth by Durtburne,
and is called Durt or Durth, then the Smalburne from the west. Next
to the same is the Otter or Otterburne on the north side also the
Ouereie, and finallie the last which descendeth from Ellesdon
hilles, by Munkrige and ioineth with our Ridde, northwest of
Nudhowgh, after which the said Ridde goeth by Woodburne, Risingham,
Leame, and so into the Tine, a mile lower than Belingham or Bilingham,
which standeth somewhat aloofe from north Tine and is (as I take
it) ten miles at the least aboue the towne of Hexham. After this
[Sidenote: 3. Burnes.]
[Sidenote: Shitlington.]
confluence it passeth to Léehall, to Carehouse (crossing Shitlington
becke by west which also receiueth the Yare on the south side of
Shitlington) another also beneath this on the same side, made by
the confluence of Workesburne, and Middleburne, at Roseburne, beside
the third called Morleis or Morelée aboue, and Simons burne beneath
Shepechase, and likewise the Swine from by north that runneth by
Swinburne castell, next of all the Riall from the northeast, which
commeth by Erington, & so holding his course directlie southwards,
it goeth by S. Oswolds through the Pictishwall, to Wall, and so
into south Tine, beneath Accam, and northwest (as I doo wéene) of
Hexham.

[Sidenote: Tine. S.]
The south Tine ariseth in the Cheuiot hils, and yer it hath gone
[Sidenote: Esgill.]
farre from the head, it méeteth with Esgill on the east, and another
[Sidenote: Vent.]
rill on the west, and so going by the houses toward Awsten moore,
it ioineth with Schud from by west, and soone after with the Vent
from by east aboue Lowbier. From Lowbier it goeth to Whitehalton,
[Sidenote: Gilders beck.]
to Kirke Haugh (crossing the Gilders becke on the one side, and
the Alne on the other) to Thornehope, where it is inlarged with a
water on each side, to Williamstone, and almost at Knaresdale,
[Sidenote: Knare.]
taketh in the Knare, and then runneth withall to Fetherstone angle.
At Fetherstone angle likewise it méeteth with Hartleie water, by
southwest comming from Sibins or Sibbenes, another a little beneath
from southeast, and thence when it commeth to Billester castell,
it carieth another withall from by west, Thirlewall called Rippall
which riseth in the forrest of Lowes, and goeth by the Waltowne,
Blinkinsop, & Widon, and after which confluence it taketh in another
from by north rising west of Swinsheld, which goeth by Grenelegh
to Haltwestell: thence going by Vnthanke, it crosseth another rill
from by south, descending from the hilles that lie north of Todlewood,
and then proceeding vnto Wilmotteswijc, it admitteth the Wilmots
becke from the south, and another running by Bradleie hall on the
north side of Beltingham; after which it méeteth with the Alen a
proper water, and described after this maner.

[Sidenote: East Alen.]
The Alen or Alon hath two heads, whereof one is called east Alen,
the other west Alen. The first of them riseth southeast of Sibton
Sheles, & going by Sundorp, it taketh in a rill withall from by
est; after which confluence it runneth to Newshele, Allington,
[Sidenote: West Alen.]
Caddon, Old towne, & in the course to Stauertpele, méeteth with
the west Alen. The west Alen riseth in Killop low hilles aboue
Wheteleie sheles, from whence it goeth to Spartwell, Hawcopole,
Owston, and taking in a rill thereabouts, it procéedeth on to
Permandbie, and crossing there another rill in like maner from by
west, it goeth by Whitefield, and ioining soone after with the est
Alen, they run as one to Stauert poole, Plankford, and so into the
Tine betweene Beltingham and Lées, from whence the Tine runneth on
by Lees Haddon, Woodhall, Owmers, Whernebie, Costleie, & so by
Warden, till it crosse the north Tine, and come to Hexham, from
whence it goeth to Dilstan, crossing two waters by the waie, whereof
one commeth from by south, and is called the Wolsh, which holdeth
his course by Stelehall, and Newbiggin receiueth another comming
from Grimbridge: the other called Dill somewhat lower descending
from Hedleie, and running by Rising, till it fall into the south
side of our streame from Dilstan, it goeth to Bywell castell, ouer
against which it receiueth a rill that runneth by Hindleie, thence
[Sidenote: Darwent.]
it hasteth to Eltingham, Pruddo, Willam, (and there it meeteth with
another becke) then to Reton, Blaidon, and next of all ioineth with
the Darwent, from by south.

This riuer riseth aboue Knewdon, and Rudlamhope in Northumberland,
from two heads: the northerlie being called Dere, and the southerlie
the Guent: and ioining so well yer long in chanell as in name, they
runne on to Humsterworth, new Biggin, Blankeland, Acton, Aspersheles,
Blackheadlie, Brentfield side, Pansheles, Ebchester, and there
taking in a water from Hedleie in Northumberland, néere to Blacke
hall in the bishoprike, it goeth on to Spen, Hollinside, Wickham,
Swalwell, and so into Tine, which passeth from thence by Elswijc,
and méeting with another water comming from Shildraw, by Rauensworth
castell to Redhugh, it goeth on to Newcastell, Fellin, Netherheworth,
Walker, Waswon, Hedburne, and next to Jerro or Girwie, where Beda
dwelled in an abbeie; now a gentlemans place (although the church
be made a parish church, wherevnto diuerse townes resort, as moonke
Eaton where Beda was borne, which is a mile from thence, Southsheles,
Harton, Westhow, Hebburne, Hedworth, Wardleie, Fellin, Follinsbie,
the Heworthes) and from thence to the south and Northsheles, and
so into the sea, fiue miles by northwest of Weremouth, and (as I
gesse) somewhat more.

Beneath the confluence in like sort of both the Tines, standeth
Corbridge, a towne sometime inhabited by the Romans, and about
twelue miles from Newcastell, and hereby dooth the Corue run, that
meeteth yer long with the Tine. Not farre off also is a place called
Colchester, wherby Leland gesseth that the name of the brooke should
[Sidenote: Corue.]
rather be Cole than Corue, and in my iudgement his coniecture is
verie likelie; for in the life of S. Oswijn (otherwise a féeble
authoritie) the word Colbridge is alwaies vsed for Corbridge,
whereof I thought good to leaue this short aduertisement. In this
countrie also are the thrée vales or dales, whereof men haue doubted
whether théeues or true men doo most abound in them, that is to
saie, Riddesdale, Tuidale, and Liddesdale: this last being for the
most part Scotish, and without the marches of England. Neuerthelesse,
sithens that by the diligence cheefelie of maister Gilpin, and
finallie of other learned preachers, the grace of God working with
them, they haue béene called to some obedience and zeale vnto the
word, it is found that they haue so well profited by the same, that
at this present their former sauage demeanour is verie much abated,
and their barbarous wildnesse and fiercenesse so qualified, that
there is great hope left of their reduction vnto ciuilitie, and
better order of behauiour than hitherto they haue béene acquainted
withall. But to proceed with the rest.

[Sidenote: Were.]
Ptolomie, writing of the Were, calleth it Vedra, a riuer well knowne
vnto Beda the famous préest, who was brought vp in a monasterie
[Sidenote: Burdop.]
that stood vpon the bankes thereof. It riseth of thrée heads in
Kelloppeslaw hill, whereof the most southerlie is called Burdop,
[Sidenote: Wallop.]
[Sidenote: Kellop.]
the middlemost Wallop, and the northerliest Kellop, which vniting
themselues about S. Iohns chappell, or a little by west thereof,
their confluence runneth through Stanhope parke, by east Yare, and
so to Frosterleie. But yer it come there, it receiueth thrée rilles
from the north in Weredale, whereof one commeth in by Stanhope,
another west of Woodcroft hall, and the third at Frosterleie afore
mentioned. And a little beneath these, I find yet a fourth on the
south side, which descendeth from southwest by Bolliop, Bishopsleie,
Milhouses, and Landew, as I haue béene informed. Being therefore
[Sidenote: Wascrop.]
vnited all with the Were, this streame goeth on to Walsingham,
there taking in the Wascropburne, beside another at Bradleie, the
third at Harpleie hall (and these on the north side) and the fourth
[Sidenote: Bedburne.]
betwéene Witton and Witton castell called Bedburne, comming by
Hamsterleie, whereby this riuer dooth now wax verie great. Going
therefore from hence, it hasteth to Bishops Akeland, and beneath
it receiueth the Garondlesse, which (as Leland saith) riseth six
miles by west of Akeland castell, and running south thereof, passeth
by west Akeland, S. Helens Akeland, S. Andrewes Akeland, and bishops
Akeland, and then into the Were which goeth to Newfield, and
Willington. Neere vnto this place also and somewhat beneath
Sunderland, the Were, crosseth one brooke from southest by Het,
Croxseie, Cronefurth, Tursdale, and Cordale, and two other from by
northwest in one botome, whereof the first commeth from aboue Ash
by Langleie: the other called Coue, from aboue Kinchleie by Newbiggin,
Lanchester, north Langlie, and through Beare parke, & so méeting
beneath Kelleie or Hedleie with the other, they fall both as one
into the Were, betweene south Sunderland and Burnall. From hence
[Sidenote: Pidding brooke.]
our riuer goeth on to Howghwell, Shirkeleie, old Duresme (and there
taking in the Pidding brooke by northeast) it goeth to Duresme,
[Sidenote: Pilis.]
Finkeleie, Harbarhouse, Lumleie castell (where it méeteth with the
Pilis, whose heads are vnited betweene Pelton and Whitwell (and
after called Hedleie) and from thence to Lampton, Harroton, the
Bedikes, Vfferton, Hilton parke, Bishops Weremouth, and so into
the sea, betweene north Sunderland and north Weremouth towne, which
now is called moonke Weremouth of the monasterie sometime standing
there, wherin Beda read & wrote manie of his bookes, as to the
world appeareth. This mouth of Were is eight miles from Durham,
and six from Newcastell. Being thus passed the Were, & entered into
the Bishoprijc, yer we come at the mouth of the These, almost by
two miles, ouer passing a rill that runneth by castell Eden, and
Hardwijc, and likewise Hartlepoole towne, which lieth ouer into
the sea in maner of a byland or peninsula, we meet with a prettie
fall, which groweth by a riuer that is increased with two waters,
whereof one riseth by northwest about Moretons, and goeth by Stotfeld
and Claxton, the other at Dawlton, going by Breerton, Owtham, and
Grettam, finallie ioining within two miles of the sea, they make
a prettie portlet: but I know not of what securitie.

[Sidenote: Thesis.]
The These, a riuer that beareth and féedeth an excellent samon,
riseth in the Blacke lowes, aboue two miles flat west of the
southerlie head of Were called Burdop, and south of the head of
west Alen, and thence runneth through Tildale forrest: and taking
in the Langdon water from northwest it runneth to Durtpit chappell,
to Newbiggin, and so to Middleton, receiuing by west of each of
these a rill comming from by north (of which the last is called
[Sidenote: Hude.]
Hude) and likewise the Lune afterward by southwest that riseth at
thrée seuerall places, whereof the first is in the borders of
[Sidenote: Lune.]
Westmerland and there called Arnegill becke, the second more
southerlie, named Lunebecke, and the third by south at Bandor Skarth
[Sidenote: Arnegill.]
hill, and méeting all aboue Arnegill house, they run togither in
one bottome to Lathekirke bridge, and then into the These. Hauing
[Sidenote: Skirkewith.]
therefore met with these, it runneth to Mickelton (& there taking
in the Skirkwith water) it goeth to Rombald kirke (crossing there
[Sidenote: Bander.]
also one rill and the Bander brooke by south west) and then going
to Morewood hag, and Morewood parke, till it come to Bernards
castell.

[Sidenote: Rere crosse.]
Here also it receiueth the Thuresgill water, comming east of Rere
crosse in Yorkeshire, from the spittle in Stanmore by Crag almost
southwest, and being vnited with the These, it goeth by Stratford,
Eglesdon, Rokesbie, Thorpe, Wickliffe, Ouington, Winston, and
betweene Barfurth and Gainfurth méeteth with another rill, that
commeth from Langleie forest, betweene Rabie castell and Standorpe,
of whose name I haue no knowledge. But to procéed. The These being
[Sidenote: Skerne.]
past Ramforth, runneth betwéene Persore and Cliffe, and in the waie
to Crofts bridge taketh in the Skerne a pretie water, which riseth
about Trimdon, and goeth by Fishburne, Bradburie, Preston, Braforton,
Skirmingham, the Burdons, Haughton and Darlington, & there finallie
meeting with the Cocke becke or Dare, it falleth in the These
beneath Stapleton, before it come at Crofts bridge, and (as it
should séeme) is the same which Leland calleth Gretteie or Grettie.
From thence it runneth to Sockburne, nether Dunsleie, Middleton
row, Newsham, Yarne (crossing a brooke from Louen bridge) called
Leuen or Leuinus in Latine, whose crinkling course is notable, and
the streame of some called Thorpe, which I find described in this
maner.

[Sidenote: Thorpe aliàs Leuand.]
The Thorpe riseth of sundrie heads, whereof one is aboue Pinching
Thorpe, from whence it goeth to Nonnethorpe, and so to Stokesleie.
The second hath two branches, and so placed, that Kildale standeth
betweene them both: finallie, méeting beneath Easbie they go by
Eaton, and likewise vnto Stokesleie. The last hath also two branches,
whereof one commeth from Inglesbie, and méeteth with the second
beneath Broughton; & going from thence to Stokesleie, they méet
with the Thorpe aboue the towne, as the other fall into it somewhat
beneath the same. From hence it goeth to Ridleie, and there taketh
[Sidenote: Crawthorne.]
in another rill comming from Potto, thence to Crawthorne brooke,
Leuanton, Milton, Hilton, Inglesbie, and so into the These, betwéene
Yarne and Barwijc, whereof I made mention before. After this
confluence our These hasteth on to Barwijc, Preston, Thorne abbeie,
and Arsham, which standeth on the southeast side of the riuer almost
betweene the falles of two waters, whereof one descendeth from west
Hartburne by long Newton, Elton, & Stockton; the other from
Stillington, or Shillington, by Whitton, Thorpe, Blackestone,
Billingham, and Norton. From Arsham finallie it goeth to Bellasis,
Middleburgh, and so into the sea. Leland describing this riuer
speaketh of the Wiske, which should come thereinto from by south
vnder Wiske bridge, by Danbie, and Northalarton, and should ioine
with a greater streame: but as yet I find no certeine place where
to bestow the same.

Next of all we come vnto the high Cliffe water, which rising aboue
Hutton, goeth by Gisborow, and there receiueth another streame
comming from by southeast, and then continuing on his course, it
is not long yer it fall into the sea. The next is the Scaling water,
which descendeth from Scaling towne, from whence we come to the
Molemouth, not farre from whose head standeth Molgraue castell:
[Sidenote: Eske.]
then to Sandford creeke, and next of all to Eske mouth, which riseth
aboue Danbie wood, and so goeth to Castelton, there méeting by the
waie with another rill comming from about Westerdale by Danbie,
and so they go on togither by Armar and Thwate castell, till they
ioine with another water aboue Glasdule chappell, thence to new
Biggin, taking yet another brooke with them, running from Goodland
[Sidenote: Ibur.]
ward, and likewise the Ibur, and so go on without anie further
increase by Busworth, yer long into the sea.

There is also a créeke on each side of Robin Whoodes baie, of whose
names and courses I haue no skill, sauing that Fillingale the towne
dooth stand betwéene them both. There is another not far from
Scarborow, on the north side called the Harwood brooke. It runneth
through Harwood dale by Cloughton, Buniston, and soone after meeting
with another rill on the southwest, they run as one into the ocean
sea. From Scarborow to Bridlington, by Flamborow head, we met with
no more falles. This water therefore that we saw at Bridlington,
riseth at Dugglebie, from whence it goeth to Kirbie, Helperthorpe,
Butterwijc, Boithorpe, Foxhole, (where it falleth into the ground,
and riseth vp againe at Rudston) Thorpe, Cathorpe, Bridlington,
and so into the Ocean.

Being come about the Spurne head, I meete yer long with a riuer
that riseth short of Withersie, and goeth by Fodringham and Wisted,
from thence to another that commeth by Rosse, Halsham, Carmingham:
then to the third, which riseth aboue Humbleton, and goeth to
Esterwijc, Heddon, and so into the Humber. The fourth springeth
short of Sprotleie, goeth by Witton, and falleth into the water of
Humber at Merflete, as I heare.

[Sidenote: Hull.]
The next of all is the Hull water, which I will describe also here,
and then crosse ouer vnto the southerlie shore. The furthest head
of Hull water riseth at Kilham, from whence it goeth to Lewthorpe
créeke, and so to Fodringham, a little beneath which it meeteth
with sundrie waters, whereof one falleth in on the northest side,
comming from about Lisset; the second on the northwest banke from
Nafferton; the third from Emmeswell and Kirkeburne: for it hath
two heads which ioined beneth little Drifield, and the fourth which
falleth into the same: so that these two latter run vnto the maine
riuer both in one chanell, as experience hath confirmed. From hence
then our Hull goeth to Ratseie, to Goodalehouse, and then taking
in a water from Hornesie mere, it goeth on through Beuerleie medowes,
by Warron, Stoneferrie, Hull, and finallie into the Humber. Of the
rill that falleth into this water from south Netherwijc, by Skirlow,
and the two rilles that come from Cottingham and Woluerton, I saie
no more, sith it is enough to name them in their order.




THE DESCRIPTION OF THE HUMBER OR ISIS, AND SUCH WATER-COURSES AS
DOO INCREASE HIR CHANELL.

CHAP. XV.


[Sidenote: Humber.]
There is no riuer called Humber from the hed. Wherfore that which
we now call Humber, Ptolomie Abie, Leland Aber, as he gesseth, hath
the same denomination no higher than the confluence of Trent with
the Ouze, as beside Leland sundrie ancient writers haue noted before
vs both. Certes it is a noble arme of the sea, and although it be
properlie to be called Ouze or Ocellus euen to the Nuke beneath
Ancolme, yet are we contented to call it Humber of Humbrus or Vmar,
a king of the Scithians, who inuaded this Ile in the time of
Locrinus, thinking to make himselfe monarch of the same. But as
God hath from time to time singularlie prouided for the benefit of
Britaine, so in this businesse it came to passe, that Humber was
put to flight, his men slaine: and furthermore, whilest he attempted
to saue himselfe by hasting to his ships (such was the prease of
his nobilitie that followed him into his owne vessell, and the rage
of weather which hastened on his fatall daie) that both he and they
were drowned togither in that arme. And this is the onelie cause
wherefore it hath béene called Humber, as our writers saie; and
wherof I find these verses:

  Dum fugit obstat ei flumen submergitur illic,
    Déque suo tribuit nomine nomen aquae.

This riuer in old time parted Lhoegres or England from Albania,
which was the portion of Albanactus, the yongest sonne of Brute.
But since that time the limits of Lhoegres haue béene so inlarged,
first by the prowesse of the Romans, then by the conquests of the
English, that at this present daie, the Twede on the one side, &
the Solue on the other, be taken for the principall bounds betweene
vs and those of Scotland. In describing therefore the Humber, I
must néeds begin with the Ouze, whose water bringeth foorth a verie
sweet, fat and delicat samon, as I haue beene informed, beside
sundrie other kinds of fish, which we want here on the south and
southwest coasts & riuers of our land, whereof I may take occasion
to speake more at large heerafter.

[Sidenote: Vre aliàs Ouze, or Isis.]
The Vre therfore riseth in the furthest parts of all Richmondshire,
among the Coterine hilles, in a mosse, toward the west fourtéene
miles beyond Midleham. Being therefore issued out of the ground,
it goeth to Holbecke, Hardraw, Hawshouse, Butterside, Askebridge
(which Leland calleth the Askaran, and saith thereof and the Bainham,
that they are but obscure bridges) then to Askarth, through Wanlesse
parke, Wenseleie bridge (made two hundred yeares since, by Alwin,
[Sidenote: Burne.]
parson of Winslaw) New parke, Spennithorne, Danbie, Geruise abbeie,
Clifton and Masham. When it is come to Masham, it receiueth the
[Sidenote: Wile.]
Burne, by south west (as it did the Wile, from verie déepe scarrie
rockes, before at Askaran) and diuerse other wild rilles not worthie
to be remembred. From Masham, it hasteth vnto Tanfield (taking in
by the waie a rill by southwest) then to another Tanfield, to Newton
hall, and Northbridge, at the hither end of Rippon, and so to
[Sidenote: Skell.]
Huickes bridge. But yer it come there it meeteth with the Skell,
which being incorporat with the same, they run as one to Thorpe,
then to Alborow, and soone after receiue the Swale.

[Sidenote: Swale.]
Here (saith Leland) I am brought into no little streict, what to
coniecture of the méeting of Isis and Vre, for some saie that the
Isis and the Vre doo méet at Borowbridge, which to me dooth séeme
to be verie vnlikelie, sith Isurium taketh his denomination of Isis
and Vro, for it is often séene that the lesse riuers doo mingle
their names with the greater, as in the Thamesis and other is easie
to be found. Neither is there any more mention of the Vre after
his passage vnder Borowbridge, but onelie of Isis or the Ouze in
these daies, although in old time it held vnto Yorke it selfe,
which of the Vre is truelie called Vrewijc (or Yorke short) or else
my persuasion dooth faile me. I haue red also Ewerwijc and Yorwijc.
But to procéed, and leaue this superfluous discourse.

From Borowbridge, the Ouze goeth to Aldborough, and (receiuing the
Swale by the waie) to Aldworke, taking in Vsburne water, from the
southwest, then to Linton vpon Ouze, to Newton vpon Ouze, and to
[Sidenote: Fosse.]
Munketun, méeting with the Nid yer long, and so going withall to
the Redhouses, to Popleton, Clifton, Yorke (where it crosseth the
Fosse) to Foulfoorth, Middlethorpe, Acaster, & Acaster, Kelfléet,
Welehall, Barelebie, Selbie, Turmonhall, Skurthall, Hokelath, Hoke,
Sandhall, Rednesse, Whitegift, Vslet, Blacketoft, Foxfléet,
Brownfléet, and so into Humber.

[Sidenote: Ouze.]
The course of the Ouze being thus described, and as it were simplie
without his influences, now will I touch such riuers as fall into
the same also by themselues, contrarie to my former proceeding,
imagining a voiage from the Rauenspurne, vntill I come néere to
the head of These, & so southwards about againe by the bottome of
the hillie soile vntill I get to Buxston, Sheffeld, Scrobie, & the
verie south point of Humber mouth, whereby I shall crosse them all
that are to be found in this walke, & leaue (I doubt) some especiall
[Sidenote: Hull or Hulne.]
notice of their seuerall heads and courses. The course of the Hull,
a streame abounding with sturgeon and lampreie, as also the riuers
which haue their issue into the same, being (as I say) alreadie
described, I thinke it not amisse, as by the waie to set downe what
Leland saith thereof, to the end that his trauell shall not altogither
be lost in this behalfe; and for that it is short, and hath one or
two things worthie to be remembred contained in the same.

The Hulne (saith he) riseth of thrée seuerall heads, whereof the
greatest is not far from Driefield, now a small village sixtéene
miles from Hull. Certes it hath beene a goodlie towne, and therein
was the palace of Egbright king of the Northumbers, and place of
sepulture of Alfred the noble king sometime of that nation, who
died there 727, the ninetéene Cal. of Julie, the twentith of his
reigne, and whose toombe or monument dooth yet remaine (for ought
that I doo know to the contrarie) with an inscription vpon the same
written in Latine letters. Néere vnto this towne also is the
Danefield, wherein great numbers of Danes were slaine, and buried
in those hils, which yet remaine there to be séene ouer their bones
and carcasses. The second head (saith he) is at Estburne, and the
third at Emmeswell, and méeting all togither not farre from Drifield,
the water there beginneth to be called Hulne, as I haue said
alreadie.

From hence also it goeth through Beuerleie medowes, and comming at
the last not farre from an arme led from the Hulne by mans hand
(and able to beare great vessels) almost to Beuerleie towne, which
in old time either hight or stood in Deirwald, vntill John of
Beuerleie (whom Leland nameth out of an old author to be the first
doctor or teacher of diuinitie that euer was in Oxford, and (as it
should séeme also by an ancient monument yet remaining) to be of
an hostell where the vniuersitie college now standeth; & therfore
they write him, Somtime fellow of that house) began to be of fame,
of whom it is called Beuerleie (as some affirme) to this daie.
Indéed all the countrie betwéene the Deirwent & the Humber was
sometime called Deira, and the lower part Caua Deira in respect of
the higher soile, but now it is named the east Riding. But what is
this to my purpose? The Hulne therefore being come almost to
Beuerleie towne, & méeting thereabout also with the Cottingham
[Sidenote: Cottingham.]
becke comming from Westwood by the waie, it hasteth to Kingston
vpon Hulne or Hull, and so into the Humber without anie maner
impeachment.

[Sidenote: Fowlneie.]
The Fowlneie riseth about Godmanham, from whence it goeth by Wighton,
[Sidenote: Skelfléet.]
Hareswell, Seton, Williams bridge, and soone after spreading it
selfe, one arme called Skelfleet goeth by Cane Cawseie to Brownefléet
and so into the Ouze. The other passeth by Sandholme, Gilberts
dike, Scalbie chappell, Blacketoft, and so into the aforesaid Ouze,
leauing a verie pretie Iland, which is a parcell (as I heare) of
Walding fen more, though otherwise obscure to vs that dwell here
in the south.

[Sidenote: Darwent.]
The Darwent riseth in the hilles that lie west of Robin Whoodes
baie, or two miles aboue Aiton bridge, west from Scarborow as Leland
saith: and yer it hath run farre from the head, it receiueth two
rilles in one bottome from by west, which ioine withall about
Longdale end. Thence they go togither to Broxeie, and at Hacknesse
take in another water comming from about Silseie. Afterward it
[Sidenote: Kenford.]
commeth to Aiton, then to Haibridge, and there crosseth the Kenford
that descendeth from Roberteston. After this also it goeth on to
Potersbrumton where it taketh in one rill, as it dooth another
beneath running from Shirburne, and the third yet lower on the
further banke, that descendeth from Brumton. From these confluences
it runneth to Fowlbridge, Axbridge, Yeldingham bridge, & so to
Cotehouse, receiuing by the waie manie waters, & yéelding great
plentie of delicate samons to such as fish vpon the same. Leland
reckoning vp the names of the seuerall brookes, numbreth them
[Sidenote: Shirihutton.]
confusedlie after his accustomed order. The Darwent (saith he)
[Sidenote: Crambecke.]
receiueth diuerse streames, as the Shirihutton. The second is the
Crambecke, descending from Hunderskell castell (so called Tanquam
[Sidenote: Rie.]
à centum fontibus, or multitude of springs that rise about the
[Sidenote: Ricoll.]
same) and goeth to Rie, which comming out of the Blackemore, passeth
[Sidenote: Seuen.]
[Sidenote: Costeie.]
[Sidenote: Pickering.]
by Riuers abbeie, taking in the Ricoll on the left hand, then the
Seuen, the Costeie, and Pickering brooke.

The Seuin also (saith he) riseth in the side of Blackemoore, and
thence goeth by Sinnington foure miles from Pickering, and about
a mile aboue a certeine bridge ouer Rie goeth into the streame.
The Costeie in like sort springeth in the verie edge of Pickering
towne, at a place called Keld head, and goeth into the Rie two
miles beneath Pickering, about Kirbie minster. Finallie, Pickering
[Sidenote: Pocklington.]
water ariseth in Blackemoore, and halfe a mile beneath Pickering
falleth into Costeie, meeting by the way with the Pocklington becke,
and an other small rill or two, of whose names I haue no knowledge.
Hitherto Leland. But in mine opinion, it had béene far better to
haue described them thus. Of those waters that fall into the Darwent
beneath Cotehouse, the first commeth from Swenton, the second from
Ebberston, the third from Ollerston, the fourth from Thorneton &
Pickering, and the fift on the other side that commeth thither from
Wintringham. For so should he haue dealt in better order, and rid
his hands of them with more expedition, referring the rest also
vnto their proper places.

But to procéed after mine owne maner. Being past Cotehouse, & yer
[Sidenote: Rie.]
the Darwent come at Wickham, it crosseth the Rie, which riseth of
[Sidenote: Costeie.]
two heads, and ioining west of Locton they run through Glansbie
parke. Finallie, receiuing the Costeie, it méeteth at the last with
an other streame increased by the fals of six waters and more yer
[Sidenote: Seuen.]
it come into the Darwent. The most easterlie of these is called
Seuen, and riseth (as is aforesaid) in Blackemoore, from whence it
goeth by Sinnington, Murton, Normanbie, Newsound, How, and so into
[Sidenote: Don or Done.]
the Rie. The second named Don hath his originall likewise in
[Sidenote: Hodgebecke.]
Blackemoore, and descending by Rasmore, Keldon and Edston (where
[Sidenote: Ricoll.]
it receiueth the Hodgebecke, that commeth by Bernesdale, Kirkedale,
& Welburne) it goeth to Sawlton, and there taketh in first the
Ricoll, that goeth by Careton, and whereof Ridall (as some think,
[Sidenote: Fesse.]
but falslie) doth séeme to take the name. Then Fesse, which riseth
aboue Bilisdale chappell, and méeteth with the Rie at the Shaking
bridge, from whence they go togither vnder the Rie bridge, to Riuis
abbeie, and thence (after it hath crossed a becke from the west)
through a parke of the earle of Rutlands to Newton, Muniton, and
so to Sawton or Sawlton, as I doo find it written. Here also it
[Sidenote: Holbecke.]
taketh in the Holbecke brooke, that commeth thither from by west
by Gilling castell, and Stangraue, from whence it goeth on to
Brabie, next into the Seuen, then into the Rie, and so into the
Darwent, which from thence dooth run to Wickham.

Being past Wickham, it méeteth with a water that commeth thereinto
from Grinston to Setterington at southeast, and thence it goeth on
to Malton and Malton (where the prouerbe saith that a bushell of
rie and an other of malt is woorth but sixpence, carie awaie whilest
you may, so as you can kéepe them from running through the sackes)
Sutton, Wellam, Furbie, and Kirkeham, receiuing by the waie one
rill on the one side and an other on the other, whereof this commeth
from Burdfall, that other from Conisthorpe. From Kirkeham it goeth
to Cramburne and Owsham bridge (crossing by the waie an other brooke
comming from saint Edwards gore, by Faston) then to Aldbie, Buttercram
(aliàs Butterham) bridge, Stamford bridge, Kerbie bridge, Sutton,
Ellerton, Aughton, Bubwith, Wresill, Babthorpe, and so into the
Ouze, wherewith I finish the description of Darwent: sauing that
I haue to let you vnderstand how Leland heard that an arme ran some
time from the head of Darwent also to Scarborow, till such time as
two hils betwixt which it ran, did shalder and so choke vp his
course.

[Sidenote: Fosse.]
The Fosse (a slow streame yet able to beare a good vessell) riseth
in Nemore Calaterio, that is, Galters wood or Cawood, among the
wooddie hilles, and in his descent from the higher ground, he
leaueth Crake castell, on his west side: thence he goeth by Marton
abbeie, Marton, Stillington, Farlington, Towthorpe, Erswijc,
[Sidenote: Kile.]
Huntington, & at Yorke into the Ouze. The Kile riseth flat north
at Newborow, from whence it goeth by Thorneton on the hill, Ruskell
parke, Awne, Tollerton, and so into the Ouze about Newton vpon
[Sidenote: Swale.]
Ouze. The Swale is a right noble riuer, & march in some places
betwéene Richmondshire and Westmerland, it riseth not far from
Pendragon castell in the hilles aboue Kirkedale, and from this
towne it goeth to Kelde chappell, Carret house, Crackepot, Whiteside,
[Sidenote: Barneie.]
and neere vnto Yalen taketh in the Barneie water, which commeth
[Sidenote: Arcleie.]
from the north east. Thence it goeth by Harcaside to Reth (where
[Sidenote: Holgate.]
it méeteth with the Arcleie) and so to Flemington, Grinton, Marrike
(taking in the Holgate that commeth from by south: and in the waie
[Sidenote: Mariske becke.]
to Thorpe, the Mariske becke, or peraduenture Applegarth water, as
Leland calleth it, that descendeth from the north) then to Thorpe,
Applegarth, Richmond, Easbie and Brunton.

Here by north it interteineth two or thrée waters in one chanell,
[Sidenote: Rauenswath.]
called Rauenswath water, whereof the two furthest doo ioine not
farre from the Dawltons, and so go by Rauenswath, Hartfoorth,
Gilling, and at Skebie méet with the third, comming from Richmond
[Sidenote: Rhe.]
beaconward. By west also of Brunton, the Swale méeteth with the
Rhe, running from Resdale, and being past Brunton, it goeth to
Caterijc bridge beneath Brunton, then to Ellerton, Kirkebie, Langton
parua, Thirtoft, Anderbie stéeple: and before it come vnto Gatenbie,
[Sidenote: Bedall aliàs Leming.]
it meeteth with the Bedall brooke, aliàs Lemings becke, that commeth
west of Kellirbie, by Cunstable, Burton, Langthorpe, Bedall, and
[Sidenote: Wiske.]
Leming chappell. From Gattenbie likewise it goeth to Mawbie, & at
Brakenbirie receiueth the Wiske, which is a great water, rising
betwéene two parkes aboue Swanbie in one place, and southeast of
Mountgrace abbeie in another; and after the confluence which is
about Siddlebridge, goeth on betwéene the Rughtons to Appleton,
the Smetons, Birtbie, Hutton Coniers, Danbie, Wijc, Yafford,
Warlabie, and taking in there a rill from Brunton Aluerton, it
procéedeth to Otterington, Newlie, Kirbie Wiske, Newson, and
Blackenburie, there méeting (as I said) with the Swale, that runneth
from thence by Skipton bridge, Catton, Topcliffe, and Raniton, and
aboue Eldmire méeteth with sundrie other rilles in one bottome,
[Sidenote: Cawdebec.]
[Sidenote: Kebecke.]
whereof the northwesterlie is called Cawdebec: the south easterlie
Kebecke, which ioine est of Thorneton moore, and so go to Thorneton
in the stréet, Kiluington, Thruske, Sowerbie, Grastwijc, and soone
[Sidenote: Cuckwolds becke.]
after crossing another growing of the mixture of the Willow, and
likewise of the Cuckewold beckes, which ioine aboue Bridforth, and
running on till it come almost at Dawlton, it maketh confluence
with the Swale, and go thence as one with all their samons by
Thorneton bridge, Mitton vpon Swale, and so into the Ouze.

[Sidenote: Skell.]
The Skell riseth out of the west two miles from Founteines abbeie,
and commeth (as Leland saith) with a faire course by the one side
of Rippon, as the Vre dooth on the other. And on the bankes hereof
stood the famous abbeie called Founteines or Adfontes, so much
renowmed for the lustie monks that sometimes dwelled in the same.
[Sidenote: Lauer.]
It receiueth also the Lauer water (which riseth thrée miles from
Kirbie, and meeteth withall néere vnto Rippon) and finallie falleth
into the Vre, a quarter of a mile beneath Rippon towne, & almost
midwaie betwéene the North and Huicke bridges.

[Sidenote: Nidde.]
The Nidde, which the booke of statutes called Nidor (anno 13. Edw.
1.) and thereto noteth it to be inriched with store of samon, as
are also the Wheof and Aire, riseth among those hilles that lie by
west northwest of Gnarresborow, fiue miles aboue Pakeleie bridge,
and going in short processe of time by Westhouses, Lodgehouses,
Woodhall, Newhouses, Midlesmore, Raunsgill, Cowthouse, Gowthwall,
[Sidenote: Killingale.]
Bureleie, Brimham, Hampeswale, and soone after méeting with the
Killingale becke, it goeth after the confluence by Bilton parke,
Gnaresbridge, Washford, Cathall, Willesthorpe, Munketon, or Nonmocke,
and so into the Ouze, fouretéene miles beneath Gnaresborow, being
increased by the waie with verie few or no waters of anie countenance.
[Sidenote: Couer.]
[Sidenote: Burne.]
Leland hauing said thus much of the Nidde, addeth herevnto the
names of two other waters, that is to saie, the Couer and the Burne,
which doo fall likewise into the Vre or Ouze. But as he saith little
of the same, so among all my pamphlets, I can gather no more of
them, than that the first riseth six miles aboue Couerham by west,
and falleth into the Vre, a little beneath Middleham bridge, which
is two miles beneath the towne of Couerham. As for the Burne, it
riseth at More hilles, and falleth into the said riuer a little
beneath Massham bridge. And so much of these two.

[Sidenote: Wharfe aliàs Gwerfe.]
The Wharffe or Gwerfe ariseth aboue Vghtershaw, from whence it
runneth to Beggermons, Rosemill, Hubberham, Backden, Starbotton,
Kettlewell, Cunniston in Kettlewell, and here it meeteth with a
rill comming from Haltongill chappell, by Arnecliffe, and ioining
withall northeast of Kilneseie crag, it passeth ouer by the lower
grounds to Girsington, and receiuing a rill there also from Tresfeld
parke, it proceedeth on to Brunsall bridge. Furthermore at
Appletréewijc, it méeteth with a rill from by north, and thence
goeth to Barden towre, Bolton, Beth and Misleie hall, where it
crosseth a rill comming from by west, thence to Addingham, taking
in there also another from by west, and so to Ikeleie, and receiuing
yer long another by north from Denton hall, it hasteth to Weston
[Sidenote: Padside.]
[Sidenote: Washburne.]
Vauasour, Oteleie, and Letheleie, where it taketh in the Padside,
& the Washburne (both in one streame from Lindleie ward) and thence
to Casleie chappell, and there it crosseth one from by north, and
another yer long from by south, and so to Yardwood castell, Kerebie,
Woodhall, Collingham, Linton, Wetherbie, Thorpatch, Newton, Tadcaster,
[Sidenote: Cockebecke.]
and when it hath receiued the Cockebecke from southwest, that goeth
by Barwie, Aberfoorth, Leadhall, and Grimston, it runneth to Exton,
Kirbie Wharfe, Vskell, Rither, Nunapleton, & so into the Ouze
beneath Cawood, a castell belonging to the archbishop of Yorke,
where he vseth oft to lie when he refresheth himselfe with change
of aire and shift of habitation, for the auoiding of such infection
as may otherwise ingender by his long abode in one place, for want
of due purgation and airing of his house.

[Sidenote: Air.]
The Air or Arre riseth out of a lake or tarne south of Darnbrooke,
wherein (as I heare) is none other fish but red trowt, and perch.
Leland saith it riseth néere vnto Orton in Crauen, wherfore the
ods is but little. It goeth therefore from thence to Mawlam, Hamlith,
Kirbie, Moldale, Calton hall, Areton, and so foorth till it come
[Sidenote: Otterburne.]
[Sidenote: Winterburne.]
almost to Gargraue, there crossing the Otterburne water on the
west, and the Winterburne on the north, which at Flasbie receiueth
a rill from Helton, as I heare. Being past Gargraue, our Air goeth
on to Eshton, Elswood, and so foorth on, first receiuing a brooke
from southwest (whereof one branch commeth by Marton, the other by
Thorneton, which meete about Broughton) then another from northeast,
that runneth by Skipton castell. After this confluence it hasteth
by manifold windlesses, which caused thirteene bridges at the last
to be ouer the same within a little space, to Newbiggin, Bradleie,
[Sidenote: Glike.]
and Kildwijc, by south east whereof it méeteth with one water from
Mawsis, and Glusburne or Glukesburne, called Glike; another likewise
a little beneath from Seton, beside two rilles from by north, after
[Sidenote: Lacocke.]
[Sidenote: Woorth.]
which confluence it runneth by Reddlesden, and ouer against this
[Sidenote: Moreton.]
towne the Lacocke and the Woorth doo meet withall in one chanell,
as the Moreton water dooth on the north, although it be somewhat
lower. Thence it goeth to Rishfoorth hall, and so to Bungleie,
where it taketh a rill from Denholme parke to Shipeleie, and there
crossing another from Thorneton, Leuenthorpe, and Bradleie, it
goeth to Caluerleie, to Christall, and so to Léedes, where one
water runneth thereinto by north from Wettlewood, & two other from
by south in one chanell, wherof the first hath two armes, of which
the one commeth from Pudseie chappell, the other from Adwalton,
their confluence being made aboue Farnesleie hall. The other likewise
hath two heads, whereof one is aboue Morleie, the other commeth
from Domingleie, and méeting with the first not far southwest of
[Sidenote: Redwell.]
Leedes, they fall both into the Air, and so run with the same to
Swillington, and there taking in the Rodwell becke south of the
[Sidenote: Went.]
bridge, it proceedeth to Ollerton, Castleford, Brotherton &
Ferribridge, there receiuing the Went, a becke from Pontefract or
Pomfret, which riseth of diuerse heads, wherof one is among the
cole pits. Thence to Beall, Berkin, Kellington, middle Hodleseie,
Templehirst, Gowldall, Snath, Rawcliffe, Newland, Armie, and so
into the Ouze with an indifferent course. Of all the riuers in
the north, Leland (in so manie of his bookes as I haue séene) saith
least of this. Mine annotations also are verie slender in the
particular waters wherbie it is increased: wherfore I was compelled
of necessitie to conclude euen thus with the description of the
same, and had so left it in déed, if I had not receiued one other
note more to ad vnto it (euen when the leafe was at the presse)
which saith as followeth in maner word for word.

There is a noble water that falleth into Air, whose head (as I take
it) is about Stanford. From whence it goeth to Creston chappell,
[Sidenote: Hebden.]
to Lingfield, and there about receiuing one rill néere Elfrabright
bridge, and also the Hebden by northwest, it goeth to Brearleie
hall, and so taking in the third by north, it procéedeth on eastward
by Sorsbie bridge chappell (and there a rill from southwest) and
so to Coppeleie hall. Beneath this place I find also that it
receiueth one rill from Hallifax, which riseth from two heads, and
two other from southwest, of which one commeth by Baresland, and
Staneland in one chanell, as I read. So that after this confluence
the aforesaid water goeth on toward Cowford bridge, and as it taketh
in two rilles aboue the same on the north side, so beneath that
bridge there falleth into it a pretie arme increased by sundrie
waters comming from by south, as from Marsheden chappell, from
Holmesworth chappell, and Kirke Heton, each one growing of sundrie
heads; whereof I would saie more, if I had more intelligence of
their seuerall gates and passages.

But to procéed. From Cowford bridge it runneth to Munfeld, and
receiuing yer long one rill from Leuersage hall, and another from
Burshall by Dewesburie, it goeth on northeast of Thornehull, south
of Horbirie thornes, and thereabout crossing one rill from by south
from Woller by new Milner Dam, and soone after another from northwest,
[Sidenote: Chald.]
called Chald, rising in the Peke hils, whereon Wakefield standeth,
and likewise the third from southeast, and Waterton hall, it goeth
by Warmefield, Newland, Altoftes, and finallie into the Aire, west
of Castelworth, as I learne. What the name of this riuer should be
as yet I heare not, and therefore no maruell that I doo not set it
downe, yet is it certeine that it is called Chald, after his
confluence with the Chald, and finallie Chaldair or Chaldar after
it hath ioined with the Air or Ar. But what is this for his
denominations from the head? It shall suffice therefore thus farre
to haue shewed the course thereof: and as for the name I passe it
ouer vntill another time.

[Sidenote: Trent.]
The Trent is one of the most excellent riuers in the land, not
onelie for store of samon, sturgeon, and sundrie other kinds of
delicate fish wherewith it dooth abound, but also for that it is
increased with so manie waters, as for that onelie cause it may be
compared either with the Ouze or Sauerne, I meane the second Ouze,
whose course I haue latelie described. It riseth of two heads
which ioine beneath Norton in the moore, and from thence goeth to
[Sidenote: Foulebrooke.]
Hilton abbeie, Bucknell church, and aboue Stoke receiueth in the
Foulebrooke water, which commeth thither from Tunstall, by Shelton,
and finallie making a confluence they go to Hanfleet, where they
méet with another on the same side, that descendeth from Newcastell
vnder Line, which Leland taketh to be the verie Trent it selfe,
saieng: that it riseth in the hils aboue Newcastell, as may be
séene by his commentaries.

But to proceed. At Trentham, or not farre from thence, it crosseth
a riueret from northeast, whose name I know not, & thence going to
Stone Aston, Stoke Burston, the Sandons and Weston, a little aboue
Shubburne & Hawood, it receiueth the Sow, a great chanell increased
with sundrie waters, which I will here describe, leauing the Trent
[Sidenote: Sow.]
at Shubburne, till I come backe againe. The Sow descendeth from
the hilles, aboue Whitemoore chappell, and goeth by Charleton, and
Stawne, and beneath Shalford ioineth with another by northeast that
commeth from bishops Offeleie, Egleshall, Chesbie, Raunton. After
this confluence also it runneth by Bridgeford, Tillington, &
[Sidenote: Penke.]
Stafford, beneath which towne it crosseth the Penke becke, that
riseth aboue Nigleton, & Berwood, & aboue Penke bridge vniteth it
selfe with another comming from Knightleie ward, by Gnashall church,
Eaton: and so going foorth as one, it is not long yer they fall
into Sow, after they haue passed Draiton, Dunstan, Acton, and
Banswich, where loosing their names, they with the Sow & the Sow
with them doo ioine with the Trent, at Shubburne, vpon the southerlie
banke.

From Shubburne the Trent goeth on to little Harwood (meeting by
the waie one rill at Ousleie bridge, and another south of Riddlesleie)
thence by Hawksberie, Mauestane, Ridware, and so toward Yoxhall;
where I must staie a while to consider of other waters, wherewith
I meet in this voiage. Of these therefore the lesser commeth in by
south from Farwall, the other from by west, a faire streame, and
increased with two brooks, whereof the first riseth in Nedewood
forrest, northeast of Haggersleie parke, whereinto falleth another
[Sidenote: Blith.]
west of Hamsteed Ridware, called Blith, which riseth among the
hilles in Whateleie moore, aboue Weston Conie, and thence going to
the same towne, it commeth to Druicote, aliàs Dracote, Painsleie,
Gratwitch, Grimleie, Aldmaston, Hamstéed, Ridware, and finallie
into the Trent, directlie west of Yoxhall, which runneth also from
thence, & leauing kings Bromleie in a parke (as I take it) on the
left hand, and the Blacke water comming from Southton and Lichfield
on the right, goeth streightwaie to Catton, where it méeteth with
[Sidenote: Tame.]
the Tame, whose course I describe as followeth.

It riseth in Staffordshire (as I remember) not farre from Petteshall,
and goeth foorth by Hamsted, toward Pirihall and Brimichams Aston,
taking in by the waie a rill on each side, whereof the first groweth
through a confluence of two waters, the one of them comming from
Tipton, the other from Aldburie, and so running as one by Wedburie
till they fall into the same. The latter commeth from Woolfhall,
and ioineth with it on the left hand. After this, and when it is
past the aforesaid places, it crosseth in like sort a rill from
[Sidenote: Rhée.]
Smethike ward: thence it goeth to Yarneton hall, beneath which it
[Sidenote: Cole.]
méeteth with the Rhée, and thence through the parke, at Parke hall
by Watercote, crossing finallie the Cole, whose head is in the
forrest by Kingesnorton wood, and hath this course, whereof I now
giue notice. It riseth (as I said) in the forrest by Kingesnorton
wood, and going by Yareleie and Kingeshirst, it méeteth betweene
that and the parke, with a water running betwéene Helmedon and
Sheldon.

Thence it passeth on to Coleshull, by east whereof it ioineth with
[Sidenote: Blith.]
a brooke, mounting southwest of Golihull called Blith, which going
by Henwood and Barston, crosseth on ech side of Temple Balshall,
a rill, whereof one commeth through the Quéenes parke or chase that
lieth by west of Kenelworth, & the other by Kenelworth castell it
selfe, from about Haselie parke. After which confluences it procéedeth
in like maner to Hampton in Arden, and the Packingtons, and so to
[Sidenote: Burne.]
Coleshull, where it meeteth with the Cole, that going a little
further, vniteth it selfe with the Burne on the one side (whereinto
runneth a water comming from Ansleie on the east) and soone after
[Sidenote: Rhée.]
on the other dooth fall into the Tame, that which some call the
Rhée, a common name to all waters that mooue and run from their
head. For [Greek: rheo] in Gréeke is to flow and run, although in
truth it is proper to the sea onelie to flow. Leland nameth the
Brimicham water, whose head (as I heare) is aboue Norffield, so
that his course shuld be by Kingesnorton, Bremicham, Budston hall,
till it fall beneath Yarneton into the Tame it selfe, that runneth
after these confluences on by Lée, Kingesbirie parke, and going by
east of Draiton, Basset parke, to Falkesleie bridge, it méeteth
with another water called Burne, also comming from Hammerwich
church, by Chesterford, Shenton, Thickebrowne, and the north side
of Draiton, Basset parke, wherof I spake before. From hence our
Tame runneth on to Tamworth, there taking in the Anchor by east,
whose description I had in this maner deliuered vnto me.

It riseth aboue Burton, from whence it goeth by Nonneaton, Witherleie
and Atherstone. Yer long also it taketh in a water from northeast,
which commeth by Huglescote, Shapton, Cunston, Twicrosse (vniting
[Sidenote: Anchor.]
it selfe with a water from Bosworth) Ratcliffe, & so to the Anchor,
which after this confluence passeth by Whittendon, Crindon,
Pollesworth, Armington, Tamworth, & so into Tame, that hasteth to
Hopwash, Comberford hall, Telford, and soone after crossing a rill
that riseth short of Swinfield hall, and commeth by Festirike, it
runneth not farre from Croxhall, and so to Catton, thereabout
[Sidenote: Mese.]
receiuing his last increase not worthie to be omitted. This brooke
is named Mese, and it riseth in the great parke that lieth betwéene
Worthington, and Smethike, from whence also it goeth by Ashbie de
la Souche, Packington, Mesham, and Stretton, and therabout crossing
a rill about Nethersale grange, from Ouersale by east, it proceedeth
by Chilcote, Clifton, Croxall, into the Thame, and both out of hand
into the maine riuer a mile aboue Repton. Leland writing of this
riuer (as I earst noted) saith thereof in this wise. Into the Thame
also runneth the Bremicham brooke, which riseth foure or fiue miles
about Bremicham in the Blacke hils in Worcestershire, and goeth
into the aforesaid water a mile aboue Crudworth bridge. Certes
(saith he) this Bremicham is a towne mainteined chieflie by smiths,
nailers, cutlers, edgetoole forgers, lorimers or bitmakers, which
haue their iron out of Stafford and Warwijc shires, and coles also
out of the first countie. Hitherto Leland. Now to resume the Trent,
which being growen to some greatnesse, goeth on to Walton, Drakelow,
and there crossing a water that commeth by Newbold hall, it runneth
to Stapenell, Winshull, Wightmere, and Newton Souch, where it
receiueth two chanels within a short space, to be described apart.

[Sidenote: Dou.]
The first of these is called the Dou or Doue, it riseth about the
thrée shires méere, and is as it were limes betweene Stafford and
Darbishires, vntill it come at the Trent. Descending therefore from
the head, it goeth by Earlesbooth, Pilsburie grange, Hartington,
[Sidenote: Manifold.]
Wolscot, Eaton, Hunsington grange, and aboue Thorpe receiueth the
Manifold water, so called, bicause of the sundrie crinckling rills
that it receiueth, and turnagaines that it selfe sheweth before it
come at the Dou. Rising therefore not farre from Axe edge crosse
(in the bottome thereby) it runneth from thence to Longmore, Shéene,
[Sidenote: Hansleie.]
Warslow chappell, and Welton. Beneath Welton also it taketh in
the Hansleie water, that commeth out of Blackemoore hilles to
Watersall, where it falleth into the ground: and afterward mounting
againe is receiued into the Manifold, north of Throwleie (as I
heare) which goeth from thence to Ilam, and aboue Thorpe dooth cast
it selfe into Dou. Hauing therefore met togither after this maner,
the Dou procéedeth on to Maplington, beneath which it crosseth one
water descending from Brassington by Fennie Bentleie, and another
somewhat lower that commeth from Hocston hall by Hognaston and
[Sidenote: Churne.]
Ashburne, and then going to Matterfield, Narburie, Ellaston, Rawston
Rowcester, it meeteth with the Churne, euen here to be described
before I go anie further. It riseth a good waie aboue Delacrasse
[Sidenote: Dunsmere.]
abbie, and comming thither by Hellesbie wood, it taketh in the
Dunsmere, betwéene Harracrasse and Leike.

[Sidenote: Yendor.]
Thence it goeth to the Walgrange, and a little beneath receiueth
the Yendor that commeth from aboue Harton, thence to Cheddleton,
[Sidenote: Aula Canuti.]
[Sidenote: Ashenhirst.]
and hauing crossed the Ashenhirst brooke aboue Cnutes hall, it
runneth by Ypston, Froghall, Below hill, Alton castell, Préestwood,
and at Rowcester falleth into the Dou, which yer long also receiueth
[Sidenote: Teine.]
a rill from Crowsden, and then going to Eton méeteth first with
the Teine that commeth thither from each side of Chedleie by
[Sidenote: Vttoxeter or Vncester.]
Teinetowne, Bramhirst and Stranehill. Secondlie with the Vncester
or Vttoxeter water, and then going on to Merchington, Sidberie,
Cawlton, it crosseth a brooke from Sidmister college, by Saperton.
From this confluence in like sort it passeth foorth to Tilberie
castell, Marston, and at Edgerton méeteth with the water that
commeth from Yeldersleie by Longford (whereinto runneth another
that commeth from Hollington) and so to Hilton. These waters being
thus ioined, and manie ends brought into one, the Dou it selfe
falleth yer long likewise into the Trent, aboue Newton Souch. So
that the maine riuer being thus inlarged, goeth onwards with his
course, and betwéene Willington and Repton meeteth with two waters
on sundrie sides, whereof that which falleth in by Willington,
riseth néere Dawberie Lies, and runneth by Trusselie and Ashe: the
other that entereth aboue Repton, descendeth from Hartesburne, so
that the Trent being past these, hasteth to Twiford, Inglebie,
[Sidenote: Darwent.]
Staunton, Weston, Newton, and Aston, yer long also méeting with
the Darwent; next of all to be dispatched. The Darwent, or (to vse
the verie British word) Dowr gwine (but in Latine Fluuius Dereuantanus)
riseth plaine west, néere vnto the edge of Darbishire, aboue
Blackwell a market towne, and from the head runneth to the New
chappell, within a few miles after it be risen. From hence moreouer
it goeth by Howden house, Darwent chappell, Yorkeshire bridge, and
[Sidenote: Neue.]
at Witham bridge dooth crosse the Neue or Nouius that commeth from
Newstole hill, by Netherburgh, Hope (crossing there one rill from
Castelton, another from Bradwell, and the third at Hathersage, from
Stonie ridge hill) and so goeth on to Padleie, Stockehall, receiuing
[Sidenote: Burbroke.]
a rill by the waie from by west, to Stonie Middleton, and Baslow,
and hauing here taken in the Burbrooke on the one side, and another
from Halsop on the other, it goeth to Chatworth and to Rowseleie,
where it is increased with the Wie comming from by west, and also
a rill on the east, a little higher. But I will describe the Wie
before I go anie further.

[Sidenote: Wie.]
[Sidenote: Hawkeshow.]
The Wie riseth aboue Buxston well, and there is increased with the
[Sidenote: Wile.]
Hawkeshow, and the Wile brooke, whose heads are also further distant
from the edge of Darbishire than that of Wie, and races somwhat
longer, though neither of them be worthie to be accompted long.
For the Wile, hauing two heads, the one of them is not farre aboue
the place where Wilebecke abbeie stood, the other is further off
by west, about Wilebecke towne: and finallie ioining in one they
runne to Cuckneie village, where receiuing a becke that commeth
downe from by west, it holdeth on two miles further, there taking
[Sidenote: Rufford aliàs Manbecke.]
in the second rill, and so resort to Rufford, or the Manbecke. Vnto
this also doo other two rills repaire, wherof the one goeth through
and the other hard by Maunsfield, of which two also this latter
riseth west about foure miles, and runneth foorth to Clipston (three
miles lower) and so likewise to Rufford, whereof I will speake
hereafter. In the meane time to returne againe to the Wie. From
Buxston well, it runneth to Staddon, Cowdale, Cowlow, New medow,
[Sidenote: Lathkell.]
Milhouses, Bankewell, and Haddon hall, beneath which it receiueth
[Sidenote: Bradford.]
the Lath kell, that runneth by Ouerhaddon, and the Bradford, both
in one bottome after they be ioined in one at Alport. And this is
the first great water that our Darwent dooth méet withall. Being
therefore past the Rowsleies, the said Darwent goeth to Stancliffe,
Darleie in the peake, Wensleie, Smitterton hall, and at Matlocke
taketh in a rill by northeast, as it dooth another at Crumford that
goeth by Boteshall.

From Mattocke, it procéedeth to Watston, or Watsond, Well bridge,
[Sidenote: Amber.]
Alderwash, and ioineth with another streame called Amber comming
in from by north by Amber bridge, whose description shall insue in
this wise, as I find it. The head of Amber is aboue Edleston hall,
or (as Leland saith) est of Chesterfield, and comming from thence
by Middleton to Ogston hall, it taketh withall another brooke,
descending from Hardwijc wood, by Alton and Streton. Thence it
goeth to Higham, Brackenfield, and aboue Dale bridge meeteth with
a brooke running from Hucknalward to Shireland parke side, there
[Sidenote: Moreton.]
crossing the Moreton becke, and so to Alferton, except I name it
wrong. From Dale bridge it goeth by Wingfeld, to Hedge, Fritchlin,
and so into Darwent, taking the water withall that descendeth from
Swanswijc by Pentridge, as Leland doth remember. From this confluence
likewise it runneth to Belper, where it méeteth with a rill comming
[Sidenote: Eglesburne.]
from Morleie parke: thence to Makenie, and at Duffeld, receiueth
the Eglesburne, which ariseth about Wirkesworth or Oresworth, but
in the same parish out of a rocke, and commeth in by Turnedich.
From Duffeld, it passeth to Bradsall, Darleie abbeie, and at Darbie
taketh in a rill comming from Mirkaston by Weston vnderwood,
Kidleston and Merton. If a man should say that Darwent riuer giueth
name to Darbie towne, he should not well know how euerie one would
take it, and peraduenture therby he might happen to offend some.
In the meane time I beleeue it, let other iudge as pleaseth them,
sith my coniecture can preiudice none. To proceed therefore. From
Darbie it runneth on by Aluaston, Ambaston, the Welles, and so into
Trent, which goeth from hence to Sawleie, and north of Thrumpton
[Sidenote: Sora, or Surus.]
taketh in the Sore, a faire streame, and not worthie to be ouerpassed.

It riseth in Leicestershire aboue Wigton, and thence goeth to
Sharneford, Sapcote, and beneath Staunton taketh in a rill that
commeth by Dounton and Broughton Astleie. Thence to Marleborow,
and before it come to Eston, crosseth another on the same side
(descending by Burton, Glen, Winstow, Kilbie and Blabie) then to
[Sidenote: Eie.]
Leircester towne, Belgraue, Burstall, Wanlip; and yer it come at
[Sidenote: _Leland_ calleth one of these rilles Croco.]
Cussington or Cositon, crosseth the Eie, which riseth néere Occam
aboue Bramston, going by Knawstow, Somerbie, Pickwell, Whitesonden;
and beneath (a litle) receiueth a rill on the right hand, from
Coldnorton. Thence to Stapleford, & soone after crossing a brooke
from aboue Sproxton, Coson, Garthorpe and Sarbie, it runneth to
Wiuerbie, Brentingbie; and yer it come at Milton, meeteth with two
other small rilles, from the right hand whereof one commeth from
about Caldwell by Thorpe Arnold, and Waltham in the Would; the
other from Skaleford ward, and from Melton goeth by Sisonbie, there
méeting with another from northeast ouer against Kirbie Hellars,
[Sidenote: Warke, Vrke, or Wreke.]
after which time the name of Eie is changed into Warke or Vrke,
and so continueth vntill it come at the Soure. From hence also it
goeth to Asterbie, Radgale, Habie, Trussington, Ratcliffe; and
soone after crosseth sundrie waters not verie farre in sunder,
whereof one commeth from Oueston, by Twiford, Ashbie, and Gadesbie;
another from Losebie, by Baggraue, and Crawston, and ioining with
the first at Ouennihow, it is not long yer they fall into the Warke.
The second runneth from Engarsbie, by Barkeleie, and Sison. But
the third and greatest of the thrée, is a chanell increased with
thrée waters, whereof one commeth from Norton by Burton, Kilbie,
Foston and Blabie, the other from Dounton by Broughton and Astleie,
and meeting with the third from Sapcoth, and stonie Staunton, they
run togither by Narborow, and soone after ioining aboue Elston,
with the first of the thrée, they go as one by Elston to Leircester,
Belgraue, Wanlip, and aboue Cussington doo fall into the Warke,
and soone after into the Soure. The Soure in like sort going from
thence to mount Sorrell, & taking in another brooke southwest from
Leircester forrest, by Glenfield, Austie, Thurcaston and Rodelie,
ioineth with the Soure, which goeth from thence to mount Sorrell,
and Quarendon (where it taketh in a water comming from Charnewood
forrest, and goeth by Bradegate and Swithland) and then procéedeth
to Cotes, Lughborow and Stanford, there also taking in one rill
out of Nottinghamshire by northeast; and soone after another from
southwest, comming from Braceden to Shepesheued, Garrington, &
Dighlie grange, and likewise the third from Worthington, by Disworth,
long Whitton, and Wathorne. Finallie, after these confluences, it
hasteth to Sutton, Kingston, and Ratcliffe, and so into the Trent.

These things being thus brought togither, and we now resuming the
discourse of the same riuer, it dooth after his méeting with the
[Sidenote: Erwash.]
Soure, proceed withall to Barton, where it taketh in the Erwash,
which riseth about Kirbie, and thence goeth to Selston, Wansbie,
Codnor castell, Estwood, and crossing a water from Beuall, runneth
to Coshall, Trowell (and there taking in another rill comming from
Henor by Shipleie) it proceedeth on to Stapleford, long Eaton, and
so into the Trent. This being doone it goeth to Clifton, and yer
it come at Wilford, it méeteth with a brooke that passeth from
Staunton by Bonnie and Rodington, and thence to Notingham, where
it crosseth the Line, which riseth aboue Newsted; and passing by
Papplewijc, Hucknall, Bafford, Radford and Linton, next of all to
Thorpe & Farmdon, where it brancheth and maketh an Iland, and into
the smaller of them goeth a brooke from Beuer castell, which rising
[Sidenote: Dene.]
betweene east Well and Eaton in Leircester is called the Dene, and
from thence runneth by Bramston to Knipton, & beneath Knipton
méeteth with a brooke that commeth by west of Croxston, and thence
holdeth on with his course, betwéene Willesthorpe and Beuer castell
[Sidenote: Snite.]
aforesaid, and so to Bottesworth, Normanton, Killington, Shilton,
there receiuing the Snite from by south (whose head is néere
Clauston, & course from thence by Hickling, Langer, Whalton, Orston,
and Flareborow) and yer long another comming from Bingham, and
Sibthorpe. Thence our Trent runneth to Coxam, Hawton, Newarke
castell, and so to Winthorpe, where the branches are reunited, and
thence going on by Holme to Cromwell (and soone after taking in a
brooke comming from Bilsthorpe, by Kersall, Cawnton, Norwell and
Willowbie) to Carlton, and to Sutton, there making a litle Ile,
then to Grinton, where it toucheth a streame on ech side, whereof
one commeth from Morehouse by Weston & Gresthorpe, another from
Langthorpe, by Collingham, and Bosthorpe. From hence likewise it
passeth to Clifton, Newton, Kettlethorpe, Torkeseie, Knash,
Gainsborow, Waltrith, Stockwith; and leauing Axholme on the left
hand, it taketh withall Hogdike water out of the Ile, and so goeth
foorth to Wildsworth, Eastferrie, Frusworth, Burringham, Gummeis,
Hixburgh, Burton, Walcote, and at Ankerburie into the Humber,
receiuing the swift Doue by the waie, which for his noblenesse is
not to be ouerpassed, especiallie for that Anno 1536 Hen. 8, 28,
it was (by Gods prouidence) a staie of great bloudshed like to haue
fallen out betwéene the kings side and the rebelles of the north,
[Sidenote: A miracle.]
in a quarrell about religion. For the night before the battle should
haue béene stricken, and without anie apparent cause (a little
showre of raine excepted farre vnpossible vpon such a sudden to
haue made so great a water) the said riuer arose so high, & ran
with such vehemencie; that on the morow the armies could not ioine
to trie & fight it out: after which a pacification insued, and
those countries were left in quiet. Secondlie, the description
hereof is not to be ouerpassed, bicause of the fine grasse which
groweth vpon the banks thereof, which is so fine and batable, that
there goeth, a prouerbe vpon the same; so oft as a man will commend
his pasture, to say that there is no better féed on Doue banke:
that maketh it also the more famous.

[Sidenote: Doue.]
The Doue therefore riseth in Yorkeshire among the Peke hilles, and
hauing receiued a water comming by Ingbirchworth (where the colour
thereof is verie blacke) it goeth to Pennistone, which is foure
[Sidenote: Midhop.]
miles from the head: then by Oxspring to Thurgoland, and soone
after (ioining by the waie with the Midhop water, that runneth by
Midhop chappell, and Hondshelfe) it méeteth with another comming
from Bowsterston chappell. Then goeth it by Waddesleie wood to
Waddesleie bridge, and at Aluerton receiueth the Bradfeld water.
Then passeth it to Crokes, and so to Sheffeld castell (by east
whereof it receiueth a brooke from by south that commeth through
[Sidenote: Cowleie.]
Sheffeld parke.) Thence it procéedeth to Westford bridge, Briksie
bridge; and southwest of Timsleie receiueth the Cowleie streame
[Sidenote: Rother.]
that runneth by Ecclefield. Next of all it goeth to Rotheram, where
it méeteth with the Rother, a goodlie water, whose head is in
Darbieshire about Pilsleie, from whence it goeth vnder the name of
Doleie, till it come at Rotheram, by north Winfield church,
Wingerworth, and Foreland hall, twelue miles from Rotheram, to
[Sidenote: Iber.]
[Sidenote: Brampton.]
Chesterford, where it méeteth with the Iber, and Brampton water
that commeth by Holme hall, both in one chanell. Thence it runneth
to Topton castell, and yer long crossing one water comming from
Dronefeld by Whittington on the one side, and the second from aboue
Birmington on the other, it goeth through Stalie parke, and soone
after méeteth with the Crawleie becke, whereof I find this note.

[Sidenote: Crawleie.]
The Crawleie riseth not farre from Hardwijc, and going by Stanesbie
and Woodhouse, it receiueth aboue Netherthorpe, one water on the
one side comming from the Old parke, and another from Barlborow
hill on the other, that runneth not farre from Woodthorpe. After
this confluence likewise they run as one into the Rother, which
hasteth from thence to Eckington (there crossing a rill that runneth
[Sidenote: Gunno.]
by Birleie hill) and so to Kilmarsh, in the confines of Darbieshire,
where it taketh in the Gunno from by east. Thence to Boughton,
[Sidenote: Mesebrooke.]
vniting it selfe therabout with another by west from Gledles, called
Mesebrooke, which diuideth Yorkeshire from Darbieshire, and so
runneth to Treton, Whiston, there taking in a rill from Aston, and
so to Rotheram, where it méeteth with the Doue, and from whence
our Doue (yéelding plentie of samon all the waie as it passeth)
hasteth to Aldwarke, Swaiton, Mexburge, there taking in the Darne,
which I will next describe, and staie with the Doue, vntill I haue
finished the same. It riseth at Combworth, and so commeth about by
Bretton hall, to Darton ward, where it crosseth a water that runneth
from Gonthwake hall, by Cawthorne vnited of two heads. From hence
it goeth to Burton grange, then to Drax, where it toucheth with a
water from southwest, & then goeth to Derfield and Goldthorpe:
but yer it come to Sprotborow, it vniteth it selfe with a faire
riuer, increased by diuerse waters, before it come at the Doue, &
whereinto it falleth (as I heare) northeast of Mexburgh. After this
confluence likewise the Doue goeth by Sprotborow, to Warnesworth,
[Sidenote: Hampall.]
Doncaster, Wheatleie, (there méeting with the Hampall créeke on
the northeast side, which riseth east of Kirbie) thence to Sandall,
Kirke Sandall, Branwith ferrie, Stanford, Fishlake, and so to
Thuorne or Thurne, where it crosseth the Idle (whose description
followeth) and finallie into Trent, and so into the Humber.

But before I deale with the description of the Idle, I will adde
somewhat of the Rume, a faire water. For though the description
thereof be not so exactlie deliuered me as I looked for; yet such
as it is I will set downe, conferring it with Lelands booke, and
helping their defect so much as to me is possible. It riseth by
south of Maunsfield, fiue miles from Rumford abbeie, and when the
streame commeth neere the abbeie, it casteth it selfe abroad and
maketh a faire lake. After this it commeth againe into a narrow
[Sidenote: Budbie.]
[Sidenote: Gerberton.]
chanell, and so goeth on to Rumford village, carrieng the Budbie
and the Gerberton waters withall. From thence, and with a méetlie
long course, it goeth to Bawtrie or Vautrie, a market towne in
Nottinghamshire, fiue miles from Doncaster, and so into the Trent.
[Sidenote: Girt.]
Beneath Rumford also commeth in the Girt, which goeth vnto Southwell
milles, and so into the Trent. Now as concerning our Idle.

[Sidenote: Idle.]
The Idle, which some call Brier streame, riseth at Sutton in
Ashfield, from whence it runneth to Maunsfield, Clipston & Allerton,
where it taketh in a water that riseth in the forrest, one mile
north of Bledworth, and runneth on by Rughford abbeie, till it come
[Sidenote: Manbecke.]
to Allerton. The forresters call this Manbecke, whereof Leland also
speaketh, who describeth it in this maner. Manbrooke riseth somewhere
about Linthirst wood, from whence it goeth to Blisthorpe, and so
to Allerton. But to procéed. The Idle hauing taken in the Manbecke,
it runneth to Bothomsall, by Boughton, & Perlethorpe: but yer it
[Sidenote: Meding becke.]
come there, it méeteth the Meding Maiden, or Midding brooke, which
rising about Teuersall, goeth to Pleasleie, Nettleworth, Sawcan,
Warsop, Budleie, Thursbie, Bothomsall, and so into the Idle. After
this it proceedeth to Houghton, west Draiton, but yer it touch at
[Sidenote: Wilie.]
Graunston or Gaunston, it taketh in the Wilie, which commeth from
Clowne, to Creswell, Holbecke, Woodhouse, Wilebecke, Normenton,
Elsleie, Graunston, and so into the Idle. Being thus increased,
the Idle runneth on to Idleton, Ordsall, Retford, Bollam, Tilneie,
[Sidenote: Blith.]
Matterseie abbeie, and so to Bawtrie, where it méeteth another from
the shire Okes, that riseth aboue Geitford, passeth on to Worksop
(or Radfurth) Osberton, Bilbie, and Blith, there vniting it selfe
with thrée rilles in one bottome, whereof one commeth from Waldingwell
to Careleton, and so thorough a parke to Blith towne, another from
by west Furbecke thrée miles, and so to Blith: but the third out
of the White water néere to Blith, and there being vnited they
passe on to Scrobie, and so into the Idle.

From hence it runneth on to Missen, to Sadlers bridge, and next of
[Sidenote: Sandbecke.]
all to Santoft, where it méeteth with the Sandbecke, which rising
not farre from Sandbecke towne, passeth by Tickhill, Rosington
bridge, Brampton, Rilholme, Lindholme, and one mile south of Santoft
into the Idle water, which runneth from thence to Thorne, where it
méeteth with the Doue, and so with it to Crowleie. Finallie,
inuironing the Ile of Axeholme, it goeth vnto Garthorpe, Focorbie,
& so into the Trent. Leland writing of the Wilie, Wile, or Gwilie
(as some write it) saith thus therof. The Wile hath two heads,
whereof one is not farre aboue the place where Wilbecke abbeie
stood; the other riseth further off by west aboue Welbecke or
Wilebecke towne: finallie ioining in one, they runne to Cuckeneie
village, where crossing a becke that commeth in from by west, it
holdeth on two miles further, there taking in the second rill, and
so resort to Rufford. To this riuer likewise (saith he) doo two
other waters repaire, whereof the one goeth hard by Maunsfield
(rising foure miles from thence by west) and then commeth thrée
miles lower to Rufford; the other (so far as I remember) goeth
quite through the towne.




OF SUCH FALLES OF WATERS AS IOINE WITH THE SEA, BETWEENE HUMBER
AND THE THAMES.

CHAP. XVI.


Hauing in this maner described the Ouze, and such riuers as fall
into the same: now it resteth that I procéed in my voiage toward
the Thames, according to my former order. Being therefore come
againe into the maine sea, I find no water of anie countenance or
[Sidenote: Ancolme.]
course (to my remembrance) till I come vnto the Ancolme a goodlie
water, which riseth east of Mercate Rasing, and from thence goeth
by middle Rasing. Then receiuing a short rill from by south, it
runneth on vnder two bridges, by the waie, till it come to Wingall,
northeast; where also it méeteth with another brooke, from Vsselbie
that commeth thither by Vresbie, goeth by Cadneie (taking in the
two rilles in one bottome, that descend from Howsham, and north
Leiseie) and thence to Newsted, Glanford, Wardeleie, Thorneham,
Applebie, Horslow, north Ferribie, and so into the sea.

[Sidenote: Kilis.]
Being past Ancolme, we go about the Nesse, and so to the fall of
the water which commeth from Kelebie, by Cotham abbeie, Nersham
abbeie, Thorneton, and leaning Coxhill by west, it falleth into
the Ocean. The next is the fall of another brooke comming from
Fleting, all alongst by Stallingburne. Then crossed we Grimsbie
gullet, which issuing aboue Erebie commeth to Lasebie, the two
Cotes, and then into the sea. After this we passed by another
portlet, whose backwater descendeth from Balesbie by Ashbie,
Briggesleie, Wath, and Towneie, and finallie to the next issue,
before we come at Saltflete, which branching at the last, leaueth
a prettie Iland wherein Comsholme village standeth. This water
riseth short (as I heare) of Tathewell, from whence it goeth to
Rathbie, Hallington, Essington, Lowth, Kidirington, Auingham, and
then branching aboue north Somerton, one arme méeteth with the sea,
by Grauethorpe, the other by north of Somercote.

[Sidenote: Saltflete.]
Saltflete water hath but a short course: for rising among the
Cockeringtons, it commeth to the sea, at Saltflete hauen: howbeit
the next vnto it is of a longer race, for it riseth (as I take it)
at Cawthorpe paroch, and descendeth by Legburne, the Carletons,
the west middle and east Saltfletes, and so into the Ocean. The
water that riseth aboue Ormesbie and Dribie, goeth to Cawsbie,
Swabie abbeie, Clathorpe, Belew, Tattle, Witherne, Stane, and
northeast of Thetilthorpe into the maine sea.

[Sidenote: Maplethorpe.]
Maplethorpe water riseth at Tharesthorpe, and going by Markeleie,
Folethorpe, and Truthorpe, it is not long yer it méet with the
Germane Ocean. Then come we to the issue that commeth from aboue
the Hotoft, and thence to Mumbie chappell, whither the water comming
from Claxbie, Willowbie, and Slouthbie (and whereinto another rill
falleth) dooth runne, as there to doo homage vnto their lord and
souereigne. As for Ingold mill créeke, I passe it ouer, and come
straight to another water, descending from Burge by Skegnes. From
hence I go to the issue of a faire brooke, which (as I heare) dooth
rise at Tetford, and thence goeth by Somerbie, Bagenderbie,
Ashwardbie, Sawsthorpe, Partneie, Ashbie, the Stepings, Thorpe
croft, and so into the sea. As for Wainflete water, it commeth from
the east sea, and goeth betwéene S. Maries & Alhallowes by Wainflete
towne, and treading the path of his predecessors, emptieth his
chanell to the maintenance of the sea.

Now come I to the course of the Witham, a famous riuer, whereof
goeth the biword, frequented of old, and also of Ancolme, which I
before described:

  Ancolme ele, and Witham pike,
  Search all England and find not the like.

[Sidenote: Lindis, Witham, Rhe.]
Leland calleth it Lindis, diuerse the Rhe, and I haue read all
these names my selfe: and thereto that the Lincolneshire men were
called in old time Coritani, and their head citie Lindus, Lindon,
or Linodunum, in which region also Ptolomie placeth Rage, which
some take to be Notingham, except my memorie doo faile me. It riseth
among the Wickhams, in the edge of Lincolnshire, and (as I take
it) in south-Wickham paroch, from whence it goeth to Colsterworth,
Easton, Kirkestoke Paunton, and Paunton Houghton, and at Grantham
taketh in a rill from by southwest, as I heare. From Grantham it
runneth to Man, Thorpe, Bolton, and Barneston, where crossing a
becke from northeast, it procéedeth further southwest ward by
Mereston, toward Faston (there also taking in a brooke that riseth
about Denton, and goeth by Sidbrooke) it hasteth to Dodington,
Clapale, Barmebie, Beckingham, Stapleford, Bassingham, Thursbie,
and beneath Amburgh crosseth a water that commeth from Stogilthorpe
by Somerton castell.

After this confluence also, our Witham goeth still foorth on his
waie to the Hickhams, Boltham, Bracebridge, and Lincolne it selfe,
for which the Normans write Nicholl by transposition of the letters,
or (as I may better saie) corruption of the word. But yer it come
there, it maketh certeine pooles (whereof one is called Swan poole)
and soone after diuiding it selfe into armes, they run both thorough
the lower part of Lincolne, each of them hauing a bridge of stone
ouer it, thereby to passe through the principall stréet: and as
the bigger arme is well able to beare their fisher botes, so the
[Sidenote: Fosse dike.]
lesser is not without his seuerall commodities. At Lincolne also
this noble riuer méeteth with the Fosse dike, whereby in great
floods vessels may come from the Trents side to Lincolne. For
betwéene Torkseie, where it beginneth, and Lincolne citie, where
it endeth, are not aboue seuen miles, as Leland hath remembred.
Bishop Atwater began to clense this ditch, thinking to bring great
vessels from Trent to Lincolne in his time: but sith he died before
it was performed, there hath no man beene since so well minded as
to prosecute his purpose. The course moreouer of this our streame
following, from Lincolne to Boston is fiftie miles by water: but
if you mind to ferrie, you shall haue but 24. For there are foure
common places where men are ferried ouer; as Short ferrie, fiue
miles from Lincolne, Tatersall ferrie, eight miles from Short
ferrie, Dogdike ferrie a mile, Langreth ferrie fine miles, and so
manie finallie to Boston.

But to go forward with the course of Lindis (whereof the whole
prouince hath béene called Lindeseie) when it is past Lincolne, it
goeth by Shepewash, Wassingburg, Fiskerton, and soone after taketh
in sundrie riuers in one chanell, whereby his greatnesse is verie
much increased. From this confluence it goeth to Bardolfe, and
there receiuing a rill (descending from betweene Sotbie and Randbie,
and going by Harton) it slideth foorth by Tupham to Tatersall
castell, taking vp there in like sort thrée small rills by the
waie, whereof I haue small notice as yet: and therefore I referre
them vnto a further consideration to be had of them hereafter, if
it shall please God that I may liue to haue the filing of these
rude pamphlets yet once againe, & somewhat more leasure to peruse
them than at this time is granted. Finallie, being past Tatersall,
and Dogdike ferrie, the Witham goeth toward Boston, & thence into
the sea. Thus haue I brieflie dispatched this noble riuer Witham.
But hauing another note deliuered me thereof from a fréend, I will
yéeld so farre vnto his gratification, that I will remember his
trauell here, and set downe also what he hath written thereof,
although the riuer be sufficientlie described alredie.

[Sidenote: Witham.]
Into Witham therefore from by north, and seuen miles beneath
[Sidenote: Hake.]
Lincolne, there falleth a faire water, the head whereof is at
Hakethorne, from whence it goeth by Hanworth, Snarford, Resbie,
Stainton, and at Bullington méeteth with a water on ech side,
whereof one commeth from Haiton and Torrington, the other from
Sudbrooke, and likewise beneath Birlings with the third comming
from Barkeworth by Stansted, and ioining all in one, soone after
it is not long yer it fall into the chanell of Witham, and so are
neuer more heard of. There is also a brooke by southwest, that
[Sidenote: Bane.]
commeth from Kirbie to Cateleie, Billingams, and the Ferrie. At
Tatersall it méeteth with the Bane, which riseth aboue Burgh, and
néere vnto Ludford goeth downe to Dunnington, Stanigod, Hemmingsbie,
Bamburgh, Fillington, Horne castell, (where it crosseth a rill from
Belchworth) Thornton, Marton, Halton, Kirkebie, Comsbie, Tatersall,
and so to Dogdike ferrie.

Aboue Boston likewise it taketh in a water comming from Lusebie by
Bolingbrooke, Stickeford, Stickneie, Sibbeseie and Hildrike. And
to Boston towne it selfe doo finallie come sundrie brookes in one
chanell, called Hammond becke, which rising at Donesbie, runneth
on to Wrightbold, where it casteth one arme into Holiwell water.
Thence it hasteth toward Dunnington, receiuing four brookes by the
[Sidenote: Bollingborow.]
waie, whereof the first commeth from Milthorpe, the second from
[Sidenote: Sempringham.]
Fokingham, called Bollingborow, or (after some, I wote not vpon
what occasion) Sempringham water, the third from Bridge end, the
fourth from Sempringham, and afterwards the maine streame is found
to run by Kirton holme, and so into the Witham. Into the Wiland
likewise falleth the Holiwell, which riseth of a spring that runneth
toward the east from Haliwell to Onebie, Esonden, Gretford, and so
to Catbridge, where it receiueth another rising at Witham and west
or Manthorpe, and the second comming from Laund, and so run from
thence togither to Willesthorpe and Catbridge, and then into the
Haliwell, which after these confluences goeth to Tetford and
Eastcote, where it méeteth with a draine, comming from Bourne, and
so through the fennes to Pinchbecke, Surfleet, and Fosdike, where
it meeteth with the Welland, in the mouth of the Wash, as I haue
noted vnto you.

[Sidenote: Wiland.]
Hauing thus set foorth the riuers that fall into the Witham, now
come we to the Wiland or Welland, wherevnto we repaire after we be
past Boston, as drawing by litle and litle toward the Girwies,
which inhabit in the fennes (for Gir in the old Saxon speach dooth
signifie déepe fennes and marishes) and these beginning at Peterborow
eastward, extend themselues by the space of thrée score miles &
more, as Hugh of Peterborow writeth. This streame riseth about
Sibbertoft, and running betwéene Bosworth and Howthorpe, it goeth
[Sidenote: Braie.]
to Féedingworth, Merson, Bubberham, Trussell, Herborow (receiuing
there the Braie, which commeth from Braiebrooke castell) to Bowton,
Weston, Wiland, Ashleie, Medburne, Rokingham, and Cawcot, where a
riueret called little Eie méeteth withall, comming from east Norton
by Alexstone, Stocke, Faston, and Drie stocke. From Cawcot it goeth
to Gritto, Harringworth, Seton, Wauerlie, Duddington, Collie Weston,
[Sidenote: Warke.]
Eston, and there ioineth with the third called Warke, not far from
[Sidenote: Brooke water.]
Ketton, which commeth from Lie by Preston, Wing, Lindon, Luffenham,
&c. Thence it goeth on by Tinwell, to Stanford (crossing the Brooke
[Sidenote: Whitnell.]
water, and Whitnelbecke, both in one bottome) and from Stanford by
Talington, Mareie, to Mercate Deeping, Crowland (where it almost
méeteth with the Auon) then to Spalding, Whapland, and so into the
sea.

Leland writing of this Wiland, addeth these words which I will not
omit, sith in mine opinion they are worthie to be noted, for better
consideration to be had in the said water and his course. The Wiland
(saith he) going by Crowland, at Newdrene diuideth it selfe into
[Sidenote: Newdrene.]
two branches, of which one goeth vp to Spalding called Newdrene,
[Sidenote: South.]
and so into the sea at Fossedike Stow: the other named the South
[Sidenote: Writhlake.]
into Wisbech. This latter also parteth it selfe two miles from
Crowland, & sendeth a rill called Writhlake by Thorneie, where it
méeteth with an arme of the Nene, that commeth from Peterborow,
and holdeth course with the broad streame, till it be come to Murho,
six miles from Wisbech, where it falleth into the South.

[Sidenote: Shéepes eie.]
Out of the South in like sort falleth another arme called Sheepes
eie and at Hopelode (which is fouretéene miles from Lin) did fall
into the sea. But now the course of that streame is ceased, wherevpon
the inhabitants susteine manie grieuous flouds, bicause the mouth
is stanched, by which it had accesse before into the sea. Hitherto
Leland. Of the course of this riuer also from Stanford, I note this
furthermore out of another writing in my time. Being past Stanton
(saith he) it goeth by Burghleie, Vffington, Tallington, Mareie,
Déeping, east Deeping, and comming to Waldram hall, it brancheth
into two armes, whereof that which goeth to Singlesole, receiueth
the Nene out of Cambridgeshire, and then going by Dowesdale,
Trekenhole, and winding at last to Wisbech, it goeth by Liuerington,
saint Maries, and so into the sea. The other arme hasteth to
Crowland, Clowthouse, Bretherhouse, Pikale, Cowbecke and Spalding.
Here also it receiueth the Baston dreane, Longtoft dreane, Déeping
dreane, and thence goeth by Wickham into the sea, taking withall
on the right hand sundrie other dreanes. And thus farre he.

Next of all, when we are past these, we come to another fall of
water into the Wash, which descendeth directlie from Whaplade dreane
to Whaplade towne in Holland: but bicause it is a water of small
importance, I passe from thence, as hasting to the Nene, of both
the more noble riuer: and about the middest thereof in place is a
certeine swallow, so déepe and so cold in the middest of summer,
that no man dare diue to the bottome thereof for coldnesse, and
yet for all that in winter neuer found to haue béene touched with
[Sidenote: Auon.]
frost, much lesse to be couered with ise. The next therefore to be
[Sidenote: Nene.]
described is the Auon, otherwise called Nene, which the said author
describeth after this maner. The Nene beginneth foure miles aboue
Northampton in Nene méere, where it riseth out of two heads, which
ioine about Northampton. Of this riuer the citie and countrie
beareth the name, although we now pronounce Hampton for Auondune,
which errour is committed also in south Auondune, as we may easilie
see. In another place Leland describeth the said riuer after this
maner. The Auon riseth in Nene méere field, and going by Oundale
and Peterborow, it diuideth it selfe into thrée armes, whereof one
goeth to Horneie, another to Wisbech, the third to Ramseie: and
afterward being vnited againe, they fall into the sea not verie
farre from Lin. Finallie, the descent of these waters leaue here
a great sort of Ilands, wherof Elie, Crowland, and Mersland, are
the chiefe. Hitherto Leland.

Howbeit, because neither of these descriptions touch the course of
this riuer at the full, I will set downe the third, which shall
supplie whatsoeuer the other doo want. The Auon therefore arising
in Nenemere field, is increased with manie rilles, before it come
at Northampton, & one aboue Kings thorpe, from whence it goeth to
Dallington, and so to Northhampton, where it receiueth the Wedon.
[Sidenote: Vedunus.]
And here I will staie, till I haue described this riuer. The Wedon
therefore riseth at Faulesse in master Knightlies pooles, and in
Badbie plashes also are certeine springs that resort vnto this
streame. Faulesse pooles are a mile from Chareton, where the head
of Chare riuer is, that runneth to Banberie. There is but an hill
called Alberie hill betwéene the heads of these two riuers.

From the said hill therefore the Wedon directeth his course to
[Sidenote: Florus.]
Badbie, Newenham, Euerton, Wedon, betwixt which and Floretowne, it
receiueth the Florus (a pretie water rising of foure heads, whereof
the one is at Dauentrie, another at Watford, the third at long
Bucke, the fourth aboue Whilton) and then passeth on to Heiford,
[Sidenote: Bugius.]
Kislingberie, Vpton, and so to Northhampton, where it falleth into
the Auon, receiuing finallie by the waie the Bugbrooke water at
Heiford, Patshall water néere Kislingberie, and finallie Preston
water beneath Vpton, which running from Preston by Wootton, méeteth
at the last with Milton rill, and so fall into Auon. Now to resume
the tractation of our Auon. From Northhampton therefore it runneth
by Houghton, great Billing, Whitstone, Dodington, and Willingborow,
where we must staie a while: for betweene Willingborow and Higham
[Sidenote: Kilis.]
ferries, it receiueth a pretie water comming from about Kilmarsh,
which going by Ardingworth, Daisborow, Rusheton, Newton, Gaddington,
Boughton, Warketon, Kettering, Berton, and Burton, méeteth there
[Sidenote: Rother.]
with Rothwell water, which runneth west of Kettering to Hisham,
the greater Haridon, and then into the Auon.

Being therfore past Burton, our maine streame goeth to Higham
Ferries, Artleborow, Ringsted, Woodford, and (méeting thereby with
[Sidenote: Ocleie.]
Cranford rill) to Thraxton, north whereof it ioineth also with the
Ocleie water, that commeth from Sudborow and Lowicke, to old Vmkles,
Waden ho, Pilketon, Toke (where it taketh in the Liueden becke)
and so to Oundell, Cotterstocke, Tansoner, and betweene Tothering
[Sidenote: Corbie.]
and Warmington receiueth the Corbie water, which rising at Corbie,
goeth by Weldon, Denethap, Bulwich, Bletherwijc, Fineshed, Axthorpe,
Newton, Tothering, and so into the Auon. After this, the said Auon
goeth to Elton, Massington, Yerwell, Sutton, Castor, Allerton, and
so to Peterborow, where it diuideth it selfe into sundrie armes,
and those into seuerall branches and draines, among the fennes and
medowes, not possible almost to be numbred, before it méet with
the sea on the one side of the countrie, and fall into the Ouze on
the other.

[Sidenote: Isis 3.]
The Ouze, which Leland calleth the third Isis, falleth into the
sea betweene Mersland & Downeham. The chiefe head of this riuer
ariseth néere to Stanes, from whence it commeth to Brackleie
(sometime a noble towne in Northampton shire, but now scarselie a
good village) and there taking in on the left hand one water comming
[Sidenote: Sisa.]
from the parke betwéene Sisam and Astwell (which runneth by Whitfield
[Sidenote: Imelus.]
and Tinweston) and another on the right from Imleie, it goeth on
by Westbirie, Fulwell, water Stretford, Buckingham, and Berton,
beneath which towne the Erin falleth into it, whereof I find this
[Sidenote: Erin.]
short description to be inserted here. The Erin riseth not farre
from Hardwijc in Northamptonshire, from hence it goeth by Heth,
Erinford, Godderington, Twiford, Steeple Cladon, & yer it come at
[Sidenote: Garan.]
Padbirie, méeteth with the Garan brooke descending from Garanburge,
and so they go togither by Padbirie, till they fall into the Ouze,
which carieth them after the confluence to Thorneton bridge (where
they crosse another fall of water comming from Whitlewood forrest
by Luffeld, Lecamsted and Foscot) and so to Beachampton, Culuerton,
Stonie Stratford, and Woluerton.

[Sidenote: Verus.]
Here the Ouze méeteth with a water (called, as Leland coniectureth,
the Vere or Were) on the left hand, as you go downewards, that
commeth betwéene Wedon and Wexenham in Northamptonshire, and goeth
by Towcester, and Alderton, and not farre from Woluerton and
Hauersham into the foresaid Ouze, which goeth also from hence to
[Sidenote: Cle aliàs Claius.]
Newportpaganell, where in like sort I must staie a while till I
haue described another water, named the Clée, by whose issue the
said streame is not a little increased. This riuer riseth in the
verie confines betwéene Buckingham and Bedfordshires, not farre
from Whippesnade, and going on toward the northwest, by Eaton and
Laiton, it commeth to Linchlade, where it entreth whollie into
Buckinghamshire, and so goeth on by Hammond, Brickle, Fennie
[Sidenote: Saw.]
Stratford, Simpson, Walton and Middleton, beneath which it receiueth
the Saw from aboue Halcot, and so goeth on till it meet with the
Ouze néere vnto Newport, as I haue said. Being vnited therefore,
we set forward from the said towne, and follow this noble riuer,
to Lathbirie, Thuringham, Filgrane, Lawndon, Newington, Bradfield
on the one side, and Turueie on the other, till it come at length
to Bedford after manie windlesses, and then méeteth with another
streame, which is increased with so manie waters, that I was inforced
to make an imagined staie here also, and view their seuerall courses,
supposing my selfe to looke downe from the highest steeple in
Bedford, whence (as best meane to view anie countrie wheresoeuer)
I note the same as followeth.

Certes on the east side, where I began this speculation, I saw one
that came from Potton, and met withall néere Becliswade: another
that grew of two waters, wherof one descended from Baldocke, the
other from Hitchin, which ioined beneth Arleseie, and thence went
[Sidenote: These rise not far from Michelborow & one of them in Higham
parke.]
to Langford and Edworth. The third which I beheld had in like sort
two heads, wherof one is not farre from Wood end, the other from
Wooburne (or Howburne), and ioining about Flitwijc, they go to
Flitton (where they receiue Antill brooke) and so by Chiphill, and
Chicksand, they come to Shafford, from whence taking the aforsaid
Langford water with them, they go foorth by Becliswade, Sandie,
Blumham, and neere vnto Themisford are vnited with the Ouze. And
now to our purpose againe.

[Sidenote: Verus or the Were.]
After this the Ouze goeth by Berkeford, to Winteringham (méeting
there with the Wareslie becke) and so runneth to S. Neotes (or
[Sidenote: Stoueus.]
saint Nedes, in old time Goluesburg, as Capgraue saith In vita
Neoti) to Paxston, Offordes, and so to Godmanchester, in old time
called Gumicester, which (as it should séeme) hath béene a towne
of farre greater countenance than at this present it is; for out
of the ruines thereof much Romane coine is found, and sometimes
with the image of C. Antius which hath long haire, as the Romans
had before they receiued barbars into their citie, and therevnto
the bones of diuerse men of farre greater stature than is credible
to be spoken of in these daies. But what stand I vpon these things?
From hence therfore our water goeth on to Huntingdon, Wilton, saint
[Sidenote: Stoueus.]
Iues, Holiwell, and Erith, receiueth in the meane time the Stow
[Sidenote: Helenus.]
[Sidenote: Elmerus.]
(néere vnto little Paxton) and likewise the Ellen, and the Emmer,
in one chanell a little by west of Huntingdon.

Finallie, the maine streame spreading abroad into the Fennes, I
cannot tell into how manie branches, neither how manie Ilets are
inforced by the same; although of Iles, Marshland, Ancarig or
Ancarie be the chiefe, and of which this later is called Crowland
(as Crowland also hight thornie A cruda terra, or store of bushes
saith Hugo le Blanc) sometime growing in the same, and Ancarijc
because sundrie Ancres haue liued & borne great swaie therein.
But howsoeuer this case standeth, this is certeine, that after it
hath thus delited it selfe with ranging a while about the pleasant
bottoms & lower grounds, it méeteth with the Granta, from whence
it goeth with a swift course vnto Downeham. Betwéene it also and
the Auon, are sundrie large meeres or plashes, by southwest of
[Sidenote: Riuelus.]
Peterborow full of powts and carpes, whereof Whittleseie méere,
and Ramseie méere (whereinto the Riuall falleth), that commeth from
aboue Broughton, Wiston, and great Riuelleie) are said to be
[Sidenote: Granta.]
greatest. Of all the riuers that run into this streame, that called
Granta (whereof the whole countie in old time was called Grantabrycshire,
as appéereth by the register of Henrie prior of Canturburie) is
the most noble and excellent, which I will describe euen in this
place, notwithstanding that I had earst appointed it vnto my second
booke. But for somuch as a description of Ouze and Granta were
deliuered me togither, I will for his sake that gaue them me, not
separate them now in sunder.

The verie furthest head and originall of this riuer is in Henham,
a large parke belonging to the earle of Sussex, wherein (as the
townesmen saie) are foure springs that run foure sundrie waies into
the maine sea. Leland sought not the course of this water aboue
Newport pond, and therefore in his commentaries vpon the song of
the swan, he writeth thereof after this maner insuing. Although
doctor Iohn Caius the learned physician, and some other are of the
opinion, that this riuer comming from Newport, is properlie to be
called the Rhée: but I may not so easilie dissent from Leland,
whose iudgement in my mind is by a great deale the more likelie.
Harken therefore what he saith.

The head of Grantha or Granta, is in the pond at Newport, a towne
of the east Saxons, which going in a bottome beside the same,
receiueth a pretie rill, which in the middest thereof dooth driue
a mill, and descendeth from Wickin Bonhant, that standeth not farre
from thence. Being past Newport, it goeth alongst in the lower
ground, vntill it come to Broke Walden, west of Chipping Walden
(now Saffron Walden) hard by the lord Awdleis place, where the
right honorable Thomas Howard with his houshold doo soiourne, and
sometime stood an abbeie of Benedictine moonks, before their generall
suppression. From Awdleie end it goeth to Littleburie, the lesse
[Sidenote: Babren.]
and greater Chesterfords, Yealdune, Hincstone, Scoston or Sawson,
and néere vnto Shaleford receiueth the Babren that commeth by
Linton, Abbington, Babrenham, and Stapleford: and so going forward
it commeth at the last to Trompington, which is a mile from Cambridge.
[Sidenote: Rhée.]
But yer it come altogither to Trompington, it méeteth with the
Barrington water, as Leland calleth it, but some other the Rhee (a
common name to all waters in the Saxon speech) whereof I find this
description, to be touched by the waie. The Rhée riseth short of
Ashwell in Hertfordshire, and passing under the bridge betweene
Gilden Mordon and Downton, and leauing Tadlow on the west side (as
I remember) it goeth toward Crawden, Malton, Barrington, Haselingfield,
and so into Granta, taking sundrie rills with him from south and
southwest, as Wendie water southwest of Crawden, Whaddon brooke
southwest of Orwell, Mildred becke southwest of Malton, and finallie
the Orme which commeth out of Armington or Ormendum well, and goeth
by Fulmere and Foxton, and falleth into the same betweene Barrington
and Harleston, or Harston; as they call it.

Now to procéed with our Granta. From Trompington on the one side,
and Grantcester, on the other, it hasteth to Cambridge ward, taking
the Burne with it by the waie, which descendeth from a castell of
the same denomination, wherein the Picotes and Peuerels sometime
did inhabit. Thence it goeth by sundrie colleges in Cambridge, as
the queenes college, the kings college, Clare hall, Trinitie college,
S. Iohns, &c: vnto the high bridge of Cambridge, and betwéene the
towne and the castell to Chesterton, and receiuing by and by the
[Sidenote: Sturus.]
Stoure, or Sture (at whose bridge the most famous mart in England
is yearlie holden and kept) from Chesterton it goeth to Ditton,
Milton, and yer long méeting with two rilles (from Bottesham and
Wilberham, in one bottome) it runneth to Horningseie, & Water Bech:
[Sidenote: Bulbecke.]
and finallie here ioining with the Bulbecke water, it goeth by
Dennie, and so forth into the Ouze, fiftéene miles from Cambridge,
as Leland hath set downe. And thus much of the third Isis or Ouze,
out of the aforesaid author: wherevnto I haue not onelie added
somewhat of mine owne experience, but also of other mens notes,
whose diligent obseruation of the course of this riuer hath not a
little helped me in the description of the same. Now it resteth
that we come neerer to the coast of Northfolke, and set foorth such
waters as we passe by vpon the same, wherein I will deale so
preciselie as I may: and so farre will I trauell therein, as I hope
shall content euen the curious reader: or if anie fault be made,
it shall not be so great, but that after some trauell in the finding,
it shall with ease be corrected.

The first riuer that therefore we come vnto, after we be past the
[Sidenote: Burne.]
confluence of Granta, and the Ouze, and within the iurisdiction of
Northfolke, is called the Burne. This streame riseth not verie
farre from Burne Bradfield, aboue the greater Wheltham, and from
thence it goeth on to Nawnton, Burie, Farneham Martin, Farneham
Alhallowes, Farneham Genouefa, Hengraue, Flemton, Lackeford,
Icklingham, and to Milden hall: a little beneath which, it meeteth
[Sidenote: Dale.]
with the Dale water, that springeth not farre from Catilege, and
going by Asheleie, Moulton (a benefice as the report goeth not
verie well prouided for) to Kenford, Kenet, Bradingham, Frekenham,
it falleth at the last not farre from Iselham into the Burne, from
whence they go togither as one into the Ouze. With the Burne also
there ioineth a water comming from about Lidgate, a little beneath
Iselham, and not verie far from Mildenhall.

[Sidenote: Dunus.]
The Dune head, and rising of Wauenheie, are not much in sunder:
for as it is supposed, they are both not farre distant from the
bridge betwéene Lopham and Ford, wherby the one runneth east and
the other west, as I haue béene informed. The Dune goeth first of
all by Feltham, then to Hopton, & to Kinets hall, where it meeteth
with a water comming out of a lake short of Banham (going, by
Quiddenham, Herling, Gasthorpe) and so on, both in one chanell,
they run to Ewston. Here they méet in like sort, with another
descending from two heads, wherof the one is néere vnto Pakenham,
the other to Tauestocke, as I heare. Certes these heads ioine
aboue Ilesworth, not farre from Stow Langtoft, from whence they go
to Yxworth, Thorpe, Berdwell, Hunnington, Fakenham, and so into
the Dune at Ewston; as I said. From hence also they hasten to
Downeham, which of this riuer dooth séeme to borow his name. South
Rée rill I passe ouer as not worthie the description, because it
is so small.

[Sidenote: Bradunus fortè.]
Next vnto this riuer on the south side is the Braden, or Bradunus,
which riseth at Bradenham, and goeth by Necton, north Peckenham,
south Peckenham, Kirsingham, Bedneie, Langford, Igbor, Munford,
[Sidenote: Linus.]
North Old, Stockebridge, Ferdham, Helgie, and so into the Ouze.
The néerest vnto this is another which riseth about Lukeham, and
from thence commeth to Lexham, Massingham, Newton, the castell
Acre, Acres, Nerboe, Pentneie, Wrongeie, Rounghton (which at one
time might haue béene my liuing if I would haue giuen sir Thomas
Rugband money inough, but now it belongeth to Gundeuill and Caius
college in Cambridge) Westchurch, and so to Linne. As so dooth also
[Sidenote: Congunus.]
another by north of this, which commeth from the east hilles by
Congenham, Grimston, Bawseie, Gaiwood, whereof let this suffice.
And now giue eare to the rest sith I am past the Ouze. Being past
[Sidenote: Rising.]
the mouth or fall of the Ouze, we méet next of all with the Rising
[Sidenote: Ingell.]
chase water, which Ptolomie (as some thinke) doth call Metaris,
and descendeth from two heads, and also the Ingell that commeth
from about Snetsham. From hence we go by the point of saint Edmund,
and so hold on our course till we come vnto the Burne, which falleth
into the sea by south from Waterden, and going betwéene the Crakes
to Burnham Thorpe, and Burnham Norton, it striketh at the last into
the sea; east of Burnham Norton a mile at the least, except my
[Sidenote: Glouius.]
coniecture doo faile me. The Glow or Glowie riseth not far from
Baconsthorpe, in the hundred of Tunsted; & going by and by into
Holt hundred, it passeth by Hunworth, Thornage, Glawnsford, Blackneie,
Clare, and so into the sea, receiuing there at hand also a rill by
east, which descendeth from the hilles lieng betwéene Killing towne
and Waiburne.

[Sidenote: Wantsume.]
The Wantsume riseth in Northfolke at Galesend in Holt hundred, from
whence it goeth to Watersend, Townton, Skelthorpe, Farneham,
Pensthorpe, Rieburg, Ellingham, and Billingsford. And here it
receiueth two waters in one bottome, of which the first goeth by
Stanfield and Beteleie, the other by Wandling and Gressonhall, and
so run on ech his owne waie, till they méet at Houndlington,
southwest of Billingsford with the Wantsume. From hence they go
all togither to Below, Ieng, Weston, and Moreton; but yer it come
[Sidenote: Yocus.]
to Moreton, it méeteth with the Yowke, which (issuing about Yexham)
goeth by Matteshall and Barrow. After this the said Wantsume goeth
on by Ringland, and so to Norwich the pontificall sée of the bishop,
to whome that iurisdiction apperteineth, which seemeth by this
memoriall yet remaining in the corrupted name of the water, to be
called in old time Venta, or (as Leland addeth) Venta Icenorum.
But to procéed. Beneath Norwich also it receiueth two waters in
one chanell, which I will seuerallie describe, according to their
courses, noting their confluence to be at Bixleie, within two miles
of Norwich, except my annotation deceiue me. The first of these
[Sidenote: Hierus.]
[Sidenote: Gerus.]
hath two heads wherof one mounteth vp southwest of Whinborow, goeth
by Gerneston, and is the verie Hiere or Yare that drowneth the name
of Wantsume, so soone as he meeteth withall. The other head riseth
at Wood in Mitford hundred, and after confluence with the Hiere at
Caston, going by Brandon, Bixton, Berford, Erleham, Cringlefield
(not farre from Bixleie as I said) doth méet with his companion,
which is the second to be described as followeth. It hath two heads
also that méet northwest of Therstane; and hereof the one commeth
from Findon hall, by Wrenningham from about Wotton, by Hemnall,
Fretton, Stretton, and Tasborow, till they ioine at Therston, as
I gaue notice aforehand. From Therston therefore they go togither
in one to Newton, Shotesham, Dunston, Castor, Arminghale, Bixleie,
Lakenham, and Trowse, and then fall into the Wantsume beneath
Norwich, which hereafter is named Hiere. The Hiere, Yare, or Gare
therefore proceeding in his voiage, as it were to salute his grandame
the Ocean, goeth from thence by Paswijc, Surlingham, Claxton, and
Yardleie; and here it meeteth againe with another riueret descending
from about Shotesham to Therstane, Shedgraue, Hockingham, and so
into Gare or Yare, whereof Yardleie the towne receiueth denomination.
[Sidenote: Wauen.]
After this it goeth to Frethorpe, and aboue Burgh castell meeteth
with the Waueneie, and so into the sea.

[Sidenote: Bure.]
Into this riuer also falleth the Bure, which rising at a towne of
the same name, passeth by Milton, Buresdune, Corpesteie, Marington,
Blekeling, Bure, Alesham, Brampton, Buxton, Horsted, Werxham bridge,
[Sidenote: Thurinus.]
Horning, Raneworth; and beneath Bastewijc receiueth the Thurine
which riseth aboue Rolesbie; then to Obie, Clipsbie (there also
receiuing another from Filbie) Rimham, Castor, and by Yarmouth into
the Ocean. The Waueneie afore mentioned, riseth on the south side
of Brisingham, and is a limit betweene Northfolke and Suffolke.
Going therefore by Dis, Starton, not farre from Octe, it méeteth
with the Eie, which riseth néere Ockold, or betwéene it and
[Sidenote: Wauen.]
Braisworth, & goeth on by Brome, Octe, and so into the Waueneie.
From thence our Waueneie runneth by Silam, Brodish, Nedam, Harleston,
Rednam, Alborow, Flixton, Bungeie, Sheepemedow, Barsham, Beckles,
Albie, & at Whiteacre (as I heare) parteth in twaine, or receiuing
[Sidenote: Einus.]
Milford water (which is most likelie) it goeth along by Somerleie,
[Sidenote: Fritha.]
Hormingfléet, S. Olaues, (there receiuing the Frithstane or Fristan
brooke, out of low or litle England) Fristan & Burgh castell, where
it méeteth with the Hiere, & from thencefoorth accompanieth it (as
I said) vnto the sea. Willingham water commeth by Hensted, Einsted,
or Enistate, and falleth into the sea by south of Kesland.

[Sidenote: Cokelus.]
The Cokell riseth south southwest of Cokeleie towne in Blithe
hundred, and neere vnto Hastelworth it meeteth with the rill that
commeth from Wisset, and so going on togither by Wenhaston, and
Bliborow, it falleth into the sea at an hauen betwéene Roidon and
Walderswicke. A little rill runneth also thereinto from Eston by
Sowold, and another from Dunwich, by Walderswijke: and hereby it
wanteth little that Eston Nesse is not cut off and made a pretie
Iland.

[Sidenote: Ford.]
The Ford riseth at Poxford, and going by Forderleie, and Theberton,
[Sidenote: Orus.]
it falleth at last into Mismere créeke. Into the Oreford hauen
runneth one water comming from Aldborow ward, by a narrow passage
[Sidenote: Fromus.]
from the north into the south. By west wherof (when we are past a
little Ile) it receiueth the second, descending from betwéene
Talingston and Framingham in Plomes hundred; which comming at last
[Sidenote: Glema.]
to Marleford, meeteth with a rill southwest of Farnham called the
Gleme (that commeth by Rendlesham, the Gleinhams) and so passing
foorth, it taketh another at Snapesbridge, comming from Carleton
[Sidenote: Iken, or Ike.]
by Saxmundham, Sternefield & Snape. Then going to Iken (where it
méeteth with the third rill at the west side) it fetcheth a compasse
by Sudburne east of Orford, and so into the hauen. Next vnto this
by west of Orford, there runneth vp another créeke by Butleie,
whereinto the waters comming from Cellesford, and from the Ike,
doo run both in one bottome. And thus much of Orford hauen.

[Sidenote: Deua.]
The Deue riseth in Debenham, in the hundred of Hertesméere, and
from thence goeth to Mickford, Winston, Cretingham, Lethringham,
Wickham, hitherto still creeping toward the south: but then going
in maner full south, it runneth neere vnto Ash, Rendlesham, Vfford,
Melton, and Woodbridge, beneath which it receiueth on the west
side, a water comming of two heads, wherof one is by north from
Oteleie, and the other by south from Henleie, which ioining west
of Mertelsham, go vnto the said towne and so into the Deue, east
[Sidenote: Clarus fons.]
of Mertelsham abouesaid. From thence the Deue goeth by Waldringfield
and Henleie, and méeting soone after with Brightwell brooke, it
hasteth into the maine sea, leauing Bawdseie on the east, where
the fall therof is called Bawdseie hauen.

[Sidenote: Vrus.]
Vre riseth not farre from Bacton, in Hertesmeere hundred, and thense
descendeth into Stow hundred by Gipping Newton, Dagworth, Stow
(beneath which it méeteth with a water comming from Rattlesden, by
one house) and so going on to Nedeham (through Bosméere and Claidon
hundreds) to Blakenham, Bramford, Ypswich, receiuing beneath Stoke,
which lieth ouer against Ypswich, the Chatsham water, that goeth
by Belsted, and so into the Vre, at the mouth whereof is a maruellous
deepe and large pit, whereof some marriners saie that they could
neuer find the bottome, and therefore calling it a well, and ioining
the name of the riuer withall, it commeth to passe that the hauen
there is called Vrewell, for which in these daies we doo pronounce
it Orwell. Into this hauen also the Sture or Stoure hath readie
passage, which remaineth in this treatise next of all to be described.

[Sidenote: Sturus.]
The Sture or Stoure parteth Essex from Suffolke, as Houeden saith,
and experience confirmeth. It ariseth in Suffolke, out of a lake
neere vnto a towne called Stourméere. For although there come two
rilles vnto the same, whereof the one descendeth from Thirlo, the
Wratings and Ketton, the other from Horshed parke, by Hauerill,
&c: yet in summer time they are often drie, so that they cannot be
said to be perpetuall heads vnto the aforesaid riuer. The Stoure
therefore (being, as I take it, called by Ptolomie, Edomania, for
thereon toward the mouth standeth a prettie towne named Manitrée,
which carieth some shadow of that ancient name thereof vnto this
daie, if my coniecture be any thing) ariseth at Stouremeere, which
is a poole conteining twentie acres of ground at the least, the
one side whereof is full of alders, the other of réeds, wherin the
great store of fish there bred, is not a little succoured. From
this méere also it goeth to Bathorne bridge, to Stocke clare,
Cawndish, Pentlo, Paules Beauchampe, Milford, Foxerth, Buresleie,
Sudburie, Bures, Boxsted, Stoke, Nailand, Lanham, Dedham, Stratford,
east Barfold, Brampton, Manitree, Catwade bridge, and so into the
sea, where in the verie fall also it ioineth with Orwell hauen, so
néere that of manie they are reputed as one, and parted but by a
shingle that dooth run along betwéene them: neither dooth it passe
cléere in this voiage, but as it were often occupied by the waie,
in receiuing sundrie brookes and rilles not héere to be omitted.

For on Essex side it hath one from Hemsted, which goeth by Bumsted,
and Birdbrooke: another rising short of Foxerth, that runneth by
water Beauchampe, Brundon, and falleth into the same at Badlington,
west of Sudburie: and the third that glideth by Horkesleie, and
méeteth withall west of Boxsted. On the north, or vpon Suffolke
side, it receiueth one descending from Catiledge, by Bradleie,
Thurlow, Wratting, Kiddington, and at Hauerell falleth into this
Sture. The second descendeth northward from Posling field, and
ioineth therewith east of Clare. It was in old time called Cicux
or Ceuxis, and it méeteth with the Stoure in such wise that they
séeme to make a right angle, in the point almost wherof standeth
a ruinous castell. Howbeit as sithence which time this water (in
some mens iudgement) hath béene named Clarus (not so much for the
greatnesse as clearnesse of the streame) even so the Stoure it
selfe was also called Ens as they say, and after their confluence
the whole Clarens, which giueth denomination to a duchie of this
Iland of no small fame and honour. But these are but méere fables,
sith the word Clare is deriued from the towne, wherein was an house
of religion erected to one Clara, and Clarens brought from the
same, because of an honour the prince had in those parties: which
may suffice to know from whence the name proceedeth. The third
ariseth of two heads, whereof one commeth from Wickham brooke, the
other from Chedbar in Risbie hundred, and ioining about Stanfield,
it goeth by Hawton, Somerton, Boxsted, Stansted, and north of
Foxerth falleth into Stoure. The fourth issueth from betwéene the
Waldingfields, and goeth by Edwardstone, Boxsted, Alington, Polsted,
Stoke, and so at south Boxsted falleth into the same. The fift
riseth northwest of Cockefield, and goeth to Cockefield, Laneham,
[Sidenote: Kettle baston.]
Brimsleie, Midling, and receiuing Kettle Baston water southwest of
Chelsworth (and likewise the Breton that commeth from Bretenham,
by Hitcheham, and Bisseton stréet on the south east of the same
towne) it goeth in by Nedging, Aldham, Hadleie, Lainham, Shellie,
Higham, and so into the Stoure. The sixt is a little rill descending
southwest from Chappell. The seuenth riseth betweene Chappell and
Bentleie, and going betwéene Tatingston, and Whetsted, Holbrooke,
and Sutton, it falleth at length into Stoure, and from thence is
neuer heard of.

[Sidenote: Ocleie.]
As for Ocleie Drill, that riseth betweene Ocleie, and Wikes parkes,
and so goeth into the Stoure, on Essex side, west of Harwich, and
east of Rée Ile; I passe it ouer, because it is of it selfe but a
rill, and not of anie greatnesse, till it come to the mill aboue
Ramseie bridge, where I was once almost drowned (by reason of the
ruinous bridge which leadeth ouer the streame being there verie
[Sidenote: Mosa.]
great) as an arme of the sea that continuallie ebbeth & floweth.
Next vnto this, we came to another that runneth south of Beaumont
by Mosse, and falleth into the sea about the middest of the Baie,
betwixt Harwich and the Naze. Betwixt the Naze also and the mouth
[Sidenote: Claco.]
of Colne, is another rill, which riseth at little Bentleie, and
thence goeth to Tendring thorpe, through Clacton parke by great
Holland, and east of little Holland, into the déepe sea.

[Sidenote: Colunus.]
The Colne hath three heads, whereof one is at Ouington that goeth
by Tilberie, and east of Yeldam falleth into the chiefe head which
riseth about Redgewell in Essex, from whence also it goeth to Yeldam
and Hedingham, otherwise called Yngham: also Hedningham or
[Sidenote *: Sic.]
Heuedingham,[*] or Heuedingham of the superioritie which accrued
therevnto, because the chiefe lords of the same from time to time
kept residence in the towne. For Heued or Hed signifieth The chiefe,
in the old English language, which in the name of this and manie
other townes and villages yet standing in England cannot easilie
be forgotten. The third falleth in south of Yeldam, and being once
met all in one chanell, and called the Colne, it goeth (as I said)
to Hedningham, Hawsted, Erles Colne, Wakes Colne, Fordon, Bardfold,
Colchester, in old time Camalodunum, and so into the sea at
Brickleseie. Some thinke that Colchester and Camalodunum are sundrie
cities and situat in diuerse places, whereby Maldon (or Ithancester
out of whose ruines the said towne of Maldon was erected) should
rather be Camalodunum than Colchester, but hereof I cannot iudge.
Indeed if (as Leland saith) Maldon should be written Malodunum, it
were a likelihood that there assertions should be probable. Some
reason also may be gathered for the same out of Dion, and such as
make the Thames mouth to take his beginning at Colchester water.
But I dare not presume to conclude any thing hereof, least I should
séeme rashlie to take hold of euerie coniecture. This I relie vpon
rather as a more certeintie, that in the first edition of this
treatise I was persuaded, that the sea entring by the Colne made
thrée seuerall passages from thence into the land: but now I
vnderstand that these are seuerall entrances and streames, of which
the Colne is one, another is the Salcote water, which commeth in
beneath the Stroud (a causeie that leadeth vnto Merseie Ile, ouer
which the sea méeteth with a contrarie course) and the third the
faire arme that floweth vnto Maldon, and all these three haue their
falles either ouer against or néere vnto the aforesaid Ile, which
at a low water is not halfe a mile from the shore. Into the Colne
or Colunus also (whereof Leland thinketh Colchester to take his
name, and not A colonia Romanorum, although I may not consent to
him herein) doo run manie salt creekes beneath Fingering ho, of
whose names sith I doo not know, nor whether they be serued with
anie backewaters or not, I giue ouer to intreat anie further &
likewise of their positions. Into that of Maldon runneth manie
faire waters, whereof I will saie so much as I know to be true in
maner by experience.

[Sidenote: Gwin or Pant.]
There is a pretie water that beginneth néere vnto Gwinbach or
Winbeche church in Essex, a towne of old, and yet belonging to the
Fitzwaters, taking name of Gwin, which is beautifull or faire, &
Bache that signifieth a wood: and not without cause, sith not onelie
the hilles on ech side of the said rillet, but all the whole paroch
hath sometime abounded in woods; but now in manner they are vtterlie
decaied, as the like commoditie is euerie where, not onelie thorough
excessiue building for pleasure more than profit, which is contrarie
to the ancient end of building; but also for more increase of
pasture & commoditie to the lords of the soile, through their sales
of that emolument, whereby the poore tenants are inforced to buie
their fewell, and yet haue their rents in triple maner inhanced.)
This said brooke runneth directlie from thence vnto Radwinter, now
a parcell of your lordships possessions in those parts, descended
from the Chamberleins, who were sometime chéefe owners of the same.
By the waie also it is increased with sundrie pretie springs, of
which Pantwell is the chéefe (whereof some thinke the whole brooke
to be named Pant) and which (to saie the truth) hath manie a leasing
fathered on the same. Certes by the report of common fame it hath
béene a pretie water, and of such quantitie, that botes haue come
in time past from Bilie abbeie beside Maldon vnto the moores in
Radwinter for corne. I haue heard also that an anchor was found
there neere to a red willow, when the water-courses by act of
parlement were surueied and reformed throughout England, which
maketh not a little with the aforesaid relation. But this is
strangest of all, that a lord sometime of Winbech (surnamed the
great eater, because he would breake his fast with a whole calfe,
and find no bones therein as the fable goeth) falling at contention
with the lord Iohn of Radwinter, could worke him none other iniurie,
but by stopping vp the head of Pantwell, to put by the vse of a
mill which stood by the church of Radwinter, and was serued by that
brooke abundantlie. Certes I know the place where the mill stood,
and some posts thereof doo yet remaine. But sée the malice of
mankind, whereby one becommeth a woolfe vnto the other in their
mischeeuous moodes. For when the lord saw his mill to be so spoiled,
he in reuenge of his losse, brake the necke of his aduersarie, when
he was going to horsebacke, as the constant report affirmeth. For
the lord of Radwinter holding a parcell of his manour of Radwinter
hall of the Fitzwaters, his sonne was to hold his stirrop at certeine
times when he should demand the same. Shewing himselfe therefore
prest on a time to doo his said seruice, as the Fitzwater was readie
to lift his leg ouer the saddle, he by putting backe his foot, gaue
him such a thrust that he fell backward, and brake his necke:
wherevpon insued great trouble, till the matter was taken vp by
publike authoritie; and that seruile office conuerted into a pound
of pepper, which is trulie paid to this daie. But to leaue these
impertinent discourses, and returne againe to the springs whereby
our Pant or Gwin is increased. There is likewise another in a
pasture belonging to the Grange, now in possession of William Bird
esquier, who holdeth the same in the right of his wife, but in time
past belonging to Tilteie abbeie. The third commeth out of the yard
of one of your lordships manors there called Radwinter hall. The
fourth from Iohn Cockswets house, named the Rotherwell, which
running vnder Rothers bridge, méeteth with the Gwin or Pant on the
northwest end of Ferrants meade, southeast of Radwinter church,
whereof I haue the charge by your honours fauourable preferment.

I might take occasion to speake of another rill which falleth into
the Rother from Bendish hall: but bicause it is for the most part
drie in summer I passe it ouer. Yet I will not omit to speake also
of the manor which was the chiefe lordship sometime of a parish or
hamlet called Bendishes, now worne out of knowledge, and vnited
partlie to Radwinter, and partlie to Ashdon. It belonged first to
the Bendishes gentlemen of a verie ancient house yet extant, of
which one laieng the said manour to morgage to the moonks of
Feuersham, at such time as K. Edward the third went to the siege
of Calis, thereby to furnish himselfe the better toward the seruice
of his prince, it came to passe that he staied longer beyond the
sea than he supposed. Wherevpon he came before his daie to confer
with his creditors, who commending his care to come out of debt,
willed him in friendlie maner not to suspect anie hard dealing on
their behalfes, considering his businesse in seruice of the king
was of it selfe cause sufficient, to excuse his delaie of paiment
vpon the daie assigned. Herevpon he went ouer againe vnto the siege
of Calis. But when the daie came, the moonks for all this made
seisure of the manour, and held it continuallie without anie further
recompense, maugre all the friendship that the aforesaid Bendish
could make. The said gentleman also tooke this cousening part in
such choler, that he wrote a note yet to be séene among his euidences,
whereby he admonisheth his posteritie to beware how they trust
either knaue moonke or knaue frier, as one of the name and descended
from him by lineall descent hath more than once informed me. Now
to resume our springs that méet and ioine with our Pant.

[Sidenote: Froshwell.]
The next is named Froshwell. And of this spring dooth the whole
hundred beare the name, & after this confluence the riuer it selfe
whervnto it falleth (from by north) so farre as I remember. Certes,
all these, sauing the first and second, are within your lordships
towne aforesaid. The streame therefore running from hence (& now,
as I said, called Froshwell, of Frosh, which signifieth a frog)
hasteth immediatlie vnto old Sandford, then through new Sandford
parke, and afterward with full streame (receiuing by the waie, the
Finch brooke that commeth thorough Finchingfield) to Shalford,
Bocking, Stifted, Paswijc, and so to Blackewater, where the name
of Froshwell ceaseth, the water being from hencefoorth (as I heare)
commonlie called Blackwater, vntill it come to Maldon, where it
falleth into the salt arme of the sea that beateth vpon the towne;
and which of some (except I be deceiued) is called also Pant: and
so much the rather I make this coniecture, for that Ithancester
stood somewhere vpon the banks thereof, & in the hundred of Danseie,
whose ruines (as they saie) also are swalowed vp by the said streame,
which can not be verified in our riuer that runneth from Pantwell,
which at the mouth and fall into the great current, excéedeth not
(to my coniecture) aboue one hundred foot. But to returne to our
Pant, alias the Gwin. From Blackwater it goeth to Coxall, Easterford,
[Sidenote: Barus.]
Braxsted and Wickham, where it méeteth with the Barus, and so going
togither as one, they descend to Heiebridge, and finallie into the
salt water aboue Maldon, and at hand as is aforesaid. As for the
Barus, it riseth in a statelie parke of Essex called Bardfield,
belonging to sir Thomas Wroth whilest he liued, who hath it to him
and his heires males for euer, from the crowne. Being risen, it
hasteth directlie to old Saling Brainetrée, crossing a rillet by
the waie comming from Raine, blacke Norleie, white Norleie,
Falkeburne, Wittham, and falleth into the Blackewater beneath
Braxsted on the south.

[Sidenote: Chelmer.]
Beside this, the said Pant or Gwin receiueth the Chelme or Chelmer,
which ariseth also in Wimbech aforesaid, where it hath two heads:
of which the one is not farre from Brodockes (where master Thomas
Wiseman esquier dwelleth) the other nigh vnto a farme called Highams
in the same paroch, and ioining yer long in one chanell, they hie
them toward Thacsted vnder Prowds bridge, méeting in the waie with
a rill comming from Boiton end, whereby it is somewhat increased.
[Sidenote: Lindis.]
Being past Thacsted, it goeth by Tilteie, and soone after receiueth
one rill which riseth on the north side of Lindsell, & falleth into
the Chelmer by northeast at Tilteie aforesaid, & another comming
from southwest, rising southeast from Lindsell at much Eiston. From
thence then holding on still with the course, it goeth to Candfield
the more, Dunmow, litle Dunmow, Falsted, Lies, both Walthams,
Springfield, and so to Chelmeresford. Here vpon the south side I
find the issue of a water that riseth fiue miles (or thereabouts)
south and by west of the said towne, from whence it goeth to
Munasing, Buttesburie (there receiuing a rill from by west, to
Ingatstone, Marget Inge, Widford bridge, Writtle bridge, and so to
[Sidenote: Roxford.]
Chelmeresford (crossing also the second water that descendeth from
Roxford southwest of Writtle by the waie) whereof let this suffice.

From hence the Chelmer goeth directlie toward Maldon by Badow,
Owting, Woodham water, Bilie, and so to Blackwater northwest of
[Sidenote: Lée.]
Maldon, receiuing neuerthelesse yer it come fullie thither, a becke
also that goeth from Lée parke, to little Lées, great Lées, Hatfield,
Peuerell, Owting, and so into Blackwater (whereof I spake before)
as Maldon streame dooth a rill from by south ouer against saint
Osithes, and also another by Bradwell. After which the said streame
growing also to be verie great, passeth by the Tolshunts, Tollesbie,
and so foorth into the maine sea neere vnto Marseie: betwéene which
fall and the place where Salute water entreth into the land, Plautus
abode the comming of Claudius sometime into Britaine, when he being
hardlie beeset, did send vnto him for aid and spéedie succour, who
also being come did not onelie rescue his legat, but in like manner
wan Colchester, and put it to the spoile, if it be Camalodunum.

[Sidenote: Burne.]
The Burne riseth somewhere about Ronwell, and thence goeth to Hull
bridge, south Fambridge, Kirkeshot ferrie, and so to Foulnesse.
And as this is the short course of that riuer, so it brancheth,
and the south arme thereof receiueth a water comming from Haukewell,
to great Stanbridge, and beneath Pakesham dooth méet by south with
the said arme, and so finish vp his course, as we doo our voiage
also about the coast of England.

Thus haue I finished the description of such riuers and streames
as fall into the Ocean, according to my purpose, although not in
so precise an order and manner of handling as I might, if information
promised had been accordinglie performed; or others would, if they
had taken the like in hand. But this will I saie of that which is
here done, that from the Solueie by west, which parteth England &
Scotland on that side; to the Twede, which separateth the said
kingdoms on the east: if you go backeward, contrarie to the course
of my description, you shall find it so exact, as beside a verie
few by-riuers, you shall not need to vse anie further aduise for
the finding and falles of the aforesaid streames. For such hath
beene my helpe of maister Sackfords cardes, and conference with
other men about these, that I dare pronounce them to be perfect
and exact. Furthermore, this I haue also to remember, that in the
courses of our streames, I regard not so much to name the verie
towne or church, as the limits of the paroch. And therefore if I
saie it goeth by such a towne, I thinke my dutie discharged, if I
hit vpon anie part or parcell of the paroch. This also hath not a
little troubled me, I meane the euill writing of the names of manie
townes and villages: of which I haue noted some one man, in the
description of a riuer, to write one towne two or thrée manner of
waies, whereby I was inforced to choose one (at aduenture most
commonlie) that séemed the likeliest to be sound in mine opinion
and iudgement.

Finallie, whereas I minded to set downe an especiall chapter of
ports and créeks, lieng on ech coast of the English part of this
Ile; and had prouided the same in such wise as I iudged most
conuenient: it came to passe, that the greater part of my labour
was taken from me by stealth, and therefore as discouraged to meddle
with that argument, I would haue giuen ouer to set downe anie thing
therefore at all: and so much the rather, for that I sée it may
prooue a spurre vnto further mischéefe, as things come to passe in
these daies. Neuerthelesse, because a little thereof is passed in
the beginning of the booke, I will set downe that parcell thereof
which remaineth, leauing the supplie of the rest either to my selfe
hereafter, (if I may come by it) or to some other that can better
performe the same.




OF SUCH PORTS AND CREEKS AS OUR SEAFARING-MEN DOO NOTE FOR THEIR
BENEFIT UPON THE COASTS OF ENGLAND.

CHAP. XVII.


It maie be that I haue in these former chapters omitted sundrie
hauens to be found vpon the shore of England, and some of them
serued with backe waters, through want of sound and sufficient
information from such as haue written vnto me of the same. In
recompense whereof I haue thought good to adde this chapter of
ports and creekes, whereby (so farre as to me is possible) I shall
make satisfaction of mine ouersights. And albeit I cannot (being
too too much abused by some that haue béereft me of my notes in
this behalfe) bring my purpose to passe for all the whole coast of
England round about, from Berwike to the Solue: yet I will not
let to set downe so much as by good hap remaineth, whereby my
countriemen shall not altogither want that benefit, hoping in time
to recouer also the rest, if God grant life and good successe
thereto.

[Sidenote: Northumberland.]
In Northumberland therefore we haue Berwike, Holie Iland, Bamborow,
Bedwell, Donstanborow, Cocket Iland, Warkeworth, Newbiggin, Almow,
Blithes nuke, and Tinmouth hauen.

[Sidenote: Durham.]
In the bishoprijc, Sonderland, Stocketon, Hartlepoole, These.

[Sidenote: Yorkeshire.]
In Yorkeshire, Dapnam sands, Steningreene, Staies, Runswike,
Robinhoods baie, Whitbie, Scarborow, Fileie, Flamborow, Bricklington,
Horneseie becke, Sister kirke, Kelseie, Cliffe, Pattenton, Holmes,
Kenningham, Pall, Hidon, Hulbrige, Beuerlie, Hull, Hasell,
Northferebie, Bucke créeke, Blacke cost, Wrethell, Howden.

[Sidenote: Lincolneshire.]
In Lincolneshire, Selbie, Snepe, Turnebrige, Rodiffe, Catebie,
Stockwith, Torkeseie, Gainsborow, Southferebie, Barton a good point,
Barrow a good hauen, Skatermill a good port, Penningham, Stalingborow
a good hauen, Guimsbie a good port, Clie, March chappell, Saltfléete,
Wilgripe, Mapleford, saint Clements, Wenfléete, Friscon, Toft,
Skerbike, Boston, Frompton, Woluerton, Fossedike a good hauen.

[Sidenote: Northfolke.]
In Northfolke, Linne a good hauen, Snatchham, Hitchham, Desingham
good, Thunstone, Thorneham good, Brankester good, Burnham good,
with diuers townes and villages thereto belonging, Welles good,
Strikeie, Marston, Blakeleie towne, Withon Claie, Blakelie hauen
good, Salthouse créeke, Sheringham hith, Roughton, Cromer, Beston,
Trinningham, Mounsleie, Bromwall, Haseborow, Wakesham, Eckelles,
Winterton, Custer, Helmesleie, Okell, Vpton, Waibridge, Yarmouth,
good all the waie to Norwich, with diuerse villages on the riuer
side.

[Sidenote: Suffolke.]
In Suffolke, Becles, Bongeie, Southton, Corton, Gorton, Laistow a
good port, Kirtill, Pakefield, Kasseldon, Bliborow, Coffe hith,
Eston, Walderswijc, Donewich, Swold hauen, Sisewell, Thorpe, Alborow,
Orford a good hauen, Balseie good, Felixstow, Colneie, Sproten,
Ypswich, Downambridge good, Pinnemill, Shoteleie, Cataweie, Barfold.

[Sidenote: Essex.]
In Essex we haue Dedham, Maning trée, Thorne, Wrabbesnes, Ramseie,
Harwich, Douercourt, Handford, Okeleie, Kirbie, Thorpe, Brichwill,
Walton mill, Walton hall, Ganfléete, Newhauen good, S. Osithes,
Bentleie good, Bricleseie, Thorlington (where good ships of a
hundred tun or more be made) Alsford, Wiuenhall, Colchester, Cold
hith, Rough hedge, Fingering ho, east Merseie, west Merseie, Salcot,
Goldanger, Borow, Maldon, Stanesgate, Sudmester, S. Peters, Burnham,
Crixseie, Aldon, Clements gréene, Hulbridge, Pacleston, Barling,
litle Wakering, much Wakering, south Sudburie, Wakeringham, Melton,
Papper hill, or Lee, Beamfléete, Pidseie range, Fobbing, Hadleie
good, Mucking, Stanford, and Tilberie ferrie.

[Sidenote: Kent.]
In Kent, Harling, Cliffe, Tanfleete, Stokehow, Snodlond, Melhall,
Maidston, Ailesford, New hith, Rochester, Gelingham, Reinham,
Vpchurch, Halsted, Quinborow, Milton, Feuersham, Whitstaple, Herne,
Margate, Brodestaier, Ramsgate; and manie of these good créekes:
also Sandwich, Douer, Hide, reasonable ports, although none of the
best.

[Sidenote: Sussex.]
In Sussex we haue Smalade with the créekes adioining to the same,
Ridon, Appledoure, Rie a good hauen, and Winchelseie nothing at
all inferiour to the same, and so manie shires onelie are left vnto
me at this time, wherefore of force I must abruptlie leaue off to
deale anie further with the rest, whose knowledge I am right sure
would haue been profitable: and for the which I hoped to haue reaped
great thankes at the hands of such sea-faring men, as should haue
had vse hereof.

_Desunt caetera._




OF THE AIRE, SOILE, AND COMMODITIES OF THIS ILAND.

CAP. XVIII.


[Sidenote: The aire of Britaine.]
The aire (for the most part) throughout the Iland is such, as by
reason in maner of continuall clouds, is reputed to be grosse, and
nothing so pleasant as that is of the maine. Howbeit, as they
which affirme these things, haue onelie respect to the impediment
or hinderance of the sunne beames, by the interposition of the
clouds and oft ingrossed aire: so experience teacheth vs, that it
is no lesse pure, wholesome, and commodious, than is that of other
countries, and (as Caesar himselfe hereto addeth) much more temperate
in summer than that of the Galles, from whom he aduentured hither.
Neither is there anie thing found in the aire of our region, that
is not vsuallie séene amongst other nations lieng beyond the seas.
Wherefore, we must néeds confesse, that the situation of our Iland
(for benefit of the heauens) is nothing inferiour to that of anie
countrie of the maine, where so euer it lie vnder the open firmament.
And this Plutarch knew full well, who affirmeth a part of the
Elisian fields to be found in Britaine, and the Iles that are
situate about it in the Ocean.

[Sidenote: The soile.]
The soile of Britaine is such, as by the testimonies and reports
both of the old and new writers, and experience also of such as
now inhabit the same, is verie fruitfull; and such in deed as
bringeth foorth manie commodities, whereof other countries haue
néed, and yet it selfe (if fond nicenesse were abolished) néedlesse
of those that are dailie brought from other places. Neuerthelesse
it is more inclined to féeding and grasing, than profitable for
tillage, and bearing of corne; by reason whereof the countrie is
wonderfullie replenished with neat, and all kind of cattell: and
such store is there also of the same in euerie place, that the
fourth part of the land is scarselie manured for the prouision and
maintenance of graine. Certes this fruitfulnesse was not vnknowne
vnto the Britons long before Caesars time, which was the cause
wherefore our predecessors liuing in those daies in maner neglected
tillage, and liued by féeding and grasing onelie. The grasiers
themselues also then dwelled in mooueable villages by companies,
whose custome was to diuide the ground amongst them, and each one
not to depart from the place where his lot laie (a thing much like
[Sidenote: Criacht.]
to the Irish Criacht) till by eating vp of the countrie about him,
he was inforced to remooue further, and séeke for better pasture.
And this was the British custome (as I learne) at first. It hath
béene commonlie reported, that the ground of Wales is neither so
fruitfull as that of England, neither the soile of Scotland so
bountifull as that of Wales: which is true, for corne and for the
most part: otherwise, there is so good ground in some parts of
Wales, as is in England, albeit the best of Scotland be scarselie
comparable to the meane of either of both. Howbeit, as the bountie
of the Scotish dooth faile in some respect, so dooth it surmount
in other; God and nature hauing not appointed all countries to
yéeld foorth like commodities.

But where our ground is not so good as we would wish, we haue (if
néed be) sufficient help to cherish our ground withall, and to make
it more fruitfull. For beside the compest that is carried out of
the husbandmens yards, ditches, ponds, doouehouses, or cities and
great townes: we haue with vs a kind of white marle, which is of
so great force, that if it be cast ouer a péece of land but once
in thrée score years, it shall not need of anie further compesting.
Hereof also dooth Plinie speake, lib. 17, cap. 6, 7, 8, where he
affirmeth that our marle indureth vpon the earth by the space of
[Sidenote: Marle.]
fourescore yeares: insomuch that it is laid vpon the same but once
in a mans life, whereby the owner shall not need to trauell twise
in procuring to commend and better his soile. He calleth it Marga,
and making diuerse kinds thereof, he finallie commendeth ours, and
that of France, aboue all other, which lieth sometime a hundred
foot déepe, and farre better than the scattering of chalke vpon
the same, as the Hedui and Pictones did in his time, or as some of
our daies also doo practise: albe it diuerse doo like better to
cast on lime, but it will not so long indure, as I haue heard
reported.

[Sidenote: Plentie of riuers.]
There are also in this Iland great plentie of fresh riuers and
streams, as you haue heard alreadie, and these throughlie fraught
with all kinds of delicate fish accustomed to be found in riuers.
[Sidenote: Hilles.]
The whole Ile likewise is verie full of hilles, of which some
(though not verie manie) are of exceeding heigth, and diuerse
extending themselues verie far from the beginning; as we may see
by Shooters hill, which rising east of London, and not farre from
the Thames, runneth along the south side of the Iland westward,
vntill it come to Cornewall. Like vnto these also are the Crowdon
hils, which though vnder diuers names (as also the other from the
Peke) doo run into the borders of Scotland. What should I speake
of the Cheuiot hilles, which reach twentie miles in length? of the
[Sidenote: (*) Here lacks.]
blacke mounteines in Wales, which go from (*) to (*) miles at the
least in length? of the Cle hilles in Shropshire, which come within
foure miles of Ludlow, and are diuided from some part of Worcester
by the Teme? of the Grames in Scotland, and of our Chiltren, which
are eightéene miles at the least from one end of them, which reach
from Henlie in Oxfordshire to Dunstable in Bedfordshire, and are
verie well replenished with wood and corne? notwithstanding that
the most part yéeld a sweet short grasse, profitable for shéepe.
Wherein albeit they of Scotland doo somewhat come behind vs, yet
their outward defect is inwardlie recompensed, not onelie with
plentie of quarries (and those of sundrie kinds of marble, hard
stone, and fine alabaster) but also rich mines of mettall, as shall
be shewed hereafter.

[Sidenote: Winds.]
In this Iland likewise the winds are commonlie more strong and
fierce, than in anie other places of the maine, which Cardane also
espied: and that is often séene vpon the naked hilles, not garded
with trées to beare and kéepe it off. That grieuous inconuenience
[Sidenote: Building.]
also inforceth our nobilitie, gentrie, and communaltie, to build
their houses in the vallies, leauing the high grounds vnto their
corne and cattell, least the cold and stormie blasts of winter
should bréed them greater annoiance: whereas in other regions each
one desireth to set his house aloft on the hill, not onlie to be
seene a farre off, and cast forth his beames of statelie and curious
workemanship into euerie quarter of the countrie; but also (in hot
habitations) for coldnesse sake of the aire, sith the heat is neuer
so vehement on the hill top as in the vallie, because the reuerberation
of the sunne beames either reacheth not so farre as the highest,
or else becommeth not so strong as when it is reflected upon the
lower soile.

[Sidenote: Husbandrie amended.]
But to leaue our buildings vnto the purposed place (which
notwithstanding haue verie much increased, I meane for curiositie
and cost, in England, Wales, and Scotland, within these few yeares)
and to returne to the soile againe. Certeinelie it is euen now in
these our daies growne to be much more fruitfull, than it hath
béene in times past. The cause is for that our countriemen are
growne to be more painefull, skilfull, and carefull through recompense
of gaine, than heretofore they haue béene: insomuch that my Synchroni,
or time fellows can reape at this present great commoditie in a
little roome; whereas of late yeares, a great compasse hath yéelded
but small profit, and this onelie through the idle and negligent
occupation of such, as dailie manured and had the same in occupieng.
I might set downe examples of these things out of all the parts of
this Iland, that is to saie, manie of England, more out of Scotland,
but most of all out of Wales: in which two last rehearsed, verie
little other food and liuelihood was wont to be looked for (beside
flesh) more than the soile of it selfe, and the cow gaue; the people
in the meane time liuing idelie, dissolutelie, and by picking and
stealing one from another. All which vices are now (for the most
part) relinquished, so that each nation manureth hir owne with
triple commoditie, to that it was before time.

[Sidenote: Pasture.]
The pasture of this Iland is according to the nature and bountie
of the soile, whereby in most places it is plentifull, verie fine,
batable, and such as either fatteth our cattell with speed, or
yéeldeth great abundance of milke and creame: whereof the yellowest
butter and finest chéese are made. But where the blue claie aboundeth
(which hardlie drinketh vp the winters water in long season) there
the grasse is spearie, rough, and verie apt for brushes: by which
occasion it commeth nothing so profitable vnto the owner as the
other. The best pasture ground of all England is in Wales, & of
all the pasture in Wales that of Cardigan is the cheefe. I speake
of the same which is to be found in the mounteines there, where
the hundred part of the grasse growing is not eaten, but suffered
to rot on the ground, whereby the soile becommeth matted, and
diuerse bogges and quicke moores made withall in long continuance:
because all the cattell in the countrie are not able to eat it
downe. If it be to be accompted good soile, on which a man may laie
a wand ouer night, and on the morrow find it hidden and ouergrowen
with grasse: it is not hard to find plentie thereof in manie places
of this land. Neuertheless, such is the fruitfulnes of the aforsaid
countie that it farre surmounteth this proportion, whereby it may
be compared for batablenesse with Italie, which in my time is called
the paradise of the world, although by reason of the wickednesse
of such as dwell therein it may be called the sinke and draine of
hell: so that whereas they were woont to saie of vs that our land
is good but our people euill, they did but onlie speake it; whereas
we know by experience that the soile of Italie is a noble soile,
but the dwellers therein farre off from anie vertue or goodnesse.

[Sidenote: Medowes.]
Our medowes, are either bottomes (whereof we haue great store, and
those verie large, bicause our soile is hillie) or else such as we
call land meads, and borowed from the best & fattest pasturages.
The first of them are yearelie & often ouerflowen by the rising of
such streames as passe through the same, or violent falles of
land-waters, that descend from the hils about them. The other are
seldome or neuer ouerflowen, and that is the cause wherefore their
grasse is shorter than that of the bottomes, and yet is it farre
more fine, wholesome, and batable, sith the haie of our low medowes
is not onelie full of sandie cinder, which breedeth sundrie diseases
in our cattell, but also more rowtie, foggie, and full of flags,
and therefore not so profitable for stouer and forrage as the higher
meads be. The difference furthermore in their commodities is great,
for whereas in our land meadowes we haue not often aboue one good
load of haie, or peraduenture a little more in an acre of ground
(I vse the word Carrucata or Carruca which is a waine load, and,
as I remember, vsed by Plinie lib. 33. cap. 11.) in low meadowes
we haue sometimes thrée, but commonlie two or vpward, as experience
hath oft confirmed.

Of such as are twise mowed I speake not, sith their later math is
not so wholesome for cattell s the first; although in the mouth
more pleasant for the time: for thereby they become oftentimes to
be rotten, or to increase so fast in bloud, that the garget and
other diseases doo consume manie of them before the owners can
séeke out any remedie, by Phlebotomie or otherwise. Some superstitious
fooles suppose that they which die of the garget are ridden with
the night mare, and therefore they hang vp stones which naturallie
haue holes in them, and must be found vnlooked for; as if such a
stone were an apt cockeshot for the diuell to run through and solace
himselfe withall, whilest the cattell go scot free and are not
molested by him. But if I should set downe but halfe the toies that
superstition hath brought into our husbandmens heads in this and
other behalfes, it would aske a greater volume than is conuenient
for such a purpose, wherefore it shall suffice to haue said thus
much of these things.

[Sidenote: Corne.]
The yéeld of our corne-ground is also much after this rate folowing.
Through out the land (if you please to make an estimat thereof by
the acre) in meane and indifferent yeares, wherein each acre of
rie or wheat, well tilled and dressed, will yeeld commonlie sixtéene
or twentie bushels, an acre of barlie six and thirtie bushels, of
otes and such like foure or fiue quarters, which proportion is
notwithstanding oft abated toward the north, as it is oftentimes
surmounted in the south. Of mixed corne, as peason and beanes,
sowen togither, tares and otes (which they call bulmong) rie and
wheat named miscelin here is no place to speake, yet their yéeld
is neuerthelesse much after this proportion, as I haue often marked.
And yet is not this our great foison comparable to that of hoter
countries of the maine. But of all that euer I read, the increase
which Eldred Danus writeth of in his De imperio Iudaeorum in
Aethiopia surmounteth, where he saith that in the field néere to
the Sabbatike riuer, called in old time Gosan, the ground is so
fertile, that euerie graine of barleie growing dooth yéeld an
hundred kernels at the least vnto the owner.

Of late yeares also we haue found and taken vp a great trade in
planting of hops, whereof our moorie hitherto and vnprofitable
grounds doo yeeld such plentie & increase, that their are few
farmers or occupiers in the countrie, which haue not gardens and
hops growing of their owne, and those farre better than doo come
from Flanders vnto us. Certes the corruptions vsed by the Flemings,
and forgerie dailie practised in this kind of ware, gaue vs occasion
to plant them here at home: so that now we may spare and send manie
ouer vnto them. And this I know by experience, that some one man
by conuersion of his moorie grounds into hopyards, wherof before
he had no commoditie, dooth raise yearelie by so little as twelue
acres in compasse two hundred markes; all charges borne toward the
maintenance of his familie. Which industrie God continue! though
some secret fréends of Flemings let not to exclaime against this
commoditie, as a spoile of wood, by reason of the poles, which
neuerthelesse after three yeares doo also come to the fire, and
spare their other fewell.

[Sidenote: Cattell.]
The cattell which we breed are commonlie such, as for greatnesse
of bone, swéetnesse of flesh, and other benefits to be reaped by
the same, giue place vnto none other: as may appeare first by our
oxen, whose largenesse, height, weight, tallow, hides, and hornes
are such, as none of anie other nation doo commonlie or may easilie
excéed them. Our shéepe likewise for good tast of flesh, quantitie
of lims, finesse of fléece caused by their hardnesse of pasturage,
and abundance of increase (for in manie places they bring foorth
two or thrée at an eaning) giue no place vnto anie, more than doo
our goates, who in like sort doo follow the same order, and our
[Sidenote: Meall and Disnege.]
déere come not behind. As for our conies, I haue séene them so fat
in some soiles, especiallie about Meall and Disnege, that the grease
of one being weighed, hath peised verie néere six or seuen ounces.
All which benefits we first refer to the grace and goodnesse of
God, and next of all vnto the bountie of our soile, which he hath
indued with so notable and commodious fruitfulnesse.

But as I meane to intreat of these things more largelie hereafter,
[Sidenote: Wine.]
so will I touch in this place one benefit which our nation wanteth,
and that is wine; the fault whereof is not in our soile, but the
negligence of our countriemen (especiallie of the south partes)
who doo not inure the same to this commoditie, and which by reason
of long discontinuance, is now become vnapt to beare anie grapes
almost for pleasure & shadow, much lesse then the plaine fields or
seuerall vineyards for aduantage and commoditie. Yet of late time
some haue assaied to deale for wine, as to your lordship also is
right well knowen. But sith that liquor when it commeth to the
drinking hath bin found more hard, than that which is brought from
beyond the sea, and the cost of planting and keeping thereof so
chargeable, that they may buie it far better cheape from other
countries: they haue giuen ouer their enterprises without anie
consideration, that as in all other things, so neither the ground
it selfe in the beginning, nor successe of their trauell can answer
their expectation at the first, vntill such time as the soile be
brought as it were into acquaintance with this commoditie, and that
prouision may be made for the more easinesse of charge, to be
imploied vpon the same.

If it be true, that where wine dooth last and indure well, there
it will grow no worse: I muse not a little wherefore the planting
of vines should be neglected in England. That this liquor might
haue growne in this Iland heretofore, first the charter that Probus
the emperour gaue equallie to vs, the Galles, and Spaniards, is
one sufficient testimonie. And that it did grow here, beside the
testimonie of Beda lib. 1. cap. 1. the old notes of tithes for wine
that yet remaine in the accompts of some parsons and vicars in
Kent, & elsewhere, besides the records of sundrie sutes, commensed
in diuerse ecclesiasticall courts, both in Kent, Surrie, &c: also
the inclosed parcels almost in euerie abbeie yet called the
vineyardes, may be a notable witnesse, as also the plot which we
now call east Smithfield in London giuen by Canutus sometime king
of this land, with other soile there about vnto certeine of his
knights, with the libertie of a Guild which therof was called
Knighten Guild. The truth is (saith Iohn Stow our countrie man,
and diligent traueller in the old estate of this my natiue citie)
that it is now named Port soken ward, and giuen in time past to
the religious house within Algate. Howbeit first Otwell, the
Archouell, Otto, & finallie Geffrie erle of Essex constables of
the Tower of London, withheld that portion from the said house,
vntill the reigne of king Stephan, and thereof made a vineyard to
their great commoditie and lucre. The Ile of Elie also was in the
first times of the Normans called Le Ile des vignes. And good record
appéereth, that the bishop there had yearelie thrée or foure tunne
at the least giuen him Nomine decimae, beside whatsoeuer ouer-summe
of the liquor did accrue to him by leases and other excheats,
whereof also I haue seene mention. Wherefore our soile is not to
be blamed, as though our nights were so exceeding short, that in
August and September the moone which is ladie of moisture, & chiefe
ripener of this liquor, cannot in anie wise shine long inough vpon
the same: a verie méere toie and fable right worthie to be suppressed,
because experience conuinceth the vpholders thereof euen in the
Rhenish wines.

[Sidenote: Wad.]
The time hath béene also that wad, wherwith our countrie men died
their faces (as Caesar saith) that they might séeme terrible to
their enimies in the field, and also women & their daughters in
law did staine their bodies & go naked, in that pickle to the
[Sidenote: Madder.]
sacrifices of their gods, coueting to resemble therin the Ethiopians,
as Plinie saith li. 22. cap. 1. and also madder haue béene (next
vnto our tin and woolles) the chiefe commodities, and merchandize
[Sidenote: Rape.]
of this realme. I find also that rape oile hath beene made within
this land. But now our soile either will not or at the leastwise
may not beare either wad or madder: I saie not that the ground is
not able so to doo, but that we are negligent, afraid of the pilling
of our grounds, and carelesse of our owne profit, as men rather
[Sidenote: Flax.]
willing to buie the same of others than take anie paine to plant
them here at home. The like I may saie of flax, which by law ought
to be sowen in euerie countrie-towne in England, more or lesse:
but I sée no successe of that good and wholesome law, sith it is
rather contemptuouslie reiected than otherwise dutifullie kept in
anie place of England.

Some saie that our great number of lawes doo bréed a generall
negligence and contempt of all good order; bicause we haue so manie,
that no subiect can liue without the transgression of some of them,
and that the often alteration of our ordinances dooth much harme
in this respect, which (after Aristotle) doth séeme to carie some
reason withall, for (as Cornelius Gallus hath:)

[Sidenote: Eleg. 2.]
  Euentus varios res noua semper habet.

But verie manie let not to affirme, that the gréedie corruption of
the promoters on the one side, facilitie in dispensing with good
lawes, and first breach of the same in the lawmakers & superiors,
& priuat respects of their establishment on the other, are the
greatest causes whie the inferiours regard no good order, being
[Sidenote: Principis longè magis exemplo quam culpa peccare solent.]
alwaies so redie to offend without anie facultie one waie, as they
are otherwise to presume, vpon the examples of their betters when
anie hold is to be taken. But as in these things I haue no skill,
so I wish that fewer licences for the priuat commoditie but of a
few were granted (not that thereby I denie the maintenance f the
prerogatiue roiall, but rather would with all my hart that it might
be yet more honorablie increased) & that euerie one which by féeed
friendship (or otherwise) dooth attempt to procure oughts from the
prince, that may profit but few and proue hurtfull to manie, might
be at open assizes and sessions denounced enimie to his countrie
and commonwealth of the land.

Glasse also hath beene made here in great plentie before, and in
the time of the Romans; and the said stuffe also, beside fine
scissers, shéeres, collars of gold and siluer for womens necks,
cruses and cups of amber, were a parcell of the tribute which
Augustus in his daies laid vpon this Iland. In like sort he charged
the Britons with certeine implements and vessels of iuorie (as
Strabo saith.) Wherby it appéereth that in old time our countriemen
were farre more industrious and painefull in the vse and application
of the benefits of their countrie, than either after the comming
of the Saxons or Normans, in which they gaue themselues more to
idlenesse and following of the warres.

[Sidenote: Earth.]
If it were requisit that I should speake of the sundrie kinds of
moold, as the cledgie or claie, whereof are diuerse sorts (red,
blue, blacke and white) also the red or white sandie, the lomie,
rosellie, grauellie, chalkie or blacke, I could saie that there
are so manie diuerse veines in Britaine, as else where in anie
quarter of like quantitie in the world. Howbeit this I must néeds
confesse, that the sandie and cledgie doo beare great swaie: but
the claie most of all, as hath beene, and yet is alwaies séene &
felt through plentie and dearth of corne. For if this latter (I
meane the claie) doo yeeld hir full increase (which it dooth
commonlie in drie yeares for wheat) then is there generall plentie:
wheras if it faile, then haue we scarsitie, according to the old
rude verse set downe of England, but to be vnderstood of the whole
Iland, as experience dooth confirme:

  When the sand dooth serue the claie,
  Then may we sing well awaie,
  But when the claie dooth serue the sand,
  Then is it merie with England.

[Sidenote: Vallies.]
I might here intreat of the famous vallies in England, of which
one is called the vale of White horsse, another of Eouesham,
commonlie taken for the granarie of Worcestershire, the third of
Ailesbirie that goeth by Tame, the rootes of Chilterne hils, to
Donstable, Newport panell, Stonie Stratford, Buckhingham, Birstane
parke, &c. Likewise of the fourth of Whitehart or Blackemoore in
Dorsetshire. The fift of Ringdale or Renidale, corruptlie called
Ringtaile, that lieth (as mine author saith) vpon the edge of Essex
and Cambridgeshire, and also the Marshwood vale: but for somuch as
I know not well their seuerall limits, I giue ouer to go anie
further in their description. In like sort it should not be amisse
[Sidenote: Fennes.]
to speake of our fennes, although our countrie be not so full of
this kind of soile as the parties beyond the seas, to wit, Narbon,
&c: and thereto of other pleasant botoms, the which are not onelie
indued with excellent riuers and great store of corne and fine
fodder for neat and horsses in time of the yeare (whereby they are
excéeding beneficiall vnto their owners) but also of no small
compasse and quantitie in ground. For some of our fens are well
knowen to be either of ten, twelue, sixtéene, twentie, or thirtie
miles in length, that of the Girwies yet passing all the rest,
which is full 60 (as I haue often read.) Wherein also Elie the
famous Ile standeth, which is seuen miles euerie waie, and wherevnto
there is no accesse but by thrée causies, whose inhabitants in like
sort by an old priuilege may take wood, sedge, turfe, &c; to burne:
likewise haie for their cattell, and thatch for their houses of
custome, and each occupier in his appointed quantitie through out
the Ile; albeit that couetousnesse hath now begun somewhat to
abridge this large beneuolence and commoditie, aswell in the said
Ile as most other places of this land.

[Sidenote: Commons.]
Finallie, I might discourse in like order of the large commons,
laid out heretofore by the lords of the soiles for the benefit of
such poore, as inhabit within the compasse of their manors. But as
the true intent of the giuers is now in most places defrauded, in
so much that not the poore tenants inhabiting vpon the same, but
their landlords haue all the commoditie and gaine, so the tractation
of them belongeth rather to the second booke. Wherfore I meane not
at this present to deale withall, but reserue the same wholie vnto
the due place whilest I go forward with the rest; setting downe
neuerthelesse by the waie a generall commendation of the whole
Iland, which I find in an ancient monument, much vnto this effect.

                       Illa quidem longè celebris splendore, beata,
                       Glebis, lacte, fauis, supereminet insula cunctis,
                       Quas regit ille Deus, spumanti cuius ab ore
                       Profluit oceanus, &c.
_And a little after:_  Testis Lundonia ratibus, Wintonia Baccho,
                       Herefordia grege, Worcestria fruge redundans,
                       Batha lacu, Salabyra feris, Cantuaria pisce,
                       Eboraca syluis, Excestria clara metallis,
                       Norwicum Dacis hybernis, Cestria Gallis,
                       Cicestrum Norwagenis, Dunelmia praepinguis,
                       Testis Lincolnia gens infinita decore,
                       Testis Eli formosa situ, Doncastria visu, &c.




OF THE FOURE HIGH WAIES SOMETIME MADE IN BRITAINE BY THE PRINCES
OF THIS ILAND.

CAP. XIX.


There are, which indeuoring to bring all things to their Saxon
originall, doo affirme, that this diuision of waies, (whereof we
now intreat) should apperteine vnto such princes of that nation as
reigned here, since the Romanes gaue vs ouer: and herevpon they
inferre, that Wattling street was builded by one Wattle from the
east vnto the west. But how weake their coniectures are in this
behalfe, the antiquitie of these streets it selfe shall easilie
declare, whereof some parcelles, after a sort, are also set downe
by Antoninus; and those that haue written of the seuerall iournies
from hence to Rome: although peraduenture not in so direct an order
as they were at the first established. For my part, if it were not
that I desire to be short in this behalfe, I could with such notes
as I haue alreadie collected for that purpose, make a large
confutation of diuerse of their opinions concerning these passages,
and thereby rather ascribe the originall of these waies to the
Romans than either the British or Saxon princes. But sith I haue
spent more time in the tractation of the riuers than was allotted
vnto me, and that I sée great cause (notwithstanding my late alledged
scruple) wherfore I should hold with our Galfride before anie other;
I will omit at this time to discourse of these things as I would,
and saie what I maie for the better knowledge of their courses,
procéeding therein as followeth.

First of all I find, that Dunwallon king of Britaine, about 483
yeares before the birth of our sauiour Iesus Christ, séeing the
subiects of his realme to be in sundrie wise oppressed by théeues
and robbers as they trauelled to and fro; and being willing (so
much as in him laie) to redresse these inconueniences, caused his
whole kingdome to be surueied; and then commanding foure principall
waies to be made, which should leade such as trauelled into all
parts thereof, from sea to sea, he gaue sundrie large priuileges
vnto the same, whereby they became safe, and verie much frequented.
And as he had regard herein to the securitie of his subiects, so
he made sharpe lawes grounded vpon iustice, for the suppression of
such wicked members as did offer violence to anie traueler that
should be met withall or found within the limits of those passages.
How and by what parts of this Iland these waies were conueied at
the first, it is not so wholie left in memorie: but that some
question is mooued among the learned, concerning their ancient
courses. Howbeit such is the shadow remaining hitherto of their
extensions, that if not at this present perfectlie, yet hereafter
it is not vnpossible, but that they may be found out, & left certeine
vnto posteritie. It seemeth by Galfride, that the said Dunwallon
did limit out those waies by dooles and markes, which being in
short time altered by the auarice of such irreligious persons as
dwelt néere, and incroched vpon the same (a fault yet iustlie to
be found almost in euerie place, euen in the time of our most
gratious and souereigne Ladie Elizabeth, wherein the lords of the
soiles doo vnite their small occupieng, onelie to increase a greater
proportion of rent; and therefore they either remooue, or giue
licence to erect small tenements vpon the high waies sides and
commons; wherevnto, in truth, they haue no right: and yet out of
them also doo raise a new commoditie) and question mooued for their
bounds before Belinus his sonne, he to auoid all further controuersie
that might from thencefoorth insue, caused the same to be paued
with hard stone of eightéene foot in breadth, ten foot in depth,
and in the bottome thereof huge flint stones also to be pitched,
least the earth in time should swallow vp his workemanship, and
the higher ground ouer-grow their rising crests. He indued them
also with larger priuileges than before, protesting that if anie
man whosoeuer should presume to infringe his peace, and violate
the lawes of his kingdome in anie maner of wise, neere vnto or vpon
those waies, he should suffer such punishment without all hope to
escape (by freendship or mercie) as by the statutes of this realme
latelie prouided in those cases were due vnto the offendors. The
names of these foure waies are the Fosse, the Gwethelin or Watling,
the Erming, and the Ikenild.

[Sidenote: Fosse.]
The Fosse goeth not directlie but slopewise ouer the greatest part
of this Iland, beginning at Dotnesse or Totnesse in Deuonshire,
where Brute somtime landed, or (as Ranulphus saith, which is more
likelie) at the point of Cornwall, though the eldest writers doo
séeme to note the contrarie. From hence it goeth thorough the middle
of Deuonshire & Summersetshire, and commeth to Bristow, from whence
it runneth manifestlie to Sudberie market, Tetburie, and so foorth
holdeth on as you go almost to the midde waie betweene Glocester
and Cirnecester, (where the wood faileth, and the champeigne countrie
appeareth toward Cotteswald) streight as a line vntill you come to
Cirnecester it selfe. Some hold opinion that the waie, which lieth
from Cirnecester to Bath, should be the verie Fosse; and that
betwixt Cirnecester and Glocester to be another of the foure waies,
made by the Britons. But ancient report grounded vpon great
likelihood, and confirmed also by some experience, iudgeth that
most of the waies crossed ech other in this part of the realme.
And of this mind is Leland also, who learned it of an abbat of
Cirnecester that shewed great likelihood by some records thereof.
But to procéed. From Cirnecester, it goeth by Chepingnorton to
Couentrie, Leircester, Newarke, and so to Lincolne ouerthwart the
Watlingstreet: where, by generall consent of all the writers (except
Alfred of Beuerleie, who extendeth it vnto Cathnesse in Scotland)
it is said to haue an end.

[Sidenote: Watling stréet.]
The Watlingstréete begun (as I said) by Dunwallo, but finished by
Gutheline, of whome it is directlie to be called Gutheline stréet,
though now corrupted into Watlingstréet, beginneth at Douer in
Kent, and so stretcheth through the middest of Kent vnto London,
and so foorth (peraduenture by the middest of the citie) vnto
Verolamium or Verlamcester, now saint Albons, where, in the yeare
of grace, one thousand fiue hundred thirtie & one, the course
thereof was found by a man that digged for grauell wherwith to mend
the high waie. It was in this place eighteene foot broad, and
about ten foot déepe, and stoned in the bottome in such wise as I
haue noted afore, and peraduenture also on the top: but these are
gone, and the rest remaine equall in most places, and leuell with
the fields. The yelow grauell also that was brought thither in
carts two thousand yéeres passed, remained there so fresh and so
strong, as if it had béene digged out of the naturall place where
it grew not manie yéeres before. From hence it goeth hard by Margate,
leauing it on the west side. And a little by south of this place,
where the priorie stood, is a long thorough fare vpon the said
street, méetly well builded (for low housing) on both sides. After
this it procéedeth (as the chronicle of Barnwell saith) to Caxton,
and so to Huntingdon, & then forward, still winding in and out till
it not onelie becommeth a bound vnto Leicestershire toward Lugbie,
but also passeth from Castleford to Stamford, and so foorth by west
of Marton, which is but a mile from Torkeseie.

Here by the waie I must touch the opinion of a traueller of my
time, who noteth the said stréet to go another waie, insomuch that
he would haue it to crosse the third Auon, betwixt Newton and
Dowbridge, and so go on to Binford bridge, Wibtoft, the High crosse,
and thence to Atherston vpon Ancre. Certes it may be, that the
Fosse had his course by the countrie in such sort as he describeth;
but that the Watlingstréet should passe by Atherston, I cannot as
yet be persuaded. Neuerthelesse his coniecture is not to be misliked,
sith it is not vnlikelie that thrée seuerall waies might méet at
Alderwaie (a towne vpon Tame, beneath Salters bridge) for I doo
not doubt that the said towne did take his name of all three waies,
as Aldermarie church in London did of all thrée Maries, vnto whom
it hath béene dedicated: but that the Watlingstréet should be one
of them, the compasse of his passage will in no wise permit. And
thus much haue I thought good to note by the waie. Now to returne
againe to Leland, and other mens collections.

The next tidings that we heare of the Watlingstréet, are that it
goeth thorough or neere by the parke at Pomfret, as the common
voice also of the countrie confirmeth. Thence it passeth hastilie
ouer Castelford bridge to Aberford, which is fiue miles from thence,
and where are most manifest tokens of this stréet and his broad
crest by a great waie togither, also to Yorke, to Witherbie, and
then to Borowbridge, where on the left hand thereof stood certeine
monuments, or pyramides of stone, sometimes placed there by the
ancient Romanes. These stones (saith Leland) stand eight miles west
from Bowis, and almost west from Richmond is a little thorough fare
called Maiden castell, situate apparantlie vpon the side of this
stréet. And here is one of those pyramides or great round heapes,
which is three score foot compasse in the bottome. There are other
also of lesse quantities, and on the verie top of ech of them are
sharpe stones of a yard in length; but the greatest of all is
eighteene foot high at the least, from the ground to the verie
head. He addeth moreouer, how they stand on an hill in the edge of
Stanes moore, and are as bounds betwéene Richmondshire, and
Westmerland. But to procéed. This stréet lieng a mile from Gilling,
and two miles from Richmond commeth on from Borowbridge to Catericke,
eightéene miles; that is, twelue to Leuing, & six to Catericke;
then eleuen miles to Greteie or Gritto, fiue miles to Bottles,
eight miles to Burgh on Stanes moore, foure miles from Applebie,
and fiue to Browham, where the said stréet commeth thorough Winfoll
parke, and ouer the bridge on Eiemouth and Loder, and leauing Perith
a quarter of a mile or more on the west side of it, goeth to Carleill
seuenteene miles from Browham, which hath béene some notable thing.
Hitherto it appeareth euidentlie, but going from hence into Scotland,
I heare no more of it, vntill I come to Cathnesse, which is two
hundred and thirtie miles or thereabouts out of England.

[Sidenote: Erming stréet.]
The Erming stréet, which some call the Lelme, stretcheth out of
the east, as they saie, into the southeast, that is, from Meneuia
or S. Dauids in Wales vnto Southampton, whereby it is somewhat
likelie indeed that these two waies, I meane the Fosse and the
Erming, should meet about Cirnecester, as it commeth from Glocester,
according to the opinion conceiued of them in that countrie. Of
this waie I find no more written, and therefore I can saie no more
of it, except I should indeuor to driue awaie the time, in alleging
what other men say thereof, whose minds doo so farre disagrée one
from another, as they doo all from a truth, and therefore I giue
[Sidenote: Ikenild.]
them ouer as not delighting in such dealing. The Ikenild or Rikenild
began somewhere in the south, and so held on toward Cirnecester,
then to Worcester, Wicombe, Brimcham, Lichfield, Darbie, Chesterfield;
and crossing the Watlingstréet somewhere in Yorkeshire, stretched
foorth in the end vnto the mouth of the Tine, where it ended at
the maine sea, as most men doo confesse. I take it to be called
the Ikenild, because it passed thorough the kingdome of the Icenes.
For albeit that Leland & other following him doo séeme to place
the Icenes in Norffolke and Suffolke; yet in mine opinion that can
not well be doone, sith it is manifest by Tacitus, that they laie
néere vnto the Silures, and (as I gesse) either in Stafford and
Worcester shires, or in both, except my coniecture doo faile me.
The author of the booke, intituled Eulogium historiarum, doth call
this stréet the Lelme. But as herein he is deceiued, so haue I
dealt withall so faithfullie as I may among such diuersitie of
opinions; yet not denieng but that there is much confusion in the
names and courses of these two latter, the discussing whereof I
must leaue to other men that are better learned than I.

Now to speake generallie of our common high waies through the
English part of the Ile (for of the rest I can saie nothing) you
shall vnderstand that in the claie or cledgie soile they are often
verie déepe and troublesome in the winter halfe. Wherfore by
authoritie of parlement an order is taken for their yearelie
amendment, whereby all sorts of the common people doo imploie their
trauell for six daies in summer vpon the same. And albeit that the
intent of the statute is verie profitable for the reparations of
the decaied places, yet the rich doo so cancell their portions,
and the poore so loiter in their labours, that of all the six,
scarcelie two good days works are well performed and accomplished
in a parish on these so necessarie affaires. Besides this, such as
haue land lieng vpon the sides of the waies, doo vtterlie neglect
to dich and scowre their draines and watercourses, for better
auoidance of the winter waters (except it may be set off or cut
from the meaning of the statute) whereby the streets doo grow to
be much more gulled than before, and thereby verie noisome for such
as trauell by the same. Sometimes also, and that verie often, these
daies works are not imploied vpon those waies that lead from market
to market, but ech surueior amendeth such by-plots & lanes as séeme
best for his owne commoditie, and more easie passage vnto his fields
and pastures. And whereas in some places there is such want of
stones, as thereby the inhabitants are driuen to seeke them farre
off in other soiles: the owners of the lands wherein those stones
are to be had, and which hitherto haue giuen monie to haue them
borne awaie, doo now reape no small commoditie by raising the same
to excessiue prices, whereby their neighbours are driuen to grieuous
charges, which is another cause wherefore the meaning of that good
law is verie much defrauded. Finallie, this is another thing likewise
to be considered of, that the trées and bushes growing by the
stréets sides; doo not a little keepe off the force of the sunne
in summer for drieng vp of the lanes. Wherefore if order were taken
that their boughs should continuallie be kept short, and the bushes
not suffered to spread so far into the narrow paths, that inconuenience
would also be remedied, and manie a slough proue hard ground that
yet is deepe and hollow. Of the dailie incroaching of the couetous
vpon the hie waies I speake not. But this I know by experience,
that wheras some streets within these fiue and twentie yeares haue
beene in most places fiftie foot broad according to the law, whereby
the traueller might either escape the théefe or shift the mier, or
passe by the loaden cart without danger of himselfe and his horsse;
now they are brought vnto twelue, or twentie, or six and twentie
at the most, which is another cause also whereby the waies be the
worse, and manie an honest man encombred in his iourneie. But what
speake I of these things whereof I doo not thinke to heare a iust
redresse, because the error is so common, and the benefit thereby
so sweet and profitable to manie, by such houses and cotages as
are raised vpon the same.




OF THE GENERALL CONSTITUTION OF THE BODIES OF THE BRITONS.

CHAP. XX.


Such as are bred in this Iland are men for the most part of a good
complexion, tall of stature, strong in bodie, white of colour, and
thereto of great boldnesse and courage in the warres. As for their
generall comelinesse of person, the testimonie of Gregorie the
great, at such time as he saw English capteins sold at Rome, shall
easilie confirme what it is, which yet dooth differ in sundrie
shires and soiles, as also their proportion of members, as we may
perceiue betwéene Herefordshire and Essex men, or Cambridgeshire
and the Londoners for the one, and Pokington and Sedberrie for the
other; these latter being distinguished by their noses and heads,
which commonlie are greater there than in other places of the land.
As concerning the stomachs also of our nation in the field, they
haue alwaies beene in souereigne admiration among forren princes:
for such hath béene the estimation of our souldiers from time to
time, since our Ile hath béene knowne vnto the Romans, that
wheresoeuer they haue serued in forren countries, the cheefe brunts
of seruice haue beene reserued vnto them. Of their conquests and
bloudie battels woone in France, Germanie, and Scotland, our
histories are full: & where they haue beene ouercome, the victorers
themselues confessed their victories to haue béene so déerelie
bought, that they would not gladlie couet to ouercome often, after
such difficult maner. In martiall prowesse, there is little or no
difference betwéene Englishmen and Scots: for albeit that the Scots
haue beene often and verie gréeuouslie ouercome by the force of
our nation, it hath not béene for want of manhood on their parts,
but through the mercie of God shewed on vs, and his iustice vpon
them, sith they alwaies haue begun the quarels, and offered vs
méere iniurie with great despite and crueltie.

Leland noting somewhat of the constitution of our bodies, saith
these words grounding (I thinke vpon Aristotle, who writeth that
such as dwell neere the north, are of more courage and strength of
bodie than skilfulnesse or wisdome.) The Britons are white in
colour, strong of bodie, and full of bloud, as people inhabiting
neere the north, and farre from the equinoctiall line, where the
soile is not so fruitfull, and therefore the people not so feeble:
whereas contrariwise such as dwell toward the course of the sunne,
are lesse of stature, weaker of bodie, more nice, delicate, fearefull
by nature, blacker in colour, & some so blacke in déed as anie crow
or rauen. Thus saith he. Howbeit, as those which are bred in sundrie
places of the maine, doo come behind vs in constitution of bodie,
so I grant, that in pregnancie of wit, nimblenesse of limmes, and
politike inuentions, they generallie exceed vs: notwithstanding
that otherwise these gifts of theirs doo often degenerate into
méere subtiltie, instabilitie, vnfaithfulnesse, & crueltie. Yet
Alexander ab Alexandro is of the opinion, that the fertilest region
dooth bring foorth the dullest wits, and contrariwise the harder
soile the finest heads. But in mine opinion, the most fertile soile
dooth bring foorth the proudest nature, as we may see by the
Campanians, who (as Cicero also saith) had "Penes eos ipsum domicilium
superbiae." But nether of these opinions do iustlie take hold of
vs, yet hath it pleased the writers to saie their pleasures of vs.
And for that we dwell northward, we are commonlie taken by the
forren historiographers, to be men of great strength and little
policie, much courage and small shift, bicause of the weake abode
of the sunne with vs, whereby our braines are not made hot and
warmed, as Pachymerus noteth lib. 3: affirming further, that the
people inhabiting in the north parts are white of colour, blockish,
vnciuill, fierce and warlike, which qualities increase, as they
come neerer vnto the pole; whereas the contrarie pole giueth
contrarie gifts, blacknesse, wisdome, ciuilitie, weakenesse, and
cowardise, thus saith he. But alas, how farre from probabilitie or
as if there were not one and the same conclusion to be made of the
constitutions of their bodies, which dwell vnder both the poles.
For in truth his assertion holdeth onelie in their persons that
inhabit néere vnto and vnder the equinoctiall. As for the small
[Sidenote: Non vi sed virtute, non armis sed ingenio vincuntur Angli.]
tariance of the sunne with vs, it is also confuted by the length
of our daies. Wherefore his reason seemeth better to vphold that
of Alexander ab Alexandro afore alledged, than to prooue that we
want wit, bicause our brains are not warmed by the tariance of the
sunne. And thus also dooth Comineus burden vs after a sort in his
historie, and after him, Bodinus. But thanked be God, that all the
wit of his countriemen, if it may be called wit, could neuer compasse
to doo so much in Britaine, as the strength and courage of our
Englishmen (not without great wisedome and forecast) haue brought
to passe in France. The Galles in time past contemned the Romans
(saith Caesar) bicause of the smalnesse of their stature: howbeit,
for all their greatnesse (saith he) and at the first brunt in the
warres, they shew themselues to be but féeble, neither is their
courage of any force to stand in great calamities. Certes in accusing
our wisedome in this sort, he dooth (in mine opinion) increase our
commendation. For if it be a vertue to deale vprightlie with
singlenesse of mind, sincerelie and plainlie, without anie such
suspicious fetches in all our dealing, as they commonlie practise
in their affaires, then are our countrimen to be accompted wise
and vertuous. But if it be a vice to colour craftinesse, subtile
practises, doublenesse, and hollow behauiour, with a cloake of
policie, amitie and wisedome: then are Comineus and his countrimen
to be reputed vicious, of whome this prouerbe hath of old time
beene vsed as an eare marke of their dissimulation,

  Galli ridendo fidem frangunt. &c.

How these latter points take hold in Italie, I meane not to discusse.
How they are dailie practised in manie places of the maine, & he
accompted most wise and politike, that can most of all dissemble;
here is no place iustlie to determine (neither would I wish my
countrimen to learne anie such wisedome) but that a king of France
could saie; "Qui nescit dissimulare, nescit regnare, _or_ viuere,"
their owne histories are testimonies sufficient. Galen, the noble
physician, transferring the forces of our naturall humors from the
bodie to the mind, attributeth to the yellow colour, prudence; to
the blacke, constancie; to bloud, mirth; to phlegme, courtesie:
which being mixed more or lesse among themselues, doo yéeld an
infinit varietie. By this meanes therefore it commeth to passe,
that he whose nature inclineth generallie to phlegme, cannot but
be courteous: which ioined with strength of bodie, and sinceritie
of behauiour (qualities vniuersallie granted to remaine so well in
our nation, as other inhabitants of the north) I cannot see what
may be an hinderance whie I should not rather conclude, that the
Britons doo excell such as dwell in the hoter countries, than for
want of craft and subtilties to come anie whit behind them. It is
but vanitie also for some to note vs (as I haue often heard in
common table talke) as barbarous, bicause we so little regard the
shedding of our bloud, and rather tremble not when we sée the liquor
of life to go from vs (I vse their owne words.) Certes if we be
barbarous in their eies, bicause we be rather inflamed than appalled
at our wounds, then are those obiectors flat cowards in our iudgement:
sith we thinke it a great péece of manhood to stand to our tackling,
vntill the last drop, as men that may spare much bicause we haue
much: whereas they hauing lesse are afraid to lose that little
which they haue: as Frontinus also noteth. As for that which the
French write of their owne manhood in their histories, I make little
accompt of it: for I am of the opinion, that as an Italian writing
of his credit; A papist intreating of religion, a Spaniard of his
méekenesse, or a Scot of his manhood, is not to be builded on; no
more is a Frenchman to be trusted in the report of his owne affaires,
wherein he dooth either dissemble or excéed, which is a foule vice
in such as professe to deale vprightlie. Neither are we so hard to
strangers as Horace wold séeme to make vs, sith we loue them so
long as they abuse vs not, & make accompt of them so far foorth as
they despise vs not. And this is generallie to be verified, in that
they vse our priuileges and commodities for diet, apparell and
trade of gaine, in so ample manner as we our selues enioy them:
which is not lawfull for vs to doo in their countries, where no
stranger is suffered to haue worke, if an home-borne be without.
But to procéed with our purpose.

With vs (although our good men care not to liue long, but to liue
well) some doo liue an hundred yéers, verie manie vnto foure score:
as for thrée score, it is taken but for our entrance into age, so
that in Britaine no man is said to wax old till he draw vnto thrée
score, at which time God spéed you well commeth in place; as
[Sidenote: Salutations according to our ages.]
Epaminondas sometime said in mirth, affirming that vntill thirtie
yeares of age, You are welcome is the best salutation; and from
thence to thréescore, God kéepe you; but after thréescore, it is
best to saie, God spéed you well: for at that time we begin to grow
toward our iournies end, whereon manie a one haue verie good leaue
to go. These two are also noted in vs (as things apperteining to
the firme constitutions of our bodies) that there hath not béene
séene in anie region so manie carcasses of the dead to remaine from
time to time without corruption as in Britaine: and that after
death by slaughter or otherwise, such as remaine vnburied by foure
or fiue daies togither, are easie to be knowne and discerned by
their fréends and kindred; whereas Tacitus and other complaine of
sundrie nations, saieng, that their bodies are "Tam fluidae
substantiae," that within certeine houres the wife shall hardlie
know hir husband, the mother hir sonne, or one fréend another after
their liues be ended. In like sort the comelinesse of our liuing
bodies doo continue from midle age (for the most) euen to the last
gaspe, speciallie in mankind. And albeit that our women through
bearing of children doo after fortie begin to wrinkle apace, yet
are they not commonlie so wretched and hard fauoured to looke vpon
in their age, as the French women, and diuerse of other countries
with whom their men also doo much participate; and thereto be so
often waiward and peeuish, that nothing in maner may content them.

I might here adde somewhat also of the meane stature generallie of
our women, whose beautie commonlie excéedeth the fairest of those
of the maine, their comlinesse of person and good proportion of
limmes, most of theirs that come ouer vnto vs from beyond the seas.
This neuerthelesse I vtterlie mislike in the poorer sort of them,
for the wealthier doo sildome offend herein: that being of themselues
without gouernement, they are so carelesse in the education of
their children (wherein their husbands are also to be blamed) by
means whereof verie manie of them neither fearing God, neither
regarding either maners or obedience, doo oftentimes come to
confusion, which (if anie correction or discipline had béene vsed
toward them in youth) might haue prooued good members of their
common-wealth & countrie, by their good seruice and industrie. I
could make report likewise of the naturall vices and vertues of
all those that are borne within this Iland, but as the full tractation
herof craueth a better head than mine to set foorth the same, so
will I giue place to other men that list to take it in hand. Thus
much therefore of the constitutions of our bodies: and so much may
suffice.




HOW BRITAINE AT THE FIRST GREW TO BE DIUIDED INTO THREE PORTIONS.

CAP. XXI.


After the comming of Brutus into this Iland (which was, as you haue
read in the foresaid treatise, about the yeare of the world, 2850,
or 1217 before the incarnation of Christ, although Goropius after
his maner doo vtterlie denie our historie in this behalfe) he made
a generall surueie of the whole Iland from side to side, by such
means to view and search out not onelie the limits and bounds of
his dominions, but also what commodities this new atchiued conquest
might yéeld vnto his people. Furthermore, finding out at the last
also a conuenable place wherin to erect a citie, he began there
euen the verie same which at this daie is called London, naming it
Trenouanton, in remembrance of old Troie, from whence his ancestors
proceeded, and for which the Romans pronounced afterward Trinobantum,
although the Welshmen doo call it still Trenewith. This citie was
builded (as some write) much about the tenth yeare of his reigne,
so that he liued not aboue fiftéene yeares after he had finished
the same. But of the rest of his other acts attempted and doone,
before or after the erection of this citie, I find no certeine
report, more than that when he had reigned in this Iland after his
arriuall by the space of foure and twentie yeares, he finished his
daies at Trenouanton aforesaid, being in his yoong and florishing
age, where his carcase was honourablie interred. As for the maner
of his death, I find as yet no mention thereof among such writers
as are extant; I meane whether it grew vnto him by defect of nature,
or force of gréeuous wounds receiued in his warres against such as
withstood him from time to time in this Iland, and therefore I can
saie nothing of that matter. Herein onelie all agree, that during
the time of his languishing paines, he made a disposition of his
whole kingdome, diuiding it into three parts or portions, according
to the number of his sonnes then liuing, whereof the eldest excéeded
not eight and twentie yeares of age, as my coniecture giueth me.

[Sidenote: Locrine.]
To the eldest therefore, whose name was Locrine, he gaue the greatest
[Sidenote: Lhoegria.]
and best region of all the rest, which of him to this daie is called
Lhoegres among the Britons, but in our language England: of such
English Saxons as made conquest of the same. This portion also is
included on the south with the British sea, on the est with the
Germane Ocean, on the north with the Humber, and on the west with
the Irish sea, and the riuers Dee and Sauerne, whereof in the
generall description of this Iland I haue spoken more at large. To
[Sidenote: Camber.]
[Sidenote: Cambri.]
Camber his second sonne he assigned all that lieth beyond the
Sauerne and Dée, toward the west (which parcell in these daies
conteineth Southwales and Northwales) with sundrie Ilands adiacent
to the same, the whole being in maner cut off and separated from
England or Lhoegria by the said streams, wherby it séemeth also a
peninsula or by-land, if you respect the small hillie portion of
ground that lieth indifferentlie betweene their maine courses, or
such branches (at the least) as run and fall into them. The Welshmen
or Britons call it by the ancient name still vnto this day, but we
Englishmen terme it Wales: which denomination we haue from the
Saxons, who in time past did vse the word Walsh in such sort as we
doo Strange: for as we call all those strangers that are not of
our nation, so did they name them Walsh which were not of their
countrie.

[Sidenote: Albanact.]
The third and last part of the Iland he allotted vnto Albanact his
youngest sonne (for he had but three in all, as I haue said before)
whose portion séemed for circuit to be more large than that of
Camber, and in maner equall in greatnesse with the dominions of
Locrinus. But if you haue regard to the seuerall commodities that
are to be reaped by each, you shall find them to be not much
discrepant or differing one from another: for whatsoeuer the first
& second haue in plentie of corne, fine grasse, and large cattell,
this latter wanteth not in excéeding store of fish, rich mettall,
quarries of stone, and abundance of wild foule: so that in mine
opinion, there could not be a more equall partition than this made
by Brute, and after the aforesaid maner. This later parcell at the
first, tooke the name of Albanactus, who called it Albania. But
now a small portion onelie of the region (being vnder the regiment
of a duke) reteineth the said denomination, the rest being called
Scotland, of certeine Scots that came ouer from Ireland to inhabit
[Sidenote: Albania.]
in those quarters. It is diuided from Lhoegres also by the Solue
and the Firth, yet some doo note the Humber; so that Albania (as
Brute left it) conteined all the north part of the Iland that is
to be found beyond the aforesaid streame, vnto the point of Cathnesse.

To conclude, Brute hauing diuided his kingdome after this maner,
and therein contenting himselfe as it were with the generall title
of the whole, it was not long after yer he ended his life; and
being solemnelie interred at his new citie by his thrée children,
they parted each from other, and tooke possession of their prouinces.
[Sidenote: Locrine king also of Scotland.]
But Scotland after two yeares fell againe into the hands of Locrinus
as to the chiefe lord, by the death of his brother Albanact, who
was slaine by Humber king of the Scithians, and left none issue
behind him to succéed him in that kingdome.




AFTER WHAT MANER THE SOUEREIGNTIE OF THIS ILE DOOTH REMAINE TO THE
PRINCES OF LHOEGRES OR KINGS OF ENGLAND.

CHAP. XXII.


[Sidenote: The Scots alwaies desirous to shake off the English subiection,
have often made cruell & odious attempts so to doo, but in vaine.]
It is possible that some of the Scotish nation, reading the former
chapter, will take offence with me for meaning that the principalitie
of the north parts of this Ile hath alwais belonged to the kings
of Lhoegres. For whose more ample satisfaction in this behalfe, I
will here set downe a discourse thereof at large, written by diuerse,
and now finallie brought into one treatise, sufficient (as I thinke)
to satisfie the reasonable, although not halfe enough peraduenture
to content a wrangling mind, sith there is (or at the leastwise
hath beene) nothing more odious among some, than to heare that the
king of England hath ought to doo in Scotland.

How their historiographers haue attempted to shape manie coloured
excuses to auoid so manifest a title, all men may see that read
their bookes indifferentlie, wherevnto I referre them. For my part
there is little or nothing of mine herein, more than onelie the
collection and abridgement of a number of fragments togither,
wherein chéeflie I haue vsed the helpe of Nicholas Adams a lawier,
who wrote thereof (of set purpose) to king Edward the sixt, as
Leland did the like to king Henrie the eight, Iohn Harding vnto
Edward the fourth; beside thrée other, whereof the first dedicated
his treatise to Henrie the fourth, the second to Edward the third,
and the third to Edward the first, as their writings yet extant
doo abundantlie beare witnesse. The title also that Leland giueth
his booke, which I haue had written with his owne hand, beginneth
in this maner: "These remembrances following are found in chronicles
authorised, remaining in diuerse monasteries both in England and
Scotland, by which it is euidentlie knowne and shewed, that the
kings of England haue had, and now ought to haue the souereigntie
ouer all Scotland, with the homage and fealtie of the kings there
reigning from time to time, &c." Herevnto you haue heard alreadie,
what diuision Brute made of this Iland not long before his death,
wherof ech of his children, so soone as he was interred, tooke
seisure and possession. Howbeit, after two yeares it happened that
Albanact was slaine, wherevpon Locrinus and Camber raising their
powers, reuenged his death: and finallie the said Locrinus made an
entrance vpon Albania, seized it into his owne hands (as excheated
wholie vnto himselfe) without yéelding anie part thereof vnto his
brother Camber, who made no claime nor title vnto anie portion of
the same. Hereby then (saith Adams) it euidentlie appeareth, that
the entire seigniorie ouer Albania consisted in Locrinus, according
to which example like law among brethren euer since hath continued,
in preferring the eldest brother to the onelie benefit of the
collaterall ascension from the yongest, as well in Scotland as in
England vnto this daie.

Ebranke the lineall heire from the bodie of this Locrine, that is
to saie, the sonne of Mempris, sonne of Madan, sonne of the same
Locrine builded in Albania the castell of Maidens, now called
Edenborough (so called of Aidan somtime king of Scotland, but at
the first named Cair Minid Agnes. 1. the castell on mount Agnes,
and the castell of virgins) and the castell of Alcluith or Alclude,
now called Dunbriton, as the Scotish Hector Boetius confesseth:
whereby it most euidentlie appeareth, that our Ebranke was then
thereof seized. This Ebranke reigned in the said state ouer them
a long time; after whose death Albania (as annexed to the empire
of Britaine) descended to the onelie king of Britons, vntill the
time of the two sisters sonnes, Morgan and Conedage, lineall heires
from the said Ebranke, who brotherlie at the first diuided the
realme between them; so that Morgan had Lhoegres, and Conedage had
Albania. But shortlie after Morgan the elder brother, pondering in
his head the loue of his brother with the affection to a kingdome,
excluded nature, and gaue place to ambition, and therevpon denouncing
warre, death miserablie ended his life (as the reward of his vntruth)
whereby Conedage obteined the whole empire of all Britaine: in
which state he remained during his naturall life.

From him the same lineallie descended to the onelie king of Britons,
vntill (and after) the reigne of Gorbodian, who had issue two
sonnes, Ferrex, and Porrex. This Porrex, requiring like diuision
of the land, affirming the former partitions to be rather of law
than fauor, was by the hands of his elder brother (best loued of
queene mother) both of his life and hoped kingdome béereaued at
once. Wherevpon their vnnaturall mother, vsing hir naturall malice
for the death of hir one sonne (without regard of the loosing of
both) miserablie slue the other in his bed mistrusting no such
treason.

Cloten, by all writers, as well Scotish as other, was the next
inheritour to the whole empire: but lacking power (the onelie
meane in those daies to obteine right) he was contented to diuide
the same among foure of his kinsmen; so that Scater had Albania.
But after the death of this Cloten, his sonne Dunwallo Mulmutius
made warre vpon these foure kings, and at last ouercame them, and
so recouered the whole dominion. In token of which victorie, he
caused himselfe to be crowned with a crowne of gold, the verie
first of that mettall (if anie at all were before in vse) that was
worne among the kings of this nation. This Dunwallo erected temples,
wherein the people should assemble for praier; to which temples he
gaue benefit of sanctuarie. He made the law for wager of battell,
in cases of murder and felonie, whereby a théefe that liued and
made his art of fighting, should for his purgation fight with the
true man whom he had robbed, beléeuing assuredlie, that the gods
(for then they supposed manie) would by miracle assigne victorie
to none but the innocent partie. Certes the priuileges of this
law, and benefit of the latter, as well in Scotland as in England,
be inioied to this daie, few causes by late positiue laws among vs
excepted, wherin the benefit of wager of battell is restreined. By
which obedience to his lawes, it dooth manifestlie appéere, that
this Dunwallo was then seized of Albania, now called Scotland. This
Dunwallo reigned in this estate ouer them manie yeares..

Beline and Brenne the sonnes also of Dunwallo, did after their
fathers death fauourablie diuide the land betweene them; so that
Beline had Lhoegres, & Brenne had Albania: but for that this Brenne
(a subiect) without the consent of his elder brother and lord,
aduentured to marrie with the daughter of the king of Denmarke;
Beline seized Albania into his owne hands, and thervpon caused the
notable waies priuileged by Dunwallons lawes to be newlie wrought
by mens hands, which for the length extended from the further part
of Cornewall, vnto the sea by north Cathnesse in Scotland. In like
sort to and for the better maintenance of religion in those daies,
he constituted ministers called archflamines, in sundrie places of
this Iland (who in their seuerall functions resembled the bishops
of our times) the one of which remained at Ebranke now called Yorke,
and the whole region Caerbrantonica (whereof Ptolomie also speaketh
but not without wresting of the name) whose power extended to the
vttermost bounds of Albania, wherby likewise appeareth that it was
then within his owne dominion. After his death the whole Ile was
inioied by the onelie kings of Britaine, vntill the time of Vigenius
& Peridurus lineall heires from the said Beline, who fauourablie
made partition, so that Vigenius had all the land from Humber by
south, and Peridurus from thence northwards all Albania, &c. This
Vigenius died, and Peridurus suruiued, and thereby obteined the
whole, from whom the same quietlie descended, and was by his
posteritie accordinglie inioied, vntill the reigne of Coell the
first of that name. In his time an obscure nation (by most writers
supposed Scithians) passed by seas from Ireland, and arriued in
that part of Britaine called Albania: against whome this Coell
assembled his power, and being entred Albania to expell them, one
Fergus in the night disguised, entered the tent of this Coell, and
in his bed traitorouslie slue him.

This Fergus was therfore, in reward of his great prowesse, made
there king, whervpon they sat downe in that part, with their wiues
and children, and called it Scotland, and themselues Scots: from
the beginning of the world, foure thousand six hundred and seauentéene
yeares after the Scotish accompt, which by iust computation and
confession of all their owne writers, is six hundred yeares lacking
ten, after that Brutus had reigned ouer the whole Iland, the same
land being inioied by him and his posteritie before their comming,
during two and fiftie descents of the kings of Britaine, which is
a large prescription. Certes this intrusion into a land so manie
hundred yeares before inhabited, and by so manie descents of kings
quietlie inioied, is the best title that all their owne writers
can alledge for them. But to proceed. Fergus herevpon immediatlie
did diuide Albania also among his capteins and their souldiers:
whereby it most euidentlie appeareth, that there were no people of
that nation inhabiting there before, in proofe whereof the same
partition shall follow.

The lands of Cathnes lieng against Orkneie, betwéene Dummesbeie
[Sidenote: Out of Hector Boecius lib. 1.]
and the water of Thane, was giuen vnto one Cornath, a capteine and
his people. The lands betwéene the water of Thane & Nes, now called
Rosse, being in bredth from Cromart to the mouth of the water of
Locht, were giuen to Lutorke, another capteine and his people. The
lands betweene Spaie and Nes, from the Almane seas to the Ireland
seas, now called Murraie land, were giuen to one Warroch and his
people. The land of Thalia, now called Boin Ainze, Bogewall, Gariot,
Formartine, and Bowguhan, were giuen to one Thalis and his people.
The lands of Mar Badezenoch, and Lochquhaber, were giuen to Martach
and his people. The lands of Lorne and Kintier, with the hilles
and mounteins thereof, lieng from Mar to the Ireland seas, were
giuen to capteine Nanance and his people. The lands of Athole were
giuen to Atholus, another capteine and his people. The lands of
Strabraun, & Brawdawane lieng west from Dunkell, were giuen to
Creones & Epidithes two capteins. The lands of Argile, were giuen
to Argathelus a capteine. The lands of Linnox & Clidisdale were
allotted to Lolgona a capteine. The lands of Siluria now called
Kile, Carrike & Cuningham, were giuen to Silurth another capteine.
The lands of Brigance now called Gallowaie, were giuen to the
companie called Brigandes, which (as their best men) were appointed
to dwell next the Britons, who afterward expelled the Britons from
Annandale in Albania, whereby it is confessed to be before inhabited
by Britons. The residue of the land now called Scotland, that is
to saie: Meirnis, Angus, Steremond, Gowrie, Strahern, Pirth, Fiffe,
Striueling, Callender, Calderwood, Lougthian, Mers, Teuedale, with
other the Rement Dales, & the Sherifdome, of Berwicke, were then
[Sidenote: Berouicum potiùs à Berubio promontorio.]
enioied by a nation mingled in marriage with the Britons, and in
their obedience, whose capteine called Beringer builded the castell
and towne of Berwicke vpon Twede, & these people were called Picts,
vpon whome by the death of this Coell, these Scots had opportunitie
to vse wars, whereof they ceased not, vntill such time as it pleased
God to appoint another Coell king of Britons, against whose name,
albeit they hoped for a like victorie to the first, yet he preuailed
and ceased not his warre, vntill these Scots were vtterlie expelled
out of all the bounds of Britaine, in which they neuer dared to
reenter, vntill the troublesome reigne of Sisilt king of Britons,
which was the twelft king after this Coell. During all which time
the countrie was reinhabited by the Britons. But then the Scots
turning the ciuill discord of this realme, betweene this Sisilt
and his brother Blede to their best aduantage, arriued againe in
Albania, & there made one Reuther their king.

Vpon this their new arriuall, new warre was made vpon them by this
Sisilt king of Britons, in which warre Reuther their new king died,
and Thereus succéeded, against whome the warre of Britons ceased
not, vntill he freelie submitted himselfe to the said Sicill king
of Britons at Ebranke, that is Yorke, where shortlie after the
tenth yeare of his reigne he died. Finnane brother of Josine
succeeded by their election to the kingdome of Scots, who shortlie
after (compelled by the warres of the same Sicill) declared himselfe
subiect, and for the better assurance of his faith and obeisance
to the king of Britons, deliuered his sonne Durstus into the hands
of this Sicill: who fantasieng the child, and hoping by his owne
succession to alter their subtiltie (I will not saie duplicitie
saith Adams) married him in the end to Agasia his owne daughter.

[Sidenote: Durstus.]
This Durstus was their next king; but for that he had married a
Briton woman, (though indeed she was a kings daughter) the Scots
hated him for the same cause, for which they ought rather to haue
liked him the better, and therefore not onelie traitorouslie slue
him; but further to declare the end of their malice, disinherited
(as much as in them was) the issues of the same Durstus and Agasia.
Herevpon new warre sproong betwéene them and vs, which ceased not
vntill they were contented to receiue Edeir to their king, the next
in bloud then liuing, descended from Durstus and Agasia, and thereby
the bloud of the Britons, of the part of the mother, was restored
to the crowne of Albania: so that nature, whose law is immutable,
caused this bond of loue to hold. For shortlie after this Edeir
attended vpon Cassibelane king of Britons, for the repulse of Iulius
Caesar, as their owne author Boetius confesseth, who commanded the
same as his subiect. But Iulius Caesar, after his second arriuall,
by treason of Androgeus preuailed against the Britons, and therevpon
pursued this Edeir into Scotland; and (as himselfe saith in his
commentaries) subdued all the Ile of Britaine. Which though the
liuing Scots denie it, their dead writers confesse that he came
beyond Calender wood, and cast downe Camelon, the principall citie
of the Picts. And in token of this victorie, not farre from Carron,
builded a round temple of stone, which remained in some perfection
vntill the reigne of our king Edward called the first after the
conquest, by whome it was subuerted: but the monument thereof
remaineth to this daie.

[Sidenote: Marius.]
Marius the sonne of Aruiragus, being king of all Britaine, in his
time one Roderike a Scithian, with a great rabble of néedie
souldiours, came to the water of Frith in Scotland, which is an
arme of the sea, diuiding Pentland from Fiffe: against whome this
Marius assembled a power, by which he slue this Rodericke, and
discomfited his people in Westmerland: but to those that remained
aliue, he gaue the countrie of Cathnesse in Scotland, which prooueth
it to be within his owne dominion.

[Sidenote: Coelus.]
Coell the sonne of this Marius had issue Lucius, counted the first
Christian king of this nation: he conuerted the three archflamines
of this land into bishopriks, and ordeined bishops vnto ech of
them. The first remained at London, and his power extended from
the furthest part of Cornewall to Humber water. The second dwelled
at Yorke, and his power stretched from Humber to the furthest part
of all Scotland. The third aboded at Caerleon vpon the riuer of
Wiske in Glamorgan in Wales, & his power extended from Seuerne
through all Wales. Some write that he made but two, and turned
their names to archbishops, the one to remaine at Canturburie, the
other at Yorke: yet they confesse that he of Yorke had iurisdiction
through all Scotland: either of which is sufficient to prooue
Scotland to be then vnder his dominion.

[Sidenote: Seuerus.]
Seuerus, by birth a Romane, but in bloud a Briton (as some thinke)
and the lineall heire of the bodie of Androgeus sonne of Lud, &
nephue of Cassibelane, was shortlie after emperour & king of Britons,
in whose time the people to whom his ancester Marius gaue the land
of Cathnesse in Scotland, conspired with the Scots, & receiued them
from the Iles into Scotland. But herevpon this Seuerus came into
Scotland, and méeting with their faith and false harts togither,
droue them all out of the maine land into Iles, the vttermost bounds
of all great Britaine. But notwithstanding this glorious victorie,
the Britons considering their seruitude to the Romans, imposed by
treason of Androgeus, ancestor to this Seuerus, began to hate him,
whome yet they had no time to loue, and who in their defense and
suertie had slaine of the Scots and their confederats in one battell
thirtie thousand: but such was the consideration of the common sort
in those daies, whose malice no time could diminish, nor iust desert
appease.

[Sidenote: Bassianus.]
Antoninus Bassianus borne of a Briton woman, and Geta borne by a
Romane woman, were the sonnes of this Seuerus, who after the death
of their father, by the contrarie voices of their people, contended
for the crowne. Few Britons held with Bassianus, fewer Romans with
Geta: but the greater number with neither of both. In the end Geta
was slaine, and Bassianus remained emperour, against whom Carautius
rebelled, who gaue vnto the Scots, Picts, and Scithians, the countrie
of Cathnesse in Scotland, which they afterward inhabited, whereby
his seison thereof appeareth.

[Sidenote: Coill.]
Coill, descended of the bloud of the ancient kings of this land,
was shortlie after king of the Britons, whose onelie daughter and
heire called Helen, was married vnto Constantius a Romane, who
daunted the rebellion of all parts of great Britaine; and after
the death of this Coill was in the right of his wife king thereof,
and reigned in his state ouer them thirtéene or fourtéene yeares.

[Sidenote: Constantine.]
Constantine the sonne of this Constance, and Helen, was next king
of Britons, by the right of his mother, who passing to Rome to
receiue the empire thereof, deputed one Octauius king of Wales,
and duke of the Gewisses (which some expound to be afterward called
west Saxons) to haue the gouernment of this dominion. But abusing
the kings innocent goodnesse, this Octauius defrauded this trust,
and tooke vpon him the crowne. For which traitorie albeit he was
once vanquished by Leonine Traheron, great vncle to Constantine:
yet after the death of this Traheron, he preuailed againe, and
vsurped ouer all Britaine. Constantine being now emperor sent
Maximius his kinsman hither (in processe of time) to destroie the
same Octauius, who in singular battell discomfited him. Wherevpon
this Maximius, as well by the consent of great Constantine, as by
the election of all the Britons, for that he was a Briton in bloud,
was made king or rather vice-gerent of Britaine. This Maximius made
warre vpon the Scots and Scithians within Britaine, and ceassed
not vntill he had slaine Eugenius their king, and expelled and
driuen them out of the whole limits and bounds of Britaine. Finallie
he inhabited all Scotland with Britons, no man, woman, nor child
of the Scotish nation suffered to remaine within it, which (as
their Hector Boetius saith) was for their rebellion; and rebellion
properlie could it not be, except they had béene subiects. He
suffered the Picts also to remaine his subiects, who made solemne
othes to him, neuer after to erect anie peculiar king of their owne
nation, but to remaine vnder the old empire of the onelie king of
Britaine. I had once an epistle by Leland exemplified (as he saith)
out of a verie ancient record which beareth title of Helena vnto
hir sonne Constantine, and entreth after this manner; "Domino semper
Augusto filio Constantino, mater Helena semper Augusta, &c." And
now it repenteth me that I did not exemplifie and conueigh it into
this treatise whilest I had his books. For thereby I might haue
had great light for the estate of this present discourse: but as
then I had no mind to haue trauelled in this matter; neuerthelesse,
if hereafter it come againe to light I would wish it were reserued.
It followeth on also in this maner (as it is translated out of the
Gréeke) "Veritatem sapientis animus non recusat, nec fides recta
aliquando patitur quamcunque iacturam, &c."

About fiue and fourtie yeares after this (which was long time after
the death of this Maximius) with the helpe of Gouan or Gonan and
Melga, the Scots newlie arriued in Albania, and there created one
Fergus the second of that name to be there king. But bicause they
were before banished the continent land, they crowned him king on
their aduenture in Argile, in the fatall chaire of marble, the
yéere of our Lord, foure hundred and two and twentie, as they
themselues doo write.

[Sidenote: Maximian.]
Maximian sonne of Leonine Traheron, brother to king Coill, and
vncle to Helene, was by lineall succession next king of Britons:
but to appease the malice of Dionothus king of Wales, who also
claimed the kingdome, he married Othilia eldest daughter of Dionothus,
and afterwards assembled a great power of Britons, and entered
Albania, inuading Gallowaie, Mers, Annandale, Pentland, Carrike,
Kill, and Cuningham, and in battell slue both this Fergus then king
of Scots, and Durstus the king of Picts, and exiled all their people
out of the continent land: wherevpon the few number of Scots then
remaining a liue, went to Argile, and there made Eugenius their
king. When this Maximian had thus obteined quietnesse in Britaine,
he departed with his cousine Conan Meridocke into Armorica, where
they subdued the king, and depopulated the countrie, which he gaue
to Conan his cousine, to be afterward inhabited by Britons, by the
name of Britaine the lesse: and hereof this realme tooke name of
Britaine the great, which name by consent of forren writers it
keepeth vnto this daie.

After the death of Maximian, dissention being mooued betweene the
nobles of Britaine, the Scots swarmed togither againe, and came to
the wall of Adrian, where (this realme being diuided in manie
factions) they ouercame one. And herevpon their Hector Boetius (as
an hen that for laieng of one eg, will make a great cakeling)
solemnlie triumphing for a conquest before the victorie, alledgeth
that hereby the Britons were made tributaries to the Scots, and
yet he confesseth that they won no more land, by that supposed
conquest, but the same portion betwéene them and Humber, which in
the old partitions before was annexed to Albania. It is hard to be
beléeued, that such a broken nation as the Scots at that time were,
returning from banishment within foure yeares before, and since in
battell loosing both their kings, and the great number of their
best men, to be thus able to make a conquest of great Britaine;
and verie vnlikelie if they had conquered it, they would haue left
the hot sunne of the south parts, to dwell in the cold snow in
Scotland. Incredible it is, that if they had conquered it, they
would not haue deputed officers in it, as in cases of conquest
behooueth. And it is beyond all beliefe, that great Britaine, or
any other countrie, should be woon without the comming of anie
enimie into it: as they did not, but taried finallie at the same
wall of Adrian, whereof I spake before.

But what need I speake of these defenses, when the same Boecius
scantlie trusteth his owne beliefe in this tale. For he saieth that
Galfride, and sundrie other authentike writers, diuerslie varie
from this part of his storie, wherein his owne thought accuseth
his conscience of vntruth: herein also he further forgetting how
it behooueth a lier to be mindfull of his assertion, in the fourth
chapter next following, wholie bewraieth himselfe, saieng that the
confederat kings of Scots and Picts, vpon ciuill warres betwéene
the Britons (which then followed) hoped shortlie to inioie all the
land of great Britaine, from beyond Humber vnto the fresh sea,
which hope had bene vaine, and not lesse than void, if it had béene
their owne by anie conquest before.

Constantine of Britaine, descended from Conan king thereof, cousine
of Brutes bloud to this Maximian, and his neerest heire was next
king of Britaine; he immediatlie pursued the Scots with wars, and
shortlie in battell slue their king Dongard, in the first yeare of
his reigne, whereby he recouered Scotland out of their hands, and
tooke all the holdes thereof into his owne possessions. Vortiger
shortlie after obteined the crowne of Britaine, against whom the
Scots newlie rebelled: for the repressing whereof (mistrusting the
Britons to hate him for sundrie causes, as one that to auoid the
smoke dooth oft fall into the fire) receiued Hengest a Saxon, and
a great number of his countriemen, with whom and a few Britons he
entred Scotland & ouercame them, wherevpon they tooke the Iles,
which are their common refuge. He gaue also much of Scotland, as
Gallowaie, Pentland, Mers and Annandale, with sundrie other lands
to this Hengest and his people to inhabit, which they did accordinglie
inioie. But when this Hengest in processe of time thirsted after
the whole kingdome of the south, he was banished, and yet afterward
being restored, he conspired with the Scots against Aurilambrose
the sonne of Constantine, the iust inheritor of this whole dominion.
But his vntruth and theirs were both recompensed togither, for he
[Sidenote: Some thinke the Seimors to come from this man by lineall
descent and I suppose no lesse.]
was taken prisoner by Eldulph de Samor a noble man of Britaine,
and his head for his traitorie striken off at the commandement of
Aurilambrose. In the field the Scots were vanquished: but Octa the
sonne of Hengest was receiued to mercie, to whome and his people
this Aurilambrose gaue the countrie of Gallowaie in Scotland, for
which they became his subiects. And hereby appeareth that Scotland
was then againe reduced into his hands.

Vter called also Pendragon, brother to Aurilambrose was next king
of the Britons, against whome, these sworne Saxons now foresworne
subiects (confederate with the Scots) newlie rebelled: but by his
power assembled against them in Gallowaie in Scotland, they were
discomfited, & Albania againe recouered vnto his subiection. Arthur
the sonne of this Vter, begotten before the mariage, but lawfullie
borne in matrimonie, succéeded next to the crowne of great Britaine;
whose noble acts, though manie vulgar fables haue rather stained
than commended: yet all the Scotish writers confesse, that he
subdued great Britaine, and made it tributarie to him, and ouercame
the Saxons then scattered as far as Cathnesse in Scotland: and in
all these wars against them, he had the seruice and obeisance of
Scots and Pits. But at the last setting their féet in the guilefull
paths of their predecessors, they rebelled and besieged the citie
of Yorke, Howell king of the lesse Britaine cousine to king Arthur
being therein. But he with an host came thither and discomfited
the Scots, chased them into a marsh, and besieged them there so
long, that they were almost famished: vntill the bishops, abbats,
and men of religion (for as much as they were christened people)
besought him to take them to his mercie and grace, and to grant
them a portion of the same countrie to dwell in vnder euerlasting
subiection. Vpon this he tooke them to his grace, homage and fealtie:
and when they were sworne his subiects and liegemen, he ordeined
his kinsman Anguisan to be their king and gouernour, Vrian king of
Iland, and Murefrence king of Orkeneie. He made an archbishop of
Yorke also, whose authoritie extended through all Scotland.

Finallie, the said Arthur holding his roiall feast at Cairleon,
had there all the kings that were subiects vnto him, among which,
Angusian the said king of Scots did his due seruice and homage, so
long as he was with him for the realme of Scotland, & bare king
Arthurs sword afore him. Malgo shortlie after succéeded in the
whole kingdome of great Britaine, who vpon new resistance made,
subdued Ireland, Iland, the Orchads, Norwaie and Denmarke, and made
Ethelfred a Saxon king of Bernicia, that is, Northumberland,
Louthian, and much other land of Scotland, which Ethelfred by the
sword obteined at the hands of the wilfull inhabitants, and continued
true subiect to this Malgo.

Cadwan succéeded in the kingdome of great Britaine, who in defense
of his subiects the Scots, made warre vpon this Ethelfred, but at
the last they agréed, and Cadwan vpon their rebellion gaue all
Scotland vnto this Ethelfred, which he therevpon subdued and inioied:
but afterward in the reigne of Cadwallo that next succeeded in
great Britaine, he rebelled. Whervpon the same Cadwallo came into
Scotland, and vpon his treason reseised the countrie into his owne
hands, and hauing with him all the vicerois of the Saxons, which
then inhabited here as his subiects, in singular battell he slue
the same Ethelfred with his owne hands.

Oswald was shortlie after by Cadwallos gift made king of Bernicia,
and he as subiect to Cadwallo, and by his commandement discomfited
the Scots and Picts, and subdued all Scotland. Oswie the brother
of this Oswald, was by the like gift of Cadwallo, made next king
of Bernicia, and he by like commandement newlie subdued the Scots
and Picts, and held them in that obeisance to this Cadwallow, during
eight and twentie yeares. Thus Cadwallo reigned in the whole
monarchie of great Britaine, hauing all the seuen kings thereof,
as well Saxons as others his subiects: for albeit the number of
Saxons from time to time greatlie increased, yet were they alwaies
either at the first expelled, or else made tributarie to the onelie
kings of Britons for the time being, as all their owne writers doo
confesse.

Cadwallader was next king of the whole great Britaine, he reigned
twelue yeares ouer all the kings thereof, in great peace and
tranquillitie: and then vpon the lamentable death of his subiects,
which died of sundrie diseases innumerablie, he departed into little
Britaine. His sonne and cousine Iuor and Iue, being expelled out
of England also by the Saxons, went into Wales, where among the
Britons they and their posteritie remained princes. Vpon this great
alteration, and warres being through the whole dominion betwéene
the Britons and Saxons, the Scots thought time to slip the collar
of obedience, and therevpon entred in league with Charles then king
of France, establishing it in this wise.

1 "The iniurie of Englishmen doone to anie of these people, shall
be perpetuallie holden common to them both.

2 "When Frenchmen be inuaded by Englishmen, the Scots shall send
their armie in defense of France, so that they be supported with
monie and vittels by the French.

3 "When Scots be inuaded by Englishmen, the Frenchmen shall come
vpon their owne expenses, to their support and succour.

4 "None of the people shall take peace or truce with Englishmen,
without the aduise of other, &c."

[Sidenote: _Nicholas Adams._]
Manie disputable opinions may be had of warre without the praising
of it, as onelie admittable by inforced necessitie, and to be vsed
for peace sake onelie, where here the Scots sought warre for the
loue of warre onelie. For their league giueth no benefit to
themselues, either in frée traffike of their owne commodities, or
benefit of the French, or other priuilege to the people of both.
What discommoditie riseth by loosing the intercourse and exchange
of our commodities (being in necessaries more aboundant than France)
the Scots féele, and we perfectlie know. What ruine of their townes,
destruction of countries, slaughter of both peoples, haue by reason
of this bloudie league chanced, the histories be lamentable to
read, and horrible among Christian men to be remembred: but God
gaue the increase according to their séed, for as they did hereby
sowe dissention, so did they shortlie after reape a bloudie slaughter
and confusion. For Alpine their king, possessing a light mind that
would be lost with a little wind, hoped by this league shortlie to
subdue all great Britaine, and to that end not onelie rebelled in
his owne kingdome, but also vsurped vpon the kingdome of Picts.
Whervpon Edwine king of England, made one Brudeus king of Picts,
whom he sent into Scotland with a great power, where in battell he
tooke this Alpine king of Scots prisoner, and discomfited his
people. And this Alpine being their king found subiect and rebell,
his head was striken off at a place in Scotland, which thereof is
to this daie called Pasalpine, that is to saie, the head of Alpine.
And this was the first effect of their French league.

Osbright king of England, with Ella his subiect, and a great number
of Britons and Saxons shortlie after, for that the Scots had of
themselues elected a new king, entered Scotland, and ceassed not
his war against them, vntill their king and people fled into the
Iles, with whome at the last vpon their submission, peace was made
in this wise.

The water of Frith shall be march betwéene Scots and Englishmen in
the east parts, and shall be named the Scotish sea.

The water of Cluide to Dunbriton, shall be march in the west parts
betwéene the Scots and Britons. This castell was before called
Alcluide, but now Dunbriton, that is to say, the castle of Britons,
and sometimes it was destroied by the Danes. So the Britons had
all the lands from Sterling to the Ireland seas, and from the water
of Frith & Cluide to Cumber, with all the strengths and commodities
thereof: and the Englishmen had the lands betwéene Sterling and
Northumberland. Thus was Cluide march betwéene the Scots and the
Britons on the one side, and the water of Frith named the Scotish
sea, march betwéene them and Englishmen on the other side, and
Sterling common march to three people, Britons, Englishmen, and
Scots, howbeit king Osbright had the castle of Stirling, where
first he caused to be coined Sterling monie. The Englishmen also
builded a bridge of stone, for passage ouer the water of Frith, in
the middest whereof they made a crosse, vnder which were written
these verses:

  I am free march, as passengers may ken,
  To Scots, to Britons, and Englishmen.

Not manie yeares after this, Hinguar and Hubba, two Danes, with a
great number of people, arriued in Scotland, and slue Constantine,
whom Osbright had before made king: wherevpon Edulfe or Ethelwulfe,
then king of England, assembled his power against Hinguar and Hubba,
and in one battell slue them both; but such of their people as
would remaine and become christians, he suffered to tarie: the rest
he banished or put to death, &c.

This Ethelwulfe granted the Peter pence, of which albeit Peter &
Paule had little need and lesse right: yet the paiment thereof
continued in this realme euer after vntill now of late yeares. But
the Scots euer since vnto this daie haue, and yet doo paie it, by
reason of that grant, which prooueth them to be then vnder his
obeisance.

Alured or Alfred succéeded in the kingdome of England, and reigned
noblie ouer the whole monarchie of great Britaine: he made lawes,
that persons excommunicated should be disabled to sue or claime
anie propertie; which law Gregour, whome this Alured had made king
of Scots, obeied; and the same law as well in Scotland as in England
is holden to this daie, which also prooueth him to be high lord of
Scotland.

This Alured constreined Gregour king of Scots also to breake the
league with France, for generallie he concluded with him, and serued
him in all his warres, as well against Danes as others, not reseruing
or making anie exception of the former league with France.

The said Alured, after the death of Gregour, had the like seruice
and obeisance of Donald king of Scots with fiue thousand horssemen,
against one Gurmond a Dane that then infested the realme, and this
Donald died in this faith and obeisance with Alured.

Edward the first of that name called Chifod sonne of this Alured
succéeded his father, and was the next king of England: against
whome Sithrijc a Dane and the Scots conspired; but they were subdued,
and Constantine their king brought to obeisance. He held the realme
of Scotland also of king Edward, and this dooth Marian their owne
countrieman a Scot confesse: beside Roger Houeden, and William of
Malmesberie.

In the yeare of our Lord 922, the same king Edward was president
and gouernour of all the people of England, Cumberland, Scots,
Danes, and Britons.

King Athelstane in like sort conquered Scotland, and as he laie in
his tents beside Yorke, whilest the warres lasted, the king of
Scots feined himselfe to be a minstrell, and harped before him
onelie to espie his ordinance and his people. But being (as their
writers confesse) corrupted with monie, he sold his faith and false
heart together to the Danes, and aided them against king Athelstane
at sundrie times. Howbeit he met with all their vntruthes at
Broningfield in the west countrie, as is mentioned in the ninth
chapter of the first booke of this description, where he discomfited
the Danes, and slue Malcolme deputie in that behalfe to the king
of Scots: in which battell the Scots confesse themselues to haue
lost more people than were remembred in anie age before. Then
Athelstane following his good lucke, went throughout all Scotland
and wholie subdued it, and being in possession thereof, gaue land
there lieng in Annandale by his deed, the copie wherof dooth follow:

"I king Athelstane, giues vnto Paulam, Oddam and Roddam, als good
and als faire, as euer they mine were and thereto witnesse Mauld
my wife."

By which course words, not onelie appeareth the plaine simplicitie
of mens dooings in those daies: but also a full proofe that he was
then seized of Scotland. At the last also he receiued homage of
Malcolme king of Scots: but for that he could not be restored to
his whole kingdome, he entered into religion, and there shortlie
after died.

Then Athelstane, for his better assurance of that countrie there
after, thought it best to haue two stringes to the bowe of their
obedience, and therefore not onelie constituted one Malcolme to be
their king, but also appointed one Indulph sonne of Constantine
the third, to be called prince of Scotland, to whome he gaue much
of Scotland: and for this Malcolme did homage to Athelstane.

Edmund brother of Athelstane succéeded next king of England, to
whome this Indulph then king of Scots not onelie did homage, but
also serued him with ten thousand Scots, for the expulsion of the
Danes out of the realme of England.

[Sidenote: Some referre this to an Edward.]
Edred or Eldred brother to this Edmund succéeded next king of
England: he not onelie receiued the homage of Irise then king of
Scots, but also the homage of all the barons of Scotland.

Edgar the sonne of Edmund, brother of Athelstane, being now of full
age, was next king of England: he reigned onelie ouer the whole
monarchie of Britaine, and receiued homage of Keneth king of Scots
for the kingdome of Scotland, and made Malcolme prince thereof.

This Edgar gaue vnto the same Keneth the countrie of Louthian in
Scotland, which was before seized into the hands of Osbright king
of England for their rebellion, as is before declared. He inioined
Keneth their said king also once in euerie yéere at certeine
principall feasts (whereat the king did vse to weare his crowne)
to repaire vnto him into England for the making of lawes: which in
those daies was doone by the noble men or péeres according to the
order of France at this daie. He allowed also sundrie lodgings in
England, to him and his successours, whereat to lie, and refresh
themselues in their iourneies, whensoeuer they should come vp to
doo their homages: and finallie a péece of ground lieng beside the
new palace of Westminster, vpon which this Keneth builded a house,
that by him and his posteritie was inioied vntill the reigne of
king Henrie the second. In whose time, vpon the rebellion of William
king of Scots, it was resumed into the king of Englands hand. The
house is decaied, but the ground where it stood is called Scotland
to this daie.

[Sidenote: Lawfull age and wardship of heires.]
Moreouer, Edgar made this law, that no man should succéed to his
patrimonie or inheritance holden by knights seruice, vntill he
accomplished the age of one and twentie yéeres: because by intendment
vnder that age, he should not be able in person to serue his king
and countrie according to the tenor of his deed, and the condition
of his purchase. This law was receiued by the same Keneth in
Scotland; and as well there as in England is obserued to this daie:
which prooueth also that Scotland was then vnder his obeisance.

In the yeere of our Lord 974, Kinald king of Scots, and Malcolme
king of Cumberland, Macon king of Man and the Iles, Duuenall king
of Southwales, Siferth and Howell kings of the rest of Wales, Jacob
or James of Gallowaie, & Jukill of Westmerland did homage to king
Edgar at Chester. And on the morrow going by water to the monasterie
of saint Iohns to seruice, and returning home againe: the said
Edgar sitting in a barge, and stirring the same vpon the water of
Dée, made the said kings to row the barge, saieng that his successors
might well be ioifull to haue the prerogatiue of so great honour,
and the superioritie of so manie mightie princes to be subiect vnto
their monarchie.

Edward, the sonne of this Edgar, was next king of England, in whose
time this Keneth king of Scots caused Malcolme king of Scotland to
be poisoned. Wherevpon king Edward made warre against him, which
ceased not vntill this Keneth submitted himselfe, and offered to
receiue him for prince of Scotland, whome king Edward would appoint.
Herevpon king Edward proclamed one Malcolme to be prince of Scotland,
who immediatlie came into England, and there did homage vnto the
same king Edward.

Etheldred, brother of this Edward succeeded next ouer England,
against whome Swaine king of Denmarke conspired with this last
Malcolme then king of Scots. But shortlie after, this Malcolme
sorrowfullie submitted himselfe into the defense of Etheldred: who
considering how that which could not be amended, must onelie be
repented, benignlie receiued him. By helpe of whose seruice at last
Etheldred recouered his realme againe out of the hands of Swaine,
and reigned ouer the whole monarchie eight and thirtie yéeres.

Edmund surnamed Ironside, sonne of this Etheldred, was next king
of England, in whose time Canutus a Dane inuaded the realme with
much crueltie. But at the last he married with Emme sometime wife
vnto Etheldred and mother of this Edmund. Which Emme, as arbitratrix
betweene hir naturall loue to the one, and matrimoniall dutie to
the other, procured such amitie betwéene them in the end, that
Edmund was contented to diuide the realme with Canutus: and keeping
to himselfe all England on this side Humber, gaue all the rest
beyond Humber, with the seigniorie of Scotland to this Canutus.
Wherevpon Malcolme then king of Scots (after a little accustomable
resistance) did homage to the same Canutus for the kingdome of
Scotland. Thus the said Canutus held the same ouer of this Edmund
king of England by the like seruices, so long as they liued togither.
This Canutus in memorie of this victorie, and glorie of his seigniorie
ouer the Scots, commanded Malcolme their king to build a church in
Buchquhan in Scotland, (where a field betweene him and them was
fought) to be dedicated to Olauus patrone of Norwaie and Denmarke,
which church was by the same Malcolme accordinglie performed.

Edward called the Confessour, sonne of Etheldred, and brother to
Edmund Ironside, was afterward king of England: he tooke from
Malcolme king of Scots his life and his kingdome, and made Malcolme
sonne to the king of Cumberland and Northumberland king of Scots,
who did him homage and fealtie.

This Edward perused the old lawes of the realme, and somewhat added
to some of them: as to the law of Edgar for the wardship of the
lands vntill the heire should accomplish the age of one and twentie
yeeres. He added, that the marriage of such heire should also belong
[Sidenote: To whome the marriage of the ward perteineth.]
to the lord of whom the same land was holden. Also, that euerie
woman marrieng a freeman, should (notwithstanding she had no children
by that husband) enioie the third part of his inheritance during
hir life: with manie other lawes which the same Malcolme king of
Scots obeied, and which as well by them in Scotland, as by vs in
England be obserued to this day, and directlie prooueth the whole
to be then vnder his obeisance.

By reason of this law, Malcolme the sonne of Duncane next inheritor
to the crowne of Scotland, being within age, was by the nobles of
Scotland deliuered as ward to the custodie also of king Edward.
During whose minoritie, one Makebeth a Scot traitorouslie vsurped
the crowne of Scotland. Against whome the said Edward made warre,
in which the said Mackbeth was ouercome and slaine. Wherevpon the
said Malcolme was crowned king of Scots at Scone, in the eight
yeere of the reigne of king Edward aforesaid. This Malcolme also
by tenor of the said new law of wardship, was married vnto Margaret
the daughter of Edward sonne of Edmund Ironside and Agatha, by the
disposition of the same king Edward, and at his full age did homage
to this king Edward the Confessour for the kingdome of Scotland.

[Sidenote: Edward the Confessour.]
Moreouer, Edward of England, hauing no issue of his bodie, and
mistrusting that Harald the son of Goodwine, descended of the
daughter of Harald Harefoot the Dane, would vsurpe the crowne, if
he should leaue it to his cousine Edgar Eatling (being then within
age) and partlie by the petition of his subiects, who before had
sworne neuer to receiue anie kings ouer them of the Danish nation,
did by his substantiall will in writing (as all our clergie writers
affirme) demise the crowne of great Britaine vnto William Bastard,
then duke of Normandie, and to his heires, constituting him his
heire testamentarie. Also there was proximitie in bloud betwéene
them: for Emme daughter of Richard duke of Normandie was wife vnto
Etheldred, on whom he begat Alured and this Edward: and this William
was son of Robert sonne of Richard, brother of the whole bloud to
the same Emme. Whereby appeareth that this William was heire by
title, and not by conquest, albeit that partlie to extinguish the
mistrust of other titles, and partlie for the glorie of his victorie,
he chalenged in the end, the name of a conquerour, and hath béene
so written euer since the time of his arriuall.

[Sidenote: William Bastard.]
Furthermore, this William, called the Bastard and the Conquerour,
supposed not his conquest perfect till he had likewise subdued the
Scots. Wherfore to bring the Scots to iust obeisance after his
coronation, as heire testamentarie to Edward the Confessour; he
entred Scotland, where after a little resistance made by the
inhabitants, the said Malcolme then their king did homage to him
at Abirnethie in Scotland for the kingdome of Scotland, as to his
superiour also by meane of his late conquest.

[Sidenote: William Rufus.]
William surnamed Rufus, sonne to this William called the Conquerour,
succéeded next in the throne of England, to whome the said Malcolme
king of Scots did like homage for the whole kingdome of Scotland.
But afterward he rebelled, and was by this William Rufus slaine in
plaine field. Wherevpon the Scotishmen did choose one Donald or
Dunwall to be their king. But this William Rufus deposed him, and
created Dunkane sonne of Malcolme to be their king, who did like
homage to him. Finallie, this Dunkane was slaine by the Scots, and
Dunwall restored, who once againe by this William Rufus was deposed;
and Edgar son of Malcolme, and brother to the last Malcolme, was
by him made their king, who did like homage for Scotland to this
William Rufus.

[Sidenote: Henrie I.]
Henrie called Beauclerke the sonne of William called the Conquerour,
after the death of his brother William Rufus, succéeded to the
crowne of England, to whome the same Edgar king of Scots did homage
for Scotland: this Henrie Beauclerke maried Mawd the daughter of
Malcolme K. of Scots, and by hir had issue Mawd afterward empresse.

Alexander the sonne of Malcolme brother to this Mawd was next king
of Scots, he did like homage for the kingdome of Scotland to this
Henrie the first, as Edgar had doone before him.

[Sidenote: Mawd.]
Mawd called the empresse, daughter and heire to Henrie Beauclerke
and Mawd his wife, receiued homage of Dauid, brother to hir and to
this Alexander next king of Scots, before all the temporall men of
England for the kingdome of Scotland. This Mawd the empresse gaue
vnto Dauid in the marriage, Mawd the daughter and heire of Voldosius
earle of Huntingdon & Northumberland. And herein their euasion
appeareth, by which they allege that their kings homages, were made
for the earledome of Huntingdon. For this Dauid was the first that
of their kings was earle of Huntingdon, which was since all the
homages of their kings before recited, and at the time of this
mariage, & long after the said Alexander his brother was king of
Scots, doing the homage aforesaid to Henrie Beauclerke son to the
aforesaid ladie, of whome I find this epitaph worthie to be remembred:

  Ortu magna, viro maior, sed maxima partu,
    Hîc iacet Henrici filia, sponsa, parens.

In the yéere of our Lord 1136, and first yeere of the reigne of
king Stephan, the said Dauid king of Scots being required to doo
his homage, refused it: for so much as he had doone homage to Mawd
the empresse before time; notwithstanding the sonne of the said
Dauid did homage to king Stephan.

[Sidenote: Henrie 2.]
Henrie called Fitz empresse, the sonne of Mawd the empresse daughter
of Mawd, daughter of Malcolme king of Scots, was next king of
England. He receiued homage for Scotland of Malcolme sonne of
Henrie, sonne of the said Dauid their last king. Which Malcolme
after this homage attended vpon the same king Henrie in his warres
against Lewis then king of France. Whereby appeareth that their
French league was neuer renewed after the last diuision of their
countrie by Osbright king of England. But after these warres finished
with the French king, this Malcolme being againe in Scotland
rebelled: wherevpon king Henrie immediatlie seized Huntingdon and
Northumberland into his owne hands by confiscation, and made warres
vpon him in Scotland: during which the same Malcolme died without
issue of his bodie.

William brother of this Malcolme was next king of Scots, he with
[Sidenote: Because they were taken from him before.]
all the nobles of Scotland (which could not be now for anie earledome)
did homage to the sonne of Henrie the second, his father. Also the
earledome of Huntingdon was (as ye haue heard) before this forfeited
by Malcolme his brother, and neuer after restored to the crowne of
Scotland.

This William did afterward attend vpon the same Henrie the second,
in his warres in Normandie against the French king (notwithstanding
their French league) and then being licenced to depart home in the
tenth of this prince, and vpon the fifteenth of Februarie he
returned, and vpon the sixtéenth of October did homage to him for
the realme of Scotland. In token also of his perpetuall subiection
to the crowne of England, he offered vp his cloake, his saddle,
and his speare at the high altar in Yorke: wherevpon he was permitted
to depart home into Scotland, where immediatlie he mooued cruell
warre in Northumberland against the same king Henrie, being as yet
in Normandie. But God tooke the defense of king Henries part, and
deliuered the same William king of Scots into the hands of a few
Englishmen, who brought him prisoner to king Henrie into Normandie
in the twentith yeere of his reigne. But at the last, at the sute
of Dauid his brother, Richard bishop of saint Andrews, and other
bishops and lords, he was put to this fine for the amendment of
his trespasse; to wit, to paie ten thousand pounds sterling, and
to surrender all his title to the earldome of Huntingdon, Cumberland,
& Northumberland into the hands of king Henrie, which he did in
all things accordinglie, sealing his charters thereof with the
great seale of Scotland, and signets of his nobilitie yet to be
seene: wherein it was also comprised, that he and his successours
should hold the realme of Scotland of the king of England and his
successours for euer. And herevpon he once againe did homage to
the same king Henrie, which now could not be for the earledome of
Huntingdon, the right whereof was alreadie by him surrendered. And
for the better assurance of this faith also, the strengths of
Berwike, Edenborough, Roxborough, and Striueling were deliuered
into the hands of our king Henrie of England, which their owne
writers confesse. But Hector Boetius saith, that this trespasse
was amended by fine of twentie thousand pounds sterling, and that
the erledome of Huntingdon, Cumberland, and Northumberland were
deliuered as morgage into the hands of king Henrie, vntill other
ten thousand pounds sterling should be to him paid, which is so
farre from truth, as Hector was (while he liued) from well meaning
to our countrie. But if we grant that it is true, yet prooueth he
not that the monie was paid, nor the land otherwise redéemed, or
euer after came to anie Scotish kings hands. And thus it appeareth
that the earledome of Huntingdon was neuer occasion of the homages
of the Scotish kings to the kings of England, either before this
time or after.

This was doone 1175. Moreouer I read this note hereof gathered out
of Robertus Montanus or Montensis that liued in those daies, and
was (as I take it) "confessor to king Henrie. The king of Scots
dooth homage to king Henrie for the kingdome of Scotland, and is
sent home againe, his bishops also did promise to doo the like to
the archbishop of Yorke, and to acknowledge themselues to be of
his prouince and iurisdiction. By vertue also of this composition
the said Robert saith, that Rex Angliae dabat honores, episcopatus,
abbatias, & alias dignitates in Scotia, vel saltem eius consilio
dabantur, that is, The king of England gaue honors, bishopriks,
abbatships, and other dignities in Scotland, or at the leastwise
they were not giuen without his aduise and counsell."

At this time Alexander bishop of Rome (supposed to haue generall
iurisdiction ecclesiasticall through christendome) established the
whole cleargie of Scotland (according to the old lawes) vnder the
iurisdiction of the archbishop of Yorke.

In the yeare of our Lord 1185, in the moneth of August, at Cairleill,
Rouland Talmant lord of Galwaie, did homage and fealtie to the said
king Henrie with all that held of him.

In the two and twentith yeare of the reigne of king Henrie the
second, Gilbert sonne of Ferguse prince of Galwaie, did homage and
fealtie to the said king Henrie, and left Dunecan his sonne in
hostage for conseruation of his peace.

Richard surnamed Coeur de Lion, because of his stoutnesse, and
sonne of this Henrie was next king of England, to whome the same
William king of Scots did homage at Canturburie for the whole
kingdome of Scotland.

This king Richard was taken prisoner by the duke of Ostrich, for
whose redemption the whole realme was taxed at great summes of
monie vnto the which this William king of Scots (as a subiect) was
contributorie, and paied two thousand markes sterling.

In the yeare of our Lord 1199, Iohn king of England sent to William
king of Scots, to come and doo his homage, which William came to
Lincolne in the moneth of December the same yeare, and did his
homage vpon an hill in the presence of Hubert archbishop of
Canturburie, and of all the people there assembled, and therevnto
tooke his oth and was sworne vpon the crosse of the said Hubert:
also he granted by his charter confirmed, that he should haue the
mariage of Alexander his sonne, as his liegeman, alwaies to hold
of the king of England: promising moreouer that he the said king
William and his sonne Alexander, should keepe and hold faith and
allegiance to Henrie sonne of the said king Iohn, as to their chiefe
lord against all maner of men that might liue and die.

Also whereas William king of Scots had put Iohn bishop of saint
Andrew out of his bishoprike, pope Clement wrote to Henrie king of
England, that he should mooue and induce the same William; and if
néed required by his roiall power and prerogatiue ouer that nation,
to compell him to leaue his rancor against the said bishop, and
suffer him to haue and occupie his said bishoprike againe.

In the yeare of our Lord 1216, and fiue & twentith of the reigne
of Henrie, sonne to king Iohn, the same Henrie and the quéene were
at Yorke at the feast of Christmasse, for the solemnization of a
marriage made in the feast of saint Stephan the martyr the same
yeare, betwéene Alexander king of Scots, and Margaret the kings
daughter, and there the said Alexander did homage to Henrie king
of England for all the realme of Scotland.

In buls of diuerse popes were admonitions giuen to the kings of
Scots, as appeareth by that of Gregorie the fift and Clement his
successor, that they should obserue and trulie kéepe all such
appointments, as had béene made betwéene the kings of England and
Scotland. And that the kings of Scotland should still hold the
realme of Scotland of the kings of England, vpon paine of cursse
and interdiction.

After the death of Alexander king of Scots, Alexander his sonne,
being nine yeares of age, was by the lawes of Edgar, in ward to
king Henrie the third, & by the nobles of Scotland brought to Yorke,
and there deliuered vnto him. During whose minoritie king Henrie
gouerned Scotland, and to subdue a commotion in this realme, vsed
the aid of fiue thousand Scotishmen. But king Henrie died during
the nonage of this Alexander, whereby he receiued not his homage,
which by reason and law was respited vntill his full age of one
and twentie yeares.

Edward the first after the conquest, sonne of this Henrie was next
king of England; immediatlie after whose coronation, Alexander king
of Scots, being then of full age, did homage to him for Scotland
at Westminster, swearing (as all the rest did) after this maner.

"I.D.N. king of Scots shall be true and faithfull vnto you lord E.
by the grace of God king of England, the noble and superior lord
of the kingdome of Scotland, and vnto you I make my fidelitie for
the same kingdome, the which I hold and claime to hold of you. And
I shall beare you my faith and fidelitie of life and lim, and
worldlie honour against all men, faithfullie I shall knowlege and
shall doo you seruice due vnto you of the kingdome of Scotland
aforesaid, as God me so helpe and these holie euangelies."

This Alexander king of Scots died, leaning one onelie daughter
called Margaret for his heire, who before had maried Hanigo, sonne
to Magnus king of Norwaie, which daughter also shortlie after died,
leauing one onelie daughter hir heire, of the age of two yeares,
whose custodie and mariage by the lawes of king Edgar, and Edward
the confessor, belonged to Edward the first: whervpon the nobles
of Scotland were commanded by our king Edward to send into Norwaie,
to conueie this yoong queene into England to him, whome he intended
to haue maried to his sonne Edward: and so to haue made a perfect
vnion long wished for betwéene both realmes. Herevpon their nobles
at that time considering the same tranquillitie that manie of them
haue since refused, stood not vpon shifts and delaies of minoritie
nor contempt, but most gladlie consented, and therevpon sent two
noble men of Scotland into Norwaie, for hir to be brought to this
king Edward, but she died before their comming thither, and therefore
they required nothing but to inioie the lawfull liberties that they
had quietlie possessed in the last king Alexanders time.

After the death of this Margaret, the Scots were destitute of anie
heire to the crowne from this Alexander their last king, at which
time this Edward descended from the bodie of Mawd daughter of
Malcolme sometime king of Scots, being then in the greatest broile
of his warres with France, minded not to take the possession of
that kingdome in his owne right, but was contented to establish
Balioll to be king thereof, the weake title betwéene him, Bruse,
& Hastings, being by the humble petition of all the realme of
Scotland committed to the determination of king Edward, wherein by
autentike writing they confessed the superioritie of the realme to
remaine in king Edward, sealed with the seales of foure bishops,
seuen earles, and twelue barons of Scotland, and which shortlie
after was by the whole assent of the three estates of Scotland, in
their solemne parlement confessed and enacted accordinglie, as most
euidentlie dooth appeare.

The Balioll in this wise made king of Scotland, did immediatlie
make his homage and fealtie at Newcastell vpon saint Stéeuens daie
(as did likewise all the lords of Scotland, each one setting his
hand to the composition in writing) to king Edward of England for
the kingdome of Scotland: but shortlie after defrauding the benigne
goodnesse of his superiour, he rebelled, and did verie much hurt
in England. Herevpon king Edward inuaded Scotland, seized into his
hands the greater part of the countrie, and tooke all the strengths
thereof. Whervpon Balioll king of Scots came vnto him to Mauntrosse
in Scotland with a white wand in his hand, and there resigned the
crowne of Scotland, with all his right, title, and interest to the
same, into the hands of king Edward, and thereof made his charter
in writing, dated and sealed the fourth yeare of his reigne. All
the nobles and gentlemen of Scotland also repaired to Berwike, and
did homage and fealtie to king Edward, there becomming his subiects.
For the better assurance of whose oths also, king Edward kept all
the strengths and holdes of Scotland in his owne hands; and herevpon
all their lawes, processes, all iudgements, gifts of assises and
others, passed vnder the name and authoritie of king Edward. Leland
touching the same rehearsall, writeth thereof in this maner.

"In the yeare of our Lord 1295, the same Iohn king of Scots,
contrarie to his faith and allegiance rebelled against king Edward,
and came into England, and burnt and slue without all modestie and
mercie. Wherevpon king Edward with a great host went to Newcastell
vpon Tine, passed the water of Twéed, besieged Berwike, and got
it. Also he wan the castell of Dunbar, and there were slaine at
this brunt 15700 Scots. Then he proceeded further, and gat the
castell of Rokesborow, and the castell of Edenborow, Striuelin and
Gedworth, and his people harried all the land. In the meane season,
the said king Iohn of Scots, considering that he was not of power
to withstand king Edward, sent his letters and besought him of
treatie and peace, which our prince benignlie granted, and sent to
him againe that he should come to the towre of Brechin, and bring
thither the great lords of Scotland with him. The king of England
sent thither Antonie Becke bishop of Durham, with his roiall power,
to conclude the said treatise. And there it was agreed that the
said Iohn and all the Scots should vtterlie submit themselues to
the kings will. And to the end the submission should be performed
accordinglie, the king of Scots laid his sonne in hostage and pledge
vnto him. There also he made his letters sealed with the common
seale of Scotland, by the which he knowledging his simplenes and
great offense doone to his lord king Edward of England, by his full
power and frée will yeelded vp all the land of Scotland, with all
the people and homage of the same. Then our king went foorth to
sée the mounteins, and vnderstanding that all was in quiet and
[Sidenote: The Scots dreame that this was the stone whereon Jacob
slept when he fled into Mesopotamia.]
peace, he turned to the abbeie of Scone, which was of chanons
regular, where he tooke the stone called the Regall of Scotland,
vpon which the kings of that nation were woont to sit, at the time
of their coronations for a throne, & sent it to the abbeie of
Westminster, commanding to make a chaire therof for the priests
that should sing masse at the high altar: which chaire was made,
and standeth yet there at this daie to be séene."

In the yeare of our Lord 1296, the king held his parlement at
Berwike: and there he tooke homage singularlie of diuerse of the
lords & nobles of Scotland. And for a perpetuall memorie of the
same, they made their letters patents sealed with their seales,
and then the king of England made William Warreine earle of Surrie
and Southsax lord Warden of Scotland, Hugh of Cressingham treasuror,
and William Ormesbie iustice of Scotland, and foorthwith sent king
Iohn to the Tower of London, and Iohn Comin, and the earle Badenauth,
the earle of Bohan and other lords into England to diuerse places
on this side of the Trent.

And after that, in the yeare of our Lord 1297, at the feast of
Christmas, the king called before him the said Iohn king of Scots,
although he had committed him to ward: and said that he would burne
or destroie their castels, townes, and lands, if he were not
recompensed for his costs and damages susteined in the warres; but
king Iohn and the other that were in ward, answered that they had
nothing, sith their liues, their deaths, and goods were in his
hands. The king vpon that answer mooued with pitie, granted them
their liues; so that they would doo their homage, and make their
oth solemnelie at the high altar (in the church of the abbeie of
Westminster) vpon the eucharist, that they and euerie of them should
hold and keepe true faith, obedience, and allegiance to the said
king Edward and his heires kings of England for euer. And where
the said king of Scots saw the kings banner of England displaied,
he and all his power should draw therevnto. And that neither he or
anie of his from thencefoorth should beare armes against the king
of England or anie of his bloud. Finallie, the king rewarding with
great gifts the said king Iohn and his lords, suffered them to
depart. But they went into Scotland alwaie imagining (notwithstanding
this their submission) how they might oppresse king Edward, and
disturbe his realme. The Scots sent also to the king of France for
succour and helpe, who sent them ships to Berwike furnished with
men of armes, the king of England then being in Flanders.

In the yeare of our Lord 1298, the king went into Scotland with a
great host, and the Scots also assembled in great number, but the
king fought with them at Fawkirke on S. Marie Magdalens daie, where
were slaine thréescore thousand Scots, & William Walleis that was
their capteine fled, who being taken afterward, was hanged, drawen,
& quartered at London, for his trespasses.

After this the Scots rebelled againe, and all the lords of Scotland
chose Robert Bruse to be king, except onelie Iohn Commin earle of
[Sidenote: This was doone upon the nine & twentith of Ianuarie, 1306.]
Carrike, who would not consent thereto bicause of his oth made to
the king of England. Wherefore Robert Bruse slue him at Dumfrise,
and then was crowned at Schone abbeie. Herevpon the king of England
assembled a great hoast, and rode through all Scotland, discomfited
Robert Bruse, slue eight thousand Scots, & tooke the most part of
all the lords of Scotland, putting the temporall lords to deth
bicause they were forsworne.

Edward borne at Carnaruan sonne of this Edward, was next king of
England, who from the beginning of his reigne enioied Scotland
peaceablie, dooing in all things as is aboue said of king Edward
his father, vntill toward the later end of his reigne, about which
time this Robert Bruse conspired against him, and with the helpe
of a few forsworne Scots, forswore himselfe king of Scots. Herevpon
this Edward with Thomas earle of Lancaster and manie other lords
made warre vpon him, about the feast of Marie Magdalene, the said
Bruse and his partakers being alreadie accurssed by the pope for
breaking the truce that he had established betwixt them. But being
infortunate in his first warres against him, he suffered Edward
the sonne of Balioll to proclame himselfe king of Scots; and
neuerthelesse held foorth his warres against Bruse, before the
ending of which he died, as I read.

Edward borne at Windsore sonne of Edward the second was next king
of England, at the age of fifteene yeares, in whose minoritie the
Scots practised with Isabell mother to this Edward, and with Roger
Mortimer earle of the March to haue their homages released: whose
good will therein they obteined, so that for the same release they
should paie to this king Edward thirtie thousand pounds starling,
in three yeares next following, that is to saie, ten thousand pounds
starling yeerelie. But bicause the nobilitie and commons of this
realme would not by parlement consent vnto it, their king being
within age, the same release procéeded not, albeit the Scots ceased
not their practises with this quéene and earle. But before those
thrée yeares, in which their monie (if the bargaine had taken place)
should haue béene paied, were expired, our king Edward inuaded
Scotland, and ceassed not the warre, vntill Dauid the sonne of
Robert le Bruse (then by their election king of Scotland) absolutelie
submitted himselfe vnto him. But for that the said Dauid Bruse had
before by practise of the quéene and the earle of March, married
Iane the sister of this king Edward: he mooued by naturall zeale
to his sister, was contented to giue the realme of Scotland to this
Dauid Bruse, and to the heires that should be begotten of the bodie
of the said Iane (sauing the reuersion and meane homages to this
king Edward and to his owne children) wherewith the same Dauid
Bruse was right well contented, and therevpon immediatlie made his
homage for all the realme of Scotland to him.

Howbeit, shortlie after causelesse conceiuing cause of displeasure,
this Dauid procured to dissolue this same estate tailée, and
therevpon not onelie rebelled in Scotland, but also inuaded England,
whilest king Edward was occupied about his wars in France. But this
Dauid was not onelie expelled England in the end, but also thinking
no place a sufficient defense to his vntruth, of his owne accord
fled out of Scotland: whereby the countries of Annandale, Gallowaie,
Mars, Teuidale, Twedale, and Ethrike were seized into the king of
Englands hands, and new marches set betwéene England and Scotland
at Cockburnes path & Sowtrie hedge. Which when this Dauid went
about to recouer againe, his power was discomfited, and himselfe
by a few Englishmen taken & brought into England, where he remained
prisoner eleuen yeares after his said apprehension.

During this time, king Edward enioied Scotland peaceablie, and then
at the contemplation and wearie suit of his sorowfull sister, wife
of this Dauid, he was contented once againe to restore him to the
kingdome of Scotland. Wherevpon it was concluded, that for this
rebellion Dauid should paie to king Edward, the summe of one hundred
thousand markes starling, and thereto destroie all his holdes and
fortresses standing against the English borders, and further assure
the crowne of Scotland to the children of this king Edward for
lacke of heire of his owne bodie, all which things he did accordinglie.
And for the better assurance of his obeisance also, he afterward
deliuered into the hands of king Edward sundrie noble men of Scotland
in this behalfe as his pledges. This is the effect of the historie
of Dauid, touching his delings. Now let vs sée what was doone by
Edward Balioll, wherof our chronicles doo report, that in the yéere
of our Lord 1326, Edward the third, king of England, was crowned
at Westminster, and in the fift yeare of his reigne Edward Balioll
right heire to the kingdome of Scotland came in, and claimed it as
due to him. Sundrie lords and gentlemen also, which had title to
diuerse lands there, either by themselues, or by their wiues, did
the like. Wherevpon the said Balioll and they went into Scotland
by sea, and landing at Kinghorne with 3000 Englishmen, discomfited
10000 Scots, and slue 1200, and then went foorth to Dunfermeline,
where the Scots assembled against them with 40000 men, and in the
feast of saint Laurence, at a place called Gastmore (or otherwise
Gladmore) were slaine fiue earls, thirtéene barons, a hundred and
thrée score knights, two thousand men of armes, and manie other;
in all fortie thousand: and there were slaine on the English part
but thirtéene persons onelie, if the number be not corrupted.

In the eight yeare of the reigne of king Edward, he assembled a
great hoast, and came to Berwike vpon Twéed, and laid siege therto.
To him also came Edward Balioll king of Scots, with a great power
to strengthen & aid him against the Scots, who came out of Scotland
in foure batels well armed & araied.

Edward king of England, and Edward king of Scots, apparrelled their
people either of them in foure battels: and vpon Halidon hill,
beside Berwike, met these two hoasts, and there were discomfited
of the Scots fiue and twentie thousand and seauen hundred, whereof
were slaine eight earles, a thousand and thrée hundred knights and
gentlemen. This victorie doone, the king returned to Berwike, &
then the towne with the castell were yéelded vp vnto him. In the
eight yeare of the reigne of king Edward of England, Edward Balioll
king of Scots came to Newcastell vpon Tine, and did homage for all
the realme of Scotland.

In the yeare of our Lord 1346, Dauid Bruse by the prouocation of
the king of France rebelled, and came into England with a great
hoast vnto Neuils crosse: but the archbishop of Yorke, with diuerse
temporall men, fought with him; and the said king of Scots was
taken, and William earle of Duglas with Morrise earle of Strathorne
were brought to London, and manie other lords slaine, which with
Dauid did homage to Edward king of England.

And in the thirtith yeare of the kings reigne, and the yeare of
our Lord 1355, the Scots woone the towne of Berwicke, but not the
castell. Herevpon the king came thither with a great hoast, and
anon the towne was yéelded vp without anie resistance.

Edward Balioll, considering that God did so manie maruellous and
gratious things for king Edward, at his owne will gaue vp the crowne
and the realme of Scotland to king Edward of England at Rokesborough,
by his letters patents. And anon after the king of England, in
presence of all his lords spirituall and temporall, let crowne
himselfe king there of the realme of Scotland, & ordeined all things
to his intent, and so came ouer into England.

Richard the sonne of Edward, called the Blacke prince, sonne of
this king Edward, was next king of England, who for that the said
Iane, the wife of the said king Dauid of Scotland was deceassed
without issue, and being informed how the Scots deuised to their
vttermost power to breake the limitation of this inheritance touching
the crowne of Scotland, made foorthwith war against them, wherein
he burnt Edenbrough, spoiled all their countrie, tooke all their
holds, & held continuallie war against them vntill his death, which
was Anno Dom. 1389.

Henrie the fourth of that name was next king of England, he continued
these warres begun against them by king Richard, and ceassed not
vntill Robert king of Scots (the third of that name) resigned his
crowne by appointment of this king Henrie, and deliuered his sonne
Iames, being then of the age of nine yeares, into his hands to
remaine at his custodie, wardship and disposition, as of his
superiour lord, according to the old lawes of king Edward the
confessor. All this was doone Anno Dom. 1404, which was within fiue
yeares after the death of king Richard. This Henrie the fourth
reigned in this estate ouer them fouretéene yeares.

Henrie the fift of that name, sonne to this king Henrie the fourth,
was next king of England. He made warres against the French king,
in all which this Iames then king of Scots attended vpon him, as
vpon his superiour lord, with a conuenient number of Scots,
notwithstanding their league with France. But this Henrie reigned
but nine yeares, whereby the homage of this Iames their king (hauing
not fullie accomplished the age of one & twentie yeares) was by
reason and law respited. Finallie the said Iames with diuerse other
lords attended vpon the corps of the said Henrie vnto Westminster,
as to his dutie apperteined.

Henrie the sixt, the sonne of this Henrie the fift, was next king
of England, to whome the seigniorie of Scotland & custodie of this
Iames by right, law, and reason descended, married the same Iames
king of Scots to Iane daughter of Iohn earle of Summerset, at saint
Marie ouer Ise in Southwarke, and tooke for the value of this
mariage, the summe of one hundred thousand markes starling.

This Iames king of Scots at his full age, did homage to the same
king Henrie the sixt, for the kingdome of Scotland at Windsore, in
the moneth of Ianuarie.

Since which time, vntill the daies of king Henrie the seuenth,
grandfather to our souereigne ladie that now is, albeit this realme
hath béene molested with diuersitie of titles, in which vnmeet time
neither law nor reason admit prescription to the preiudice of anie
right: yet did king Edward the fourth next king of England, by
preparation of war against the Scots in the latter end of his
reigne, sufficientlie by all lawes induce to the continuance of
his claime to the same superioritie ouer them.

After whose death, vnto the beginning of the reigne of our souereigne
lord king Henrie the eight, excéeded not the number of seauen and
twentie yeares, about which time the impediment of our claime of
the Scots part, chanced by the nonage of Iames their last king
which so continued the space of one and twentie yeares. And like
as his minoritie was by all law and reason an impediment to himselfe
to make homage; so was the same by like reason an impediment to
the king of this realme to demand anie, so that the whole time of
intermission of our claime in the time of the said king Henrie the
eight, is deduced vnto the number of thirteene yeares. And thus
much for this matter.




OF THE WALL SOMETIME BUILDED FOR A PARTITION BETWEENE ENGLAND AND
THE PICTS AND SCOTS.

CHAP. XXIII.


Hauing hitherto discoursed vpon the title of the kings of England,
vnto the Scotish kingdome: I haue now thought good to adde herevnto
the description of two walles that were (in times past) limits vnto
both the said regions, and therefore to be touched in this first
booke, as generallie appertinent vnto the estate of the whole Iland;
and no lesse famous than that which Anastasius Dicorus made afterward
from the Euxine vnto the Thracian sea, conteining 420 furlongs in
length, and twelue foot in bredth, & distant from Constantinople
[Sidenote: The first beginner of the Picts wall.]
280 furlongs, albeit that of Hadrian was made of turffe and timber.
The author therefore of the first wall was Hadrian the emperour,
who (as Aelius Spartianus saith) erected the same of foure score
miles in length, twelue foot in heigth, and eight in bredth, to
diuide the barbarous Britons from the more ciuill sort, which then
were generallie called by the name of Romans ouer all.

[Sidenote: The finisher of the wall.]
After his time Seuerus the emperour comming againe into this Ile
(where he had serued before in repression of the tumults here begun,
after the death of Lucius) amongst other things he made another
wall (but of stone) betwéene eightie and a hundred miles from the
first, & of thirtie two miles in length, reaching on both sides
also to the sea, of whome the Britons called it S. Murseueri, or
Gwall Seueri, that is, The wall of Seuerus, or Seuerus dale, which
later indureth vntill these daies in fresh memorie, by reason of
the ruines & square stones there oft found, whose inscriptions
declare the authors of that worke. It is worthie the noting also,
how that in this voiage he lost 50000 men in the Scotish side, by
one occasion and other, which hinderance so incensed him, that he
determined vtterlie to extinguish their memorie from vnder heauen,
[Sidenote: The wall goeth not streict by a line, but in and out in
manie places.]
and had so doone in déed, if his life had indured but vntill another
yeare. Sextus Aurelius writing of Seuerus, addeth, how that the
wall made by this prince conteined two and thirtie miles, whereby
the bredth of this Iland there, and length of the wall conteineth
onelie so manie miles, as may be gathered by his words. But chéeflie
for the length of the wall, Spartianus who touching it among other
things saith of Seuerus as followeth: "Britanniam (quod maximum
eius imperij decus est) muro per transuersam insulam ducto, vtrinq;
ad finem oceani muniuit," that is, He fortified Britaine (which is
one of the chéefe acts recorded of his time) with a wall made
ouerthwart the Ile, that reached on both sides euen to the verie
Ocean.

[Sidenote: The stuffe of the wall.]
That this wall was of stone also, the ruines therof (which haue
ministred much matter to such as dwell néere therevnto in their
buildings) is triall sufficient. Heereby in like sort it commeth
to passe, that where the soile about it is least inhabited, there
is most mention of the said wall, which was wrought of squared
stone, as vntill this daie maie euidentlie be confirmed. Howbeit,
these two walles were not the onelie partitions betwéene these two
[Sidenote: Two other wals.]
kingdoms, sith Iulius Capitolinus in vita Antonini Pij dooth write
of another that Lollius Vrbicus made beyond the same, of turffe,
in the time of the said prince, who (for his victories in Britaine)
was also called Britannicus, which neuerthelesse was often throwne
downe by the Scots, and eftsoones repared againe, vntill it was
giuen ouer and relinquished altogither. It runneth (as I take it)
also within the wall about an arrow shot from that of stone: but
how farre it went, as yet I cannot find. This onlie remaineth
[Sidenote: A rampire.]
certeine, that the walles made by Hadrian & Seuerus, were ditched
with notable ditches and rampires made in such wise, that the
Scotish aduersarie had much a doo to enter and scale the same in
his assaults. And yet for all this, I read that the Scots oftentimes
pulled downe great parcels of the same, to make their accesse more
easie into the south parts: but as it was eftsoons repared againe,
so the last time of all it was amended by the Romane soldiors,
which came ouer verie little before the time of Vortiger, at which
season the land was in maner left void of soldiors and munition.
Betwixt Thirlewall and the north Tine, are also in the waste grounds,
manie parcels of that wall of Seuerus yet standing, whereof the
common people doo babble manie things.

[Sidenote: The course of the wall from west to east.]
Beginning therefore with the course thereof, from the west sea, I
find that it runneth from Bolnesse to Burgh, about foure miles,
and likewise from thence within halfe a mile of Carleill, and lesse
on the north side, and beneath the confluence of the Peder and the
Eden. From hence it goeth to Terrebie, a village about a mile from
Caerleill, then through the baronie of Linstocke, and Gillesland,
on the north side of the riuer Irding or Arding, and a quarter of
a mile from the abbeie of Leuercost. Thence thrée miles aboue
Leuercost, and aboue the confluence of Arding, and the Pultrose
becke (which diuideth Gillesland in Cumberland, from south Tindale
in Northumberland) it goeth to Thirlwall castell, then to the wall
towne, next of all ouer the riuer to Swensheld, Carraw (peraduenture
Cairuoren tower) to Walwijc, and so ouer south Tine, to Cockelie
tower, Portgate, Halton sheles, Winchester, Rutchester, Heddon,
Walhottle, Denton, and to Newcastell, where it is thought that
saint Nicholas church standeth on the same. Howbeit Leland saith,
that it goeth within a mile of Newcastell, and then crooketh vp
toward Tinmouth vnto Wallesend, three miles from the mouth of the
said riuer, so called bicause the aforesaid wall did end at the
same place. And thus much I read of the Pictish wall. As for the
Romane coine that is often found in the course thereof, the curious
bricks about the same néere vnto Caerleill, beside the excellent
cornellines and other costlie stones alreadie intailed for seales
oftentimes taken vp in those quarters, I passe them ouer as not
incident to my purpose.

In like maner I would gladlie also haue set downe the course of
Offaes ditch, which was march betwéene the Mercian dominions, and
the Welshmen in his time: but for so much as the tractation thereof
is not to be reférred to this place, bicause it is not a thing
generall to the whole Iland, I omit to speake of that also. Yet
thus much will I note here, as well by the report of one (who saith
how he did tread it out) that he followed it from the Dee to
Kirnaburgh hill through Treuelach forrest, by est of Crekith
Cauchhill, Montgomerie castell, the New castell and Discoid, and
hauing brought it hitherto, either lost it, or sought after it no
further: as by the testimonie of another, who writing thereof,
saith, that it stretched from the south side by Bristow, along
vnder the mounteins of Wales northwards, ouer the riuer of Sauerne,
and to the verie mouth also of the Dée, where it falleth into the
sea. And so much of such things as concerne the generall estate of
the whole Iland, which labour herein I could verie well haue spared,
and would, if Quintus had performed the request of Cicero his
brother, who promised to send him ouer a sound aduertisement of
the condition of Britaine in those daies: as appeareth in the second
booke of his familiar epistles, where he saith; "Modò mihi date
Britanniam, quam pingam coloribus tuis penicillo meo, &c." But
sithence that was not performed, and the treatise of Demetrius and
other of the same argument are perished, which were of some value,
let this trifle (I beseech you) not be reiected, till some other
man of better skill shall haue drawne a more absolute péece of
workemanship, wherevnto my vnskilfulnesse (I hope) shall prooue no
hinderance.




OF THE MARUELS OF ENGLAND.

CHAP. XXIV.


Such as haue written of the woonders of our coontrie in old time,
haue spoken (no doubt) of manie things, which deserue no credit at
all: and therefore in séeking thankes of their posteritie by their
trauell in this behalfe; they haue reaped the reward of iust reproch,
and in stéed of fame purchased vnto themselues nought else but
méere discredit in their better and more learned treatises. The
like commonlie happeneth also to such, as in respect of lucre doo
publish vnprofitable and pernicious volumes, wherby they doo consume
their times in vaine, and in manifold wise become preiudiciall vnto
their common wealths. For my part I will not touch anie man herein
particularlie, no not our Demetrius, of whom Plutarch speaketh in
his oracles (if those bookes were written by him, for some thinke
that Plutarch neuer wrote them, although Eusebius lib. 4. cap. 8.
dooth acknowledge them to be his) which Demetrius left sundrie
treatises behind him, conteining woonderfull things collected of
our Iland. But sith that in my time they are found to be false, it
should be far vnmeet to remember them anie more: for who is he
which will beléeue, that infernall spirits can die and giue vp
their ghosts like mortall men? though Saxo séeme to consent vnto
him in this behalfe. In speaking also of the out Iles, he saith
thus: Beyond Britaine are manie desolate Ilands, whereof some are
dedicated to the Gods, some to the noble Heroes. I sailed (saith
he) by the helpe of the king vnto one that laie néere hand, onelie
to see and view the same, in which I found few inhabitants, and
yet such as were there, were reputed and taken for men of great
pietie and holinesse. During the time also that I remained in the
same, it was vexed with great storme and tempest, which caused me
not a little to doubt of my safe returne. In the end, demanding of
the inhabitants what the cause should be of this so great and sudden
mutation of the aire? they answered, that either some of the Gods,
or at the least of the Heroes were latelie deceased: for as a candle
(said they) hurteth none whilest it burneth, but being slenderlie
put out annoieth manie with the filthie sauour: so these Gods,
whilest they liued, were either not hurtfull, or verie beneficiall
to mankind; but being once deceassed, they so mooue the heauens
and aire, that much mischéefe dooth insue eftsoones vpon the same.

Being also inquisitiue of the state of other Iles not farre off,
they told him further, how there was one hard by, wherein Saturne
being ouertaken with a dead sléepe, was watched by Briareus as he
laie, which Saturne also had manie spirits attending vpon him in
sundrie functions and offices. By which reports it is easie to
conceiue, with what vaine stuffe that volume of Demetrius is
interlaced. But of such writers as we haue too too manie, so among
the said rable Geruase of Tilberie is not the least famous, a man
as it were euen sold to vtter matters of more admiration than credit
to the world. For what a tale telleth he in his De otio imperiali,
of Wandleburie hilles, that lie within sight & by south of Cambridge
(where the Vandals incamped sometime, when they entered into this
Iland) and of a spirit that would of custome in a moone shine night
(if he were chalenged and called therevnto) run at tilt and turneie
in complet armor with anie knight or gentleman whomsoeuer, in that
place: and how one Osbert of Barnewell, hearing the report thereof,
armed himselfe, and being well mounted, rode thither alone with
one esquier, and called for him, who foorthwith appeared in rich
armour, and answered his chalenge, so that running togither verie
fiercelie, they met with such rigor, that the answerer was ouerthrowne
and borne downe to the ground. After this they bickered on foot so
long, till Osbert ouercame and draue him to flight, who departed,
leauing his horsse behind him, which was of huge stature, blacke
(as he saith) of colour, with his furniture of the same hue, and
wherevpon he seized, giuing him vnto his page, who caried him home,
and there kept him till it was néere daie, during which space he
was seene of manie. But when the daie light began to shew it selfe
somewhat cléere, the beast stamped and snorted, and foorthwith
breaking his raine, he ran awaie, and was no more heard of to his
knowledge in that countrie. In the meane season Osbert being verie
faint, and waxing wearie (for he was sore wounded in the thigh,
which either he knew not of, or at the leastwise dissembled to know
it) caused his leg-harnesse or stéele bootes to be pulled off,
which his fréends saw to be full of bloud spilled in the voiage.
But let who so list beléeue it, sith it is either a fable deuised,
or some diuelish illusion, if anie such thing were doone. And on
mine owne behalfe, hauing (I hope) the feare of God before my eies,
I purpose here to set downe no more than either I know my selfe to
be true, or am crediblie informed to be so, by such godly men, as
[Sidenote: Foure woonders of England.]
to whom nothing is more deare than to speake the truth, and not
anie thing more odious than to discredit themselues by lieng. In
writing therefore of the woonders of England, I find that there
are foure notable things, which for their rarenesse amongst the
common sort, are taken for the foure miracles and woonders of the
land.

The first of these is a vehement and strong wind, which issueth
out of the hilles called the Peke, so violent and strong, that at
certeine times if a man doo cast his cote or cloake into the caue
from whence it issueth, it driueth the same backe againe, hoising
it aloft into the open aire with great force and vehemencie. Of
this also Giraldus speaketh.

The second is the miraculous standing or rather hanging of certeine
stones vpon the plaine of Salisburie, whereof the place is called
Stonehenge. And to saie the truth, they may well be woondered at,
not onelie for the manner of position, whereby they become verie
difficult to be numbred, but also for their greatnesse & strange
maner of lieng of some of them one vpon another, which séemeth to
be with so tickle hold, that few men go vnder them without feare
of their present ruine. How and when these stones were brought
thither, as yet I can not read; howbeit it is most likelie, that
they were raised there by the Britons, after the slaughter of their
nobilitie at the deadlie banket, which Hengist and his Saxons
prouided for them, where they were also buried, and Vortigerne
their king apprehended and led awaie as captiue. I haue heard that
the like are to be séene in Ireland; but how true it is as yet I
can not learne. The report goeth also, that these were broght from
thence, but by what ship on the sea, and cariage by land, I thinke
few men can safelie imagine.

The third is an ample and large hole vnder the ground, which some
call Carcer Acoli, but in English Chedderhole, whereinto manie men
haue entred & walked verie farre. Howbeit, as the passage is large
and nothing noisome: so diuerse that haue aduentured to go into
the same, could neuer as yet find the end of that waie, neither
sée anie other thing than pretie riuerets and streames, which they
often crossed as they went from place to place. This Chedderhole
or Chedder rocke is in Summersetshire, and thence the said waters
run till they méet with the second Ax that riseth in Owkie hole.

The fourth is no lesse notable than anie of the other. For westward
vpon certeine hilles a man shall sée the clouds gather togither in
faire weather vnto a certeine thicknesse, and by and by to spread
themselues abroad and water their fields about them, as it were
vpon the sudden. The causes of which dispersion, as they are vtterlie
vnknowne: so manie men coniecture great store of water to be in
those hilles, & verie néere at hand, if it were néedfull to be
sought for.

Besides these foure maruelles, there is a little rockie Ile in Aber
Barrie (a riueret that falleth into the Sauerne sea) called Barrie,
which hath a rift or clift next the first shore; wherevnto if a
man doo laie his eare, he shall heare such noises as are commonlie
made in smiths forges, to wit, clinking of iron barres, beating
with hammers, blowing of bellowses, and such like: whereof the
superstitious sort doo gather manie toies, as the gentiles did in
old time of their lame god Vulcans pot. The riuer that runneth by
Chester changeth hir chanell euerie moneth: the cause whereof as
yet I can not learne; neither dooth it swell by force of anie
land-floud, but by some vehement wind it oft ouer-runneth hir banks.
In Snowdonie are two lakes, whereof one beareth a moouable Iland,
which is carried to and fro as the wind bloweth. The other hath
three kinds of fishes in it, as eeles, trowts, and perches: but
herein resteth the woonder, that all those haue but one eie a péece
onelie, and the same situate in the right side of their heads. And
this I find to be confirmed also by authors: There is a well in
the forrest of Gnaresborow, whereof the said forrest dooth take
the name; which water, beside that it is cold as Stix, in a certeine
period of time knowne, conuerteth wood, flesh, leaues of trées,
and mosse into hard stone, without alteration or changing of shape.
The like also is séene there in frogs, wormes, and such like liuing
creatures as fall into the same, and find no readie issue. Of this
spring also Leland writeth thus; A little aboue March (but at the
further banke of Nide riuer as I came) I saw a well of wonderfull
nature called Dropping well, because the water thereof distilleth
out of great rockes hard by into it continuallie, which is so cold,
and thereto of such nature, that what thing soeuer falleth out of
those rocks into this pit, or groweth néere thereto, or be cast
into it by mans hand, it turneth into stone. It may be (saith he)
that some sand or other fine ground issueth out with this water
from these hard rocks, which cleauing vnto those things, giueth
them in time the forme of stones &c. Neere vnto the place where
Winburne monasterie sometimes stood, also not farre from Bath there
is a faire wood, whereof if you take anie péece, and pitch it into
the ground thereabouts, or throw it into the water, within twelue
moneths it will turne into hard stone. In part of the hilles east
southeast of Alderleie, a mile from Kingswood, are stones dailie
found, perfectlie fashioned like cockles and mightie oisters, which
some dreame haue lien there euer since the floud. In the clifts
betwéene the Blacke head and Trewardeth baie in Cornwall, is a
certeine caue, where things appeare like images guilded, on the
sides of the same, which I take to be nothing but the shining of
the bright ore of coppar and other mettals readie at hand to be
found there, if anie diligence were vsed. Howbeit, because it is
much maruelled at as a rare thing, I doo not thinke it to be vnméet
to be placed amongst our woonders. Maister Guise had of late, and
still hath (for aught that I know) a manor in Glocestershire, where
certeine okes doo grow, whose rootes are verie hard stone. And
beside this, the ground is so fertile there (as they saie) that if
a man hew a stake of anie wood, and pitch it into the earth, it
will grow and take rooting beyond all expectation. Siluecester
towne also is said to conteine fourescore acres of land within the
walles, whereof some is corne-ground (as Leland saith) and the
graine which is growing therein dooth come to verie good perfection
till it be readie to be cut downe: but euen then, or about that
time it vanisheth away & becommeth altogither vnprofitable. Is it
any woonder (thinke you) to tell of sundrie caues neere to Browham,
on the west side of the riuer Aimote, wherein are halles, chambers,
and all offices of houshold cut out of the hard rocke? If it be,
then may we increase the number of maruels verie much by a rehearsall
of other also. For we haue manie of the like, as one neere saint
Assaphs vpon the banke of Elwie, and about the head of Vendrath
Vehan in Wales, whereinto men haue often entred and walked, and
yet found nothing but large roomes, and sandie ground vnder their
féet, and other else-where. But sith these things are not strange,
I let them alone, and go forward with the rest.

In the parish of Landsarnam in Wales, and in the side of a stonie
hill, is a place wherein are foure and twentie seats hewen out of
the hard rockes; but who did cut them, and to what end, as yet it
is not learned. As for the huge stone that lieth at Pember in
Guitherie parish, and of the notable carcasse that is affirmed to
lie vnder the same, there is no cause to touch it here: yet were
it well doone to haue it remoued, though it were but onlie to sée
what it is, which the people haue in so great estimation & reuerence.
There is also a poole in Logh Taw, among the blacke mounteins in
Brecknockshire, where (as is said) is the head of Taw that commeth
to Swanseie, which hath such a propertie, that it will bréed no
fish at all, & if anie be cast into it, they die without recouerie:
but this peraduenture may grow throgh the accidentall corruption
of the water, rather than the naturall force of the element it
selfe. There is also a lin in Wales, which in the one side beareth
trowts so red as samons, and in the other, which is the westerlie
side, verie white and delicate. I heare also of two welles not far
from Landien, which stand verie néere togither, and yet are of such
diuersitie of nature, that the one beareth sope, and is a maruellous
fine water; the other altogither of contrarie qualities. Which is
not a litle to be mused at, considering (I saie) that they participate
of one soile, and rise so nigh one to another. I haue notice giuen
me moreouer of a stone not farre from saint Dauids, which is verie
great, as a bed, or such like thing: and being raised vp, a man
may stirre it with his thumbe; but not with his shoulder or force
of his whole bodie.

There is a well not farre from stonie Stratford, which conuerteth
manie things into stone; and an other in Wales, which is said to
double or triple the force of anie edge toole that is quenched in
the same. In Tegenia, a parcell of Wales, there is a noble well (I
meane in the parish of Kilken) which is of maruellous nature, and
much like to another well at Seuill in Spaine: for although it be
six miles from the sea, it ebbeth and floweth twise in one daie;
alwaies ebbing when the sea dooth vse to flow, and in flowing
likewise when the sea dooth vse to ebbe; wherof some doo fable,
that this well is ladie and mistresse of the ocean. Not farre from
thence also is a medicinable spring called Schinant of old time,
but now Wenefrides well, in the edges whereof dooth breed a verie
odoriferous and delectable mosse, wherewith the head of the smeller
is maruellouslie refreshed. Other welles and water-courses we haue
likewise, which at some times burst out into huge streames, though
at other seasons they run but verie softlie, whereby the people
gather some alteration of estate to be at hand. And such a one
there is at Henleie, & an other at Croidon; & such a one also in
the golden dale beside Anderne in Picardie, whereof the common sort
imagine manie things. Some of the greater sort also giue ouer to
run at all in such times, wherof they conceiue the like opinion.
And of the same nature, though of no great quantitie, is a pit or
well at Langleie parke in Kent, whereof (by good hap) it was my
lucke to read a notable historie in an ancient chronicle that I
saw of late. What the foolish people dreame of the hell Kettles,
it is not worthie the rehearsall; yet to the end the lewd opinion
conceiued of them may grow into contempt, I will saie thus much
also of those pits. There are certeine pits, or rather three little
pooles, a mile from Darlington, and a quarter of a mile distant
from the These banks which the people call the Kettles of hell, or
the diuels Kettles, as if he should séeth soules of sinfull men
and women in them. They adde also, that the spirits haue oft beene
heard to crie and yell about them, with other like talke sauoring
altogether of pagan infidelitie. The truth is, and of this opinion
also was Cutbert Tunstall late bishop of Durham, a man (notwithstanding
the basenesse of his birth, being begotten by one Tunstall vpon a
daughter of the house of the Commers, as Leland saith) of great
learning and iudgement, that the cole-mines in those places are
kindled, or if there be no coles, there may a mine of some other
vnctuous matter be set on fire, which being here and there consumed,
the earth falleth in, and so dooth leaue a pit. Indéed the water
is now and then warme (as they saie) and beside that it is not
cléere: the people suppose them to be an hundred fadam déepe. The
biggest of them also hath an issue into the These, as experience
hath confirmed. For doctor Bellowes aliàs Belzis made report, how
a ducke marked after the fashion of the duckes of the bishoprike
of Durham, was put into the same betwixt Darlington and These banke,
and afterward séene at a bridge not farre from master Clereuax
house. If it were woorth the noting, I would also make relation of
manie wooden crosses found verie often about Halidon, whereof the
old inhabitants conceiued an opinion that they were fallen from
heauen; whereas in truth, they were made and borne by king Oswald;
and his men in the battell wherein they preuailed sometimes against
the British infidels, vpon a superstitious imagination, that those
crosses should be their defense and shield against their aduersaries.
Beda calleth the place where the said field was fought, Heauen
field; it lieth not far from the Pictish wall, and the famous
monasterie of Hagulstad. But more of this elsewhere. Neither will
I speak of the little hillets séene in manie places of our Ile,
whereof though the vnskilfull people babble manie things: yet are
they nothing else but Tumuli or graues of former times, as appeareth
by such tooms & carcasses as be daily found in the same, when they
be digged downe. The like fond imagination haue they of a kind of
lunarie, which is to be found in manie places, although not so well
knowen by the forme vnto them, as by the effect thereof, because
it now and then openeth the lockes hanging on the horses féet as
hit vpon it where it groweth in their féeding. Roger Bacon our
countrieman noteth it to grow plentiouslie in Tuthill fields about
London. I haue heard of it to be within compasse of the parish
where I dwell, and doo take it for none other than the Sfera Cauallo,
whereof Mathiolus and the herbarists doo write, albeit that it hath
not béene my lucke at anie time to behold it. Plinie calleth it
Aethiopis: and Aelianus, Oppianus, Kyramis, and Trebius haue written
manie superstitious things thereof, but especiallie our Chymists,
who make it of farre more vertue than our smiths doo their ferne
séed, whereof they babble manie woonders, and prate of such effects
as may well be performed indéed when the ferne beareth séed, which
is commonly Ad calendas Graecas, for before it will not be found.
But to procéed. There is a well in Darbieshire called Tideswell
(so named of the word tide, or to ebbe and flow) whose water often
séemeth to rise and fall, as the sea which is fortie miles from it
dooth vsuallie accustome to ebbe and flow. And hereof an opinion
is growen that it keepeth an ordinarie course as the sea dooth.
Howbeit, sith diuerse are knowne to haue watched the same, it may
be that at sometimes it riseth, but not continuallie; and that it
so dooth I am fullie persuaded to beléeue. But euen inough of the
woonders of our countrie, least I doo seeme by talking longer of
them, woonderouslie to ouershoot my selfe, and forget how much
dooth rest behind of the description of my countrie. As for those
that are to be touched of Scotland, the description of that part
shall in some part remember them.